Peugeot 205 (954 cc, 1124 cc, 1360 cc, 1580 cc & 1905 cc). Manual - part 17

Crankcase ventilation system

7 This system is fitted to all models, and
prevents the gases produced in the crankcase
from being released into the atmosphere, at
the same time preventing a build-up of
pressure in the crankcase (see illustration).
8 Crankcase gases are drawn into the air inlet
tract, where they are mixed with clean air. The
gases are then burnt with the fuel/air mixture
in the engine, and expelled through the
exhaust.

Electro-pneumatic ignition timing
retarding system

9 This system is used on models fitted with
the Mono-Jetronic A2.2 fuel injection system,
and reduces the nitrous oxide (NOx) content

in the exhaust gases (see illustration). This is
achieved by reducing the temperature at the
end of the combustion by reducing the
ignition advance at certain engine
temperatures.
10 The engine temperature is measured by a
coolant temperature sensor, and this
information is transmitted to the electronic
control unit, which controls the solenoid valve.
Under certain engine temperature conditions,
the solenoid valve cuts off the vacuum to the
distributor vacuum capsule, therefore
reducing the ignition advance.

Catalytic converter

11 Catalytic converters have been
introduced progressively on all models in the

range, to meet emissions regulations.
12 The catalytic converter is located in the
exhaust system, and operates in conjunction
with an exhaust gas oxygen sensor to reduce
exhaust gas emissions. The catalytic
converter effectively cleans the exhaust gases
by speeding up their decomposition.
13 In order for a catalytic converter to
operate effectively, the air/fuel mixture must
be very accurately controlled, and this is
achieved by measuring the oxygen content of
the exhaust gas. The oxygen sensor transmits
information on the exhaust gas oxygen
content to the electronic control unit, which
adjusts the air/fuel mixture strength
accordingly.

4D•2 Exhaust and emission control systems

1.7  Typical crankcase ventilation system

1 Oil filler cap with oil trap
2 Air filter
3 Throttle valve
4 Inlet manifold
5 Jet
6 Ventilation hose
7 Calibrated jet
8 Sump
9 Camshaft cover

Fuel vapour recirculation system

14 This system has been introduced
progressively on all fuel injection models, and
prevents fuel vapour from the fuel tank from
being ejected into the atmosphere (see
illustration).
15 The fuel filler cap is sealed, and the fuel
vapours from the tank pass into a carbon
canister, via a calibrated orifice and a pipe.
The fuel vapour is absorbed by the carbon
filling in the canister.
16 When the engine is running, it draws a
proportion of its inlet air through the carbon
canister, and this air picks up the fuel vapour
contained in the carbon canister.
17 A solenoid valve mounted in the pipe
between the canister and the inlet manifold
prevents the system from operating when the
engine is cold. The solenoid valve is
controlled by the electronic control unit, on
the basis of information received from the
coolant temperature sensor.

2

Exhaust system - removal
and refitting

2

Removal

1 Details of exhaust system routing and
mounting will vary with model and year, but
the principles of removal and refitting remain
the same (see illustration).

Exhaust and emission control systems  4D•3

4D

1.9  Electro-pneumatic ignition timing

retarding system

1 Coolant temperature sensor
2 Electronic control unit
3 Solenoid valve
4 Distributor vacuum capsule

1.14  Fuel vapour recirculation system

1 Fuel filler cap
2 Charcoal canister

3 Hose
4 Calibrated orifice

5 Hose
6 Solenoid valve

7 Coolant temperature sensor
10 Safety valve

2 In many cases it will be found easier to
remove the complete system from the car and
then to renew individual sections on the bench.
3 To remove the complete system, raise and
support the vehicle at a convenient working
height (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
Apply penetrating oil to the nuts, bolts and
clamps which will have to be undone.
4 Where applicable, disconnect the oxygen
sensor wiring plug is disconnected before
removing the downpipe.
5 Unbolt the flanged joint at the union of the
exhaust system with the downpipe or at the
manifold connection. According to model,
unbolt the additional support brackets at the
transmission.
6 With the aid of an assistant, unhook the
system from its mountings and remove it.
7 With the system removed, undo the
retaining clamp bolts and separate the various
sections as required.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting the
following points:

a) Ensure that all traces of corrosion have

been removed from the flanges and
renew all necessary gaskets.

b) Inspect the rubber mountings for signs of

damage or deterioration, and renew as
necessary.

c) When tightening a spring loaded flange

joint, tighten the flange mounting nuts
evenly so that the special springs are
compressed equally; approximately four
threads of the bolt should be visible and
the springs should be compressed to
approximately 22.0 mm.

d) Prior to tightening the exhaust system

fasteners, ensure that all rubber
mountings are correctly located, and that
there is adequate clearance between the
exhaust system and vehicle underbody.

3

Exhaust manifold - removal
and refitting

3

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Where applicable, disconnect the hot-air
inlet hose from the manifold shroud and
remove it from the vehicle. Slacken and
remove the three retaining screws, and
remove the shroud from the top of the
exhaust manifold
3 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
4 Undo the nuts/bolts securing the front
downpipe to the manifold then, according to
model, remove the bolt securing the pipe to
its mounting bracket. Disconnect the
downpipe from the manifold.
5 Undo the retaining nuts securing the
manifold to the cylinder head (see illustration).

Manoeuvre the manifold from the engine and
discard the manifold gaskets.

Refitting

6 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points:

a) Examine all the exhaust manifold studs for

signs of damage and corrosion; remove
all traces of corrosion, and repair or
renew any damaged studs.

b) Ensure that the manifold and cylinder

head sealing faces are clean and flat, and
fit the new manifold gaskets.

c) Reconnect the downpipe to the manifold

using the information given in Section 2.

4D•4 Exhaust and emission control systems

3.5  Exhaust manifold upper retaining nuts

(arrowed)

2.1 Typical exhaust system layout

4

Air inlet heating system
components - removal and
refitting

2

Note: The components of the system vary
slightly according to engine type. The
following procedures depict one of the more
common systems, but all are similar.

Vacuum switch

Removal

1 Remove the air cleaner housing-to-
carburettor inlet duct.
2 Bend up the tangs on the switch retaining
clip, then remove the clip, along with its seal,
and withdraw the switch from inside the duct.
Examine the seal for signs of damage or
deterioration, and renew if necessary.

Refitting

3 On refitting, ensure that the switch and duct
mating surfaces are clean and dry, and
position the switch inside the duct.
4 Fit the seal over the switch unions, and refit
the retaining clip. Ensure that the switch is
pressed firmly against the duct, and secure it
in position by bending down the retaining clip
tangs. Refit the duct.

Air temperature control valve

Removal

5 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the air
temperature control valve, then slacken the
retaining clips securing the inlet ducts to the
valve.
6 Disconnect both inlet ducts and the hot-air
inlet hose from the control valve assembly,
and remove it from the vehicle.

Refitting

7 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting that the air temperature
control valve assembly can only be renewed
as a complete unit.

5

Crankcase ventilation
system components -
removal and refitting

2

The crankcase ventilation system consists

simply of a number of ventilation hoses, and a

wire mesh filter in the engine oil filler cap on
certain models. Removal and refitting is self-
explanatory, but it may be necessary to
detach surrounding components for improved
access. Refer to the various Chapters of this
manual as necessary if problems are
encountered.

6

Electro-pneumatic ignition
retarding system components
- removal and refitting

2

Solenoid valve

Removal

1 The valve is located on a bracket at the rear
of the engine compartment. To remove the
valve, proceed as follows.
2 Disconnect the battery negative lead, then
disconnect the wiring plug from the valve (see
illustration).
3 Note the orientation of the valve, then
disconnect the hoses from the valve, and pull
the valve from its bracket.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the valve is correctly orientated, as noted
before removal.

Coolant temperature sensor

Removal

5 The sensor is located in the left-hand end of
the cylinder head, below the engine coolant
temperature sensor for the fuel injection
system.
6 To remove the sensor, partially drain the
cooling system (see Chapter 1), then
disconnect the wiring, and unscrew and
remove the sensor.

Refitting

7 When refitting the sensor, ensure that the
seal is in good condition, and take care not to
overtighten the switch. Refill the cooling
system on completion as described in
Chapter 1 and “Weekly checks”.

7

Catalytic converter - general
information and precautions

The catalytic converter is a reliable and

simple device, which needs no maintenance
in itself, but there are some facts of which an
owner should be aware if the converter is to
function properly for its full service life.

a) DO NOT use leaded petrol in a vehicle

equipped with a catalytic converter - the
lead will coat the precious metals,
reducing their converting efficiency, and
will eventually destroy the converter.

b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systems

well-maintained in accordance with the
manufacturer’s schedule (see Chapter 1).

c) If the engine develops a misfire, do not

drive the vehicle at all (or at least as little
as possible) until the fault is cured.

d) DO NOT push - or tow-start the vehicle -

this will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel, causing it to overheat
when the engine does start.

e) DO NOT switch off the ignition at high

engine speeds, ie do not “blip” the
throttle immediately before switching off.

f) DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives -

these may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.

g) DO NOT continue to use the vehicle if the

engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke.

h) Remember that the catalytic converter

operates at very high temperatures. DO
NOT, therefore, park the vehicle in dry
undergrowth, over long grass or piles of
dead leaves, after a long run.

I) Remember that the catalytic converter is

FRAGILE. Do not strike it with tools
during servicing work.

j) In some cases, a sulphurous smell (like

that of rotten eggs) may be noticed from
the exhaust. This is common to many
catalytic converter-equipped vehicles.
Once the vehicle has covered a few
thousand miles, the problem should
disappear - in the meantime, try changing
the brand of petrol used.

k) The catalytic converter used on a well-

maintained and well-driven vehicle should
last for between 50 000 and 100 000
miles. If the converter is no longer
effective, it must be renewed.

8

Fuel vapour recirculation
system components -
removal and refitting

2

Carbon canister

Removal

1 The carbon canister is located at the rear
left-hand corner of the engine compartment
(see illustration).
2 To remove the canister, first disconnect the
hoses, noting their locations to ensure correct
refitting.

Exhaust and emission control systems  4D•5

4D

6.2  Disconnecting wiring plug from

ignition retarding system solenoid valve

8.1 Fuel vapour recirculation system

carbon canister (A) and solenoid valve (B)

3 Unscrew the clamp bolt, and lift the
canister from its clamp on the body panel.

Refitting

4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the hoses are correctly reconnected, as
noted before removal.

Solenoid valve

Removal

5 The solenoid valve is mounted on a bracket
next to the carbon canister, at the rear
left-hand corner of the engine compartment.
6 To remove the valve, first disconnect the
battery negative lead.
7 Unbolt the bracket from the body panel,
then disconnect the wiring plug (see
illustrations).

8 Disconnect the hoses from the valve, noting
their locations to ensure correct refitting, then
withdraw the valve.

Refitting

9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the hoses are correctly reconnected, as
noted before removal.

4D•6 Exhaust and emission control systems

8.7a  Unscrew the securing nut . . .

8.7b . . . and withdraw the solenoid bracket

5A

Chapter 5  Part A:
Starting and charging systems

System type

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12-volt, negative earth

Battery

Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Low maintenance or “maintenance-free” sealed for life

Capacity  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25 to 33 Ah (depending on model)

Charge condition:

Poor  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12.5 volts

Normal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12.6 volts

Good  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12.7 volts

Alternator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Alternator - testing and overhaul  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Battery - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Battery - testing and charging  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Battery, bulbs and fuses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly checks”
Charging system - testing  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Electrical fault finding - general information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Electronic oil level sensor - general information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
General information and precautions  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Ignition switch - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Oil pressure warning light switch - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . 12
Starter motor - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Starter motor - testing and overhaul  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Starting system - testing  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

5A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1

1

General information and
precautions

General information

The engine electrical system consists

mainly of the charging and starting systems.
Because of their engine-related functions,
these components are covered separately
from the body electrical devices such as the
lights, instruments, etc (which are covered in
Chapter 12). Information on the ignition
system is covered in Part B of this Chapter.

The electrical system is of the 12-volt

negative earth type.

The battery is of the low maintenance or

“maintenance-free” (sealed for life) type and is
charged by the alternator, which is belt-driven
from the crankshaft pulley.

The starter motor is of the pre-engaged

type incorporating an integral solenoid. On
starting, the solenoid moves the drive pinion
into engagement with the flywheel ring gear

before the starter motor is energised. Once
the engine has started, a one-way clutch
prevents the motor armature being driven by
the engine until the pinion disengages from
the flywheel.

Precautions

Further details of the various systems are

given in the relevant Sections of this Chapter.
While some repair procedures are given, the
usual course of action is to renew the
component concerned. The owner whose
interest extends beyond mere component
renewal should obtain a copy of the
“Automobile Electrical & Electronic Systems
Manual”, available from the publishers of this
manual.

It is necessary to take extra care when

working on the electrical system to avoid
damage to semi-conductor devices (diodes
and transistors), and to avoid the risk of
personal injury. In addition to the precautions
given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of this
manual, observe the following when working
on the system:

Always remove rings, watches, etc before

working on the electrical system. Even with
the battery disconnected, capacitive
discharge could occur if a component’s live
terminal is earthed through a metal object.
This could cause a shock or nasty burn.

Do not reverse the battery connections.

Components such as the alternator, electronic
control units, or any other components having
semi-conductor circuitry could be irreparably
damaged.

If the engine is being started using jump

leads and a slave battery, connect the
batteries positive-to-positive and negative-to-
negative

(see  “Booster battery (jump)

starting”). This also applies when connecting
a battery charger.

Never disconnect the battery terminals, the

alternator, any electrical wiring or any test
instruments when the engine is running.

Do not allow the engine to turn the

alternator when the alternator is not
connected.

Never “test” for alternator output by

“flashing” the output lead to earth.

Never use an ohmmeter of the type

incorporating a hand-cranked generator for
circuit or continuity testing.

Always ensure that the battery negative

lead is disconnected when working on the
electrical system.

Before using electric-arc welding

equipment on the car, disconnect the battery,
alternator and components such as the fuel
injection/ignition electronic control unit to
protect them from the risk of damage.

The radio/cassette units fitted as standard

or optional equipment may be equipped with a
built-in security code to deter thieves. If the
power source to the unit is cut, the anti-theft
system will activate. Even if the power source
is immediately reconnected, the radio/cassette
unit will not function until the correct security
code has been entered. Therefore, if you do
not know the correct security code for the
radio/cassette unit do not disconnect the
negative terminal of the battery or remove the
radio/cassette unit from the car. Refer to the
Owner’s Manual, or your Peugeot dealer for
further information on security codes.

2

Electrical fault finding -
general information

Refer to Chapter 12.

3

Battery - testing and charging

1

Standard and low maintenance
battery - testing

1 If the vehicle covers a small annual mileage,
it is worthwhile checking the specific gravity
of the electrolyte every three months to
determine the state of charge of the battery.
Use a hydrometer to make the check and
compare the results with the following table.

Above

Below

25°C (77°F)

25°C (77°F)

Fully-charged 1.210 to 1.230 1.270 to 1.290
70% charged 1.170 to 1.190 1.230 to 1.250
Discharged

1.050 to 1.070 1.110 to 1.130

Note that the specific gravity readings assume
an electrolyte temperature of 15°C (60°F); for
every 10°C (50°F) below 15°C (60°F) subtract
0.007. For every 10°C (50°F) above 15°C
(60°F) add 0.007.
2 If the battery condition is suspect, first
check the specific gravity of electrolyte in
each cell. A variation of 0.040 or more
between any cells indicates loss of electrolyte
or deterioration of the internal plates.
3 If the specific gravity variation is 0.040 or
more, the battery should be renewed. If the
cell variation is satisfactory but the battery is
discharged, it should be charged as
described later in this Section.

Maintenance-free battery -
testing

4 In cases where a “sealed for life”
maintenance-free battery is fitted, topping-up
and testing of the electrolyte in each cell is not
possible. The condition of the battery can
therefore only be tested using a battery
condition indicator or a voltmeter.
5 If testing the battery using a voltmeter,
connect the voltmeter across the battery and
compare the result with those given in the
Specifications under “charge condition”. The
test is only accurate if the battery has not
been subjected to any kind of charge for the
previous six hours. If this is not the case,
switch on the headlights for 30 seconds, then
wait four to five minutes before testing the
battery after switching off the headlights. All
other electrical circuits must be switched off,
so check that the doors and tailgate are fully
shut when making the test.
6 If the voltage reading is less than 12.2 volts,
then the battery is discharged, whilst a
reading of 12.2 to 12.4 volts indicates a
partially discharged condition.
7 If the battery is to be charged, remove it
from the vehicle (Section 4) and charge it as
described later in this Section.

Standard and low maintenance
battery - charging

Note: The following is intended as a guide
only. Always refer to the manufacturer’s
recommendations (often printed on a label
attached to the battery) before charging a
battery.
8 Charge the battery at a rate of 3.5 to 4
amps and continue to charge the battery at
this rate until no further rise in specific gravity
is noted over a four hour period.
9 Alternatively, a trickle charger charging at
the rate of 1.5 amps can safely be used
overnight.
10 Specially rapid “boost” charges which are
claimed to restore the power of the battery in 1
to 2 hours are not recommended, as they can
cause serious damage to the battery plates
through overheating.
11 While charging the battery, note that the
temperature of the electrolyte should never
exceed 37.8°C (100°F).

Maintenance-free battery -
charging

Note: The following is intended as a guide
only. Always refer to the manufacturer’s
recommendations (often printed on a label
attached to the battery) before charging a
battery.
12 This battery type takes considerably
longer to fully recharge than the standard
type, the time taken being dependent on the
extent of discharge, but it can take anything
up to three days.
13 A constant voltage type charger is
required, to be set, when connected, to 13.9
to 14.9 volts with a charger current below 25
amps. Using this method, the battery should

be usable within three hours, giving a voltage
reading of 12.5 volts, but this is for a partially
discharged battery and, as mentioned, full
charging can take considerably longer.
14 If the battery is to be charged from a fully
discharged state (condition reading less than
12.2 volts), have it recharged by your Peugeot
dealer or local automotive electrician, as the
charge rate is higher and constant supervision
during charging is necessary.

4

Battery - removal and refitting

1

Note: Make sure that you have a copy of the
radio/cassette unit security code number
(where applicable) before disconnecting the
battery.

Removal

1 The battery is located in the front left-hand
corner of the engine compartment.
2 Slacken the clamp bolts and disconnect the
clamp from the battery negative (earth)
terminal.
3 Remove the insulation cover (where fitted)
and disconnect the positive terminal lead(s) in
the same way.
4 Release the battery clamp and lift the battery
carefully from the engine compartment.
5 If required, the battery tray can be removed
after undoing the retaining bolts.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but smear
petroleum jelly on the terminals when
reconnecting the leads, and always reconnect
the positive lead first, and the negative lead last.

5

Charging system - testing

1

Note: Refer to the warnings given in “Safety
first!” and in Section 1 of this Chapter before
starting work.
1 If the ignition warning light fails to illuminate
when the ignition is switched on, first check
the alternator wiring connections for security.
If satisfactory, check that the warning light
bulb has not blown, and that the bulbholder is
secure in its location in the instrument panel.
If the light still fails to illuminate, check the
continuity of the warning light feed wire from
the alternator to the bulbholder. If all is
satisfactory, the alternator is at fault and
should be renewed or taken to an auto-
electrician for testing and repair.
2 If the ignition warning light illuminates when
the engine is running, stop the engine and
check that the drivebelt is correctly tensioned
(see Chapter 1) and that the alternator
connections are secure. If all is so far
satisfactory, have the alternator checked by
an auto-electrician for testing and repair.

5A•2 Starting and charging systems

3 If the alternator output is suspect even
though the warning light functions correctly,
the regulated voltage may be checked as
follows.
4 Connect a voltmeter across the battery
terminals and start the engine.
5 Increase the engine speed until the
voltmeter reading remains steady; the reading
should be approximately 12 to 13 volts, and
no more than 14 volts.
6 Switch on as many electrical accessories
(eg, the headlights, heated rear window and
heater blower) as possible, and check that the
alternator maintains the regulated voltage at
around 13 to 14 volts.
7 If the regulated voltage is not as stated, the
fault may be due to worn brushes, weak brush
springs, a faulty voltage regulator, a faulty
diode, a severed phase winding or worn or
damaged slip rings. The alternator should be
renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for
testing and repair.

6

Alternator - removal and
refitting

2

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1.
3 Where necessary, refer to Chapter 4 and
move the relevant air cleaner components to
one side for increased access. 
4 Disconnect the wiring from the alternator
(see illustration).
5 Unscrew the pivot and adjustment bolts
and lift the alternator from the engine. On
certain models note that the alternator front
bracket is slotted to allow the pivot bolt to
remain in the bracket on the engine. 

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but tension
the drivebelt, as described in Chapter 1.

7

Alternator - testing and
overhaul

5

If the alternator is thought to be suspect, it

should be removed from the vehicle and taken
to an auto-electrician for testing. Most auto-
electricians will be able to supply and fit
brushes at a reasonable cost. However, check
on the cost of repairs before proceeding as it
may prove more economical to obtain a new
or exchange alternator.

8

Starting system - testing

1

Note: Refer to the precautions given in
“Safety first!” and in Section 1 of this Chapter
before starting work.
1 If the starter motor fails to operate when the
ignition key is turned to the appropriate
position, the following possible causes may
be to blame.

a) The battery is faulty.
b) The electrical connections between the

switch, solenoid, battery and starter
motor are somewhere failing to pass the
necessary current from the battery
through the starter to earth.

c) The solenoid is faulty.
d) The starter motor is mechanically or

electrically defective.

2 To check the battery, switch on the
headlights. If they dim after a few seconds,
this indicates that the battery is discharged -
recharge (see Section 3) or renew the battery.
If the headlights glow brightly, operate the
ignition switch and observe the lights. If they
dim, then this indicates that current is
reaching the starter motor, therefore the fault
must lie in the starter motor. If the lights
continue to glow brightly (and no clicking
sound can be heard from the starter motor
solenoid), this indicates that there is a fault in
the circuit or solenoid - see following
paragraphs. If the starter motor turns slowly
when operated, but the battery is in good
condition, then this indicates that either the
starter motor is faulty, or there is considerable
resistance somewhere in the circuit.
3 If a fault in the circuit is suspected,
disconnect the battery leads (including the
earth connection to the body), the
starter/solenoid wiring and the
engine/transmission earth strap. Thoroughly
clean the connections, and reconnect the
leads and wiring, then use a voltmeter or test
lamp to check that full battery voltage is
available at the battery positive lead
connection to the solenoid, and that the earth
is sound. Smear petroleum jelly around the
battery terminals to prevent corrosion -
corroded connections are amongst the most
frequent causes of electrical system faults.
4 If the battery and all connections are in

good condition, check the circuit by
disconnecting the wire from the solenoid
blade terminal. Connect a voltmeter or test
lamp between the wire end and a good earth
(such as the battery negative terminal), and
check that the wire is live when the ignition
switch is turned to the “start” position. If it is,
then the circuit is sound - if not the circuit
wiring can be checked as described in
Chapter 12.
5 The solenoid contacts can be checked by
connecting a voltmeter or test lamp between
the battery positive feed connection on the
starter side of the solenoid, and earth. When
the ignition switch is turned to the “start”
position, there should be a reading or lighted
bulb, as applicable. If there is no reading or
lighted bulb, the solenoid is faulty and should
be renewed.
6 If the circuit and solenoid are proved
sound, the fault must lie in the starter motor.
In this event, it may be possible to have the
starter motor overhauled by a specialist, but
check on the cost of spares before
proceeding, as it may prove more economical
to obtain a new or exchange motor.

9

Starter motor - removal and
refitting

2

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Where necessary, refer to Chapter 4 and
move the relevant air cleaner components to
one side for increased access. 
3 On GTI models, remove the inlet manifold,
with reference to the relevant Part of Chap-
ter 4.
4 Disconnect the wiring from the solenoid
(see illustration).
5 Unscrew the bolts securing the brush end
bracket to the engine (see illustration).
6 Unscrew the mounting bolts at the flywheel
end (see illustration).
7 Withdraw the starter motor from the engine.

Starting and charging systems  5A•3

5A

6.4  Alternator wiring connections

9.4  Starter motor solenoid wiring