Peugeot 405 Haynes (petrol). Manual - part 7

5 To separate the left-hand pedestal and
shaft, first unscrew the cylinder head cover
retaining stud from the top of the pedestal;
this can be achieved using a stud extractor, or
alternatively, by using two nuts locked
together. With the stud removed, unscrew the
grub screw from the top of the pedestal, and
carefully withdraw the rocker shaft (see
illustrations).

Camshaft

6 Remove the cylinder head as described in
Section 11.
7 With the head on a bench, remove the
locking pin, then remove the camshaft
sprocket as described in paragraphs 6 and 7
of Section 7.
8 Unbolt the housing from the left-hand end
of the cylinder head, then undo the retaining
bolt, and remove the camshaft thrust fork
from the cylinder head (see illustration).
9 Using a large flat-bladed screwdriver,
carefully prise the oil seal out of the right-
hand end of the cylinder head, then carefully
slide out the camshaft (see illustrations).
Discard the seal - a new one must be used on
refitting.

Inspection

Rocker arm assembly

10 Examine the rocker arm bearing surfaces
which contact the camshaft lobes for wear
ridges and scoring. Renew any rocker arms
on which these conditions are apparent. If a
rocker arm bearing surface is badly scored,
also examine the corresponding lobe on the
camshaft for wear, as it is likely that both will
be worn. Renew worn components as
necessary. The rocker arm assembly can be
dismantled as described in paragraphs 4 
and 5.
11 Inspect the ends of the (valve clearance)
adjusting screws for signs of wear or damage,
and renew as required.
12 If the rocker arm assembly has been
dismantled, examine the rocker arm and shaft
bearing surfaces for wear ridges and scoring.
If there are obvious signs of wear, the relevant
rocker arm(s) and/or the shaft must be
renewed.

Camshaft

13 Examine the camshaft bearing surfaces
and cam lobes for signs of wear ridges and
scoring. Renew the camshaft if any of these
conditions are apparent. Examine the condition
of the bearing surfaces, both on the camshaft
journals and in the cylinder head. If the head
bearing surfaces are worn excessively, the
cylinder head will need to be renewed. If the
necessary measuring equipment is available,
camshaft bearing journal wear can be checked
by direct measurement, noting that No 1
journal is at the transmission end of the head.
14 Examine the thrust fork for signs of wear
or scoring, and renew as necessary.

Refitting

Rocker arm assembly

15 If the rocker arm assembly was
dismantled, refit the rocker shaft to the left-
hand pedestal, aligning its locating hole with
the pedestal threaded hole. Refit the grub
screw, and tighten it securely. With the grub
screw in position, refit the cylinder head cover
mounting stud to the pedestal, and tighten it
securely. Apply a smear of clean engine oil to
the shaft, then slide on all removed
components, ensuring each is correctly fitted
in its original position. Once all components
are in position on the shaft, compress the
right-hand pedestal and refit the circlip.
Ensure that the circlip is correctly located in
its groove on the shaft.
16 Refit the cylinder head and rocker arm
assembly as described in Section 11.

Camshaft

17 Ensure that the cylinder head and
camshaft bearing surfaces are clean, then
liberally oil the camshaft bearings and lobes.
Slide the camshaft back into position in the
cylinder head. On carburettor engines, take
care that the fuel pump operating lever is not
trapped by the camshaft as it is slid into
position. To prevent this, remove the fuel
pump before refitting the camshaft, then refit
it afterwards.
18 Locate the thrust fork with the left-hand
end of the camshaft. Refit the fork retaining
bolt, tightening it to the specified torque
setting.
19 Ensure that the housing and cylinder head
mating surfaces are clean and dry, then apply
a smear of sealant to the housing mating
surface. Refit the housing to the left-hand end
of the head, and securely tighten its retaining
bolts.
20 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with
clean engine oil, then drive it into position until
it seats on its locating shoulder. Use a
suitable tubular drift, such as a socket, which
bears only on the hard outer edge of the seal.
Take care not to damage the seal lips during
fitting. Note that the seal lips should face
inwards.
21 Refit the camshaft sprocket as described
in paragraphs 17 to 19 of Section 7.
22 Refit the cylinder head as described in
Section 11.

TU engine in-car repair procedures  2A•9

10.8  Undo the retaining bolt, and remove

the camshaft thrust fork (arrowed) . . .

10.9b  . . . and slide out the camshaft

10.9a  . . . prise out the oil seal . . .

10.5b  . . . then remove the grub screw

10.5a  To remove the left-hand pedestal,

lock two nuts together 

and unscrew the stud . . .

2A

11 Cylinder head - 

removal and refitting

4

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
3 Remove the cylinder head cover and oil
baffle plate as described in Section 4.
4 Align the engine assembly/valve timing
holes as described in Section 3, and lock both
the camshaft sprocket and flywheel in
position. Do not attempt to rotate the engine
whilst the tools are in position.
5 Note that the following text assumes that
the cylinder head will be removed with both
inlet and exhaust manifolds attached; this is
easier, but makes it a bulky and heavy
assembly to handle. If it is wished to remove
the manifolds first, proceed as described in
the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
6 Working as described in the relevant Part of
Chapter 4, disconnect the exhaust system
front pipe from the manifold. Where fitted,
disconnect or release the lambda sensor
wiring, so that it is not strained by the weight
of the exhaust.
7 Remove the air cleaner housing and inlet
duct assembly as described in Chapter 4.
8 On carburettor engines, disconnect the
following from the carburettor and inlet
manifold as described in Chapter 4A:

a) Fuel feed hose from the pump and the

return hose from the anti-percolation
chamber (plug all openings, to prevent
loss of fuel and the entry of dirt into the
system).

b) Accelerator cable.
c) Choke cable.
d) Carburettor heating element and idle cut-

off solenoid wiring connector(s).

e) Vacuum servo unit vacuum hose, coolant

hose and all other relevant
breather/vacuum hoses from the
manifold.

9 On fuel injection engines, carry out the
following operations as described in the
relevant Part of Chapter 4:

a) Depressurise the fuel system, and

disconnect the fuel feed and return hoses
from the throttle body/fuel rail (plug all
openings, to prevent loss of fuel and entry
of dirt into the fuel system).

b) Disconnect the accelerator cable.
c) On single-point injection models,

disconnect the relevant electrical
connectors from the throttle body.

d) On multi-point injection models,

disconnect the relevant electrical
connectors from the throttle housing, fuel
injectors and (where necessary) the idle
speed auxiliary air valve.

e) Disconnect the vacuum servo unit hose,

coolant hose(s) and all the other
relevant/breather hoses from the
manifold.

10 Remove the centre timing belt cover as
described in Section 5.
11 Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley
retaining nut. Pivot the pulley in a clockwise
direction, using a suitable square-section key
fitted to the hole in the pulley hub, then
retighten the retaining nut.
12 Disengage the timing belt from the
camshaft sprocket, and position the belt clear
of the sprocket. Ensure that the belt is not
bent or twisted sharply.
13 Slacken the retaining clips, and
disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing (on the left-hand end of
the cylinder head).
14 Depress the retaining clip(s), and
disconnect the wiring connector(s) from the
electrical switch and/or sensor(s) which are
screwed into the thermostat housing/cylinder
head (as appropriate). Also where necessary,
release the TDC connector from its support
on the distributor bracket on the left-hand end
of the cylinder head.

Carburettor models

15 Disconnect the LT wiring connectors from
the distributor and HT coil. Release the TDC
sensor wiring connector from the side of the
coil mounting bracket, and disconnect the
vacuum pipe from the distributor vacuum
diaphragm unit. If the cylinder head is to be
dismantled for overhaul, remove the
distributor and ignition HT coil as described in
Chapter 5. If the cylinder numbers are not
already marked on the HT leads, number each
lead, to avoid the possibility of the leads being
incorrectly connected on refitting. Disconnect
the HT leads from the spark plugs, and
remove the distributor cap and lead
assembly.

Fuel-injected models

16 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
ignition HT coil. If the cylinder head is to be
dismantled for overhaul, remove the ignition
HT coil as described in Chapter 5. If the
cylinder numbers are not already marked on
the HT leads, number each lead, to avoid the
possibility of the leads being incorrectly
connected on refitting. Note that the HT leads
should be disconnected from the spark plugs
instead of the coil, and the coil and leads
removed as an assembly.

All models

17 Slacken and remove the bolt securing the
engine oil dipstick tube to the cylinder head.
18 Working in the reverse of the sequence
shown in illustration 11.38a, progressively
slacken the ten cylinder head bolts by half a
turn at a time, until all bolts can be unscrewed
by hand.
19 With all the cylinder head bolts removed,
lift the rocker arm assembly off the cylinder
head. Note the locating pins which are fitted
to the base of each rocker arm pedestal. If
any pin is a loose fit in the head or pedestal,
remove it for safe-keeping.
20 On engines with a cast-iron cylinder

block, lift the cylinder head away; seek
assistance if possible, as it is a heavy
assembly, especially if it is being removed
complete with the manifolds.
21 On engines with an aluminium cylinder
block, the joint between the cylinder head and
gasket and the cylinder block/crankcase must
now be broken without disturbing the wet
liners. To break the joint, obtain two L-shaped
metal bars which fit into the cylinder head bolt
holes. Gently “rock” the cylinder head free
towards the front of the car (see illustration).
Do not try to swivel the head on the cylinder
block/crankcase; it is located by dowels, as
well as by the tops of the liners. Note: If care
is not taken and the liners are moved, there is
also a possibility of the bottom seals being
disturbed, causing leakage after refitting the
head. When the joint is broken, lift the cylinder
head away; seek assistance if possible, as it is
a heavy assembly, especially if it is being
removed complete with the manifolds.
22 On all models, remove the gasket from
the top of the block, noting the two locating
dowels. If the locating dowels are a loose fit,
remove them and store them with the head for
safe-keeping. Do not discard the gasket - on
some models it will be needed for identifi-
cation purposes (see paragraphs 28 and 29).
Caution: On aluminium block engines, do
not attempt to rotate the crankshaft with
the cylinder head removed, otherwise the
wet liners may be displaced. Operations
that require the rotation of the crankshaft
(eg cleaning the piston crowns), should
only be carried out once the cylinder liners
are firmly clamped in position. In the
absence of the special Peugeot liner
clamps, the liners can be clamped in
position using large flat washers
positioned underneath suitable-length
bolts. Alternatively, the original head bolts
could be temporarily refitted, with suitable
spacers fitted to their shanks.
23 If the cylinder head is to be dismantled for
overhaul, remove the camshaft as described
in Section 10, then refer to Part C of this
Chapter.

Preparation for refitting

24 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block/crankcase must be perfectly
clean before refitting the head. Use a hard

2A•10 TU engine in-car repair procedures

11.21  Using two angled metal rods to free

the cylinder head from the block

plastic or wood scraper to remove all traces of
gasket and carbon; also clean the piston
crowns. Refer to paragraph 23 before turning
the crankshaft on aluminium block engines.
Take particular care during the cleaning
operations, as aluminium alloy is easily
damaged. Also, make sure that the carbon is
not allowed to enter the oil and water
passages - this is particularly important for the
lubrication system, as carbon could block the
oil supply to the engine’s components. Using
adhesive tape and paper, seal the water, oil
and bolt holes in the cylinder
block/crankcase. To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons and bores,
smear a little grease in the gap. After cleaning
each piston, use a small brush to remove all
traces of grease and carbon from the gap,
then wipe away the remainder with a clean
rag. Clean all the pistons in the same way.
25 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block/crankcase and the cylinder head for
nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If
slight, they may be removed carefully with a
file, but if excessive, machining may be the
only alternative to renewal.
26 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part C of this
Chapter if necessary.
27 When purchasing a new cylinder head
gasket, it is essential that a gasket of the
correct thickness is obtained. On some
models only one thickness of gasket is
available, so this is not a problem. However,
on all other models, there are two different
thicknesses available - the standard gasket
which is fitted at the factory, and a slightly
thicker “repair” gasket (+ 0.2 mm), for use
once the head gasket face has been
machined. If the cylinder head has been
machined, it should have the letter “R”
stamped adjacent to the No 3 exhaust port,
and the gasket should also have the letter “R”
stamped adjacent to No 3 cylinder on its front
upper face. The gaskets can also be identified
as described in the following paragraph, using
the cut-outs on the left-hand end of the
gasket.
28 With the gasket fitted the correct way up
on the cylinder block, there will be a single
cut-out, or no cut-out at all, at the rear of the

left-hand side of the gasket identifying the
engine type (ie. TU engine). In the centre of
the gasket there may be another series of
between 0 and 4 cut-outs, identifying the
manufacturer of the gasket and whether or
not it contains asbestos (these cut-outs are of
little importance). The important cut-out
location is at the front of the gasket; on the
standard gasket there will be no cut-out in this
position, whereas on the thicker “repair”
gasket there will be a single cut-out (see
illustration). Identify the gasket type, and
ensure that the new gasket obtained is of the
correct thickness. If there is any doubt as to
which gasket is fitted, take the old gasket
along to your Peugeot dealer, and have him
confirm the gasket type.
29 Check the condition of the cylinder head
bolts, and particularly their threads, whenever
they are removed. Wash the bolts in suitable
solvent, and wipe them dry. Check each for
any sign of visible wear or damage, renewing
any bolt if necessary. Measure the length of
each bolt, to check for stretching (although
this is not a conclusive test, in the event that
all ten bolts have stretched by the same
amount). Although Peugeot do not actually
specify that the bolts must be renewed, it is

strongly recommended that the bolts should
be renewed as a complete set whenever they
are disturbed.
30 On aluminium block engines, prior to
refitting the cylinder head, check the cylinder
liner protrusion as described in Part C of this
Chapter.

Refitting

31 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the
cylinder head and cylinder block/crankcase.
Check that the two locating dowels are in
position at each end of the cylinder
block/crankcase surface and, if necessary,
remove the cylinder liner clamps.
32 Position a new gasket on the cylinder
block/crankcase surface, ensuring that its
identification cut-outs are at the left-hand end
of the gasket (see illustration) and the
manufacturer’s name is uppermost.
33 Check that the flywheel and camshaft
sprocket are still correctly locked in position
with their respective tools then, with the aid of
an assistant, carefully refit the cylinder head
assembly to the block, aligning it with the
locating dowels (see illustration).
34 Ensure that the locating pins are in
position in the base of each rocker pedestal,
then refit the rocker arm assembly to the
cylinder head (see illustration).
35 Apply a smear of grease to the threads,
and to the underside of the heads, of the
cylinder head bolts. Peugeot recommend the
use of Molykote G Rapid Plus grease
(available from your Peugeot dealer - a sachet
is supplied with the top-end gasket set); in the
absence of the specified grease, a good-
quality high-melting-point grease may be
used.
36 Carefully enter each bolt into its relevant
hole (do not drop them in) and screw in, by
hand only, until finger-tight.
37 Working progressively and in the
sequence shown, tighten the cylinder head
bolts to their Stage 1 torque setting, using a
torque wrench and suitable socket (see
illustrations).
38 Once all the bolts have been tightened to
their Stage 1 setting, working again in the
given sequence, angle-tighten the bolts
through the specified Stage 2 angle, using a
socket and extension bar. It is recommended

TU engine in-car repair procedures  2A•11

11.33  . . . then lower the cylinder head 

into position . . .

11.34  . . . and refit the 

rocker arm assembly

A  Engine type identification cut-outs
B  Gasket manufacturer identification cut-outs
C  Gasket thickness identification cut-out

11.32  Locate the cylinder head gasket 

on the block . . .

11.28  TU engine series gasket markings

2A

that an angle-measuring gauge is used during
this stage of the tightening, to ensure
accuracy (see illustration). If a gauge is not
available, use white paint to make alignment
marks between the bolt head and cylinder
head prior to tightening; the marks can then
be used to check that the bolt has been
rotated through the correct angle during
tightening.
39 On cast-iron block engines, it will then be
necessary to tighten the bolts through the
specified Stage 3 angle setting.
40 With the cylinder head bolts correctly
tightened, refit the dipstick tube retaining bolt
and tighten it securely.
41 Refit the timing belt to the camshaft
sprocket. Ensure that the “front run” of the
belt is taut - ie, ensure that any slack is on the
tensioner pulley side of the belt. Do not twist
the belt sharply while refitting it, and ensure
that the belt teeth are seated centrally in the
sprockets.
42 Loosen the tensioner pulley retaining nut.
Pivot the pulley anti-clockwise to remove all
free play from the timing belt, then retighten
the nut.
43 Tension the belt as described under the
relevant sub-heading in Section 6, then refit
the centre and upper timing belt covers as
described in Section 5.

Carburettor models

44 If the head was stripped for overhaul, refit
the distributor and HT coil as described in
Chapter 5, ensuring that the HT leads are
correctly reconnected. If the head was not
stripped, reconnect the wiring connector and
vacuum pipe to the distributor, and the HT
lead to the coil; clip the TDC sensor wiring
connector onto the coil bracket.

Fuel-injected models

45 If the head was stripped for overhaul, refit
the ignition HT coil and leads as described in
Chapter 5, ensuring that the leads are
correctly reconnected. If the head was not
stripped, simply reconnect the wiring
connector to the HT coil.

All models

46 Reconnect the wiring connector(s) to the
coolant switch/sensor(s) on the left-hand end
of the head.

47 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the
thermostat housing, securely tightening their
retaining clips.
48 Working as described in the relevant Part
of Chapter 4, carry out the following tasks:

a) Refit all disturbed wiring, hoses and

control cable(s) to the inlet manifold and
fuel system components.

b) On carburettor models, reconnect and

adjust the choke and accelerator cables.

c) On fuel injection models, reconnect and

adjust the accelerator cable.

d) Reconnect the exhaust system front pipe

to the manifold. Where applicable,
reconnect the lambda sensor wiring
connector.

e) Refit the air cleaner housing and inlet

duct.

49 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve
clearances as described in Section 9.
50 On completion, reconnect the battery,
and refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.

12 Sump - removal and refitting

2

Removal

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
Disconnect the battery negative lead.

2 Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit the
engine oil drain plug, tightening it to the
specified torque. If the engine is nearing its
service interval when the oil and filter are due
for renewal, it is recommended that the filter is
also removed, and a new one fitted. After
reassembly, the engine can then be refilled
with fresh oil. Refer to Chapter 1 for further
information.
3 Remove the exhaust system front pipe as
described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
4 Progressively slacken and remove all the
sump retaining nuts and bolts. On cast-iron
block engines, it may be necessary to unbolt
the flywheel cover plate from the transmission
to gain access to the left-hand sump bolts.
5 Break the joint by striking the sump with the
palm of your hand, then lower the sump and
withdraw it from underneath the vehicle (see
illustration).
6 While the sump is removed, take the
opportunity to check the oil pump pick-
up/strainer for signs of clogging or splitting. If
necessary, remove the pump as described in
Section 13, and clean or renew the strainer.

Refitting

7 Clean all traces of sealant from the mating
surfaces of the cylinder block/crankcase and
sump, then use a clean rag to wipe out the
sump and the engine’s interior.
8 Ensure that the sump and cylinder
block/crankcase mating surfaces are clean
and dry, then apply a coating of suitable
sealant to the sump mating surface.
9 Offer up the sump, locating it on its
retaining studs, and refit its retaining nuts and
bolts. Tighten the nuts and bolts evenly and
progressively to the specified torque.
10 Refit the exhaust front pipe as described
in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
11 Replenish the engine oil (see Chapter 1).

13 Oil pump - removal,

inspection and refitting

3

Removal

1 Remove the sump (refer to Section 12).
2 Slacken and remove the three bolts

2A•12 TU engine in-car repair procedures

11.37a  Cylinder head bolt tightening

sequence

11.38  . . . then through the angle 

specified for stage 2

12.5  Slacken and remove the sump

retaining nuts and bolts, then remove 

the sump from the engine

11.37b  Working in the sequence shown,

tighten the head bolts first to the 

stage 1 torque setting . . .

securing the oil pump in position (see
illustration). Disengage the pump sprocket
from the chain, and remove the oil pump. If
the pump locating dowel is a loose fit, remove
and store it with the retaining bolts for safe-
keeping.

Inspection

3 Examine the oil pump sprocket for signs of
damage and wear such as chipped or missing
teeth. If the sprocket is worn, the pump
assembly must be renewed, as the sprocket is
not available separately. It is also
recommended that the chain and drive
sprocket, fitted to the crankshaft, is renewed at
the same time. On aluminium block engines,
renewal of the chain and drive sprocket is an
involved operation requiring the removal of the
main bearing ladder, and therefore cannot be
carried out with the engine still fitted to the
vehicle. On cast-iron block engines, the oil
pump drive sprocket and chain can be
removed with the engine in situ, once the
crankshaft sprocket has been removed and the
crankshaft oil seal housing has been unbolted.
Refer to Part D for further information.
4 Slacken and remove the bolts securing the
strainer cover to the pump body, then lift off
the strainer cover. Remove the relief valve
piston and spring (and guide pin - cast-iron
block engines only), noting which way round
they are fitted.
5 Examine the pump rotors and body for
signs of wear ridges and scoring. If worn, the
complete pump assembly must be renewed.
6 Examine the relief valve piston for signs of
wear or damage, and renew if necessary. The
condition of the relief valve spring can only be
measured by comparing it with a new one; if
there is any doubt about its condition, it
should also be renewed. Both the piston and
spring are available individually.
7 Thoroughly clean the oil pump strainer with
a suitable solvent, and check it for signs of
clogging or splitting. If the strainer is
damaged, the strainer and cover assembly
must be renewed.
8 Locate the relief valve spring, piston and
(where fitted) the guide pin in the strainer
cover, then refit the cover to the pump body.
Align the relief valve piston with its bore in the
pump. Refit the cover retaining bolts,
tightening them securely.

Refitting

9 Ensure that the locating dowel is in
position, then engage the pump sprocket with
its drive chain. Locate the pump on its dowel
and refit the pump retaining bolts, tightening
them to the specified torque setting.
10 Refit the sump as described in Section 12.

14 Crankshaft oil seals - renewal

4

Right-hand oil seal

1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and
flanged spacer as described in Section 7.
Secure the timing belt clear of the working
area, so that it cannot be contaminated with
oil. Make a note of the correct fitted depth of
the seal in its housing.
2 Punch or drill two small holes opposite
each other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping
screw into each, and pull on the screws with
pliers to extract the seal. Alternatively, the seal
can be levered out of position using a suitable
flat-bladed screwdriver, taking great care not
to damage the crankshaft shoulder or seal
housing (see illustration).
3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean
engine oil, and carefully locate the seal on the
end of the crankshaft. Note that its sealing lip
must face inwards. Take care not to damage
the seal lips during fitting.
5 Using a suitable tubular drift (such as a
socket) which bears only on the hard outer
edge of the seal, tap the seal into position, to
the same depth in the housing as the original
was prior to removal. The inner face of the
seal must end up flush with the inner wall of
the crankcase.
6 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the
crankshaft sprocket as described in Section 7.

Left-hand oil seal

7 Remove the flywheel (see Section 15).
8 Make a note of the correct fitted depth of
the seal in its housing. Punch or drill two small
holes opposite each other in the seal. Screw a

self-tapping screw into each, and pull on the
screws with pliers to extract the seal.
9 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
10 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with
clean engine oil, and carefully locate the seal
on the end of the crankshaft.
11 Using a suitable tubular drift, which bears
only on the hard outer edge of the seal, drive
the seal into position, to the same depth in the
housing as the original was prior to removal.
12 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the
flywheel as described in Section 15.

15 Flywheel - removal, inspection

and refitting

3

Removal

1 Remove the transmission (Chapter 7A),
then remove the clutch assembly (Chapter 6).
2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking
the ring gear teeth with a similar arrangement
to that shown in illustration 7.10. Alternatively,
bolt a strap between the flywheel and the
cylinder block/crankcase. Do not attempt to
lock the flywheel in position using the locking
pin described in Section 3.
3 Slacken and remove the flywheel retaining
bolts, and discard them; they must be
renewed whenever they are disturbed.
4 Remove the flywheel. Do not drop it, as it is
very heavy. If the locating dowel is a loose fit
in the crankshaft end, remove and store it with
the flywheel for safe-keeping.

Inspection

5 If the flywheel’s clutch mating surface is
deeply scored, cracked or otherwise
damaged, the flywheel must be renewed.
However, it may be possible to have it
surface-ground; seek the advice of a Peugeot
dealer or engine reconditioning specialist.
6 If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing
teeth, it must be renewed. This job is best left
to a Peugeot dealer or engine reconditioning
specialist. The temperature to which the new
ring gear must be heated for installation is
critical and, if not done accurately, the
hardness of the teeth will be destroyed.

Refitting

7 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel
and crankshaft. Remove any remaining
locking compound from the threads of the
crankshaft holes, using the correct-size tap, if
available.

TU engine in-car repair procedures  2A•13

14.2  Using a screwdriver to lever out the

crankshaft front oil seal

13.2  Oil pump is retained by three bolts

2A

If a suitable tap is not
available, cut two slots into
the threads of one of the old
flywheel bolts and use the

bolt to remove the locking compound
from the threads. 

8 If the new flywheel retaining bolts are not
supplied with their threads already pre-
coated, apply a suitable thread-locking
compound to the threads of each bolt.
9 Ensure that the locating dowel is in
position. Offer up the flywheel, locating it on
the dowel, and fit the new retaining bolts.
10 Lock the flywheel using the method
employed on dismantling, and tighten the
retaining bolts to the specified torque.
11 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6.
Remove the locking tool, and refit the
transmission as described in Chapter 7A.

16 Engine/transmission

mountings - inspection and
renewal

2

Inspection

1 If improved access is required, raise the
front of the car and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2 Check the mounting rubber to see if it is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal at any point; renew the mounting if any
such damage or deterioration is evident.
3 Check that all the mounting’s fasteners are
securely tightened; use a torque wrench to
check if possible.
4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar,
check for wear in the mounting by carefully
levering against it to check for free play.
Where this is not possible, enlist the aid of an
assistant to move the engine/transmission
back and forth, or from side to side, while you
watch the mounting. While some free play is
to be expected even from new components,
excessive wear should be obvious. If
excessive free play is found, check first that
the fasteners are correctly secured, then
renew any worn components as described
below.

Renewal

Right-hand mounting

5 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
6 Place a jack beneath the engine, with a
block of wood on the jack head. Raise the
jack until it is supporting the weight of the
engine.
7 Slacken and remove the three nuts
securing the right-hand engine mounting
upper bracket to the bracket on the cylinder
block. Remove the nut securing the bracket to
the mounting rubber, and lift off the bracket.
8 Lift the buffer plate off the mounting rubber
stud, then unscrew the mounting rubber from
the body.
9 Check carefully for signs of wear or damage
on all components, and renew them where
necessary.
10 On reassembly, securely tighten the
mounting rubber in the body.
11 Refit the buffer plate (where fitted) to the
mounting rubber stud, then install the
mounting bracket.
12 Tighten the mounting bracket retaining
nuts to the specified torque setting.
13 Remove the jack from underneath the
engine, and reconnect the battery negative
lead.

Left-hand mounting

14 Remove the battery and tray (Chapter 5A).
15 Place a jack beneath the transmission,
with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise
the jack until it is supporting the weight of the
transmission.
16 Slacken and remove the mounting
rubber’s centre nut, and two nuts, and remove
the mounting from the engine compartment.
17 If necessary, undo the two retaining bolts
and remove the mounting bracket from the
body. Disconnect the clutch cable from the
transmission (see Chapter 6) then unscrew
the retaining nuts and remove the bracket
from the top of the transmission.

18 Check carefully for signs of wear or
damage on all components, and renew them
where necessary.
19 Refit the bracket  to the transmission,
tightening its mounting nuts to the specified
torque. Reconnect the clutch cable and adjust
as described in Chapter 6. Refit the mounting
bracket to the vehicle body and tighten its
bolts to the specified torque.
20 Fit the mounting rubber to the bracket and
tighten its retaining nuts to the specified
torque. Refit the mounting centre nut, and
tighten it to the specified torque.
21 Remove the jack from underneath the
transmission, then refit the battery as
described in Chapter 5.

Rear mounting

22 If not already done, firmly apply the
handbrake, then jack up the front of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
23 Unscrew and remove the bolt securing
the rear mounting link to the mounting on the
rear of the cylinder block.
24 Remove the bolt securing the rear
mounting link to the bracket on the
underbody. Withdraw the link.
25 To remove the mounting assembly it will
first be necessary to remove the right-hand
driveshaft as described in Chapter 8.
26 With the driveshaft removed, undo the
retaining bolts and remove the mounting from
the rear of the cylinder block.
27 Check carefully for signs of wear or
damage on all components, and renew them
where necessary.
28 On reassembly, fit the rear mounting
assembly to the rear of the cylinder block, and
tighten its retaining bolts to the specified
torque. Refit the driveshaft (see Chapter 8).
29 Refit the rear mounting link, and tighten
both its bolts to their specified torque
settings.
30 Lower the vehicle to the ground.

2A•14 TU engine in-car repair procedures

2B

Engine (general)

Designation:

1580 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

XU5

1761 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

XU7

1905 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

XU9

1998 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

XU10

Bore:

1580 cc, 1761 cc and 1905 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

83.00 mm

1998 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

86.00 mm

Stroke:

1580 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

73.00 mm

1761 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

81.00 mm

1905 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

88.00 mm

1998 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

86.00 mm

Direction of crankshaft rotation  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Clockwise (viewed from the right-hand side of vehicle)

No 1 cylinder location  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

At the transmission end of block

Compression ratio (typical):

1580 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7.8 : 1 to 9.26 : 1 (according to model)

1761 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9.25 : 1

1905 cc 8-valve engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8.0 : 1 to 9.3 : 1 (according to model)

1905 cc 16-valve engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9.7 : 1 to 10.4 : 1 (according to model)

1998 cc 8-valve engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9.5 : 1

1998 cc 16-valve engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10.4 : 1

Chapter 2  Part B:
XU petrol engine in-car repair procedures

Camshaft and followers - removal, inspection and refitting  . . . . . . . .10
Camshaft oil seal(s) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Compression test  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Cylinder head - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Cylinder head cover - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Engine assembly/valve timing holes - 

general information and usage  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Engine oil level check  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly checks”

Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . .18
Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . .17
General information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Oil cooler - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Sump - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Timing belt - general information, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Timing belt covers - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - 

removal, inspection and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Valve clearances - checking and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

2B•1

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

Engine codes (UK models)*

1580 cc engine:

July 1987-on  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

B2A (XU52C/K)

July 1989-on  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

BDY (XU5M)

1993-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

BDY (XU5M3/L/Z)

February 1991 to January 1995  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

BDZ (XU5MZ)

1993-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

BFZ (XU5JP/L/Z)

1761 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

LFZ (XU7JP/L/Z)

1905 cc engine:

July 1987 to 1990 No 8274818  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

D2D (XU92C)

No 8274819-on  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

D2H (XU92C/K)

March 1988 to No 8274818  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

D5A (XU92CTR)

8274819-on  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

D5A (XU92C)

July 1990-on  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

D2H (XU92C)

July 1988-on  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

DDZ (XU9M)

July 1988-on  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

DKZ (XU9JAZ)

July 1987 to No 8274818  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

D6A (XU9J2)

1991-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

D6D (XU9J2)

1993-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

D6D (XU9J2/K)

February 1991 to October 1992  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

DFZ (XU9J1)

July 1987-on  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

D6C (XU9J4)

April 1988-on  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

DFW (XU9J4/Z)

1998 cc engine:

(1993-on)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

RFX (XU10J2C/L/Z)

(1993-on)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

RFY (XU10J4/L/Z)

Engine codes (Non-UK models)*

1580 cc engine:

July 1987-on  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

B1E (XU51C)

November 1987 to June 1988  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

B3B (XU51C)

July 1987 to June 1988 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

BAY (XU5CP)

July 1988-on  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

B5A (XU52C)

July 1988-on  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

B1E (XU51C)

1993-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

B2A (XU52C/K)

1993-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

B5A (XU52C/TR)

1993-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

BDY (XU5M3/L/Z)

1761 cc engine  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

LFZ (XU7JP/L/Z)

1905 cc engine:

July 1987-on  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

DFZ (XU9J1)

July 1987-on  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

D2C (XU92C)

July 1988-on  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

DFV (XU9J2)

July 1988-on  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

D5A (XU92C/TR)

1993-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

D2H (XU92C/K)

1991-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

D6D (XU9J2/K)

1998 cc engine;

1993-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

RFX (XU10J2C/L/Z)

1993-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

RFY (XU10J4/L/Z)

*The engine code is either stamped on a plate attached to the front left-hand end of the cylinder block on 1761 cc engines and stamped directly
onto the front face of the cylinder block (just to the left of the oil filter) on 1998 cc engines. This is the code most often used by Peugeot. The code
given in brackets is the factory identification number, and is not often referred to by Peugeot or this manual.

Camshaft

Drive

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Toothed belt

No of bearings  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

Camshaft bearing journal diameter (outside diameter):

1580 cc and 1905 cc models:

No 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

26.980 to 26.959 mm

No 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

27.480 to 27.459 mm

No 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

27.980 to 27.959 mm

No 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

28.480 to 28.459 mm

No 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

35.975 to 35.950 mm

1761 cc and 1998 cc models  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Not available

2B•2 XU engine in-car repair procedures