Peugeot 405. Manual - part 49

22 Power steering pump -

removal and refitting

3

XU5 and XU9 (except XU9J4)
engine models

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Drain the fluid from the hydraulic system as
follows.

a) Remove the cap from the fluid reservoir.
b) Place a container under the high pressure

fluid pipe union on the steering gear, then
unscrew the union.

c) Allow the fluid to drain into the container.
d) Turn the steering from lock-to-lock

several times to completely drain the
system.

3 Counterhold the pump spindle, and slacken
the pump pulley securing bolts (see
illustration).
4 Remove the pump drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1.
5 Remove the bolt securing the alternator to
the adjuster bracket, then swing the alternator
upwards, clear of the power steering pump.
6 Remove the securing bolts, and withdraw
the pump pulley.
7 Unscrew the fluid pipe union, and
disconnect the pipe from the pump.
8 Slacken the hose clip, and disconnect the
fluid hose from the pump. If the hose clip is of
the crimped type, discard it and fit a new
worm-drive clip on refitting.
9 Unscrew the two front and two rear
securing bolts, and withdraw the pump from
the mounting brackets (see illustrations).
10 The pump cannot be overhauled, and if
faulty must be renewed.

Refitting

11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points.

a) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.
b) Where applicable, use a new securing clip

when reconnecting the fluid hose to the
pump.

c) Refit and tension the drivebelt as

described in Chapter 1.

d) On completion, refill and bleed the

hydraulic system as described in 
Section 21.

XU9J4 engine models

Removal

12 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1
and 2.
13 Remove the pump drivebelt (Chapter 1).
14 Unscrew the fluid pipe union, and
disconnect the pipe from the pump.
15 Slacken the hose clip, and disconnect the
fluid hose from the pump. If the hose clip is of
the crimped type, discard it and fit a new
worm-drive clip on refitting.
16 Unscrew the pump mounting bolts, and
withdraw the pump from the mounting
brackets. Recover any washers and spacers
from the bolts, noting their locations to ensure
correct refitting.
17 The pump cannot be overhauled, and if
faulty must be renewed.

Refitting

18 Refer to paragraph 11.

XU7 and XU10 engine models
without air conditioning

Removal

19 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1
and 2.

20 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support securely on
axle stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle
Support”). Remove the front right-hand
roadwheel.
21 Remove the right-hand wheel arch liner,
with reference to Chapter 11 if necessary.
22 Remove the pump drivebelt (Chapter 1).
23 Unscrew the fluid pipe union, and
disconnect the pipe from the pump.
24 Slacken the hose clip, and disconnect the
fluid hose from the pump. If the hose clip is of
the crimped type, discard it and fit a new
worm-drive clip on refitting.
25 Unscrew the two front pump mounting
bolts, which can be accessed through the
holes in the pump pulley (see illustration).
26 Unscrew the rear pump mounting bolt,
and withdraw the pump from the engine (see
illustration).

Refitting

27 Refer to paragraph 11.

XU7 and XU10 engine models
with air conditioning

Removal

28 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1
and 2.
29 Unscrew the fluid pipe union, and
disconnect the pipe from the pump.

Suspension and steering  10•15

22.9b  . . . and remove the pump - XU5 and

XU9 engines (engine removed for clarity)

22.26  Pump rear mounting bolt (arrowed) -

XU7 and XU10 engines 

without air conditioning

22.25  Unscrew the two front pump

mounting bolts (arrowed) - XU7 and 

XU10 engines without air conditioning

22.9a  Unscrew the securing bolts . . .

22.3  Counterhold the pump spindle and

slacken the pulley bolts

10

30 Slacken the hose clip, and disconnect the
fluid hose from the pump. If the hose clip is of
the crimped type, discard it and fit a new
worm-drive clip on refitting.
31 Unscrew the two front pump mounting
bolts, which can be accessed through the
holes in the pump pulley.
32 Unscrew the bolt securing the pump
mounting bracket to the alternator (see
illustration).
33 Unscrew the rear pump bolt, then withdraw
the pump from the engine (see illustration).

Refitting

34 Refer to paragraph 11.

23 Track rod end - 

removal and refitting

3

Removal

Note: A new track rod end-to-hub carrier nut
must be used on refitting.
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove
the appropriate front roadwheel.
2 If the balljoint is to be re-used, use a
straight-edge and a scriber, or similar, to mark
its relationship to the track rod.

3 Hold the track rod, and unscrew the track
rod end locknut by a quarter of a turn. Do not
move the locknut from this position, as it will
serve as a handy reference mark on refitting
(see illustration).
4 Slacken and partially unscrew the track rod
end-to-hub carrier nut (unscrew the nut as far
as the end of the threads on the balljoint to
prevent damage to the threads as the joint is
released), then release the balljoint using a
balljoint separator tool (see illustration).
Remove the nut.
5 Counting the exact number of turns
necessary to do so, unscrew the track rod
end from the track rod.
6 Count the number of exposed threads
between the end of the track rod end and the
locknut, and record this figure. If a new track
rod end is to be fitted, unscrew the locknut
from the old track rod end.
7 Carefully clean the balljoint and the threads.
Renew the track rod end if its balljoint
movement is sloppy or too stiff, if excessively
worn, or if damaged in any way; carefully
check the stud taper and threads. If the
balljoint gaiter is damaged, the complete track
rod end assembly must be renewed; it is not
possible to obtain the gaiter separately.

Refitting

8 If a new track rod end is to be fitted, screw
the locknut onto its threads, and position it so

that the same number of exposed threads are
visible, as were noted prior to removal.
9 Screw the track rod end onto the track rod
by the number of turns noted on removal. This
should bring the locknut to within a quarter of
a turn of the end face of the track rod, with the
alignment marks that were made on removal
(if applicable) lined up.
10 Engage the balljoint taper with the hub
carrier, then fit a new retaining nut and tighten
it to the specified torque.
11 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground and tighten the
roadwheel bolts to the specified torque.
12 Check and, if necessary, adjust the front
wheel toe setting as described in Section 25,
then securely tighten the track rod end
locknut.

24 Track rod - 

removal and refitting

4

Removal

Note: A new inner balljoint lockwasher must
be used on refitting.
1 Remove the track rod end as described in
Section 23.
2 Either release the retaining clips and slide
the steering gear gaiter off the end of the track
rod, or release the track rod balljoint dust
cover from rack, and slide it off the track rod
(as applicable). Refer to Section 20 for further
information.
3 Unscrew the track rod inner balljoint from
the steering rack end, preventing the steering
rack from turning by holding the balljoint lock
washer with a pair of grips. Take great care
not to mark the surfaces of the rack and
balljoint.
4 Remove the track rod assembly, and
discard the lock washer - a new one must be
used on refitting.
5 Examine the track rod inner balljoint for
signs of slackness or tight spots, and check
that the track rod itself is straight and free
from damage. If necessary, renew the track
rod; it is also recommended that the steering
gear gaiter/dust cover is renewed.

Refitting

6 Locate the new lock washer assembly on
the end of the steering rack, and apply a few
drops of locking fluid to the track rod inner
balljoint threads.
7 Screw the balljoint into the steering rack,
and tighten it whilst retaining the lock washer
with a pair of grips. Again, take great care not
to damage or mark the track rod balljoint or
steering rack.
8 Where a gaiter was removed, carefully slide
on the new gaiter, and locate it on the steering
gear housing. Turn the steering fully from
lock-to-lock, to check that the gaiter is
correctly positioned on the track rod, then
secure it in position with new retaining clips.

10•16 Suspension and steering

22.32  Unscrew the bolt (arrowed) securing

the pump mounting bracket to the

alternator - XU7 and XU10 engine models

with air conditioning

23.3  Track rod end locknut (arrowed)

23.4  Disconnecting the track rod end from

the hub carrier

22.33  Unscrew the rear pump securing

bolt (arrowed) - XU7 and XU10 engine

models with air conditioning

9 Where a dust cover was removed, carefully
slide on the new cover, and locate it in its
grooves on the steering rack collar and track
rod.

25 Wheel alignment and

steering angles - general
information

General

1 A car’s steering and suspension geometry
is defined in four basic settings - all angles are
expressed in degrees (toe settings are also
expressed as a measurement); the relevant
settings are camber, castor, steering axis
inclination, and toe-setting. With the
exception of front wheel toe-setting, none of
these settings are adjustable.

Front wheel toe setting -
checking and adjustment

2 Due to the special measuring equipment
necessary to accurately check the wheel
alignment, and the skill required to use it
properly, checking and adjustment is best left
to a Peugeot dealer or similar expert. Note
that most tyre-fitting shops now possess
sophisticated checking equipment. The
following is provided as a guide, should the
owner decide to carry out a DIY check.
3 The front wheel toe setting is checked by
measuring the distance between the front and
rear inside edges of the roadwheel rims.
Proprietary toe measurement gauges are
available from motor accessory shops.
Adjustment is made by screwing the balljoints
in or out of their track rods, to alter the
effective length of the track rod assemblies.
4 For accurate checking, the vehicle must be
at the kerb weight, ie unladen and with a full

tank of fuel, and the ride height must be
correct (see Section 15). Particularly note that
the suspension must be compressed to the
appropriate reference height. Accurate
checking and adjustment must be entrusted
to a Peugeot dealer. The following information
is provided for reference only.
5 Before starting work, check first that the
tyre sizes and types are as specified, then
check the tyre pressures and tread wear, the
roadwheel run-out, the condition of the hub
bearings, the steering wheel free play, and the
condition of the front suspension components
(Chapter 1). Correct any faults found.
6 Park the vehicle on level ground, check that
the front roadwheels are in the straight-ahead
position, then rock the rear and front ends to
settle the suspension. Release the handbrake,
and roll the vehicle backwards 1 metre, then
forwards again, to relieve any stresses in the
steering and suspension components.
7 Measure the distance between the front
edges of the wheel rims and the rear edges of
the rims. Subtract the rear measurement from
the front measurement, and check that the
result is within the specified range.
8 If adjustment is necessary, apply the
handbrake, then jack up the front of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Turn the steering wheel onto full-left lock, and
record the number of exposed threads on the
right-hand track rod end. Now turn the
steering onto full-right lock, and record the
number of threads on the left-hand side. If
there are the same number of threads visible
on both sides, then subsequent adjustment
should be made equally on both sides. If there
are more threads visible on one side than the
other, it will be necessary to compensate for
this during adjustment. Note: It is most
important that after adjustment, the same

number of threads are visible on each track
rod end.
9 First clean the track rod end threads; if they
are corroded, apply penetrating fluid before
starting adjustment. Release the rubber gaiter
outboard clips (where necessary), and peel
back the gaiters; apply a smear of grease to
the inside of the gaiters, so that both are free,
and will not be twisted or strained as their
respective track rods are rotated.
10 Use a straight-edge and a scriber or
similar to mark the relationship of each track
rod to its track rod end then, holding each
track rod in turn, unscrew its locknut fully.
11 Alter the length of the track rods, bearing
in mind the note made in paragraph 8. Screw
them into or out of the track rod ends, rotating
the track rod using an open-ended spanner
fitted to the flats provided. Shortening the
track rods (screwing them into their balljoints)
will reduce toe-in/increase toe-out.
12 When the setting is correct, hold the track
rods and securely tighten the track rod end
locknuts. Check that the balljoints are seated
correctly in their sockets, and count the
exposed threads to check the length of both
track rods. If they are not the same, then the
adjustment has not been made equally, and
problems will be encountered with tyre
scrubbing in turns; also, the steering wheel
spokes will no longer be horizontal when the
wheels are in the straight-ahead position.
13 If the track rod lengths are the same,
lower the vehicle to the ground and re-check
the toe setting; re-adjust if necessary. When
the setting is correct, securely tighten the
track rod end locknuts. Ensure that the rubber
gaiters are seated correctly, and are not
twisted or strained, and secure them in
position with new retaining clips (where
necessary).

Suspension and steering  10•17

10

11

Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings

Body exterior fittings - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Body front panel assembly - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Bonnet lock - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Bonnet release cable - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Boot lid (Saloon models) - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . .16
Boot lid lock components (Saloon models) - removal and refitting  . .17
Centre console - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Central locking components - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Door - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Door handle and lock components - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . .14
Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Door window glass and regulator - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . .15
Electric window components - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Exterior mirrors and associated components - removal and refitting  . .22
Facia assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Front bumper - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
General information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Interior trim - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Maintenance - bodywork and underframe  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Maintenance - upholstery and carpets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Major body damage - repair  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Minor body damage - repair  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Rear bumper - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Seat belt components - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Seats - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Sunroof - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Tailgate and support struts (Estate models) - 

removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Tailgate lock components (Estate models) - removal and refitting  . .19
Windscreen, tailgate and fixed window glass - general information  . .23

11•1

Contents

1

General information

The bodyshell is made of pressed steel

sections, and is available in 4-door Saloon
and 5-door Estate configuration. Most
components are welded together, but some
use is made of structural adhesives. The front
wings are bolted on.

The bonnet, doors and some other

vulnerable panels are made of zinc-coated
metal, and are further protected by being
coated with an anti-chip primer prior to being
sprayed.

Extensive use is made of plastic materials,

mainly in the interior, but also in exterior
components. The front and rear bumpers and
the front grille are injection-moulded from a
synthetic material which is very strong, and
yet light. Plastic components such as wheel
arch liners are fitted to the underside of the
vehicle, to improve the body’s resistance to
corrosion.

2

Maintenance -
bodywork and underframe

1

The general condition of a vehicle’s

bodywork is the one thing that significantly

affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those parts
of the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheel
arches, and the lower part of the engine
compartment.

The basic maintenance routine for the

bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Strangely
enough, the best time to clean the underframe
and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the
mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically, and this is
a good time for inspection.

Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-

based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the
underframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned,
engine compartment included, so that a
thorough inspection can be carried out to see
what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary. Steam-cleaning is available at

many garages, and is necessary for the
removal of the accumulation of oily grime,
which sometimes is allowed to become thick
in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are
not available, there are one or two excellent
grease solvents available, which can be
brush-applied; the dirt can then be simply
hosed off. Note that these methods should
not be used on vehicles with wax-based
underbody protective coating, or the coating
will be removed. Such vehicles should be
inspected annually, preferably just prior to
Winter, when the underbody should be
washed down, and any damage to the wax
coating repaired. Ideally, a completely fresh
coat should be applied. It would also be worth
considering the use of such wax-based
protection for injection into door panels, sills,
box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard
against rust damage, where such protection is
not provided by the vehicle manufacturer.

After washing paintwork, wipe off with a

chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish
will give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen
has dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to
be taken with metallic paintwork, as special
non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1