Content .. 23 24 25 26 ..

Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, Plymouth Breeze Haynes. Manual - part 25

7B-6

Chapter

Part

B Automatic

transaxle

7.10a Depress the interlock cable retaining clip .. .

7.10b . . . then withdraw it from the ignition lock cylinder housing

cylinder housing (see illustrations).
11

Detach the interlock cable from the rout-

ing clip and remove it from the vehicle.
12

To install the interlock cable, turn the

ignition switch to the RUN position and insert
the cable end into the ignition lock cylinder
and make sure it snaps into place.
13

Then, route it down the steering column,

secure it with the retaining clip and continue
down to the gearshift assembly.
14

Attach the interlock cable to the

gearshift lever cam (see illustration 7.8).
15

Next, push the cable housing into the

groove in the gearshift assembly base. The
cable housing is fully seated when it snaps
into place (see illustration 7.7).
16

Adjust the interlock cable (see below).

17 Install the steering column covers and
the center console (see Chapter 11).

Adjustment

Refer to illustration 7.21

Disconnect the negative cable from the

remote battery terminal.
19

Remove the center console (see Chap-

ter 11).
20

Remove the ignition key from the lock

cylinder with the switch in the Lock position.

Make sure the gearshift lever is in the PARK
position.

When the adjustment nut on the inter-

lock lever is loosened, the cable automati-

cally indexes itself to the correct position.

Loosen the adjustment nut and allow the

cable to index itself (see illustration). After
the cable has found its position, tighten the
adjusting nut.
22

With the ignition in the OFF (locked)

position, the gearshift lever should be locked
in the PARK position. If the gearshift lever can
be moved to select another gear position,
inspect the cable for binding, proper installa-
tion and repeat the adjustment procedure.
23

Next, place the ignition key in the RUN

position (engine OFF). Move the gearshift
lever to the REVERSE position. You should
be unable to remove the key from the ignition
lock cylinder. If the key can be removed,
inspect the cable for binding, proper installa-
tion and repeat the adjustment procedure.
24

After adjustment, install the center con -

sole (see Chapter 11) and attach the negative
cable to the remote battery terminal.

Transmission Control Module

(TCM) - removal and installation

Note: Do not interchange TCM's from differ-

ent year vehicles. After replacing a TCM take
the vehicle to your local dealer service
department or other qualified transmission
shop to have the TCM calibrated for your
vehicle.
Caution: The TCM is an Electro-Static Dis-
charge (ESD) sensitive electronic device,
meaning a static electricity discharge from

your body could possibly damage electrical

components. Make sure to properly ground

yourself and the TCM before handling it.
Avoid touching the electrical terminals of the

TCM unless absolutely necessary.

Removal

Refer to illustration 8.3
1

Disconnect the negative cable from the

remote battery terminal.
2

On 2.4L engines, remove the air cleaner

assembly (see Chapter 4).
3

Detach the electrical connector from the

TCM (see illustration).

Remove the 3 mounting screws and

withdraw the TCM from the vehicle.

Installation

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Automatic transaxle - removal
and installation

Removal

Refer to illustrations 9.18, 9.19, 9.20, 9.21,

9.24 and 9.34

Open the hood and place protective

covers on the front fenders and cowl. Special

fender covers are available, but an old bed-

spread or blankets will also work.
2

Disconnect the negative cable from the

remote battery terminal.

Remove the air cleaner assembly (see

Chapter 4).

Remove the Transmission Control Mod-

ule (see Section 8).

Remove the shift cable and bracket

from the transaxle (see Section 4).
6

Disconnect and plug the transaxle oil

cooler lines and position them out of the way.
7

Loosen the driveaxle hub nuts (see

Chapter 8) and front wheel lug nuts. Raise the
vehicle and place it securely on jackstands.

7.21 Loosening the interlock cable

adjusting nut (arrow)

8.3 Transmission Control Module

(TCM) (arrow)

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

7B-7

9.18 Removing a lateral strut bracket

Remove both front wheels.

Drain the transaxle fluid (see Chapter 1).

Remove the driveaxles (see Chapter 8).

Remove the splash shield/battery cover

from the left front wheel well (see Chapter 5 if

necessary).
11

Remove the accessory drivebelt splash

shield from the right front wheel well (see

Chapter 1 if necessary).
12

Remove the transaxle dipstick tube. To

prevent foreign debris from entering the

transaxle, cover the dipstick tube hole in the
transaxle with duct tape or equivalent.

On 2.5L engines, remove the exhaust

manifold cross-over pipe (see Chapter 2B if
necessary).
14

Remove the engine oil filter (see Chap-

ter 1 if necessary).

Remove the starter motor (see Chap-

ter 5).

Disconnect the exhaust system from the

rear exhaust manifold and position it out of
the way (see Chapter 4). Note: It may be nec-

essary to remove, or partially remove, the
exhaust system to accomplish this.

On 1997 and 1998 models equipped

with 2.4L engines, remove the oil pan-to-
transaxle structural collar (see Chapter 2A,
Section 13).
18

Remove the lateral strut brackets con-

necting the engine to transaxle (see illustra-
tion).
19

Remove the bellhousing lower cover

(see illustration).
20 If the torque converter is to be rein-
stalled, match-mark it to the driveplate (see
illustration).
21

Remove the four torque converter-to-

driveplate bolts (see illustration). To gain
access to each bolt, rotate the engine clock-
wise (ONLY) as viewed from the drivebelt end
of

the

engine

using

the

crankshaft

damper/pulley bolt. Use a screwdriver placed

n the ring gear of the driveplate to keep the

crankshaft from turning during removal of the
bolts.
22

After removing the torque converter-to-

driveplate bolts, push the torque converter

into the transaxle bellhousing as far as possi-

ble.

9.19 Removing the bellhousing

lower cover

On 2.5L engines, remove the crankshaft

position sensor (see Chapter 6).

Clearly label and detach the electrical

connectors from the transaxle and position
them out of the way (see illustration).
25

Match-mark the front suspension cross-

member to the body and frame so it can be
reinstalled in the same position to maintain
proper wheel alignment (see Chapter 10,
Section 17).

Remove the front stabilizer-to-frame

clamps.

Support the engine from above with a

hoist, or place a floor jack under the oil pan.
Place a wood block on the jack head to
spread the load on the oil pan.
28

Loosen (ONLY) the right side steering

gear bolts and front suspension crossmem-
ber bolts (see Chapter 10 if necessary).
29

Remove the left side steering gear and

front suspension crossmember bolts (see

Chapter 10 if necessary).
30

Remove the left engine mounting

bracket from the transaxle (see the appropri-
ate Part of Chapter 2).
31

Remove the front engine mounting

bracket and strut (see the appropriate Part of
Chapter 2).
32

Remove the rear engine mounting

bracket (see the appropriate Part of Chap-

ter 2).

Remove the engine support module

9.20 Before removing the driveplate-to-

torque converter bolts, find a hole in the

drive plate and match-mark the torque

converter to the driveplate

(1995 to 1997 models) or front and rear lower
engine mounts (1998 and later models) as
applicable (see the appropriate Part of Chap-
ter 2). Note: The engine support module is
attached to the lower radiator support. When
removing the engine support module, the
radiator and air conditioning condenser (if
equipped) must be supported.
34

Support the transaxle with a transmis-

Removing the driveplate-to-torque

converter bolts

9.24 41TE transaxle

electrical connections

Solenoid pack
connector

Input speed sensor

Transmission range

sensor (white)

Park/Neutral/Back-
up light switch

(black)

Output speed sensor

7B-8

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

sion jack, if available, or use a floor jack (see

illustration). Secure the transaxle to the jack
using straps or chains so it doesn't fall off

during removal.
35

Remove the transaxle bellhousing-to-

engine bolts. Make sure all bellhousing-to-
engine bolts are removed.
36

Make a final check that all wires, hoses

and brackets have been disconnected from
the transaxle, then with the engine properly
supported, move the front suspension cross-

member rearward and carefully lower the

transaxle from the vehicle.
37

Make sure you keep the transaxle level

as you maneuver it or the torque converter

may fall out. Note: Reinstalling the bellhous-

ing lower cover after the transaxle clears the
driveplate will help hold the torque converter
in place.
38

Remove the torque converter from the

transaxle.
39

With the transaxle removed, now it a

good time to inspect the engine rear main oil
seal for leakage and replace if necessary (see
the appropriate Part of Chapter 2). Also
inspect the transaxle oil pump seal and
replace if necessary (see Section 3).

Installation

40 Install the torque converter onto the
transaxle input shaft. Handle it carefully to
avoid damaging the transaxle input shaft
seal. Make sure the torque converter hub
splines are properly engaged with the splines
on the transaxle input shaft. Note: If rein-
stalling the old torque converter, position it so
the match-mark applied in Step 20 will corre-
spond with the mark on the driveplate.
41

With the transaxle secured to the jack,

raise it into position and carefully slide it for-
ward until the transaxle bellhousing seats
against the engine. Do not use excessive
force to install the transaxle - if it doesn't
slide into place easily, readjust the angle of
the transaxle and try again. Make sure you
keep the transaxle level as you maneuver it or
the torque converter may fall out. Do not
force it or use the bellhousing bolts to pull it
together. Make sure the dowel pins on the
engine are aligned with their respective holes
in the transaxle. If you are experiencing diffi-
culty, solicit the aid of an assistant.
42 Install the bellhousing-to-engine bolts
with brackets and clamps where required
and tighten them to the torque listed in this
Chapter's Specification Section.
43 Install the engine support module (1995
to 1997 models) or front and rear lower engine
mounts (1998 and later models) as applicable
(see the appropriate Part of Chapter 2).
44 Install the left side steering gear and
front suspension crossmember attaching
bolts. Align the front suspension crossmem-
ber with the match-marks applied in Step 25
(see Chapter 10 if necessary). Tighten the
steering gear and crossmember bolts to their
respective torque values given in the Specifi -

cation Section of Chapter 10.
45

Position the front stabilizer bar against

the front suspension crossmember and
secure it with the retaining clamps. Tighten
the stabilizer bar clamp bolts to the torque
given in the Specification Section of Chap-
ter 10.
46 Install the rear engine mounting bracket
to the transaxle and secure it to the engine
support module (1995 to 1997 models) or
rear lower engine mount (1998 models) as
applicable (see the appropriate Part of Chap-
ter 2). Tighten the bracket-to-engine bolts
(ONLY) to the torque listed in the Specifica-
tion Section in the appropriate Part of Chap-
ter 2. Leave the through-bolt loose for now.
47 Install the front engine mounting bracket
and strut (see the appropriate Part of Chapter
2). Note: On 1998 models equipped with 2.4L
engines, the front engine mounting bracket

and strut are tightened in sequence with the

oil pan-to-transaxle structural collar, refer to
Chapter 2A, Section 13. Secure the bracket
to the engine support module (1995 to 1997
models) or front lower engine mount (1998
models) as applicable (see the appropriate
Part of Chapter 2). Tighten the mounting
bracket and strut-to-engineltransaxle bolts
(ONLY) to the torque listed in the Specifica-

tion Section in the appropriate Part of Chap-

ter 2. Leave the through-bolt loose for now.
48 Install the left engine mounting bracket
onto the transaxle and secure it to the sup-
port assembly on the frame rail (see the
appropriate Part of Chapter 2). Tighten the
bolts to the torque listed in the Specification
Section in the appropriate Part of Chapter 2.
49

Tighten the front and rear engine mount

through-bolts to the torque listed in the

Specification Section in the appropriate Part
of Chapter 2.
50

Remove the engine and transaxle sup-

port jacks.
51

If you're reinstalling the old torque con-

verter, align the driveplate-to-torque con-

verter match-marks applied in Step 20. Install

the four driveplate-to-torque converter bolts.
To gain access to each bolt hole, rotate the

engine clockwise (ONLY) as viewed from the
drivebelt end of the engine using the
crankshaft damper/pulley bolt. Tighten the
driveplate-to-torque converter bolts to the

torque listed in this Chapter's Specification
Section. Use a screwdriver placed in the ring

gear of the driveplate to keep the crankshaft

from turning during installation of the bolts.
52 Install the bellhousing lower cover.
Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this

Chapter's Specification Section.

53 Install the lateral strut brackets (see

illustration 9.18). Tighten the bolts to the

torque listed in this Chapter's Specification
Section.
54

On 1997 and later models equipped

with 2.4L engines, install the oil pan-to-
transaxle structural collar. Tighten the bolts
to the torque listed in the Specification Sec -

9.34 Using a transmission jack to remove

the transaxle

tion of Chapter 2A.
55

Attach the electrical connectors to the

transaxle (see illustration 9.24).
56

On 2.5L engines, install the crankshaft

position sensor, attach the electrical connec-

tor and tighten the retaining bolt to the torque
given in the Specification Section of Chap-
ter 6.
57

On 2.5L engines, install the exhaust

manifold cross-over pipe. Tighten the nuts to
the torque given in the Specification Section
of Chapter 2B.
58

Attach the exhaust system to the

exhaust manifold (see Chapter 4). Tighten the
nuts to the torque given in the Specification
Section of Chapter 4.
59 Install the transaxle dipstick tube.
60 Install the transaxle splash shield and
secure it with the 2 push-in fasteners.
61

Install the splash shield/battery cover

into the left front wheel well (see Chapter 5 if
necessary).
62 Install the starter motor (see Chapter 5).
Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in the
Specification Section of Chapter 5.
63 Install the engine oil filter (see Chap-
ter 1).
64 Install the driveaxles, hub nuts and front
wheels (see Chapter 8). Tighten all fasteners
to the torque values given in the Specification
Section of Chapter 8.
65 Install the shift cable and mounting
bracket onto the transaxle (see Section 4).
66 Install the transaxle oil cooler lines onto
the fittings and tighten the clamps securely.
67 Install the Transmission Control Module
(see Section 8).
68

Attach the negative cable to the remote

battery terminal.
69 Install the air cleaner assembly (see
Chapter 4).
70

Fill the transaxle with the appropriate

fluid (see Chapter 1).
71

Check the shift cable operation and

adjust if necessary (see Section 4).
72

Road test the vehicle and check for

proper transaxle operation and fluid leaks.
Shutoff the engine and recheck the transaxle
fluid level.

Chapter 8

Clutch and driveaxles

Contents

Section

Clutch - description and check ..............................................................2
Clutch cable - removal and installation ..................................................3
Clutch release bearing and lever - removal, inspection

and installation..................................................................................5

Clutch start switch - check and replacement ........................................6

Driveaxle boot check ........................................................ See Chapter 1
Driveaxle boot replacement ...................................................................9

Section

Driveaxle oil seal - replacement..................................... See Chapter 7A
Driveaxle - removal and installation .......................................................8
Driveaxles - general information and inspection ....................................7
Driveplate - removal and installation .............................. See Chapter 2A
General information................................................................................1
Modular clutch assembly - removal, inspection and installation ...

Specifications

Torque specifications

Ft-lbs

Driveplate-to-modular clutch assembly bolts..................................................55
Driveplate-to-crankshaft bolts ......................................................................... See Chapter 2
Driveaxle/hub nut

1995 through 1999 ......................................................................................180
2000............................................................................................................ 142

Wheel lug nuts..................................................................................................110

General information

The information in this Chapter deals

with the components from the rear of the
engine to the front wheels, except for the

transaxle, which is covered with in Chapter 7.

For the purposes of this Chapter, these com-
ponents are grouped into two categories:
Clutch and driveaxles. Separate Sections

within this Chapter offer general descriptions
and checking procedures for both groups.

Since nearly all the procedures covered

in this Chapter involve working under the

vehicle, make sure it's securely supported on
sturdy jackstands or a hoist where the vehicle
can be easily raised and lowered.

Clutch - description and check

All vehicles with a manual transaxle use

a single dry plate, diaphragm spring type
modular clutch assembly. The modular clutch
assembly works like a traditional clutch

except that it has no serviceable parts. The
flywheel, clutch friction disc and pressure
plate are all in one unit which mounts to the
driveplate at the rear of the engine. When a
clutch failure occurs, the modular clutch
assembly must be replaced with a new unit.
2

The clutch friction disc is compressed

between two plates inside the modular clutch
assembly by an internal one-piece diaphragm
spring with multiple release fingers.
3

The clutch release system is cable-actu-

ated. The system consists of the clutch
pedal, the cable, a clutch release lever and

the clutch release (or throw-out) bearing. The

clutch cable on these models is self-adjusting
and requires no routine maintenance or
adjustment.

When pressure is applied to the clutch

pedal to release the clutch, the cable moves

the release lever, which pivots, moving the

release bearing. The bearing pushes against

the fingers of the diaphragm spring of the
modular clutch assembly, which in turn
allows the clutch friction disc to spin inde-
pendently of the engine.
5

Here are some preliminary checks to

help diagnose a clutch system failure:

a) To check "clutch spin down time," run

the engine at normal idle speed with the
transaxle in Neutral (clutch pedal up -

engaged). Disengage the clutch (pedal
down), wait several seconds and shift
the transaxle into Reverse. No grinding
noise should be heard. A grinding noise
would most likely indicate a problem
with the clutch release system.

b) To check for complete clutch release,

run the engine (with the parking brake
applied to prevent movement) and hold
the clutch pedal approximately 1/2-inch
from the floor. Shift the transaxle
between 1st gear and Reverse several
times. If the shift is not smooth, clutch
component failure is indicated.

c) Visually inspect the clutch pedal bush-

ings at the top of the clutch pedal to
make sure there is no sticking or exces-

sive wear.

For more information on clutch related

problems see the Troubleshooting section at
the beginning of this manual.

8-2

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

3.3 Remove the clutch cable

inspection cover

Clutch cable - removal and

installation

Removal

Refer to illustrations 3.3, 3.4, 3.5a, 3.5b, 3.5c
and 3.6

Raise the hood and place a blanket over

the left (driver's) fender to protect it.
2

Remove the air cleaner assembly (see

Chapter 4).
3

Remove the clutch cable inspection

cover from the bellhousing (see illustration).
4

Pull back on the clutch cable housing

and disengage it from the slot in the bell-
housing, then disconnect it from the release
lever (see illustration).
5

Working inside the vehicle, slightly

depress the clutch pedal to allow access to
the clutch cable up-stop/spacer. Remove the
retaining clip securing the up-stop/spacer to
the clutch pedal pivot pin (see illustration).
Wedge a narrow flat-blade screwdriver
between the clutch pedal pivot pin and the
up-stop/spacer retaining tab, then remove
the up-stop/spacer from the pivot pin (see
illustration). Remove the up-stop/spacer
from the clutch cable end (see illustration).

3.4 Grab onto the clutch cable housing,

pull it back and pass the clutch cable

through the slot in the bellhousing, then

disconnect it from the release lever

Caution: Do not pull on the clutch cable

while removing it from the dash panel as the

cable self-adjuster may be damaged. Work-

ing inside the engine compartment, hold onto

the grommet and, using a slight twisting

motion, carefully remove the clutch cable

grommet from the firewall and clutch bracket

(see illustration). If necessary, carefully use

a screwdriver to free the grommet from the
firewall opening. Remove the clutch cable
assembly from the vehicle.

Installation

To help ease installation, apply a little

petroleum jelly to the clutch cable grommet.
8

Working inside the engine compart-

ment, insert the self-adjusting end of the
clutch cable through the firewall and into the
clutch bracket using a slight twisting motion.
Make sure the cable grommet is fully seated
in the firewall.
9

Working inside the vehicle, seat the

cylindrical part of the grommet into the fire-
wall opening and clutch bracket. Make sure
the self-adjuster is firmly seated against the
clutch bracket to ensure the adjuster will
function properly.

3.5a Working inside the vehicle, slightly

depress the clutch pedal for access to the

clutch cable, then remove the clip (arrow)
securing the up-stop/spacer to the clutch

pedal pivot pin .. .

3.5b . . . next, wedge a narrow flat-blade
screwdriver between the up-stop/spacer

retainer and the clutch pedal pivot pin,

then slide the up-stop/spacer off the

pivot pin .. .

10 Install the up-stop/spacer onto the

clutch cable end, then install the up-
stop/spacer onto the clutch pedal pivot pin.

3.5c . . . and remove the up-stop/spacer from the clutch

cable end

3.6 Working in the engine compartment, carefully remove the

clutch cable and grommet from the firewall

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

8-3

BROKEN OR BENT FINGERS

EXCESSIVE FINGER WEAR

4.7 Typical diaphragm spring release finger defects

Install the retaining clip and make sure it is

properly seated.

Working inside the engine compart-

ment, using slight pressure, pull the clutch
cable end to draw the cable taut. Push the
cable housing toward the firewall with less
than 25 Ibs of pressure. The cable housing
should move about 1 to 2 inches - this indi-
cates proper adjuster operation. If the cable
does not adjust (move), make sure the
adjuster mechanism is properly seated in the
bracket.
12

Connect the cable to the release lever

making sure the cupped washer seats
securely on the release lever tangs.
13

Pull back on the clutch cable housing

and insert it into the bellhousing (see illustra-

tion 3.4).

14 Install the clutch cable inspection cover
onto the bellhousing (see illustration 3.3).

Modular clutch assembly -
removal, inspection and
installation

Warning: Dust produced by clutch wear and
deposited on clutch components may con-
tain asbestos, which is hazardous to your
health. DO NOT blow it out with compressed
air and DO NOT inhale it. DO NOT use gaso-
line or other petroleum-based solvents to
remove the dust. Brake system cleaner
should be used to flush the dust into a drain

pan. After the clutch components are wiped

clean with a rag, dispose of the contaminated
rags and cleaner in a labeled, covered con-
tainer.

Removal

Access to the clutch components is

nor

mally

accomplished

by removing the

transaxle, leaving the engine in the vehicle. If
the engine is being removed for major over-
haul, then the opportunity should always be
taken to check the clutch for wear and
replace worn components as necessary.
However, the relatively low cost of the clutch
components compared to the time and labor
involved in gaining access to them warrants

their replacement any time the engine or
transaxle is removed, unless they are new or

in near-perfect condition. The following pro-
cedure assumes that the engine will remain in

the vehicle.
2

Remove the transaxle from the vehicle

(see Chapter 7, Part A). Note: The modular

clutch assembly remains on the transaxle
input shaft during the removal process.
3

Remove the modular clutch assembly

from the transaxle. Handle it carefully to
avoid contaminating the friction surfaces.
4

To remove the clutch release bearing

and lever refer to Section 5.

Inspection

Refer to illustration 4.7
5

While they're accessible, inspect the

engine rear main oil seal and transaxle input
shaft seal for evidence of leakage. Replace
seals if necessary.
6

Inspect the modular clutch for oil or

grease contamination. Replace if contamina-
tion is present.
7

Inspect the clutch diaphragm spring

release fingers for excessive wear or damage
(see illustration). Replace the modular
clutch assembly if excessive wear or damage
is observed.

Installation

If removed, install the clutch release

bearing and lever (see Section 5).
9

Install the new modular clutch assembly

onto the transaxle input shaft.
10 Install the transaxle (see Chapter 7,
Part A). Note: Be sure to install new clutch

assembly-to-driveplate bolts. Tighten the
clutch assembly-to-driveplate bolts in a
criss-cross pattern to the torque listed in this
Chapter's Specifications.

Clutch release bearing and lever
- removal, inspection and

installation

Warning: Dust produced by clutch wear and
deposited on clutch components may con-
tain asbestos, which is hazardous to your

health. DO NOT blow it out with compressed
air and DO NOT inhale it. DO NOT use gaso-
line or petroleum-based solvents to remove
the dust. Brake system cleaner should be
used to flush it into a drain pan. After the
clutch components are wiped clean with a
rag, dispose of the contaminated rags and
cleaner in a labeled, covered container.

Removal

Refer to illustration 5.4

Disconnect the negative battery cable

from the ground stud on the left shock tower.

Remove the modular clutch assembly

(see Section 4). Handle it carefully to avoid

contaminating the friction surfaces.
3

Working on the transaxle, position the

release lever and bearing so the lever is at a
right angle to the input shaft. Grasp the
release lever on each side of the pivot ball

socket and pull; the release lever will pop off
the pivot stud. Caution: Do not use a screw-
driver or pry bar to disengage the lever as the
spring clips on the underside of the release
lever will be damaged.
4

Slide the release bearing and lever off

the bearing sleeve (see illustration).
5

Separate the fork from the bearing,

being careful not to damage the retention
tabs on the bearing.

5.4 Removing the release bearing

and lever

8-4

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

OUTER

JOINT

TUNED DAMPER WEIGHT

BEARING

SHIELD

INNER TRIPOD

JOINT

TONE WHEEL

(IF ABS EQUIPPED)

TUNED DAMPER

WEIGHT

5.6 Hold the release bearing outer race

and rotate the inner race while applying

pressure. It should turn smoothly and

quietly - if it feels rough or makes

noise, replace it

6.3 Clutch pedal details

Inspection

Refer to illustration 5.6
6

Hold the bearing by the outer race and

rotate the inner race while applying pressure
(see illustration). If the bearing doesn't turn
smoothly or if it's noisy, replace the bearing
assembly with a new one. Wipe the bearing
with a clean rag and inspect it for damage,
wear and cracks. Don't immerse the bearing
in solvent - it's sealed for life and to do so
would ruin it. Note: Because of the difficulty

involved in removing the transaxle for release
bearing replacement, we recommend rou-

tinely replacing the release bearing when the

modular clutch assembly is replaced.

Check the release lever fork for cracks

or distortion. Replace if necessary.

Inspect the pivot ball spring clips on the

back side of the lever. If they're cracked or
broken, replace the lever.

Clean any dirt off the pivot ball and

pocket in the release fork. Examine them for
damage

excessive wear. Replace if neces-

sary.

Installation

Lightly lubricate the release lever ends,

the inner diameter of the release bearing and
the input shaft with hi-temperature grease.
Caution: The pivot stud ball is Teflon coated

- don't apply any lubrication to it or it's pocket

OUTER

JOINT

OUTER

SEALING BOOT

JOINT

in the release fork as this would break down
the Teflon coating.

Install the release lever onto the bearing.

Note: The small pegs on the bearing must go
over the fork arms.

12 Install the release bearing and lever onto

the input shaft sleeve. Snap the lever into
place on the pivot ball. Make sure it is prop-
erly seated.
13 Install the modular clutch assembly (see
Section 4).

Clutch start switch - check and

replacement

Check

Refer to illustration 6.3

Verify that the engine will NOT start

when the clutch pedal is released (up).
2

Verify that the engine WILL start when

the clutch pedal is depressed (down).
3

If the engine won't start with the pedal

depressed, or starts with the pedal released,
unplug the electrical connector to the switch
(l ocated near the top of the clutch pedal) (see
illustration) and check continuity between
the connector terminals with the clutch pedal
depressed.
4

If there's continuity between the termi-

nals with the pedal depressed, the switch is
okay; if there's no continuity between the ter-
minals with the pedal depressed, replace the

switch. If there's continuity between the ter-

minals when the clutch pedal is released,
replace the switch.

Replacement

The non-adjustable switch is mounted

vertically at the upper end of the clutch pedal
lever.
6

Unplug the switch electrical connector

from the wiring harness.

Depress the wing tabs on the switch and

push the switch out of the mounting bracket.
8

Remove the switch and slide the wires

out of the slot in the bracket.
9

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Driveaxles - general information

and inspection

Refer to illustration 7.2

Power is transmitted from the transaxle

to the wheels through a pair of driveaxles. The
inner end of each driveaxle is splined to the
differential side gears. The driveaxles must be
removed to replace the driveaxle oil seals
located in the transaxle (see Chapter 7A). The
outer ends of the driveaxles are splined to the
front wheel hubs and secured by a large nut.
2

Each driveaxle assembly consists of an

inner and outer constant velocity (CV) joint
connected together by an axle shaft (see
illustration). The inner ends of the driveaxles

are equipped with a tripod type CV joint on all

models. This design is capable of both angu-
lar and axial motion. In other words, the inner

CV joints are free to slide in-and-out accord-
ing to the travel limits of the front suspension.
The inner CV joint (tripod joint) can be disas-
sembled and cleaned in the event of a sealing
boot failure, but if any parts are damaged, the
entire driveaxle assembly must be replaced
as a unit (see Section 8).
3

The outer CV joint on all models, is a

ball-and-cage design (Rzeppa joint), and is
capable of angular - but not axial - move-
ment. The outer CV joint is not serviceable.
The only serviceable part on the outer CV

joint is the hub/bearing shield (all models) and
the sealing boot (1998 and later models only).

In the event of bearing or sealing boot failure
on 1995 to 1997 models, the entire driveaxle
must be replaced.

BEARING

SHIELD

TRIPOD JOINT

SEALING BOOT

7.2 Driveaxle components

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

8-5

8.2a Remove the hub nut cotter pin .. .

The boots should be inspected periodi-

cally for damage and leaking lubricant (see
Chapter 1). Torn CV joint boots should be
replaced immediately or the CV joints can
become damaged due to lack of lubrication
or the ingress of water. Boot replacement
requires removal of the driveaxle (see Section
8). Note: Some auto parts stores carry "split"
type replacement boots, which can be

installed without removing the driveaxle from

the vehicle. This is a convenient alternative;

however, the driveaxle should be removed
and the CV joint disassembled and cleaned to
ensure the joint is free from contaminants
such as moisture and dirt which will acceler-
ate CV joint wear. The most common symp-
tom of worn or damaged CV joints, besides
lubricant leaks, is a clicking noise in turns, a
clunk when accelerating after coasting and
vibration at highway speeds. To check for
wear in the CV joints and driveaxle shafts,
grasp each axle (one at a time) and rotate it in
both directions while holding the CV joint
housings, feeling for play indicating worn
splines or sloppy CV joints. Also check the
axleshafts for cracks, dents and distortion.

8.2b ... then remove the lock and

spring washer

Driveaxle - removal and
installation

Removal

Refer to illustrations 8.2a, 8.2b, 8.3, 8.8a,
8.8b, 8.8c, 8.10 and 8.11
1

Disconnect the negative cable from the

remote battery terminal.
2

On 1995 through 1999 models, remove

the cotter pin, lock and spring washer (see

illustrations). Discard the cotter pin - you'll
need a new one for reassembly. Note: The

2000 model is not equipped with a cotter pin,
lock or spring washer.
3

Set the parking brake, place the trans-

mission in gear (or Park as applicable) and
have an assistant apply the brakes firmly,

then loosen the driveaxle/hub nut with a large
socket and breaker bar (see illustration). DO

NOT remove the nut at this time - only loosen

it - the driveaxle shaft/nut serves to maintain
the required load on the hub/wheel bearings.
4

Loosen the front wheel lug nuts, raise

the vehicle and support it securely on jack-

8.3 Loosen the driveaxle/hub nut - DO

NOT remove the nut - it holds the wheel

hub/bearing assembly together!

stands. Remove the wheel and driveaxle/hub

nut.

Remove the front brake caliper and

hang it from the upper control arm with a
piece of wire (see Chapter 9). Note: It is not

necessary to remove the brake pads for this
procedure.
6

It's not absolutely necessary that you

drain the transaxle lubricant prior to removing
a driveaxle, but if the mileage on the odome-
ter indicates that the transaxle is nearing the
lubricant-change interval prescribed in Chap-
ter 1 or the vehicle is at an angle that will
allow the fluid to run out of the driveaxle hole
- drain the transaxle lubricant (see Chapter 1).
7

Detach the lower control arm from the

steering knuckle at the lower balljoint (see
Chapter 10).
8

Angle the steering knuckle as required

and remove the driveaxle from the hub (see
illustration). Suspend the outer end of the
driveaxle with a piece of wire. DO NOT let it
hang from the inner CV joint! If the driveaxle
is stuck in the wheel hub, apply some pene -

8.8a Angle the steering knuckle as required and pull the driveaxle

from the wheel hub

8.8b If the driveaxle is stuck in the wheel hub, apply some

penetrating oil to the hub splines then install the hub nut onto the

driveaxle a few turns (to protect the threads) and strike the end of

the driveaxle with a soft-faced hammer to break it loose - DO NOT

attempt to drive the driveaxle out of the hub using a hammer!

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