Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, Plymouth Breeze Haynes. Manual - part 15

 

  Index      Manuals     Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, Plymouth Breeze Haynes (1995-2000). Repair Manual

 

Search            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Content   ..  13  14  15  16   ..

 

 

Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, Plymouth Breeze Haynes. Manual - part 15

 

 

2C-18

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

17.8 All bolt holes in the block,

particularly the main bearing cap and

head bolt holes, should be cleaned and

restored with the appropriate tap (be sure

to remove the debris from the holes after

this operation)

2

Using a gasket scraper, remove all

traces of gasket material from the engine

block. Be very careful not to nick or gouge

the gasket sealing surfaces.

3

Remove the main bearing cap assembly

and separate the bearing inserts from the
caps and the engine block. Note: The upper

bearings are equipped with the oil groove and
hole, the thrust bearing is in the No. 3 (center)
location. Tag the bearings, indicating which

cylinder they were removed from, then set

them aside.

4

Remove all of the threaded oil gallery

plugs from the block. The plugs are usually
very tight - they may have to be drilled out
and the holes retapped. Use new plugs when
the engine is reassembled.
5

If the engine is extremely dirty it should

be taken to an automotive machine shop for
cleaning.
6

After the block is returned, clean all oil

holes and oil galleries one more time.
Brushes specifically designed for this pur-
pose are available at most auto parts stores.
Flush the passages with warm water until the
water runs clear, dry the block thoroughly
and wipe all machined surfaces with a light,
rust preventive oil. If you have access to
compressed air, use it to speed the drying
process and to blow out all the oil holes and
galleries. Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
7

If the block isn't extremely dirty or

slugged up, you can do an adequate cleaning
job with hot soapy water and a stiff brush.
Take plenty of time and do a thorough job.
Regardless of the cleaning method used, be
sure to clean all oil holes and galleries very
thoroughly, dry the block completely and
coat all machined surfaces with light oil.
8

The threaded holes in the block must be

clean to ensure accurate torque readings
during reassembly. Run the proper size tap
into each of the holes to remove rust, corro-
sion, thread sealant or sludge and restore

17.10 A large 1/2 drive socket on an

extension can be used to drive the new

core plugs into the block

damaged threads (see illustration). If possi-
ble, use compressed air to clear the holes of
debris produced by this operation. Now is a
good time to clean the threads on the head
bolts and the main bearing cap bolts as well.
9

Reinstall the bearing inserts in their cor-

rect locations and place the main bearing cap
assembly onto the engine block. Tighten the
bolts finger tight.

10

After coating the sealing surfaces of the

new core plugs with Permatex No. 2 sealant

(or equivalent), install them in the engine

block (see illustration). Make sure they're

driven in straight and seated properly or leak-
age could result. Special tools are available
for this purpose, but a large socket, with an
outside diameter that will just slip into the
core plug, a 1/2-inch drive extension and a

hammer will work just as well.
11

Apply non-hardening sealant (such as

Permatex No. 2 or Teflon pipe sealant) to the

<—CENTERLINE

OF

ENGINE--->

18.4a Measure the diameter of each

cylinder at a right angle to the engine

centerline (A) and parallel to the engine

centerline (B) - the cylinder out-of-round
is the difference between (A) and (B); the

cylinder taper is the difference between
(A) and (B) at the top of the cylinder and

(A) and (B) at the bottom of the cylinder

new oil gallery plugs and thread them into the
holes in the block. Make sure they're tight-

ened securely.

12 If the engine isn't going to be reassem-
bled right away, cover it with a large plastic

trash bag to keep it clean.

18 Engine block - inspection

Refer to illustrations 18.4a, 18.4b. 18.4c,

18.4d and 18.8
1

Before the block is inspected, it must be

cleaned as described in Section 17.
2

Visually check the block for cracks, rust

and corrosion. Look for stripped threads in

the threaded holes. It's also a good idea to

have the block checked for hidden cracks by
an automotive machine shop that has the
special equipment to do this type of work. If
defects are found, have the block repaired, if
possible, or replaced. Note: If the engine

block requires machining, be sure to send the
main bearing cap assembly along with the
block.

3

Check the cylinder bores for scuffing

and scoring.
4

Check the cylinders for taper and out-

of-round conditions as follows (see illustra-

tions):

18.4b Measure the diameter of each

cylinder just under the wear ridge (A), at

the center (B) and the bottom (C)

18.4c The ability to "feel" when the

telescoping gauge is at the correct point

will be developed over time, so work

slowly and repeat the check until you're

satisfied that the measurement is accurate

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

2C-19

18.4d To determine the diameter, the telescoping gauge is then

measured with a micrometer

18.8 Check the cylinder block head gasket surface for warpage

by placing a precision straightedge across the surface and trying

to slip a feeler gauge between the block and straightedge

a) Measure the diameter of each cylinder at

the top Oust under the ridge area), center

and bottom of the cylinder bore, parallel

to the crankshaft axis.

b) Next, measure each cylinder's diameter

at the same three locations perpendicu-
lar to the crankshaft axis.

c) The taper of each cylinder is the differ-

ence between the bore diameter at the
top of the cylinder and the diameter at
the bottom. The out-of-round specifica-
tion is the difference between the paral-
lel and perpendicular measurements.
Compare the results to the tolerance
listed in this Chapter's Specifications.

5

Repeat the procedure for the remaining

cylinders.
6

If the cylinder walls are badly scuffed or

scored, or if they're out-of-round or tapered
beyond the li mits listed in this Chapter's
Specifications,

have the engine

block

rebored and honed at an automotive machine
shop. If rebore is performed, oversize pis-
tons and rings will be required.
7

If the cylinders are in reasonably good

condition and not worn to the outside of the
li mits, and if the piston-to-cylinder bore clear-
ances are 
acceptable, then they don't have

to be rebored. Honing is all that's necessary

(see Section 19).
8

Using precision straightedge and a

feeler gauge, check the block deck (the sur-
face that mates 
with the cylinder head) for

distortion (see illustration). If it's distorted
beyond the tolerance listed in this Chapter's

Specifications, it can usually be resurfaced

by an automotive machine shop.

19 Cylinder honing

Refer to illustrations 19.3a and 19.3b

1

Prior to engine reassembly, the cylinder

bores must be honed so the new piston rings
will seat correctly and provide the best possi-
ble combustion chamber seal. Note: If you
don't have the tools or don't want to tackle
the honing operation, most automotive

machine shops will do it for a reasonable fee.

2

Before honing the cylinders, install the

main bearing cap assembly and tighten the
bolts to the torque li sted in this Chapter's
Specifications following the recommended

tightening

sequence

(see illustrations

25.13a, 25.13b and 25.13c). Make sure you

install the main bearing cap assembly on V6
models with the arrow facing the front (timing
belt end) of the engine.

3

Two types of cylinder hones are com-

monly available - the flex hone or "bottle
brush" type and the more traditional surfac-
ing hone 
with spring-loaded stones. Both will

do the job, but for the less experienced
mechanic the "bottle brush" hone will proba-
bly be easier to use. You'll also need some
kerosene or honing oil, rags and an electric
drill motor. Proceed as follows:

Mount the hone in the drill motor, com-

press the stones and slip it into the first

cylinder (see illustration). Be sure to
wear safety goggles or a face shield!
Lubricate the cylinder with plenty of
honing oil, turn on the drill and move the
hone up-and-down in the cylinder at a

pace that will produce a fine crosshatch
pattern on the cylinder walls 
(see illus -

tration). Ideally, the crosshatch lines
should intersect at approximately a 60-
degree angle. Be sure to use plenty of
lubricant and don't take off any more
material than is absolutely necessary to

produce the desired finish. Note: Piston

ring manufacturers may specify a

smaller crosshatch angle than the tradi-

tional 60-degrees - read and follow any

instructions included with the new rings.

c) Don't withdraw the hone from the cylin-

der while it's running. Instead, shut off
the drill and continue moving the hone

up-and-down in the cylinder until it

comes to a complete stop, then com-

press the stones and withdraw the hone.
If you're using a "bottle brush" type
hone, stop the drill motor, then turn the
chuck in the normal direction of rotation

while withdrawing the hone from the

cylinder.

d) Wipe the oil out of the cylinder and

repeat the procedure for the remaining
cylinders.

0-AC

HAYNES

19.3b The honing procedure should

produce a smooth crosshatch pattern

with the lines intersecting at

approximately 60 degree angles

19.3a A "bottle brush" type hone will

generally produce the best results in

most applications

a)

b)

2C

2C-20

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

20.2 Use a piston ring removal tool

(shown) to remove the rings from

the pistons

4

After the honing job is complete, cham-

fer the top edges of the cylinder bores with a
small file so the rings won't catch when the
pistons are installed. Be very careful not to
nick the cylinder walls with the end of the file.
5

The entire engine block must be washed

again very thoroughly with warm, soapy
water to remove all traces of the abrasive grit
produced during the honing operation. Note:
The bores can be considered clean when a
lint-free white cloth - dampened with clean
engine oil - used to wipe them out doesn't

pick up any more honing residue, which will

show up as gray areas on the cloth. Be sure
to run a brush through all oil holes and gal-
leries and flush them with running water.
6

After rinsing, dry the block and apply a

coat of light rust preventive oil or Vaseline to
all machined surfaces. Wrap the block in a

plastic trash bag to keep it clean and set it

aside until reassembly.

20 Pistons and connecting rods -

inspection

Refer to illustrations 20.2, 20.4a, 20.4b, 20.10
and 20.11

1

Before the inspection process can be

carried out, the piston/connecting rod
assemblies must be cleaned and the original

piston rings removed from the pistons. Note:

Always use new piston rings when the engine
is reassembled.
2

Using a piston ring removal tool (see

illustration), carefully remove the rings from

the pistons. Be careful not to nick or gouge
the pistons in the process.

3

Scrape all traces of carbon from the top

of the piston. A hand-held wire brush or a
piece of fine emery cloth can be used once

the majority of the deposits have been

scraped away. Do not, under any circum-
stances, use a wire brush mounted in a drill
motor to remove deposits from the pistons.

The piston material is soft and may be

eroded away by the wire brush.
4

Use a piston ring groove cleaning tool to

20.4a The piston ring grooves can be

cleaned using a special tool like

this one .. .

remove carbon deposits from the ring
grooves. If a tool isn't available, a piece bro-

ken off the old ring will do the job. Be very

careful to remove only the carbon deposits -
don't remove any metal and do not nick or
scratch the sides of the ring grooves (see

illustrations).

5

Once the deposits have been removed,

clean the piston/rod assemblies with solvent
and dry them with compressed air (if avail-

able). Make sure the oil return holes in the
back sides of the ring grooves are free from

obstructions.

6

If the pistons and cylinder walls aren't

damaged or worn excessively, and if the
engine block is not rebored, new pistons

won't be necessary. Normal piston wear

appears as even, vertical wear on the piston

thrust surfaces and slight looseness of the
top ring in its groove. However, new piston

rings should always be installed when an
engine is rebuilt.
7

Carefully inspect each piston for cracks

around the skirt, at the pin bosses and at the
ring lands.
8

Look for scoring and scuffing on the

thrust faces of the skirt, holes in the piston

crown and burned areas at the edge of the
crown. If the skirt is scored or scuffed, the
engine may have been suffering from over-
heating and/or abnormal combustion, which
caused excessively high operating tempera-
tures. The cooling and lubrication systems
should be checked thoroughly. A hole in the
piston crown is an indication that abnormal
combustion (pre-ignition) was occurring.
Burned areas at the edge of the piston crown
are usually evidence of spark knock (detona-
tion). If any of the above problems exist, the
causes must be corrected or the damage will
occur again. The causes may include intake
air leaks, incorrect fuel/air mixture, incorrect
ignition timing and EGR system malfunctions.
9

Corrosion of the piston, in the form of

small pits, indicates that coolant is leaking
into the combustion chamber and/or the
crankcase. Again, the cause must be cor

-

rected or the problem may persist in the

20.4b . . . or a short piece of an old

compression ring

20.10 Checking the piston ring

side clearance

rebuilt engine.
10

Measure the piston ring side clearance

by laying a new piston ring in each ring
groove and slipping a feeler gauge in beside
it (see illustration). Check the clearance at
three or four locations around each groove.
Be sure to use the correct ring for each
groove - they are different. If the side clear-
ance is greater than specified, new pistons
must be installed. If new pistons are installed,
repeat this step with the new pistons and
rings.
11

Check the piston-to-bore clearance by

measuring the cylinder bore (see Section 18)
and the piston diameter. Make sure the pis-
tons and bores are correctly matched. Mea-
sure the piston across the skirt 11/16-inch
(2.0L four-cylinder), 9/16-inch (2.4L four-
cylinder) or 0.080 inch (V6 engine) above the
bottom of the piston, at a 90-degree angle to
the piston pin (see illustration). Subtract the
piston diameter from the bore diameter to
obtain the piston-to-bore clearance. If it's
greater than the limit listed in this Chapter's
Specifications, the block must be rebored
and new pistons and rings installed.

12

Check the piston-to-rod clearance by

twisting the piston and rod in opposite direc-
tions. Any noticeable play indicates exces-

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

2C-21

20.11 Measure the piston diameter 90

degrees from the piston pin and the

specified distance from the bottom of the

piston skirt

21.1 Using a fine file, break the edge on

the crankshaft journal oil passages so

sharp edges won't gouge or scratch the

new bearings

21.2 Use a wire or stiff bristle brush to

clean the crankshaft oil passages - be

sure to flush them with solvent after

this operation

21.4 An easy way to check the surface finish on the bearing

journals is to rub a penny over the bearing surface - if the copper
transfers to the crankshaft, the surface is too rough and must be

reground by an automotive machine shop

21.7 Measure the diameter of each bearing journal at several

locations to determine if it's excessively worn or taper and out-of-

round conditions exist

2C

sive wear, which must be corrected. The pis-
ton/connecting rod assemblies should be
taken to an automotive machine shop to have
the pistons and rods resized and new pins
installed.
13 If the pistons must be removed from the
connecting rods for any reason, they should
be taken to an automotive machine shop for
disassembly. While at the automotive machine
shop, have the connecting rods checked for
bend and twist, since automotive machine
shops have special equipment specifically
used for this purpose. Note: Unless new pis-
tons and/or connecting rods must be

installed, do not disassemble the pistons and

connecting rods.
14 Inspect the connecting rods for cracks
and other damage. Temporarily remove the
rod caps, lift out the old bearing inserts, wipe

the rod and cap bearing surfaces clean and

inspect them for nicks, gouges and
scratches. After checking the rods, replace

the old bearings, slip the caps into place and
tighten the nuts (or bolts as applicable) finger
tight. Note: If the engine is being rebuilt

because of connecting rod knock, always

holes with a stone, file or scraper,

install new rods.

6

Check the rest of the crankshaft for

cracks and other damage. It should be mag-

nafluxed to reveal hidden cracks - an auto-

motive machine shop will handle the proce-
dure.
7

Using a micrometer, measure the diam-

eter of the main bearing and connecting rod
journals and compare the results to the toler-
ances listed in this Chapter's Specifications
(see illustration). By measuring the diameter
at a number of points around each journal's
circumference, you'll be able to determine
whether or not the journal is out-of-round.
Take the measurement at each end of the
journal, near the crank throws, to determine if
the journal is tapered.
8

If the crankshaft journals are damaged,

tapered, out-of-round or worn beyond the
li mits listed in this Chapter's Specifications,
the crankshaft must be reground by an auto-
motive machine shop. Be sure to obtain and
install the correct size bearing inserts if the
crankshaft is reconditioned.
9

Check the oil seal journals at each end

21

Crankshaft - inspection

Refer to illustration 21.1, 21.2, 21.4 and 21.7
1

Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oil

holes with a stone, file or scraper (see illus-
tration).
2

Clean the crankshaft with solvent and

dry it with compressed air (if available). Be
sure to clean the oil holes with a stiff brush
and flush them with solvent (see illustration).
Warning: 
If compressed air is used always
wear eye protection to prevent solvents or
debris from causing and injury 
to your eyes.
3

Check the main and connecting rod

bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring,
pits and cracks.
4

Rub a penny across each journal several

ti mes. If a journal picks up copper from the
penny, it's too rough and must be reground
(see illustration).
5

Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oil

2C-22

EXCESSIVE WEAR

TAPERED JOURNAL

22.1 Typical bearing wear patterns and probable causes

holes in a bearing shell, will also oil starve a
bearing and destroy it. When lack of lubrica-
tion is the cause of bearing failure, the bear-
ing material is wiped or extruded from the
steel backing of the bearing. Temperatures
may increase to the point where the steel
backing turns blue from overheating.
6

Driving habits can have a definite effect

on bearing life. Full throttle, low speed opera-
tion (lugging the engine) puts very high loads
on bearings, which tends to squeeze out the
oil film. These loads cause the bearings to
flex, which produces fine cracks in the bear-
ing face (fatigue failure). Eventually the bear-
ing material will loosen in pieces and tear
away from the steel backing. Short trip driv-
ing leads to corrosion of bearings because
insufficient engine heat is produced to drive
off the condensed water and corrosive
gases. These products collect in the engine
oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil is car-
ried to the engine bearings, the acid attacks
and corrodes the bearing material.
7

Incorrect bearing installation during

engine assembly will lead to bearing failure
as well. Tight fitting bearings leave insuffi-
cient bearing oil clearance and will result in oil

starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped

behind a bearing insert result in high spots on

the bearing which lead to failure.

23 Engine overhaul - reassembly

sequence

of the crankshaft for wear and damage. If the

seal has worn a groove in the journal, or if it's

nicked or scratched, the new seal may leak

when the engine is reassembled . In some
cases, an automotive machine shop may be
able to repair the journal by pressing on a thin
sleeve. If repair isn't feasible, a new or differ-
ent crankshaft must be installed.

10

Refer to Section 22 and examine the

main and rod bearing inserts.

22 Main and connecting rod

bearings - inspection

Refer to illustration 22.1
1

Even though the main and connecting

rod bearings should be replaced with new
ones during the engine overhaul, the old
bearings should be retained for close exami-
nation, as they may reveal valuable informa-
tion about the condition of the engine (see
illustration).
2

Bearing failure occurs because of lack

of lubrication, the presence of dirt or other
foreign particles, overloading the engine and
corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing
failure, it must be corrected before the engine
is reassembled to prevent it from happening
again.
3

When examining the bearings, remove

them from the engine block, the main bearing

caps, the connecting rods and the rod caps
and lay them out on a clean surface in the

same general position as their location in the
engine. This will enable you to match any
bearing problems with the corresponding
crankshaft journal.
4

Dirt and other foreign particles get into

the engine in a variety of ways. It may be left
in the engine during assembly, or it may pass
through filters or the PCV system. It may get
into the oil, and from there into the bearings.
Metal chips from machining operations and
normal engine wear are often present. Abra-
sives are sometimes left in engine compo-
nents after reconditioning, especially when
parts are not thoroughly cleaned using the
proper cleaning methods. Whatever the

source, these foreign objects often end up
embedded in the soft bearing material and
are easily recognized. Large particles will not
embed in the bearing and will score or gouge
the bearing and journal. The best prevention
for this cause of bearing failure is to clean all

parts thoroughly and keep everything spot-

lessly clean during engine assembly. Fre-
quent and regular engine oil and filter
changes are also recommended.
5

Lack of lubrication (or lubrication break-

down) has a number of interrelated causes.
Excessive heat (which thins the oil), overload-
ing (which squeezes the oil from the bearing
face) and oil leakage or throw off (from
excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump
or high engine speeds) all contribute to lubri-
cation breakdown. Blocked oil passages,
which usually are the result of misaligned oil

1

Before beginning engine reassembly,

make sure you have all the necessary new
parts, gaskets and seals as well as the fol-
lowing items on hand:

Common hand tools

A 1/2-inch drive torque wrench

Piston ring installation tool
Piston ring compressor
Plastigage set
Feeler 
gauges

A fine-tooth file

New engine oil
Engine assembly lube or moly-base

grease

Gasket sealants (anaerobic and RTV

type)

Thread locking compound

2

In order to save time and avoid prob-

lems, engine reassembly should be per-

formed in the following general order:

Piston rings installed on pistons
Crankshaft and main bearings

Piston/connecting rod assemblies
Rear main oil 
seal
Balance shaft carrier (2.4L four-cylinder)
Front 
case and oil pump assembly

Oil pan

Cylinder head(s) assembly

Water pump
Timing belt and sprockets
Timing belt cover(s)

Rocker arm cover(s)
Intake and exhaust manifolds
Driveplate

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

2C-23

24.3 Install the piston ring into the

cylinder then push it down into position

using a piston so the ring will be square in

the cylinder

24.4 With the ring square in the cylinder,

measure the ring end gap with a

feeler gauge

24.5 If the ring end gap is too small,

clamp a file in a vise as shown and file the

piston ring ends - be sure to remove all

raised material

2C

24

Piston rings - installation

Refer to illustrations 24.3, 24.4, 24.5, 24.9a,
24.9b, 24.11 and 24.12

1

Before installing the new piston rings,

the ring end gaps must be checked. It's
assumed that the piston ring side clearance
has been checked and verified correct (see
Section 20).
2

Lay out the piston/connecting rod

assemblies and the new ring sets so the ring
sets will be matched with the same piston
and cylinder during the end gap measure-
ment and engine assembly.
3

Insert the top (number one) ring into the

first cylinder and square it up with the cylin-
der walls by pushing it in with the top of the
piston (see illustration). The ring should be
near the bottom of the cylinder, at the lower
limit of ring travel.
4

To measure the end gap, slip feeler

gauges between the ends of the ring until a
gauge equal to the gap width is found (see
illustration). 
The feeler gauge should slide
between the ring ends with a slight amount of
drag. Compare the measurement to the toler-
ance listed in this Chapter's Specifications. If
the gap is larger or smaller than specified,
double-check to make sure you have the cor-
rect rings before proceeding.
5

If the gap is too small, it must be

enlarged or the ring ends may come in con-

tact with each other during engine operation,

which can cause serious damage to the
engine. The end gap can be increased by fil-
ing the ring ends very carefully with a fine file.
Mount the file in a vise equipped with soft

jaws, slip the ring over the file with the ends

contacting the file face and slowly move the
ring to remove material from the ends. When
performing this operation, file only by push-
ing the ring from the outside end of the file

towards the vise (see illustration).
6

Excess end gap isn't critical unless it's

greater than the limit listed in this Chapter's

Specifications. Again, double-check to make
sure you have the correct ring type and that

24.9a Installing the spacer/expander in

the oil ring groove

you are referencing the correct section and
category of specifications.
7

Repeat the procedure for each ring that

will be installed in the first cylinder and for
each ring in the remaining cylinders. Remem-
ber to keep rings, pistons and cylinders
matched up.
8

Once the ring end gaps have been

checked/corrected, the rings can be installed
on the pistons.
9

The oil control ring (lowest one on the

piston) is usually installed first. It's composed
of three separate components. Slip the
spacer/expander into the groove (see illus-

tration). If an anti-rotation tang is used, make

sure it's inserted into the drilled hole in the
ring groove. Next, install the upper side rail in

the same manner (see illustration). Don't use

a piston ring installation tool on the oil ring
side rails, as they may be damaged. Instead,
place one end of the side rail into the groove
between the spacer/expander and the ring
land, hold it firmly in place and slide a finger

around the piston while pushing the rail into
the groove. Finally, install the lower side rail.

10

After the three oil ring components have

been installed, check to make sure that both

the upper and lower side rails can be rotated
smoothly inside the ring grooves.

24.9b DO NOT use a piston ring

installation tool when installing the oil

control side rails

24.11 Piston ring assembly details

11

The number two (middle) ring is installed

next. It's usually stamped with a mark which
must face up, toward the top of the piston. Do
not mix up the top and middle rings, as they
have different cross-sections (see illustra-
tion). Note: 
Always follow the instructions

printed on the ring package or box - different
manufacturers may require different approach-

es.

2C-24

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

25.5a On four-cylinder engines,

install the upper bearings (with

grooves and holes) into the

engine block. Be sure to align

the oil holes and install the

thrust bearing in the center

bearing position (arrow)

OIL HOLES

LUBRICATION GROOVES

24.12 Use a piston ring installation tool to

install the 2nd and top rings - be sure the

directional mark on the piston ring(s) is

facing toward the top of the piston

12

Use a piston ring installation tool and

make sure the identification mark is facing
the top of the piston, then slip the ring into
the middle groove on the piston (see illustra-
tion). 
Don't expand the ring any more than
necessary to slide it over the piston.
13 Install the number one (top) ring in the
same manner. Make sure the mark is facing
up. Be careful not to confuse the number one
and number two rings (see illustration
24.11).
14

Repeat the procedure for the remaining

pistons and rings.

25 Crankshaft installation and main

bearing oil clearance check

1

Crankshaft installation is the first step in

engine reassembly. It's assumed at this point

that the engine block and crankshaft have

25.5b Main bearing

installation details - four-

cylinder engines

been cleaned, inspected and repaired or
reconditioned.
2

Position the engine block with the bot-

tom facing up.
3

Remove the mounting bolts and lift off

the main bearing cap assembly.
4

If they're still in place, remove the origi-

nal bearing inserts from the block and the
main bearing cap assembly. Wipe the bearing
surfaces of the block and main bearing cap
assembly with a clean, lint-free cloth. They
must be kept spotlessly clean. This is critical
for determining the correct bearing oil clear-
ance.

Main bearing oil clearance
check

Refer to illustrations 25.5a, 25.5b, 25.5c,
25.11, 25.13a, 25.13b, 25.13c and 25.15
5

Without mixing them up, clean the back

sides of the new upper main bearing inserts
(with grooves and oil holes) and lay one in
each main bearing saddle in the block. Each
upper bearing has an oil groove and oil hole
in it. Caution: The oil holes in the block must
line up with the oil holes in the upper bearing
inserts. 
The thrust bearing insert or thrust
washers (V6 engine) must be installed in the
No. 3 bearing position (see illustrations). V6
engines have two two-piece thrust washers
which are installed on each side of the No. 3
bearing. Install the thrust washers with the
grooved side toward the crankshaft (plain
sides should be facing each other). Install the
thrust washers so that one set has a tab
located in the block and the other set's tab is
in the main bearing cap assembly. Clean the
back sides of the lower main bearing inserts
(without grooves) and lay them in the corre-
sponding location in the main bearing cap
assembly. Make sure the tab on the bearing
insert fits into the recess in the block or main
bearing cap assembly. Caution: Do not ham-
mer the bearing insert into place and don't

nick or gouge the bearing faces. DO NOT
apply any lubrication at this time.

6

Clean the faces of the bearing inserts in

the block and the crankshaft main bearing
journals with a clean, lint-free cloth.

7

Check or clean the oil holes in the

crankshaft, as any dirt here can go only one

way - straight through the new bearings.

8

Once you're certain the crankshaft is

GROOVED

25.5c Crankshaft main bearing and thrust washer arrangement - V6 engine

UPPER

BEARINGS

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

2C-25

* INDICATES DOWEL LOCATION

25.11 Place the Plastigage (arrow) onto the crankshaft bearing

25.13a Main bearing cap assembly bolt tightening sequence -

journal as shown

clean, carefully lay it in position in the cylinder

block.

9

Before the crankshaft can be perma-

nently installed, the main bearing oil clear-
ance must be checked. Note: On four-cylin-
der engines, the crankshaft position sensor
must be removed prior to main bearing oil
clearance check 
(see Chapter 6 if necessary).
10

On 2.0L four-cylinder engines, make

sure the three locating dowels are in place on
the cylinder block. This is necessary for
proper alignment of the main bearing cap
assembly to the cylinder block and crank-
shaft.
11

Cut several pieces of the appropriate

size Plastigage (they must be slightly shorter

than the width of the main bearing journal)

and place one piece on each crankshaft main
bearing journal, parallel with the journal axis
as shown (see illustration).
12

Clean the faces of the bearing inserts in

the main bearing cap assembly. Hold the

bearing inserts in place and install the assem-
bly onto the crankshaft and cylinder block.

DO NOT disturb the Plastigage. Make sure
you install the main bearing cap assembly on

V6 models with the arrow facing the front

(ti ming belt end) of the engine.
13

Apply clean engine oil to all bolt threads

prior to installation, then install all bolts fin-
ger-tight. Tighten main bearing cap assembly
bolts in the sequence shown (see illustra-

tions) progressing in three steps, to the

2.0L four-cylinder engine

torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.
DO NOT rotate the crankshaft at any time
during this operation.
14

Remove the bolts in the reverse order of

the tightening sequence and carefully lift the
main bearing cap assembly straight up and
off the block. Do not disturb the Plastigage or
rotate the crankshaft. If the main bearing cap
assembly is difficult to remove, tap it gently

from side-to-side with a soft-face hammer to

loosen it.
15

Compare the width of the crushed Plas-

tigage on each journal to the scale printed on

25.15 Use the scale on the Plastigage

package to determine the bearing oil

clearance - be sure to measure the widest

part of the Plastigage and use the correct

scale; it comes with both standard and

metric scales

25.13c Main bearing cap assembly bolt tightening sequence - V6 engine

25.13b Main bearing cap

assembly bolt tightening

sequence - 2.4L four-

cylinder engine

2C

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Content   ..  13  14  15  16   ..