Content .. 4 5 6 7 ..

Peugeot 405 Haynes (petrol). Manual - part 6

Engine (general)

Designation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

TU3

Engine code:

UK models (10/92 to 08/93) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

KDX (TU3MC/L/Z)

Non-UK models (07/87 to 06/88) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

K1A (TU3)

Non-UK models (07/88-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

K1G (TU3A)

Non-UK models (11/87-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

K3A (TU3TR)

Non-UK models (1993-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

K2D (TU3F2/K)

Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1360 cc

Bore

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75.00 mm

Stroke

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

77.00 mm

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Clockwise (viewed from right-hand side of vehicle)

No 1 cylinder location . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

At transmission end of block

Compression ratio:

Except K3A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9.3 : 1

K3A

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8.3 : 1

*The engine code is situated on the front left-hand end of the cylinder block. It is either stamped on a plate which is riveted to the block
(aluminium block engines) or stamped directly on the cylinder block (cast-iron block engines). The code given in brackets is the factory identifi-
cation number, and is not often referred to by this manual.

Camshaft

Drive

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Toothed belt

Number of bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Camshaft bearing journal diameter (outside diameter):

No 1

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

36.950 to 36.925 mm

No 2

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

40.650 to 40.625 mm

No 3

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41.250 to 41.225 mm

No 4

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41.850 to 41.825 mm

No 5

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

42.450 to 42.425 mm

Cylinder head bearing journal diameter (inside diameter):

No 1

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

37.000 to 37.039 mm

No 2

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

40.700 to 47.739 mm

No 3

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41.300 to 41.339 mm

No 4

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41.900 to 41.939 mm

No 5

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

42.500 to 42.539 mm

Valve clearances (engine cold)

Inlet

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.20 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.40 mm

Chapter 2 Part A:
TU petrol engine in-car repair procedures

Camshaft and rocker arms - removal, inspection and refitting  . . . . .10
Camshaft oil seal - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Compression test  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Cylinder head - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Engine assembly/valve timing holes -

general information and usage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly checks”

Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . .16
Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
General information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Sump - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Timing belt - general information, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Timing belt covers - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Timing belt tensioner and sprockets -

removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

2A•1

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional

D e g r e e s o f d i f f i c u l t y

S p e c i f i c a t i o n s

Contents

Lubrication system

Oil pump type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Gear-type, chain-driven off the crankshaft

Minimum oil pressure at 90°C:

Except K2D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4 bars at 4000 rpm

K2D

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3 bars at 2000 rpm

Oil pressure warning switch operating pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.8 bars

Torque wrench settings

lbf ft

Cylinder head cover nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Timing belt cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Crankshaft pulley retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Timing belt tensioner pulley nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Camshaft sprocket retaining bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

110

Camshaft thrust fork retaining bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cylinder head bolts (aluminium block engine):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Angle-tighten a further 240°

Cylinder head bolts (cast-iron block engine):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Angle-tighten a further 120°

Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Angle-tighten a further 120°

Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Sump retaining nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Oil pump retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Flywheel retaining nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Piston oil jet spray tube bolts - 1587 cc models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Big-end bearing cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Main bearing ladder casting (aluminium block engine):

11 mm bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Angle-tighten a further 45°

6 mm bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Main bearing cap bolts (cast-iron block engine):

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Angle-tighten a further 45°

2A•2 TU engine in-car repair procedures

General information

How to use this Chapter

1 This Part of Chapter 2 describes those
repair procedures that can reasonably be
carried out on the TU series engine while it
remains in the car. If the engine has been
removed from the car and is being dismantled
as described in Part C, any preliminary
dismantling procedures can be ignored. Refer
to Part B for the XU series petrol engine.
2 Note that, while it may be possible
physically to overhaul items such as the
piston/connecting rod assemblies while the
engine is in the car, such tasks are not
normally carried out as separate operations.
Usually, several additional procedures (not to
mention the cleaning of components and
oilways) have to be carried out. For this
reason, all such tasks are classed as major
overhaul procedures, and are described in
Part C of this Chapter.
3 Part C describes the removal of the
engine/transmission from the vehicle, and the
full overhaul procedures that can then be
carried out.

TU series engine description

4 The TU series engine is a well-proven
engine which has been fitted to many
previous Peugeot and Citroën vehicles. The
engine is of the in-line four-cylinder, overhead
camshaft (OHC) type, mounted transversely at
the front of the car. The clutch and
transmission are attached to its left-hand end.
The 405 range is fitted with the 1360 cc
version of the engine; carburettor and fuel-
injected versions are available (carburettor
versions not available in the UK).
5 The crankshaft runs in five main bearings.
Thrustwashers are fitted to No 2 main bearing
(upper half) to control crankshaft endfloat.
6 The connecting rods rotate on horizontally-
split bearing shells at their big-ends. The
pistons are attached to the connecting rods
by gudgeon pins, which are an interference fit
in the connecting rod small-end eyes. The
aluminium-alloy pistons are fitted with three
piston rings - two compression rings and an
oil control ring.
7 Where the cylinder block is made of
aluminium, replaceable wet liners are fitted.
Sealing O-rings are fitted at the base of each
liner, to prevent the escape of coolant into the
sump.
8 Where the cylinder block is made from cast

iron, the cylinder bores are an integral part of
the cylinder block. On this type of engine the
cylinder bores are sometimes referred to as
having dry liners.
9 The inlet and exhaust valves are each
closed by coil springs, and operate in guides
pressed into the cylinder head; the valve seat
inserts are also pressed into the cylinder
head, and can be renewed separately if worn.
10 The camshaft is driven by a toothed
timing belt, and operates the eight valves via
rocker arms. Valve clearances are adjusted by
a screw-and-locknut arrangement. The
camshaft rotates directly in the cylinder head.
The timing belt also drives the coolant pump.
11 Lubrication is by means of an oil pump,
which is driven (via a chain and sprocket) off
the right-hand end of the crankshaft. It draws
oil through a strainer located in the sump, and
then forces it through an externally-mounted
filter into galleries in the cylinder
block/crankcase. From there, the oil is
distributed to the crankshaft (main bearings)
and camshaft. The big-end bearings are
supplied with oil via internal drillings in the
crankshaft, while the camshaft bearings also
receive a pressurised supply. The camshaft
lobes and valves are lubricated by splash, as
are all other engine components.

12 Throughout this manual, it is often
necessary to identify the engines not only by
their capacity, but also by their engine code
which can be found on the left-hand end of
the front face of the cylinder block. On models
with an aluminium cylinder block the code is
stamped on a plate which is riveted to the
block, and on models with a cast iron cylinder
block the number is stamped on a machined
surface on the cylinder block, at the flywheel
end. The first part of the engine number gives
the engine code - eg “KDX” (see illustration).

Repair operations possible with
the engine in the car

13 The following work can be carried out with
the engine in the car:

a) Compression pressure - testing.
b) Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting.
c) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting.
d) Timing belt - removal, refitting and

adjustment.

e) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets -

removal and refitting.

f) Camshaft oil seal(s) - renewal.
g) Camshaft and rocker arms - removal,

inspection and refitting.*

h) Cylinder head - removal and refitting.
i) Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising.
j) Sump - removal and refitting.
k) Oil pump - removal, overhaul and refitting.
l) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.
m) Engine/transmission mountings -

inspection and renewal.

n) Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting.

*The cylinder head must be removed for the
successful completion of this work. Refer to
Section 10 for details.

Compression test

1 When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel systems, a compression
test can provide diagnostic clues as to the
engine’s condition. If the test is performed
regularly, it can give warning of trouble before
any other symptoms become apparent.
2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to

normal operating temperature, the battery
must be fully charged, and all the spark plugs
must be removed (Chapter 1). The aid of an
assistant will also be required.
3 On carburettor models, disable the ignition
system by disconnecting the ignition HT coil
lead from the distributor cap and earthing it
on the cylinder block. Use a jumper lead or
similar wire to make a good connection.
4 On fuel-injected models, disable the
ignition system by disconnecting the LT wiring
connector from the ignition HT coil(s),
referring to Chapter 5 for further information.
5 Fit a compression tester to the No 1
cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester
which screws into the plug thread is to be
preferred.
6 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open, and crank the engine on the starter
motor. After one or two revolutions, the
compression pressure should build up to a
maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record
the highest reading obtained.
7 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure in each.
8 All cylinders should produce very similar
pressures; a difference of more than 2 bars
between any two cylinders indicates a fault.
Note that the compression should build up
quickly in a healthy engine; low compression
on the first stroke, followed by gradually-
increasing pressure on successive strokes,
indicates worn piston rings. A low
compression reading on the first stroke, which
does not build up during successive strokes,
indicates leaking valves or a blown head
gasket (a cracked head could also be the
cause). Deposits on the undersides of the
valve heads can also cause low compression.
9 Although Peugeot do not specify exact
compression pressures, as a guide, any
cylinder pressure of below 10 bars can be
considered as less than healthy. Refer to a
Peugeot dealer or other specialist if in doubt
as to whether a particular pressure reading is
acceptable.
10 If the pressure in any cylinder is low, carry
out the following test to isolate the cause.
Introduce a teaspoonful of clean oil into that
cylinder through its spark plug hole, and
repeat the test.
11 If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear is responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
12 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders
is almost certainly due to the head gasket
having blown between them; the presence of
coolant in the engine oil will confirm this.
13 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower
than the others and the engine has a slightly
rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be the
cause.
14 If the compression reading is unusually
high, the combustion chambers are probably
coated with carbon deposits. If this is the

case, the cylinder head should be removed
and decarbonised.
15 On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the ignition system.

Engine assembly/valve
timing holes - general
information and usage

Note: Do not attempt to rotate the engine
whilst the crankshaft/camshaft are locked in
position. If the engine is to be left in this state
for a long period of time, it is a good idea to
place warning notices inside the vehicle, and
in the engine compartment. This will reduce
the possibility of the engine being accidentally
cranked on the starter motor, which is likely to
cause damage with the locking pins in place.
1 On all models, timing holes are drilled in the
camshaft sprocket and in the rear of the
flywheel. The holes are used to ensure that
the crankshaft and camshaft are correctly
positioned when assembling the engine (to
prevent the possibility of the valves contacting
the pistons when refitting the cylinder head),
or refitting the timing belt. When the timing
holes are aligned with the special holes in the
cylinder head and the front of the cylinder
block, suitable diameter pins can be inserted
to lock both the camshaft and crankshaft in
position, preventing them from rotating.
Proceed as follows.
2 Remove the timing belt upper cover as
described in Section 5.
3 The crankshaft must now be turned until
the timing hole in the camshaft sprocket is
aligned with the corresponding hole in the
cylinder head. The holes are aligned when the
camshaft sprocket hole is in the 2 o’clock
position, when viewed from the right-hand
end of the engine. The crankshaft can be
turned by using a spanner on the crankshaft
sprocket bolt, noting that it should always be
rotated in a clockwise direction (viewed from
the right-hand end of the engine).
4 With the camshaft sprocket hole correctly
positioned, insert a 6 mm diameter bolt or drill
through the hole in the front, left-hand flange
of the cylinder block, and locate it in the
timing hole in the rear of the flywheel (see
illustration). Note that it may be necessary to

TU engine in-car repair procedures 2A•3

3.4 Insert a 6 mm bolt (arrowed) through

hole in cylinder block flange and into

timing hole in the flywheel . . .

1.12 Engine code is stamped on a plate

(arrowed) attached to the front of the

cylinder block - viewed from above

rotate the crankshaft slightly, to get the holes
to align.
5 With the flywheel correctly positioned,
insert a 10 mm diameter bolt or a drill through
the timing hole in the camshaft sprocket, and
locate it in the hole in the cylinder head (see
illustration).
6 The crankshaft and camshaft are now
locked in position, preventing unnecessary
rotation.

Cylinder head cover -
removal and refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Where necessary, undo the bolts securing

the HT lead retaining clips to the rear of the
cylinder head cover, and position the clips
clear of the cover.
3 Slacken the retaining clip, and disconnect
the breather hose from the left-hand end of
the cylinder head cover (see illustration).
Where the original crimped-type Peugeot
hose clip is still fitted, cut it off and discard it.
Use a standard worm-drive clip on refitting.
4 Undo the two retaining nuts, and remove
the washer from each of the cylinder head
cover studs (see illustration).
5 Lift off the cylinder head cover, and remove
it along with its rubber seal (see illustration).
Examine the seal for signs of damage and
deterioration, and if necessary, renew it.
6 Lift off the spacer from each stud, and
remove the oil baffle plate (see illustrations).

Refitting

7 Carefully clean the cylinder head and cover
mating surfaces, and remove all traces of oil.
8 Fit the rubber seal over the edge of the
cylinder head cover, ensuring that it is
correctly located along its entire length (see
illustration).
9 Refit the oil baffle plate to the engine, and
locate the spacers in their recesses in the
baffle plate.
10 Carefully refit the cylinder head cover to
the engine, taking great care not to displace
the rubber seal.
11 Check that the seal is correctly located,
then refit the washers and cover retaining
nuts, and tighten them to the specified torque.
12 Where necessary, refit the HT lead clips to

the rear of the head cover, and securely
tighten their retaining bolts.
13 Reconnect the breather hose to the
cylinder head cover, securely tightening its
retaining clip, and reconnect the battery
negative lead.

Timing belt covers - removal
and refitting

Removal

Upper cover

1 Slacken and remove the two retaining bolts
(one at the front and one at the rear), and
remove the upper timing cover from the
cylinder head (see illustrations).

Centre cover

2 Remove the upper cover as described in
paragraph 1, then free the wiring from its clips
on the centre cover (see illustration).
3 Slacken and remove the three retaining
bolts (one at the rear of the cover, beneath the
engine mounting plate, and two directly above
the crankshaft pulley), and manoeuvre the
centre cover out from the engine
compartment

(see illustration).

Lower cover

4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1.
5 Remove the upper and centre covers as
described in paragraphs 1 to 3.

4.8 On refitting, ensure the rubber seal is

located on the cylinder head cover

2A•4 TU engine in-car repair procedures

3.5 . . . then insert a 10 mm bolt through

the cam sprocket timing hole, and locate it

in the cylinder head

4.4 . . . then slacken and remove the cover

retaining nuts and washers (arrowed) . . .

4.6b . . . and remove the oil baffle plate

4.6a Lift off the spacers

(second one arrowed) . . .

4.5 . . . and lift off the cylinder head cover

4.3 Disconnect the breather hose from the

cylinder head cover . . .

6 Undo the three crankshaft pulley retaining
bolts and remove the pulley, noting which way
round it is fitted (see illustrations).
7 Slacken and remove the single retaining
bolt, and slide the lower cover off the end of
the crankshaft (see illustration).

Refitting

Upper cover

8 Refit the cover, ensuring it is correctly
located with the centre cover, and tighten its
retaining bolts.

Centre cover

9 Manoeuvre the centre cover back into
position, ensuring it is correctly located with
the lower cover, and tighten its retaining bolts.
10 Clip the wiring loom into its retaining clips
on the front of the centre cover, then refit the
upper cover as described in paragraph 8.

Lower cover

11 Locate the lower cover over the timing
belt sprocket, and tighten its retaining bolt.
12 Fit the pulley to the end of the crankshaft,
ensuring it is fitted the correct way round, and
tighten its retaining bolts to the specified
torque.
13 Refit the centre and upper covers as
described above, then refit and tension the
auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1.

Timing belt -
general information,
removal and refitting

Note: Peugeot specify the use of a special
electronic tool (SEEM C.TRONIC type 105 or
105.5 belt tensioning measuring tool) to
correctly set the timing belt tension. If access
to this equipment cannot be obtained, an
approximate setting can be achieved using
the method described below. If the method
described is used, the tension must be
checked using the special electronic tool at
the earliest possible opportunity. Do not drive
the vehicle over large distances, or use high
engine speeds, until the belt tension is known
to be correct. Refer to a Peugeot dealer for
advice.

General information

1 The timing belt drives the camshaft and
coolant pump from a toothed sprocket on the
front of the crankshaft. If the belt breaks or
slips in service, the pistons are likely to hit the

valve heads, resulting in extensive (and
expensive) damage.
2 The timing belt should be renewed at the
specified intervals (see Chapter 1), or earlier if
it is contaminated with oil, or if it is at all noisy
in operation (a “scraping” noise due to uneven
wear).
3 If the timing belt is being removed, it is a
wise precaution to check the condition of the
coolant pump at the same time (check for
signs of coolant leakage). This may avoid the
need to remove the timing belt again at a later
stage, should the coolant pump fail.

Removal

4 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
5 Align the engine assembly/valve timing
holes as described in Section 3, and lock both
the camshaft sprocket and the flywheel in
position. Do not attempt to rotate the engine
whilst the locking tools are in position.
6 Remove the timing belt centre and lower
covers as described in Section 5.
7 Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley
retaining nut. Pivot the pulley in a clockwise
direction, using a square-section key fitted to
the hole in the pulley hub, then retighten the
retaining nut.
8 If the timing belt is to be re-used, use white
paint or similar to mark the direction of
rotation on the belt (if markings do not already
exist) (see illustration). Slip the belt off the
sprockets.
9 Check the timing belt carefully for any signs
of uneven wear, splitting, or oil contamination.
Pay particular attention to the roots of the
teeth. Renew the belt if there is the slightest

TU engine in-car repair procedures 2A•5

5.2 Free the wiring loom from its

retaining clip . . .

5.6b . . . and remove the crankshaft pulley

5.6a Undo the three retaining bolts

(arrowed) . . .

5.3 . . . then undo the three bolts (locations

arrowed) and remove the centre belt cover

5.1b . . . and remove the

upper timing belt cover

5.1a Undo the two retaining bolts

(arrowed) . . .

5.7 Undo the retaining bolt and remove

the lower timing belt cover

doubt about its condition. If the engine is
undergoing an overhaul, and has covered
more than 36 000 miles (60 000 km) with the
existing belt fitted, renew the belt as a matter
of course, regardless of its apparent
condition. The cost of a new belt is nothing
when compared to the cost of repairs, should
the belt break in service. If signs of oil
contamination are found, trace the source of
the oil leak, and rectify it. Wash down the
engine timing belt area and all related
components, to remove all traces of oil.

Refitting

10 Prior to refitting, thoroughly clean the
timing belt sprockets. Check that the
tensioner pulley rotates freely, without any
sign of roughness. If necessary, renew the
tensioner pulley as described in Section 7.
Make sure that the locking tools are still in
place, as described in Section 3.
11 Manoeuvre the timing belt into position,
ensuring the arrows on the belt are pointing in
the direction of rotation (clockwise, when
viewed from the right-hand end of the engine).
12 Do not twist the timing belt sharply while
refitting it. Fit the belt over the crankshaft and
camshaft sprockets. Make sure that the “front
run” of the belt is taut - ie, ensure that any
slack is on the tensioner pulley side of the
belt. Fit the belt over the coolant pump
sprocket and tensioner pulley. Ensure that the
belt teeth are seated centrally in the
sprockets.
13 Loosen the tensioner pulley retaining nut.
Pivot the pulley anti-clockwise to remove all
free play from the timing belt, then retighten
the nut. Tension the timing belt as described
under the relevant sub-heading.

Tensioning without the special
electronic measuring tool

Note: If this method is used, ensure that the
belt tension is checked by a Peugeot dealer at
the earliest possible opportunity.
14 Peugeot dealers use a special tool to
tension the timing belt. A similar tool may be
fabricated using a suitable square-section bar
attached to an arm made from a metal strip; a
hole should be drilled in the strip at a distance
of 80 mm from the centre of the square-
section bar. Fit the tool to the hole in the

tensioner pulley, keeping the tool arm as close
to the horizontal as possible, and hang a 1.5
kg (3.3 lb) weight (aluminium block engine) or
2.0 kg (4.4 lb) weight (cast-iron block engine)
from the hole in the tool (see illustration). In
the absence of an object of the specified
weight, a spring balance can be used to exert
the required force, ensuring that the spring
balance is held at 90° to the tool arm. Slacken
the pulley retaining nut, allowing the weight or
force exerted (as applicable) to push the
tensioner pulley against the belt, then
retighten the pulley nut.
15 If this special tool is not available, an
approximate setting may be achieved by
pivoting the tensioner pulley anti-clockwise
until it is just possible to twist the timing belt
through 90° by finger and thumb, midway
between the crankshaft and camshaft
sprockets. The deflection of the belt at the
mid-point between the sprockets should be
approximately 6.0 mm.
16 Remove the locking tools from the
camshaft sprocket and flywheel.
17 Using a suitable socket and extension bar
on the crankshaft sprocket bolt, rotate the
crankshaft through four complete rotations in
a clockwise direction (viewed from the right-
hand end of the engine). Do not at any time
rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise.
18 Slacken the tensioner pulley nut, re-
tension the belt as described in paragraph 14
or 15, then tighten the tensioner pulley nut to
the specified torque.
19 Rotate the crankshaft through a further
two turns clockwise, and check that both the
camshaft sprocket and flywheel timing holes
are still correctly aligned.
20 If all is well, refit the timing belt covers as
described in Section 5, and reconnect the
battery negative terminal.

Tensioning using the special
electronic measuring tool

21 Fit the special belt tensioning measuring
equipment to the “front run” of the timing belt,
approximately midway between the camshaft
and crankshaft sprockets. Position the
tensioner pulley so that the belt is tensioned
to a setting of 45 units, then retighten its
retaining nut.
22 Remove the locking tools from the
camshaft sprocket and flywheel, and remove
the measuring tool from the belt.
23 Using a suitable socket and extension bar
on the crankshaft sprocket bolt, rotate the
crankshaft through four complete rotations in
a clockwise direction (viewed from the right-
hand end of the engine). Do not at any time
rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise.
24 Slacken the tensioner pulley retaining nut,
and refit the measuring tool to the belt. If a
“new” belt is being fitted, tension it to a
setting of 40 units. If an “old” belt is being re-
used, tighten it to a setting of 36 units. Note:
Peugeot state that a belt becomes “old” after
1 hour’s use.

With the belt correctly

tensioned, tighten the pulley retaining nut to
the specified torque.
25 Remove the measuring tool from the belt,
then rotate the crankshaft through another
two complete rotations in a clockwise
direction, so that both the camshaft sprocket
and flywheel timing holes are realigned. Do
not at any time rotate the crankshaft anti-
clockwise. Fit the measuring tool to the belt,
and check the belt tension. A “new” belt
should give a reading of 51 ± 3 units; an “old”
belt should be 45 ± 3 units.
26 If the belt tension is incorrect, repeat the
procedures in paragraphs 24 and 25.
27 With the belt tension correctly set, refit the
timing belt covers as described in Section 5,
and reconnect the battery negative terminal.

Timing belt tensioner and
sprockets - removal,
inspection and refitting

Note: This Section describes the removal and
refitting of the components concerned as
individual operations. If more than one of them
is to be removed at the same time, start by
removing the timing belt as described in
Section 6; remove the actual component as
described below, ignoring the preliminary
dismantling steps.

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
2 Position the engine assembly/valve timing
holes as described in Section 3, and lock both
the camshaft sprocket and flywheel in
position. Do not attempt to rotate the engine
whilst the pins are in position.

Camshaft sprocket

3 Remove the centre timing belt cover as
described in Section 5.

2A•6 TU engine in-car repair procedures

6.8 Mark the direction of rotation on the

belt, if it is to be re-used

6.14 Using the Peugeot special tool to

tension the timing belt

4 Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley
retaining nut. Rotate the pulley in a clockwise
direction, using a suitable square-section key
fitted to the hole in the pulley hub, then
retighten the retaining nut.
5 Disengage the timing belt from the
sprocket, and move the belt clear, taking care
not to bend or twist it sharply. Remove the
locking pin from the camshaft sprocket.
6 Slacken the camshaft sprocket retaining
bolt and remove it, along with its washer. To
prevent the camshaft rotating as the bolt is
slackened, a sprocket-holding tool will be
required. In the absence of the special
Peugeot tool, an acceptable substitute can be
fabricated as follows. Use two lengths of steel
strip (one long, the other short), and three nuts
and bolts; one nut and bolt forms the pivot of
a forked tool, with the remaining two nuts and
bolts at the tips of the “forks” to engage with
the sprocket spokes as shown in the
accompanying “Tool Tip”. Do not attempt to
use the sprocket locking pin to prevent the
sprocket from rotating whilst the bolt is
slackened.
7 With the retaining bolt removed, slide the
sprocket off the end of the camshaft. If the
locating peg is a loose fit in the rear of the
sprocket, remove it for safe-keeping. Examine
the camshaft oil seal for signs of oil leakage
and, if necessary, renew it as described in
Section 8.

Crankshaft sprocket

8 Remove the centre and lower timing belt
covers as described in Section 5.
9 Remove the timing belt from the sprockets
as described in Section 6.
10 To prevent crankshaft rotation whilst the
sprocket retaining bolt is slackened, select
4th gear, and have an assistant apply the
brakes firmly. If the engine has been removed
from the vehicle, lock the flywheel ring gear,
using an arrangement similar to that shown
(see illustration). Do not be tempted to use
the flywheel locking pin to prevent the
crankshaft from rotating; temporarily remove
the locking pin from the rear of the flywheel
prior to slackening the pulley bolt, then refit it
once the bolt has been slackened. Do not
allow the crankshaft to turn more than a few
degrees while loosening the bolt otherwise
the pistons may touch the valves.
11 Unscrew the retaining bolt and washer,
then slide the sprocket off the end of the
crankshaft (see illustrations). Refit the
locating pin to the rear of the timing hole in the
rear of the flywheel.
12 If the Woodruff key is a loose fit in the
crankshaft, remove it and store it with the
sprocket for safe-keeping. If necessary, also
slide the flanged spacer off the end of the
crankshaft (see illustration). Examine the
crankshaft oil seal for signs of oil leakage and,
if necessary, renew it (refer to Section 14).

Tensioner pulley

13 Remove the centre timing belt cover as
described in Section 5.

14 Slacken and remove the timing belt
tensioner pulley retaining nut, and slide the
pulley off its mounting stud. Examine the
mounting stud for signs of damage and, if
necessary, renew it.

Inspection

15 Clean the sprockets thoroughly, and
renew any that show signs of wear, damage
or cracks.
16 Clean the tensioner assembly, but do not
use any strong solvent which may enter the
pulley bearing. Check that the pulley rotates
freely about its hub, with no sign of stiffness
or free play. Renew the tensioner pulley if
there is any doubt about its condition, or if
there are any obvious signs of wear or
damage.

Refitting

Camshaft sprocket

17 Refit the locating peg (where removed) to
the rear of the sprocket, then locate the
sprocket on the end of the camshaft. Ensure
that the locating peg is correctly engaged with
the cutout in the camshaft end.
18 Refit the sprocket retaining bolt and
washer. Tighten the bolt to the specified
torque, whilst retaining the sprocket with the
tool used on removal (see Tool Tip).
19 Realign the timing hole in the camshaft
sprocket (see Section 3) with the
corresponding hole in the cylinder head, and
refit the locking pin.
20 Refit the timing belt to the camshaft
sprocket. Ensure that the “front run” of the

belt is taut - ie, ensure that any slack is on the
tensioner pulley side of the belt. Do not twist
the belt sharply while refitting it, and ensure
that the belt teeth are seated centrally in the
sprockets.
21 Loosen the tensioner pulley retaining nut.
Rotate the pulley anti-clockwise to remove all
free play from the timing belt, then retighten
the nut.
22 Tension the belt as described in
paragraphs 14 to 19 of Section 6.
23 Refit the timing belt covers as described
in Section 5.

Crankshaft sprocket

24 Where removed, locate the Woodruff key
in the crankshaft end, then slide on the

TU engine in-car repair procedures 2A•7

7.11b . . . then slide off the sprocket

7.12 Remove the flanged spacer if

necessary

7.11a Remove the crankshaft sprocket

retaining bolt . . .

7.10 Use the fabricated tool shown to lock

flywheel ring gear and prevent the

crankshaft rotating

Using a home-made tool to hold the
camshaft sprocket stationary whilst the
retaining bolt is tightened (shown with
cylinder head removed)

flanged spacer, aligning its slot with the
Woodruff key.
25 Align the crankshaft sprocket slot with the
Woodruff key, and slide it onto the end of the
crankshaft.
26 Temporarily remove the locking pin from
the rear of the flywheel, then refit the
crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt and
washer. Tighten the bolt to the specified
torque, whilst preventing crankshaft rotation
using the method employed on removal. Refit
the locking pin to the rear of the flywheel.
27 Relocate the timing belt on the sprockets.
Ensure that the “front run” of the belt is taut -
ie, ensure that any slack is on the tensioner
pulley side of the belt. Do not twist the belt
sharply while refitting it, and ensure that the
belt teeth are seated centrally in the
sprockets.
28 Loosen the tensioner pulley retaining nut.
Rotate the pulley anti-clockwise to remove all
free play from the timing belt, then retighten
the nut.
29 Tension the belt as described in
paragraphs 14 to 19 of Section 6.
30 Refit the timing belt covers as described
in Section 5.

Tensioner pulley

31 Refit the tensioner pulley to its mounting
stud, and fit the retaining nut.
32 Ensure that the “front run” of the belt is
taut - ie, ensure that any slack is on the pulley
side of the belt. Check that the belt is centrally
located on all its sprockets. Rotate the pulley
anti-clockwise to remove all free play from the
timing belt, then tighten the pulley retaining
nut securely.
33 Tension the belt as described in
paragraphs 14 to 19 of Section 6.
34 Refit the timing belt covers as described
in Section 5.

Camshaft oil seal - renewal

Note: If the camshaft oil seal is to be renewed
with the timing belt still in place, check first
that the belt is free from oil contamination.
(Renew the belt as a matter of course if signs
of oil contamination are found; see Section 6.)
Cover the belt to protect it from oil
contamination while work is in progress.
Ensure that all traces of oil are removed from
the area before the belt is refitted.
1 Remove the camshaft sprocket as
described in Section 7.
2 Punch or drill two small holes opposite
each other in the oil seal. Screw a self-tapping
screw into each, and pull on the screws with
pliers to extract the seal.
3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean
engine oil, and drive it into position until it

seats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitable
tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears
only on the hard outer edge of the seal. Take
care not to damage the seal lips during fitting.
Note that the seal lips should face inwards.
5 Refit the camshaft sprocket as described in
Section 7.

Valve clearances - checking
and adjustment

Note: The valve clearances must be checked
and adjusted only when the engine is cold.
1 The importance of having the valve
clearances correctly adjusted cannot be
overstressed, as they vitally affect the
performance of the engine. If the clearances
are too big, the engine will be noisy (charac-
teristic rattling or tapping noises) and engine
efficiency will be reduced, as the valves open
too late and close too early. A more serious
problem arises if the clearances are too small,
however. If this is the case, the valves may not
close fully when the engine is hot, resulting in
serious damage to the engine (eg. burnt valve
seats and/or cylinder head warping/cracking).
The clearances are checked and adjusted as
follows.
2 Remove the cylinder head cover and oil
baffle plate as described in Section 4.
3 The engine can now be turned using a
suitable socket and extension bar fitted to the
crankshaft sprocket/pulley bolt.

4 It is important that the clearance of each
valve is checked and adjusted only when the
valve is fully closed, with the rocker arm
resting on the heel of the cam (directly
opposite the peak). This can be ensured by
carrying out the adjustments in the following
sequence, noting that No 1 cylinder is at the
transmission end of the engine. The correct
valve clearances are given in the Specifica-
tions at the start of this Chapter. The valve
locations can be determined from the position
of the manifolds.

Valve fully

Adjust valves

open

No 1 exhaust

No 3 inlet and No 4 exhaust

No 3 exhaust

No 4 inlet and No 2 exhaust

No 4 exhaust

No 2 inlet and No 1 exhaust

No 2 exhaust

No 1 inlet and No 3 exhaust

5 With the relevant valve fully open, check the
clearances of the two valves specified.
Clearances are checked by inserting a feeler
blade of the correct thickness between the
valve stem and the rocker arm adjusting
screw. The feeler blade should be a light,
sliding fit. If adjustment is necessary, slacken
the adjusting screw locknut, and turn the

screw as necessary. Once the correct
clearance is obtained, hold the adjusting
screw and securely tighten the locknut.
Recheck the valve clearance, and adjust
again if necessary.
6 Rotate the crankshaft until the next valve in
the sequence is fully open, and check the
clearances of the next two specified valves.
7 Repeat the procedure until all eight valve
clearances have been checked (and if
necessary, adjusted), then refit the oil baffle
plate and cylinder head cover as described in
Section 4.

10 Camshaft and rocker arms -

removal, inspection and
refitting

General information

1 The rocker arm assembly is secured to the
top of the cylinder head by the cylinder head
bolts. Although in theory, it is possible to undo
the head bolts and remove the rocker arm
assembly without removing the head, in
practice, this is not recommended. Once the
bolts have been removed, the head gasket will
be disturbed, and the gasket will almost
certainly leak or blow after refitting. For this
reason, removal of the rocker arm assembly
cannot be done without removing the cylinder
head and renewing the head gasket.
2 The camshaft is slid out of the right-hand
end of the cylinder head, and it therefore
cannot be removed without first removing the
cylinder head, due to a lack of clearance.

Removal

Rocker arm assembly

3 Remove the cylinder head as described in
Section 11.
4 To dismantle the rocker arm assembly,
carefully prise off the circlip from the right-
hand end of the rocker shaft; retain the rocker
pedestal, to prevent it being sprung off the
end of the shaft. Slide the various
components off the end of the shaft, keeping
all components in their correct fitted order
(see illustration). Make a note of each
component’s correct fitted position and
orientation as it is removed, to ensure it is
fitted correctly on reassembly.

2A•8 TU engine in-car repair procedures

10.4 Remove the circlip, and slide the

components off the end of the rocker arm

Turning the engine will be
easier if the spark plugs are
removed first - see Chapter 1

Content .. 4 5 6 7 ..