Peugeot 205. Manual - part 36

Overhaul

9 Pull off the dust excluders (see
illustration).
10 Extract the pistons, seals and return
spring; keeping each component identified for
location.
11 Check the surfaces of the cylinder bore
and pistons for scoring and corrosion and, if
evident, renew the complete wheel cylinder. If
the components are in good condition discard
the seals and obtain a repair kit which will
contain all the necessary renewable
components.
12 Clean the pistons and cylinder with
methylated spirit or clean brake fluid then dip
each component in fresh brake fluid and
reassemble in reverse order; making sure that
the lips of the seals face into the cylinder.
When completed, wipe clean the outer
surfaces of the dust excluders.

Refitting

13 Clean the backplate and refit the wheel
cylinder using a reversal of the removal
procedure. Refer to Section 11 when refitting
the hub/drum.
14 Make sure that the brake hose clamp or
polythene sheeting is removed then bleed the
hydraulic system, as described in Section 2.

11 Rear brake hub/drum -

removal, inspection and
refitting

2

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 5
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the

rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove
the rear roadwheels and ensure that the
handbrake is released.
2 Tap off the grease cap, taking care not to
damage its outer lip, then relieve the staking
on the rear hub nut, using a suitable drift or
chisel. Unscrew the nut and recover the
washer (see illustrations). Should the stub
axle rotate within the trailing arm, hold it
stationary with a suitable Allen key on the
inner. Note that a new rear hub nut will be
required for refitting.
3 Withdraw the hub/drum from the stub axle.
If difficulty is experienced, due to the shoes
wearing grooves in the drum, insert a
screwdriver through one of the wheel bolt
holes and depress the handbrake lever on the
rear brake shoe so that it slides back behind
the shoe. This will retract the shoes and allow
the hub/drum to be removed.

Braking system  9•11

9

10.7  Rear wheel cylinder mounting bolts (arrowed)

10.9  Exploded view of a rear wheel cylinder

1 Cap
2 Bleed screw
3 Dust excluder

4 Piston
5 Seal
6 Spring seat

7 Spring
8 Body

11.2a  Unscrew the rear hub nut . . .

11.2b . . . and remove the washer

Inspection

4 Brush the dust and dirt from the brake drum
and carefully inspect the drum interior.
5 If the drum is grooved, owing to failure to
renew worn brake shoes or after a very high
mileage has been covered, then it may be
possible to regrind it, provided the maximum
internal diameter is not exceeded.
6 Even if only one drum is in need of grinding
both drums must be reground to the same
size in order to maintain even braking
characteristics.
7 Judder or a springy pedal felt when the
brakes are applied can be caused by a
distorted (out-of-round) drum. Here again it
may be possible to regrind the drums,
otherwise a new drum will be required.

Refitting

8 Fit the hub/drum on the stub axle and retain
with the washer and new hub nut.
9 Tighten the nut to the specified torque then
lock it by staking the nut flange into the
groove on the stub axle (see illustration).
10 Tap the grease cap into the hub/drum.
11 Refit the roadwheels and lower the car to
the ground.

12 Master cylinder - removal,

overhaul and refitting

3

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

Removal

1 Unscrew the filler cap from the master
cylinder fluid reservoir and drain off the fluid.

2 Prise the reservoir from the master cylinder
and remove the seals.
3 Unscrew the union nuts securing the rigid
brake lines to the master cylinder and pull out
the lines. Cap the pipe ends to prevent loss of
fluid.
4 Unscrew the mounting nuts and withdraw
the master cylinder from the bulkhead or
servo unit, as applicable. Remove the gasket
on non-servo models.

Overhaul

5 Clean the exterior of the master cylinder. It
is not possible to overhaul the master cylinder
fitted to non-servo models, therefore if it is
known to be leaking or damaged the
complete master cylinder must be renewed.
On servo models proceed as follows.
6 Using circlip pliers, extract the circlip from
the mouth of the cylinder.
7 Remove the primary and secondary piston
components noting their locations. If
necessary tap the cylinder on a block of
wood.
8 Clean all the components in methylated
spirit. Check the surfaces of the cylinder bore
and pistons for scoring and corrosion, and if
evident renew the complete master cylinder. If
the components are in good condition remove
and discard the seals and obtain a repair kit
which will contain all the necessary renewable
components.
9 Dip the new seals in fresh brake fluid and fit
them to the pistons using the fingers only to
manipulate them.
10 Reassemble the master cylinder in
reverse order to dismantling and make sure
that the circlip is fully engaged with the
groove in the mouth of the cylinder.
11 On non-servo models check that the
brake pedal pushrod protrudes from the
bulkhead by between 9.0 and 9.6 mm. If not,
loosen the locknuts and adjust the position of
the stop light switch inside the car on the
pedal bracket.

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit a
new gasket on non-servo models. Finally
bleed the complete hydraulic system, as
described in Section 2.

13 Rear brake compensator

(GTI models) - information,
removal and refitting

2

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

1.6 GTI models

General information

1 On 1.6 GTI models the brake hydraulic
circuit is split front-to-rear, and an inertia type
compensator is incorporated in the rear brake
circuit to prevent rear wheel lock-up during
hard braking. The compensator is located in
the engine compartment on the lower
left-hand side panel (see illustration), and
incorporates a steel ball which stops fluid
entry to the rear circuit at a preset
deceleration.

Removal

2 To minimise fluid loss, unscrew the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap and place a piece
of polythene over the filler neck. Secure the
polythene with an elastic band ensuring that
an airtight seal is obtained.
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove
the relevant front roadwheel.
4 Unscrew the union nuts and disconnect the
rigid hydraulic lines from each end of the unit
while holding the unit on the flats provided. 
5 Unbolt the clamp and withdraw the
compensator.

9•12 Braking system

11.9  Lock the hub nut by staking the nut flange into the groove on

the stub axle

13.1  Rear brake compensator fitted to 1.6 GTI models

An ideal way to remove fluid
from the master cylinder
reservoir is to use a clean
syringe or an old poultry baster.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but note
that the nose of the unit must face forwards
and be inclined upwards at an angle of 22° to
the horizontal. Provided that the mounting
bracket is undamaged, this angle will
automatically be achieved. Finally bleed the
rear hydraulic circuit, as described in Section 2.

1.9 GTI models

General information

7 On 1.9 GTI models, the hydraulic circuit is
split diagonally and two compensators are
fitted. Each compensator is located in the rear
circuit near the rear wheel (see illustration).
They are of fixed calibration, and not
load-sensitive.

Removal

8 To minimise fluid loss, unscrew the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap and place a piece
of polythene over the filler neck. Secure the
polythene with an elastic band ensuring that
an airtight seal is obtained.
9 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 
10 Unscrew the union nuts and disconnect
the rigid hydraulic lines from each end of the
unit while holding the unit on the flats
provided. Ease out the pipes and remove the
compensator from under the car.
11 Note that from December 1988, modified
compensators have been fitted. The modified
components can be identified by the letter on
the compensator body. Early components
have the identifying letter “F”, while later
components have the identifying letter “E”.
The later components can be used to replace
the early components, but both
compensators must be of the same type.

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Bleed
the relevant hydraulic circuit, as described in
Section 2 on completion.

14 Vacuum servo unit - testing,

removal and refitting

3

Testing

1 With the engine switched off, depress the
brake pedal several times. The distance by
which the pedal moves should now alter over
all applications.
2 Depress the brake pedal fully and hold it
down then start the engine. The pedal should
be felt to move downward slightly.
3 Hold the pedal depressed with the engine
running, switch off the ignition and continue to
hold the pedal depressed for 30 seconds
during which period the pedal should neither
rise nor drop.

4 Start the engine whilst the brake pedal is
released, run it for a minute and switch off.
Give several applications of the brake pedal.
The pedal travel should decrease with each
application.
5 Failure of the brake pedal to act in the way
described will indicate a fault in the servo unit.
6 The servo unit should not be serviced or
overhauled beyond the operations described
in this Section and in the event of a fault
developing, renew the servo complete.
7 Periodically check the condition of the
vacuum hose and security of the clips.
8 Renew the hose if necessary.
9 If the servo hose right-angled non-return
valve is loose in its sealing grommet, or if the
grommet shows evidence of cracking or
perishing, renew it. Apply some hydraulic fluid
to the rubber to facilitate fitting.

Air filter renewal

10 Although not a specified operation, the air
filter through which the pushrod passes at the
rear of the servo can become clogged after a
high mileage. Disconnect the rod from the
pedal, cut the filter diagonally having slipped
the dust excluder off the rod. Fit the new filter.

Servo unit removal

11 Remove the master cylinder, as described
in Section 12. Disconnect the servo vacuum
hose.
12 Working inside the car, disconnect the
pushrod from the brake pedal; noting that it is
on the lower hole.
13 Unscrew the mounting nuts behind the
pedal bracket then withdraw the servo unit into
the engine compartment. Remove the gasket.

Servo unit refitting

14 Before fitting a servo unit, check the
pushrod dimensions and adjust where
possible 

(see illustration).

15 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit a
new gasket and fully tighten the mounting
nuts. Note that the pushrod is fitted to the
lower hole of the two on the brake pedal. Refer
to Section 12 when refitting the master
cylinder. Finally, with the brake pedal released,
check that the clearance between the stop
light switch threaded shank and pedal is 3.5
mm. If necessary loosen the locknuts, adjust
the switch and tighten the locknuts.

Braking system  9•13

9

13.7  Rear brake compensator fitted to 

1.9 GTI models

14.14  Cross-section of the vacuum

servo unit showing pushrod

adjustment dimensions

1 Adjustment screw
A = 22.2 to 22.4 mm
B = 86.5 to 89.5 mm

15 Handbrake - adjustment

2

All models except 1.9 GTI

1 The handbrake is normally kept adjusted by
the action of the automatic adjusters on the
rear brake shoes. However, in due course, the
cables will stretch and will have to be adjusted
in order to fully apply the handbrake. 
2 To adjust, first place the handbrake lever
onto the seventh notch.
3 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 
4 Working inside the car, remove the screw
and lift the cover from the handbrake lever
(see illustration).
5 Slacken the locknut and turn the
adjustment nut on the rear of the cable
compensator so that both rear wheels are just
binding on the brake shoes (see illustration).
6 Fully apply the handbrake lever and check
that both rear wheels are locked.
7 Tighten the adjuster locknut, fit the cover
over the handbrake lever and lower the car to
the ground.

8 Over-adjustment will prevent the automatic
adjusters operating correctly so make sure
that the handbrake is fully applied after being
pulled up between 7 and 9 notches, no fewer.

1.9 GTI models

9 Chock the wheels and fully release the
handbrake.
10 Apply the brake pedal hard several times.
11 Working inside the car, remove the screw
and lift the cover from the handbrake lever.
12 Working beneath the rear of the car,
measure the distance between the operating
levers on the calipers and the end stops on
the inner cables (see illustration).
13 Inside the car, loosen the nut on the
handbrake lever until the distance measured
in the previous paragraph is 5.0 mm on both
sides.
14 Check that the operating levers on both
calipers move freely and return positively to
their stops.
15 Now tighten the nut on the handbrake
lever so that the handbrake is fully applied
between 7 and 9 notches. Do not over-adjust
so that the handbrake is fully applied over
fewer notches, otherwise the automatic
adjusters will not operate correctly.
16 Refit the cover over the handbrake lever.

16 Handbrake cables - renewal

2

All models except 1.9 GTI

1 Remove the rear brake shoes, as described
in Section 5.
2 Working inside the car, remove the screw
and lift the cover from the handbrake lever.
3 Unhook the cable(s) from the compensator.
4 Release the cable(s) from the retaining
clips, the floor, the fuel tank, and the rear
brake backplate(s) and withdraw from under
the car (see illustration).
5 Fit the new cable(s) using a reversal of the
removal procedure with reference also to
Section 5. Finally adjust the handbrake as
described in Section 15.

1.9 GTI models

6 Working inside the car, remove the screw
and lift the cover from the handbrake lever.
7 Unhook the cable from the compensator.
8 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 
9 Release the cable(s) from the retaining
clips, the floor, the fuel tank, the bracket(s),
and the caliper lever(s), and withdraw from
under the car.
10 Fit the new cable(s) using a reversal of the
removal procedure. Finally adjust the
handbrake as described in Section 15.

17 Brake pedal - removal and

refitting

3

Removal

1 Remove the lower facia panel from the
steering column in order to gain access to the
pedal bracket. 

9•14 Braking system

15.4  Remove the screw and lift the cover

from the handbrake lever

15.5  Handbrake adjustment nut and

locknut (arrowed)

15.12  Handbrake adjustment on 1.9 GTI models

1 Handbrake operating lever on caliper
a = 5.0 mm

16.4  Handbrake cable clip and bracket located on rear

suspension arm