Peugeot 205 (954 cc, 1124 cc, 1360 cc, 1580 cc & 1905 cc). Manual - part 20

contact the brake pads or disc. Also refer
to the warning at the start of Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove
the rear roadwheels and ensure that the
handbrake is released.
2 Extract the spring clip (see illustration) and
slide out the locking key retaining the bottom
of the pads.
3 Withdraw the brake pads using pliers, while
pressing down on the upper locating ears
(see illustration).
4 Clean away all dust and dirt. Check for
brake fluid leakage around the piston dust
seal, and if evident, overhaul the caliper using
the basic procedure described in Section 7.
Check the brake disc for wear, and also check
that the rubber bellows on the guides are in
good condition.
5 The automatic handbrake adjustment must
now be retracted, in order to accommodate
the new disc pads. To do this, turn the piston

using a screwdriver in the grooves (see
illustration), at the same time using a second
screwdriver to apply an outward force to the
caliper. Do not damage the brake disc while
carrying out this procedure.
6 Set the piston so that the mark is horizontal,
and either above or below the piston groove
(see illustration).
7 Apply a little anti-squeal brake grease to the
pad contact areas on the caliper.
8 Locate the two brake pads in the caliper,
pressing the upper ears fully into position.
9 Slide the locking key into the caliper, and
secure with the spring clip.
10 Fully depress the brake pedal several
times to set the automatic adjuster and
position the brake pads in their normal
position.
11 Repeat the operations on the opposite
disc caliper.
12 Check the fluid level in the master cylinder
reservoir, and top-up if necessary.
13 Refit the roadwheels and lower the car to
the ground.

Front brake caliper - removal,
overhaul and refitting

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, and
to the warning at the beginning of Section 4
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Removal

1 Remove the brake pads as described in
Section 4.
2 To minimise fluid loss, unscrew the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap and place a piece
of polythene over the filler neck. Secure the
polythene with an elastic band ensuring that
an airtight seal is obtained. Alternatively, use a
brake hose clamp, a G-clamp, or a similar tool
with protected jaws, to clamp the front flexible
hydraulic hose.
3 Clean the area around the hydraulic hose-
to-caliper union, then slacken the hose union
half a turn. Be prepared for fluid spillage.
4 Unscrew the two mounting bolts or upper
guide bolt, as applicable, withdraw the caliper
from the disc then unscrew the caliper from
the flexible hose (see illustration). Plug the
hose to prevent loss of fluid.
5 Clean the exterior of the caliper.
6 On the Bendix type, unbolt the caliper
frame from the cylinder.

Overhaul

7 Prise the dust cover and ring from the end
of the piston (see illustrations).
8 Withdraw the piston from the cylinder. If
necessary use air pressure from a foot pump
in the fluid inlet to force the piston out.

9•8 Braking system

6.2 Brake pad locking key spring clip

(arrowed)

6.3 Removing the rear brake pads

6.5 Turning the caliper piston to retract the automatic

handbrake adjuster

1 Piston

6.6 Correct final position of caliper piston

1 Piston

2 Mark

3 Groove

9 Prise the seal from inside the cylinder,
taking care not to damage the cylinder wall.
10 If required, dismantle the sliding guides.
On the Bendix type unbolt the endplate from
the guides and remove the rubber dust
covers. Keep the guides identified for
location.
11 Clean all the components using
methylated spirit or clean brake fluid then
examine them for wear and damage. Check
the piston and cylinder surfaces for scoring,
excessive wear and corrosion, and if evident
renew the complete caliper assembly.
Similarly check the sliding guides. If the
components are in good condition obtain a
repair kit which will contain all the necessary
rubber seals and other renewable items.
12 Dip the new seal in fresh brake fluid then
locate it in the cylinder groove using the
fingers only to manipulate it.
13 Dip the piston in brake fluid and insert it in
the cylinder, twisting it as necessary to locate
it in the seal.
14 Fit the dust cover and ring over the end of
the piston and cylinder.
15 Lubricate the sliding guides with the
grease supplied and refit them, together with
the new seals. On the Bendix type refit the
endplate and tighten the bolts.
16 On the Bendix type, refit the caliper frame
and tighten the bolts.

Refitting

17 To refit the caliper, first screw it onto the
flexible hose and locate it over the brake disc
so that the hose is not twisted.
18 Clean the mounting bolt threads and
apply locking fluid. Insert the mounting bolts
or upper guide bolt and tighten to the
specified torque.
19 Tighten the flexible hose union on the
caliper. Check that the hose is clear of the
strut and surrounding components and, if
necessary, loosen the rigid pipe union on the
body bracket, reposition the hose and
retighten the union.
20 Refit the brake pads, as described in
Section 4.
21 Remove the brake hose clamp or
polythene sheeting and bleed the hydraulic
system, as described in Section 2.

Braking system 9•9

7.4 Brake caliper mounting bolts -

arrowed (DBA Bendix type)

7.7a DBA Bendix type brake caliper components

1 Mounting bolt
2 Caliper assembly
3 Sliding key kit
4 Bleed screw

5 Retaining plate
6 Sliding guide kit with grease
7 Repair kit with grease

7.7b Girling type brake caliper components

1 Mounting bolt
2 Caliper assembly
3 Pad retaining pin and spring
4 Bleed screw
5 Repair kit

Rear brake caliper (1.9 GTI
models) - removal, overhaul
and refitting

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, and
to the warning at the beginning of Section 6
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Removal

1 Remove the brake pads as described in
Section 6.
2 To minimise fluid loss, unscrew the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap and place a piece
of polythene over the filler neck. Secure the
polythene with an elastic band ensuring that
an airtight seal is obtained. Alternatively, use a
brake hose clamp, a G-clamp, or a similar tool
with protected jaws, to clamp the rear flexible
hydraulic hose.
3 Clean the area around the hydraulic hose-
to-caliper union, then slacken the hose union
half a turn. Be prepared for fluid spillage.
4 Unhook the handbrake cable from the lever
on the caliper, and withdraw the outer cable
(see illustration).
5 Unscrew the two mounting bolts, withdraw
the caliper from the disc, then unscrew the
caliper from the brake hose. Plug the hose to
prevent loss of fluid.

Overhaul

6 This is essentially the same procedure as
that described in Section 7 for the front
caliper.

Refitting

7 To refit the caliper, first screw it onto the
brake hose and locate it over the brake disc,
so that the hose is not twisted.
8 Clean the mounting bolt threads, and apply
a little locking fluid. Insert the bolts together
with the anti-rotation plate, and tighten them
to the specified torque.
9 Tighten the brake hose union.
10 Insert the handbrake outer cable, and
re-connect the inner cable to the lever.
11 Refit the brake pads as described in
Section 6.

12 Remove the brake hose clamp or
polythene sheeting, and bleed the hydraulic
system as described in Section 2.
13 Check and if necessary adjust the
handbrake, as described in Section 15.

Brake disc - inspection,
removal and refitting

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 4
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Inspection

Note: If a disc requires renewal, BOTH discs
on the same axle should be renewed at the
same time (ie both front or both rear) to ensure
even and consistent braking. New brake pads
should also be fitted.
1 Remove the brake pads as described in
Section 4 or 6 as applicable.
2 Inspect the disc friction surfaces for cracks
or deep scoring (light grooving is normal and
may be ignored). A cracked disc must be
renewed; a scored disc can be reclaimed by
machining provided that the thickness is not
reduced below the specified minimum.
3 Check the disc run-out using a dial test
indicator with its probe positioned near the
outer edge of the disc. If the run-out exceeds
the figures given in the Specifications,
machining may be possible, otherwise disc
renewal will be necessary.

4 Excessive disc thickness variation can also
cause judder. Check this using a micrometer.
No actual thickness variation figures are
provided by the manufacturer, but as a
general guide, 0.010 mm should be
considered a maximum.

Removal

5 On certain models, it may be necessary to
remove the brake caliper with reference to
Section 7 or 8 in order to allow sufficient
clearance to remove the disc. Note that there
is no need to disconnect the flexible hose
from the caliper. Support the caliper with wire
or string, taking care not to strain the hose.
6 To remove the disc, unscrew the two
cross-head screws (where fitted) and
withdraw the disc, tilting it as necessary to
clear the hub and caliper if the caliper is still
fitted.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make
sure that the disc-to-hub mating surfaces are

clean and that the securing screws are tight-
ened fully. If the caliper has been removed,
coat the caliper mounting bolt threads with
locking fluid on refitting. Refer to Section 4 or
6 when refitting the disc pads.

10 Rear wheel cylinder -

removal, overhaul and refitting

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid, and
to the warning at the beginning of Section 5
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove
the rear roadwheels and ensure that the
handbrake is released.
2 Remove the hub/drum, as described in
Section 11.
3 Note the location of the brake shoe upper
return spring then unhook and remove it.
4 Pull the handbrake lever on the rear shoe
fully forwards so that the upper ends of the
shoes are clear of the wheel cylinder. Wedge
the lever in this position using a block of
wood.
5 To minimise fluid loss, unscrew the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap and place a piece
of polythene over the filler neck. Secure the
polythene with an elastic band ensuring that
an airtight seal is obtained. Alternatively, use a
brake hose clamp, a G-clamp, or a similar tool
with protected jaws, to clamp the flexible
hydraulic hose supplying the rear brakes (see
illustration).
6 Unscrew the hydraulic pipe union nut from
the rear of the wheel cylinder.
7 Unscrew the two mounting bolts and
withdraw the wheel cylinder from the
backplate

(see illustration). Take care not to

spill any brake fluid on the brake shoe linings.
8 Clean the exterior of the wheel cylinder.
Note that on all models with a diagonally split
hydraulic circuit the rear wheel cylinders
incorporate compensators which must not be
dismantled.

9•10 Braking system

8.4 Handbrake cable attachment at rear

brake caliper

10.5 To minimise fluid loss, fit a brake

hose clamp to the flexible hose

If a dial test indicator is not
available, check the run-out
by positioning a fixed pointer
near the outer edge, in

contact with the disc face. Rotate the
disc and measure the maximum
displacement of the pointer with feeler
blades.

Overhaul

9 Pull off the dust excluders (see
illustration).
10 Extract the pistons, seals and return
spring; keeping each component identified for
location.
11 Check the surfaces of the cylinder bore
and pistons for scoring and corrosion and, if
evident, renew the complete wheel cylinder. If
the components are in good condition discard
the seals and obtain a repair kit which will
contain all the necessary renewable
components.
12 Clean the pistons and cylinder with
methylated spirit or clean brake fluid then dip
each component in fresh brake fluid and
reassemble in reverse order; making sure that
the lips of the seals face into the cylinder.
When completed, wipe clean the outer
surfaces of the dust excluders.

Refitting

13 Clean the backplate and refit the wheel
cylinder using a reversal of the removal
procedure. Refer to Section 11 when refitting
the hub/drum.
14 Make sure that the brake hose clamp or
polythene sheeting is removed then bleed the
hydraulic system, as described in Section 2.

11 Rear brake hub/drum -

removal, inspection and
refitting

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 5
concerning the dangers of asbestos dust.

Removal

1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the

rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove
the rear roadwheels and ensure that the
handbrake is released.
2 Tap off the grease cap, taking care not to
damage its outer lip, then relieve the staking
on the rear hub nut, using a suitable drift or
chisel. Unscrew the nut and recover the
washer (see illustrations). Should the stub
axle rotate within the trailing arm, hold it
stationary with a suitable Allen key on the
inner. Note that a new rear hub nut will be
required for refitting.
3 Withdraw the hub/drum from the stub axle.
If difficulty is experienced, due to the shoes
wearing grooves in the drum, insert a
screwdriver through one of the wheel bolt
holes and depress the handbrake lever on the
rear brake shoe so that it slides back behind
the shoe. This will retract the shoes and allow
the hub/drum to be removed.

Braking system 9•11

10.7 Rear wheel cylinder mounting bolts (arrowed)

10.9 Exploded view of a rear wheel cylinder

1 Cap
2 Bleed screw
3 Dust excluder

4 Piston
5 Seal
6 Spring seat

7 Spring
8 Body

11.2a Unscrew the rear hub nut . . .

11.2b . . . and remove the washer

Inspection

4 Brush the dust and dirt from the brake drum
and carefully inspect the drum interior.
5 If the drum is grooved, owing to failure to
renew worn brake shoes or after a very high
mileage has been covered, then it may be
possible to regrind it, provided the maximum
internal diameter is not exceeded.
6 Even if only one drum is in need of grinding
both drums must be reground to the same
size in order to maintain even braking
characteristics.
7 Judder or a springy pedal felt when the
brakes are applied can be caused by a
distorted (out-of-round) drum. Here again it
may be possible to regrind the drums,
otherwise a new drum will be required.

Refitting

8 Fit the hub/drum on the stub axle and retain
with the washer and new hub nut.
9 Tighten the nut to the specified torque then
lock it by staking the nut flange into the
groove on the stub axle (see illustration).
10 Tap the grease cap into the hub/drum.
11 Refit the roadwheels and lower the car to
the ground.

12 Master cylinder - removal,

overhaul and refitting

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

Removal

1 Unscrew the filler cap from the master
cylinder fluid reservoir and drain off the fluid.

2 Prise the reservoir from the master cylinder
and remove the seals.
3 Unscrew the union nuts securing the rigid
brake lines to the master cylinder and pull out
the lines. Cap the pipe ends to prevent loss of
fluid.
4 Unscrew the mounting nuts and withdraw
the master cylinder from the bulkhead or
servo unit, as applicable. Remove the gasket
on non-servo models.

Overhaul

5 Clean the exterior of the master cylinder. It
is not possible to overhaul the master cylinder
fitted to non-servo models, therefore if it is
known to be leaking or damaged the
complete master cylinder must be renewed.
On servo models proceed as follows.
6 Using circlip pliers, extract the circlip from
the mouth of the cylinder.
7 Remove the primary and secondary piston
components noting their locations. If
necessary tap the cylinder on a block of
wood.
8 Clean all the components in methylated
spirit. Check the surfaces of the cylinder bore
and pistons for scoring and corrosion, and if
evident renew the complete master cylinder. If
the components are in good condition remove
and discard the seals and obtain a repair kit
which will contain all the necessary renewable
components.
9 Dip the new seals in fresh brake fluid and fit
them to the pistons using the fingers only to
manipulate them.
10 Reassemble the master cylinder in
reverse order to dismantling and make sure
that the circlip is fully engaged with the
groove in the mouth of the cylinder.
11 On non-servo models check that the
brake pedal pushrod protrudes from the
bulkhead by between 9.0 and 9.6 mm. If not,
loosen the locknuts and adjust the position of
the stop light switch inside the car on the
pedal bracket.

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit a
new gasket on non-servo models. Finally
bleed the complete hydraulic system, as
described in Section 2.

13 Rear brake compensator

(GTI models) - information,
removal and refitting

Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 2
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.

1.6 GTI models

General information

1 On 1.6 GTI models the brake hydraulic
circuit is split front-to-rear, and an inertia type
compensator is incorporated in the rear brake
circuit to prevent rear wheel lock-up during
hard braking. The compensator is located in
the engine compartment on the lower
left-hand side panel (see illustration), and
incorporates a steel ball which stops fluid
entry to the rear circuit at a preset
deceleration.

Removal

2 To minimise fluid loss, unscrew the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap and place a piece
of polythene over the filler neck. Secure the
polythene with an elastic band ensuring that
an airtight seal is obtained.
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove
the relevant front roadwheel.
4 Unscrew the union nuts and disconnect the
rigid hydraulic lines from each end of the unit
while holding the unit on the flats provided.
5 Unbolt the clamp and withdraw the
compensator.

9•12 Braking system

11.9 Lock the hub nut by staking the nut flange into the groove on

the stub axle

13.1 Rear brake compensator fitted to 1.6 GTI models

An ideal way to remove fluid
from the master cylinder
reservoir is to use a clean
syringe or an old poultry baster.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but note
that the nose of the unit must face forwards
and be inclined upwards at an angle of 22° to
the horizontal. Provided that the mounting
bracket is undamaged, this angle will
automatically be achieved. Finally bleed the
rear hydraulic circuit, as described in Section 2.

1.9 GTI models

General information

7 On 1.9 GTI models, the hydraulic circuit is
split diagonally and two compensators are
fitted. Each compensator is located in the rear
circuit near the rear wheel (see illustration).
They are of fixed calibration, and not
load-sensitive.

Removal

8 To minimise fluid loss, unscrew the master
cylinder reservoir filler cap and place a piece
of polythene over the filler neck. Secure the
polythene with an elastic band ensuring that
an airtight seal is obtained.
9 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
10 Unscrew the union nuts and disconnect
the rigid hydraulic lines from each end of the
unit while holding the unit on the flats
provided. Ease out the pipes and remove the
compensator from under the car.
11 Note that from December 1988, modified
compensators have been fitted. The modified
components can be identified by the letter on
the compensator body. Early components
have the identifying letter “F”, while later
components have the identifying letter “E”.
The later components can be used to replace
the early components, but both
compensators must be of the same type.

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Bleed
the relevant hydraulic circuit, as described in
Section 2 on completion.

14 Vacuum servo unit - testing,

removal and refitting

Testing

1 With the engine switched off, depress the
brake pedal several times. The distance by
which the pedal moves should now alter over
all applications.
2 Depress the brake pedal fully and hold it
down then start the engine. The pedal should
be felt to move downward slightly.
3 Hold the pedal depressed with the engine
running, switch off the ignition and continue to
hold the pedal depressed for 30 seconds
during which period the pedal should neither
rise nor drop.

4 Start the engine whilst the brake pedal is
released, run it for a minute and switch off.
Give several applications of the brake pedal.
The pedal travel should decrease with each
application.
5 Failure of the brake pedal to act in the way
described will indicate a fault in the servo unit.
6 The servo unit should not be serviced or
overhauled beyond the operations described
in this Section and in the event of a fault
developing, renew the servo complete.
7 Periodically check the condition of the
vacuum hose and security of the clips.
8 Renew the hose if necessary.
9 If the servo hose right-angled non-return
valve is loose in its sealing grommet, or if the
grommet shows evidence of cracking or
perishing, renew it. Apply some hydraulic fluid
to the rubber to facilitate fitting.

Air filter renewal

10 Although not a specified operation, the air
filter through which the pushrod passes at the
rear of the servo can become clogged after a
high mileage. Disconnect the rod from the
pedal, cut the filter diagonally having slipped
the dust excluder off the rod. Fit the new filter.

Servo unit removal

11 Remove the master cylinder, as described
in Section 12. Disconnect the servo vacuum
hose.
12 Working inside the car, disconnect the
pushrod from the brake pedal; noting that it is
on the lower hole.
13 Unscrew the mounting nuts behind the
pedal bracket then withdraw the servo unit into
the engine compartment. Remove the gasket.

Servo unit refitting

14 Before fitting a servo unit, check the
pushrod dimensions and adjust where
possible

(see illustration).

15 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit a
new gasket and fully tighten the mounting
nuts. Note that the pushrod is fitted to the
lower hole of the two on the brake pedal. Refer
to Section 12 when refitting the master
cylinder. Finally, with the brake pedal released,
check that the clearance between the stop
light switch threaded shank and pedal is 3.5
mm. If necessary loosen the locknuts, adjust
the switch and tighten the locknuts.

Braking system 9•13

13.7 Rear brake compensator fitted to

1.9 GTI models

14.14 Cross-section of the vacuum

servo unit showing pushrod

adjustment dimensions

1 Adjustment screw
A = 22.2 to 22.4 mm
B = 86.5 to 89.5 mm

15 Handbrake - adjustment

All models except 1.9 GTI

1 The handbrake is normally kept adjusted by
the action of the automatic adjusters on the
rear brake shoes. However, in due course, the
cables will stretch and will have to be adjusted
in order to fully apply the handbrake.
2 To adjust, first place the handbrake lever
onto the seventh notch.
3 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
4 Working inside the car, remove the screw
and lift the cover from the handbrake lever
(see illustration).
5 Slacken the locknut and turn the
adjustment nut on the rear of the cable
compensator so that both rear wheels are just
binding on the brake shoes (see illustration).
6 Fully apply the handbrake lever and check
that both rear wheels are locked.
7 Tighten the adjuster locknut, fit the cover
over the handbrake lever and lower the car to
the ground.

8 Over-adjustment will prevent the automatic
adjusters operating correctly so make sure
that the handbrake is fully applied after being
pulled up between 7 and 9 notches, no fewer.

1.9 GTI models

9 Chock the wheels and fully release the
handbrake.
10 Apply the brake pedal hard several times.
11 Working inside the car, remove the screw
and lift the cover from the handbrake lever.
12 Working beneath the rear of the car,
measure the distance between the operating
levers on the calipers and the end stops on
the inner cables (see illustration).
13 Inside the car, loosen the nut on the
handbrake lever until the distance measured
in the previous paragraph is 5.0 mm on both
sides.
14 Check that the operating levers on both
calipers move freely and return positively to
their stops.
15 Now tighten the nut on the handbrake
lever so that the handbrake is fully applied
between 7 and 9 notches. Do not over-adjust
so that the handbrake is fully applied over
fewer notches, otherwise the automatic
adjusters will not operate correctly.
16 Refit the cover over the handbrake lever.

16 Handbrake cables - renewal

All models except 1.9 GTI

1 Remove the rear brake shoes, as described
in Section 5.
2 Working inside the car, remove the screw
and lift the cover from the handbrake lever.
3 Unhook the cable(s) from the compensator.
4 Release the cable(s) from the retaining
clips, the floor, the fuel tank, and the rear
brake backplate(s) and withdraw from under
the car (see illustration).
5 Fit the new cable(s) using a reversal of the
removal procedure with reference also to
Section 5. Finally adjust the handbrake as
described in Section 15.

1.9 GTI models

6 Working inside the car, remove the screw
and lift the cover from the handbrake lever.
7 Unhook the cable from the compensator.
8 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
9 Release the cable(s) from the retaining
clips, the floor, the fuel tank, the bracket(s),
and the caliper lever(s), and withdraw from
under the car.
10 Fit the new cable(s) using a reversal of the
removal procedure. Finally adjust the
handbrake as described in Section 15.

17 Brake pedal - removal and

refitting

Removal

1 Remove the lower facia panel from the
steering column in order to gain access to the
pedal bracket.

9•14 Braking system

15.4 Remove the screw and lift the cover

from the handbrake lever

15.5 Handbrake adjustment nut and

locknut (arrowed)

15.12 Handbrake adjustment on 1.9 GTI models

1 Handbrake operating lever on caliper
a = 5.0 mm

16.4 Handbrake cable clip and bracket located on rear

suspension arm

2 Remove the clevis pin and disconnect the
pushrod from the brake pedal. Note that on
models with a vacuum servo unit the pushrod
is on the lower hole, whereas the upper hole is
used for models without a servo unit.
3 Unscrew the self-locking nut from the pivot
bolt, pull out the bolt and lower the brake
pedal. Note that on non-servo models a return
spring is also fitted to the pedal.
4 Examine the pedal bushes for wear and
renew them if necessary.

Refitting

5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but lightly
grease the bushes and clevis pin and renew
the self-locking nut.

18 Handbrake lever - removal

and refitting

Removal

1 Move the front seats fully forward then
remove the screw and lift the cover from the
handbrake lever.
2 Fully release the handbrake then unscrew
the adjustment nut on the rear of the cable
compensator until both cables can be
unhooked.
3 Unbolt and remove the handbrake lever
assembly from the floor (see illustration).

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but adjust
the handbrake, as described in Section 15 on
completion.

19 Anti-lock braking system

(ABS) - general information

From 1991, the Bendix anti-lock braking

system is available as an option on certain
models.

The system is fail-safe, and is fitted in

conjunction with the conventional braking
system, which allows the vehicle to retain
conventional braking In the event of a failure
in the ABS system.

To prevent wheel locking, the system

provides pressure modulation in the brake
circuits. To achieve this, sensors mounted at
each front wheel monitor the rotational
speeds of the wheels, and are thus able to
detect when there is a risk of wheel locking
(low rotational speed). Solenoid valves are
positioned in the brake circuits to all four
wheels and the solenoid valves are
incorporated in the regulator unit, which is
controlled by an electronic control unit. The
electronic control unit controls modulation of
the braking effort applied to each wheel,
according to the information supplied by the
wheel sensors.

Should a fault develop in the system, a

self-diagnostic facility is incorporated in the
electronic control unit, which can be used in
conjunction with specialist diagnostic
equipment available to a Peugeot dealer to
determine the nature of the fault.

The brake components used on models

fitted with ABS are similar to those used on
models with a conventional braking system.
Rear disc brakes are fitted to all
ABS-equipped models, and all procedures for
the rear brake and handbrake components
are as described for 1.9 GTI models in the
relevant Sections of this Chapter.

20 Anti-lock braking system

(ABS) components - removal
and refitting

Warning: It is strongly
recommended that any work
involving components of the
braking system on a vehicle

equipped with ABS is entrusted to a

Peugeot dealer, who will have the
necessary specialist knowledge and
equipment to carry out the work safely and
effectively.

Regulator unit

1 At the time of writing, no information was
available regarding removal and refitting of
the regulator unit.

Wheel sensor

Removal

2 The wheel sensors are mounted in the rear
of the hub carriers. To remove a wheel sensor,
proceed as follows.
3 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
4 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove
the roadwheel.
5 Carefully pull the sensor wiring from its
retaining clips, and working under the wing,
disconnect the sensor wiring connector.
6 Unscrew the securing bolt, and withdraw
the sensor from the hub carrier.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the front face of the sensor is perfectly
clean, and ensure that the wiring is correctly
routed. Clean the sensor securing bolt
threads, then apply suitable thread-locking
fluid and tighten the bolt securely.

Electronic control unit

Removal

8 The electronic control unit is located on the
left-hand side of the luggage compartment.
To remove the control unit, proceed as
follows.
9 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
10 Open the tailgate, and carefully pull the
trim from the left-hand side of the luggage
compartment to reveal the control unit.
11 Unscrew the securing nuts, and withdraw
the cover from the control unit.
12 Disconnect the control unit wiring plug.
13 Unscrew the securing nuts, and withdraw
the control unit from its mounting bracket.

Refitting

14 Refitting is reversal of removal.

Braking system 9•15

18.3 Handbrake lever mounting bolts

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