Peugeot 405. Manual - part 50

 

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Peugeot 405. Manual - part 50

 

 

avoid damage to the finish. Always check that
the door and ventilator opening drain holes
and pipes are completely clear, so that water
can be drained out. Brightwork should be
treated in the same way as paintwork.
Windscreens and windows can be kept clear
of the smeary film which often appears, by the
use of proprietary glass cleaner. Never use
any form of wax or other body or chromium
polish on glass.

3

Maintenance 
upholstery and carpets

1

Mats and carpets should be brushed or

vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free
of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,
and make quite sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be
kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they
do become stained (which can be more
apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a
little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to
scour the grime out of the grain of the
material. Do not forget to keep the headlining
clean in the same way as the upholstery.
When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle,
do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned.
Excessive damp could get into the seams and
padded interior, causing stains, offensive
odours or even rot. If the inside of the vehicle
gets wet accidentally, it is worthwhile taking
some trouble to dry it out properly, particularly
where carpets are involved. Do not leave oil or
electric heaters inside the vehicle for this
purpose.

4

Minor body damage - repair

2

Repairs of 
minor scratches in bodywork

If the scratch is very superficial, and does

not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint
from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.

Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a

fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.

Where the scratch has penetrated right

through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique

is required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint, to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners, to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of
the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.

Repairs of dents in bodywork

When deep denting of the vehicle’s

bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is
better to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 3 mm below the level of
the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being
“belled-out”.

Should the dent be in a section of the

bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.

The next stage of the repair is the removal

of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a really good “key” for
the filler paste.

To complete the repair, see the Section on

filling and respraying.

Repairs of rust holes 
or gashes in bodywork

Remove all paint from the affected area,

and from an inch or so of the surrounding
“sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a
wire brush on a power drill. If these are not
available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job most effectively. With the paint
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide
whether to renew the whole panel (if this is
possible) or to repair the affected area. New
body panels are not as expensive as most
people think, and it is often quicker and more
satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt
to repair large areas of corrosion.

Remove all fittings from the affected area,

except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlamp shells etc). Then, using tin snips or
a hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in
order to create a slight depression for the filler
paste.

Wire-brush the affected area to remove the

powdery rust from the surface of the
remaining metal. Paint the affected area with
rust-inhibiting paint; if the back of the rusted
area is accessible, treat this also.

Before filling can take place, it will be

necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.

Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre

matting is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.

Aluminium tape should be used for small or

very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim
it to the approximate size and shape required,
then pull off the backing paper (if used) and
stick the tape over the hole; it can be
overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.

Bodywork repairs - 
filling and respraying

Before using this Section, see the Sections

on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.

Many types of bodyfiller are available, but

generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair.
A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will
be found invaluable for imparting a smooth
and well-contoured finish to the surface of the
filler.

11•2 Bodywork and fittings

Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card

or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long, the paste will become sticky and begin
to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to
add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute
intervals, until the level of the filler is just
proud of the surrounding bodywork.

Once the filler has hardened, the excess

can be removed using a metal plane or file.
From then on, progressively-finer grades of
abrasive paper should be used, starting with a
40-grade production paper, and finishing with
a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of
the filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-
dry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.

At this stage, the “dent” should be

surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.

Spray the whole area with a light coat of

primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is
used, it can be mixed with cellulose thinners,
to form a really thin paste which is ideal for
filling small holes. Repeat this spray-and-
repair procedure until you are satisfied that
the surface of the filler, and the feathered
edge of the paintwork, are perfect. Clean the
repair area with clean water, and allow to dry
fully.

The repair area is now ready for final

spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations.

Before commencing to spray, agitate the

aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint, rather
than one thick one. Using 400 grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused with
water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint.

Spray on the top coat, again building up the

thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying in the centre of the repair area,
and then, using a circular motion, work
outwards until the whole repair area and
about 2 inches of the surrounding original
paintwork is covered. Remove all masking
material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on
the final coat of paint.

Allow the new paint at least two weeks to

harden, then, using a paintwork renovator or a
very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the
paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply
wax polish.

Plastic components

With the use of more and more plastic body

components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg
bumpers. spoilers, and in some cases major
body panels), rectification of more serious
damage to such items has become a matter
of either entrusting repair work to a specialist
in this field, or renewing complete
components. Repair of such damage by the
DIY owner is not really feasible, owing to the
cost of the equipment and materials required
for effecting such repairs. The basic technique
involves making a groove along the line of the
crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in a
power drill. The damaged part is then welded
back together, using a hot air gun to heat up
and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.
Any excess plastic is then removed, and the
area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is
important that a filler rod of the correct plastic
is used, as body components can be made of
a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,
ABS, polypropylene).

Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,

minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair.
Once mixed in equal parts, this is used in
similar fashion to the bodywork filler used on
metal panels. The filler is usually cured in
twenty to thirty minutes, ready for sanding
and painting.

If the owner is renewing a complete

component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will be left with the
problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing
which is compatible with the type of plastic
used. At one time, the use of a universal paint
was not possible, owing to the complex range
of plastics encountered in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally

speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber
satisfactorily, but suitable paints to match any
plastic or rubber finish, can be obtained from
dealers. However, it is now possible to obtain
a plastic body parts finishing kit which
consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer
and coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the
method of use is to first apply the pre-primer
to the component concerned, and allow it to
dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is
applied, and left to dry for about an hour
before finally applying the special-coloured
top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured
component, where the paint will flex with the
plastic or rubber, a property that standard
paint does not normally posses.

5

Major body damage - repair

5

Where serious damage has occurred, or

large areas need renewal due to neglect, it
means that complete new panels will need
welding-in, and this is best left to
professionals. If the damage is due to impact,
it will also be necessary to check completely
the alignment of the bodyshell, and this can
only be carried out accurately by a Peugeot
dealer using special jigs. If the body is left
misaligned, it is primarily dangerous, as the
car will not handle properly, and secondly,
uneven stresses will be imposed on the
steering, suspension and possibly
transmission, causing abnormal wear, or
complete failure, particularly to such items as
the tyres.

6

Front bumper 
removal and refitting

2

Removal

Working at the bottom of the bumper,
remove the three lower bumper securing
screws (see illustration).
Working on one side of the vehicle, remove
the three screws securing the outer edge of
the wheel arch liner, then pull the liner back
from the bumper.

Bodywork and fittings  11•3

11

6.1  Front bumper lower securing screw

Unscrew the two bumper front securing
nuts (see illustration).
Unscrew the bolt securing the side of the
bumper to the wing panel (see illustration).
Repeat the procedure in paragraphs 2 to 4
on the remaining side of the vehicle.
Pull the bumper forwards and, where
applicable, disconnect the front foglight wiring
harness and/or the headlight washer fluid
hose. Note the routing of the wiring and/or
hose.
Remove the bumper.

Refitting

Refitting is a reversal of removal but, where
applicable, ensure that the foglight wiring
and/or washer fluid hose are correctly routed.

7

Rear bumper 
removal and refitting

2

Saloon models

Removal

To improve access, chock the front wheels,
then jack up the rear of the vehicle and
support securely on axle stands (see “Jacking
and Vehicle Support”
).
Remove the fixings, and withdraw the rear
wheel arch liners (access to the fixings can be
improved by removing the rear roadwheels)
(see illustration).
Unscrew the bumper side securing bolts
(one bolt on each side).

Working under the bottom of the bumper,
unscrew the two lower securing bolts.
Working in the luggage compartment,
locate the number plate light wiring
connector, next to the left-hand rear light
assembly, and separate the two halves of the
connector.
Pull the carpet trim panel away from the
rear edge of the luggage compartment to
expose the two remaining bumper securing
bolts.
Pull the bumper rearwards, and feed the
number plate light wiring harness through the
grommet in the rear body panel.

Refitting

Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Estate models

Removal

Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 and 2.

10 On models with rear underbody shields
fitted under the sides of the bumper, release
the exhaust system from its rear mounting
(loosen the clamp if necessary), then lower the
rear of the system for access to the left-hand
rear underbody shield.
11 Where applicable, remove the rear
underbody shield(s) to expose the bumper
side fixing bolts (see illustration).
12 Unscrew the bumper side securing bolts
(one bolt on each side) (see illustration).
13 Unscrew the two bolts on each side,
securing the bumper to the underbody
brackets, then pull the bumper rearwards
from the vehicle (see illustration).

Refitting

14 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

8

Bonnet - removal, refitting and
adjustment

2

Removal

Open the bonnet and have an assistant
support it, then, using a pencil or felt tip pen,
mark the outline position of each bonnet hinge
relative to the bonnet, to use as a guide on
refitting.
Where applicable, unbolt the earth strap
from the bonnet.
Unscrew the bonnet bolts and, with the
help of the assistant, carefully lift the bonnet
from the vehicle (see illustration). Store the
bonnet out of the way in a safe place.

11•4 Bodywork and fittings

6.3  Front bumper front securing nuts

(arrowed)

7.2  Removing a 

rear wheel arch liner

7.13  Rear bumper side securing bolts

(arrowed) - Estate model

7.12  Rear bumper side securing bolt

(arrowed) - Estate model

7.11  Rear underbody shield securing clip

(arrowed) - Estate model

6.4  Front bumper side securing bolt

(arrowed)

8.3  Hinge-to-bonnet bolts (A) 

and hinge-to-body bolts (B)

Inspect the bonnet hinges for signs of wear
and free play at the pivots, and if necessary
renew. Each hinge is secured to the body by
two bolts. On refitting, apply a smear of multi-
purpose grease to the hinges.

Refitting and adjustment

With the aid of an assistant, offer up the
bonnet and loosely fit the retaining bolts. Align
the hinges with the marks made on removal,
then tighten the retaining bolts securely.
Close the bonnet, and check for alignment
with the adjacent panels. If necessary,
slacken the hinge bolts and re-align the
bonnet to suit. Once the bonnet is correctly
aligned, tighten the hinge bolts. Note that the
alignment of the bonnet can also be adjusted
using the rubber bump stops fitted to the
body front panel. To adjust a bump stop,
loosen the locknut, then turn the buffer as
required, and tighten the locknut.
Once the bonnet is correctly aligned, check
that the bonnet fastens and releases in a
satisfactory manner. If adjustment is
necessary, slacken the bonnet striker lock nut
and adjust the position of the striker to suit.
Once the lock is operating correctly, securely
tighten the striker lock nut.

9

Bonnet release cable -
removal and refitting

3

General

The cable consists of two parts, joined at a
connecting plate in the engine compartment.
The release lever may be mounted on the left-
or right-hand side of the facia, depending on
model.

Release lever-to-connecting plate
cable - models with release lever on
right-hand side of facia

Removal
Working inside the vehicle, release the
securing clips and drop the fusebox panel
down from the facia.
Remove the two bolts securing the bonnet
release lever to the bracket under the facia
(see illustration).

Working in the engine compartment, locate
the cable connecting plate, positioned behind
the body front panel, above the radiator.
Where applicable, remove the anti-squeal
foam from the cable connector, then disconnect
the cable from the connector (see illustration).
Work around the engine compartment, and
release the cable from any clips and brackets.
Tie a length of string to the end of the cable
in the engine compartment, then pull the
cable through into the vehicle interior, noting
its routing.
Untie the string from the end of the cable,
and leave it in position to aid refitting.
Refitting
Commence refitting by tying the end of the
new cable to the string in the vehicle interior.
10 Use the string to pull the cable through
into the engine compartment, routing it as
noted before removal.
11 Make sure that the bulkhead grommet is
securely seated in the bulkhead aperture.
12 Further refitting is a reversal of removal.

Release lever-to-connecting plate
cable - models with release lever on
left-hand side of facia

Removal
13 
Working under the facia, remove the
release lever securing bolt, and withdraw the
lever from the side of the footwell.
14 Proceed as described previously in
paragraphs 4 to 8.
Refitting
15 
Proceed as described previously in
paragraphs 9 to 12.

Connecting plate-to-lock cable

Removal
16 
Working in the engine compartment,
locate the cable connecting plate, which is
positioned at the front of the engine
compartment.
17 Where applicable, remove the anti-squeal
foam from the cable connector, then
disconnect the release lever cable from the
connector.
18 Disconnect the end of the cable from the
lock, then unclip the cable outer from the
bracket on the lock, release the cable from
any clips on the body, and withdraw the
cable, noting its routing. If desired, access to

the lock can be improved by removing the
front grille panel (see Section 25).
Refitting
19 
Refitting is a reversal of removal.

10 Bonnet lock 

removal and refitting

2

Removal

Open the bonnet.
Unscrew the two securing bolts, then
withdraw the lock and disconnect the end of
the release cable from the lock lever (see
illustration)
.

Refitting

Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on
completion, the operation of the lock.
If necessary, adjust the position of the lock
striker on the bonnet (loosen the locknut to
enable the striker to be moved), until the lock
operation is satisfactory.

11 Body front panel assembly -

removal and refitting

3

Removal

Open the bonnet.
Disconnect the battery negative lead.
To improve access, apply the handbrake,
then jack up the front of the vehicle an
support securely on axle stands (see “Jacking
and Vehicle Support”
).
Remove the front wheel arch liners, with
reference to Section 25.

Bodywork and fittings  11•5

10.2  Bonnet lock securing bolts (arrowed)

9.5  Disconnecting the bonnet release

cable from the connector behind 

the front body panel

9.3  Bonnet release lever 

securing bolts (arrowed) - 

lever mounted on right-hand side

11

Warning: On models equipped
with air conditioning, the bolts
securing the condenser and the
reservoir to the front panel must

be removed. Where the front panel is
being removed to enable engine removal,
the compressor must also be unbolted
from the engine, which will then allow the
complete assembly to be moved clear for
engine removal. Do not disconnect any
refrigerant pipelines unless the system
has been recharged - refer to the
precautions given in Chapter 3.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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