Peugeot 205. Manual - part 14

which is fitted at the factory, and a slightly
thicker “repair” gasket (+ 0.2 mm), for use
once the head gasket face has been
machined. If the cylinder head has been
machined, it should have the letter “R”
stamped adjacent to the No 3 exhaust port,
and the gasket should also have the letter “R”
stamped adjacent to No 3 cylinder on its front
upper face. The gaskets can also be identified
as described in the following paragraph, using
the cut-outs on the left-hand end of the
gasket.
28 With the gasket fitted the correct way up
on the cylinder block, there will be a single
cut-out, or no cut-out at all, at the rear of the
left-hand side of the gasket identifying the
engine type (ie. TU engine). In the centre of
the gasket there may be another series of
between 0 and 4 cut-outs, identifying the
manufacturer of the gasket and whether or
not it contains asbestos (these cut-outs are of
little importance). The important cut-out
location is at the front of the gasket; on the
standard gasket there will be no cut-out in this
position, whereas on the thicker “repair”
gasket there will be a single cut-out (see
illustration). Identify the gasket type, and
ensure that the new gasket obtained is of the
correct thickness. If there is any doubt as to
which gasket is fitted, take the old gasket
along to your Peugeot dealer, and have him
confirm the gasket type.
29 Check the condition of the cylinder head
bolts, and particularly their threads, whenever
they are removed. Wash the bolts in suitable
solvent, and wipe them dry. Check each for
any sign of visible wear or damage, renewing
any bolt if necessary. Measure the length of
each bolt, to check for stretching (although
this is not a conclusive test, in the event that
all ten bolts have stretched by the same
amount). Although Peugeot do not actually
specify that the bolts must be renewed, it is
strongly recommended that the bolts should
be renewed as a complete set whenever they
are disturbed.

30 On aluminium block engines, prior to
refitting the cylinder head, check the cylinder
liner protrusion as described in Part D of this
Chapter.

Refitting

31 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the
cylinder head and cylinder block/crankcase.
Check that the two locating dowels are in
position at each end of the cylinder
block/crankcase surface and, if necessary,
remove the cylinder liner clamps.
32 Position a new gasket on the cylinder
block/crankcase surface, ensuring that its
identification cut-outs are at the left-hand end
of the gasket.

33 Check that the flywheel and camshaft
sprocket are still correctly locked in position
with their respective tools then, with the aid of
an assistant, carefully refit the cylinder head
assembly to the block, aligning it with the
locating dowels.
34 Ensure that the locating pins are in
position in the base of each rocker pedestal,
then refit the rocker arm assembly to the
cylinder head.
35 Apply a smear of grease to the threads,
and to the underside of the heads, of the
cylinder head bolts. Peugeot recommend the
use of Molykote G Rapid Plus grease
(available from your Peugeot dealer - a sachet
is supplied with the top-end gasket set); in the
absence of the specified grease, a good-
quality high-melting-point grease may be
used.
36 Carefully enter each bolt into its relevant
hole (do not drop them in) and screw in, by
hand only, until finger-tight.
37 Working progressively and in the
sequence shown, tighten the cylinder head
bolts to their Stage 1 torque setting, using a
torque wrench and suitable socket (see
illustrations).
38 Once all the bolts have been tightened to
their Stage 1 setting, working again in the
given sequence, angle-tighten the bolts
through the specified Stage 2 angle, using a
socket and extension bar. It is recommended
that an angle-measuring gauge is used during
this stage of the tightening, to ensure accuracy
(see illustration). If a gauge is not available,
use white paint to make alignment marks
between the bolt head and cylinder head prior
to tightening; the marks can then be used to
check that the bolt has been rotated through
the correct angle during tightening.
39 On cast-iron block engines, it will then be
necessary to tighten the bolts through the
specified Stage 3 angle setting.
40 With the cylinder head bolts correctly
tightened, refit the dipstick tube retaining bolt
and tighten it securely.

TU series engine in-car repair procedures  2C•11

2C

11.28  Cylinder head gasket markings

A Engine type identification cut-outs
B Gasket manufacturer identification cut-

outs

C Gasket thickness identification cut-out

11.37a  Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

11.37b  Working in the sequence, tighten the head bolts first with

a torque wrench . . .

41 Refit the timing belt to the camshaft
sprocket. Ensure that the “front run” of the
belt is taut - ie, ensure that any slack is on the
tensioner pulley side of the belt. Do not twist
the belt sharply while refitting it, and ensure
that the belt teeth are seated centrally in the
sprockets.
42 Loosen the tensioner pulley retaining nut.
Pivot the pulley anti-clockwise to remove all
free play from the timing belt, then retighten
the nut.
43 Tension the belt as described under the
relevant sub-heading in Section 7, then refit
the centre and upper timing belt covers as
described in Section 6.

Carburettor models

44 If the head was stripped for overhaul, refit
the distributor and HT coil as described in
Chapter 5B, ensuring that the HT leads are
correctly reconnected. If the head was not
stripped, reconnect the wiring connector and
vacuum pipe to the distributor, and the HT
lead to the coil; clip the TDC sensor wiring
connector onto the coil bracket.

Fuel-injected models

45 If the head was stripped for overhaul, refit
the ignition module and leads as described in
Chapter 5B, ensuring that the leads are
correctly reconnected. If the head was not
stripped, simply reconnect the wiring
connector to the module.

All models

46 Reconnect the wiring connector(s) to the
coolant switch/sensor(s) on the left-hand end
of the head.
47 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the
thermostat housing, securely tightening their
retaining clips.
48 Working as described in the relevant Part
of Chapter 4, carry out the following tasks:

a) Refit all disturbed wiring, hoses and

control cable(s) to the inlet manifold and
fuel system components.

b) Reconnect and adjust the choke and

throttle cables as applicable.

d) Reconnect the exhaust system front pipe

to the manifold. Where applicable,
reconnect the oxygen sensor wiring
connector.

e) Refit the air cleaner assembly and

ducting.

49 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve
clearances as described in Section 5.
50 On completion, reconnect the battery,
and refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.

12 Sump - removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove
the front roadwheels. Disconnect the battery
negative lead.
2 Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit the
engine oil drain plug, tightening it to the
specified torque. If the engine is nearing its
service interval when the oil and filter are due
for renewal, it is recommended that the filter is
also removed, and a new one fitted. After
reassembly, the engine can then be refilled
with fresh oil. Refer to Chapter 1 for further
information.
3 Remove the exhaust system front pipe as
described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
4 Progressively slacken and remove all the
sump retaining nuts and bolts. On cast-iron
block engines, it may be necessary to unbolt
the flywheel cover plate from the transmission
to gain access to the left-hand sump
fasteners.
5 Break the joint by striking the sump with the
palm of your hand, then lower the sump and
withdraw it from underneath the vehicle (see
illustration).
6 While the sump is removed, take the
opportunity to check the oil pump pick-
up/strainer for signs of clogging or splitting. If
necessary, remove the pump as described in
Section 13, and clean or renew the strainer.

Refitting

7 Clean all traces of sealant from the mating
surfaces of the cylinder block/crankcase and
sump, then use a clean rag to wipe out the
sump and the engine’s interior.
8 Ensure that the sump and cylinder
block/crankcase mating surfaces are clean

and dry, then apply a coating of suitable
sealant to the sump mating surface.
9 Offer up the sump, locating it on its
retaining studs, and refit its retaining nuts and
bolts. Tighten the nuts and bolts evenly and
progressively to the specified torque.
10 Refit the exhaust front pipe as described
in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
11 Replenish the engine oil as described in
Chapter 1.

13 Oil pump - removal,

inspection and refitting

3

Removal

1 Remove the sump as described in Section 12.
2 Slacken and remove the three bolts
securing the oil pump in position (see
illustration). Disengage the pump sprocket
from the chain, and remove the oil pump. If
the pump locating dowel is a loose fit, remove
and store it with the retaining bolts for safe-
keeping.

Inspection

3 Examine the oil pump sprocket for signs of
damage and wear, such as chipped or missing
teeth. If the sprocket is worn, the pump
assembly must be renewed, as the sprocket is
not available separately. It is also
recommended that the chain and drive
sprocket, fitted to the crankshaft, is renewed at
the same time. On aluminium block engines,
renewal of the chain and drive sprocket is an
involved operation requiring the removal of the
main bearing ladder, and therefore cannot be
carried out with the engine still fitted to the
vehicle. On cast-iron block engines, the oil
pump drive sprocket and chain can be
removed with the engine in situ, once the
crankshaft sprocket has been removed and the
crankshaft oil seal housing has been unbolted.
Refer to Part D for further information.
4 Slacken and remove the bolts securing the
strainer cover to the pump body, then lift off
the strainer cover. Remove the relief valve
piston and spring (and guide pin - cast-iron
block engines only), noting which way round
they are fitted.

2C•12 TU series engine in-car repair procedures

11.38  . . . then with an angle tightening

gauge

12.5  Slacken and remove the sump nuts

and bolts, then remove the sump

13.2  The oil pump is retained by three

bolts

5 Examine the pump rotors and body for
signs of wear ridges and scoring. If worn, the
complete pump assembly must be renewed.
6 Examine the relief valve piston for signs of
wear or damage, and renew if necessary. The
condition of the relief valve spring can only be
measured by comparing it with a new one; if
there is any doubt about its condition, it
should also be renewed. Both the piston and
spring are available individually.
7 Thoroughly clean the oil pump strainer with
a suitable solvent, and check it for signs of
clogging or splitting. If the strainer is
damaged, the strainer and cover assembly
must be renewed.
8 Locate the relief valve spring, piston and
(where fitted) the guide pin in the strainer
cover, then refit the cover to the pump body.
Align the relief valve piston with its bore in the
pump. Refit the cover retaining bolts,
tightening them securely.

Refitting

9 Ensure that the locating dowel is in
position, then engage the pump sprocket with
its drive chain. Locate the pump on its dowel,
and refit the pump retaining bolts, tightening
them to the specified torque setting.
10 Refit the sump as described in Section 12.

14 Crankshaft oil seals -

renewal

3

Right-hand oil seal

1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and
flanged spacer as described in Section 8.
Secure the timing belt clear of the working
area, so that it cannot be contaminated with
oil. Make a note of the correct fitted depth of
the seal in its housing.
2 Punch or drill two small holes opposite
each other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping
screw into each, and pull on the screws with
pliers to extract the seal. Alternatively, the seal
can be levered out of position using a suitable
flat-bladed screwdriver, taking great care not
to damage the crankshaft shoulder or seal
housing (see illustration).
3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any

burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean
engine oil, and carefully locate the seal on the
end of crankshaft. Note that its sealing lip
must face inwards. Take care not to damage
the seal lips during fitting.
5 Using a suitable tubular drift (such as a
socket) which bears only on the hard outer
edge of the seal, tap the seal into position, to
the same depth in the housing as the original
was prior to removal. The inner face of the
seal must end up flush with the inner wall of
the crankcase.
6 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the
crankshaft sprocket as described in Section
8.

Left-hand oil seal

7 Remove the flywheel as described in
Section 15.
8 Make a note of the correct fitted depth of
the seal in its housing. Punch or drill two small
holes opposite each other in the seal. Screw a
self-tapping screw into each, and pull on the
screws with pliers to extract the seal.
9 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
10 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with
clean engine oil, and carefully locate the seal
on the end of the crankshaft.
11 Using a suitable tubular drift, which bears
only on the hard outer edge of the seal, drive
the seal into position, to the same depth in the
housing as the original was prior to removal.
12 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the
flywheel as described in Section 15.

15 Flywheel - removal,

inspection and refitting

4

Removal

1 Remove the transmission as described in
Chapter 7A, then remove the clutch assembly
as described in Chapter 6.
2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking
the ring gear teeth with a screwdriver or a
similar arrangement to that shown in
illustration 8.10. Alternatively, bolt a strap
between the flywheel and the cylinder
block/crankcase. 

Do not attempt to lock the

flywheel in position using the locking pin
described in Section 3.
3 Slacken and remove the flywheel retaining
bolts, and discard them; they must be
renewed whenever they are disturbed.
4 Remove the flywheel. Do not drop it, as it is
very heavy. If the locating dowel is a loose fit
in the crankshaft end, remove and store it with
the flywheel for safe-keeping.

Inspection

5 If the flywheel’s clutch mating surface is
deeply scored, cracked or otherwise

damaged, the flywheel must be renewed.
However, it may be possible to have it
surface-ground; seek the advice of a Peugeot
dealer or engine reconditioning specialist.
6 If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing
teeth, it must be renewed. This job is best left
to a Peugeot dealer or engine reconditioning
specialist. The temperature to which the new
ring gear must be heated for installation is
critical and, if not done accurately, the
hardness of the teeth will be destroyed.

Refitting

7 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel
and crankshaft. Remove any remaining
locking compound from the threads of the
crankshaft holes, using the correct-size tap, if
available.

8 If the new flywheel retaining bolts are not
supplied with their threads already pre-
coated, apply a suitable thread-locking
compound to the threads of each bolt.
9 Ensure that the locating dowel is in
position. Offer up the flywheel, locating it on
the dowel, and fit the new retaining bolts.
10 Lock the flywheel using the method
employed on dismantling, and tighten the
retaining bolts to the specified torque.
11 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6.
Remove the locking tool, and refit the
transmission as described in Chapter 7A.

16 Engine/transmission

mountings - inspection and
renewal

3

Inspection

1 If improved access is required, raise the
front of the car and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
2 Check the mounting rubber to see if it is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal at any point; renew the mounting if any
such damage or deterioration is evident.
3 Check that all the mounting’s fasteners are
securely tightened; use a torque wrench to
check if possible.
4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar,
check for wear in the mounting by carefully
levering against it to check for free play. Where
this is not possible, enlist the aid of an assistant
to move the engine/transmission back and
forth, or from side to side, while you watch the
mounting. While some free play is to be
expected even from new components,
excessive wear should be obvious. If excessive
free play is found, check first that the fasteners
are correctly secured, then renew any worn
components as described below.

TU series engine in-car repair procedures  2C•13

2C

14.2  Using a screwdriver to lever out the

crankshaft front oil seal

If a suitable tap is not
available, cut two slots into
the threads of one of the old
flywheel bolts and use the

bolt to remove the locking compound
from the threads.

Renewal

Right-hand mounting

5 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
6 Place a jack beneath the engine, with a
block of wood on the jack head. Raise the jack
until it is supporting the weight of the engine.
7 Slacken and remove the three nuts
securing the right-hand engine mounting
upper bracket to the bracket on the cylinder
block. Remove the nut securing the bracket to
the mounting rubber, and lift off the bracket.
8 Lift the buffer plate off the mounting rubber
stud, then unscrew the mounting rubber from
the body.
9 Check carefully for signs of wear or damage
on all components, and renew them where
necessary.
10 On reassembly, securely tighten the
mounting rubber in the body.
11 Refit the buffer plate (where fitted) to the
mounting rubber stud, then install the
mounting bracket.
12 Tighten the mounting bracket retaining
nuts to the specified torque setting.
13 Remove the jack from underneath the
engine, and reconnect the battery negative
lead.

Left-hand mounting

14 Remove the battery and tray as described
in Chapter 5A.

15 Place a jack beneath the transmission,
with a block of wood on the jack head. Raise
the jack until it is supporting the weight of the
transmission.
16 Slacken and remove the mounting
rubber’s centre nut, and two retaining nuts
and remove the mounting from the engine
compartment.
17 If necessary, undo the two retaining bolts
and remove the mounting bracket from the
body. Disconnect the clutch cable from the
transmission (see Chapter 6) then unscrew
the retaining nuts and remove the bracket
from the top of the transmission.
18 Check carefully for signs of wear or
damage on all components, and renew them
where necessary.
19 Refit the bracket to the transmission,
tightening its mounting nuts to the specified
torque. Reconnect the clutch cable and adjust
as described in Chapter 6. Refit the mounting
bracket to the vehicle body and tighten its
bolts to the specified torque.
20 Fit the mounting rubber to the bracket and
tighten its retaining nuts to the specified
torque. Refit the mounting centre nut, and
tighten it to the specified torque.
21 Remove the jack from underneath the
transmission, then refit the battery as
described in Chapter 5.

Rear mounting

22 If not already done, firmly apply the
handbrake, then jack up the front of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
23 Unscrew and remove the bolt securing
the rear mounting link to the mounting on the
rear of the cylinder block.
24 Remove the bolt securing the rear
mounting link to the bracket on the
underbody. Withdraw the link.
25 To remove the mounting assembly it will
first be necessary to remove the right-hand
driveshaft as described in Chapter 8.
26 With the driveshaft removed, undo the
retaining bolts and remove the mounting from
the rear of the cylinder block.
27 Check carefully for signs of wear or
damage on all components, and renew them
where necessary.
28 On reassembly, fit the rear mounting
assembly to the rear of the cylinder block, and
tighten its retaining bolts to the specified
torque. Refit the driveshaft as described in
Chapter 8.
29 Refit the rear mounting link, and tighten
both its bolts to their specified torque
settings.
30 Lower the vehicle to the ground.

2C•14 TU series engine in-car repair procedures