Peugeot 205 (954 cc, 1124 cc, 1360 cc, 1580 cc & 1905 cc). Manual - part 11

lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute the
grinding compound. A light spring placed
under the valve head will greatly ease this
operation.
22 If coarse grinding compound is being
used, work only until a dull, matt even surface
is produced on both the valve seat and the
valve, then wipe off the used compound, and
repeat the process with fine compound. When
a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt
finish is produced on both the valve and seat,
the grinding operation is complete. Do not
grind-in the valves any further than absolutely
necessary, or the seat will be prematurely
sunk into the cylinder head.
23 When all the valves have been ground-in,
carefully wash off all traces of grinding
compound using paraffin or a suitable solvent,
before reassembling the cylinder head.

Valve components

24 Examine the valve springs for signs of
damage and discoloration. No minimum free
length is specified by Peugeot, so the only
way of judging valve spring wear is by
comparison with a new component.
25 Stand each spring on a flat surface, and
check it for squareness. If any of the springs
are damaged, distorted or have lost their
tension, obtain a complete new set of springs.
It is normal to renew the valve springs as a
matter of course if a major overhaul is being
carried out.
26 Renew the valve stem oil seals regardless
of their apparent condition.

Reassembly

27 Lubricate the stems of the valves, and
insert the valves into their original locations
(see illustration). If new valves are being
fitted, insert them into the locations to which
they have been ground.
28 Refit the spring seat then, working on the
first valve, dip the new valve stem seal in fresh
engine oil. Carefully locate it over the valve
and onto the guide. Take care not to damage
the seal as it is passed over the valve stem.
Use a suitable socket or metal tube to press
the seal firmly onto the guide (see
illustration).
29 Locate the valve spring on top of its seat,
then refit the spring retainer.

30 Compress the valve spring, and locate the
split collets in the recess in the valve stem.
Release the compressor, then repeat the
procedure on the remaining valves. 

31 With all the valves installed, place the
cylinder head face down on blocks on the
bench and, using a hammer and interposed
block of wood, tap the end of each valve stem
to settle the components.
32 Refit the camshaft, followers and shims
(as applicable) as described in Part A, B or C
of this Chapter.
33 The cylinder head can then be refitted as
described in Part A, B or C of this Chapter.

7

Piston/connecting rod
assembly - removal and
inspection

4

Removal

XV, XW and XY series engines

1 With the cylinder head removed, unscrew
and remove the bolts which hold the
crankcase half sections together. Split the
crankcase and keep the main bearing shells
with their crankcase web recesses if the shells
are to be used again (see illustration).

2 Remove the crankshaft oil seal.
3 Mark the rim of the cylinder liners in respect
of their position and orientation in the block.
Note that No 1 cylinder liner is at the
transmission (flywheel) end of the engine.
4 Mark the big-end caps and the connecting
rods so that they can be refitted in their
original sequence and the correct way round.
A centre punch or hacksaw blade is useful for
this purpose.
5 Unscrew the big-end nuts and remove the
caps (see illustration). If the bearing shells
are to be used again, keep them taped to their
respective cap.
6 Using a hammer handle, push the piston up
through the bore, and remove it from the top
of the cylinder liner. Recover the bearing shell,
and tape it to the connecting rod for safe-
keeping.
7 Loosely refit the big-end cap to the
connecting rod, and secure with the nuts -
this will help to keep the components in their
correct order.

XU and TU series engines

8 Remove the cylinder head, sump and oil
pump as described in Part B or C of this
Chapter (as applicable).
9 Using a hammer and centre-punch, paint or
similar, mark each connecting rod and big-
end bearing cap with its respective cylinder
number on the flat machined surface
provided; if the engine has been dismantled
before, note carefully any identifying marks
made previously (see illustration). Note that
No 1 cylinder is at the transmission (flywheel)
end of the engine.

2D•10 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

6.27  Lubricate the valve stems prior to

refitting

6.28  Fitting a valve stem oil seal using a

socket

7.1  Undo the bolts and split the crankcase

half sections - XV, XW and XY series engines

7.5  Remove the big-end bearing caps

7.9  Marks made on connecting rod and
bearing cap - XU and TU series engines

Use a little dab of grease to
hold the collets in position on
the valve stem while the
spring compressor is released.

10 Turn the crankshaft to bring pistons 1 and
4 to BDC (bottom dead centre).
11 Unscrew the nuts from No 1 piston big-
end bearing cap. Take off the cap, and
recover the bottom half bearing shell (see
illustration). If the bearing shells are to be re-
used, tape the cap and the shell together.
12 To prevent the possibility of damage to
the crankshaft bearing journals, tape over the
connecting rod stud threads.
13 Using a hammer handle, push the piston
up through the bore, and remove it from the
top of the cylinder block/liner. Recover the
bearing shell, and tape it to the connecting
rod for safe-keeping.
14 Loosely refit the big-end cap to the
connecting rod, and secure with the nuts -
this will help to keep the components in their
correct order.
15 Remove No 4 piston assembly in the
same way.
16 Turn the crankshaft through 180° to bring
pistons 2 and 3 to BDC (bottom dead centre),
and remove them in the same way.

Inspection

17 Before the inspection process can begin,
the piston/connecting rod assemblies must
be cleaned, and the original piston rings
removed from the pistons.
18 Carefully expand the old rings over the
top of the pistons. The use of two or three old
feeler blades will be helpful in preventing the
rings dropping into empty grooves (see
illustration). Be careful not to scratch the
piston with the ends of the ring. The rings are
brittle, and will snap if they are spread too far.
They are also very sharp - protect your hands
and fingers. Note that the third ring may
incorporate an expander. Always remove the
rings from the top of the piston. Keep each set
of rings with its piston if the old rings are to be
re-used.
19 Scrape away all traces of carbon from the
top of the piston. A hand-held wire brush (or a
piece of fine emery cloth) can be used, once
the majority of the deposits have been
scraped away.
20 Remove the carbon from the ring grooves
in the piston, using an old ring. Break the ring
in half to do this (be careful not to cut your
fingers - piston rings are sharp). Be careful to
remove only the carbon deposits - do not
remove any metal, and do not nick or scratch
the sides of the ring grooves.
21 Once the deposits have been removed,
clean the piston/connecting rod assembly
with paraffin or a suitable solvent, and dry
thoroughly. Make sure that the oil return holes
in the ring grooves are clear.
22 If the pistons and cylinder liners/bores are
not damaged or worn excessively, the original
pistons can be refitted. Normal piston wear
shows up as even vertical wear on the piston
thrust surfaces, and slight looseness of the
top ring in its groove. New piston rings should
always be used when the engine is
reassembled.

23 Carefully inspect each piston for cracks
around the skirt, around the gudgeon pin
holes, and at the piston ring “lands” (between
the ring grooves).
24 Look for scoring and scuffing on the
piston skirt, holes in the piston crown, and
burned areas at the edge of the crown. If the
skirt is scored or scuffed, the engine may
have been suffering from overheating, and/or
abnormal combustion which caused
excessively high operating temperatures. The
cooling and lubrication systems should be
checked thoroughly. Scorch marks on the
sides of the pistons show that blow-by has
occurred. A hole in the piston crown, or
burned areas at the edge of the piston crown,
indicates that abnormal combustion (pre-
ignition, knocking, or detonation) has been
occurring. If any of the above problems exist,
the causes must be investigated and
corrected, or the damage will occur again.
The causes may include incorrect ignition
timing, or a carburettor or fuel injection
system fault.
25 Corrosion of the piston, in the form of
pitting, indicates that coolant has been
leaking into the combustion chamber and/or
the crankcase. Again, the cause must be
corrected, or the problem may persist in the
rebuilt engine.
26 On aluminium-block engines with wet
liners, it is not possible to renew the pistons
separately; pistons are only supplied with
piston rings and a liner, as part of a matched
assembly (see Section 9). On cast-iron block
engines, pistons can be purchased from a
Peugeot dealer.
27 Examine each connecting rod carefully for
signs of damage, such as cracks around the
big-end and small-end bearings. Check that
the rod is not bent or distorted. Damage is
highly unlikely, unless the engine has been
seized or badly overheated. Detailed checking
of the connecting rod assembly can only be
carried out by a Peugeot dealer or engine
repair specialist with the necessary
equipment.
28 On XU series engines, due to the
tightening procedure for the connecting rod
big-end cap retaining nuts, it is highly
recommended that the big-end cap nuts and
bolts are renewed as a complete set prior to
refitting.

29 On all engines, the gudgeon pins are an
interference fit in the connecting rod small-
end bearing. Therefore, piston and/or
connecting rod renewal should be entrusted
to a Peugeot dealer or engine repair
specialist, who will have the necessary tooling
to remove and install the gudgeon pins.

8

Crankshaft - removal and
inspection

4

Removal

Note: If no work is to be done on the pistons
and connecting rods, then removal of the
cylinder head and pistons will not be
necessary. Instead, the pistons need only be
pushed far enough up the bores so that they
are positioned clear of the crankpins.
1 With reference to Part A, B or C of this
Chapter, and earlier Sections of this Part as
applicable, carry out the following:

a) Separate the engine from the transmission.
b) Remove the timing chain/belt and

crankshaft sprocket.

c) Remove the sump - XU and TU series

engines.

d) Remove the oil pump.
e) Remove the clutch components and

flywheel/driveplate.

XV, XW and XY series engines

2 Unscrew and remove the bolts which hold
the crankcase half sections together. Split the
crankcase and keep the main bearing shells
with their crankcase web recesses if the shells
are to be used again.
3 Remove the crankshaft oil seal.
4 If the piston/connecting rod assemblies are
to be left in place, mark the big-end caps and
the connecting rods so that they can be
refitted in their original sequence and the
correct way round. Note that No 1 cylinder
liner is at the transmission (flywheel) end of
the engine.
5 Unscrew the big-end nuts and remove the
caps and lower big-end bearing shells.
6 Before removing the crankshaft it is
advisable to check the endfloat using a dial
gauge in contact with the end of the
crankshaft. Push the crankshaft fully one way,

Engine removal and overhaul procedures  2D•11

2D

7.11  Removing a big-end bearing cap and

shell

7.18  Using old feeler blades to assist

removal of the piston rings

and then zero the gauge. Push the crankshaft
fully the other way, and check the endfloat.
The result can be compared with the specified
amount, and will give an indication as to
whether new thrustwashers are required.
7 If a dial gauge is not available, feeler blades
can be used. First push the crankshaft fully
towards the flywheel end of the engine, then
use feeler blades to measure the gap between
the web of the crankpin and the thrustwasher
(see illustration).
8 Lift the crankshaft from its crankcase half
section, keep the shell bearings in their
original web recesses if they are to be used
again and retrieve the semi-circular thrust-
washers from either side of No 2 bearing web.
9 Loosely refit the big-end caps to the
connecting rods, and secure with the nuts -
this will help to keep the components in their
correct order.

XU series engines

10 Remove the pistons and connecting rods
as described in Section 7. (Refer to the Note
at the beginning of this Section).
11 Slacken and remove the retaining bolts,
and remove the oil seal carrier from the front
(timing belt) end of the cylinder block, along
with its gasket (where fitted) (see illustration).
12 Remove the oil pump drive chain, and
slide the drive sprocket and spacer (where
fitted) off the end of the crankshaft. Remove
the Woodruff key, and store it with the
sprocket for safe-keeping (see illustrations).
13 Before removing the crankshaft it is
advisable to check the endfloat as described
in paragraphs 6 and 7.

14 The main bearing caps should be
numbered 1 to 5, starting from the
transmission (flywheel/driveplate) end of the
engine (see illustration). If not, mark them
accordingly using a centre-punch. Also note
the correct fitted depth of the rear crankshaft
oil seal in the bearing cap.
15 Undo the two bolts (one at the front of the
block, and one at the rear) securing the centre
main bearing cap to the block. Remove the
bolts, along with their sealing washers.
16 Slacken and remove the main bearing cap
retaining bolts/nuts, and lift off each bearing
cap. Recover the lower bearing shells, and
tape them to their respective caps for safe-
keeping. Also recover the lower thrustwasher
halves from the side of No 2 main bearing cap
(see illustration). Remove the rubber sealing
strips from the sides of No 1 main bearing
cap, and discard them.
17 Lift out the crankshaft, and discard the
rear oil seal.
18 Recover the upper bearing shells from the
cylinder block, and tape them to their
respective caps for safe-keeping. Remove the
upper thrustwasher halves from the side of No
2 main bearing, and store them with the lower
halves.

TU series aluminium block
engines 

19 Remove the pistons and connecting rods
as described in Section 7. (Refer to the Note
at the beginning of this Section).
20 Before removing the crankshaft it is
advisable to check the endfloat as described
in paragraphs 6 and 7.

21 Work around the outside of the cylinder
block, and unscrew all the small (6 mm) bolts
securing the main bearing ladder to the base
of the cylinder block. Note the correct fitted
depth of both the left- and right-hand
crankshaft oil seals in the cylinder block/main
bearing ladder.
22 Working in a diagonal sequence, evenly
and progressively slacken the ten large (11
mm) main bearing ladder retaining bolts by a
turn at a time. Once all the bolts are loose,
remove them from the ladder.
23 With all the retaining bolts removed,
carefully lift the main bearing ladder casting
away from the base of the cylinder block.
Recover the lower main bearing shells, and
tape them to their respective locations in the
casting. If the two locating dowels are a loose
fit, remove them and store them with the
casting for safe-keeping.
24 Lift out the crankshaft, and discard both
the oil seals. Remove the oil pump drive chain
from the end of the crankshaft. Where
necessary, slide off the drive sprocket, and
recover the Woodruff key.
25 Recover the upper main bearing shells,
and store them along with the relevant lower
bearing shell. Also recover the two
thrustwashers (one fitted either side of No 2
main bearing) from the cylinder block.

TU series cast-iron block
engines

26 Remove the pistons and connecting rods
as described in Section 7. (Refer to the Note
at the beginning of this Section).

2D•12 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

8.7  Checking crankshaft endfloat using

feeler blades

8.11 Removing the oil seal carrier from the

front of the block - XU series engines

8.12a  Slide off the oil pump drive 

sprocket . . .

8.12b  . . . and remove the Woodruff key

8.14  Main bearing cap identification

markings (arrowed)

8.16  Removing the main bearing cap and

thrustwashers (arrowed)

27 Before removing the crankshaft it is
advisable to check the endfloat as described
in paragraphs 6 and 7.
28 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft left-
and right-hand oil seal housings from each
end of the cylinder block, noting the correct
fitted locations of the locating dowels. If the
locating dowels are a loose fit, remove them
and store them with the housings for safe-
keeping.
29 Remove the oil pump drive chain, and
slide the drive sprocket off the end of the
crankshaft. Remove the Woodruff key, and
store it with the sprocket for safe-keeping.
30 The main bearing caps should be
numbered 1 to 5 from the transmission
(flywheel) end of the engine. If not, mark them
accordingly using a centre-punch or paint.
31 Unscrew and remove the main bearing
cap retaining bolts, and withdraw the caps.
Recover the lower main bearing shells, and
tape them to their respective caps for safe-
keeping.
32 Carefully lift out the crankshaft, taking
care not to displace the upper main bearing
shell.
33 Recover the upper bearing shells from the
cylinder block, and tape them to their
respective caps for safe-keeping. Remove the
thrustwasher halves from the side of No 2 main
bearing, and store them with the bearing cap.

Inspection

34 Clean the crankshaft using paraffin or a
suitable solvent, and dry it, preferably with
compressed air if available. Be sure to clean
the oil holes with a pipe cleaner or similar
probe, to ensure that they are not obstructed.

Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!

35 Check the main and big-end bearing
journals for uneven wear, scoring, pitting and
cracking.
36 Big-end bearing wear is accompanied by
distinct metallic knocking when the engine is
running (particularly noticeable when the
engine is pulling from low speed) and some
loss of oil pressure.
37 Main bearing wear is accompanied by
severe engine vibration and rumble - getting
progressively worse as engine speed
increases - and again by loss of oil pressure.
38 Check the bearing journal for roughness
by running a finger lightly over the bearing
surface. Any roughness (which will be
accompanied by obvious bearing wear)
indicates that the crankshaft requires
regrinding (where possible) or renewal.
39 If the crankshaft has been reground,
check for burrs around the crankshaft oil
holes (the holes are usually chamfered, so
burrs should not be a problem unless
regrinding has been carried out carelessly).
Remove any burrs with a fine file or scraper,
and thoroughly clean the oil holes as
described previously.

40 Using a micrometer, measure the
diameter of the main and big-end bearing
journals, and compare the results with the
Specifications

(see illustration). By

measuring the diameter at a number of points
around each journal’s circumference, you will
be able to determine whether or not the
journal is out-of-round. Take the
measurement at each end of the journal, near
the webs, to determine if the journal is
tapered. Compare the results obtained with
those given in the Specifications.
41 Check the oil seal contact surfaces at
each end of the crankshaft for wear and
damage. If the seal has worn a deep groove in
the surface of the crankshaft, consult an
engine overhaul specialist; repair may be
possible, but otherwise a new crankshaft will
be required.
42 At the time of writing, it was not clear
whether Peugeot produce oversize bearing
shells for all of these engines. On some
engines, if the crankshaft journals have not
already been reground, it may be possible to
have the crankshaft reconditioned, and to fit
oversize shells (see Section 13). If no oversize
shells are available and the crankshaft has
worn beyond the specified limits, it will have
to be renewed. Consult your Peugeot dealer
or engine specialist for further information on
parts availability.

9

Cylinder block/crankcase -
cleaning and inspection

3

Cleaning

1 Remove all external components and
electrical switches/sensors from the block.
2 On aluminium block engines with wet
liners, remove the liners as described in para-
graph 11.
3 Scrape all traces of gasket from the cylinder
block/crankcase, and from the main bearing
ladder (where fitted), taking care not to
damage the gasket/sealing surfaces.
4 Remove all oil gallery plugs (where fitted).
The plugs are usually very tight - they may
have to be drilled out, and the holes re-
tapped. Use new plugs when the engine is
reassembled.

5 If any of the castings are extremely dirty, all
should be steam-cleaned.
6 After the castings are returned, clean all oil
holes and oil galleries one more time. Flush all
internal passages with warm water until the
water runs clear. Dry thoroughly, and apply a
light film of oil to all mating surfaces, to
prevent rusting. On cast-iron block engines,
also oil the cylinder bores. If you have access
to compressed air, use it to speed up the
drying process, and to blow out all the oil
holes and galleries. 

Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!

7 If the castings are not very dirty, you can do
an adequate cleaning job with hot (as hot as
you can stand!), soapy water and a stiff brush.
Take plenty of time, and do a thorough job.
Regardless of the cleaning method used, be
sure to clean all oil holes and galleries very
thoroughly, and to dry all components well.
On cast-iron block engines, protect the
cylinder bores as described above, to prevent
rusting.
8 All threaded holes must be clean, to ensure
accurate torque readings during reassembly.
To clean the threads, run the correct-size tap
into each of the holes to remove rust,
corrosion, thread sealant or sludge, and to
restore damaged threads (see illustration). If
possible, use compressed air to clear the
holes of debris produced by this operation.

Warning: Wear eye protection
when cleaning out these holes
in this way!

9 Apply suitable sealant to the new oil gallery
plugs, and insert them into the holes in the
block. Tighten them securely.
10 If the engine is not going to be
reassembled right away, cover it with a large
plastic bag to keep it clean; protect all mating
surfaces and the cylinder bores as described
above, to prevent rusting.

Inspection (aluminium cylinder
block with wet liners)

11 Remove the liner clamps (where used),
then use a hard wood drift to tap out each
liner from the inside of the cylinder block.

Engine removal and overhaul procedures  2D•13

2D

8.40  Measuring a crankshaft big-end

journal diameter

9.8  Cleaning a cylinder block threaded

hole using a suitable tap

When all the liners are released, tip the
cylinder block/crankcase on its side and
remove each liner from the top of the block.
As each liner is removed, stick masking tape
on its left-hand (transmission side) face, and
write the cylinder number on the tape. No 1
cylinder is at the transmission (flywheel/
driveplate) end of the engine. Remove the
paper base seal or O-ring from the base of
each liner, and discard (see illustration).
12 Check each cylinder liner for scuffing and
scoring. Check for signs of a wear ridge at the
top of the liner, indicating that the bore is
excessively worn.
13 If the necessary measuring equipment is
available, measure the bore diameter of each
cylinder liner at the top (just under the wear
ridge), centre, and bottom of the cylinder
bore, parallel to the crankshaft axis.
14 Next, measure the bore diameter at the
same three locations, at right-angles to the
crankshaft axis.
15 Repeat the procedure for the remaining
cylinder liners.
16 If the liner wear is excessive at any point,
or if the cylinder liner walls are badly scored or
scuffed, then renewal of the relevant liner
assembly will be necessary. If there is any
doubt about the condition of the cylinder
bores, seek the advice of a Peugeot dealer or
engine reconditioning specialist.

17 If renewal is necessary, new liners,
complete with pistons and piston rings, can
be purchased from a Peugeot dealer. Note
that it is not possible to buy liners individually
- they are supplied only as a matched
assembly complete with piston and rings.
18 To allow for manufacturing tolerances,
pistons and liners are separated into three
size groups. The size group of each piston is
indicated by a letter (A, B or C) stamped onto
its crown, and the size group of each liner is
indicated by a series of 1 to 3 notches on the
upper lip of the liner (see illustration); a single
notch for group A, two notches for group B,
and three notches for group C (on some
engines the actual letters A, B, C may also
appear on the liners instead of the notches).
Ensure that each piston and its respective
liner are both of the same size group. It is
permissible to have different size group piston
and liner assemblies fitted to the same
engine, but never fit a piston of one size group
to a liner in a different group.
19 Prior to installing the liners it is necessary
to check the liner protrusion above the top of
the cylinder block as follows.

XV, XW and XY series engines with
paper type base seals

20 If the cylinder liners had paper type base
seals, the liner protrusion must be measured
and seals of the correct thickness selected.
21 Paper base seals are available in four
different thicknesses:

Blue

0.087 mm

White

0.102 mm

Red

1.122 mm

Yellow

0.147 mm

22 The correct protrusion for each liner
above the surface of the cylinder block is
given in the Specifications and it is preferable
to aim for the greater protrusion when
selecting new seals.
23 Fit the liners without the seals into their
original locations. If new liners are being fitted,
they of course can be fitted in any order.

24 Using a dial indicator or feeler blades and
a straight-edge, measure the protrusion of
each liner above the top of the cylinder block
(see illustration).
25 It is now a simple matter to select a paper
base seal which, when its thickness is added
to the recorded protrusion will equal the
specified protrusion.
26 Make sure that the difference in
protrusion between adjacent liners does not
exceed 0.04 mm. If it does, reduce the seal
thickness on the greater protruding liner.
27 If new liners are being fitted, the
protrusion differences can be eliminated by
changing the position of the liner in the block
or by twisting it on its base.
28 Prior to installing the liners, thoroughly
clean the liner mating surfaces in the cylinder
block, and use fine abrasive paper to polish
away any burrs or sharp edges which might
damage the liner base seals. Clean the liners
and wipe dry, then fit the selected paper seals
to the base of each liner so that their tabs are
diametrically opposite to the liner rim marks.
To aid installation, apply a smear of oil to the
base of the liner.
29 Insert each liner into its correct location in
the block then, using a hammer and a block of
wood, tap each liner lightly but fully onto its
locating shoulder. Wipe clean, then lightly oil,
all exposed liner surfaces, to prevent rusting.

XV, XW and XY series engines with
O-ring type seals

30 If the original liners are being refitted then
the projection should be correct once new
O-ring seals have been fitted.
31 If new liners are being fitted, then
measure the protrusion of each liner without
its seal as described in paragraph 24 and
compare the figures obtained with those given
in the Specifications.
32 If the difference between adjacent liners
exceeds 0.05 mm, rotate the liners through
half a turn or interchange the liner position in
the block.

2D•14 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

9.11  Cylinder liner with paper base seal

9.18  Cylinder liner size group marking

9.24  Measuring cylinder liner protrusion

33 Prior to installing the liners, thoroughly
clean the liner mating surfaces in the cylinder
block, and use fine abrasive paper to polish
away any burrs or sharp edges which might
damage the liner base seals. Clean the liners
and wipe dry, then fit the O-ring seals to the
base of each liner. To aid installation, apply a
smear of oil to the base of the liner.
34 Insert each liner into its correct location in
the block then, using a hammer and a block of
wood, tap each liner lightly but fully onto its
locating shoulder. Wipe clean, then lightly oil,
all exposed liner surfaces, to prevent rusting.

XU and TU series engines

35 Prior to installing the liners, thoroughly
clean the liner mating surfaces in the cylinder
block, and use fine abrasive paper to polish
away any burrs or sharp edges which might
damage the liner base seals. Clean the liners
and wipe dry, then fit a new O-ring to the base
of each liner. To aid installation, apply a smear
of oil to each O-ring and to the base of the liner.
36 If the original liners are being refitted, use
the marks made on removal to ensure that
each is refitted the correct way round, and is
inserted into its original bore. Insert each liner
into the cylinder block, taking care not to
damage the O-ring, and press it home as far
as possible by hand (see illustration). Using
a hammer and a block of wood, tap each liner
lightly but fully onto its locating shoulder.
Wipe clean, then lightly oil, all exposed liner
surfaces, to prevent rusting.
37 With all four liners correctly installed, use
a dial gauge (or a straight-edge and feeler
blade) to check that the protrusion of each
liner above the upper surface of the cylinder
block is within the limits given in the
Specifications. The maximum difference
between any two liners must not be
exceeded. Note that the liner protrusion
figures are different for later XU series
engines.
38 If new liners are being fitted, it is
permissible to interchange them to bring the
difference in protrusion within limits.
Remember to keep each piston with its
respective liner.
39 If liner protrusion cannot be brought
within limits, seek the advice of a Peugeot
dealer or engine reconditioning specialist
before proceeding with the engine rebuild.

Inspection (cast-iron cylinder
block)

40 Visually check the castings for cracks and
corrosion. Look for stripped threads in the
threaded holes. If there has been any history
of internal water leakage, it may be worthwhile
having an engine overhaul specialist check
the cylinder block/crankcase with special
equipment. If defects are found, have them
repaired if possible, or renew the assembly.
41 Check each cylinder bore for scuffing and
scoring. Check for signs of a wear ridge at the
top of the cylinder, indicating that the bore is
excessively worn.
42 If the necessary measuring equipment is
available, measure the bore diameter of each
cylinder liner at the top (just under the wear
ridge), centre, and bottom of the cylinder
bore, parallel to the crankshaft axis.
43 Next, measure the bore diameter at the
same three locations, at right-angles to the
crankshaft axis. As no tolerance figures are
actually stated by Peugeot, if there is any
doubt about the condition of the cylinder
bores, seek the advice of a Peugeot dealer or
suitable engine reconditioning specialist.
44 At the time of writing, it was not clear
whether oversize pistons were available for all
models. Consult your Peugeot dealer for the
latest information on piston availability. If
oversize pistons are available, then it may be
possible to have the cylinder bores rebored
and fit the oversize pistons. If oversize pistons
are not available, and the bores are worn,
renewal of the block seems to be the only
option.

10 Main and big-end bearings -

inspection

4

Inspection

1 Even though the main and big-end bearing
shells should be renewed during the engine
overhaul, the old shells should be retained for

close examination, as they may reveal
valuable information about the condition of
the engine.
2 Bearing failure occurs because of lack of
lubrication, the presence of dirt or other
foreign particles, overloading the engine, and
corrosion (see illustration). Regardless of the
cause of bearing failure, the cause must be
corrected (where applicable) before the
engine is reassembled, to prevent it from
happening again.
3 When examining the bearing shells, remove
them from the cylinder block/crankcase and
main bearing caps, and from the connecting
rods and the big-end bearing caps, then lay
them out on a clean surface in the same
general position as their location in the
engine. This will enable you to match any
bearing problems with the corresponding
crankshaft journal. Do not touch any shell’s
bearing surface with your fingers while
checking it, or the delicate surface may be
scratched.
4 Dirt or other foreign matter gets into the
engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in
the engine during assembly, or it may pass
through filters or the crankcase ventilation
system. It may get into the oil, and from there
into the bearings. Metal chips from machining
operations and normal engine wear are often
present. Abrasives are sometimes left in
engine components after reconditioning,
especially when parts are not thoroughly
cleaned using the proper cleaning methods.
Whatever the source, these foreign objects
often end up embedded in the soft bearing
material, and are easily recognised. Large
particles will not embed in the material, and
will score or gouge the shell and journal. The
best prevention for this cause of bearing
failure is to clean all parts thoroughly, and to
keep everything spotlessly-clean during
engine assembly. Frequent and regular engine
oil and filter changes are also recommended.
5 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication breakdown)
has a number of inter-related causes. Excessive
heat (which thins the oil), overloading (which
squeezes the oil from the bearing face) and oil

Engine removal and overhaul procedures  2D•15

2D

9.36  Fitting a liner to the cylinder block

A Scratched by dirt;  dirt embedded in

bearing material

B Lack of oil;  overlay wiped out
C Improper seating;  bright (polished

sections)

D Tapered journal;  overlay gone from

entire surface

E Radius ride
F Fatigue failure;  craters or pockets

10.2  Typical bearing failures

leakage (from excessive bearing clearances,
worn oil pump or high engine speeds) all
contribute to lubrication breakdown. Blocked oil
passages, which usually are the result of
misaligned oil holes in a bearing shell, will also
starve a bearing of oil, and destroy it. When lack
of lubrication is the cause of bearing failure, the
bearing material is wiped or extruded from the
shell’s steel backing. Temperatures may
increase to the point where the steel backing
turns blue from overheating.
6 Driving habits can have a definite effect on
bearing life. Full-throttle, low-speed operation
(labouring the engine) puts very high loads on
bearings, which tends to squeeze out the oil
film. These loads cause the shells to flex,
which produces fine cracks in the bearing
face (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearing
material will loosen in pieces, and tear away
from the steel backing.
7 Short-distance driving leads to corrosion of
bearings, because insufficient engine heat is
produced to drive off condensed water and
corrosive gases. These products collect in the
engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil
is carried to the engine bearings, the acid
attacks and corrodes the bearing material.
8 Incorrect shell refitting during engine
assembly will lead to bearing failure as well.
Tight-fitting shells leave insufficient bearing
running clearance, and will result in oil
starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped
behind a bearing shell result in high spots on
the bearing, which lead to failure.
9 Do not touch any shell’s bearing surface
with your fingers during reassembly; there is a
risk of scratching the delicate surface, or of
depositing particles of dirt on it.

11 Engine overhaul - reassembly

sequence

1 Before reassembly begins, ensure that all
new parts have been obtained, and that all
necessary tools are available. Read through
the entire procedure to familiarise yourself
with the work involved, and to ensure that all
items necessary for reassembly of the engine
are at hand. In addition to all normal tools and
materials, thread-locking compound will be
needed. A suitable tube of liquid sealant will
also be required for the joint faces that are
fitted without gaskets. It is recommended that
Peugeot’s own product(s) are used, which are
specially formulated for this purpose.
2 In order to save time and avoid problems,
engine reassembly can be carried out in the
following order:

a) Crankshaft (Section 13)*.
b) Piston/connecting rod assemblies

(Section 14)*.

c) Oil pump - XU and TU series engines.
d) Sump - XU and TU series engines (See

Part B or C as applicable).

e) Flywheel (See Part A, B or C as applicable).
f) Cylinder head (See Part A, B or C - as

applicable).

g) Timing chain/belt, sprockets and tensioner

(See Part A, B, or C as applicable).

h) Oil pump - XV, XW and XY series engines.
i) Engine external components.

*On XV XW and XY series engines the piston
connecting rod assemblies must be fitted
before the crankshaft due to the arrangement
of the split crankcase.
3 At this stage, all engine components should
be absolutely clean and dry, with all faults
repaired. The components should be laid out
(or in individual containers) on a completely
clean work surface

.

12 Piston rings - refitting

3

1 Before fitting new piston rings, the ring end
gaps must be checked as follows.
2 Lay out the piston/connecting rod
assemblies and the new piston ring sets, so
that the ring sets will be matched with the
same piston and cylinder during the end gap
measurement and subsequent engine
reassembly.
3 Insert the top ring into the first cylinder, and
push it down the bore using the top of the
piston. This will ensure that the ring remains
square with the cylinder walls. Position the
ring near the bottom of the cylinder bore, at
the lower limit of ring travel. Note that the top
and second compression rings are different.
The second ring is easily identified by the step
on its lower surface, and by the fact that its
outer face is tapered.
4 Measure the end gap using feeler blades.
5 Repeat the procedure with the ring at the
top of the cylinder bore, at the upper limit of
its travel (see illustration), and compare the
measurements with the figures given in the
Specifications. Where no figures are given,
seek the advice of a Peugeot dealer or engine
reconditioning specialist.
6 If the gap is too small (unlikely if genuine
Peugeot parts are used), it must be enlarged,
or the ring ends may contact each other during
engine operation, causing serious damage.
Ideally, new piston rings providing the correct
end gap should be fitted. As a last resort, the
end gap can be increased by filing the ring

ends very carefully with a fine file. Mount the
file in a vice equipped with soft jaws, slip the
ring over the file with the ends contacting the
file face, and slowly move the ring to remove
material from the ends. Take care, as piston
rings are sharp, and are easily broken.
7 With new piston rings, it is unlikely that the
end gap will be too large. If the gaps are too
large, check that you have the correct rings
for your engine and for the particular cylinder
bore size.
8 Repeat the checking procedure for each
ring in the first cylinder, and then for the rings
in the remaining cylinders. Remember to keep
rings, pistons and cylinders matched up.
9 Once the ring end gaps have been checked
and if necessary corrected, the rings can be
fitted to the pistons.
10 Fit the piston rings using the same
technique as for removal. Fit the bottom (oil
control) ring first, and work up. When fitting a
three piece oil control ring, first insert the
expander and position its gap in line with the
centre of the gudgeon pin. Fit the scraper rings
with their gaps positioned 20 to 30 mm either
side of the expander gap. Where the oil control
scraper is of one-piece type, position its gap
180° from the expander gap. Ensure that the
second compression ring is fitted the correct
way up, with its identification mark (either a
dot of paint or the word “TOP” or “TOPC”
stamped on the ring surface) at the top, and
the stepped surface at the bottom (see
illustration). Arrange the gaps of the top and
second compression rings 120° either side of
the oil control expander gap. Note: Always
follow any instructions supplied with the new
piston ring sets - different manufacturers may
specify different procedures. Do not mix up the
top and second compression rings, as they
have different cross-sections.

13 Crankshaft - refitting and

main bearing running
clearance check

4

Main bearing shell selection

XV, XW and XY series engines

1 Bearing shells on these engines are not
graded and are supplied in one standard size
or one oversize only, to match the dimensions
of the respective journal. As the
manufacturer’s do not specify an actual
running clearance dimension for the bearings,
the only safe course of action is to fit new
shells whenever an overhaul is being
undertaken. Assuming that the relevant
crankshaft journals are all within tolerance, the
running clearances will then be correct.
2 Note also that from early 1986, the locating
tabs of the main bearing shells are offset, and
it is not possible to fit the earlier type of main
bearing shell to later models with this
modification. Seek the advice of a Peugeot
dealer or engine overhaul specialist when
selecting bearing shells.

2D•16 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

12.5  Measuring piston ring end gap

XU series engines

3 On some early engines, both the upper and
lower bearing shells were of the same
thickness.
4 However, on later engines the main bearing
running clearance was significantly reduced.
To enable this to be done, four different grades
of bearing shell were introduced. The grades
are indicated by a colour-coding marked on the
edge of each shell, which denotes the shell’s
thickness, as listed in the following table. The
upper shell on all bearings is of the same size,
and the running clearance is controlled by
fitting a lower bearing shell of the required
thickness. This arrangement has been fitted to
all engines produced since mid-1994 and, if
possible, should also be fitted to earlier
engines during overhaul (see paragraph 11).

Bearing colour 

Thickness (mm)

code

Standard

Undersize

Upper bearing:
Yellow

1.856

2.006

Lower bearing:
Blue (Class A)

1.836

1.986

Black (Class B)

1.848

1.998

Green (Class C)

1.859

2.009

Red (Class D)

1.870

2.020

Note: On later engines, upper shells are easily
distinguished from lower shells, by their
grooved bearing surface; the lower shells have
a plain surface.
5 On early engines, the correct size of bearing
shell must be selected by measuring the
running clearance as described under the
sub-heading below.
6 On engines produced since mid-1994,
when the new bearing shell sizes were
introduced, the crankshaft and cylinder
block/crankcase have had reference marks on
them to identify the size of the journals and
bearing bores.

7 The cylinder block reference marks are on
the left-hand (transmission) end of the block.
The crankshaft reference marks are on the
left-hand (transmission) end of the crankshaft,
on the left-hand web of No 1 crankpin (see
illustration). These marks can be used to
select bearing shells of the required thickness
as follows.
8 On both the crankshaft and block, there
are two lines of identification, a bar code,
which is used by Peugeot during production,
and a row of five characters (letters and
numbers). The first character in the sequence
refers to the relevant size of No 1 bearing (at
the flywheel/driveplate end) and the last letter
in the sequence refers to the relevant size of
No 5 main bearing. These marks can be used
to select the required bearing shell grade as
follows.

9 Obtain the identification character of both
the relevant crankshaft journal and the
cylinder block bearing bore. Note that the
crankshaft characters are listed across the
top of the chart, and the cylinder block
characters down the side (see illustration).
Trace a vertical line down from the relevant
crankshaft character, and a horizontal line
across from the relevant cylinder block
character, and find the point at which both
lines cross. This crossover point will indicate
the grade of lower bearing shell required to
give the correct main bearing running
clearance. For example, the illustration shows
cylinder block reference H, and crankshaft
reference 6, crossing at a point within the area
of Class D, indicating that a Red (Class D)
lower bearing shell is required to give the
correct main bearing running clearance.

Engine removal and overhaul procedures  2D•17

2D

12.10 Piston ring identification

1 Oil control ring
2 Second compression ring
3 First compression ring

b Oil control expander ring

gap

c Oil control scraper ring gaps

13.7  Cylinder block

and crankshaft main

bearing reference

markings - later XU

series engines

A Bar code (used in

production)

B Identification characters

13.9  Main bearing shell selection chart - later XU series engines

BE Blue (Class A)

NR Black (Class B)

VE Green (Class C)

RG Red (Class D)