Peugeot 205 (954 cc, 1124 cc, 1360 cc, 1580 cc & 1905 cc). Manual - part 22

7 If necessary, the intermediate shaft can be
removed after prising out the grommet and
unscrewing the bottom clamp bolt (see
illustration).
8 To remove the steering lock, unscrew the
retaining bolt then, with the ignition key
aligned with the small arrow between the ‘A’
and ‘M’ positions, depress the plunger in the
housing and withdraw the lock (see
illustration).

Refitting

9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

15 Steering gear - removal and

refitting

Manual steering gear

Removal

1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove
the front roadwheels.

2 Unscrew the track rod end locknuts then
use a separator tool to detach the track rod
end balljoints from the hub carrier steering
arms.
3 Mark the lower column in relation to the
pinion on the steering gear.
4 Unscrew and remove the column-to-pinion
clamp bolt.

5 Unscrew and remove the two mounting
bolts and withdraw the steering gear from one
side of the subframe (see illustration).

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but tighten
all nuts and bolts to the specified torque. On
completion, have the front wheel toe setting
checked (see Section 21).

Power-assisted steering gear

Removal

7 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove
the front roadwheels.
8 Prepare a suitable container, then
disconnect the fluid pipes from the steering
gear, and allow the fluid to drain into the
container.
9 Unscrew the track rod end balljoint
locknuts, then use a separator tool to detach
the track rod end balljoints from the hub
carrier steering arms.
10 Mark the lower column in relation to the
pinion on the steering gear.
11 Unscrew and remove the
column-to-pinion clamp bolt.
12 On manual transmission models,
disconnect the three gearchange control rods
from the levers on the transmission.
13 Extract the spring clip from the
gearchange linkage (see illustration), then
unclip the transmission selector and

10•8 Suspension and steering

14.7 Steering column intermediate shaft

(arrowed)

14.8 Steering column and lock assembly

components

1 Bolt
2 Steering lock and ignition

switch

3 Steering column
4 Mounting nut
5 Clamp bolt and nut

15.5 Steering gear mounting bolt locations (arrowed)

engagement rods, and support them in an
upright position out of the way, using wire or
string.
14 Remove the two steering gear securing
bolts, and recover the spacer tubes from the
subframe, then disconnect the steering gear
pinion from the steering column shaft.
15 Support the front subframe using a trolley
jack and interposed block of wood positioned
under the subframe crossmember.
16 Remove the four bolts securing the rear of
the subframe to the body, and the two nuts or
bolts, as applicable, securing the front of the
subframe to the body (see illustration). Also
remove the nut and bolt from the lower engine
mounting.
17 Carefully lower the subframe sufficiently

to enable removal of the steering gear,
ensuring that the subframe is adequately
supported.
18 Rotate the steering gear towards the rear
of the vehicle, and withdraw the assembly
over the rear of the subframe, taking care not
to damage the rack bellows.

Refitting

19 Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing
in mind the following points:

a) Ensure that the spacer tubes are fitted to

the steering gear securing bolts.

b) Tighten all fixings to the specified torque.
c) Ensure that the marks made on the

steering gear pinion and the lower column
during removal are aligned.

d) When reconnecting the fluid pipes to the

steering gear, the high pressure fluid pipe
must be vertical (see illustration).

e) Secure the hose to the high-pressure fluid

pipe using a cable-tie.

f) Check the gearchange mechanism for

correct operation after reconnecting the
linkages.

g) On completion, bleed the power steering

hydraulic system as described in Section
17, and have the front wheel toe setting
checked (see Section 21).

16 Steering gear rubber bellows

- renewal

1 Remove the relevant track rod end, as
described in Section 19.
2 Release the clips from each end of the
bellows then ease the bellows from the
steering gear and pull it from the track rod.
3 Clean the track rod and bellows location on
the steering gear.
4 Slide the new bellows onto the track rod
and steering gear, check that it is not twisted,
then fit the clips.
5 Refit the track rod end with reference to
Section 19.

17 Power steering system -

bleeding

1 This procedure will only be necessary when
any part of the hydraulic system has been
disconnected.
2 Referring to “Weekly checks”, remove the
fluid reservoir filler cap, and top-up with the
specified fluid to the maximum level mark.

Suspension and steering 10•9

15.13 Extract the spring clip (6) from the gearchange linkage

15.16 Front subframe attachments

9 Rear securing bolts
10 Front securing bolts

11 Lower engine mounting nut

15.19 Correct refitting of power assisted steering gear

High-pressure pipe

Column-to-pinion clamp bolt

Hose secured with cable tie

3 With the engine stopped, slowly move the
steering from lock-to-lock several times to
purge out the trapped air, then top-up the
level in the fluid reservoir. Repeat this
procedure until the fluid level in the reservoir
does not drop any further.
4 Start the engine, then slowly move the
steering from lock-to-lock several times to
purge out any remaining air in the system.
Repeat this procedure until bubbles cease to
appear in the fluid reservoir.
5 If, when turning the steering, an abnormal
noise is heard from the fluid lines, it indicates
that there is still air in the system. Check this
by turning the wheels to the straight-ahead
position and switching off the engine. If the
fluid level in the reservoir rises, then air is
present in the system, and further bleeding is
necessary.
6 Once all traces of air have been removed
from the power steering hydraulic system,
turn the engine off and allow the system to
cool. Once cool, check that the fluid level is
up to the maximum mark on the power
steering fluid reservoir, topping-up if
necessary.

18 Power steering pump -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Remove the alternator as described in
Chapter 5A.
2 Prepare a suitable container, then
disconnect the fluid hoses from the pump,
and allow the fluid to drain into the container.
3 Unscrew and remove the power steering
pump mounting bolts, then withdraw the
pump.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on
completion, tension the drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1, and bleed the power steering
hydraulic system as described in Section 17.

19 Track rod end - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove
the relevant front roadwheel.
2 Loosen the locknut on the track rod end by
a quarter of a turn.
3 Unscrew the balljoint locknut and use an
extractor tool to separate the balljoint tapered
shank from the hub carrier steering arm (see
illustration).
4 Unscrew the track rod end from the track
rod, noting the number of turns necessary to
remove it. Remove the locknut from the track
rod end threads.

Refitting

5 Screw on the locknut then screw the new
track rod end the same number of turns onto
the track rod.
6 Clean the taper surfaces then fit the
balljoint shank to the hub carrier steering arm
and tighten the nut to the specified torque.

7 Tighten the locknut on the track rod end.
8 Refit the roadwheel and lower the car to the
ground.
9 On completion, have the front wheel toe
setting checked (see Section 21).

20 Track rod - removal and

refitting

Removal

Note: A new inner balljoint lockwasher must
be used on refitting.
1 Remove the track rod end as described in
Section 19.
2 Release the retaining clips and slide the
rubber bellows off the end of the steering gear
housing and track rod (see illustration).
3 Unscrew the track rod inner balljoint from
the steering rack end, preventing the steering
rack from turning by holding the balljoint
lockwasher with a pair of grips. Take great
care not to mark the surfaces of the rack and
balljoint.
4 Remove the track rod assembly, and
discard the lockwasher - a new one must be
used on refitting.
5 Examine the track rod inner balljoint for
signs of slackness or tight spots, and check
that the track rod itself is straight and free from
damage. If necessary, renew the track rod.

Refitting

6 Locate the new lockwasher assembly on
the end of the steering rack, and apply a few
drops of locking fluid to the track rod inner
balljoint threads.
7 Screw the balljoint into the steering rack,
and tighten it to the specified torque whilst
retaining the lockwasher with a pair of grips.
Again, take great care not to damage or mark
the track rod balljoint or steering rack.
8 Carefully slide on the rubber bellows, and
locate it on the steering gear housing. Turn
the steering fully from lock-to-lock, to check
that the gaiter is correctly positioned on the
track rod, then secure it in position with new
retaining clips.
9 Refit the track rod end as described in
Section 19.

10•10 Suspension and steering

19.3 Separating the track rod end from the

hub carrier steering arm

1 Bellows
2 Lock washer
3 Track rod

4 Locknut
5 Track rod end

20.2 Track rod components

If difficulty is experienced in
loosening or tightening a
balljoint taper pin nut due to
the taper pin turning in the

eye, apply pressure with a jack or long
lever to the balljoint socket to force the
taper pin into its conical seat.

21 Wheel alignment and

steering angles - general
information

1 A car’s steering and suspension geometry
is defined in four basic settings - all angles are
expressed in degrees (toe settings are also
expressed as a measurement); the relevant
settings are camber, castor, steering axis
inclination, and toe-setting. With the
exception of front wheel toe-setting, none of
these settings are adjustable.

Front wheel toe setting -
checking and adjustment

2 Due to the special measuring equipment
necessary to accurately check the wheel
alignment, and the skill required to use it
properly, checking and adjustment is best left
to a Peugeot dealer or similar expert. Note
that most tyre-fitting shops now possess
sophisticated checking equipment. The
following is provided as a guide, should the
owner decide to carry out a DIY check.
3 The front wheel toe setting is checked by
measuring the distance between the front and

rear inside edges of the roadwheel rims.
Proprietary toe measurement gauges are
available from motor accessory shops.
Adjustment is made by screwing the track rod
ends in or out of their track rods, to alter the
effective length of the track rod assemblies.
4 For accurate checking, the vehicle must
be at the kerb weight, ie unladen and with a
full tank of fuel, and the ride height must be
correct (see Section 12).
5 Before starting work, check the tyre
pressures and tread wear, the condition of the
hub bearings, the steering wheel free play,
and the condition of the front suspension
components (see Chapter 1). Correct any
faults found.
6 Park the vehicle on level ground, check that
the front roadwheels are in the straight-ahead
position, then rock the rear and front ends to
settle the suspension. Release the handbrake,
and roll the vehicle backwards 1 metre, then
forwards again, to relieve any stresses in the
steering and suspension components.
7 Measure the distance between the front
edges of the wheel rims and the rear edges of
the rims. Subtract the rear measurement from
the front measurement, and check that the
result is within the specified range.
8 If adjustment is necessary, apply the
handbrake, then jack up the front of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Turn the
steering wheel onto full-left lock, and record
the number of exposed threads on the right-
hand track rod end. Now turn the steering
onto full-right lock, and record the number of
threads on the left-hand side. If there are the
same number of threads visible on both sides,
then subsequent adjustment should be made
equally on both sides. If there are more
threads visible on one side than the other, it
will be necessary to compensate for this
during adjustment. Note: It is most important

that after adjustment, the same number of
threads are visible on each track rod end.
9 First clean the track rod end threads; if they
are corroded, apply penetrating fluid before
starting adjustment. Release the rubber
bellows outboard clips (where necessary), and
peel back the bellows; apply a smear of
grease to the inside of the bellows, so that
both are free, and will not be twisted or
strained as their respective track rods are
rotated.
10 Use a straight-edge and a scriber or
similar to mark the relationship of each track
rod to its track rod end then, holding each
track rod in turn, unscrew its locknut fully.
11 Alter the length of the track rods, bearing
in mind the note made in paragraph 8. Screw
them into or out of the track rod ends, rotating
the track rod using an open-ended spanner
fitted to the flats provided on the track rod.
Shortening the track rods (screwing them into
their track rod ends) will reduce toe-
in/increase toe-out (see illustration).
12 When the setting is correct, hold the track
rods and securely tighten the track rod end
locknuts. Count the exposed threads to check
the length of both track rods. If they are not
the same, then the adjustment has not been
made equally, and problems will be
encountered with tyre scrubbing in turns;
also, the steering wheel spokes will no longer
be horizontal when the wheels are in the
straight-ahead position.
13 If the track rod lengths are the same,
lower the vehicle to the ground and re-check
the toe setting; re-adjust if necessary. When
the setting is correct, securely tighten the
track rod end locknuts. Ensure that the rubber
bellows are seated correctly, and are not
twisted or strained, and secure them in
position with new retaining clips (where
necessary).

Suspension and steering 10•11

21.11 Adjusting the front wheel toe setting

10•12

Notes

Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings

Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Bonnet - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Bonnet lock and remote control cable - removal, refitting and

adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Bumpers - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Door - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Door, boot, tailgate and bonnet check and lubrication  . .See Chapter 1
Door (Cabriolet models) - dismantling and reassembly  . . . . . . . . . . 13
Door (Hatchback and Van models) - dismantling and reassembly  . . 12
Door trim panel - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Facia panel - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Front grille - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
General information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Glovebox - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Grab handles - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Hood and rear window (Cabriolet models) - removal and refitting  . . 14

Maintenance - bodywork and underframe  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Maintenance - upholstery and carpets  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Major body damage - repair  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Minor body damage - repair  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Power-operated hood components (Cabriolet models) - general

information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Rear quarter glass and regulator (Cabriolet models) - removal and

refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Rear quarter glass (GTI models) - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . 19
Seat belt check  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Seats - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Sunroof - general information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Sunroof glass - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Tailgate - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Tailgate lock - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Windscreen and tailgate glass - general information  . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

11•1

Contents

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional

Degrees of difficulty

General information

The body shell is of one-piece design and

safety cell construction, whereby the outer
members yield progressively and in a
controlled direction in the event of impact,
giving maximum protection to the passenger
compartment. The body panels are of
lightweight high strength steel.

The front wings are bolted to the main body

for ease of removal. The complete body is
given an extensive anti-corrosion treatment
during manufacture; including stone chip
protection and wax injection. Peugeot
guarantee the body against perforation as a
result of corrosion for a period of six years
provided the car is given periodic inspections
by a Peugeot garage.

Maintenance - bodywork and
underframe

The general condition of a vehicle’s

bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those parts
of the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheel
arches and the lower part of the engine
compartment.

The basic maintenance routine for the

bodywork is washing preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching

the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way to remove any
accumulated mud which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Oddly enough,
the best time to clean the underframe and
wheel arches is in wet weather when the mud
is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
weather the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically and this is
a good time for inspection.

Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-

based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the
underframe of the vehicle steam cleaned,
engine compartment included, so that a
thorough inspection can be carried out to see
what minor repairs and renovations are
necessary. Steam cleaning is available at
many garages and is necessary for removal of
the accumulation of oily grime which
sometimes is allowed to become thick in
certain areas. If steam cleaning facilities are

not available, there are one or two excellent
grease solvents available which can be brush
applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.
Note that these methods should not be used
on vehicles with wax-based underbody
protective coating or the coating will be
removed. Such vehicles should be inspected
annually, preferably just prior to winter, when
the underbody should be washed down and
any damage to the wax coating repaired using
underseal. Ideally, a completely fresh coat
should be applied. It would also be worth
considering the use of such wax-based
protection for injection into door panels, sills,
box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard
against rust damage where such protection is
not provided by the vehicle manufacturer.

After washing paintwork, wipe off with a

chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish
will give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen
has dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to
be taken with metallic paintwork as special
non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to
avoid damage to the finish.

Always check that the door and ventilator

opening drain holes and pipes are completely
clear so that water can be drained out. Bright
work should be treated in the same way as
paint work. Windscreens and windows can be
kept clear of the smeary film which often
appears by the use of a proprietary glass
cleaner. Never use any form of wax or other
body or chromium polish on glass.

Maintenance - upholstery and
carpets

Mats and carpets should be brushed or

vacuum cleaned regularly to keep them free of
grit. If they are badly stained remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging and
make quite sure they are dry before refitting.
Seats and interior trim panels can be kept
clean by wiping with a damp cloth and a
proprietary upholstery cleaner. If they do
become stained (which can be more apparent
on light coloured upholstery) use a little liquid
detergent and a soft nail brush to scour the
grime out of the grain of the material. Do not
forget to keep the headlining clean in the same
way as the upholstery. When using liquid
cleaners inside the vehicle do not over-wet the
surfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp
could get into the seams and padded interior
causing stains, offensive odours or even rot. If
the inside of the vehicle gets wet accidentally it
is worthwhile taking some trouble to dry it out
properly, particularly where carpets are
involved. Do not leave oil or electric heaters
inside the vehicle for this purpose.

Minor body damage - repair

Repair of minor scratches in
bodywork

If the scratch is very superficial, and does

not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint
from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.

Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a

fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden: then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.

Where the scratch has penetrated right

through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique
is required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint, to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners, to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and then quickly
sweep it across the surface of the stopper-
paste in the scratch; this will ensure that the
surface of the stopper-paste is slightly
hollowed. The scratch can now be painted
over as described earlier in this Section.

Repair of dents in bodywork

When deep denting of the vehicle’s

bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is
better to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 3 mm below the level of
the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being
“belled-out”.

Should the dent be in a section of the

bodywork which has a double skin or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.

The next stage of the repair is the removal

of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a really good “key” for
the filler paste.

To complete the repair see the Section on

filling and re-spraying.

Repair of Rust holes or gashes
in bodywork

Remove all paint from the affected area and

from an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wire
brush on a power drill. If these are not
available a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job just as effectively. With the paint
removed you will be able to gauge the severity
of the corrosion and therefore decide whether
to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or
to repair the affected area. New body panels
are not as expensive as most people think
and it is often quicker and more satisfactory
to fit a new panel than to attempt to repair
large areas of corrosion.

Remove all fittings from the affected area

except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards in order
to create a slight depression for the filler paste.

Wire brush the affected area to remove the

powdery rust from the surface of the
remaining metal. Paint the affected area with
rust inhibiting paint; if the back of the rusted
area is accessible treat this also.

Before filling can take place it will be

necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.

Aluminium or plastic mesh or glass fibre

matting is probably the best material to use for
a large hole. Cut a piece to the approximate
size and shape of the hole to be filled, then
position it in the hole so that its edges are
below the level of the surrounding bodywork. It
can be retained in position by several blobs of
filler paste around its periphery.

11•2 Bodywork and fittings

Aluminium tape should be used for small or

very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll and
trim it to the approximate size and shape
required, then pull off the backing paper (if
used) and stick the tape over the hole; it can
be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.

Bodywork repairs - filling and
re-spraying

Before using this Section, see the Sections

on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.

Many types of bodyfiller are available, but

generally speaking those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair;
some can be used directly from the tube. A
wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be
found invaluable for imparting a smooth and
well contoured finish to the surface of the filler.

Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card

or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack)
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
filler surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long the paste will become sticky and begin to
“pick up” on the applicator. Continue to add
thin layers of filler paste at twenty-minute
intervals until the level of the filler is just proud
of the surrounding bodywork.

Once the filler has hardened, excess can be

removed using a metal plane or file. From then
on, progressively finer grades of abrasive
paper should be used, starting with a 40
grade production paper and finishing with 400
grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap the
abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, or
wooden block - otherwise the surface of the
filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface the wet-and-dry
paper should be periodically rinsed in water.
This will ensure that a very smooth finish is
imparted to the filler at the final stage.

At this stage the “dent” should be

surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
of the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.

Spray the whole repair area with a light coat

of primer - this will show up any imperfections
in the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is
used, it can be mixed with cellulose thinners to
form a really thin paste which is ideal for filling

small holes. Repeat this spray and repair
procedure until you are satisfied that the
surface of the filler, and the feathered edge of
the paintwork are perfect. Clean the repair
area with clean water and allow to dry fully.

The repair area is now ready for final

spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape and several thicknesses of
newspaper for the masking operations.

Before commencing to spray, agitate the

aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint rather
than one thick one. Using 400 grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused with
water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint.

Spray on the top coat, again building up the

thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying in the centre of the repair area
and then, with a single side-to-side motion,
work outwards until the whole repair area and
about 50 mm of the surrounding original
paintwork is covered. Remove all masking
material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on
the final coat of paint.

Allow the new paint at least two weeks to

harden, then, using a paintwork renovator or a
very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the
paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply
wax polish.

Plastic components

With the use of more and more plastic body

components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg
bumpers, spoilers, and in some cases major
body panels), rectification of more serious
damage to such items has become a matter
of either entrusting repair work to a specialist
in this field, or renewing complete
components. Repair of such damage by the
DIY owner is not really feasible owing to the
cost of the equipment and materials required
for effecting such repairs. The basic technique
involves making a groove along the line of the
crack in the plastic using a rotary burr in a
power drill. The damaged part is then welded
back together by using a hot air gun to heat
up and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.

Any excess plastic is then removed and the
area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is
important that a filler rod of the correct plastic
is used, as body components can be made of
a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,
ABS, polypropylene).

Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,

minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions,
this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork
filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.

If the owner is renewing a complete

component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will be left with the
problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing
which is compatible with the type of plastic
used. At one time the use of a universal paint
was not possible owing to the complex range
of plastics encountered in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally
speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber
satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to
obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which
consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer
and coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but basically the
method of use is to first apply the pre-primer
to the component concerned and allow it to
dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is
applied and left to dry for about an hour
before finally applying the special coloured
top coat. The result is a correctly coloured
component where the paint will flex with the
plastic or rubber, a property that standard
paint does not normally possess.

Major body damage - repair

The construction of the body is such that

great care must be taken when making cuts,
or when renewing major members, to
preserve the basic safety characteristics of
the structure. In addition, the heating of
certain areas is not advisable.

In view of the specialised knowledge

necessary for this work, and the alignment jigs
and special tools frequently required, the
owner is advised to consult a specialist body
repairer or Peugeot dealer.

Bonnet - removal and refitting

Removal

1 Open the bonnet and support with the stay.
2 Using a pencil, mark the position of the
hinges on the bonnet (see illustration).
3 Unbolt the braided lead and disconnect the
windscreen washer tubing (see illustration).

Bodywork and fittings 11•3

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