Peugeot 405. Manual - part 13

flanged spacer, aligning its slot with the
Woodruff key.
25 Align the crankshaft sprocket slot with the
Woodruff key, and slide it onto the end of the
crankshaft.
26 Temporarily remove the locking pin from
the rear of the flywheel, then refit the
crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt and
washer. Tighten the bolt to the specified
torque, whilst preventing crankshaft rotation
using the method employed on removal. Refit
the locking pin to the rear of the flywheel.
27 Relocate the timing belt on the sprockets.
Ensure that the “front run” of the belt is taut -
ie, ensure that any slack is on the tensioner
pulley side of the belt. Do not twist the belt
sharply while refitting it, and ensure that the
belt teeth are seated centrally in the
sprockets.
28 Loosen the tensioner pulley retaining nut.
Rotate the pulley anti-clockwise to remove all
free play from the timing belt, then retighten
the nut.
29 Tension the belt as described in
paragraphs 14 to 19 of Section 6.
30 Refit the timing belt covers as described
in Section 5.

Tensioner pulley

31 Refit the tensioner pulley to its mounting
stud, and fit the retaining nut.
32 Ensure that the “front run” of the belt is
taut - ie, ensure that any slack is on the pulley
side of the belt. Check that the belt is centrally
located on all its sprockets. Rotate the pulley
anti-clockwise to remove all free play from the
timing belt, then tighten the pulley retaining
nut securely.
33 Tension the belt as described in
paragraphs 14 to 19 of Section 6.
34 Refit the timing belt covers as described
in Section 5.

8

Camshaft oil seal - renewal

4

Note: If the camshaft oil seal is to be renewed
with the timing belt still in place, check first
that the belt is free from oil contamination.
(Renew the belt as a matter of course if signs
of oil contamination are found; see Section 6.)
Cover the belt to protect it from oil
contamination while work is in progress.
Ensure that all traces of oil are removed from
the area before the belt is refitted.
1 Remove the camshaft sprocket as
described in Section 7.
2 Punch or drill two small holes opposite
each other in the oil seal. Screw a self-tapping
screw into each, and pull on the screws with
pliers to extract the seal.
3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean
engine oil, and drive it into position until it

seats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitable
tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears
only on the hard outer edge of the seal. Take
care not to damage the seal lips during fitting.
Note that the seal lips should face inwards.
5 Refit the camshaft sprocket as described in
Section 7.

9

Valve clearances - checking
and adjustment

3

Note: The valve clearances must be checked
and adjusted only when the engine is cold.
1 The importance of having the valve
clearances correctly adjusted cannot be
overstressed, as they vitally affect the
performance of the engine. If the clearances
are too big, the engine will be noisy (charac-
teristic rattling or tapping noises) and engine
efficiency will be reduced, as the valves open
too late and close too early. A more serious
problem arises if the clearances are too small,
however. If this is the case, the valves may not
close fully when the engine is hot, resulting in
serious damage to the engine (eg. burnt valve
seats and/or cylinder head warping/cracking).
The clearances are checked and adjusted as
follows.
2 Remove the cylinder head cover and oil
baffle plate as described in Section 4.
3 The engine can now be turned using a
suitable socket and extension bar fitted to the
crankshaft sprocket/pulley bolt.

4 It is important that the clearance of each
valve is checked and adjusted only when the
valve is fully closed, with the rocker arm
resting on the heel of the cam (directly
opposite the peak). This can be ensured by
carrying out the adjustments in the following
sequence, noting that No 1 cylinder is at the
transmission end of the engine. The correct
valve clearances are given in the Specifica-
tions at the start of this Chapter. The valve
locations can be determined from the position
of the manifolds.

Valve fully 

Adjust valves

open

No 1 exhaust

No 3 inlet and No 4 exhaust

No 3 exhaust

No 4 inlet and No 2 exhaust

No 4 exhaust

No 2 inlet and No 1 exhaust

No 2 exhaust

No 1 inlet and No 3 exhaust

5 With the relevant valve fully open, check the
clearances of the two valves specified.
Clearances are checked by inserting a feeler
blade of the correct thickness between the
valve stem and the rocker arm adjusting
screw. The feeler blade should be a light,
sliding fit. If adjustment is necessary, slacken
the adjusting screw locknut, and turn the

screw as necessary. Once the correct
clearance is obtained, hold the adjusting
screw and securely tighten the locknut.
Recheck the valve clearance, and adjust
again if necessary.
6 Rotate the crankshaft until the next valve in
the sequence is fully open, and check the
clearances of the next two specified valves.
7 Repeat the procedure until all eight valve
clearances have been checked (and if
necessary, adjusted), then refit the oil baffle
plate and cylinder head cover as described in
Section 4.

10 Camshaft and rocker arms -

removal, inspection and
refitting

4

General information

1 The rocker arm assembly is secured to the
top of the cylinder head by the cylinder head
bolts. Although in theory, it is possible to undo
the head bolts and remove the rocker arm
assembly without removing the head, in
practice, this is not recommended. Once the
bolts have been removed, the head gasket will
be disturbed, and the gasket will almost
certainly leak or blow after refitting. For this
reason, removal of the rocker arm assembly
cannot be done without removing the cylinder
head and renewing the head gasket.
2 The camshaft is slid out of the right-hand
end of the cylinder head, and it therefore
cannot be removed without first removing the
cylinder head, due to a lack of clearance.

Removal

Rocker arm assembly

3 Remove the cylinder head as described in
Section 11.
4 To dismantle the rocker arm assembly,
carefully prise off the circlip from the right-
hand end of the rocker shaft; retain the rocker
pedestal, to prevent it being sprung off the
end of the shaft. Slide the various
components off the end of the shaft, keeping
all components in their correct fitted order
(see illustration). Make a note of each
component’s correct fitted position and
orientation as it is removed, to ensure it is
fitted correctly on reassembly.

2A•8 TU engine in-car repair procedures

10.4  Remove the circlip, and slide the

components off the end of the rocker arm

Turning the engine will be
easier if the spark plugs are
removed first - see Chapter 1

5 To separate the left-hand pedestal and
shaft, first unscrew the cylinder head cover
retaining stud from the top of the pedestal;
this can be achieved using a stud extractor, or
alternatively, by using two nuts locked
together. With the stud removed, unscrew the
grub screw from the top of the pedestal, and
carefully withdraw the rocker shaft (see
illustrations).

Camshaft

6 Remove the cylinder head as described in
Section 11.
7 With the head on a bench, remove the
locking pin, then remove the camshaft
sprocket as described in paragraphs 6 and 7
of Section 7.
8 Unbolt the housing from the left-hand end
of the cylinder head, then undo the retaining
bolt, and remove the camshaft thrust fork
from the cylinder head (see illustration).
9 Using a large flat-bladed screwdriver,
carefully prise the oil seal out of the right-
hand end of the cylinder head, then carefully
slide out the camshaft (see illustrations).
Discard the seal - a new one must be used on
refitting.

Inspection

Rocker arm assembly

10 Examine the rocker arm bearing surfaces
which contact the camshaft lobes for wear
ridges and scoring. Renew any rocker arms
on which these conditions are apparent. If a
rocker arm bearing surface is badly scored,
also examine the corresponding lobe on the
camshaft for wear, as it is likely that both will
be worn. Renew worn components as
necessary. The rocker arm assembly can be
dismantled as described in paragraphs 4 
and 5.
11 Inspect the ends of the (valve clearance)
adjusting screws for signs of wear or damage,
and renew as required.
12 If the rocker arm assembly has been
dismantled, examine the rocker arm and shaft
bearing surfaces for wear ridges and scoring.
If there are obvious signs of wear, the relevant
rocker arm(s) and/or the shaft must be
renewed.

Camshaft

13 Examine the camshaft bearing surfaces
and cam lobes for signs of wear ridges and
scoring. Renew the camshaft if any of these
conditions are apparent. Examine the condition
of the bearing surfaces, both on the camshaft
journals and in the cylinder head. If the head
bearing surfaces are worn excessively, the
cylinder head will need to be renewed. If the
necessary measuring equipment is available,
camshaft bearing journal wear can be checked
by direct measurement, noting that No 1
journal is at the transmission end of the head.
14 Examine the thrust fork for signs of wear
or scoring, and renew as necessary.

Refitting

Rocker arm assembly

15 If the rocker arm assembly was
dismantled, refit the rocker shaft to the left-
hand pedestal, aligning its locating hole with
the pedestal threaded hole. Refit the grub
screw, and tighten it securely. With the grub
screw in position, refit the cylinder head cover
mounting stud to the pedestal, and tighten it
securely. Apply a smear of clean engine oil to
the shaft, then slide on all removed
components, ensuring each is correctly fitted
in its original position. Once all components
are in position on the shaft, compress the
right-hand pedestal and refit the circlip.
Ensure that the circlip is correctly located in
its groove on the shaft.
16 Refit the cylinder head and rocker arm
assembly as described in Section 11.

Camshaft

17 Ensure that the cylinder head and
camshaft bearing surfaces are clean, then
liberally oil the camshaft bearings and lobes.
Slide the camshaft back into position in the
cylinder head. On carburettor engines, take
care that the fuel pump operating lever is not
trapped by the camshaft as it is slid into
position. To prevent this, remove the fuel
pump before refitting the camshaft, then refit
it afterwards.
18 Locate the thrust fork with the left-hand
end of the camshaft. Refit the fork retaining
bolt, tightening it to the specified torque
setting.
19 Ensure that the housing and cylinder head
mating surfaces are clean and dry, then apply
a smear of sealant to the housing mating
surface. Refit the housing to the left-hand end
of the head, and securely tighten its retaining
bolts.
20 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with
clean engine oil, then drive it into position until
it seats on its locating shoulder. Use a
suitable tubular drift, such as a socket, which
bears only on the hard outer edge of the seal.
Take care not to damage the seal lips during
fitting. Note that the seal lips should face
inwards.
21 Refit the camshaft sprocket as described
in paragraphs 17 to 19 of Section 7.
22 Refit the cylinder head as described in
Section 11.

TU engine in-car repair procedures  2A•9

10.8  Undo the retaining bolt, and remove

the camshaft thrust fork (arrowed) . . .

10.9b  . . . and slide out the camshaft

10.9a  . . . prise out the oil seal . . .

10.5b  . . . then remove the grub screw

10.5a  To remove the left-hand pedestal,

lock two nuts together 

and unscrew the stud . . .

2A

11 Cylinder head - 

removal and refitting

4

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
3 Remove the cylinder head cover and oil
baffle plate as described in Section 4.
4 Align the engine assembly/valve timing
holes as described in Section 3, and lock both
the camshaft sprocket and flywheel in
position. Do not attempt to rotate the engine
whilst the tools are in position.
5 Note that the following text assumes that
the cylinder head will be removed with both
inlet and exhaust manifolds attached; this is
easier, but makes it a bulky and heavy
assembly to handle. If it is wished to remove
the manifolds first, proceed as described in
the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
6 Working as described in the relevant Part of
Chapter 4, disconnect the exhaust system
front pipe from the manifold. Where fitted,
disconnect or release the lambda sensor
wiring, so that it is not strained by the weight
of the exhaust.
7 Remove the air cleaner housing and inlet
duct assembly as described in Chapter 4.
8 On carburettor engines, disconnect the
following from the carburettor and inlet
manifold as described in Chapter 4A:

a) Fuel feed hose from the pump and the

return hose from the anti-percolation
chamber (plug all openings, to prevent
loss of fuel and the entry of dirt into the
system).

b) Accelerator cable.
c) Choke cable.
d) Carburettor heating element and idle cut-

off solenoid wiring connector(s).

e) Vacuum servo unit vacuum hose, coolant

hose and all other relevant
breather/vacuum hoses from the
manifold.

9 On fuel injection engines, carry out the
following operations as described in the
relevant Part of Chapter 4:

a) Depressurise the fuel system, and

disconnect the fuel feed and return hoses
from the throttle body/fuel rail (plug all
openings, to prevent loss of fuel and entry
of dirt into the fuel system).

b) Disconnect the accelerator cable.
c) On single-point injection models,

disconnect the relevant electrical
connectors from the throttle body.

d) On multi-point injection models,

disconnect the relevant electrical
connectors from the throttle housing, fuel
injectors and (where necessary) the idle
speed auxiliary air valve.

e) Disconnect the vacuum servo unit hose,

coolant hose(s) and all the other
relevant/breather hoses from the
manifold.

10 Remove the centre timing belt cover as
described in Section 5.
11 Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley
retaining nut. Pivot the pulley in a clockwise
direction, using a suitable square-section key
fitted to the hole in the pulley hub, then
retighten the retaining nut.
12 Disengage the timing belt from the
camshaft sprocket, and position the belt clear
of the sprocket. Ensure that the belt is not
bent or twisted sharply.
13 Slacken the retaining clips, and
disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing (on the left-hand end of
the cylinder head).
14 Depress the retaining clip(s), and
disconnect the wiring connector(s) from the
electrical switch and/or sensor(s) which are
screwed into the thermostat housing/cylinder
head (as appropriate). Also where necessary,
release the TDC connector from its support
on the distributor bracket on the left-hand end
of the cylinder head.

Carburettor models

15 Disconnect the LT wiring connectors from
the distributor and HT coil. Release the TDC
sensor wiring connector from the side of the
coil mounting bracket, and disconnect the
vacuum pipe from the distributor vacuum
diaphragm unit. If the cylinder head is to be
dismantled for overhaul, remove the
distributor and ignition HT coil as described in
Chapter 5. If the cylinder numbers are not
already marked on the HT leads, number each
lead, to avoid the possibility of the leads being
incorrectly connected on refitting. Disconnect
the HT leads from the spark plugs, and
remove the distributor cap and lead
assembly.

Fuel-injected models

16 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
ignition HT coil. If the cylinder head is to be
dismantled for overhaul, remove the ignition
HT coil as described in Chapter 5. If the
cylinder numbers are not already marked on
the HT leads, number each lead, to avoid the
possibility of the leads being incorrectly
connected on refitting. Note that the HT leads
should be disconnected from the spark plugs
instead of the coil, and the coil and leads
removed as an assembly.

All models

17 Slacken and remove the bolt securing the
engine oil dipstick tube to the cylinder head.
18 Working in the reverse of the sequence
shown in illustration 11.38a, progressively
slacken the ten cylinder head bolts by half a
turn at a time, until all bolts can be unscrewed
by hand.
19 With all the cylinder head bolts removed,
lift the rocker arm assembly off the cylinder
head. Note the locating pins which are fitted
to the base of each rocker arm pedestal. If
any pin is a loose fit in the head or pedestal,
remove it for safe-keeping.
20 On engines with a cast-iron cylinder

block, lift the cylinder head away; seek
assistance if possible, as it is a heavy
assembly, especially if it is being removed
complete with the manifolds.
21 On engines with an aluminium cylinder
block, the joint between the cylinder head and
gasket and the cylinder block/crankcase must
now be broken without disturbing the wet
liners. To break the joint, obtain two L-shaped
metal bars which fit into the cylinder head bolt
holes. Gently “rock” the cylinder head free
towards the front of the car (see illustration).
Do not try to swivel the head on the cylinder
block/crankcase; it is located by dowels, as
well as by the tops of the liners. Note: If care
is not taken and the liners are moved, there is
also a possibility of the bottom seals being
disturbed, causing leakage after refitting the
head. When the joint is broken, lift the cylinder
head away; seek assistance if possible, as it is
a heavy assembly, especially if it is being
removed complete with the manifolds.
22 On all models, remove the gasket from
the top of the block, noting the two locating
dowels. If the locating dowels are a loose fit,
remove them and store them with the head for
safe-keeping. Do not discard the gasket - on
some models it will be needed for identifi-
cation purposes (see paragraphs 28 and 29).
Caution: On aluminium block engines, do
not attempt to rotate the crankshaft with
the cylinder head removed, otherwise the
wet liners may be displaced. Operations
that require the rotation of the crankshaft
(eg cleaning the piston crowns), should
only be carried out once the cylinder liners
are firmly clamped in position. In the
absence of the special Peugeot liner
clamps, the liners can be clamped in
position using large flat washers
positioned underneath suitable-length
bolts. Alternatively, the original head bolts
could be temporarily refitted, with suitable
spacers fitted to their shanks.
23 If the cylinder head is to be dismantled for
overhaul, remove the camshaft as described
in Section 10, then refer to Part C of this
Chapter.

Preparation for refitting

24 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block/crankcase must be perfectly
clean before refitting the head. Use a hard

2A•10 TU engine in-car repair procedures

11.21  Using two angled metal rods to free

the cylinder head from the block

plastic or wood scraper to remove all traces of
gasket and carbon; also clean the piston
crowns. Refer to paragraph 23 before turning
the crankshaft on aluminium block engines.
Take particular care during the cleaning
operations, as aluminium alloy is easily
damaged. Also, make sure that the carbon is
not allowed to enter the oil and water
passages - this is particularly important for the
lubrication system, as carbon could block the
oil supply to the engine’s components. Using
adhesive tape and paper, seal the water, oil
and bolt holes in the cylinder
block/crankcase. To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons and bores,
smear a little grease in the gap. After cleaning
each piston, use a small brush to remove all
traces of grease and carbon from the gap,
then wipe away the remainder with a clean
rag. Clean all the pistons in the same way.
25 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block/crankcase and the cylinder head for
nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If
slight, they may be removed carefully with a
file, but if excessive, machining may be the
only alternative to renewal.
26 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part C of this
Chapter if necessary.
27 When purchasing a new cylinder head
gasket, it is essential that a gasket of the
correct thickness is obtained. On some
models only one thickness of gasket is
available, so this is not a problem. However,
on all other models, there are two different
thicknesses available - the standard gasket
which is fitted at the factory, and a slightly
thicker “repair” gasket (+ 0.2 mm), for use
once the head gasket face has been
machined. If the cylinder head has been
machined, it should have the letter “R”
stamped adjacent to the No 3 exhaust port,
and the gasket should also have the letter “R”
stamped adjacent to No 3 cylinder on its front
upper face. The gaskets can also be identified
as described in the following paragraph, using
the cut-outs on the left-hand end of the
gasket.
28 With the gasket fitted the correct way up
on the cylinder block, there will be a single
cut-out, or no cut-out at all, at the rear of the

left-hand side of the gasket identifying the
engine type (ie. TU engine). In the centre of
the gasket there may be another series of
between 0 and 4 cut-outs, identifying the
manufacturer of the gasket and whether or
not it contains asbestos (these cut-outs are of
little importance). The important cut-out
location is at the front of the gasket; on the
standard gasket there will be no cut-out in this
position, whereas on the thicker “repair”
gasket there will be a single cut-out (see
illustration). Identify the gasket type, and
ensure that the new gasket obtained is of the
correct thickness. If there is any doubt as to
which gasket is fitted, take the old gasket
along to your Peugeot dealer, and have him
confirm the gasket type.
29 Check the condition of the cylinder head
bolts, and particularly their threads, whenever
they are removed. Wash the bolts in suitable
solvent, and wipe them dry. Check each for
any sign of visible wear or damage, renewing
any bolt if necessary. Measure the length of
each bolt, to check for stretching (although
this is not a conclusive test, in the event that
all ten bolts have stretched by the same
amount). Although Peugeot do not actually
specify that the bolts must be renewed, it is

strongly recommended that the bolts should
be renewed as a complete set whenever they
are disturbed.
30 On aluminium block engines, prior to
refitting the cylinder head, check the cylinder
liner protrusion as described in Part C of this
Chapter.

Refitting

31 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the
cylinder head and cylinder block/crankcase.
Check that the two locating dowels are in
position at each end of the cylinder
block/crankcase surface and, if necessary,
remove the cylinder liner clamps.
32 Position a new gasket on the cylinder
block/crankcase surface, ensuring that its
identification cut-outs are at the left-hand end
of the gasket (see illustration) and the
manufacturer’s name is uppermost.
33 Check that the flywheel and camshaft
sprocket are still correctly locked in position
with their respective tools then, with the aid of
an assistant, carefully refit the cylinder head
assembly to the block, aligning it with the
locating dowels (see illustration).
34 Ensure that the locating pins are in
position in the base of each rocker pedestal,
then refit the rocker arm assembly to the
cylinder head (see illustration).
35 Apply a smear of grease to the threads,
and to the underside of the heads, of the
cylinder head bolts. Peugeot recommend the
use of Molykote G Rapid Plus grease
(available from your Peugeot dealer - a sachet
is supplied with the top-end gasket set); in the
absence of the specified grease, a good-
quality high-melting-point grease may be
used.
36 Carefully enter each bolt into its relevant
hole (do not drop them in) and screw in, by
hand only, until finger-tight.
37 Working progressively and in the
sequence shown, tighten the cylinder head
bolts to their Stage 1 torque setting, using a
torque wrench and suitable socket (see
illustrations).
38 Once all the bolts have been tightened to
their Stage 1 setting, working again in the
given sequence, angle-tighten the bolts
through the specified Stage 2 angle, using a
socket and extension bar. It is recommended

TU engine in-car repair procedures  2A•11

11.33  . . . then lower the cylinder head 

into position . . .

11.34  . . . and refit the 

rocker arm assembly

A  Engine type identification cut-outs
B  Gasket manufacturer identification cut-outs
C  Gasket thickness identification cut-out

11.32  Locate the cylinder head gasket 

on the block . . .

11.28  TU engine series gasket markings

2A