Peugeot 205. Manual - part 4

the inner joint and attempting to rotate the
driveshaft. Any appreciable movement
indicates wear in the joints, wear in the
driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft
retaining nut.

25 Steering and suspension

check

2

Front suspension and steering
check

1 Apply the handbrake then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers and
the steering gear bellows for splits, chafing or
deterioration. Any wear of these components
will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt
and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration
of the balljoints or steering gear.
3 Check the power steering fluid hoses
(where applicable) for chafing or deterioration,
and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks.
Also check for signs of fluid leakage under
pressure from the steering gear rubber
bellows, which would indicate failed fluid
seals within the steering gear.
4 Check for signs of fluid leakage around the
suspension strut body, or from the rubber
boot around the piston rod (where fitted).
Should any fluid be noticed, the shock
absorber is defective internally, and renewal is
necessary.

5 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it (see
illustration). Very slight free play may be felt,
but if the movement is appreciable, further
investigation is necessary to determine the
source. Continue rocking the wheel while an
assistant depresses the footbrake. If the
movement is now eliminated or significantly
reduced, it is likely that the wheel bearings are
at fault. If the free play is still evident with the
footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the
suspension joints or mountings.
6 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3
o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before.
Any movement felt now may again be caused
by wear in the wheel bearings or the steering
track rod end balljoints. If the outer track rod
end is worn, the visual movement will be
obvious. If the inner joint is suspect, it can be
felt by placing a hand over the rack-and-pinion
rubber bellows, and gripping the track rod. If
the wheel is now rocked, movement will be felt
at the inner joint if wear has taken place.
7 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check
for wear in the suspension mounting bushes
by levering between the relevant suspension
component and its attachment point. Some
movement is to be expected as the mountings
are made of rubber, but excessive wear
should be obvious. Also check the condition
of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits,
cracks or contamination of the rubber.
8 With the vehicle standing on its wheels,
have an assistant turn the steering wheel
back-and-forth, about an eighth of a turn each
way. There should be very little, if any, lost
movement between the steering wheel and

roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely
observe the joints and mountings previously
described, but in addition, check the steering
column universal joints for wear, and also
check the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.
9 The efficiency of the shock absorber may
be checked by bouncing the car at each front
corner. Generally speaking, the body will
return to its normal position and stop after
being depressed. If it rises and returns on a
rebound, the shock absorber is probably
suspect. Examine also the shock absorber
upper and lower mountings for any signs of
wear or fluid leakage.

Rear suspension check

10 Chock the front wheels, then raise the rear
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
11 Check the rear hub bearings for wear,
using the method described for the front hub
bearings (paragraph 4).
12 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar,
check for wear in the suspension mounting
bushes by levering between the relevant
suspension component and its attachment
point. Some movement is to be expected as
the mountings are made of rubber, but
excessive wear should be obvious. Check the
condition of the shock absorbers as
described previously.

26 Air cleaner filter element

renewal

1

XV, XW and XY series engines

1 Unscrew the wing nut on the air cleaner
casing end-face (see illustration).
2 Withdraw the end cover with element (see
illustration).
3 Discard the element and wipe the casing
interior clean.
4 Fit the new element and the cover, tighten
the wing nut.

XU and TU series engines

4 Disconnect the air duct from the end of the
air cleaner.
5 Unscrew the nuts and remove the end (or
top) cover (see illustrations). On some types

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years  

1•15

1

25.5  Check for wear in the hub bearings

by grasping the wheel and trying to rock it

26.1  On XV, XW and XY series engines,

unscrew the wing nut on the air cleaner

cover . . .

26.2  . . . and remove the cover and filter

element

26.5a  On XU and TU series engines,

unscrew the nuts . . .

26.5b  . . . or release the spring clips . . .

of air cleaner, the end (or top) cover is
retained by a number of spring clips.
6 Extract the element (see illustration).
7 Discard the element and wipe the casing
interior clean.
8 Insert the new element then refit the end
cover and air duct. Ensure that the cover is
correctly seated, to prevent air leaks, before
fastening with the nuts or the clips.

27 Ignition system check

1

Warning: Voltages produced by
an electronic ignition system are
considerably higher than those
produced by conventional

ignition systems. Extreme care must be
taken when working on the system with
the ignition switched on. Persons with
surgically-implanted cardiac pacemaker
devices should keep well clear of the
ignition circuits, components and test
equipment.
1 The ignition system components should be
checked for damage or deterioration as
described under the relevant sub-heading.

Carburettor models

General component check

2 The spark plug (HT) leads should be
checked whenever new spark plugs are fitted.
3 Ensure that the leads are numbered before
removing them, to avoid confusion when
refitting (see Section 27). Pull the leads from
the plugs by gripping the end fitting, not the
lead, otherwise the lead connection may be
fractured.
4 Check inside the end fitting for signs of
corrosion, which will look like a white crusty
powder. Push the end fitting back onto the
spark plug, ensuring that it is a tight fit on the
plug. If not, remove the lead again and use
pliers to carefully crimp the metal connector
inside the end fitting until it fits securely on the
end of the spark plug.
5 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of
the lead to remove any built-up dirt and
grease. Once the lead is clean, check for
burns, cracks and other damage. Do not bend

the lead excessively, nor pull the lead
lengthways - the conductor inside might
break.
6 Disconnect the other end of the lead from
the distributor cap. Again, pull only on the end
fitting. Check for corrosion and a tight fit in the
same manner as the spark plug end. If an
ohmmeter is available, check the resistance of
the lead by connecting the meter between the
spark plug end of the lead and the segment
inside the distributor cap. Refit the lead
securely on completion.
7 Check the remaining leads one at a time, in
the same way.
8 If new spark plug (HT) leads are required,
purchase a set for your specific car and
engine.
9 Release the clips or unscrew its retaining
screws and remove the distributor cap. Wipe
it clean, and carefully inspect it inside and out
for signs of cracks, black carbon tracks
(tracking) and worn, burned or loose contacts;
check that the cap’s carbon brush is unworn,
free to move against spring pressure, and
making good contact with the rotor arm. Also
inspect the cap seal for signs of wear or
damage, and renew if necessary. Remove the
rotor arm from the distributor shaft and
inspect the rotor arm (see illustration). It is
common practice to renew the cap and rotor
arm whenever new spark plug (HT) leads are
fitted. When fitting a new cap, remove the
leads from the old cap one at a time, and fit
them to the new cap in the exact same
location - do not simultaneously remove all
the leads from the old cap, or firing order
confusion may occur. When refitting, ensure

that the arm is securely pressed onto the
shaft, and tighten the cap retaining screws
securely.
10 Even with the ignition system in first-class
condition, some engines may still occasionally
experience poor starting attributable to damp
ignition components. To disperse moisture, a
water-dispersant aerosol can be very
effective.

Ignition timing - check and
adjustment

11 Check the ignition timing as described in
Chapter 5B.

Fuel-injected models

General component check

12 On single-point fuel injection models,
carry out the checks described above in
paragraphs 3 to 8 noting that on some
models the HT leads are removed from the
ignition module, not the distributor cap. On
multi-point fuel injection models, carry out
the checks described above in paragraphs 3
to 10.

Ignition timing - check and
adjustment

13 Refer to Chapter 5B.

28 Idle speed and mixture

check and adjustment

3

1 Before checking the idle speed and mixture
setting, always check the following first:

a) Check the ignition timing (Chapter 5B).
b) Check that the spark plugs are in good

condition and correctly gapped (Sec-
tion 7).

c) Check that the throttle cable and, on

carburettor models, the choke cable
(where fitted) is correctly adjusted
(Section 8 and Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C).

d) Check that the crankcase breather hoses

are secure, with no leaks or kinks (Sec-
tion 29).

e) Check that the air cleaner filter element is

clean (Section 26).

f) Check that the exhaust system is in good

condition (Chapter 4D).

g) If the engine is running very roughly,

check the compression pressures and
valve clearances as described in Chapter
2A, 2B or 2C.

2 Take the car on a journey of sufficient
length to warm it up to normal operating
temperature. Proceed as described under the
relevant sub-heading. Note: Adjustment
should be completed within two minutes of
return, without stopping the engine. If this
cannot be achieved, or if the radiator electric
cooling fan operates, first wait for the cooling
fan to stop. Clear any excess fuel from the
inlet manifold by racing the engine two or
three times to between 2000 and 3000 rpm,
then allow it to idle again.

1•16

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

26.5c  . . . then lift off the top, or end cover

26.6  With the cover removed, withdraw

the filter element

27.9  Remove the rotor arm from the

distributor for inspection

Carburettor models

Idle speed adjustment - single
carburettor engines

3 Ensure that all electrical loads are switched
off and, where applicable, the choke is
pushed fully in; if the car does not have a
tachometer (rev counter), connect one to the
engine, following its manufacturer’s
instructions. Note the idle speed, and
compare it with that specified.
4 The idle speed adjusting screw is situated
in various locations according to carburettor
type (see illustrations). It may be necessary
to remove a retaining clip and plastic cover to
gain access to the carburettor. Using a
suitable flat-bladed screwdriver, turn the idle
speed screw in or out as necessary to obtain
the specified idling speed as given in the
Specifications.
5 If the idle mixture CO content is not to be
adjusted, switch off the engine, disconnect
any instruments and refit all disturbed
components.

Idle speed adjustment - twin
carburettor engines

6 On twin carburettor installations, it is
necessary to balance the carburettors so that
the airflow through both is the same before
adjusting the idling speed. To do this a
vacuum gauge or carburettor synchronising
tool will be required.
7 Ensure that all electrical loads are switched
off and, where applicable, the choke is
pushed fully in; if the car does not have a
tachometer (rev counter), connect one to the
engine, following its manufacturer’s
instructions. Note the idle speed, and
compare it with that specified.
8 Remove the air cleaner assembly as
described in Chapter 4A.
9 If a vacuum gauge is being used,
disconnect the vacuum pipe and connect the
gauge to the vacuum pipe stub on the left-
hand carburettor (see illustrations).

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years  

1•17

1

28.4a  Typical idle speed adjusting screw

location (A) on the Solex PBISA

carburettors

28.4b  Idle speed adjusting screw (1) and

mixture screw (2) location on the 

Solex 32-34 Z2 carburettors

28.4c  Idle speed adjusting screw location

(1) on the Weber 32 IBSH carburettors

28.4d  Idle speed adjusting screw location (1) on the Weber 36 TLC carburettors

28.9a  Adjustment points on the Solex twin carburettor installation

1 Mixture screw
2 Mixture screw
3 Idle speed screw

4 Vacuum pipe
5 Vacuum pipe
6 Synchronising screw

a Vacuum gauge pipe
b Vacuum gauge pipe

10 With the engine idling, turn the idle speed
screw on the interconnecting linkage as
necessary until the engine speed is 1000 rpm.
11 Note the reading on the vacuum gage,
then transfer the gauge pipe to the vacuum
pipe stub on the right-hand carburettor. If the
reading is not as previously recorded, turn the
synchronising screw on the linkage as
necessary until an identical reading is shown
on the gauge.
12 Blip the throttle once or twice and check
that both vacuum readings are as previously
indicated.
13 Reset the idle speed by means of the idle
speed screw to obtain the specified idling
speed.
14 If a vacuum gauge is not available a
carburettor synchronising tool available at
most motor stores can be used instead.
These instruments are basically airflow meters
and should show identical readings when
moved from one carburettor venturi to the
other. Adjust the airflow through the
carburettor, by means of the synchronising
screw, until both carburettors show the same
reading on the tool. When correct, reset the
idling speed by means of the idle speed screw
to obtain the specified speed. Note that if one
of these instruments is being used, it will not
be necessary to disconnect the carburettor
vacuum pipes.
15 If the idle mixture CO content is not to be
adjusted, switch off the engine, disconnect
the instruments and refit all disturbed
components.

Idle mixture CO level adjustment

16 The idle mixture (exhaust gas CO level) is
set at the factory, and should require no
further adjustment. If, due to a change in
engine characteristics (carbon build-up, bore
wear etc) or after a major carburettor
overhaul, the mixture setting is lost, it can be
reset. Note, however, that an exhaust gas
analyser (CO meter) will be required to check

the mixture, in order to set it with the
necessary standard of accuracy; if this is not
available, the car must be taken to a Peugeot
dealer for the work to be carried out.
17 If an exhaust gas analyser is available,
follow its manufacturer’s instructions to check
the exhaust gas CO level. If adjustment is
required, it is made by turning the mixture
adjustment screw as necessary. As with the
idle speed screw, the mixture adjusting screw
is situated in various locations according to
carburettor type (see illustrations).The screw
may also be covered with a tamperproof plug
to prevent unnecessary adjustment. If so, use
a sharp instrument to hook out the plug.
18 Using a suitable flat-bladed screwdriver,
turn the mixture adjustment screw (in very
small increments) until the CO level is correct.
Turning the screw in (clockwise) weakens the
mixture and reduces the CO level, turning it

out will richen the mixture and increase the
CO level. On twin carburettor installations turn
both mixture adjustment screws by equal
amounts when making the adjustments.
19 When adjustments are complete,
disconnect any test equipment, and fit a new
tamperproof plug to the mixture adjustment
screw. Recheck the idle speed and, if
necessary, readjust.

Single-point fuel injection
models

20 Experienced home mechanics with a
considerable amount of skill and equipment
(including a good-quality tachometer and a
good-quality, carefully-calibrated exhaust gas
analyser) may be able to check the exhaust
CO level and the idle speed. However, if these
are found to be in need of adjustment, the car
must be taken to a suitably-equipped

1•18

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

28.17a  Typical idle mixture adjusting

screw location (B) on the 

Solex PBISA carburettors

A and B Vacuum gauge pipe connections

28.17b  Idle mixture adjusting screw

location (2) on the 

Weber IBSH carburettors

28.17c  Idle mixture adjusting screw

location (2) on the 

Weber 36 TLC carburettors

28.9b  Adjustment points on the Weber twin carburettor installation

1 Mixture screw
2 Mixture screw

3 Idle speed screw
4 Vacuum pipe

5 Vacuum pipe
6 Synchronising screw