Peugeot 205 (954 cc, 1124 cc, 1360 cc, 1580 cc & 1905 cc). Manual - part 28

Buying spare parts

Spare parts are available from many

sources, including maker’s appointed
garages, accessory shops, and motor factors.
To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, it
will sometimes be necessary to quote the
vehicle identification number. If possible, it
can also be useful to take the old parts along
for positive identification. Items such as
starter motors and alternators may be
available under a service exchange scheme -
any parts returned should always be clean.

Our advice regarding spare part sources is

as follows.

Officially-appointed garages

This is the best source of parts which are

peculiar to your car, and which are not
otherwise generally available (eg badges,
interior trim, certain body panels, etc). It is
also the only place at which you should buy
parts if the vehicle is still under warranty. 

Accessory shops

These are very good places to buy

materials and components needed for the

maintenance of your car (oil, air and fuel
filters, spark plugs, light bulbs, drivebelts, oils
and greases, brake pads, touch-up paint, etc).
Components of this nature sold by a
reputable shop are of the same standard as
those used by the car manufacturer.

Besides components, these shops also sell

tools and general accessories, usually have
convenient opening hours, charge lower
prices, and can often be found not far from
home. Some accessory shops have parts
counters where the components needed for
almost any repair job can be purchased or
ordered.

Motor factors

Good factors will stock all the more

important components which wear out
comparatively quickly, and can sometimes
supply individual components needed for the
overhaul of a larger assembly (eg brake seals
and hydraulic parts, bearing shells, pistons,
valves, alternator brushes). They may also
handle work such as cylinder block reboring,
crankshaft regrinding and balancing, etc.

Tyre and exhaust specialists

These outlets may be independent, or

members of a local or national chain. They
frequently offer competitive prices when
compared with a main dealer or local garage,
but it will pay to obtain several quotes before
making a decision. When researching prices,
also ask what “extras” may be added - for
instance, fitting a new valve and balancing the
wheel are both commonly charged on top of
the price of a new tyre.

Other sources

Beware of parts or materials obtained from

market stalls, car boot sales or similar outlets.
Such items are not invariably sub-standard,
but there is little chance of compensation if
they do prove unsatisfactory. In the case of
safety-critical components such as brake
pads, there is the risk not only of financial loss
but also of an accident causing injury or
death.

Second-hand components or assemblies

obtained from a car breaker can be a good
buy in some circumstances, but this sort of
purchase is best made by the experienced
DIY mechanic.

Modifications are a continuing and

unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture.
Spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on
a numerical basis, the individual vehicle
numbers being essential to identify correctly
the component required.

The vehicle identification plate is located on

the right-hand front wing valance in the
engine compartment (see illustration).

The body serial number is stamped on the

scuttle crossmember above the vehicle
identification plate.

The  engine number is situated on the

cylinder block. On non-XU engine models
with an aluminium cylinder block, the number
is stamped on a plate which is riveted to the
flywheel end of the block; on later models with
a cast-iron block, the number is stamped on a

machined surface on the flywheel end of the
block. On early XU engine models, the
number is stamped on a plate which is riveted
to the timing belt end of the front of the
cylinder block; on later models, the number is
stamped on a machined surface at the
flywheel end of the front of the block.

Buying spare parts

REF•3

REF

Vehicle identification

Vehicle identification plate (1) and body serial number (2)

REF•4

General repair procedures

Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work

is carried out on the car or its components,
observe the following procedures and
instructions. This will assist in carrying out the
operation efficiently and to a professional
standard of workmanship.

Joint mating faces and gaskets

When separating components at their

mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.

Where a gasket is used between the mating

faces of two components, a new one must be
fitted on reassembly; fit it dry unless otherwise
stated in the repair procedure. Make sure that
the mating faces are clean and dry, with all
traces of old gasket removed. When cleaning a
joint face, use a tool which is unlikely to score
or damage the face, and remove any burrs or
nicks with an oilstone or fine file.

Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned

with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.

Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes

are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.

Oil seals

Oil seals can be removed by levering them

out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers or
some similar device in order to pull the seal free.

Whenever an oil seal is removed from its

working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.

The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily

damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original
sealing surface of the component cannot be
restored, and the manufacturer has not made
provision for slight relocation of the seal
relative to the sealing surface, the component
should be renewed.

Protect the lips of the seal from any surface

which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.

Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be

fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.

Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the

appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is

unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with
its face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).

Screw threads and fastenings

Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a

common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.

Studs are usually removed by locking two

nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a stud extractor. Always ensure that a
blind tapped hole is completely free from oil,
grease, water or other fluid before installing
the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause
the housing to crack due to the hydraulic
action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.

When tightening a castellated nut to accept

a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken
the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated
in the repair procedure.

When checking or retightening a nut or bolt

to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.

For some screw fastenings, notably

cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench
settings are no longer specified for the latter
stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being
called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque
wrench setting will be applied to the
bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed
by one or more stages of tightening through
specified angles.

Locknuts, locktabs and washers

Any fastening which will rotate against a

component or housing during tightening
should always have a washer between it and
the relevant component or housing.

Spring or split washers should always be

renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.

Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-

critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose their

effectiveness after long periods of use, and
should then be renewed as a matter of course.

Split pins must always be replaced with

new ones of the correct size for the hole.

When thread-locking compound is found

on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.

Special tools

Some repair procedures in this manual

entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring com-
pressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the manu-
facturer’s special tools are described, and are
shown in use. In some instances, where no
alternative is possible, it has been necessary
to resort to the use of a manufacturer’s tool,
and this has been done for reasons of safety
as well as the efficient completion of the repair
operation. Unless you are highly-skilled and
have a thorough understanding of the
procedures described, never attempt to
bypass the use of any special tool when the
procedure described specifies its use. Not
only is there a very great risk of personal
injury, but expensive damage could be
caused to the components involved.

Environmental considerations

When disposing of used engine oil, brake

fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department, or the
National Rivers Authority, for further advice.

With the universal tightening-up of legis-

lation regarding the emission of environmen-
tally-harmful substances from motor vehicles,
most vehicles have tamperproof devices fitted
to the main adjustment points of the fuel
system. These devices are primarily designed
to prevent unqualified persons from adjusting
the fuel/air mixture, with the chance of a
consequent increase in toxic emissions. If
such devices are found during servicing or
overhaul, they should, wherever possible, be
renewed or refitted in accordance with the
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.

Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.

The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit

should only be used for changing the
roadwheels - see “Wheel changing” at the
front of this manual. When carrying out any
other kind of work, raise the vehicle using a
hydraulic (or “trolley”) jack, and always
supplement the jack with axle stands.

The sill jacking points or their adjacent

re-inforced areas should be used as jacking
points for raising the car (see illustration). A
beam may be placed under the front
subframe and the front end jacked up under
that. The side-members of the front subframe
should be used as axle stand support points.

The rear side-members may be used in a
similar way.

Never work under, around, or near a raised

vehicle, unless it is adequately supported in at
least two places.

The radio/cassette unit fitted as standard or

optional equipment may be equipped with a
built-in security code, to deter thieves. If the
power source to the unit is cut, the anti-theft
system will activate. Even if the power source
is immediately reconnected, the
radio/cassette unit will not function until the

correct security code has been entered.
Therefore, if you do not know the correct
security code for the radio/cassette unit do
not disconnect either of the battery terminals,
or remove the radio/cassette unit from the
vehicle. 

To enter the correct security code, follow

the instructions provided with the
radio/cassette player or vehicle handbook.

If an incorrect code is entered, the unit will

become locked, and cannot be operated.

If this happens, or if the security code is lost

or forgotten, seek the advice of your Peugeot
dealer.

Jacking and vehicle support

REF•5

REF

Front jacking point

Jack supplied with tool kit (1) shown engaged with front jacking point (2)

Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system

REF•6

Tools and working facilities

Introduction

A selection of good tools is a fundamental

requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.
For the owner who does not possess any,
their purchase will prove a considerable
expense, offsetting some of the savings made
by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that
the tools purchased meet the relevant national
safety standards and are of good quality, they
will last for many years and prove an
extremely worthwhile investment.

To help the average owner to decide which

tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed in this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings: Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with
the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, and
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be
built up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools from the Special category when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.

Maintenance 
and minor repair tool kit

The tools given in this list should be

considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the
other); although more expensive than open-
ended ones, they do give the advantages of
both types of spanner.
M Combination spanners:

Metric - 8 to 19 mm inclusive

M Adjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx.)

M Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) - 

petrol models

M Spark plug gap adjustment tool - petrol 

models

M Set of feeler gauges

M Brake bleed nipple spanner

M Screwdrivers:

Flat blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
Cross blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia

M Combination pliers

M Hacksaw (junior)

M Tyre pump

M Tyre pressure gauge

M Oil can

M Oil filter removal tool

M Fine emery cloth

M Wire brush (small)

M Funnel (medium size)

Repair and overhaul tool kit

These tools are virtually essential for

anyone undertaking any major repairs to a
motor vehicle, and are additional to those
given in the Maintenance and minor repair list.
Included in this list is a comprehensive set of
sockets. Although these are expensive, they
will be found invaluable as they are so
versatile - particularly if various drives are
included in the set. We recommend the half-
inch square-drive type, as this can be used
with most proprietary torque wrenches. 

The tools in this list will sometimes need to

be supplemented by tools from the Special list:
M Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in

previous list (including Torx sockets)

M Reversible ratchet drive (for use with 

sockets)

M Extension piece, 250 mm (for use with 

sockets)

M Universal joint (for use with sockets)

M Torque wrench (for use with sockets)

M Self-locking grips

M Ball pein hammer

M Soft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or 

rubber)

M Screwdrivers:

Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby), 
and narrow (electrician’s) types
Cross blade – Long & sturdy, and short 
(chubby) types

M Pliers:

Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician’s)
Circlip (internal and external)

M Cold chisel - 25 mm

M Scriber

M Scraper

M Centre-punch

M Pin punch

M Hacksaw

M Brake hose clamp

M Brake/clutch bleeding kit

M Selection of twist drills

M Steel rule/straight-edge

M Allen keys (inc. splined/Torx type)

M Selection of files

M Wire brush

M Axle stands

M Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)

M Light with extension lead

Sockets and reversible ratchet drive

Clutch plate alignment set

Piston ring compressor

Spline bit set

Valve spring compressor

Tools and working facilities

REF•7

REF

Special tools

The tools in this list are those which are not

used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy
many of these tools. Where this is the case,
you could consider clubbing together with
friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a
joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against
a deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large
range of special tools for hire at modest rates.

The following list contains only those tools

and instruments freely available to the public,
and not those special tools produced by the
vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer
network. You will find occasional references
to these manufacturers’ special tools in the
text of this manual. Generally, an alternative
method of doing the job without the vehicle
manufacturers’ special tool is given. However,
sometimes there is no alternative to using
them. Where this is the case and the relevant
tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will
have to entrust the work to a dealer.
M Valve spring compressor

M Valve grinding tool

M Piston ring compressor

M Piston ring removal/installation tool

M Cylinder bore hone

M Balljoint separator

M Coil spring compressors (where applicable)

M Two/three-legged hub and bearing puller

M Impact screwdriver

M Micrometer and/or vernier calipers

M Dial gauge

M Stroboscopic timing light

M Dwell angle meter/tachometer

M Universal electrical multi-meter

M Cylinder compression gauge

M Hand-operated vacuum pump and gauge

M Clutch plate alignment set

M Brake shoe steady spring cup removal tool

M Bush and bearing removal/installation set

M Stud extractors

M Tap and die set

M Lifting tackle

M Trolley jack

Buying tools

Reputable motor accessory shops and

superstores often offer excellent quality tools
at discount prices, so it pays to shop around.

Remember, you don’t have to buy the most

expensive items on the shelf, but it is always
advisable to steer clear of the very cheap
tools. Beware of ‘bargains’ offered on market
stalls or at car boot sales. There are plenty of
good tools around at reasonable prices, but
always aim to purchase items which meet the
relevant national safety standards. If in doubt,
ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for
advice before making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of tools

Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is

necessary to keep the tools in a clean and
serviceable condition. After use, always wipe
off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a
clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.
Never leave them lying around after they have
been used. A simple tool rack on the garage
or workshop wall for items such as
screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store
all normal spanners and sockets in a metal
box. Any measuring instruments, gauges,
meters, etc, must be carefully stored where
they cannot be damaged or become rusty.

Take a little care when tools are used.

Hammer heads inevitably become marked,
and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their
blades from time to time. A little timely
attention with emery cloth or a file will soon
restore items like this to a good finish.

Working facilities

Not to be forgotten when discussing tools

is the workshop itself. If anything more than
routine maintenance is to be carried out, a
suitable working area becomes essential.

It is appreciated that many an owner-

mechanic is forced by circumstances to
remove an engine or similar item without the
benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done
this, any repairs should always be done under
the cover of a roof.

Wherever possible, any dismantling should

be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at
a suitable working height.

Any workbench needs a vice; one with a jaw

opening of 100 mm is suitable for most jobs.
As mentioned previously, some clean dry
storage space is also required for tools, as well
as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up
paints etc, which become necessary.

Another item which may be required, and

which has a much more general usage, is an
electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8
mm. This, together with a good range of twist
drills, is virtually essential for fitting
accessories.

Last, but not least, always keep a supply of

old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags
available, and try to keep any working area as
clean as possible.

Stroboscopic timing light 

Stud extractor set

Compression tester

Dial test indicator (“dial gauge”)

Micrometer set

REF•8

MOT test checks

This is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test.

Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the same
standard as the professional MOT tester. However, working through
the following checks will enable you to identify any problem areas
before submitting the vehicle for the test.

Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the tester

has discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of such
discretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative or
friend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If the
vehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester may
be more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle is
scruffy and apparently neglected.

It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here,

based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standards
are becoming increasingly stringent, although there are some
exemptions for older vehicles. For full details obtain a copy of the Haynes
publication Pass the MOT! (available from stockists of Haynes manuals).

An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks.

The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:

Handbrake

M Test the operation of the handbrake.
Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicates
incorrect brake or cable adjustment.
M Check that the handbrake cannot be
released by tapping the lever sideways. Check
the security of the lever mountings.

Footbrake

M Depress the brake pedal and check that it
does not creep down to the floor, indicating a
master cylinder fault. Release the pedal, wait
a few seconds, then depress it again. If the
pedal travels nearly to the floor before firm
resistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair is
necessary. If the pedal feels spongy, there is
air in the hydraulic system which must be
removed by bleeding.

M Check that the brake pedal is secure and in
good condition. Check also for signs of fluid
leaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, which
would indicate failed seals in the brake master
cylinder.
M Check the servo unit (when applicable) by
operating the brake pedal several times, then
keeping the pedal depressed and starting the
engine. As the engine starts, the pedal will
move down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose or
the servo itself may be faulty.

Steering wheel and column 

M Examine the steering wheel for fractures or
looseness of the hub, spokes or rim. 
M Move the steering wheel from side to side
and then up and down. Check that the 
steering wheel is not loose on the column,
indicating wear or a loose retaining nut.
Continue moving the steering wheel as before,
but also turn it slightly from left to right. 
M Check that the steering wheel is not loose
on the column, and that there is no abnormal

movement of the steering wheel, indicating
wear in the column support bearings or 
couplings.

Windscreen and mirrors 

M The windscreen must be free of cracks or
other significant damage within the driver’s
field of view. (Small stone chips are
acceptable.) Rear view mirrors must be
secure, intact, and capable of being adjusted.

1

Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT

1

Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S
SEAT

2

Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
ON THE GROUND

3

Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
RAISED AND THE
WHEELS FREE TO
TURN

4

Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S
EXHAUST EMISSION
SYSTEM

MOT test checks

REF•9

REF

Seat belts and seats 

Note: The following checks are applicable to
all seat belts, front and rear.

M Examine the webbing of all the belts
(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious
fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten
each belt to check the buckles. If applicable,
check the retracting mechanism. Check the
security of all seat belt mountings accessible
from inside the vehicle.
M The front seats themselves must be
securely attached and the backrests must
lock in the upright position.

Doors 

M Both front doors must be able to be opened
and closed from outside and inside, and must
latch securely when closed.

Vehicle identification

M Number plates must be in good condition,
secure and legible, with letters and numbers
correctly spaced – spacing at (A) should be
twice that at (B).

M The VIN plate and/or homologation plate
must be legible.

Electrical equipment

M Switch on the ignition and check the 
operation of the horn.
M Check the windscreen washers and wipers,
examining the wiper blades; renew damaged
or perished blades. Also check the operation
of the stop-lights.

M Check the operation of the sidelights and
number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors
must be secure, clean and undamaged. 
M Check the operation and alignment of the
headlights. The headlight reflectors must not
be tarnished and the lenses must be
undamaged.
M Switch on the ignition and check the 
operation of the direction indicators (including
the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard
warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and
stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it
does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the
rear light cluster.
M Check the operation of the rear foglight(s),
including the warning light on the instrument
panel or in the switch.

Footbrake

M Examine the master cylinder, brake pipes
and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings, 
corrosion or other damage.  

M The fluid reservoir must be secure and the
fluid level must be between the upper (A) and
lower (B) markings.

M Inspect both front brake flexible hoses for
cracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn the
steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the
hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any
part of the steering or suspension mechanism.
With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check
the hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.

Steering and suspension

M Have your assistant turn the steering wheel
from side to side slightly, up to the point where
the steering gear just begins to transmit this
movement to the roadwheels. Check for
excessive free play between the steering
wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear or
insecurity of the steering column joints, the
column-to-steering gear coupling, or the
steering gear itself.
M Have your assistant turn the steering wheel
more vigorously in each direction, so that the
roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,
examine all the steering joints, linkages,
fittings and attachments. Renew any
component that shows signs of wear or 
damage. On vehicles with power steering,
check the security and condition of the 
steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.
M Check that the vehicle is standing level,
and at approximately the correct ride height.

Shock absorbers

M Depress each corner of the vehicle in turn,
then release it. The vehicle should rise and
then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle
continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber
is defective. A shock absorber which has
seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.

2

Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE
GROUND

REF•10

MOT test checks

Exhaust system

M Start the engine. With your assistant 
holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the
entire system for leaks. Repair or renew
leaking sections.

Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,
and securely support it on axle stands.
Position the stands clear of the suspension
assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are
clear of the ground and that the steering
can be turned from lock to lock.

Steering mechanism 

M Have your assistant turn the steering from
lock to lock. Check that the steering turns
smoothly, and that no part of the steering
mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls
any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body
structure.
M Examine the steering rack rubber gaiters
for damage or insecurity of the retaining clips.
If power steering is fitted, check for signs of
damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or
connections. Also check for excessive
stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing
split pin or locking device, or severe corrosion
of the body structure within 30 cm of any
steering component attachment point.

Front and rear suspension and
wheel bearings 

M Starting at the front right-hand side, grasp
the roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock
positions and shake it vigorously. Check for
free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,
suspension balljoints, or suspension mount-
ings, pivots and attachments.
M Now grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions and repeat the previous
inspection. Spin the wheel, and check for
roughness or tightness of the front wheel
bearing.

M If excess free play is suspected at a
component pivot point, this can be confirmed
by using a large screwdriver or similar tool and
levering between the mounting and the
component attachment. This will confirm
whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its
retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the bolt
holes can often become elongated).

M Carry out all the above checks at the other
front wheel, and then at both rear wheels.

Springs and shock absorbers 

M Examine the suspension struts (when
applicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,
or damage to the casing. Also check the
security of the mounting points.
M If coil springs are fitted, check that the
spring ends locate in their seats, and that the
spring is not corroded, cracked or broken.
M If leaf springs are fitted, check that all
leaves are intact, that the axle is securely
attached to each spring, and that there is no
deterioration of the spring eye mountings,
bushes, and shackles.

M The same general checks apply to vehicles
fitted with other suspension types, such as
torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.
Ensure that all mountings and attachments are
secure, that there are no signs of excessive
wear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulic
types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged
pipes.
M Inspect the shock absorbers for signs of
serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the
mounting bushes or attachments, or damage
to the body of the unit.

Driveshafts
(fwd vehicles only)

M Rotate each front wheel in turn and inspect
the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or
damage. Also check that each driveshaft is
straight and undamaged.

Braking system 

M If possible without dismantling, check
brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure
that the friction lining material has not worn
excessively, (A) and that the discs are not
fractured, pitted, scored or   badly worn (B).

M Examine all the rigid brake pipes
underneath the vehicle, and the flexible
hose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafing
or insecurity of the pipes, and for signs of
bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or
deterioration of the flexible hoses.
M Look for signs of fluid leaks at the brake
calipers or on the brake backplates. Repair or
renew leaking components.
M Slowly spin each wheel, while your
assistant depresses and releases the
footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating
and does not bind when the pedal is released.

3

Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED
AND THE WHEELS FREE TO
TURN