Peugeot 405 Haynes (petrol). Manual - part 4

 

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Peugeot 405 Haynes (petrol). Manual - part 4

 

 

Maintenance procedures

1•8

6000 Mile / 6 Month Service

1

Introduction

General information

This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peak performance.
The Chapter contains a master
maintenance schedule, followed by Sections
dealing specifically with each task in the
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component renewal and other helpful items
are included. Refer to the accompanying
illustrations of the engine compartment and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations
of the various components.
Servicing your vehicle in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable service life. This is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some
items but not others at the specified service
intervals, will not produce the same results.
As you service your vehicle, you will
discover that many of the procedures can -
and should - be grouped together, because of
the particular procedure being performed, or
because of the close proximity of two
otherwise-unrelated components to one
another. For example, if the vehicle is raised
for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected
at the same time as the suspension and
steering components.
The first step in this maintenance

programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the
Sections relevant to the work to be carried
out, then make a list and gather together all
the parts and tools required. If a problem is
encountered, seek advice from a parts
specialist, or a dealer service department.

2

Intensive maintenance

If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the need for additional work will be minimised.
It is possible that there will be times when
the engine is running poorly due to the lack of
regular maintenance. This is even more likely
if a used vehicle, which has not received
regular and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance intervals.
If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test will provide valuable information
regarding the overall performance of the main
internal components. Such a test can be used
as a basis to decide on the extent of the work
to be carried out. If, for example, a
compression test indicates serious internal
engine wear, conventional maintenance as
described in this Chapter will not greatly
improve the performance of the engine, and

may prove a waste of time and money, unless
extensive overhaul work is carried out first.
The following series of operations are those
most often required to improve the
performance of a generally poor-running
engine:

Primary operations

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (see

“Weekly checks”).

b) Check all the engine-related fluids (see

“Weekly checks”).

c) Check the condition and tension of the

auxiliary drivebelt (Section 5).

d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 11).
e) Inspect the distributor cap and HT leads -

as applicable (Section 22).

f) Check the condition of the air cleaner

filter element, and renew if necessary
(Section 21).

g) Renew the fuel filter (Section 8).
h) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks (Section 6).

i) Check the idle speed and mixture settings

- as applicable (Section 10).

If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following secondary
operations:

Secondary operations

a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A).
b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5B).
c) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4).
d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm -

as applicable (Chapter 5B).

e) Renew the ignition HT leads - as

applicable (Section 22).

6000 Mile / 6 Month Service

3

Engine oil and filter renewal

1

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 
9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months.
Note: A suitable square-section wrench may
be required to undo the sump drain plug on
some models. These wrenches cab be
obtained from most motor factors or your
Peugeot dealer.
Frequent oil and filter changes are the most
important preventative maintenance
procedures which can be undertaken by the
DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes
diluted and contaminated, which leads to
premature engine wear.
Before starting this procedure, gather
together all the necessary tools and materials.

Also make sure that you have plenty of clean
rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any
spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm,
as it will drain better, and more built-up
sludge will be removed with it. Take care,
however, not to touch the exhaust or any
other hot parts of the engine when working
under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of
scalding, and to protect yourself from
possible skin irritants and other harmful
contaminants in used engine oils, it is
advisable to wear gloves when carrying out
this work. Access to the underside of the
vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be
raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked
up and supported on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Whichever
method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle
remains level, or if it is at an angle, so that the
drain plug is at the lowest point. Where
necessary remove the splash guard from
under the engine.

Slacken the drain plug about half a turn; on
some models, a square-section wrench may
be needed to slacken the plug (see
illustration)
. Position the draining container
under the drain plug, then remove the plug
completely. If possible, try to keep the plug

3.3  Slackening the sump drain plug with a

square-section wrench

pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by
hand the last couple of turns (see Haynes
Hint) 
.
Recover the sealing ring from the drain
plug.
Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
After all the oil has drained, wipe off the
drain plug with a clean rag. Check the sealing
washer for condition, and renew it if
necessary. Clean the area around the drain
plug opening, then refit and tighten the plug.
If the filter is also to be renewed, move the
container into position under the oil filter
which is located on the front side of the
cylinder block, below the inlet manifold.
Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary,
slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by
hand the rest of the way (see illustration).
Empty the oil from the old filter into the
container, and discard the filter.
Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and
sludge from the filter sealing area on the
engine. Check the old filter to make sure that
the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the
engine. If it has, carefully remove it.
10 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to
the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it
into position on the engine. Tighten the filter
firmly by hand only - do not use any tools.
Wipe clean the filter and sump drain plug.

11 Remove the old oil and all tools from
under the car, then lower the car to the
ground (if applicable).
12 Remove the dipstick then unscrew the oil
filler cap from the cylinder head cover. Fill the
engine, using the correct grade and type of oil
(see  “Weekly checks”). An oil can spout or
funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in
half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait
a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump.
Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time
until the level is up to the lower mark on the
dipstick. Finally, bring the level up to the
upper mark on the dipstick. Insert the
dipstick, and refit the filler cap.
13 Start the engine and run it for a few
minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter
seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there
may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil
pressure warning light goes out when the
engine is first started, as the oil circulates
through the engine oil galleries and the new oil
filter, before the pressure builds up.
14 Switch off the engine, and wait a few
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
more. With the new oil circulated and the filter
completely full, recheck the level on the
dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
15 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
reference to “General Repair Procedures” in
the Reference section of this manual.

4

Automatic transmission fluid
level check

1

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 
9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months.
Take the vehicle on a short journey, to
warm the transmission up to normal operating
temperature, then park the vehicle on level
ground. The fluid level is checked using the
dipstick located at the front of the engine
compartment, directly in front of the
engine/transmission. The dipstick top is
brightly-coloured (usually orange) for easy
identification.
With the engine idling and the selector lever
in the “P” (Park) position, withdraw the
dipstick from the tube, and wipe all the fluid
from its end with a clean rag or paper towel.
Insert the clean dipstick back into the tube as
far as it will go, then withdraw it once more.
Note the fluid level on the end of the dipstick;
it should be between the upper and lower
marks (see illustrations).

If topping-up is necessary, add the required
quantity of the specified fluid to the
transmission via the dipstick tube. Use a
funnel with a fine mesh gauze, to avoid
spillage, and to ensure that no foreign matter
enters the transmission. Note: Never overfill
the transmission so that the fluid level is above
the upper mark.
After topping-up, take the vehicle on a
short run to distribute the fresh fluid, then
recheck the level again, topping-up if
necessary.
Always maintain the level between the two
dipstick marks. If the level is allowed to fall
below the lower mark, fluid starvation may
result, which could lead to severe
transmission damage.
Frequent need for topping-up indicates that
there is a leak, which should be found and
corrected before it becomes serious.

5

Auxiliary drivebelt check 
and renewal

3

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 
18 000 miles (30 000 km).
Note: Peugeot specify the use of a special
electronic tool (SEEM C.TRONIC type 105 belt
tensioning measuring tool) to correctly set the
auxiliary drivebelt tension. If access to this
equipment cannot be obtained, an
approximate setting can be achieved using
the method described below. If the method
described is used, the tension should be

6000 Mile / 6 Month Service  

1•9

4.2a  Withdrawing the automatic

transmission dipstick

4.2b  Automatic transmission fluid dipstick

lower (a) and upper (b) fluid level markings

3.8  Using an oil filter removal tool to

slacken the oil filter

1

As the engine oil drain plug releases
from the threads, move it away sharply
so the stream of oil issuing from the
sump runs into the container, not up
your sleeve! 

Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
bank, call this
number free.

checked using the special electronic tool at
the earliest opportunity.
Except for XU9J4 16-valve engines, all
models are fitted with one auxiliary drivebelt
driven from the crankshaft pulley on the right-
hand side of the engine. On non-air
conditioning models the belt drives the
alternator and power steering pump and its
tension is adjusted manually. On models fitted
with air conditioning it drives the alternator,
power steering pump and the air conditioning
compressor. On XU9J4 models a separate
drivebelt drives the power steering pump from
a pulley on the end of the camshaft.

Checking the 
auxiliary drivebelt condition

Except XU9J4 16-valve 
power steering drivebelt

Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the car and support it on axle stands (see
Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the
right-hand front roadwheel.
Remove the engine undercover and
wheelarch cover as applicable.
Using a suitable socket and extension bar
fitted to the crankshaft sprocket/pulley bolt,
rotate the crankshaft so that the entire length
of the drivebelt can be examined. Examine the
drivebelt for cracks, splitting, fraying or
damage. Check also for signs of glazing (shiny
patches) and for separation of the belt plies.
Renew the belt if worn or damaged.
If the condition of the belt is satisfactory, on
models where the belt is adjusted manually,
check the drivebelt tension as described
below. On models with an automatic spring-
loaded tensioner, there is no need to check
the drivebelt tension.

XU9J4 16-valve 
power steering drivebelt

The power steering drivebelt is positioned
on the left-hand end of the cylinder head.
Examine the full length of the drivebelt for
cracks, splitting, fraying or damage. If
necessary turn the engine with a spanner on
the crankshaft pulley or by engaging 4th gear
and pushing the car (for safety, the car must
be on level ground). Check also for signs of
glazing (shiny patches) and for separation of
the belt plies.
If the condition of the belt is satisfactory,
check the drivebelt tension as described later
in this Section.

Auxiliary drivebelt 
(early models) - removal,
refitting and tensioning

Removal

Loosen the alternator pivot and link bolts,
then unscrew the adjuster bolt to release the
drivebelt tension (see illustration).
Remove the drivebelt from the alternator,
crankshaft and where necessary the power
steering pulleys.

Refitting and tensioning

10 Locate the drivebelt on the pulleys making
sure it is correctly engaged with the grooves.
11 The belt tension must be adjusted so that
with moderate thumb pressure applied mid-
way along the belt’s longest run, it can be
deflected by approximately 6.0 mm. Turn the
adjuster bolt in or out to obtain the correct
tension, then tighten the pivot and link bolts
(see illustration).

Auxiliary drivebelt 
(models with a manually-
adjusted tensioning pulley) -
removal, refitting and tensioning

Removal

12 If not already done, proceed as described
in paragraphs 2 and 3.
13 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
14 Slacken the tensioner pulley bracket
adjustment/mounting bolts (one located in the
middle of the pulley and the other located
below on the bracket (see illustration).
15 Fully tighten the adjustment bolt to its
stop, then slip the drivebelt from the pulleys
(see illustration).

Refitting

16 If the belt is being renewed, ensure that
the correct type is used. Fit the belt around
the pulleys, and take up the slack in the belt
by tightening the adjuster bolt. Ensure that the
ribs on the belt are correctly engaged with the
grooves in the pulleys.
17 Tension the drivebelt as described in the
following paragraphs.

Tensioning

18 If not already done, proceed as described
in paragraphs 2 and 3.
19 Correct tensioning of the drivebelt will
ensure that it has a long life. A belt which is
too slack will slip and perhaps squeal.
Beware, however, of overtightening, as this
can cause wear in the alternator bearings.
20 The belt should be tensioned so that,
under firm thumb pressure, there is approxi-
mately 5.0 mm of free movement at the mid-
point between the pulleys on the longest belt
run (see the note at the start of this Section).
21 To adjust, unscrew the adjustment bolt
until the tension is correct, then rotate the
crankshaft a couple of times, and recheck the
tension. Securely tighten the tensioner pulley
bracket adjustment/mounting bolts.
22 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
23 Refit the engine undercover and
wheelarch cover. Refit the roadwheel, and
lower the vehicle to the ground.

Auxiliary drivebelt 
(models with an automatic
spring-loaded tensioner pulley) -
removal, refitting and tensioning

Removal

24 If not already done, proceed as described
in paragraphs 2 and 3.
25 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
26 Using a square drive key in the square
hole in the bottom of the automatic adjuster
bracket, turn the bracket anticlockwise to
release the tension on the belt. Hold the
bracket in this position by inserting a 4.0 mm

1•10

6000 Mile / 6 Month Service

5.8  Loosening the alternator adjustment

bolts (early models)

5.14  Tensioner pulley bracket lower

mounting bolt (arrowed)

5.15  Auxiliary drivebelt tension adjustment

bolt (arrowed)

5.11  Alternator drivebelt deflection (A)

Allen key through the special hole and
tightening the peg.
27 Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove
the tensioner roller, then slip the auxiliary
drivebelt from the pulleys.
28 Check that the tensioner pulleys turn
freely without any sign of roughness.

Refitting and tensioning

29 If the belt is being renewed, ensure that
the correct type is used. Fit the belt around
the pulleys making sure that it is engaged with
the correct grooves in the pulleys.
30 Refit the tensioner roller and tighten the
mounting bolts.
31 Using the square drive key hold the
automatic adjuster, then release the peg and
slowly allow the tensioner to tighten the belt.
Check again that the belt is correctly located
in the pulley grooves.
32 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
33 Refit the engine undercover and
wheelarch cover. Refit the roadwheel, and
lower the vehicle to the ground.

Power steering pump drivebelt
(XU9J4 16-valve) models

Removal

34 Drain the hydraulic fluid from the system
as described in Chapter 10.
35 Loosen the pump mounting bolts and
remove the drivebelt.
36 Disconnect the high and low pressure
unions on the pump.

37 Remove the bolts and lift off the pump.

Refitting and tensioning

38 Refit in reverse order, then tension the
belt by applying a torque of 55 Nm for a new
belt and 30 Nm for a used belt by using the
square of a torque wrench in the square cut-
out in the pump bracket, tightening the
mounting bolts while the torque tension is
maintained (see illustration).
39 Fill and bleed the system (see Chapter 10).

6

Hose and fluid leak check

1

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is
9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months.
Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
gaskets and seals for any signs of water, oil or
fuel leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil
filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that,
over a period of time, some slight seepage
from these areas is to be expected. What you
are really looking for is any indication of a
serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew
the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to
the appropriate Chapters in this manual.
Also check the security and condition of all
the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure
that all cable-ties or securing clips are in place
and in good condition. Clips which are broken
or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses,
pipes, or wiring, which could cause more
serious problems in the future.
Carefully check the radiator hoses and
heater hoses along their entire length. Renew
any hose which is cracked, swollen, or
deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the
hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the
hose clips that secure the hoses to the
cooling system components. Hose clips can
pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling
system leaks. If the original Peugeot crimped-
type hose clips are used, it may be a good
idea to replace them with standard worm-
drive hose clips.

Inspect the cooling system (hoses, joint
faces, etc.) for leaks (see Haynes Hint).
Where any problems of this nature are
found on system components, renew the
component or gasket, referring to Chapter 3.
Where applicable, inspect the automatic
transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or
deterioration.
With the vehicle raised, inspect the petrol
tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks, and
other damage. The connection between the
filler neck and tank is especially critical.
Sometimes, a rubber filler neck or connecting
hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or
deteriorated rubber.
Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal
fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.
Check for loose connections, deteriorated
hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay
particular attention to the vent pipes and
hoses, which often loop up around the filler
neck, and can become blocked or crimped.
Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle,
carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew
damaged sections as necessary.
From within the engine compartment,
check the security of all fuel hose attachments
and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses
and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and
deterioration.
10 Where applicable, check the condition of
the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.

6000 Mile / 6 Month Service  

1•11

1

5.38  Square cut-out in power steering

pump bracket (a) on XU9J4 16-valve models

A leak in the cooling system will usually
show up as white or rust coloured
deposits on the area adjoining the leak

12 000 Mile / 12 Month Service

7

Engine breather hose check

1

Check the condition and security of all

engine breather hoses.

Where the engine has covered a high

mileage, remove the hoses and clean any
sludge from them.

8

Fuel filter renewal

2

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 18 000
miles (30 000 km) for carburettor models, and
36 000 miles (60 000 km) for fuel injection
models.

Carburettor models

The fuel filter is connected into the fuel
hose between the pump and the carburettor
in the engine compartment (see illustration).
To remove the filter, release the retaining
clips and disconnect the fuel hoses from the
filter. Where the original Peugeot crimped-

Warning: Before carrying out
the following operation, refer to
the precautions in “Safety first!”
and follow them implicitly.

Petrol is a highly-dangerous and volatile
liquid, and the precautions necessary
when handling it cannot be overstressed.

type hose clips are fitted, cut them off and
discard them; use standard worm-drive hose
clips on refitting.
Note the direction of the arrow marked on
the filter body. Unclip the filter from its
retaining bracket, and remove it from the
vehicle.
Connect the fuel hoses to the new filter.
Make sure that the arrow on the filter body is
pointing in the direction of the fuel flow, ie.
towards the fuel pump. Secure the hoses in
position by securely tightening the retaining
clips, then clip the filter back into position in
its retaining bracket.
At the same time, check the fuel reservoir
tank on the side of the carburettor for sediment.
Remove the reservoir as necessary for cleaning.
The fuel connections on the reservoir are as
follows.

a) Top hose - return to tank.
b) Middle hose - supply from pump via filter.
c) Lower hose - to carburettor inlet.

Fuel injection models

The fuel filter is situated underneath the rear
of the vehicle, mounted on the right-hand side
of the fuel tank. To gain access to the filter,
chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
Clamp the fuel hose on the tank side of the
filter. Bearing in mind the information given in
the relevant Part of Chapter 4 on depres-
surising the fuel system, release the clips and
disconnect the fuel hoses from the filter. Be
prepared for fuel spillage (see illustration).
Note the direction of the arrow marked on
the filter body. Slacken the retaining clamp
screw, then slide the filter out of the clamp,
and remove it from underneath the vehicle.
10 Dispose safely of the old filter; it will be
highly-inflammable, and may explode if
thrown on a fire.
11 Slide the new filter into position in the
clamp, ensuring that the arrow on the filter
body is pointing in the direction of the fuel
flow, ie. towards the throttle body/fuel rail.
This can be determined by tracing the fuel
hoses back along their length.
12 Connect the fuel hoses to the filter, and
secure them in position with their retaining
clips. Remove the hose clamp.

13 Start the engine, and check the filter hose
connections for leaks. Lower the vehicle to
the ground on completion.

9

Accelerator cable check 
and adjustment

1

Refer to Chapter 4A or 4B.

10 Idle speed and mixture

check and adjustment

3

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 
18 000 miles (30 000 km).
Before checking the idle speed and mixture
setting, always check the following first:

a) Check that (where adjustable) the ignition

timing is accurate (Chapter 5B).

b) Check that the spark plugs are in good

condition and correctly gapped (Section 11).

c) Check that the accelerator cable (and on

carburettor models, the choke cable) is
correctly adjusted (refer to the relevant
Part of Chapter 4).

d) Check that the crankcase breather hoses

are secure, with no leaks or kinks
(Sections 7 and 29).

e) Check that the air cleaner filter element is

clean (Section 21).

f) Check that the exhaust system is in good

condition (refer to the relevant Part of
Chapter 4).

g) If the engine is running roughly, check the

compression pressures and valve
clearances as described in Chapter 2.

h) On fuel injection models, check that the

fuel injection/ignition system warning light
is not illuminated (refer to the relevant
Part of Chapter 4).

Take the car on a journey of sufficient
length to warm it up to normal operating
temperature. Note: Adjustment should ideally
be completed within two minutes of return,
without stopping the engine. If the radiator
electric cooling fan operates, wait for the
cooling fan to stop. If adjustment takes longer
than stated,  regularly clear any excess fuel
from the inlet manifold by revving the engine
two or three times to about 2000 rpm, then
allow it to idle again.

Carburettor models

Ensure that all electrical loads are switched
off, and that the choke lever is pushed fully in.
If the car does not have a tachometer, connect
one following its manufacturer’s instructions.
Note the idle speed, and compare it with that
specified. Note: Models with air conditioning
have an idle compensation device, and the air
conditioning compressor must be running
while the idle speed is being checked and
adjusted.
Using a suitable flat-bladed screwdriver,
screw in the idle adjusting screw (to increase
the speed) or out as necessary to obtain the
specified speed. The screw is located on the
carburettor on non-air conditioning models,
and on the idle compensating device on air
conditioning models (see illustrations).
The idle mixture (exhaust gas CO level) is
set at the factory, and should require no
further adjustment. If, due to a change in
engine characteristics (carbon build-up, bore
wear etc) or after a major carburettor
overhaul, the mixture becomes incorrect, it
can be reset. Note, however, that an exhaust
gas analyser (CO meter) will be required to
check the mixture, and to set it with the
necessary standard of accuracy. If this is not
available, the car must be taken to a Peugeot
dealer for the work to be carried out.
Follow the exhaust gas analyser
manufacturer’s instructions to check the
exhaust gas CO level. If adjustment is
required, it is made via mixture adjustment

1•12

12 000 Mile / 12 Month Service

8.1  Fuel filter location on 

carburettor models

10.4a  Idle speed adjustment screw

(arrowed) on models with idle compensation

10.4b  Idle speed adjustment screw 

8.8  Fuel filter on fuel injection models

showing fuel hoses (A) and clamp bolt (B)

screw located on the carburettor. The screw
is covered with a tamperproof plug to prevent
unnecessary adjustment. To gain access to
the screw, use a sharp instrument to hook out
the plug.
Using a suitable flat-bladed screwdriver,
turn the mixture adjustment screw by very
small amounts until the level is correct (see
illustration)
. Screwing it in (clockwise)
weakens the idle mixture and reduces the CO
level; screwing it out will richen the mixture
and increase the CO level.
When adjustments are complete, disconnect
any test equipment, and fit a new tamperproof
plug to the mixture adjustment screw. Recheck
the idle speed and, if necessary, readjust.

Fuel injection models

Bosch L3.1-Jetronic system

Ensure that all electrical loads are switched
off. If the car does not have a tachometer,
connect one following its manufacturer’s
instructions. Note the idle speed, and
compare it with that specified.
10 The idle speed is adjusted using the idle
speed adjustment screw on the throttle
housing (see illustration). Turn the screw
clockwise to decrease the idle speed, or anti-
clockwise to increase the speed.
11 The idle mixture (exhaust gas CO level) is
set at the factory, and should require no
further adjustment. If, due to a change in
engine characteristics (carbon build-up, bore
wear etc) or after a major overhaul, the
mixture becomes incorrect, it can be reset.
Note, however, that an exhaust gas analyser

(CO meter) will be required to check the
mixture, and to set it with the necessary
standard of accuracy. If this is not available,
the car must be taken to a Peugeot dealer for
the work to be carried out.
12 Follow the exhaust gas analyser
manufacturer’s instructions to check the
exhaust gas CO level. If adjustment is
required, it is made via mixture adjustment
screw located on the airflow meter (see
Chapter 4C). The screw may be covered with
a tamperproof plug to prevent unnecessary
adjustment. To gain access to the screw, use
a sharp instrument to hook out the plug.
13 Using a flat-bladed screwdriver, turn the
mixture adjustment screw by small amounts
until the level is correct (see illustration).
14 When adjustments are complete, disconnect
any test equipment, and fit a new tamperproof
plug to the mixture adjustment screw. Recheck
the idle speed and, if necessary, readjust.

Bosch ML4.1 Motronic system

15 The idle speed is non-adjustable. It is
controlled by the idle speed regulator valve.
16 The idle mixture (exhaust gas CO level) is
set at the factory, and should require no
further adjustment. If, due to a change in
engine characteristics (carbon build-up, bore
wear etc) or after a major overhaul, the
mixture becomes incorrect, it can be reset.
Note, however, that an exhaust gas analyser
(CO meter) will be required to check the
mixture, and to set it with the necessary
standard of accuracy. If this is not available,
the car must be taken to a Peugeot dealer for
the work to be carried out.

17 Follow the exhaust gas analyser
manufacturer’s instructions to check the
exhaust gas CO level. If adjustment is
required, it is made via mixture adjustment
screw located on the airflow meter (see
illustration)
. The screw may be covered with
a tamperproof plug to prevent unnecessary
adjustment. To gain access to the screw, use
a sharp instrument to hook out the plug.
18 Turn the screw clockwise to increase and
anti-clockwise to decrease CO content until
the specified CO level is obtained.
19 When adjustments are complete,
disconnect any test equipment, and fit a new
tamperproof plug to the mixture adjustment
screw.

Bosch LU2-Jetronic system

20 The idle mixture is not adjustable and is
automatically regulated by the ECU.
21 To check the idle speed connect a
tachometer to the engine, then run the engine
at idle speed.
22 Turn the idle speed adjustment screw to
obtain the specified idle speed (see
illustration)
.
23 When adjustments are complete,
disconnect any test gear from the engine.

Bosch Motronic MP3.1 system

24 Ensure that all electrical loads are
switched off. If the car does not have a
tachometer, connect one following its
manufacturer’s instructions. Note the idle
speed, and compare it with that specified.
25 Turn the idle speed adjustment screw to
obtain the specified idle speed (see
illustration)
.

12 000 Mile / 12 Month Service  

1•13

10.13  Mixture (CO) adjustment screw on

the Bosch L3.1 injection control unit

10.25  Idle speed adjustment screw (1) on

the Bosch Motronic MP3.1 system

10.22  Idle speed adjustment screw (2) on

the Bosch LU2-Jetronic injection system

10.17  Mixture (CO) adjustment screw

(arrowed) on Bosch ML4.1 Motronic system

10.10  Adjusting the idle speed screw on

the Bosch L3.1 injection system

1

10.7  Idle mixture adjustment screw

(arrowed)

26 The idle mixture (exhaust gas CO level) is
set at the factory, and should require no
further adjustment. If, due to a change in
engine characteristics (carbon build-up, bore
wear etc) or after a major overhaul, the
mixture becomes incorrect, it can be reset.
Note, however, that an exhaust gas analyser
(CO meter) will be required to check the
mixture, and to set it with the necessary
standard of accuracy. If this is not available,
the car must be taken to a Peugeot dealer for
the work to be carried out.
27 Follow the exhaust gas analyser
manufacturer’s instructions to check the
exhaust gas CO level. If adjustment is
required, it is made via mixture adjustment
screw (see illustration). The screw may be
covered with a tamperproof plug to prevent
unnecessary adjustment. To gain access to
the screw, use a sharp instrument to hook out
the plug.
28 Turn the screw clockwise to increase and
anti-clockwise to decrease CO content until
the specified CO level is obtained.
29 When adjustments are complete,
disconnect any test equipment, and fit a new
tamperproof plug to the mixture adjustment
screw.

Bosch Motronic M1.3 fuel injection
system

30 The idle speed is only adjustable on the
XU9JA/Z engine - on other engines it is
controlled by the ECU and idle speed control
valve.
31 Ensure that all electrical loads are
switched off. If the car does not have a
tachometer, connect one following its
manufacturer’s instructions. Note the idle
speed, and compare it with that specified.
32 Turn the idle speed adjustment screw to
obtain the specified idle speed (see
illustration)
.
33 The idle mixture (CO) is only adjustable on
the XU9J4/K engine - on other engines it is
controlled by the ECU.
34 The idle mixture (exhaust gas CO level) is
set at the factory, and should require no
further adjustment. If, due to a change in
engine characteristics (carbon build-up, bore
wear etc) or after a major overhaul, the
mixture becomes incorrect, it can be reset.
Note, however, that an exhaust gas analyser

(CO meter) will be required to check the
mixture, and to set it with the necessary
standard of accuracy. If this is not available,
the car must be taken to a Peugeot dealer for
the work to be carried out.
35 Follow the exhaust gas analyser
manufacturer’s instructions to check the
exhaust gas CO level. If adjustment is
required, it is made via mixture adjustment
screw located on top of the airflow meter
assembly (see illustration). The screw may
be covered with a tamperproof plug to
prevent unnecessary adjustment. To gain
access to the screw, use a sharp instrument
to hook out the plug.
36 Turn the screw clockwise to increase and
anti-clockwise to decrease CO content until
the specified CO level is obtained.

All other fuel injection systems

37 Experienced home mechanics, with a
considerable amount of skill and equipment
(including a tachometer and an accurate
exhaust gas analyser) may be able to check
the exhaust CO level and the idle speed.
However, if these are found to be in need of
adjustment, the car must be taken to a
suitably-equipped Peugeot dealer.
38 On models with a Magneti Marelli engine
management (fuel injection/ignition) system,
adjustment of the mixture setting (exhaust gas
CO level) is possible, but adjustments can
only be made by reprogramming the engine
management ECU using special electronic
test equipment which is connected to the
diagnostic connector (see Chapter 4).
39 On all other vehicles, adjustments are not
possible. If the idle speed or the exhaust gas
CO level is incorrect, there must be a fault in
the engine management system, and the
vehicle should be taken to a Peugeot dealer
for testing (see Chapter 4).

11 Spark plug renewal

2

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 
18 000 miles (30 000 km).
The correct functioning of the spark plugs is
vital for the correct running and efficiency of

the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted
are appropriate for the engine (the suitable
type is specified at the beginning of this
Chapter). If this type is used, and the engine is
in good condition, the spark plugs should not
need attention between scheduled
replacement intervals. Spark plug cleaning is
rarely necessary, and should not be
attempted unless specialised equipment is
available, as damage can easily be caused to
the firing ends.
On 16-valve models, to gain access to the
spark plugs, the access cover fitted over the
centre of the cylinder head must first be
removed. Undo the eight bolts, noting the
position of the wiring retaining clip, and
remove the cover (see illustration).
On other models, to improve access to
some of the plugs, it may be necessary to
remove the air inlet duct (refer to Chapter 4 for
further information).
On 1998 cc 16-valve models, pull the HT
coils off the spark plugs. If necessary, to
remove the possibility of the HT coils being
connected to the wrong spark plugs on
refitting, mark the coils 1 to 4 (No 1 cylinder is
at the transmission end of the engine).
On all other models, if the marks on the
original-equipment spark plug (HT) leads
cannot be seen, mark the leads 1 to 4,
corresponding to the cylinder the lead serves
(No 1 cylinder is at the transmission end of the
engine). Pull the leads from the plugs by
gripping the end fitting, not the lead,
otherwise the lead connection may be
fractured 

(see illustration).

1•14

12 000 Mile / 12 Month Service

10.27  Mixture (CO) adjustment screw (2)

on the Bosch MP3.1 fuel injection system

10.35  Mixture adjustment screw (5) on the

Bosch Motronic M1.3 fuel injection system

11.2  On 16-valve models undo the eight

bolts (arrowed) and remove the access

cover to reach the spark plugs

10.32  Idle speed adjustment screw (7) on

the Bosch Motronic M1.3 injection system

It is advisable to remove the dirt from the
spark plug recesses, using a clean brush,
vacuum cleaner or compressed air before
removing the plugs, to prevent dirt dropping
into the cylinders.
Unscrew the plugs using a spark plug
spanner, suitable box spanner, or a deep
socket and extension bar (see illustration).
Keep the socket aligned with the spark plug -
if it is forcibly moved to one side, the ceramic
insulator may be broken off. As each plug is
removed, examine it as follows.
Examination of the spark plugs will give a
good indication of the condition of the engine.
If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean
and white, with no deposits, this is indicative
of a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug
transfers heat away from the electrode slowly,
a cold plug transfers heat away quickly).
If the tip and insulator nose are covered
with hard black-looking deposits, then this is
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should
the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture
being too rich.

10 If the insulator nose is covered with light
tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the
mixture is correct, and it is likely that the
engine is in good condition.
11 The spark plug electrode gap is of
considerable importance as, if it is too large or
too small, the size of the spark and its
efficiency will be seriously impaired. The gap
should be set to the value given in the Specifi-
cations at the beginning of this Chapter.
12 To set the gap, measure it with a feeler
blade, then bend the outer plug electrode until
the correct gap is achieved (see illustration).
The centre electrode should never be bent, as
this may crack the insulator and cause plug
failure, if nothing worse. If using feeler blades,
the gap is correct when the appropriate-size
blade is a firm, sliding fit.
13 Special spark plug electrode gap
adjusting tools are available from most motor
accessory shops, or from some spark plug
manufacturers.
14 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that
the threaded connector sleeves (on top of the
plug) are tight, and that the plug exterior
surfaces and threads are clean. It is very often
difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes
without cross-threading them. To avoid this
possibility, fit a short length of hose over the
end of the spark plug (see Haynes Hint).
15 Remove the rubber hose (if used), and
tighten the plug to the specified torque (see
“Specifications”) using the spark plug socket
and a torque wrench. Refit the remaining
plugs in the same way.
16 
Connect the HT leads in the correct order,
and refit any components removed for
access. On 1998 cc 16-valve models, connect
the HT coils in their correct order.

12 Clutch adjustment check

and control mechanism
lubrication

2

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 
9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months for clutch
adjustment, and 18 000 miles (30 000 km) for
lubrication.
Check that the clutch pedal moves
smoothly and easily through its full travel.

The clutch itself should function correctly,
with no trace of slip or drag.
Where possible, adjust the clutch cable if
necessary, as described in Chapter 6.
If excessive effort is required to operate the
clutch, check first that the cable is correctly
routed and undamaged. Remove the pedal,
and make sure that its pivot is properly
greased. Refer to Chapter 6 for further
information.

13 Driveshaft gaiter check

1

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 
9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months.

With the vehicle raised and securely

supported on stands, turn the steering onto
full lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel.
Inspect the condition of the outer constant
velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, while
squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds
(see illustration). Check for signs of cracking,
splits, or deterioration of the rubber, which
may allow the grease to escape, and lead to
water and grit entry into the joint. Also check
the security and condition of the retaining
clips. Repeat these checks on the inner CV
joints. If any damage or deterioration is found,
the gaiters should be renewed without delay
as described in Chapter 8.

At the same time, check the general

condition of the CV joints themselves, by first
holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate

12 000 Mile / 12 Month Service  

1•15

13.1  Check the condition of the driveshaft

gaiters (arrowed)

11.12  Measuring the spark plug gap with a

feeler blade

11.7  Tools required for spark plug

removal, gap adjustment and refitting

11.5  Pulling the HT leads 

from the spark plugs

1

It is often difficult to insert spark plugs
into their holes without cross-threading
them. To avoid this possibility, fit a
short length of 5/16 inch internal
diameter rubber hose over the end of
the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as
a universal joint to help align the plug
with the plug hole. Should the plug
begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip
on the spark plug, preventing thread
damage to the cylinder head.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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