Peugeot 205 (954 cc, 1124 cc, 1360 cc, 1580 cc & 1905 cc). Manual - part 9

21 Loosen the tensioner pulley retaining nut.
Rotate the pulley anti-clockwise to remove all
free play from the timing belt, then retighten
the nut.
22 Tension the belt as described in
paragraphs 14 to 19 of Section 7.
23 Refit the timing belt covers as described
in Section 6.

Crankshaft sprocket

24 Where removed, locate the Woodruff key
in the crankshaft end, then slide on the
flanged spacer, aligning its slot with the
Woodruff key.
25 Align the crankshaft sprocket slot with the
Woodruff key, and slide it onto the end of the
crankshaft.
26 Temporarily remove the locking pin from
the rear of the flywheel, then refit the
crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt and
washer. Tighten the bolt to the specified
torque, whilst preventing crankshaft rotation
using the method employed on removal. Refit
the locking pin to the rear of the flywheel.
27 Relocate the timing belt on the crankshaft
sprocket. Ensure that the “front run” of the
belt is taut - ie, ensure that any slack is on the
tensioner pulley side of the belt. Do not twist
the belt sharply while refitting it, and ensure
that the belt teeth are seated centrally in the
sprockets.
28 Loosen the tensioner pulley retaining nut.
Rotate the pulley anti-clockwise to remove all
free play from the timing belt, then retighten
the nut.
29 Tension the belt as described in
paragraphs 14 to 19 of Section 7.
30 Refit the timing belt covers as described
in Section 6.

Tensioner pulley

31 Refit the tensioner pulley to its mounting
stud, and fit the retaining nut.
32 Ensure that the “front run” of the belt is
taut - ie, ensure that any slack is on the pulley
side of the belt. Check that the belt is centrally
located on all its sprockets. Rotate the pulley
anti-clockwise to remove all free play from the
timing belt, then tighten the pulley retaining
nut securely.
33 Tension the belt as described in
paragraphs 14 to 19 of Section 7.
34 Refit the timing belt covers as described
in Section 6.

Camshaft oil seal - renewal

Note: If the camshaft oil seal is to be renewed
with the timing belt still in place, check first
that the belt is free from oil contamination.
(Renew the belt as a matter of course if signs
of oil contamination are found; see Section 7).
Cover the belt to protect it from oil
contamination while work is in progress.
Ensure that all traces of oil are removed from
the area before the belt is refitted.

1 Remove the camshaft sprocket as
described in Section 8.
2 Punch or drill two small holes opposite
each other in the oil seal. Screw a self-tapping
screw into each, and pull on the screws with
pliers to extract the seal.
3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean
engine oil, and drive it into position until it
seats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitable
tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears
only on the hard outer edge of the seal. Take
care not to damage the seal lips during fitting.
Note that the seal lips should face inwards.
5 Refit the camshaft sprocket as described in
Section 8.

10 Camshaft and rocker arms -

removal, inspection and
refitting

General information

1 The rocker arm assembly is secured to the
top of the cylinder head by the cylinder head
bolts. Although in theory it is possible to undo
the head bolts and remove the rocker arm
assembly without removing the head, in
practice, this is not recommended. Once the
bolts have been removed, the head gasket will
be disturbed, and the gasket will almost
certainly leak or blow after refitting. For this
reason, removal of the rocker arm assembly
cannot be done without removing the cylinder
head and renewing the head gasket.
2 The camshaft is slid out of the right-hand
end of the cylinder head, and it therefore
cannot be removed without first removing the
cylinder head, due to a lack of clearance.

Removal

Rocker arm assembly

3 Remove the cylinder head as described in
Section 11.
4 To dismantle the rocker arm assembly,
carefully prise off the circlip from the right-
hand end of the rocker shaft; retain the rocker
pedestal, to prevent it being sprung off the

end of the shaft. Slide the various
components off the end of the shaft, keeping
all components in their correct fitted order
(see illustration). Make a note of each
component’s correct fitted position and
orientation as it is removed, to ensure it is
fitted correctly on reassembly.
5 To separate the left-hand pedestal and
shaft, first unscrew the cylinder head cover
retaining stud from the top of the pedestal;
this can be achieved using a stud extractor, or
two nuts locked together. With the stud
removed, unscrew the grub screw from the
top of the pedestal, and withdraw the rocker
shaft (see illustrations).

Camshaft

6 Remove the cylinder head as described in
Section 11.
7 With the head on a bench, remove the
locking pin, then remove the camshaft
sprocket as described in paragraphs 6 and 7
of Section 8.
8 Unbolt the housing from the left-hand end
of the cylinder head, then undo the retaining
bolt, and remove the camshaft thrust fork
from the cylinder head (see illustration).
9 Using a large flat-bladed screwdriver,
carefully prise the oil seal out of the right-hand
end of the cylinder head, then slide out the
camshaft (see illustrations). Discard the seal
- a new one must be used on refitting.

Inspection

Rocker arm assembly

10 Examine the rocker arm bearing surfaces

2C•8 TU series engine in-car repair procedures

10.4 Remove the circlip, and slide the

components off the end of the rocker shaft

10.5a To remove the left-hand pedestal,

lock two nuts together and unscrew the

stud . . .

10.5b . . . then remove the grub screw

which contact the camshaft lobes for wear
ridges and scoring. Renew any rocker arms on
which these conditions are apparent. If a
rocker arm bearing surface is badly scored,
also examine the corresponding lobe on the
camshaft for wear, as it is likely that both will be
worn. Renew worn components as necessary.
The rocker arm assembly can be dismantled as
described in paragraphs 4 and 5.
11 Inspect the ends of the (valve clearance)
adjusting screws for signs of wear or damage,
and renew as required.
12 If the rocker arm assembly has been
dismantled, examine the rocker arm and shaft
bearing surfaces for wear ridges and scoring.
If there are obvious signs of wear, the relevant
rocker arm(s) and/or the shaft must be
renewed.

Camshaft

13 Examine the camshaft bearing surfaces
and cam lobes for signs of wear ridges and
scoring. Renew the camshaft if any of these
conditions are apparent. Examine the
condition of the bearing surfaces, both on the
camshaft journals and in the cylinder head. If
the head bearing surfaces are worn
excessively, the cylinder head will need to be
renewed. If the necessary measuring
equipment is available, camshaft bearing
journal wear can be checked by direct
measurement, noting that No 1 journal is at
the transmission end of the head.
14 Examine the thrust fork for signs of wear
or scoring, and renew as necessary.

Refitting

Rocker arm assembly

15 If the rocker arm assembly was
dismantled, refit the rocker shaft to the left-
hand pedestal, aligning its locating hole with
the pedestal threaded hole. Refit the grub
screw, and tighten it securely. With the grub
screw in position, refit the cylinder head cover
mounting stud to the pedestal, and tighten it
securely. Apply a smear of clean engine oil to
the shaft, then slide on all removed
components, ensuring each is correctly fitted
in its original position. Once all components
are in position on the shaft, compress the
right-hand pedestal and refit the circlip.
Ensure that the circlip is correctly located in
its groove on the shaft.

16 Refit the cylinder head and rocker arm
assembly as described in Section 11.

Camshaft

17 Ensure that the cylinder head and
camshaft bearing surfaces are clean, then
liberally oil the camshaft bearings and lobes.
Slide the camshaft back into position in the
cylinder head. On carburettor engines, take
care that the fuel pump operating lever is not
trapped by the camshaft as it is slid into
position. To prevent this, remove the fuel
pump before refitting the camshaft, then refit
it afterwards.
18 Locate the thrust fork with the left-hand
end of the camshaft. Refit the fork retaining
bolt, tightening it to the specified torque
setting.
19 Ensure that the housing and cylinder head
mating surfaces are clean and dry, then apply a
smear of sealant to the housing mating surface.
Refit the housing to the left-hand end of the
head, and securely tighten its retaining bolts.
20 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with
clean engine oil, then drive it into position until
it seats on its locating shoulder. Use a
suitable tubular drift, such as a socket, which
bears only on the hard outer edge of the seal.
Take care not to damage the seal lips during
fitting. Note that the seal lips should face
inwards.
21 Refit the camshaft sprocket as described
in paragraphs 17 to 19 of Section 8.
22 Refit the cylinder head as described in
Section 11.

11 Cylinder head - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.
3 Remove the cylinder head cover as
described in Section 4.
4 Align the engine assembly/valve timing
holes as described in Section 3, and lock both
the camshaft sprocket and flywheel in
position. Do not attempt to rotate the engine
whilst the tools are in position.

5 Note that the following text assumes that
the cylinder head will be removed with both
inlet and exhaust manifolds attached; this is
easier, but makes it a bulky and heavy
assembly to handle. If it is wished to remove
the manifolds first, proceed as described in
the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
6 Working as described in the relevant Part of
Chapter 4, disconnect the exhaust system
front pipe from the manifold. Where fitted,
disconnect or release the oxygen sensor
wiring, so that it is not strained by the weight
of the exhaust.
7 Remove the air cleaner assembly and inlet
ducts as described in Chapter 4.
8 On carburettor engines, disconnect the
following from the carburettor and inlet
manifold as described in Chapter 4A:

a) Fuel feed and return hoses (plug all

openings, to prevent loss of fuel and the
entry of dirt into the system).

b) Throttle cable.
c) Choke cable (where applicable).
d) Carburettor idle fuel cut-off solenoid

wiring connector(s).

e) Vacuum servo unit vacuum hose, coolant

hose and all other relevant
breather/vacuum hoses from the
manifold.

9 On fuel-injected engines, carry out the
following operations as described in Chapter
4B:

a) Depressurise the fuel system, and

disconnect the fuel feed and return hoses
from the throttle body (plug all openings,
to prevent loss of fuel and entry of dirt
into the fuel system).

b) Disconnect the throttle cable.
c) Disconnect the relevant electrical

connectors from the throttle body.

d) Disconnect the vacuum servo unit hose,

coolant hose(s) and all the other
relevant/breather hoses from the
manifold.

10 Remove the centre and upper timing belt
covers as described in Section 6.
11 Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley
retaining nut. Pivot the pulley in a clockwise
direction, using a suitable square-section key
fitted to the hole in the pulley hub, then
retighten the retaining nut.

TU series engine in-car repair procedures 2C•9

10.8 Undo the retaining bolt and remove

the camshaft thrust fork (arrowed) . . .

10.9a . . . prise out the oil seal . . .

10.9b . . . and slide out the camshaft

12 Disengage the timing belt from the
camshaft sprocket, and position the belt clear
of the sprocket. Ensure that the belt is not
bent or twisted sharply.
13 Slacken the retaining clips, and
disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing (on the left-hand end of
the cylinder head).
14 Depress the retaining clip(s), and
disconnect the wiring connector(s) from the
electrical switch and/or sensor(s) which are
screwed into the thermostat housing/cylinder
head (as appropriate). Also where necessary
release the TDC sensor connector from its
support on the distributor bracket on the left-
hand end of the cylinder head.

Carburettor models

15 Disconnect the LT wiring connectors from
the distributor and HT coil. Release the TDC
sensor wiring connector from the side of the
coil mounting bracket, and disconnect the
vacuum pipe from the distributor vacuum
diaphragm unit. If the cylinder head is to be
dismantled for overhaul, remove the
distributor and ignition HT coil as described in
Chapter 5B. If the cylinder numbers are not
already marked on the HT leads, number each
lead, to avoid the possibility of the leads being
incorrectly connected on refitting. Disconnect
the HT leads from the spark plugs, and
remove the distributor cap and lead
assembly.

Fuel-injected models

16 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
ignition module. If the cylinder head is to be
dismantled for overhaul, remove the ignition
module as described in Chapter 5B. If the
cylinder numbers are not already marked on
the HT leads, number each lead, to avoid the
possibility of the leads being incorrectly
connected on refitting. Note that the HT leads
should be disconnected from the spark plugs
instead of the coil, and the coil and leads
removed as an assembly.

All models

17 Slacken and remove the bolt securing the
engine oil dipstick tube to the cylinder head.
18 Working in the reverse of the sequence
shown in illustration 11.38, progressively
slacken the ten cylinder head bolts by half a
turn at a time, until all bolts can be unscrewed
by hand.
19 With all the cylinder head bolts removed,
lift the rocker arm assembly off the cylinder
head. Note the locating pins which are fitted
to the base of each rocker arm pedestal. If
any pin is a loose fit in the head or pedestal,
remove it for safe-keeping.
20 On engines with a cast-iron cylinder
block, lift the cylinder head away; seek
assistance if possible, as it is a heavy
assembly, especially if it is being removed
complete with the manifolds.
21 On engines with an aluminium cylinder
block, the joint between the cylinder head and
gasket and the cylinder block/crankcase must

now be broken without disturbing the wet
liners. To break the joint, obtain two L-shaped
metal bars which fit into the cylinder head bolt
holes. Gently “rock” the cylinder head free
towards the front of the car (see illustration).
Do not try to swivel the head on the cylinder
block/crankcase; it is located by dowels, as
well as by the tops of the liners. Note: If care
is not taken and the liners are moved, there is
also a possibility of the bottom seals being
disturbed, causing leakage after refitting the
head. When the joint is broken, lift the cylinder
head away; seek assistance if possible, as it is
a heavy assembly, especially if it is being
removed complete with the manifolds.
22 On all models, remove the gasket from
the top of the block, noting the two locating
dowels. If the locating dowels are a loose fit,
remove them and store them with the head for
safe-keeping. Do not discard the gasket - on
some models it will be needed for
identification purposes (see paragraphs 28
and 29).
Caution: On aluminium block engines, Do
not attempt to rotate the crankshaft with
the cylinder head removed, otherwise the
wet liners may be displaced. Operations
that require the rotation of the crankshaft
(eg cleaning the piston crowns), should
only be carried out once the cylinder liners
are firmly clamped in position. In the
absence of the special Peugeot liner
clamps, the liners can be clamped in
position using large flat washers
positioned underneath suitable-length
bolts. Alternatively, the original head bolts
could be temporarily refitted, with suitable
spacers fitted to their shanks.
23 If the cylinder head is to be dismantled for
overhaul, remove the camshaft as described
in Section 10, then refer to Part D of this
Chapter.

Preparation for refitting

24 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block/crankcase must be perfectly
clean before refitting the head. Use a hard
plastic or wood scraper to remove all traces of
gasket and carbon; also clean the piston
crowns. Refer to paragraph 23 before turning
the crankshaft on aluminium block engines.
Take particular care during the cleaning
operations, as aluminium alloy is easily
damaged. Also, make sure that the carbon is
not allowed to enter the oil and water
passages - this is particularly important for the
lubrication system, as carbon could block the
oil supply to the engine’s components. Using
adhesive tape and paper, seal the water, oil
and bolt holes in the cylinder
block/crankcase. To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons and bores,
smear a little grease in the gap. After cleaning
each piston, use a small brush to remove all
traces of grease and carbon from the gap,
then wipe away the remainder with a clean
rag. Clean all the pistons in the same way.
25 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block/crankcase and the cylinder head for
nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If
slight, they may be removed carefully with a
file, but if excessive, machining may be the
only alternative to renewal.
26 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part D of this
Chapter if necessary.
27 When purchasing a new cylinder head
gasket, it is essential that a gasket of the
correct thickness is obtained. On some
models only one thickness of gasket is
available, so this is not a problem. However
on other models, there are two different
thicknesses available - the standard gasket

2C•10 TU series engine in-car repair procedures

11.21 Using two angled metal rods to free the cylinder head from the block

which is fitted at the factory, and a slightly
thicker “repair” gasket (+ 0.2 mm), for use
once the head gasket face has been
machined. If the cylinder head has been
machined, it should have the letter “R”
stamped adjacent to the No 3 exhaust port,
and the gasket should also have the letter “R”
stamped adjacent to No 3 cylinder on its front
upper face. The gaskets can also be identified
as described in the following paragraph, using
the cut-outs on the left-hand end of the
gasket.
28 With the gasket fitted the correct way up
on the cylinder block, there will be a single
cut-out, or no cut-out at all, at the rear of the
left-hand side of the gasket identifying the
engine type (ie. TU engine). In the centre of
the gasket there may be another series of
between 0 and 4 cut-outs, identifying the
manufacturer of the gasket and whether or
not it contains asbestos (these cut-outs are of
little importance). The important cut-out
location is at the front of the gasket; on the
standard gasket there will be no cut-out in this
position, whereas on the thicker “repair”
gasket there will be a single cut-out (see
illustration). Identify the gasket type, and
ensure that the new gasket obtained is of the
correct thickness. If there is any doubt as to
which gasket is fitted, take the old gasket
along to your Peugeot dealer, and have him
confirm the gasket type.
29 Check the condition of the cylinder head
bolts, and particularly their threads, whenever
they are removed. Wash the bolts in suitable
solvent, and wipe them dry. Check each for
any sign of visible wear or damage, renewing
any bolt if necessary. Measure the length of
each bolt, to check for stretching (although
this is not a conclusive test, in the event that
all ten bolts have stretched by the same
amount). Although Peugeot do not actually
specify that the bolts must be renewed, it is
strongly recommended that the bolts should
be renewed as a complete set whenever they
are disturbed.

30 On aluminium block engines, prior to
refitting the cylinder head, check the cylinder
liner protrusion as described in Part D of this
Chapter.

Refitting

31 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the
cylinder head and cylinder block/crankcase.
Check that the two locating dowels are in
position at each end of the cylinder
block/crankcase surface and, if necessary,
remove the cylinder liner clamps.
32 Position a new gasket on the cylinder
block/crankcase surface, ensuring that its
identification cut-outs are at the left-hand end
of the gasket.

33 Check that the flywheel and camshaft
sprocket are still correctly locked in position
with their respective tools then, with the aid of
an assistant, carefully refit the cylinder head
assembly to the block, aligning it with the
locating dowels.
34 Ensure that the locating pins are in
position in the base of each rocker pedestal,
then refit the rocker arm assembly to the
cylinder head.
35 Apply a smear of grease to the threads,
and to the underside of the heads, of the
cylinder head bolts. Peugeot recommend the
use of Molykote G Rapid Plus grease
(available from your Peugeot dealer - a sachet
is supplied with the top-end gasket set); in the
absence of the specified grease, a good-
quality high-melting-point grease may be
used.
36 Carefully enter each bolt into its relevant
hole (do not drop them in) and screw in, by
hand only, until finger-tight.
37 Working progressively and in the
sequence shown, tighten the cylinder head
bolts to their Stage 1 torque setting, using a
torque wrench and suitable socket (see
illustrations).
38 Once all the bolts have been tightened to
their Stage 1 setting, working again in the
given sequence, angle-tighten the bolts
through the specified Stage 2 angle, using a
socket and extension bar. It is recommended
that an angle-measuring gauge is used during
this stage of the tightening, to ensure accuracy
(see illustration). If a gauge is not available,
use white paint to make alignment marks
between the bolt head and cylinder head prior
to tightening; the marks can then be used to
check that the bolt has been rotated through
the correct angle during tightening.
39 On cast-iron block engines, it will then be
necessary to tighten the bolts through the
specified Stage 3 angle setting.
40 With the cylinder head bolts correctly
tightened, refit the dipstick tube retaining bolt
and tighten it securely.

TU series engine in-car repair procedures 2C•11

11.28 Cylinder head gasket markings

A Engine type identification cut-outs
B Gasket manufacturer identification cut-

outs

C Gasket thickness identification cut-out

11.37a Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

11.37b Working in the sequence, tighten the head bolts first with

a torque wrench . . .

41 Refit the timing belt to the camshaft
sprocket. Ensure that the “front run” of the
belt is taut - ie, ensure that any slack is on the
tensioner pulley side of the belt. Do not twist
the belt sharply while refitting it, and ensure
that the belt teeth are seated centrally in the
sprockets.
42 Loosen the tensioner pulley retaining nut.
Pivot the pulley anti-clockwise to remove all
free play from the timing belt, then retighten
the nut.
43 Tension the belt as described under the
relevant sub-heading in Section 7, then refit
the centre and upper timing belt covers as
described in Section 6.

Carburettor models

44 If the head was stripped for overhaul, refit
the distributor and HT coil as described in
Chapter 5B, ensuring that the HT leads are
correctly reconnected. If the head was not
stripped, reconnect the wiring connector and
vacuum pipe to the distributor, and the HT
lead to the coil; clip the TDC sensor wiring
connector onto the coil bracket.

Fuel-injected models

45 If the head was stripped for overhaul, refit
the ignition module and leads as described in
Chapter 5B, ensuring that the leads are
correctly reconnected. If the head was not
stripped, simply reconnect the wiring
connector to the module.

All models

46 Reconnect the wiring connector(s) to the
coolant switch/sensor(s) on the left-hand end
of the head.
47 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the
thermostat housing, securely tightening their
retaining clips.
48 Working as described in the relevant Part
of Chapter 4, carry out the following tasks:

a) Refit all disturbed wiring, hoses and

control cable(s) to the inlet manifold and
fuel system components.

b) Reconnect and adjust the choke and

throttle cables as applicable.

d) Reconnect the exhaust system front pipe

to the manifold. Where applicable,
reconnect the oxygen sensor wiring
connector.

e) Refit the air cleaner assembly and

ducting.

49 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve
clearances as described in Section 5.
50 On completion, reconnect the battery,
and refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.

12 Sump - removal and refitting

Removal

1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove
the front roadwheels. Disconnect the battery
negative lead.
2 Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit the
engine oil drain plug, tightening it to the
specified torque. If the engine is nearing its
service interval when the oil and filter are due
for renewal, it is recommended that the filter is
also removed, and a new one fitted. After
reassembly, the engine can then be refilled
with fresh oil. Refer to Chapter 1 for further
information.
3 Remove the exhaust system front pipe as
described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
4 Progressively slacken and remove all the
sump retaining nuts and bolts. On cast-iron
block engines, it may be necessary to unbolt
the flywheel cover plate from the transmission
to gain access to the left-hand sump
fasteners.
5 Break the joint by striking the sump with the
palm of your hand, then lower the sump and
withdraw it from underneath the vehicle (see
illustration).
6 While the sump is removed, take the
opportunity to check the oil pump pick-
up/strainer for signs of clogging or splitting. If
necessary, remove the pump as described in
Section 13, and clean or renew the strainer.

Refitting

7 Clean all traces of sealant from the mating
surfaces of the cylinder block/crankcase and
sump, then use a clean rag to wipe out the
sump and the engine’s interior.
8 Ensure that the sump and cylinder
block/crankcase mating surfaces are clean

and dry, then apply a coating of suitable
sealant to the sump mating surface.
9 Offer up the sump, locating it on its
retaining studs, and refit its retaining nuts and
bolts. Tighten the nuts and bolts evenly and
progressively to the specified torque.
10 Refit the exhaust front pipe as described
in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
11 Replenish the engine oil as described in
Chapter 1.

13 Oil pump - removal,

inspection and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the sump as described in Section 12.
2 Slacken and remove the three bolts
securing the oil pump in position (see
illustration). Disengage the pump sprocket
from the chain, and remove the oil pump. If
the pump locating dowel is a loose fit, remove
and store it with the retaining bolts for safe-
keeping.

Inspection

3 Examine the oil pump sprocket for signs of
damage and wear, such as chipped or missing
teeth. If the sprocket is worn, the pump
assembly must be renewed, as the sprocket is
not available separately. It is also
recommended that the chain and drive
sprocket, fitted to the crankshaft, is renewed at
the same time. On aluminium block engines,
renewal of the chain and drive sprocket is an
involved operation requiring the removal of the
main bearing ladder, and therefore cannot be
carried out with the engine still fitted to the
vehicle. On cast-iron block engines, the oil
pump drive sprocket and chain can be
removed with the engine in situ, once the
crankshaft sprocket has been removed and the
crankshaft oil seal housing has been unbolted.
Refer to Part D for further information.
4 Slacken and remove the bolts securing the
strainer cover to the pump body, then lift off
the strainer cover. Remove the relief valve
piston and spring (and guide pin - cast-iron
block engines only), noting which way round
they are fitted.

2C•12 TU series engine in-car repair procedures

11.38 . . . then with an angle tightening

gauge

12.5 Slacken and remove the sump nuts

and bolts, then remove the sump

13.2 The oil pump is retained by three

bolts

5 Examine the pump rotors and body for
signs of wear ridges and scoring. If worn, the
complete pump assembly must be renewed.
6 Examine the relief valve piston for signs of
wear or damage, and renew if necessary. The
condition of the relief valve spring can only be
measured by comparing it with a new one; if
there is any doubt about its condition, it
should also be renewed. Both the piston and
spring are available individually.
7 Thoroughly clean the oil pump strainer with
a suitable solvent, and check it for signs of
clogging or splitting. If the strainer is
damaged, the strainer and cover assembly
must be renewed.
8 Locate the relief valve spring, piston and
(where fitted) the guide pin in the strainer
cover, then refit the cover to the pump body.
Align the relief valve piston with its bore in the
pump. Refit the cover retaining bolts,
tightening them securely.

Refitting

9 Ensure that the locating dowel is in
position, then engage the pump sprocket with
its drive chain. Locate the pump on its dowel,
and refit the pump retaining bolts, tightening
them to the specified torque setting.
10 Refit the sump as described in Section 12.

14 Crankshaft oil seals -

renewal

Right-hand oil seal

1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and
flanged spacer as described in Section 8.
Secure the timing belt clear of the working
area, so that it cannot be contaminated with
oil. Make a note of the correct fitted depth of
the seal in its housing.
2 Punch or drill two small holes opposite
each other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping
screw into each, and pull on the screws with
pliers to extract the seal. Alternatively, the seal
can be levered out of position using a suitable
flat-bladed screwdriver, taking great care not
to damage the crankshaft shoulder or seal
housing (see illustration).
3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any

burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean
engine oil, and carefully locate the seal on the
end of crankshaft. Note that its sealing lip
must face inwards. Take care not to damage
the seal lips during fitting.
5 Using a suitable tubular drift (such as a
socket) which bears only on the hard outer
edge of the seal, tap the seal into position, to
the same depth in the housing as the original
was prior to removal. The inner face of the
seal must end up flush with the inner wall of
the crankcase.
6 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the
crankshaft sprocket as described in Section
8.

Left-hand oil seal

7 Remove the flywheel as described in
Section 15.
8 Make a note of the correct fitted depth of
the seal in its housing. Punch or drill two small
holes opposite each other in the seal. Screw a
self-tapping screw into each, and pull on the
screws with pliers to extract the seal.
9 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
10 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with
clean engine oil, and carefully locate the seal
on the end of the crankshaft.
11 Using a suitable tubular drift, which bears
only on the hard outer edge of the seal, drive
the seal into position, to the same depth in the
housing as the original was prior to removal.
12 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the
flywheel as described in Section 15.

15 Flywheel - removal,

inspection and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the transmission as described in
Chapter 7A, then remove the clutch assembly
as described in Chapter 6.
2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking
the ring gear teeth with a screwdriver or a
similar arrangement to that shown in
illustration 8.10. Alternatively, bolt a strap
between the flywheel and the cylinder
block/crankcase.

Do not attempt to lock the

flywheel in position using the locking pin
described in Section 3.
3 Slacken and remove the flywheel retaining
bolts, and discard them; they must be
renewed whenever they are disturbed.
4 Remove the flywheel. Do not drop it, as it is
very heavy. If the locating dowel is a loose fit
in the crankshaft end, remove and store it with
the flywheel for safe-keeping.

Inspection

5 If the flywheel’s clutch mating surface is
deeply scored, cracked or otherwise

damaged, the flywheel must be renewed.
However, it may be possible to have it
surface-ground; seek the advice of a Peugeot
dealer or engine reconditioning specialist.
6 If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing
teeth, it must be renewed. This job is best left
to a Peugeot dealer or engine reconditioning
specialist. The temperature to which the new
ring gear must be heated for installation is
critical and, if not done accurately, the
hardness of the teeth will be destroyed.

Refitting

7 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel
and crankshaft. Remove any remaining
locking compound from the threads of the
crankshaft holes, using the correct-size tap, if
available.

8 If the new flywheel retaining bolts are not
supplied with their threads already pre-
coated, apply a suitable thread-locking
compound to the threads of each bolt.
9 Ensure that the locating dowel is in
position. Offer up the flywheel, locating it on
the dowel, and fit the new retaining bolts.
10 Lock the flywheel using the method
employed on dismantling, and tighten the
retaining bolts to the specified torque.
11 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6.
Remove the locking tool, and refit the
transmission as described in Chapter 7A.

16 Engine/transmission

mountings - inspection and
renewal

Inspection

1 If improved access is required, raise the
front of the car and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
2 Check the mounting rubber to see if it is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal at any point; renew the mounting if any
such damage or deterioration is evident.
3 Check that all the mounting’s fasteners are
securely tightened; use a torque wrench to
check if possible.
4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar,
check for wear in the mounting by carefully
levering against it to check for free play. Where
this is not possible, enlist the aid of an assistant
to move the engine/transmission back and
forth, or from side to side, while you watch the
mounting. While some free play is to be
expected even from new components,
excessive wear should be obvious. If excessive
free play is found, check first that the fasteners
are correctly secured, then renew any worn
components as described below.

TU series engine in-car repair procedures 2C•13

14.2 Using a screwdriver to lever out the

crankshaft front oil seal

If a suitable tap is not
available, cut two slots into
the threads of one of the old
flywheel bolts and use the

bolt to remove the locking compound
from the threads.

Renewal

Right-hand mounting

5 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
6 Place a jack beneath the engine, with a
block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack
until it is supporting the weight of the engine.
7 Slacken and remove the three nuts
securing the right-hand engine mounting
upper bracket to the bracket on the cylinder
block. Remove the nut securing the bracket to
the mounting rubber, and lift off the bracket.
8 Lift the buffer plate off the mounting rubber
stud, then unscrew the mounting rubber from
the body.
9 Check carefully for signs of wear or damage
on all components, and renew them where
necessary.
10 On reassembly, securely tighten the
mounting rubber in the body.
11 Refit the buffer plate (where fitted) to the
mounting rubber stud, then install the
mounting bracket.
12 Tighten the mounting bracket retaining
nuts to the specified torque setting.
13 Remove the jack from underneath the
engine, and reconnect the battery negative
lead.

Left-hand mounting

14 Remove the battery and tray as described
in Chapter 5A.

15 Place a jack beneath the transmission,
with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise
the jack until it is supporting the weight of the
transmission.
16 Slacken and remove the mounting
rubber’s centre nut, and two retaining nuts
and remove the mounting from the engine
compartment.
17 If necessary, undo the two retaining bolts
and remove the mounting bracket from the
body. Disconnect the clutch cable from the
transmission (see Chapter 6) then unscrew
the retaining nuts and remove the bracket
from the top of the transmission.
18 Check carefully for signs of wear or
damage on all components, and renew them
where necessary.
19 Refit the bracket to the transmission,
tightening its mounting nuts to the specified
torque. Reconnect the clutch cable and adjust
as described in Chapter 6. Refit the mounting
bracket to the vehicle body and tighten its
bolts to the specified torque.
20 Fit the mounting rubber to the bracket and
tighten its retaining nuts to the specified
torque. Refit the mounting centre nut, and
tighten it to the specified torque.
21 Remove the jack from underneath the
transmission, then refit the battery as
described in Chapter 5.

Rear mounting

22 If not already done, firmly apply the
handbrake, then jack up the front of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
23 Unscrew and remove the bolt securing
the rear mounting link to the mounting on the
rear of the cylinder block.
24 Remove the bolt securing the rear
mounting link to the bracket on the
underbody. Withdraw the link.
25 To remove the mounting assembly it will
first be necessary to remove the right-hand
driveshaft as described in Chapter 8.
26 With the driveshaft removed, undo the
retaining bolts and remove the mounting from
the rear of the cylinder block.
27 Check carefully for signs of wear or
damage on all components, and renew them
where necessary.
28 On reassembly, fit the rear mounting
assembly to the rear of the cylinder block, and
tighten its retaining bolts to the specified
torque. Refit the driveshaft as described in
Chapter 8.
29 Refit the rear mounting link, and tighten
both its bolts to their specified torque
settings.
30 Lower the vehicle to the ground.

2C•14 TU series engine in-car repair procedures

Chapter 2 Part D:
Engine removal and overhaul procedures

Note: At the time of writing, many specifications for certain engines were not available. Where the relevant specifications are not given here, refer
to your Peugeot dealer for further information.

Cylinder head

Maximum gasket face distortion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.05 mm

Cylinder head height::

XV, XW and XY series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Not available

XU series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

141.0 ± 0.05 mm

TU series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

111.2 ± 0.08 mm

Valves

Valve head diameter:

Inlet:

XV8 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

34.8 mm

XW7, XY7 and XY8 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

37.0 mm

XU5J engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

40.0 mm

All other XU series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41.6 mm

TU9 series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

34.8 mm

TU1 series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

36.8 mm

TU3, TU3A, TU3M and TU3S engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

36.8 mm

TU3FM engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

39.5 mm

Exhaust:

XV8 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

27.8 mm

XW7, XY7 and XY8 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

29.5 mm

XU5J engines:

Early models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

32.0 mm

Later models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

32.95 mm

All other XU series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

34.5 mm

TU9 series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

27.9 mm

TU1 series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

29.4 mm

TU3, TU3A, TU3M and TU3S engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

29.4 mm

TU3FM engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

31.4 mm

Valve stem diameter:

Inlet:

XV, XW and XY series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8.0 mm

XU51 and XU5M series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7.30 mm

All other XU series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7.98 mm

TU series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6.99 mm

Crankshaft - refitting and main bearing running clearance check . . . 13
Crankshaft - removal and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Cylinder block/crankcase - cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Cylinder head - dismantling, cleaning, inspection and reassembly . 6
Engine - initial start-up after overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Engine/automatic transmission - removal, separation, reconnection

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Engine/manual transmission - removal, separation, reconnection and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Engine overhaul - preliminary information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Engine/transmission removal - preparation and precautions  . . . . . . 2
General information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Main and big-end bearings - inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Piston/connecting rod assembly - refitting and big-end bearing

running clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Piston/connecting rod assembly - removal and inspection . . . . . . . 7
Piston rings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

2D•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Content .. 7 8 9 10 ..