Peugeot 205. Manual - part 35

7 Expand the shoes over the wheel cylinder
then release them from the bottom anchor.
8 Unhook the lever return spring and the
handbrake cable.
9 If necessary, position a rubber band over
the wheel cylinder to prevent the pistons
coming out. Should there be evidence of brake
fluid leakage from the wheel cylinder, renew it
or overhaul it, as described in Section 10.
10 Transfer the handbrake and automatic
adjuster levers to the new shoes as required.
Note that the levers and strut on each rear
wheel are different, and that the leading and
trailing shoes are fitted with different grade
linings.
11 Place the shoes on the bench in their
correct location and fit the lower return spring.
12 Apply brake grease sparingly to the metal
contact points of the shoes, then position
them on the backplate and reconnect the
handbrake cable. Locate the shoe ends on
the bottom anchor.

13 Engage the strut with the slots at the top
of the shoes, making sure it is located
correctly on the automatic adjuster lever.
Engage the upper shoe ends on the wheel
cylinder pistons.
14 Insert the steady spring pins in the
backplate and through the shoe webs, then fit
the springs and outer cups.
15 Fit the upper return spring.
16 Move the serrated automatic adjuster
lever quadrant against the spring tension to
set the shoes at their minimum diameter.
17 Check that the handbrake lever on the
rear brake shoe is positioned with the lug on
the edge of the shoe web and not behind the
shoe.
18 Refit the hub/drum as described in
Section 11, but do not lower the car to the
ground at this stage.
19 Apply the footbrake several times to set
the shoes in their adjusted position.

20 Adjust the handbrake, as described in
Section 15.
21 Repeat all the operations on the opposite
rear brake then refit the roadwheels and lower
the car to the ground.

6

Rear brake pads (1.9 GTI
models) - renewal

2

Warning: Disc brake pads must
be renewed on both rear wheels
at the same time - never renew
the pads on only one wheel as

uneven braking may result. Dust created
by wear of the pads may contain asbestos,
which is a health hazard. Never blow it out
with compressed air and do not inhale any
of it. DO NOT use petroleum-based
solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake
cleaner or methylated spirit only. DO NOT
allow any brake fluid, oil or grease to

Braking system  9•7

9

5.4  Upper return spring location 

(DBA Bendix type)

5.5  Shoe steady springs - arrowed 

(DBA Bendix type)

5.6  Automatic adjuster lever - arrowed

(DBA Bendix type)

5.3b  Girling type rear brake component layout

5.3a  DBA Bendix type rear brake component layout

contact the brake pads or disc. Also refer
to the warning at the start of Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove
the rear roadwheels and ensure that the
handbrake is released.
2 Extract the spring clip (see illustration) and
slide out the locking key retaining the bottom
of the pads.
3 Withdraw the brake pads using pliers, while
pressing down on the upper locating ears
(see illustration).
4 Clean away all dust and dirt. Check for
brake fluid leakage around the piston dust
seal, and if evident, overhaul the caliper using
the basic procedure described in Section 7.
Check the brake disc for wear, and also check
that the rubber bellows on the guides are in
good condition.
5 The automatic handbrake adjustment must
now be retracted, in order to accommodate
the new disc pads. To do this, turn the piston

using a screwdriver in the grooves (see
illustration), at the same time using a second
screwdriver to apply an outward force to the
caliper. Do not damage the brake disc while
carrying out this procedure.
6 Set the piston so that the mark is horizontal,
and either above or below the piston groove
(see illustration).
7 Apply a little anti-squeal brake grease to the
pad contact areas on the caliper.
8 Locate the two brake pads in the caliper,
pressing the upper ears fully into position.
9 Slide the locking key into the caliper, and
secure with the spring clip.
10 Fully depress the brake pedal several
times to set the automatic adjuster and
position the brake pads in their normal
position.
11 Repeat the operations on the opposite
disc caliper. 
12 Check the fluid level in the master cylinder
reservoir, and top-up if necessary.
13 Refit the roadwheels and lower the car to
the ground.

7

Front brake caliper - removal,
overhaul and refitting

3

Note:  Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, and
to the warning at the beginning of Section 4
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Removal

1 Remove the brake pads as described in
Section 4.
2 To minimise fluid loss, unscrew the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap and place a piece
of polythene over the filler neck. Secure the
polythene with an elastic band ensuring that
an airtight seal is obtained. Alternatively, use a
brake hose clamp, a G-clamp, or a similar tool
with protected jaws, to clamp the front flexible
hydraulic hose.
3 Clean the area around the hydraulic hose-
to-caliper union, then slacken the hose union
half a turn. Be prepared for fluid spillage.
4 Unscrew the two mounting bolts or upper
guide bolt, as applicable, withdraw the caliper
from the disc then unscrew the caliper from
the flexible hose (see illustration). Plug the
hose to prevent loss of fluid.
5 Clean the exterior of the caliper.
6 On the Bendix type, unbolt the caliper
frame from the cylinder.

Overhaul

7 Prise the dust cover and ring from the end
of the piston (see illustrations).
8 Withdraw the piston from the cylinder. If
necessary use air pressure from a foot pump
in the fluid inlet to force the piston out.

9•8 Braking system

6.2  Brake pad locking key spring clip

(arrowed)

6.3  Removing the rear brake pads

6.5  Turning the caliper piston to retract the automatic 

handbrake adjuster

1   Piston

6.6  Correct final position of caliper piston

1 Piston

2 Mark

3 Groove

9 Prise the seal from inside the cylinder,
taking care not to damage the cylinder wall.
10 If required, dismantle the sliding guides.
On the Bendix type unbolt the endplate from
the guides and remove the rubber dust
covers. Keep the guides identified for
location.
11 Clean all the components using
methylated spirit or clean brake fluid then
examine them for wear and damage. Check
the piston and cylinder surfaces for scoring,
excessive wear and corrosion, and if evident
renew the complete caliper assembly.
Similarly check the sliding guides. If the
components are in good condition obtain a
repair kit which will contain all the necessary
rubber seals and other renewable items.
12 Dip the new seal in fresh brake fluid then
locate it in the cylinder groove using the
fingers only to manipulate it.
13 Dip the piston in brake fluid and insert it in
the cylinder, twisting it as necessary to locate
it in the seal.
14 Fit the dust cover and ring over the end of
the piston and cylinder. 
15 Lubricate the sliding guides with the
grease supplied and refit them, together with
the new seals. On the Bendix type refit the
endplate and tighten the bolts.
16 On the Bendix type, refit the caliper frame
and tighten the bolts.

Refitting

17 To refit the caliper, first screw it onto the
flexible hose and locate it over the brake disc
so that the hose is not twisted.
18 Clean the mounting bolt threads and
apply locking fluid. Insert the mounting bolts
or upper guide bolt and tighten to the
specified torque.
19 Tighten the flexible hose union on the
caliper. Check that the hose is clear of the
strut and surrounding components and, if
necessary, loosen the rigid pipe union on the
body bracket, reposition the hose and
retighten the union.
20 Refit the brake pads, as described in
Section 4.
21 Remove the brake hose clamp or
polythene sheeting and bleed the hydraulic
system, as described in Section 2.

Braking system  9•9

9

7.4  Brake caliper mounting bolts -

arrowed (DBA Bendix type)

7.7a  DBA Bendix type brake caliper components

1 Mounting bolt
2 Caliper assembly
3 Sliding key kit
4 Bleed screw

5 Retaining plate
6 Sliding guide kit with grease
7 Repair kit with grease

7.7b  Girling type brake caliper components

1 Mounting bolt
2 Caliper assembly
3 Pad retaining pin and spring
4 Bleed screw
5 Repair kit

8

Rear brake caliper (1.9 GTI
models) - removal, overhaul
and refitting

3

Note:  Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, and
to the warning at the beginning of Section 6
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Removal

1 Remove the brake pads as described in
Section 6.
2 To minimise fluid loss, unscrew the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap and place a piece
of polythene over the filler neck. Secure the
polythene with an elastic band ensuring that
an airtight seal is obtained. Alternatively, use a
brake hose clamp, a G-clamp, or a similar tool
with protected jaws, to clamp the rear flexible
hydraulic hose.
3 Clean the area around the hydraulic hose-
to-caliper union, then slacken the hose union
half a turn. Be prepared for fluid spillage.
4 Unhook the handbrake cable from the lever
on the caliper, and withdraw the outer cable
(see illustration).
5 Unscrew the two mounting bolts, withdraw
the caliper from the disc, then unscrew the
caliper from the brake hose. Plug the hose to
prevent loss of fluid.

Overhaul

6 This is essentially the same procedure as
that described in Section 7 for the front
caliper.

Refitting

7 To refit the caliper, first screw it onto the
brake hose and locate it over the brake disc,
so that the hose is not twisted.
8 Clean the mounting bolt threads, and apply
a little locking fluid. Insert the bolts together
with the anti-rotation plate, and tighten them
to the specified torque.
9 Tighten the brake hose union.
10 Insert the handbrake outer cable, and
re-connect the inner cable to the lever.
11 Refit the brake pads as described in
Section 6.

12 Remove the brake hose clamp or
polythene sheeting, and bleed the hydraulic
system as described in Section 2.
13 Check and if necessary adjust the
handbrake, as described in Section 15.

9

Brake disc - inspection,
removal and refitting

2

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 4
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Inspection

Note: If a disc requires renewal, BOTH discs
on the same axle should be renewed at the
same time (ie both front or both rear) to ensure
even and consistent braking. New brake pads
should also be fitted.
1 Remove the brake pads as described in
Section 4 or 6 as applicable.
2 Inspect the disc friction surfaces for cracks
or deep scoring (light grooving is normal and
may be ignored). A cracked disc must be
renewed; a scored disc can be reclaimed by
machining provided that the thickness is not
reduced below the specified minimum.
3 Check the disc run-out using a dial test
indicator with its probe positioned near the
outer edge of the disc. If the run-out exceeds
the figures given in the Specifications,
machining may be possible, otherwise disc
renewal will be necessary.

4 Excessive disc thickness variation can also
cause judder. Check this using a micrometer.
No actual thickness variation figures are
provided by the manufacturer, but as a
general guide, 0.010 mm should be
considered a maximum.

Removal

5 On certain models, it may be necessary to
remove the brake caliper with reference to
Section 7 or 8 in order to allow sufficient
clearance to remove the disc. Note that there
is no need to disconnect the flexible hose
from the caliper. Support the caliper with wire
or string, taking care not to strain the hose.
6 To remove the disc, unscrew the two
cross-head screws (where fitted) and
withdraw the disc, tilting it as necessary to
clear the hub and caliper if the caliper is still
fitted.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make
sure that the disc-to-hub mating surfaces are

clean and that the securing screws are tight-
ened fully. If the caliper has been removed,
coat the caliper mounting bolt threads with
locking fluid on refitting. Refer to Section 4 or
6 when refitting the disc pads.

10 Rear wheel cylinder -

removal, overhaul and refitting

2

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, and
to the warning at the beginning of Section 5
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove
the rear roadwheels and ensure that the
handbrake is released.
2 Remove the hub/drum, as described in
Section 11. 
3 Note the location of the brake shoe upper
return spring then unhook and remove it. 
4 Pull the handbrake lever on the rear shoe
fully forwards so that the upper ends of the
shoes are clear of the wheel cylinder. Wedge
the lever in this position using a block of
wood.
5 To minimise fluid loss, unscrew the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap and place a piece
of polythene over the filler neck. Secure the
polythene with an elastic band ensuring that
an airtight seal is obtained. Alternatively, use a
brake hose clamp, a G-clamp, or a similar tool
with protected jaws, to clamp the flexible
hydraulic hose supplying the rear brakes (see
illustration).
6 Unscrew the hydraulic pipe union nut from
the rear of the wheel cylinder.
7 Unscrew the two mounting bolts and
withdraw the wheel cylinder from the
backplate 

(see illustration). Take care not to

spill any brake fluid on the brake shoe linings.
8 Clean the exterior of the wheel cylinder.
Note that on all models with a diagonally split
hydraulic circuit the rear wheel cylinders
incorporate compensators which must not be
dismantled.

9•10 Braking system

8.4  Handbrake cable attachment at rear

brake caliper

10.5  To minimise fluid loss, fit a brake

hose clamp to the flexible hose

If a dial test indicator is not
available, check the run-out
by positioning a fixed pointer
near the outer edge, in

contact with the disc face. Rotate the
disc and measure the maximum
displacement of the pointer with feeler
blades.