содержание .. 4 5 6 7 ..

Peugeot 205. Manual - part 6

Chapter 2 Part A:
XV, XW and XY engines in-car repair procedures

Engine general

Code and displacement:

XV8 (108C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

954 cc

XW7 (109F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1124 cc

XY7 (150D) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1360 cc

XY8 (150B) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1360 cc

Bore:

XV8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70.0 mm

XW7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

72.0 mm

XY7 and XY8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75.0 mm

Stroke:

XV8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

62.0 mm

XW7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

69.0 mm

XY7 and XY8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

77.0 mm

Compression ratio:

XV8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9.3 : 1

XW7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9.7 : 1

XY7 and XY8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9.7: 1

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Clockwise (viewed from right-hand side of vehicle)

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at flywheel end of engine)

Valve clearances (engine cold)

Pre-January 1987 models:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.10 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.25 mm

January 1987 on, from the following engine numbers:

XV8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

28401

XW7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

42460

XY7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

877201

XY8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

877001

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.15 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.30 mm

Oil pump

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.02 to 0.10 mm

Maximum lobe-to-body clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.064 mm

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Camshaft and rocker arms - removal, inspection and refitting  . . . . . 6
Compression test - description and interpretation  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Crankshaft oil seals - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Cylinder head - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal  . . . . . . . . 10
Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Engine oil level check  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly checks”
Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
General information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Timing chain, tensioner and sprockets - removal and refitting  . . . . . 4
Valve clearances - checking and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

2A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Torque wrench settings

lbf ft

Engine mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Oil pump screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Chain tensioner bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Timing chain cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Crankshaft pulley nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Rocker cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

General information

How to use this Chapter

This Part of Chapter 2 describes those

repair procedures that can reasonably be
carried out on the XV, XW and XY series
engines while they remain in the car. If the
engine has been removed from the car and is
being dismantled as described in Part D, any
preliminary dismantling procedures can be
ignored. Refer to Part B and C for information
on the XU series and TU series engines.

Part D describes the removal of the

engine/transmission from the vehicle, and the
full overhaul procedures that can then be
carried out.

Engine description

One of three different capacity engines in

this series may be fitted, the difference in
displacement being achieved by increasing
the bore and stroke. The engine, which has
four cylinders and an overhead camshaft, is
mounted transversely, driving the front
wheels, and it is inclined to the rear at an
angle of 72° from vertical.

The manual transmission is also mounted

transversely in line with and below the engine,
and the final drive to the roadwheels is via the
differential unit which is integral with the
transmission. Drive from the engine to the
transmission is by means of transfer gears
which are separately encased in the clutch
housing.

The crankcase, cylinder head, gearcase

and clutch housing are all manufactured from
aluminium alloy. Removable wet cylinder
liners are fitted; the aluminium pistons each
have two compression rings and one oil
control ring. The valves are operated by the
single overhead camshaft via rocker arms.
The camshaft drives the distributor at the
flywheel end. The timing sprocket, located at
the other end of the camshaft, incorporates a
separate eccentric lobe which actuates the
fuel pump. The timing chain is driven from the
crankshaft sprocket. Next to the timing chain

sprocket is the gearwheel which drives the oil
pump. This is mounted low down against the
crankcase face and is enclosed in the timing
chain cover.

The crankshaft runs in five shell type main

bearings and the endfloat is adjustable via a
pair of semi-circular thrustwashers.
Somewhat inconveniently, the lower half
crankcase interconnects the engine with the
transmission and limits the number of
operations that can be carried out with the
engine in the car. The engine and
transmissions share the same mountings. A
forced feed lubrication system is employed.
The oil pump is attached to the crankcase in
the lower section of the timing chest and it
incorporates the pressure relief valve. The
pump is driven by gears from the crankshaft.

Oil from the pump passes via an oilway to

the oil filter, and thence to the crankshaft main
bearings, connecting rod bearings and
transmission components. Another oilway
from the filter delivers oil to the overhead
camshaft and rocker components. Oil from
the cylinder head passes to the transfer gear
housing and then back to the sump contained
within the transmission housing.

Apart from the standard replaceable

canister filter located on the outside of the
crankcase there is a gauze filter incorporated
in the oil pump suction inlet within the
transmission casing.

Repair operations possible with
the engine in the car

The following work can be carried out with

the engine in the car:

a) Valve clearances - adjustment.
b) Compression pressure - testing.
c) Timing chain - removal and refitting.
d) Oil pump - removal, inspection and

refitting.

e) Camshaft and rocker arms - removal,

inspection and refitting.

f) Cylinder head - removal and refitting.
g) Cylinder head and pistons -

decarbonising.

h) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.
i) Flywheel - removal and refitting.
j) Engine mountings - inspection and

renewal.

Valve clearances - checking
and adjustment

Note: The valve clearances must be checked
and adjusted only when the engine is cold.
1 The importance of having the valve
clearances correctly adjusted cannot be
overstressed, as they vitally affect the
performance of the engine. If the clearances
are too big, the engine will be noisy
(characteristic rattling or tapping noises) and
engine efficiency will be reduced, as the
valves open too late and close too early. A
more serious problem arises if the clearances
are too small, however. If this is the case, the
valves may not close fully when the engine is
hot, resulting in serious damage to the engine
(eg. burnt valve seats and/or cylinder head
warping/cracking). The clearances are
checked and adjusted as follows.
2 Disconnect the spark plug HT leads and
remove the oil filler/crankcase ventilation cap
from the rocker cover.
3 Remove the rocker cover and then turn the
engine using a spanner on the crankshaft
pulley nut until the valves on No 1 cylinder are
rocking (ie inlet valve opening and exhaust
valve closing).

4 The rocker arm clearances of both valves of
No 4 cylinder can now be checked and, if
necessary, adjusted. Remember that No 1
cylinder is at the flywheel/clutch end of the
engine.
5 The feeler blade of the correct thickness is
inserted between the valve stem and rocker
arm. When the clearance is correctly set the
feeler blade should be a smooth stiff sliding fit
between the valve stem and rocker arm. The
correct valve clearances are given in the
Specifications at the start of this Chapter. The
valve locations can be determined from the
position of the manifolds. Note that engines
manufactured from January 1987, with

2A•2 XV, XW and XY series engine in-car repair procedures

Turning the engine will be
easier if the spark plugs are
removed first - see Chapter 1.

bi-metal rockers consisting of an aluminium
arm and steel pad, have different valve
clearances than earlier engines. Ensure that
the correct figures are used according to
engine type.
6 If the feeler blade is a tight or loose fit then
the clearance must be adjusted. To do this,
loosen the locknut of the adjustment stud and
screw the adjuster stud in or out until the
feeler blade can be felt to drag slightly when
drawn from the gap.
7 Hold the adjuster firmly in this position and
tighten the locknut. Recheck the gap on
completion to ensure that it has not altered
when locking the nut and stud (see
illustration).
8 Check each valve clearance in turn in the
following sequence remembering that the
clearances for inlet and exhaust valves are
different. The valves are numbered from the
flywheel end of the engine.

Valves rocking

Valves to adjust

1 In 2 Ex

7 In 8 Ex

5 In 6 Ex

3 In 4 Ex

7 In 8 Ex

1 In 2 Ex

3 In 4 Ex

5 In 6 Ex

9 Fit the rocker cover using a new gasket,
then refit the spark plugs, HT leads and oil
filler/crankcase ventilation cap.

Compression test -
description and interpretation

1 When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel systems, a compression
test can provide diagnostic clues as to the
engine’s condition. If the test is performed
regularly, it can give warning of trouble before
any other symptoms become apparent.
2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to
normal operating temperature, the battery
must be fully charged, and all the spark plugs
must be removed (Chapter 1). The aid of an
assistant will also be required.
3 Disable the ignition system by
disconnecting the ignition HT coil lead from
the distributor cap and earthing it on the
cylinder block. Use a jumper lead or similar
wire to make a good connection.
4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1
cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester
which screws into the plug thread is to be
preferred.
5 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open, and crank the engine on the starter
motor; after one or two revolutions, the
compression pressure should build up to a
maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record
the highest reading obtained.
6 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure in each.
7 All cylinders should produce very similar
pressures; a difference of more than 2 bars
between any two cylinders indicates a fault.

Note that the compression should build up
quickly in a healthy engine; low compression
on the first stroke, followed by gradually-
increasing pressure on successive strokes,
indicates worn piston rings. A low
compression reading on the first stroke, which
does not build up during successive strokes,
indicates leaking valves or a blown head
gasket (a cracked head could also be the
cause). Deposits on the undersides of the
valve heads can also cause low compression.
8 Although Peugeot do not specify exact
compression pressures, as a guide, any
cylinder pressure of below 10 bars can be

considered as less than healthy. Refer to a
Peugeot dealer or other specialist if in doubt
as to whether a particular pressure reading is
acceptable.
9 If the pressure in any cylinder is low, carry
out the following test to isolate the cause.
Introduce a teaspoonful of clean oil into that
cylinder through its spark plug hole, and
repeat the test.
10 If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear is responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
11 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders
is almost certainly due to the head gasket
having blown between them; the presence of
coolant in the engine oil will confirm this.
12 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower
than the others and the engine has a slightly
rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be the
cause.
13 If the compression reading is unusually
high, the combustion chambers are probably
coated with carbon deposits. If this is the
case, the cylinder head should be removed
and decarbonised.
14 On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the ignition system.

Timing chain, tensioner and
sprockets - removal and
refitting

Removal

1 Support the engine/transmission on a
trolley jack with a block of wood as an
insulator.
2 Release the nuts on the right-hand flexible
engine mounting at the base of the timing
chain cover.
3 Raise the engine just enough to clear the
side-member and anti-roll bar.
4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1, and the fuel pump as described
in Chapter 4A.
5 Unscrew and remove the crankshaft pulley
nut. To do this the crankshaft must be held
against rotation by jamming the starter ring
gear. Remove the starter, as described in
Chapter 5A. Alternatively, if an assistant is
available, apply the brakes fully with a gear
engaged. Withdraw the pulley.
6 Unbolt and remove the rocker cover, and
disconnect the spark plug HT leads.
7 Unscrew and remove the timing chain
cover bolts. Take off the cover and extract the
fuel pump operating rod.
8 Turn the crankshaft either by temporarily
refitting the pulley nut or by engaging a gear
and turning a front wheel (raised) until the
timing marks are located in the following
positions. Camshaft sprocket mark between
two bright links on chain. Crankshaft sprocket
mark opposite centre of single bright link (see
illustration).

XV, XW and XY series engine in-car repair procedures 2A•3

2.7 Adjusting the valve clearances

4.8 Sprocket timing marks and timing

chain bright links aligned

Camshaft sprocket timing mark

Crankshaft sprocket timing mark

9 Remove the crankshaft oil pump drivegear
and its Woodruff key.
10 Unbolt the oil pump. Some
socket-headed screws are accessible through
the holes in the driven gear (see illustration).
Lift off the pump and spacer plate (see
illustration).
11 Jam the camshaft sprocket and unscrew
the sprocket retaining bolt. Take off the fuel
pump operating eccentric.
12 Turn the lock on the chain tensioner
anti-clockwise to lock it in its retracted state
(see illustration).
13 Remove the camshaft sprocket with
timing chain.
14 Thoroughly clean all the removed
components ensuring that all traces of old

gasket are removed from the timing cover,
rocker cover and engine mating faces.
15 Examine the teeth of both sprockets for
wear. Each tooth on a sprocket is an inverted
V-shape and wear is apparent when one side
of the tooth becomes more concave in shape
than the other. When badly worn, the teeth
become hoop-shaped and the sprockets
must be renewed. The crankshaft sprocket
and oil pump drive gear are removed by
sliding them off the crankshaft with their
Woodruff keys.
16 If the sprockets need to be renewed then
the chain will have worn also and should also
be renewed. If the sprockets are satisfactory,
examine the chain and look for play between
the links. When the chain is held out
horizontally, it should not bend appreciably.
Remember, a chain is only as strong as its
weakest link and, being a relatively cheap
item, it is worthwhile fitting a replacement
anyway.
17 Check the condition of the tensioner
slipper. If it is worn, renew it; it is held in
position by two bolts. If the tensioner is
removed, note the fine mesh filter screen
located behind the tensioner body. Ensure
that it is clean and in place when refitting the
tensioner.
18 Inspect the oil pump drive gears for wear

or damage and renew if necessary. Always fit
a new timing cover oil seal (see Section 8).

Refitting

19 Check that the crankshaft is positioned
correctly by observing the crankshaft
sprocket keyway which should be in
alignment with the crankcase joint (see
illustration 4.8). Turn the crankshaft if
necessary to bring it to the correct position.
Temporarily fit the camshaft sprocket and
rotate the camshaft until the keyway is also
positioned as shown.
20 Engage the chain around the crankshaft
sprocket so that the timing mark on the
sprocket is in the centre of the single bright
link on the chain (see illustration).
21 Now engage the upper loop of the chain
over the camshaft sprocket so that the timing
mark is between the two bright links on the
chain (see illustration).
22 Now offer the camshaft sprocket to the
shaft. Adjust the position of the camshaft so
that the sprocket keyway aligns with the key.
23 Push the camshaft sprocket into position.
Insert and tighten its retaining bolt with the
fuel pump eccentric correctly located (see
illustration).

2A•4 XV, XW and XY series engine in-car repair procedures

4.12 Timing chain tensioner lock (2)

Turn in direction of arrow to release slipper -

turn in opposite direction to retract slipper

4.10b Removing the oil pump and spacer

plate

4.10a Removing oil pump screw with Allen

key

4.20 Timing chain bright link (arrowed) positioned over crankshaft

sprocket timing mark

4.21 Camshaft sprocket timing mark positioned between two

bright links (arrowed) on chain

содержание .. 4 5 6 7 ..