Peugeot 205 (954 cc, 1124 cc, 1360 cc, 1580 cc & 1905 cc). Manual - part 12

10 Repeat this procedure so that the
required bearing shell grade is obtained for
each of the five main bearing journals.
11 Seek the advice of your Peugeot dealer
on parts availability, and on the best course of
action when ordering new bearing shells.
Note:  On early models, at overhaul it is
recommended that the later bearing shell
arrangement is fitted. This, however, should
only be done if the lubrication system
components are upgraded (necessitating
replacement of the oil pump relief valve piston
and spring, as well as the pump sprocket and
drive chain) at the same time. If the new
bearing arrangement is to be used without
uprating the lubrication system, Peugeot state
that Blue (Class A) lower bearing shells should
be fitted. Refer to your Peugeot dealer for
further information.

TU series engines

12 As with the XU series engines described
previously, the TU aluminium block engine
originally had upper and lower bearing shells
of the same thickness, with only two sets of
bearing shell sizes available; standard and
oversize. On aluminium block engines from
mid-1993 onwards, and all cast-iron block
engines, to ensure that the main bearing
running clearance can be accurately set, there
are three different grades of bearing shell. The
grades are indicated by a colour-coding
marked on the edge of each shell, which
denotes the shell’s thickness, as listed in the
following table. The upper shell on all bearings
is of the same size (class B, colour code
black), and the running clearance is controlled
by fitting a lower bearing shell of the required
thickness. This later arrangement should also,
if possible, be fitted to earlier engines during
overhaul.

Aluminium block engine

Bearing colour 

Thickness (mm)

code

Standard

Undersize

Blue (class A)

1.823

1.973

Black (class B)

1.835

1.985

Green (class C)

1.848

1.998

Cast-iron block engine

Bearing colour 

Thickness (mm)

code

Standard

Undersize

Blue (class A)

1.844

1.994

Black (class B)

1.858

2.008

Green (class C)

1.869

2.019

13 New bearing shells can be selected using
the reference marks on the cylinder
block/crankcase. The cylinder block marks
identify the diameter of the bearing bores and
the crankshaft marks, the diameter of the
crankshaft journals. On early engines, the
correct size of bearing shell must be selected
by measuring the running clearance as
described under the sub-heading below.
14 The cylinder block reference marks are on
the right-hand (timing belt) end of the block,
and the crankshaft reference marks are on the
right-hand (timing belt) end of the crankshaft,

on the right-hand web of No 4 crankpin (see
illustration). These marks can be used to
select bearing shells of the required thickness
as follows.
15 On both the crankshaft and block there
are two lines of identification: a bar code,
which is used by Peugeot during production,
and a row of five letters. The first letter in the
sequence refers to the size of No 1 bearing (at
the flywheel/driveplate end). The last letter in
the sequence (which is followed by an arrow)
refers to the size of No 5 main bearing. These
marks can be used to select the required
bearing shell grade as follows.
16 Obtain the identification letter of both the
relevant crankshaft journal and the cylinder

block bearing bore. Noting that the cylinder
block letters are listed across the top of the
chart, and the crankshaft letters down the
side, trace a vertical line down from the
relevant cylinder block letter, and a horizontal
line across from the relevant crankshaft letter,
and find the point at which both lines cross.
This crossover point will indicate the grade of
lower bearing shell required to give the correct
main bearing running clearance. For example,
the illustration shows cylinder block reference
G, and crankshaft reference T, crossing at a
point within the area of Class A, indicating that
a blue-coded (Class A) lower bearing shell is
required to give the correct main bearing
running clearance (see illustration).

2D•18 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

13.14  Cylinder block and crankshaft main bearing reference markings - 

TU series engines

13.16  Main bearing shell selection chart - TU series engines

17 Repeat this procedure so that the
required bearing shell grade is obtained for
each of the five main bearing journals.
18 Seek the advice of your Peugeot dealer
for the latest information on parts availability
when ordering new bearing shells.

Main bearing running clearance
check

XU series engines

19 On early engines, if the modified bearing
shells are to be fitted, obtain a set of new
(Yellow) upper bearing shells and new Blue
(Class A) lower bearing shells. On later
(mid-1994 on) engines where the modified
bearing shells are already fitted, the running
clearance check can be carried out using the
original bearing shells, although it is
preferable to use a new set, since the results
obtained will be a lot more conclusive.
20 Clean the backs of the bearing shells, and
the bearing locations, in both the cylinder
block/crankcase and the main bearing caps.
21 Press the bearing shells into their locations,
ensuring that the tab on each shell engages in
the notch in the cylinder block/crankcase or
bearing cap, and taking care not to touch any
shell’s bearing surface with your fingers. There
is conflicting information from the manufacturer
on the exact placement of the grooved and
plain bearing shells, which appears to vary
according to engine code and model year.
Also, the bearing arrangement on the project
cars dismantled in the preparation of this
manual did not conform to the expected
placement, but no harm seemed to have
resulted. As a general recommendation, if the
old bearing shells are being used they must be
positioned in their original locations. If new
bearing shells are being used on early models,
fit the plain shells in all locations that had a
plain shell on removal, and likewise for the
grooved shells. From mid-1994 onwards, all
upper bearing shells are grooved, whereas all
lower shells are plain.

22 The running clearance can be checked in
either of two ways.
23 One method (which will be difficult to
achieve without a range of internal
micrometers or internal/external expanding
calipers) is to refit the main bearing caps to
the cylinder block/crankcase, with bearing
shells in place. With the cap retaining bolts
tightened to the specified torque, measure the
internal diameter of each assembled pair of
bearing shells. If the diameter of each
corresponding crankshaft journal is measured
and then subtracted from the bearing internal
diameter, the result will be the main bearing
running clearance.
24 The second (and more accurate) method
is to use a product known as Plastigage. This
consists of a fine thread of perfectly round
plastic, which is then compressed between
the bearing shell and the journal. When the
shell is removed, the plastic is deformed, and
can be measured with a specified card gauge
supplied with the kit. The running clearance is
determined from this gauge. Plastigage
should be available from your Peugeot dealer,
otherwise, enquiries at one of the larger
specialist quality motor factors should
produce the name of a stockist in your area.
The procedure for using Plastigage is as
follows.
25 With the main bearing upper shells in
place, carefully lay the crankshaft in position.
Do not use any lubricant; the crankshaft
journals and bearing shells must be perfectly
clean and dry.
26 Cut several lengths of the
appropriate-size Plastigage (they should be
slightly shorter than the width of the main
bearings), and place one length on each
crankshaft journal axis (see illustration).
27 With the main bearing lower shells in
position, refit the main bearing caps and
tighten their retaining bolts to the specified
torque. Take care not to disturb the
Plastigage, and do not rotate the crankshaft at
any time during this operation.

28 Remove the main bearing caps again,
taking great care not to disturb the Plastigage,
nor to rotate the crankshaft.
29 Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigage on each journal to the scale printed
on the Plastigage envelope, to obtain the main
bearing running clearance (see illustration).
Compare the clearance measured with that
given in the Specifications at the start of this
Chapter.
30 If the clearance is significantly different
from that expected, the bearing shells may be
the wrong size (or excessively worn, if the
original shells are being re-used). Before
deciding that different size shells are required,
make sure that no dirt or oil was trapped
between the bearing shells and the caps or
block when the clearance was measured. If
the Plastigage was wider at one end than at
the other, the crankshaft journal may be
tapered.
31 If the clearance is not as specified, use
the reading obtained, along with the shell
thicknesses quoted above, to calculate the
necessary grade of bearing shells required.
When calculating the bearing clearance
required, bear in mind that it is always better
to have the running clearance towards the
lower end of the specified range, to allow for
wear in use.
32 Where necessary, obtain the required
grades of bearing shell, and repeat the
running clearance checking procedure as
described above.
33 On completion, carefully scrape away all
traces of the Plastigage material from the
crankshaft and bearing shells, using a
fingernail or other object which is unlikely to
score the bearing surfaces.

TU series aluminium block engines

34 The procedure is similar to that described
in paragraphs 20 to 33, except that the lower
shells are fitted to the main bearing ladder
instead of the individual bearing caps. On early
engines, if the modified bearing shells are to

Engine removal and overhaul procedures  2D•19

2D

13.26  Plastigage in place on a crankshaft main bearing journal

13.29  Measure the width of the deformed Plastigage using the

scale on the card

be fitted, obtain a set of new Black (Class B)
upper bearing shells and new Blue (Class A)
lower bearing shells. On later (mid-1993 on)
engines where the modified bearing shells are
already fitted, the running clearance check can
be carried out using the original bearing shells,
although it is preferable to use a new set as
described above, since the results obtained
will be a lot more conclusive. Note that on
most models, all the bearing shells are plain
except those fitted to journals 2 and 4 which
are grooved. Some engines, however, may
have a grooved bearing shell fitted to the
upper (cylinder block) location of No 5 main
bearing. Fit the ladder, tighten the bolts to the
specified torque and carry out the running
clearance check.

TU series cast-iron block engines

35 The procedure is similar to that described
in paragraphs 20 to 33 except that all the
bearing shells are plain except those fitted to
journals 2 and 4 which are grooved.

Final crankshaft refitting

XV, XW and XY series engines

36 Due to the arrangement of the split
crankcase it is necessary to have the pistons,
and connecting rods in place in the block
before refitting the crankshaft. Carry out the
operations described in Section 14, then
proceed as follows.
37 Place the bearing shells in their locations
as described earlier. If new shells are being

fitted, ensure that all traces of protective
grease are cleaned off using paraffin. Wipe
dry the shells with a lint-free cloth. Liberally
lubricate each bearing shell in the cylinder
block/crankcase with clean engine oil.
38 Fit the semi-circular thrustwashers which
control crankshaft endfloat. The oil grooves of
the thrustwashers must be against the
machined face of the crankshaft (see
illustration).
39 Oil the shell bearings and lower the
crankshaft into position (see illustration).
40 Reconnect the connecting rods to the
crankshaft as described in Section 14.
41 Fit a new O-ring seal to the crankcase
flange and check that the locating dowels are
in position (see illustration).
42 Apply jointing compound to the flange.
43 Clean the recesses in the remaining
crankcase housing section and fit the main
bearing shells. Note that the grooved shells
are located in positions 2 and 4.
44 Locate the housing, taking care not to
displace the bearing shells.
45 Screw in the ten main bearing/casing
bolts with flat washers; noting that the two
longer bolts are at the flywheel housing end
and the very long one at the crankshaft pulley
end on the oil pump side (see illustration).
46 Tighten the bolts in the sequence given in
two stages to the specified torque (see
illustration).
47 Now screw in and tighten the seven
casing flange bolts with their spring washers
(see illustration).

48 Fit a new crankshaft rear oil seal as
described in Part A of this Chapter.
49 Where removed, fit the cylinder head, as
described in Part A.

XU series engines

50 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the
cylinder block once more.
51 Using a little grease, stick the upper
thrustwashers to each side of the No 2 main
bearing upper location. Ensure that the oilway
grooves on each thrustwasher face outwards
(away from the cylinder block) (see illustration).
52 Place the bearing shells in their locations
as described earlier. If new shells are being
fitted, ensure that all traces of protective
grease are cleaned off using paraffin. Wipe
dry the shells and connecting rods with a lint-
free cloth. Liberally lubricate each bearing
shell in the cylinder block/crankcase and cap
with clean engine oil.

2D•20 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

13.38  Crankshaft thrustwashers - 

XV, XW and XY series engines

13.39  Lowering the crankshaft into place

13.41  Crankcase flange O-ring seal

13.46  Main bearing/casing bolt tightening sequence - XV, XW and XY series engines

R   Oil grooves

13.45  Tightening the main bearing/casing

bolts

13.47  Refit the casing flange bolts and

washers

53 Lower the crankshaft into position so that
Nos 2 and 3 cylinder crankpins are at TDC;
Nos 1 and 4 cylinder crankpins will be at BDC,
ready for fitting No 1 piston.
54 Lubricate the lower bearing shells in the
main bearing caps with clean engine oil. Make
sure that the locating lugs on the shells
engage with the corresponding recesses in
the caps.
55 Fit main bearing caps Nos 2 to 5 to their
correct locations, ensuring that they are fitted
the correct way round (the bearing shell tab
recesses in the block and caps must be on
the same side). Insert the bolts/nuts,
tightening them only loosely at this stage.
56 Apply a small amount of sealant to the No
1 main bearing cap mating face on the
cylinder block, around the sealing strip holes
(see illustration).
57 Locate the tab of each sealing strip over
the pins on the base of No 1 bearing cap, and
press the strips into the bearing cap grooves
(see illustration). It is now necessary to
obtain two thin metal strips, of 0.25 mm
thickness or less, in order to prevent the strips
moving when the cap is being fitted. Peugeot
garages use a special tool, which acts as a
clamp. Metal strips (such as old feeler blades)
can be used, provided all burrs which may
damage the sealing strips are first removed.
58 Where applicable, oil both sides of the
metal strips, and hold them on the sealing
strips. Fit the No 1 main bearing cap, insert
the bolts loosely, then carefully pull out the
metal strips in a horizontal direction, using a
pair of pliers if necessary (see illustration).

59 Tighten all the main bearing cap
bolts/nuts evenly to the specified torque.
Using a sharp knife, trim off the ends of the
No 1 bearing cap sealing strips, so that they
protrude above the cylinder block/crankcase
mating surface by approximately 1 mm
60 Refit the centre main bearing side
retaining bolts and sealing washers (one at the
front of the block, and one at the rear) and
tighten them both to the specified torque (see
illustration).
61 Fit a new crankshaft rear oil seal as
described in Part B of this Chapter.
62 Refit the piston/connecting rod
assemblies to the crankshaft as described in
Section 14.
63 Refit the Woodruff key, then slide on the
oil pump drive sprocket and spacer (where
fitted), and locate the drive chain on the
sprocket.
64 Ensure that the mating surfaces of the
front oil seal carrier and cylinder block are
clean and dry. Note the correct fitted depth of
the oil seal then, using a large flat-bladed
screwdriver, lever the old seal out of the
housing.
65 Apply a smear of suitable sealant to the oil
seal carrier mating surface. Ensure that the
locating dowels are in position, then slide the
carrier over the end of the crankshaft and into
position on the cylinder block. Tighten the
carrier retaining bolts to the specified torque.
66 Fit a new crankshaft front oil seal as
described in Part B of this Chapter.
67 Ensuring that the drive chain is correctly
located on the sprocket, refit the oil pump and

sump as described in Part B of this Chapter.
68 Where removed, refit the cylinder head as
described in Part B.

TU series aluminium block engines

69 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the
cylinder block once more.
70 Using a little grease, stick the upper
thrustwashers to each side of the No 2 main
bearing upper location; ensure that the oilway
grooves on each thrustwasher face outwards
(away from the cylinder block) (see
illustration).
71 Place the bearing shells in their locations
as described earlier. If new shells are being
fitted, ensure that all traces of protective
grease are cleaned off using paraffin. Wipe
dry the shells and connecting rods with a lint-
free cloth. Liberally lubricate each bearing
shell in the cylinder block/crankcase with
clean engine oil (see illustration).

Engine removal and overhaul procedures  2D•21

2D

13.51  Fitting the thrustwasher upper

segments - XU series engines

13.56  Applying sealant to the cylinder

block No 1 main bearing cap mating face

13.57  Fitting a sealing strip to No 1 main

bearing cap

13.60  Refit and tighten the centre main

bearing side bolts

13.58  Using feeler blades to protect the

sealing strips as the cap is fitted

13.70  Refitting a crankshaft thrustwasher

- TU series aluminium block engine

13.71  Ensure each bearing shell tab (arrowed)

is correctly located and apply clean oil

72 Refit the Woodruff key, then slide on the
oil pump drive sprocket, and locate the drive
chain on the sprocket (see illustration).
Lower the crankshaft into position so that Nos
2 and 3 cylinder crankpins are at TDC; Nos 1
and 4 cylinder crankpins will be at BDC, ready
for fitting No 1 piston.
73 Thoroughly degrease the mating surfaces
of the cylinder block/crankcase and the main
bearing ladder. Apply a thin bead of suitable
sealant to the cylinder block/crankcase
mating surface of the main bearing ladder
casting, then spread to an even film (see
illustration).
74 Lubricate the lower bearing shells with
clean engine oil, then refit the main bearing
ladder, ensuring that the shells are not
displaced, and that the locating dowels
engage correctly (see illustration).

75 Install the ten 11 mm main bearing ladder
retaining bolts, and tighten them all by hand
only. Working progressively outwards from
the centre bolts, tighten the ten bolts, by a
turn at a time, to the specified Stage 1 torque
wrench setting. Once all the bolts have been
tightened to the Stage 1 setting, angle-tighten
the bolts through the specified Stage 2 angle
using a socket and extension bar. It is
recommended that an angle-measuring
gauge is used during this stage of the
tightening, to ensure accuracy (see
illustrations). If a gauge is not available, use a
dab of white paint to make alignment marks
between the bolt head and casting prior to
tightening; the marks can then be used to
check that the bolt has been rotated
sufficiently during tightening.
76 Refit all the 6 mm bolts securing the main

bearing ladder to the base of the cylinder
block, and tighten them to the specified
torque. Check that the crankshaft rotates
freely. On engines with a grooved bearing
shell fitted to the upper (cylinder block)
location of No 5 main bearing, working on one
bolt at a time starting with the centre and
working progressively outwards, loosen the
11 mm main bearing ladder retaining bolts,
and then tighten to the Stage 3 and then
Stage 4 torque wrench settings.
77 Refit the piston/connecting rod
assemblies to the crankshaft as described in
Section 14.
78 Ensuring that the drive chain is correctly
located on the sprocket, refit the oil pump and
sump as described in Part A of this Chapter.
79 Fit two new crankshaft oil seals as
described in Part A.
80 Refit the flywheel as described in Part A of
this Chapter.
81 Where removed, refit the cylinder head as
described in Part A. Also refit the crankshaft
sprocket and timing belt as described in Part
A.

TU series cast-iron block engines

82 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the
cylinder block once more.
83 Using a little grease, stick the upper
thrustwashers to each side of the No 2 main
bearing upper location. Ensure that the oilway
grooves on each thrustwasher face outwards
(away from the cylinder block) (see
illustration).
84 Place the bearing shells in their locations
as described earlier (see illustration). If new
shells are being fitted, ensure that all traces of
protective grease are cleaned off using
paraffin. Wipe dry the shells and connecting
rods with a lint-free cloth. Liberally lubricate
each bearing shell in the cylinder
block/crankcase and cap with clean engine oil.
85 Lower the crankshaft into position so that
Nos 2 and 3 cylinder crankpins are at TDC;
Nos 1 and 4 cylinder crankpins will be at BDC,
ready for fitting No 1 piston.
86 Lubricate the lower bearing shells in the
main bearing caps with clean engine oil. Make
sure that the locating lugs on the shells
engage with the corresponding recesses in
the caps.

2D•22 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

13.72  Refitting the oil pump drive chain

and sprocket

13.73  Apply a thin film of sealant to the

cylinder block/crankcase mating face . . .

13.74  . . . then lower the main bearing

ladder into position

13.75a  Tighten the 11 mm main bearing

bolts to the Stage 1 torque setting . . .

13.75b  . . . then angle-tighten them

through the specified Stage 2 angle

13.83  Fitting a thrustwasher to No 2 main

bearing upper location - TU series cast

iron block engines

13.84  Ensure that the tab (arrowed) is

correctly located in the cap when fitting

the bearing shells

87 Fit the main bearing caps to their correct
locations, ensuring that they are fitted the
correct way round (the bearing shell lug
recesses in the block and caps must be on
the same side). Insert the bolts loosely.
88 Tighten the main bearing cap bolts to the
specified Stage 1 torque wrench setting.
Once all the bolts have been tightened to the
Stage 1 setting, angle-tighten the bolts
through the specified Stage 2 angle, using a
socket and extension bar. It is recommended
that an angle-measuring gauge is used during
this stage of the tightening, to ensure
accuracy. If a gauge is not available, use a
dab of white paint to make alignment marks
between the bolt head and casting prior to
tightening; the marks can then be used to
check that the bolt has been rotated
sufficiently during tightening.
89 Check that the crankshaft rotates freely.
90 Refit the piston/connecting rod
assemblies to the crankshaft as described in
Section 14.
91 Refit the Woodruff key to the crankshaft
groove, and slide on the oil pump drive
sprocket. Locate the drive chain on the
sprocket.
92 Ensure that the mating surfaces of front
oil seal housing and cylinder block are clean
and dry. Note the correct fitted depth of the
front oil seal then, using a large flat-bladed
screwdriver, lever the seal out of the housing.
93 Apply a smear of suitable sealant to the oil
seal housing mating surface, and make sure
that the locating dowels are in position. Slide
the housing over the end of the crankshaft,
and into position on the cylinder block.
Tighten the housing retaining bolts securely.
94 Repeat the operations in paragraphs 92
and 93, and fit the rear oil seal housing.
95 Fit a new front and rear crankshaft oil seal
as described in Part C of this Chapter.
96 Ensuring that the chain is correctly
located on the drive sprocket, refit the oil
pump and sump as described in Part C of this
Chapter.
97 Refit the flywheel as described in Part C of
this Chapter.
98 Where removed, refit the cylinder head
and install the crankshaft sprocket and timing
belt as described in the relevant Sections of
Part C.

14 Piston/connecting rod

assembly - refitting and big-
end bearing clearance check

4

Selection of bearing shells

1 On most engines, there are two sizes of
big-end bearing shell produced by Peugeot; a
standard size for use with the standard
crankshaft, and an oversize for use once the
crankshaft journals have been reground.
2 Consult your Peugeot dealer for the latest
information on parts availability. To be safe,
always quote the diameter of the crankshaft
big-end crankpins when ordering bearing
shells.
3 Prior to refitting the piston/connecting rod
assemblies, it is recommended that the big-
end bearing running clearance is checked as
follows.

Big-end bearing running
clearance check

4 Clean the backs of the bearing shells, and
the bearing locations in both the connecting
rod and bearing cap.
5 Press the bearing shells into their locations,
ensuring that the tab on each shell engages in
the notch in the connecting rod and cap. Take
care not to touch any shell’s bearing surface
with your fingers (see illustration). If the
original bearing shells are being used for the
check, ensure that they are refitted in their
original locations. The clearance can be
checked in either of two ways.
6 One method is to refit the big-end bearing
cap to the connecting rod, ensuring that they
are fitted the correct way around (see
paragraph 21), with the bearing shells in
place. With the cap retaining nuts correctly
tightened, use an internal micrometer or
vernier caliper to measure the internal
diameter of each assembled pair of bearing
shells. If the diameter of each corresponding
crankshaft journal is measured and then
subtracted from the bearing internal diameter,
the result will be the big-end bearing running
clearance.
7 The second, and more accurate method is
to use Plastigage (see Section 13).
8 Ensure that the bearing shells are correctly
fitted. Place a strand of Plastigage on each
(cleaned) crankpin journal.
9 Refit the (clean) piston/connecting rod
assemblies to the crankshaft, and refit the
big-end bearing caps, using the marks made
or noted on removal to ensure that they are
fitted the correct way around.
10 Tighten the bearing cap nuts as described
below in paragraph 22 or 23 (as applicable).
Take care not to disturb the Plastigage, nor
rotate the connecting rod during the
tightening sequence.
11 Dismantle the assemblies without rotating
the connecting rods. Use the scale printed on
the Plastigage envelope to obtain the big-end
bearing running clearance.

12 If the clearance is significantly different
from that expected, the bearing shells may be
the wrong size (or excessively worn, if the
original shells are being re-used). Make sure
that no dirt or oil was trapped between the
bearing shells and the caps or block when the
clearance was measured. If the Plastigage
was wider at one end than at the other, the
crankshaft journal may be tapered.
13 Note that Peugeot do not specify a
recommended big-end bearing running
clearance. The figure given in the
Specifications is a guide figure, which is
typical for this type of engine. Before
condemning the components concerned,
refer to your Peugeot dealer or engine
reconditioning specialist for further
information on the specified running
clearance. Their advice on the best course of
action to be taken can then also be obtained.
14 On completion, carefully scrape away all
traces of the Plastigage material from the
crankshaft and bearing shells. Use your
fingernail, or some other object which is
unlikely to score the bearing surfaces.

Final piston/connecting rod
refitting

15 Note that the following procedure
assumes that the cylinder liners (where fitted)
are in position in the cylinder block/crankcase
as described in Section 9, and that on XU and
TU series engines, the crankshaft and main
bearing ladder/caps are in place (see Section
13). On XV, XW and XY series engines, do not
fit the crankshaft until all the
piston/connecting rod assemblies have been
inserted.
16 Ensure that the bearing shells are
correctly fitted as described earlier. If new
shells are being fitted, ensure that all traces of
the protective grease are cleaned off using
paraffin. Wipe dry the shells and connecting
rods with a lint-free cloth.
17 Lubricate the cylinder bores, the pistons,
and piston rings, then lay out each
piston/connecting rod assembly in its
respective position.
18 Start with assembly No 1. Make sure that
the piston rings are still spaced as described
in Section 12, then clamp them in position
with a piston ring compressor.
19 Insert the piston/connecting rod assembly
into the top of cylinder/liner No 1. Ensure that
the arrow on the piston crown is pointing
towards the timing chain/belt end of the
engine. Using a block of wood or hammer
handle against the piston crown, tap the
assembly into the cylinder/liner until the
piston crown is flush with the top of the
cylinder/liner (see illustration).
20 On XV, XW and XY series engines, refit
the remaining three piston/connecting rod
assemblies in the same way. The crankshaft
should then be placed in position in the
crankcase as described in Section 13.
21 Ensure that the bearing shell is still
correctly installed. Liberally lubricate the

Engine removal and overhaul procedures  2D•23

2D

14.5 Ensure that the tab (arrowed) is

correctly located in the connecting rod

when fitting the bearing shells

crankpin and both bearing shells. Taking care
not to mark the cylinder/liner bores, pull the
piston/connecting rod assembly down the
bore and onto the crankpin. Refit the big-end
bearing cap, tightening its retaining nuts
finger-tight at first. Note that the faces with
the identification marks must match (which
means that the bearing shell locating tabs
abut each other).
22 On XV, XW, XY and TU series engines,
tighten the bearing cap retaining nuts evenly
and progressively to the specified torque
setting (see illustration).
23 On XU series engines, tighten the bearing
cap retaining nuts evenly and progressively to
the Stage 1 torque setting. Fully slacken both
nuts, then tighten them to the Stage 2 torque
setting. Once both nuts have been tightened
to the Stage 2 setting, angle-tighten them
through the specified Stage 3 angle, using a
socket and extension bar. It is recommended
that an angle-measuring gauge is used during
this stage of the tightening, to ensure
accuracy (see illustration). If a gauge is not
available, use a dab of white paint to make
alignment marks between the nut and bearing
cap prior to tightening; the marks can then be
used to check that the nut has been rotated
sufficiently during tightening.
24 On XU and TU series engines, once the
bearing cap retaining nuts have been correctly
tightened, rotate the crankshaft. Check that it
turns freely; some stiffness is to be expected
if new components have been fitted, but there
should be no signs of binding or tight spots.
25 On XU and TU series engines, refit the

remaining three piston/connecting rod
assemblies in the same way.
26 On XV, XW and XY series engines,
continue the crankshaft refitting procedure
described in Section 13. On all other engines,
refit the cylinder head and oil pump as
described in Part B or C of this Chapter (as
applicable).

15 Engine - initial start-up after

overhaul

1 With the engine refitted in the vehicle,
double-check the engine oil and coolant
levels. Make a final check that everything has
been reconnected, and that there are no tools
or rags left in the engine compartment.
2 Remove the spark plugs. On models with a
distributor, disable the ignition system by
disconnecting the ignition HT coil lead from
the distributor cap, and earthing it on the
cylinder block. Use a jumper lead or similar
wire to make a good connection. On models
with a static (distributorless) ignition system,
disable the ignition system by disconnecting
the LT wiring connector from the ignition
module, referring to Chapter 5B for further
information.
3 Turn the engine on the starter until the oil
pressure warning light goes out. Refit the
spark plugs, and reconnect the spark plug
(HT) leads, referring to Chapter 1 for further
information. Reconnect any HT leads or wiring
which was disconnected in paragraph 2.

4 Start the engine, noting that this may take a
little longer than usual, due to the fuel system
components having been disturbed.
5 While the engine is idling, check for fuel,
water and oil leaks. Don’t be alarmed if there
are some odd smells and smoke from parts
getting hot and burning off oil deposits.
6 Assuming all is well, keep the engine idling
until hot water is felt circulating through the
top hose, then switch off the engine.
7 Check the ignition timing and the idle speed
settings (as appropriate), then switch the
engine off.
8 After a few minutes, recheck the oil and
coolant levels as described in Chapter 1, and
top-up as necessary.
9 On XV, XW and XY series engines, and XU
series engines with hexagon type cylinder
head bolts, it will be necessary to re-tighten
the head bolts after the engine has been run
up to normal working temperature then
switched off and allowed to cool (see Part A
and B of this Chapter, as applicable). On all
other engines, if they were tightened as
described, there is no need to re-tighten the
cylinder head bolts once the engine has first
run after reassembly.
10 If new pistons, rings or crankshaft
bearings have been fitted, the engine must be
treated as new, and run-in for the first 500
miles (800 km). Do not operate the engine at
full-throttle, or allow it to labour at low engine
speeds in any gear. It is recommended that
the oil and filter be changed at the end of this
period.

2D•24 Engine removal and overhaul procedures

14.19  Tap the piston into the bore using a

hammer handle

14.22  Tightening a big-end bearing cap

nut using a torque wrench . . .

14.23  . . . and further, on XU series

engines, through the specified angle using

an angle tightening gauge

3

Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

General

System type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Pressurised with expansion tank/bottle and front-mounted radiator,
electric cooling fan, coolant pump and thermostat

Pressure cap setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.8 or 1.0 bar (according to engine)

Thermostat

Start-to-open temperature:

XV, XW and XY series engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

79° to 82°C

XU series engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

82°C

TU9 series, TU3 series and TU1 series (Van) engines  . . . . . . . . . . . .

88°C

TU1 series (except Van) engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

83°C

Fully-open temperature:

XU, XV, XW and XY series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

93°C

TU9 series, TU3 series and TU1 series (Van) engines  . . . . . . . . . . . .

102°C

TU1 series (except Van) engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

96°C

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Coolant pump attachments:

XV, XW, and XY series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

13

10

XU series engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

15

11

TU series engines:

Housing inlet elbow (aluminium block engines)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

6

Housing bolts (aluminium block engines):

Small bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

30

22

Large bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50

37

Coolant pump bolts (cast-iron block engines):  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

15

11

Air conditioning system check  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Air conditioning system - general information and precautions  . . . . 10
Antifreeze - general information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Coolant level check  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly checks”
Coolant pump - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Cooling system - draining  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Cooling system - filling  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Cooling system - flushing  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Cooling system electrical switches and sensors - removal 

and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Cooling system hoses - disconnection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
General information and precautions  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Heater assembly - removal, dismantling, reassembly and refitting . . 9
Radiator - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Radiator cooling fan - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

3•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1