Peugeot 205. Manual - part 5

 

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Peugeot 205. Manual - part 5

 

 

Peugeot dealer, for diagnosis. On all single-
point fuel injection models, the idle speed and
mixture CO content is controlled by the
engine management ECU and cannot be
adjusted. If the idle speed and/or CO level is
incorrect, there is likely to be a fault in the
engine management system (see Chapter 4B).

Multi-point fuel injection models

Idle speed adjustment

21 Ensure that all electrical loads are
switched off. If the car does not have a
tachometer (rev counter), connect one to the
engine, following its manufacturer’s
instructions. Note the idle speed, and
compare it with that specified.
22 If adjustment is necessary, turn the air
screw (LE2-Jetronic) or idle speed adjustment
screw (LU2-Jetronic and Motronic M1.3) in
the throttle housing to obtain the specified
idling speed (see illustrations). If, on the LE2-
Jetronic system, the correct speed cannot be
obtained by means of the air screw, check
and adjust the throttle initial position as
described in Chapter 4C, Section 10.

Idle mixture CO level adjustment

Note: Adjustment of the idle mixture CO
content is only possible on the LE2-Jetronic
system. On The LU2-Jetronic and Motronic
M1.3 systems it is controlled by the fuel
injection system ECU.
23 The idle mixture (exhaust gas CO level) is
set at the factory, and should require no
further adjustment. If, due to a change in
engine characteristics (carbon build-up, bore
wear etc) or after a major overhaul, the
mixture setting is lost, it can be reset. Note,
however, that an exhaust gas analyser (CO
meter) will be required to check the mixture, in
order to set it with the necessary standard of
accuracy; if this is not available, the car must

be taken to a Peugeot dealer for the work to
be carried out.
24 If an exhaust gas analyser is available,
follow its manufacturer’s instructions to check
the exhaust gas CO level. If adjustment is
required, prise out the tamperproof cap on the
airflow sensor and use an Allen key to adjust
the mixture (see illustration). Turn the screw
in to richen the mixture and out to weaken it.
25 Blip the throttle two or three times and
then recheck that the idle speed and mixture
is correct.
26 When adjustments are complete,
disconnect the test equipment, and fit a new
tamperproof plug to the mixture adjustment
screw.

29 Emissions control systems

check

1

Details of the emissions control system
components are given in Chapter 4D.
Checking consists simply of a visual check
for obvious signs of damaged or leaking
hoses and joints. On engines incorporating a

breather filter in the oil filler cap, this should
be removed and cleaned, or renewed if it is
particularly contaminated.
Detailed checking and testing of the
evaporative and/or exhaust emissions
systems (as applicable) should be entrusted
to a Peugeot dealer.

30 Road test

1

Instruments and electrical
equipment

Check the operation of all instruments and
electrical equipment.
Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical
equipment in turn to check that it functions
properly.

Steering and suspension

Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
no unusual vibrations or noises.
Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering, or when driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

Check the performance of the engine,
clutch, transmission and driveshafts.
Listen for any unusual noises from the
engine, clutch and transmission.
Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years  

1•19

1

28.22a  Idle speed air screw adjustment on

the LE2-Jetronic fuel injection system

28.22b  Idle speed adjustment screw (7) on the LU2-Jetronic and

Motronic M1.3 fuel injection systems

28.24  Mixture adjustment screw (2)

Check that the clutch action is smooth and
progressive, that the drive is taken up
smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not
excessive. Also listen for any noises when the
clutch pedal is depressed.
10 Check that all gears can be engaged
smoothly, without noise, and that the gear
lever action is not abnormally vague or
“notchy”.
11 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from
the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven
slowly in a circle with the steering on full lock.
Carry out this check in both directions. If a
clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a

driveshaft joint, in which case, the complete
driveshaft must be renewed (see Chapter 8).

Check the operation and
performance of the braking
system

12 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to
one side when braking, and that the wheels
do not lock prematurely when braking hard.
13 Check that there is no vibration through
the steering when braking.
14 Check that the handbrake operates
correctly, without excessive movement of the
lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary
on a slope.

15 Test the operation of the brake servo unit
as follows. With the engine off, depress the
footbrake four or five times to exhaust the
vacuum. Start the engine, holding the brake
pedal depressed. As the engine starts, there
should be a noticeable “give” in the brake
pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine
to run for at least two minutes, and then
switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed
now, it should be possible to detect a hiss
from the servo as the pedal is depressed.
After about four or five applications, no further
hissing should be heard, and the pedal should
feel considerably firmer.

31 Timing belt renewal

3

Refer to Chapter 2B or 2C.

1•20

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

Every 36 000 miles or 3 years

32 Fuel filter renewal - fuel

injection models

2

WarningBefore carrying out the
following operation, refer to the
precautions given in “Safety
first!” at the beginning of this

manual, and follow them implicitly. Petrol
is a highly-dangerous and volatile liquid,
and the precautions necessary when
handling it cannot be overstressed.
The fuel filter is situated on the engine
compartment bulkhead. Before disconnecting
any of the hoses from the filter it will be

necessary to depressurise the fuel system
(see Chapter 4B or 4C).
To renew the fuel filter first disconnect the
fuel hose, or unscrew the union bolt from the
top of the unit then place the bolt, union and
washers to one side and cover to prevent
ingress of dirt (see illustration). Unscrew the
clamp bolt, then lift the filter and unscrew the
bottom union. Dispose safely of the old filter;
it will be highly inflammable, and may explode
if thrown on a fire.
Fit the new filter using a reversal of the
removal procedure; making sure that dust and
dirt is prevented from entering the fuel lines.
Start the engine and check the filter hose
union connections for leaks.

33 Coolant renewal

2

Cooling system draining

WarningWait until the engine is
cold before starting this
procedure. Do not allow
antifreeze to come in contact

with your skin, or with the painted surfaces
of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately
with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze
lying around in an open container, or in a
puddle in the driveway or on the garage
floor. Children and pets are attracted by its

sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal if
ingested.
With the engine completely cold, remove
the expansion tank filler cap. Turn the cap
anti-clockwise until it reaches the first stop.
Wait until any pressure remaining in the
system is released, then push the cap down,
turn it anti-clockwise to the second stop, and
lift it off.
Where fitted, unscrew the radiator filler cap
from the top left-hand side of the radiator.
Position a suitable container beneath the
coolant drain outlet at the lower left-hand side
of the radiator.
Unscrew the drain plug and allow the
coolant to drain into the container.

To assist draining, open the cooling system
bleed screws. These are located in the heater
matrix outlet hose union (to improve access, it
may be located in an extension hose) on the
engine compartment bulkhead, in the inlet
manifold coolant hose (XV, XW and XU series
engines) and on the top of the thermostat
housing (TU series engines) (see
illustrations)
.
When the flow of coolant stops, reposition
the container below the cylinder block drain
plug. On all engines except TU series, the
drain plug is located above the right-hand
driveshaft, or driveshaft intermediate bearing.
On TU series engines, the drain plug is
located at the front left-hand side of the
cylinder block.

Every 48 000 miles or 4 years

32.2  Fuel filter fuel hose and retaining

clamp locations

Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)

Remove the drain plug, and allow the
coolant to drain into the container.
If the coolant has been drained for a reason
other than renewal, then provided it is clean
and less than two years old, it can be re-used,
though this is not recommended.
Refit the radiator and cylinder block drain
plugs on completion of draining.

Cooling system flushing

10 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or
if the antifreeze mixture has become diluted,
then in time, the cooling system may gradually
lose efficiency, as the coolant passages
become restricted due to rust, scale deposits,
and other sediment. The cooling system
efficiency can be restored by flushing the
system clean.
11 The radiator should be flushed
independently of the engine, to avoid
unnecessary contamination.

Radiator flushing

12 To flush the radiator, first tighten the
radiator drain plug.
13 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses and
any other relevant hoses from the radiator,
with reference to Chapter 3.
14 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top

inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the
radiator, and continue flushing until clean
water emerges from the radiator bottom
outlet.
15 If after a reasonable period, the water still
does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed
with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is
important that their manufacturer’s
instructions are followed carefully. If the
contamination is particularly bad, insert the
hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and
reverse-flush the radiator.

Engine flushing

16 To flush the engine, first refit the cylinder
block drain plug, and tighten the cooling
system bleed screws.
17 Remove the thermostat as described in
Chapter 3, then temporarily refit the
thermostat cover.
18 With the top and bottom hoses
disconnected from the radiator, insert a
garden hose into the radiator top hose. Direct
a clean flow of water through the engine, and
continue flushing until clean water emerges
from the radiator bottom hose.
19 On completion of flushing, refit the
thermostat and reconnect the hoses with
reference to Chapter 3.

Cooling system filling

20 Before attempting to fill the cooling
system, make sure that all hoses and clips are
in good condition, and that the clips are tight.
Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used
all year round, to prevent corrosion of the
engine components (see following sub-
Section). Also check that the radiator and
cylinder block drain plugs are in place and
tight.
21 Remove the expansion tank filler cap.
22 Open all the cooling system bleed screws
(see paragraph 4).
23 Some of the cooling system hoses are
positioned at a higher level than the top of the
radiator expansion tank. It is therefore
necessary to use a “header tank” when
refilling the cooling system, to reduce the
possibility of air being trapped in the system.
Although Peugeot dealers use a special
header tank, the same effect can be achieved
by using a suitable bottle, with a seal between
the bottle and the expansion tank. On some
engines, the expansion bottle/tank can be
simply released from its normal location,
raised as high as possible and tied to the
bonnet to form the “header” tank.
24 Fit the “header tank” to the expansion
tank and slowly fill the system. Where the
radiator incorporates a filler cap, fill the
radiator first until it is overflowing, and refit the
filler cap (see illustration). Now, on all
models, slowly fill the “header” tank. Coolant
will emerge from each of the bleed screws in
turn, starting with the lowest screw. As soon
as coolant free from air bubbles emerges from
the lowest screw, tighten that screw, and
watch the next bleed screw in the system.
Repeat the procedure until the coolant is
emerging from the highest bleed screw in the
cooling system and all bleed screws are
securely tightened.
25 If a separate bottle is being used as the
“header tank”, ensure it is full (at least 0.5
litres of coolant). If the vehicle expansion
bottle/tank is being used as the “header” tank,
ensure it is filled to the “MAX” markings (see
illustration)
. Start the engine, and run it at a
fast idle speed (do not exceed 2000 rpm) until
the cooling fan cuts in, and then cuts out.
During this time, squeeze the top and bottom
radiator hoses to allow any trapped air to rise.

Every 2 years  

1•21

1

33.5a  Cooling system bleed screws may

be located in the heater hose . . .

33.5b  . . . in the inlet manifold coolant

hose . . .

33.5c  . . . or on the thermostat housing

(arrowed)

33.24  Fill the radiator through the filler (arrowed) on the left-hand side

Slacken and retighten the bleed screws to
allow any air that has risen to escape. Note:
Take great care not to scald yourself with the
hot coolant during this operation.
26 Stop the engine and allow it engine to
cool, then remove the “header tank” or refit
the expansion bottle/tank to its original
location.
27 When the engine has cooled, check the
coolant level with reference to Section 3 of
this Chapter. Top-up the level if necessary,
and refit the expansion tank cap.
Note: If, after draining and refilling the system,
symptoms of overheating are found which did
not occur previously, then the fault is almost
certainly due to trapped air at some point in
the system, causing an air-lock and restricting
the flow of coolant; usually, the air is trapped
because the system was refilled too quickly. In
some cases, air-locks can be released by
tapping or squeezing the various hoses. If the
problem persists, stop the engine and allow it
to cool down completely, before unscrewing
the expansion tank filler cap, slackening the
bleed screws, or disconnecting hoses to bleed
out the trapped air.

Antifreeze mixture

28 The antifreeze should always be renewed
at the specified intervals. This is necessary
not only to maintain the antifreeze properties,
but also to prevent corrosion which would
otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors
become progressively less effective.
29 Always use an ethylene-glycol based
antifreeze which is suitable for use in mixed-
metal cooling systems. The quantity of
antifreeze and levels of protection are
indicated in the Specifications.
30 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling
system should be completely drained,
preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for
condition and security.
31 After filling with antifreeze, a label should
be attached to the expansion tank, stating the
type and concentration of antifreeze used,
and the date installed. Any subsequent
topping-up should be made with the same
type and concentration of antifreeze.
32 Do not use engine antifreeze in the
windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will
cause damage to the vehicle paintwork. A
screenwash additive should be added to the
washer system in the quantities stated by the
makers.

34 Brake fluid renewal

2

WarningBrake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and damage
painted surfaces, so use
extreme caution when handling

and pouring it. Do not use fluid that has
been standing open for some time, as it
absorbs moisture from the air. Excess
moisture can cause a dangerous loss of
braking effectiveness.
The procedure is similar to that for the
bleeding of the hydraulic system as described
in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid
reservoir should be emptied by siphoning,
using a clean poultry baster or similar before
starting, and allowance should be made for
the old fluid to be expelled when bleeding a
section of the circuit.
Working as described in Chapter 9, open
the first bleed screw in the sequence, and
pump the brake pedal gently until nearly all
the old fluid has been emptied from the
master cylinder reservoir.

Top-up to the “MAX” level with new fluid,
and continue pumping until only the new fluid
remains in the reservoir, and new fluid can be
seen emerging from the bleed screw. Tighten
the screw, and top the reservoir level up to the
“MAX” level line.
Work through all the remaining bleed
screws in the sequence until new fluid can be
seen at all of them. Be careful to keep the
master cylinder reservoir topped-up to above
the “MIN” level at all times, or air may enter
the system and greatly increase the length of
the task.
When the operation is complete, check that
all bleed screws are securely tightened, and
that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off all
traces of spilt fluid, and recheck the master
cylinder reservoir fluid level.
Check the operation of the brakes before
taking the car on the road.

1•22

Every 2 years

33.25  Where possible, lift out the expansion bottle, suspend it from the bonnet to form a

“header” tank and fill to the “MAX” mark

Old hydraulic fluid is
invariably much darker in
colour than the new, making
it easy to distinguish the two.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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