Peugeot 405 Haynes (petrol). Manual - part 5

the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the
inner joint and attempting to rotate the
driveshaft. Any obvious movement indicates
wear in the joints, wear in the driveshaft splines,
or a loose driveshaft retaining nut.

14 Front and rear 

disc pad check

1

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 
18 000 miles (30 000 km) for the front brake
pads, and 36 000 miles (60 000 km) for the
rear brake pads or shoes.
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front or rear of the car (as applicable) and
support it securely on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the
front or rear roadwheels.

2 If any pad’s friction material is worn to the
specified thickness or less, all four pads must
be renewed as a set.
3 For a comprehensive check, the brake pads
should be removed and cleaned. The
operation of the caliper can then also be
checked, and the condition of the brake disc
itself can be fully examined on both sides.
Refer to Chapter 9 for further information.

15 Handbrake check and

adjustment

3

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 
9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months.

Refer to Chapter 9.

16 Steering 

and suspension check

2

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 
9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months.

Front suspension 
and steering check

1 Raise the front of the car, and support on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

2 Inspect the balljoint dust covers and the
steering rack-and-pinion gaiters for splits,
chafing or deterioration. Any wear of these
components will cause loss of lubricant, with
dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid
deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear.
3 On vehicles with power steering, check the
fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and
the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also
check for signs of fluid leakage under
pressure from the steering gear rubber
gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals
within the steering gear.
4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock 
and 6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it (see
illustration). Very slight free play may be felt,
but if the movement is appreciable, further
investigation is necessary to determine the
source. Continue rocking the wheel while an
assistant depresses the footbrake. If the
movement is now eliminated or significantly
reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are
at fault. If the free play is still evident with the
footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the
suspension joints or mountings.
5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock 
and 3 o’clock positions, and try to rock it as
before. Any movement felt now may again be
caused by wear in the hub bearings or the
steering track-rod balljoints. If the outer
balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be
obvious. If the inner joint is suspect, it can be
felt by placing a hand over the rack-and-pinion
rubber gaiter and gripping the track-rod. If the
wheel is now rocked, movement will be felt at
the inner joint if wear has taken place.
6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check
for wear in the suspension mounting bushes
by levering between the relevant suspension
component and its attachment point. Some
movement is to be expected, as the
mountings are made of rubber, but excessive
wear should be obvious. Also check the
condition of any visible rubber bushes,
looking for splits, cracks or contamination of
the rubber.
7 With the car standing on its wheels, have an
assistant turn the steering wheel back and
forth, about an eighth of a turn each way.
There should be very little, if any, lost
movement between the steering wheel and
roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely
observe the joints and mountings previously
described. In addition, check the steering
column universal joints for wear, and also
check the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.

Rear suspension check

8 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the car and support on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

9 Working as described previously for the
front suspension, check the rear hub
bearings, the suspension bushes and the
shock absorber mountings for wear.

Suspension strut/
shock absorber check

10 Check for any signs of fluid leakage
around the suspension strut/shock absorber
body, or from the rubber gaiter around the
piston rod. Should any fluid be noticed, the
suspension strut/shock absorber is defective
internally, and should be renewed. Note:
Suspension struts/shock absorbers should
always be renewed in pairs on the same axle.
11 The efficiency of the suspension
strut/shock absorber may be checked by
bouncing the vehicle at each corner.
Generally speaking, the body will return to its
normal position and stop after being
depressed. If it rises and returns on a
rebound, the suspension strut/shock
absorber is probably suspect. Examine also
the suspension strut/shock absorber upper
and lower mountings for any signs of wear.

17 Body drain channel check

1

Check and unblock all door and sill drain

channels. Also check the heater drain tube
located at the rear of the engine
compartment.

1•16

12 000 Mile / 12 Month Service

16.4  Check for wear in the hub bearings

by grasping the wheel and trying to rock it

For a quick check, the
thickness of friction material
remaining on each brake pad
can be measured through

the aperture in the caliper body.

20 Coolant renewal

2

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is every 
2 years, regardless of mileage.

Cooling system draining

1 With the engine completely cold, remove
the expansion tank filler cap. Turn the cap
anti-clockwise until it reaches the first stop.
Wait until any pressure remaining in the

system is released, then push the cap down,
turn it anti-clockwise to the second stop, and
lift it off.
2 Position a suitable container beneath the
coolant drain outlet at the lower left-hand side
of the radiator.
3 Loosen the drain plug (there is no need to
remove it completely) and allow the coolant to
drain into the container. If desired, a length of
tubing can be fitted to the drain outlet to
direct the flow of coolant during draining (see
illustration).

4 To assist draining, open the cooling system
bleed screws. On all except 1.4 litre engines,
the bleed screws are located in the thermostat
cover and thermostat housing. On 1.4 litre
engines, the bleed screws are located in the
thermostat housing, and in the cylinder head
coolant bypass hose. Additionally, on 2.0 litre
XU10J4 engines, there is a bleed screw
located in the coolant bypass hose behind the
cylinder head. All models also have a bleed
screw located at the top left-hand corner of
the radiator (see illustrations).

18 Hinge and lock lubrication

1

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 
36 000 miles (60 000 km).
1 Work around the vehicle, and lubricate the
hinges of the bonnet, doors and tailgate with a
light machine oil.
2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release
mechanism and exposed section of inner
cable with a smear of grease.
3 Check carefully the security and operation
of all hinges, latches and locks, adjusting
them where required. Check the operation of
the central locking system (if fitted).
4 Check the condition and operation of the
tailgate struts, renewing them if either is
leaking or is no longer able to support the
tailgate securely when raised.

19 Air conditioning refrigerant

check

1

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 
18 000 miles (30 000 km).

1 In order to check the condition of the
refrigerant, a humidity indicator and a sight
glass are provided on top of the drier bottle,
located in the front, left-hand corner of the
engine compartment (see illustration).

Refrigerant humidity check

2 Check the colour of the humidity indicator.
Blue indicates that the condition of the
refrigerant is satisfactory. Pink indicates that

the refrigerant is saturated with humidity. If
the indicator shows red, the system should be
drained and recharged, and a new drier bottle
should be fitted. Note: The system should be
drained and recharged only by a Peugeot
dealer or air conditioning specialist. Do not
attempt to carry out the work yourself, as the
refrigerant is a highly-dangerous substance
(refer to Chapter 3).

Refrigerant flow check

3 Run the engine, and switch on the air
conditioning.
4 After a few minutes, inspect the sight glass,
and check the fluid flow. Clear fluid should be
visible - if not, the following will help to
diagnose the problem:

a) Clear fluid flow - the system is functioning

correctly.

b) No fluid flow - have the system checked

for leaks by a Peugeot dealer or air
conditioning specialist.

c) Continuous stream of clear air bubbles in

fluid - refrigerant level low - have the
system recharged by a Peugeot dealer or
air conditioning specialist.

d) Milky air bubbles visible - high humidity

(see paragraph 2).

18 000 Mile / 18 Month Service

18 000 Mile / 18 Month Service  

1•17

20.4a  Cooling system bleed screws on

thermostat housing and cover (arrowed) -

1.6 litre engine shown

19.1  Air conditioning system drier bottle

sight glass (1) and humidity indicator (2)

20.3  Radiator drain outlet (arrowed)

1

Warning: Do not attempt to
open the refrigerant circuit.
Refer to the precautions given
in Chapter 3.

24 000 Mile / 2 Year Service

Warning: Wait until the engine is
cold before starting this
procedure. Do not allow
antifreeze to come in contact

with your skin, or with the painted
surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills
immediately with plenty of water. Never
leave antifreeze lying around in an open
container, or in a puddle in the driveway
or on the garage floor. Children and pets
are attracted by its sweet smell, but
antifreeze can be fatal if ingested.

5 On 1.4 litre and 2.0 litre engines, when the
flow of coolant stops, reposition the container
below the cylinder block drain plug. On 
1.4 litre engines, the drain plug is located at
the front left-hand end of the cylinder 
block. On 2.0 litre engines, the drain plug is
located at the rear left-hand end of the
cylinder block, next to the rear engine
mounting (see illustrations). On 1.6, 1.8 and
1.9 litre engines, no cylinder block drain plug
is fitted.
6 Where applicable, remove the cylinder
block drain plug, and allow the coolant to
drain into the container.
7 If the coolant has been drained for a reason
other than renewal, then provided it is clean
and less than two years old, it can be re-used,
though this is not recommended.
8 Refit and tighten the radiator and cylinder
block drain plugs, as applicable, on
completion of draining.

Cooling system flushing

9 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if
the antifreeze mixture has become diluted,
then in time, the cooling system may gradually
lose efficiency, as the coolant passages
become restricted due to rust, scale deposits,
and other sediment. The cooling system
efficiency can be restored by flushing the
system clean.
10 The radiator should be flushed
independently of the engine, to avoid
unnecessary contamination.

Radiator flushing

11 To flush the radiator, first tighten the

radiator drain plug, and the radiator bleed
screw, where applicable.
12 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses and
any other relevant hoses from the radiator,
with reference to Chapter 3.
13 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top
inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the
radiator, and continue flushing until clean
water emerges from the radiator bottom
outlet.
14 If after a reasonable period, the water still
does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed
with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is
important that the manufacturer’s instructions
are followed carefully. If the contamination is
particularly bad, insert the hose in the radiator
bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator.

Engine flushing

15 To flush the engine, first refit and tighten
the cylinder block drain plug (where
applicable), and tighten the cooling system
bleed screws.
16 Remove the thermostat as described in
Chapter 3, then temporarily refit the
thermostat cover.
17 With the top and bottom hoses
disconnected from the radiator (see Chapter 3
- it may be preferable to disconnect the
bottom hose from the engine), insert a garden
hose into the radiator top hose. Direct a clean
flow of water through the engine, and
continue flushing until clean water emerges
from the radiator bottom hose.
18 On completion of flushing, refit the
thermostat and reconnect the hoses with
reference to Chapter 3.

Cooling system filling

19 Before attempting to fill the cooling
system, make sure that all hoses and clips are
in good condition, and that the clips are tight.
Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used
all year round, to prevent corrosion of the
engine components (see following sub-
Section). Also check that the radiator and
cylinder block drain plugs, as applicable, are
in place and tight.
20 Remove the expansion tank cap.
21 Open all the cooling system bleed screws
(see paragraph 4).
22 Some of the cooling system hoses are
positioned at a higher level than the top of the
radiator expansion tank. It is therefore
necessary to use a “header tank” when
refilling the cooling system, to reduce the
possibility of air being trapped in the system.
Although Peugeot dealers use a special
header tank, the same effect can be achieved
by using a suitable bottle, with a seal between
the bottle and the expansion tank (see
illustration and Haynes Hint).
23 Fit the “header tank” to the expansion
tank and slowly fill the system. Coolant will
emerge from each of the bleed screws in turn,
starting with the lowest screw. As soon as
coolant free from air bubbles emerges from
the lowest screw, tighten that screw, and
watch the next bleed screw in the system.
Repeat the procedure until the coolant is

1•18

24 000 Mile / 2 Year Service

20.4b  Coolant bypass hose bleed screw

(arrowed) - 1.4 litre engine

20.5a  Cylinder block drain plug location

(arrowed) - 1.4 litre engine

20.22  Peugeot cooling system 

“header tank” in position

20.5b  Cylinder block drain plug location

(arrowed) - 2.0 litre engine

20.4c  Radiator bleed screw (arrowed)

Cut the bottom off an old antifreeze
container to make a ‘header tank’ for
use when refilling the cooling system.
The seal at the point arrowed must be
as airtight as possible

emerging from the highest bleed screw in the
cooling system and all bleed screws are
securely tightened. Keep the “header tank”
full during this procedure.
24 Once all the bleed screws are securely
tightened, remove the “header tank” and refit
the expansion tank cap.
25 Start the engine, and run it at 1500 rpm.
Maintain this engine speed until the radiator
cooling fan has cut in and out three times.
26 Allow the engine to run at idle speed for a
few minutes.
27 Stop the engine, and wait for at least ten
minutes.
28 Place a large wad of rag around the
expansion tank cap, and around your hand,
then carefully remove the expansion tank cap.
Turn the cap anti-clockwise until it reaches
the first stop. Wait until any pressure
remaining in the system is released, then push
the cap down, turn it anti-clockwise to the
second stop, and lift it off.

29 Check the coolant level, and if necessary
top-up the expansion tank to just above the
“MAXI” level mark (see “Weekly checks”).
30 Refit the expansion tank cap.

Antifreeze mixture

31 The antifreeze should always be renewed
at the specified intervals. This is necessary
not only to maintain the antifreeze properties,
but also to prevent corrosion which would
otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors
become progressively less effective.
32 Always use an ethylene-glycol based
antifreeze which is suitable for use in mixed-
metal cooling systems. The quantity of
antifreeze and levels of protection are
indicated in the Specifications.
33 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling
system should be completely drained,
preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for
condition and security.
34 After filling with antifreeze, a label should
be attached to the expansion tank, stating the
type and concentration of antifreeze used,
and the date installed. Any subsequent
topping-up should be made with the same
type and concentration of antifreeze.
35 Do not use engine antifreeze in the
windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will
cause damage to the vehicle paintwork. A
screenwash additive should be added to the
washer system in the quantities stated on the
bottle.

21 Air filter renewal

2

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 
36 000 miles (60 000 km).

TU models

1 Slacken the retaining clips (where fitted),
and disconnect the vacuum hose and
breather hose from the front of the air cleaner
housing-to-carburettor/throttle body duct
(see illustration). Where the crimped-type
Peugeot hose clips are fitted, cut the clips and
discard them; use standard worm-drive hose
clips on refitting.
2 Slacken the retaining clip securing the duct
to the carburettor/throttle body. Release the
retaining clips securing the lid to the top of the
air cleaner housing. Lift the duct and air
cleaner lid assembly away, and position it
clear of the air cleaner housing (see
illustrations).
3 Lift the air cleaner element out of the
housing (see illustration).
4 Fit the new element into the housing, and
secure it in position with the retaining clips.
5 Refit the sealing ring to the top of the filter

(where fitted), and refit the air cleaner-to-
carburettor/throttle body duct. Ensure that the
duct and its sealing rings are correctly seated,
and securely tighten the retaining clips.
6 Reconnect the vacuum and breather hoses
to the duct, and secure them in position with
the retaining clips (where fitted).

XU models 
(except XU10J4 16-valve) 
with side-mounted air cleaner

7 Disconnect the air duct from the filter
housing cover to the carburettor/airflow meter
at the filter housing end (see illustration).
8 Release the clips and lift off the air cleaner
top cover (see illustration).
9 Withdraw the filter element from the air
cleaner body (see illustration).
10 Fit the new element in position in the air
cleaner body making sure that it is the right
way round.

24 000 Mile / 2 Year Service  

1•19

21.2b  . . . and remove the duct, positioning

it clear of the air cleaner housing

21.8  Lifting off the top cover

21.7  Air filter housing cover located in the
left-hand front of the engine compartment

21.3  Removing the air cleaner element 

on TU models

21.2a  . . . then release the air cleaner lid

retaining clips, and the duct clip . . .

21.1  On TU models disconnect the hoses

from the front of the duct . . .

1

Warning: Take precautions
against scalding, as the cooling
system will be hot.

11 Refit the top cover and attach the clips.
12 Reconnect the air duct.

XU models 
(except XU10J4 16-valve) 
with top-mounted air cleaner

13 Slacken the retaining clip, and disconnect
the inlet duct from the front of the cylinder
head cover (see illustration).
14 Slacken and remove the two retaining
screws situated at the front of the cylinder
head cover, then release the two air filter
cover retaining clips. Remove the filter cover
from the cylinder head cover, and withdraw
the filter element (see illustrations).
15 Fit the new element in position in the
cylinder head cover. Refit the filter cover, and
secure it with its retaining screws and clips.
16 Reconnect the inlet duct to the cylinder
head cover, and tighten its retaining clip.

XU10J4 16-valve models

17 Disconnect the air duct and remove the
cover from the end of the air cleaner body.
18 Withdraw the air filter element noting
which way round it is fitted.
19 Fit the new element in the body, ensuring
that it is fitted the correct way round.
20 Refit the cover and air duct.

22 Ignition system check

3

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 
18 000 miles (30 000 km).

1 The ignition system components should be
checked for damage or deterioration as
described under the relevant sub-heading.

Ignition systems 
incorporating a distributor

General component check

2 The spark plug (HT) leads should be
checked whenever new spark plugs are
installed in the engine.
3 Ensure that the leads are numbered before
removing them, to avoid confusion when
refitting. Pull the leads from the plugs by
gripping the end fitting, not the lead,
otherwise the lead connection may be
fractured.
4 Check inside the end fitting for signs of
corrosion, which will look like a white crusty
powder. Push the end fitting back onto the
spark plug, ensuring that it is a tight fit on the
plug. If not, remove the lead again, and use
pliers to carefully crimp the metal connector
inside the end fitting until it fits securely on the
end of the spark plug.
5 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of
the lead to remove any built-up dirt and

grease. Once the lead is clean, check for
burns, cracks and other damage. Do not bend
the lead excessively, or pull the lead
lengthways - the conductor inside might
break.
6 Disconnect the other end of the lead from
the distributor cap. Again, pull only on the end
fitting. Check for corrosion and a tight fit in the
same manner as the spark plug end. If an
ohmmeter is available, check the resistance of
the lead by connecting the meter between the
spark plug end of the lead and the segment
inside the distributor cap. Refit the lead
securely on completion.
7 Check the remaining leads one at a time, in
the same way.
8 If new spark plug (HT) leads are required,
purchase a set for your specific car and
engine.
9 Remove the distributor cap by unscrewing
its retaining screws. Wipe it clean, and
carefully inspect it inside and out for signs of
cracks, carbon tracks (tracking) and worn,
burned or loose contacts; check that the
cap’s carbon brush is unworn, free to move
against spring pressure, and making good
contact with the rotor arm. Also inspect the
cap seal for signs of wear or damage, and
renew if necessary. Remove the rotor arm
from the distributor shaft and inspect it (see
illustration). It is common practice to renew
the cap and rotor arm whenever new spark
plug (HT) leads are fitted. When fitting a new
cap, remove the leads from the old cap one at
a time, and fit them to the new cap in the
exact same location - do not simultaneously
remove all the leads from the old cap, or firing
order confusion may occur. On refitting,

1•20

24 000 Mile / 2 Year Service

21.9  Removing the air filter element

21.14a  . . . then slacken the retaining

screws (arrowed) . . .

21.14d  . . . and withdraw the filter element

21.14c  Lift off the filter cover . . .

21.14b  . . . and release the retaining clips

21.13  Disconnect the intake duct from the

front of the cylinder head cover . . .

Warning: Voltages produced by
an electronic ignition system
are considerably higher than
those produced by conventional

ignition systems. Extreme care must be
taken if working on the system with the
ignition switched on. Persons with
surgically-implanted cardiac pacemaker
devices should keep well clear of the
ignition circuits, components and test
equipment.

ensure that the arm is securely pressed onto
the shaft, and tighten the cap retaining screws
securely.
10 Even with the ignition system in first class
condition, some engines may still occasionally
experience poor starting, attributable to damp
ignition components. To disperse moisture, a
water-dispersant aerosol can be very
effective.

Ignition timing check and adjustment

11 Check the ignition timing as described in
Chapter 5B.

Static (distributorless) 
ignition systems

General component check

12 On all except 1998 cc 16-valve models,
check the condition of the HT leads as
described above. On 1998 cc 16-valve
models, there are no HT leads, so the only
relevant check is that all the primary (LT)
circuit wiring connectors are clean and free of
corrosion.

Ignition timing check and adjustment

13 Refer to Chapter 5B.

23 Automatic transmission fluid

renewal

2

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 
18 000 miles (30 000 km).
1 Take the vehicle on a short run, to warm the
transmission up to normal operating
temperature.
2 Park the car on level ground, then switch off
the ignition and apply the handbrake firmly.
For improved access, jack up the front of the
car and support it securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Note

that, when refilling and checking the fluid
level, the car must be lowered to the ground,
and level, to ensure accuracy.
3 Remove the dipstick, then position a
suitable container under the transmission. The
transmission has two drain plugs: one on the
sump, and another on the bottom of the
differential housing (see illustration).
4 Unscrew both drain plugs, and allow the
fluid to drain completely into the container.

5 When the fluid has finished draining, clean
the drain plug threads and those of the
transmission casing. Fit a new sealing washer
to each drain plug, and refit the plugs to the
transmission, tightening each securely. If the
car was raised for the draining operation, now
lower it to the ground. Make sure that the car
is level (front-to-rear and side-to-side).
6 Refilling the transmission is an awkward
operation, adding the specified type of fluid to
the transmission a little at a time via the
dipstick tube. Use a funnel with a fine mesh
gauze, to avoid spillage, and to ensure that no
foreign matter enters the transmission. Allow
plenty of time for the fluid level to settle
properly.
7 Once the level is up to the MAX mark on the
dipstick, refit the dipstick. Start the engine,
and allow it to idle for a few minutes. Switch
the engine off, then recheck the level,
topping-up if necessary. Take the car on a
short run to fully distribute the new fluid
around the transmission, then recheck the
fluid level as described in “Weekly checks”.

24 Brake fluid renewal

2

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is every 
2 years, regardless of mileage.

1 The procedure is similar to that for the
bleeding of the hydraulic system as described
in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid
reservoir should be emptied by siphoning,
using a clean poultry baster or similar before
starting, and allowance should be made for
the old fluid to be expelled when bleeding a
section of the circuit.
2 Working as described in Chapter 9, open
the first bleed screw in the sequence, and
pump the brake pedal gently until nearly all
the old fluid has been emptied from the
master cylinder reservoir. Top-up to the
“MAX” level with new fluid, and continue
pumping until only the new fluid remains in the
reservoir, and new fluid can be seen emerging
from the bleed screw. Tighten the screw, and
top the reservoir level up to the “MAX” level
line.

3 Work through all the remaining bleed
screws in the sequence until new fluid can be
seen at all of them. Be careful to keep the
master cylinder reservoir topped-up to above
the “MIN” level at all times, or air may enter
the system and greatly increase the length of
the task.
4 When the operation is complete, check that
all bleed screws are securely tightened, and
that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off all
traces of spilt fluid, and recheck the master
cylinder reservoir fluid level.
5 Check the operation of the brakes before
taking the car on the road.

24 000 Mile / 2 Year Service  

1•21

23.3  Automatic transmission fluid drain

plugs (arrowed). Transmission is refilled

via the dipstick tube (1)

22.9  The rotor arm is a push fit on the

distributor shaft

1

Warning: If the fluid is hot, take
precautions against scalding.
Clean the drain plugs, being
especially careful to wipe any

metallic particles off the magnetic insert.
Discard the original sealing washers;
these should be renewed whenever they
are disturbed.

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and
damage painted surfaces, so
use extreme caution when

handling and pouring it. Do not use fluid
that has been standing open for some
time, as it absorbs moisture from the air.
Excess moisture content can cause a
dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Old hydraulic fluid is
invariably much darker in
colour than the new, making
it easy to distinguish the two.

25 Timing belt renewal

4

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 
72 000 miles (120 000 km).

Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 2.

26 Manual transmission 

oil level check

2

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 
36 000 miles (60 000 km).
Note: A suitable square-section wrench may
be required to undo the transmission
filler/level plug on some models. These
wrenches can be obtained from most motor
factors or your Peugeot dealer.
Haynes Hint: It may be possible to use the
square end fitting on a ratchet handle (as
found in a typical socket set) to undo the
plug.
1 Park the car on a level surface. The oil level
must be checked before the car is driven, or
at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
switched off. If the oil level is checked
immediately after driving the car, some of the
oil will remain distributed around the
transmission components, resulting in an
inaccurate level reading.
2 Turn the steering wheel on full left-hand
lock, then where applicable remove the cover
for access to the left-hand side of the
transmission.
3 Wipe clean the area around the filler/level
plug, which is on the left-hand end of the
transmission. Unscrew the plug and clean it;
discard the sealing washer (see illustration).
4 The oil level should reach the lower edge of
the filler/level hole. A certain amount of oil will
have gathered behind the filler/level plug, and
will trickle out when it is removed; this does
not necessarily indicate that the level is

correct. To ensure that a true level is
established, wait until the initial trickle has
stopped, then add oil as necessary until a
trickle of new oil can be seen emerging (see
illustration). The level will be correct when
the flow ceases; use only good-quality oil of
the specified type.
5 Filling the transmission with oil is an
extremely awkward operation; above all, allow
plenty of time for the oil level to settle properly
before checking it. If a large amount had to be
added to the transmission, and a large
amount flows out on checking the level, refit
the filler/level plug and take the vehicle on a
short journey so that the new oil is distributed
fully around the transmission components,
then recheck the level when it has settled
again.
6 If the transmission has been overfilled so
that oil flows out as soon as the filler/level
plug is removed, first check that the car is
completely level (front-to-rear and side-to-
side), and allow any surplus oil to drain off into
a suitable container.
7 When the level is correct, fit a new sealing
washer to the filler/level plug. Refit the plug,
tightening it to the specified torque wrench
setting. Wash off any spilt oil then where
applicable refit the access cover.

27 Rear brake shoe check -

models with rear drum brakes

2

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 
36 000 miles (60 000 km).

Remove the rear brake drums, and check

the brake shoes for signs of wear or
contamination. At the same time, also inspect
the wheel cylinders for signs of leakage, and
the brake drum for signs of wear. Refer to the
relevant Sections of Chapter 9 for further
information.

28 Pollen filter renewal

1

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 
9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months.
1 On later models, a pollen filter is fitted.
2 Open the bonnet.
3 Release the securing clips, and withdraw
the plastic cover from the heater air inlet in the
passenger’s side of the scuttle at the rear of
the engine compartment.
4 Unclip the pollen filter from the heater air
inlet duct (see illustration).
5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

29 Emissions control 

systems check

2

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 
18 000 miles (30 000 km).
1 Details of the emission control system
components are given in Chapter 4D.
2 Checking consists simply of a visual check
for obvious signs of damaged or leaking
hoses and joints.
3 Detailed checking and testing of the
evaporative and/or exhaust emission systems
(as applicable) should be entrusted to a
Peugeot dealer.

30 Road test

1

Note: On models from 1994, the maker’s
specified interval for this procedure is 
18 000 miles (30 000 km).

Instruments 
and electrical equipment

1 Check the operation of all instruments and
electrical equipment.

36 000 Mile / 3 Year Service

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36 000 Mile / 3 Year Service

28.4  Removing the pollen filter from the

heater air intake duct

26.4  Toping-up the transmission oil level

26.3  Using a square-section  wrench to

unscrew the transmission filler/level plug

(MA transmission shown)

2 Make sure that all instruments read correctly,
and switch on all electrical equipment in turn, to
check that it functions properly.

Steering and suspension

3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
no unusual vibrations or noises.
5 Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering and driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

6 Check the performance of the engine, clutch
(where applicable), transmission and driveshafts.
7 Listen for any unusual noises from the
engine, clutch and transmission.
8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.
9 Check that, where applicable, the clutch
action is smooth and progressive, that the

drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal
travel is not excessive. Also listen for any
noises when the clutch pedal is depressed.
10 On manual transmission models, check
that all gears can be engaged smoothly
without noise, and that the gear lever action is
not abnormally vague or “notchy”.
11 On automatic transmission models, make
sure that all gearchanges occur smoothly,
without snatching, and without an increase in
engine speed between changes. Check that
all the gear positions can be selected with the
vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they
should be referred to a Peugeot dealer.
12 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from
the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven
slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock.
Carry out this check in both directions. If a
clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a
driveshaft joint, in which case the complete
driveshaft must be renewed (see Chapter 8).

Braking system

13 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to

one side when braking, and that the wheels
do not lock prematurely when braking hard.
14 Check that there is no vibration through
the steering when braking.
15 Check that the handbrake operates
correctly, without excessive movement of the
lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary
on a slope.
16 Test the operation of the brake servo unit
as follows. Depress the footbrake four or five
times to exhaust the vacuum, then start the
engine. As the engine starts, there should be a
noticeable “give” in the brake pedal as
vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for
at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If
the brake pedal is now depressed again, it
should be possible to detect a hiss from the
servo as the pedal is depressed. After about
four or five applications, no further hissing
should be heard, and the pedal should feel
considerably harder.

36 000 Mile / 3 Year Service  

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