Peugeot 205 (954 cc, 1124 cc, 1360 cc, 1580 cc & 1905 cc). Manual - part 5

9 Check that the clutch action is smooth and
progressive, that the drive is taken up
smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not
excessive. Also listen for any noises when the
clutch pedal is depressed.
10 Check that all gears can be engaged
smoothly, without noise, and that the gear
lever action is not abnormally vague or
“notchy”.
11 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from
the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven
slowly in a circle with the steering on full lock.
Carry out this check in both directions. If a
clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a

driveshaft joint, in which case, the complete
driveshaft must be renewed (see Chapter 8).

Check the operation and
performance of the braking
system

12 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to
one side when braking, and that the wheels
do not lock prematurely when braking hard.
13 Check that there is no vibration through
the steering when braking.
14 Check that the handbrake operates
correctly, without excessive movement of the
lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary
on a slope.

15 Test the operation of the brake servo unit
as follows. With the engine off, depress the
footbrake four or five times to exhaust the
vacuum. Start the engine, holding the brake
pedal depressed. As the engine starts, there
should be a noticeable “give” in the brake
pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine
to run for at least two minutes, and then
switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed
now, it should be possible to detect a hiss
from the servo as the pedal is depressed.
After about four or five applications, no further
hissing should be heard, and the pedal should
feel considerably firmer.

31 Timing belt renewal

Refer to Chapter 2B or 2C.

1•20

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

Every 36 000 miles or 3 years

32 Fuel filter renewal - fuel

injection models

Warning: Before carrying out the
following operation, refer to the
precautions given in “Safety
first!” at the beginning of this

manual, and follow them implicitly. Petrol
is a highly-dangerous and volatile liquid,
and the precautions necessary when
handling it cannot be overstressed.
1 The fuel filter is situated on the engine
compartment bulkhead. Before disconnecting
any of the hoses from the filter it will be

necessary to depressurise the fuel system
(see Chapter 4B or 4C).
2 To renew the fuel filter first disconnect the
fuel hose, or unscrew the union bolt from the
top of the unit then place the bolt, union and
washers to one side and cover to prevent
ingress of dirt (see illustration). Unscrew the
clamp bolt, then lift the filter and unscrew the
bottom union. Dispose safely of the old filter;
it will be highly inflammable, and may explode
if thrown on a fire.
3 Fit the new filter using a reversal of the
removal procedure; making sure that dust and
dirt is prevented from entering the fuel lines.
Start the engine and check the filter hose
union connections for leaks.

33 Coolant renewal

Cooling system draining

Warning: Wait until the engine is
cold before starting this
procedure. Do not allow
antifreeze to come in contact

with your skin, or with the painted surfaces
of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately
with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze
lying around in an open container, or in a
puddle in the driveway or on the garage
floor. Children and pets are attracted by its

sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal if
ingested.
1 With the engine completely cold, remove
the expansion tank filler cap. Turn the cap
anti-clockwise until it reaches the first stop.
Wait until any pressure remaining in the
system is released, then push the cap down,
turn it anti-clockwise to the second stop, and
lift it off.
2 Where fitted, unscrew the radiator filler cap
from the top left-hand side of the radiator.
3 Position a suitable container beneath the
coolant drain outlet at the lower left-hand side
of the radiator.
4 Unscrew the drain plug and allow the
coolant to drain into the container.

5 To assist draining, open the cooling system
bleed screws. These are located in the heater
matrix outlet hose union (to improve access, it
may be located in an extension hose) on the
engine compartment bulkhead, in the inlet
manifold coolant hose (XV, XW and XU series
engines) and on the top of the thermostat
housing (TU series engines) (see
illustrations).
6 When the flow of coolant stops, reposition
the container below the cylinder block drain
plug. On all engines except TU series, the
drain plug is located above the right-hand
driveshaft, or driveshaft intermediate bearing.
On TU series engines, the drain plug is
located at the front left-hand side of the
cylinder block.

Every 48 000 miles or 4 years

32.2 Fuel filter fuel hose and retaining

clamp locations

Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)

7 Remove the drain plug, and allow the
coolant to drain into the container.
8 If the coolant has been drained for a reason
other than renewal, then provided it is clean
and less than two years old, it can be re-used,
though this is not recommended.
9 Refit the radiator and cylinder block drain
plugs on completion of draining.

Cooling system flushing

10 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or
if the antifreeze mixture has become diluted,
then in time, the cooling system may gradually
lose efficiency, as the coolant passages
become restricted due to rust, scale deposits,
and other sediment. The cooling system
efficiency can be restored by flushing the
system clean.
11 The radiator should be flushed
independently of the engine, to avoid
unnecessary contamination.

Radiator flushing

12 To flush the radiator, first tighten the
radiator drain plug.
13 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses and
any other relevant hoses from the radiator,
with reference to Chapter 3.
14 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top

inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the
radiator, and continue flushing until clean
water emerges from the radiator bottom
outlet.
15 If after a reasonable period, the water still
does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed
with a good proprietary cleaning agent. It is
important that their manufacturer’s
instructions are followed carefully. If the
contamination is particularly bad, insert the
hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and
reverse-flush the radiator.

Engine flushing

16 To flush the engine, first refit the cylinder
block drain plug, and tighten the cooling
system bleed screws.
17 Remove the thermostat as described in
Chapter 3, then temporarily refit the
thermostat cover.
18 With the top and bottom hoses
disconnected from the radiator, insert a
garden hose into the radiator top hose. Direct
a clean flow of water through the engine, and
continue flushing until clean water emerges
from the radiator bottom hose.
19 On completion of flushing, refit the
thermostat and reconnect the hoses with
reference to Chapter 3.

Cooling system filling

20 Before attempting to fill the cooling
system, make sure that all hoses and clips are
in good condition, and that the clips are tight.
Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used
all year round, to prevent corrosion of the
engine components (see following sub-
Section). Also check that the radiator and
cylinder block drain plugs are in place and
tight.
21 Remove the expansion tank filler cap.
22 Open all the cooling system bleed screws
(see paragraph 4).
23 Some of the cooling system hoses are
positioned at a higher level than the top of the
radiator expansion tank. It is therefore
necessary to use a “header tank” when
refilling the cooling system, to reduce the
possibility of air being trapped in the system.
Although Peugeot dealers use a special
header tank, the same effect can be achieved
by using a suitable bottle, with a seal between
the bottle and the expansion tank. On some
engines, the expansion bottle/tank can be
simply released from its normal location,
raised as high as possible and tied to the
bonnet to form the “header” tank.
24 Fit the “header tank” to the expansion
tank and slowly fill the system. Where the
radiator incorporates a filler cap, fill the
radiator first until it is overflowing, and refit the
filler cap (see illustration). Now, on all
models, slowly fill the “header” tank. Coolant
will emerge from each of the bleed screws in
turn, starting with the lowest screw. As soon
as coolant free from air bubbles emerges from
the lowest screw, tighten that screw, and
watch the next bleed screw in the system.
Repeat the procedure until the coolant is
emerging from the highest bleed screw in the
cooling system and all bleed screws are
securely tightened.
25 If a separate bottle is being used as the
“header tank”, ensure it is full (at least 0.5
litres of coolant). If the vehicle expansion
bottle/tank is being used as the “header” tank,
ensure it is filled to the “MAX” markings (see
illustration). Start the engine, and run it at a
fast idle speed (do not exceed 2000 rpm) until
the cooling fan cuts in, and then cuts out.
During this time, squeeze the top and bottom
radiator hoses to allow any trapped air to rise.

Every 2 years

1•21

33.5a Cooling system bleed screws may

be located in the heater hose . . .

33.5b . . . in the inlet manifold coolant

hose . . .

33.5c . . . or on the thermostat housing

(arrowed)

33.24 Fill the radiator through the filler (arrowed) on the left-hand side

Slacken and retighten the bleed screws to
allow any air that has risen to escape. Note:
Take great care not to scald yourself with the
hot coolant during this operation.
26 Stop the engine and allow it engine to
cool, then remove the “header tank” or refit
the expansion bottle/tank to its original
location.
27 When the engine has cooled, check the
coolant level with reference to Section 3 of
this Chapter. Top-up the level if necessary,
and refit the expansion tank cap.
Note: If, after draining and refilling the system,
symptoms of overheating are found which did
not occur previously, then the fault is almost
certainly due to trapped air at some point in
the system, causing an air-lock and restricting
the flow of coolant; usually, the air is trapped
because the system was refilled too quickly. In
some cases, air-locks can be released by
tapping or squeezing the various hoses. If the
problem persists, stop the engine and allow it
to cool down completely, before unscrewing
the expansion tank filler cap, slackening the
bleed screws, or disconnecting hoses to bleed
out the trapped air.

Antifreeze mixture

28 The antifreeze should always be renewed
at the specified intervals. This is necessary
not only to maintain the antifreeze properties,
but also to prevent corrosion which would
otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors
become progressively less effective.
29 Always use an ethylene-glycol based
antifreeze which is suitable for use in mixed-
metal cooling systems. The quantity of
antifreeze and levels of protection are
indicated in the Specifications.
30 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling
system should be completely drained,
preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for
condition and security.
31 After filling with antifreeze, a label should
be attached to the expansion tank, stating the
type and concentration of antifreeze used,
and the date installed. Any subsequent
topping-up should be made with the same
type and concentration of antifreeze.
32 Do not use engine antifreeze in the
windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will
cause damage to the vehicle paintwork. A
screenwash additive should be added to the
washer system in the quantities stated by the
makers.

34 Brake fluid renewal

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and damage
painted surfaces, so use
extreme caution when handling

and pouring it. Do not use fluid that has
been standing open for some time, as it
absorbs moisture from the air. Excess
moisture can cause a dangerous loss of
braking effectiveness.
1 The procedure is similar to that for the
bleeding of the hydraulic system as described
in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid
reservoir should be emptied by siphoning,
using a clean poultry baster or similar before
starting, and allowance should be made for
the old fluid to be expelled when bleeding a
section of the circuit.
2 Working as described in Chapter 9, open
the first bleed screw in the sequence, and
pump the brake pedal gently until nearly all
the old fluid has been emptied from the
master cylinder reservoir.

3 Top-up to the “MAX” level with new fluid,
and continue pumping until only the new fluid
remains in the reservoir, and new fluid can be
seen emerging from the bleed screw. Tighten
the screw, and top the reservoir level up to the
“MAX” level line.
4 Work through all the remaining bleed
screws in the sequence until new fluid can be
seen at all of them. Be careful to keep the
master cylinder reservoir topped-up to above
the “MIN” level at all times, or air may enter
the system and greatly increase the length of
the task.
5 When the operation is complete, check that
all bleed screws are securely tightened, and
that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off all
traces of spilt fluid, and recheck the master
cylinder reservoir fluid level.
6 Check the operation of the brakes before
taking the car on the road.

1•22

Every 2 years

33.25 Where possible, lift out the expansion bottle, suspend it from the bonnet to form a

“header” tank and fill to the “MAX” mark

Old hydraulic fluid is
invariably much darker in
colour than the new, making
it easy to distinguish the two.

Chapter 2 Part A:
XV, XW and XY engines in-car repair procedures

Engine general

Code and displacement:

XV8 (108C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

954 cc

XW7 (109F) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1124 cc

XY7 (150D) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1360 cc

XY8 (150B) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1360 cc

Bore:

XV8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70.0 mm

XW7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

72.0 mm

XY7 and XY8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

75.0 mm

Stroke:

XV8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

62.0 mm

XW7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

69.0 mm

XY7 and XY8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

77.0 mm

Compression ratio:

XV8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9.3 : 1

XW7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9.7 : 1

XY7 and XY8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9.7: 1

Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Clockwise (viewed from right-hand side of vehicle)

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at flywheel end of engine)

Valve clearances (engine cold)

Pre-January 1987 models:

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.10 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.25 mm

January 1987 on, from the following engine numbers:

XV8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

28401

XW7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

42460

XY7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

877201

XY8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

877001

Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.15 mm

Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.30 mm

Oil pump

Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.02 to 0.10 mm

Maximum lobe-to-body clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.064 mm

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Camshaft and rocker arms - removal, inspection and refitting  . . . . . 6
Compression test - description and interpretation  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Crankshaft oil seals - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Cylinder head - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal  . . . . . . . . 10
Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1

Engine oil level check  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly checks”
Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
General information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Timing chain, tensioner and sprockets - removal and refitting  . . . . . 4
Valve clearances - checking and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

2A•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Torque wrench settings

lbf ft

Engine mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Oil pump screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Chain tensioner bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Camshaft sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Timing chain cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Crankshaft pulley nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Rocker cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

General information

How to use this Chapter

This Part of Chapter 2 describes those

repair procedures that can reasonably be
carried out on the XV, XW and XY series
engines while they remain in the car. If the
engine has been removed from the car and is
being dismantled as described in Part D, any
preliminary dismantling procedures can be
ignored. Refer to Part B and C for information
on the XU series and TU series engines.

Part D describes the removal of the

engine/transmission from the vehicle, and the
full overhaul procedures that can then be
carried out.

Engine description

One of three different capacity engines in

this series may be fitted, the difference in
displacement being achieved by increasing
the bore and stroke. The engine, which has
four cylinders and an overhead camshaft, is
mounted transversely, driving the front
wheels, and it is inclined to the rear at an
angle of 72° from vertical.

The manual transmission is also mounted

transversely in line with and below the engine,
and the final drive to the roadwheels is via the
differential unit which is integral with the
transmission. Drive from the engine to the
transmission is by means of transfer gears
which are separately encased in the clutch
housing.

The crankcase, cylinder head, gearcase

and clutch housing are all manufactured from
aluminium alloy. Removable wet cylinder
liners are fitted; the aluminium pistons each
have two compression rings and one oil
control ring. The valves are operated by the
single overhead camshaft via rocker arms.
The camshaft drives the distributor at the
flywheel end. The timing sprocket, located at
the other end of the camshaft, incorporates a
separate eccentric lobe which actuates the
fuel pump. The timing chain is driven from the
crankshaft sprocket. Next to the timing chain

sprocket is the gearwheel which drives the oil
pump. This is mounted low down against the
crankcase face and is enclosed in the timing
chain cover.

The crankshaft runs in five shell type main

bearings and the endfloat is adjustable via a
pair of semi-circular thrustwashers.
Somewhat inconveniently, the lower half
crankcase interconnects the engine with the
transmission and limits the number of
operations that can be carried out with the
engine in the car. The engine and
transmissions share the same mountings. A
forced feed lubrication system is employed.
The oil pump is attached to the crankcase in
the lower section of the timing chest and it
incorporates the pressure relief valve. The
pump is driven by gears from the crankshaft.

Oil from the pump passes via an oilway to

the oil filter, and thence to the crankshaft main
bearings, connecting rod bearings and
transmission components. Another oilway
from the filter delivers oil to the overhead
camshaft and rocker components. Oil from
the cylinder head passes to the transfer gear
housing and then back to the sump contained
within the transmission housing.

Apart from the standard replaceable

canister filter located on the outside of the
crankcase there is a gauze filter incorporated
in the oil pump suction inlet within the
transmission casing.

Repair operations possible with
the engine in the car

The following work can be carried out with

the engine in the car:

a) Valve clearances - adjustment.
b) Compression pressure - testing.
c) Timing chain - removal and refitting.
d) Oil pump - removal, inspection and

refitting.

e) Camshaft and rocker arms - removal,

inspection and refitting.

f) Cylinder head - removal and refitting.
g) Cylinder head and pistons -

decarbonising.

h) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.
i) Flywheel - removal and refitting.
j) Engine mountings - inspection and

renewal.

Valve clearances - checking
and adjustment

Note: The valve clearances must be checked
and adjusted only when the engine is cold.
1 The importance of having the valve
clearances correctly adjusted cannot be
overstressed, as they vitally affect the
performance of the engine. If the clearances
are too big, the engine will be noisy
(characteristic rattling or tapping noises) and
engine efficiency will be reduced, as the
valves open too late and close too early. A
more serious problem arises if the clearances
are too small, however. If this is the case, the
valves may not close fully when the engine is
hot, resulting in serious damage to the engine
(eg. burnt valve seats and/or cylinder head
warping/cracking). The clearances are
checked and adjusted as follows.
2 Disconnect the spark plug HT leads and
remove the oil filler/crankcase ventilation cap
from the rocker cover.
3 Remove the rocker cover and then turn the
engine using a spanner on the crankshaft
pulley nut until the valves on No 1 cylinder are
rocking (ie inlet valve opening and exhaust
valve closing).

4 The rocker arm clearances of both valves of
No 4 cylinder can now be checked and, if
necessary, adjusted. Remember that No 1
cylinder is at the flywheel/clutch end of the
engine.
5 The feeler blade of the correct thickness is
inserted between the valve stem and rocker
arm. When the clearance is correctly set the
feeler blade should be a smooth stiff sliding fit
between the valve stem and rocker arm. The
correct valve clearances are given in the
Specifications at the start of this Chapter. The
valve locations can be determined from the
position of the manifolds. Note that engines
manufactured from January 1987, with

2A•2 XV, XW and XY series engine in-car repair procedures

Turning the engine will be
easier if the spark plugs are
removed first - see Chapter 1.

bi-metal rockers consisting of an aluminium
arm and steel pad, have different valve
clearances than earlier engines. Ensure that
the correct figures are used according to
engine type.
6 If the feeler blade is a tight or loose fit then
the clearance must be adjusted. To do this,
loosen the locknut of the adjustment stud and
screw the adjuster stud in or out until the
feeler blade can be felt to drag slightly when
drawn from the gap.
7 Hold the adjuster firmly in this position and
tighten the locknut. Recheck the gap on
completion to ensure that it has not altered
when locking the nut and stud (see
illustration).
8 Check each valve clearance in turn in the
following sequence remembering that the
clearances for inlet and exhaust valves are
different. The valves are numbered from the
flywheel end of the engine.

Valves rocking

Valves to adjust

1 In 2 Ex

7 In 8 Ex

5 In 6 Ex

3 In 4 Ex

7 In 8 Ex

1 In 2 Ex

3 In 4 Ex

5 In 6 Ex

9 Fit the rocker cover using a new gasket,
then refit the spark plugs, HT leads and oil
filler/crankcase ventilation cap.

Compression test -
description and interpretation

1 When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel systems, a compression
test can provide diagnostic clues as to the
engine’s condition. If the test is performed
regularly, it can give warning of trouble before
any other symptoms become apparent.
2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to
normal operating temperature, the battery
must be fully charged, and all the spark plugs
must be removed (Chapter 1). The aid of an
assistant will also be required.
3 Disable the ignition system by
disconnecting the ignition HT coil lead from
the distributor cap and earthing it on the
cylinder block. Use a jumper lead or similar
wire to make a good connection.
4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1
cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester
which screws into the plug thread is to be
preferred.
5 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open, and crank the engine on the starter
motor; after one or two revolutions, the
compression pressure should build up to a
maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record
the highest reading obtained.
6 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure in each.
7 All cylinders should produce very similar
pressures; a difference of more than 2 bars
between any two cylinders indicates a fault.

Note that the compression should build up
quickly in a healthy engine; low compression
on the first stroke, followed by gradually-
increasing pressure on successive strokes,
indicates worn piston rings. A low
compression reading on the first stroke, which
does not build up during successive strokes,
indicates leaking valves or a blown head
gasket (a cracked head could also be the
cause). Deposits on the undersides of the
valve heads can also cause low compression.
8 Although Peugeot do not specify exact
compression pressures, as a guide, any
cylinder pressure of below 10 bars can be

considered as less than healthy. Refer to a
Peugeot dealer or other specialist if in doubt
as to whether a particular pressure reading is
acceptable.
9 If the pressure in any cylinder is low, carry
out the following test to isolate the cause.
Introduce a teaspoonful of clean oil into that
cylinder through its spark plug hole, and
repeat the test.
10 If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear is responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
11 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders
is almost certainly due to the head gasket
having blown between them; the presence of
coolant in the engine oil will confirm this.
12 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower
than the others and the engine has a slightly
rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be the
cause.
13 If the compression reading is unusually
high, the combustion chambers are probably
coated with carbon deposits. If this is the
case, the cylinder head should be removed
and decarbonised.
14 On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the ignition system.

Timing chain, tensioner and
sprockets - removal and
refitting

Removal

1 Support the engine/transmission on a
trolley jack with a block of wood as an
insulator.
2 Release the nuts on the right-hand flexible
engine mounting at the base of the timing
chain cover.
3 Raise the engine just enough to clear the
side-member and anti-roll bar.
4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1, and the fuel pump as described
in Chapter 4A.
5 Unscrew and remove the crankshaft pulley
nut. To do this the crankshaft must be held
against rotation by jamming the starter ring
gear. Remove the starter, as described in
Chapter 5A. Alternatively, if an assistant is
available, apply the brakes fully with a gear
engaged. Withdraw the pulley.
6 Unbolt and remove the rocker cover, and
disconnect the spark plug HT leads.
7 Unscrew and remove the timing chain
cover bolts. Take off the cover and extract the
fuel pump operating rod.
8 Turn the crankshaft either by temporarily
refitting the pulley nut or by engaging a gear
and turning a front wheel (raised) until the
timing marks are located in the following
positions. Camshaft sprocket mark between
two bright links on chain. Crankshaft sprocket
mark opposite centre of single bright link (see
illustration).

XV, XW and XY series engine in-car repair procedures 2A•3

2.7 Adjusting the valve clearances

4.8 Sprocket timing marks and timing

chain bright links aligned

Camshaft sprocket timing mark

Crankshaft sprocket timing mark

9 Remove the crankshaft oil pump drivegear
and its Woodruff key.
10 Unbolt the oil pump. Some
socket-headed screws are accessible through
the holes in the driven gear (see illustration).
Lift off the pump and spacer plate (see
illustration).
11 Jam the camshaft sprocket and unscrew
the sprocket retaining bolt. Take off the fuel
pump operating eccentric.
12 Turn the lock on the chain tensioner
anti-clockwise to lock it in its retracted state
(see illustration).
13 Remove the camshaft sprocket with
timing chain.
14 Thoroughly clean all the removed
components ensuring that all traces of old

gasket are removed from the timing cover,
rocker cover and engine mating faces.
15 Examine the teeth of both sprockets for
wear. Each tooth on a sprocket is an inverted
V-shape and wear is apparent when one side
of the tooth becomes more concave in shape
than the other. When badly worn, the teeth
become hoop-shaped and the sprockets
must be renewed. The crankshaft sprocket
and oil pump drive gear are removed by
sliding them off the crankshaft with their
Woodruff keys.
16 If the sprockets need to be renewed then
the chain will have worn also and should also
be renewed. If the sprockets are satisfactory,
examine the chain and look for play between
the links. When the chain is held out
horizontally, it should not bend appreciably.
Remember, a chain is only as strong as its
weakest link and, being a relatively cheap
item, it is worthwhile fitting a replacement
anyway.
17 Check the condition of the tensioner
slipper. If it is worn, renew it; it is held in
position by two bolts. If the tensioner is
removed, note the fine mesh filter screen
located behind the tensioner body. Ensure
that it is clean and in place when refitting the
tensioner.
18 Inspect the oil pump drive gears for wear

or damage and renew if necessary. Always fit
a new timing cover oil seal (see Section 8).

Refitting

19 Check that the crankshaft is positioned
correctly by observing the crankshaft
sprocket keyway which should be in
alignment with the crankcase joint (see
illustration 4.8). Turn the crankshaft if
necessary to bring it to the correct position.
Temporarily fit the camshaft sprocket and
rotate the camshaft until the keyway is also
positioned as shown.
20 Engage the chain around the crankshaft
sprocket so that the timing mark on the
sprocket is in the centre of the single bright
link on the chain (see illustration).
21 Now engage the upper loop of the chain
over the camshaft sprocket so that the timing
mark is between the two bright links on the
chain (see illustration).
22 Now offer the camshaft sprocket to the
shaft. Adjust the position of the camshaft so
that the sprocket keyway aligns with the key.
23 Push the camshaft sprocket into position.
Insert and tighten its retaining bolt with the
fuel pump eccentric correctly located (see
illustration).

2A•4 XV, XW and XY series engine in-car repair procedures

4.12 Timing chain tensioner lock (2)

Turn in direction of arrow to release slipper -

turn in opposite direction to retract slipper

4.10b Removing the oil pump and spacer

plate

4.10a Removing oil pump screw with Allen

key

4.20 Timing chain bright link (arrowed) positioned over crankshaft

sprocket timing mark

4.21 Camshaft sprocket timing mark positioned between two

bright links (arrowed) on chain

24 Using a very thin screwdriver blade, turn
the lock on the chain tensioner fully clockwise
to release the slipper (see illustration).
25 Check that the locating dowel is in
position and fit the oil pump with spacer plate.
If the pump driven sprocket is hard to turn,
release the pump mounting bolts and turn the
pump slightly on its locating dowel.
Re-tighten the bolts.
26 Fit the oil pump drivegear to the
crankshaft.
27 Bolt on the timing chain cover using a new
gasket. The bolt nearest the coolant pump
pulley must be located in the cover before
offering it up, otherwise the pulley will prevent
the bolt entering its cover hole (see
illustration). Do not tighten the cover bolts until
the crankshaft pulley has been pushed into
place to centralise the cover. Fit the coolant
hose safety rod under its cover bolts. This rod
prevents the coolant hose being cut by the rim
of the coolant pump pulley should the hose sag.
28 Fit the fuel pump operating rod and fuel
pump with reference to Chapter 4A, if
necessary.
29 Tighten the timing chain cover bolts to the
specified torque and then trim the upper ends
of the gasket flush. Fit the rocker cover using
a new gasket. Do not overtighten the securing
bolts.
30 Tighten the crankshaft pulley nut to the
specified torque, again jamming the flywheel
to prevent the crankshaft rotating.
31 Refit the starter, if removed (Chapter 5A).
32 Refit and tension the auxiliary drivebelt
(Chapter 1).

33 Lower the engine, reconnect the
mounting.

Oil pump - removal,
inspection and refitting

Removal

1 Carry out the operations described in
Section 4, paragraphs 1 to 10.

Inspection

2 The oil pump gears are exposed once the
spacer plate is removed.
3 Side movement of the gear spindles will
indicate wear in the bushes and the pump
should be renewed complete.
4 Worn or chipped gear teeth must be
rectified by renewal of the gear.
5 Check the endfloat of the gears using a
straight-edge and feeler blades (see
illustration).
6 Check the clearance between the tip of the
gear lobes and the oil pump body (see
illustration).
7 If any of these clearances exceed the
specified limit, renew the pump.
8 Remove the retaining pin from the relief
valve housing and withdraw the cup, spring,
guide and piston. Renew any worn
components

(see illustration).

9 Check that the locating dowel is in position
and fit the oil pump with spacer plate. If the
pump driven sprocket is hard to turn, release

the pump mounting bolts and turn the pump
slightly on its locating dowel. Re-tighten the
bolts.

Refitting

10 Carry out the operations described in
Section 4, paragraphs 24 to 33.

Camshaft and rocker arms -
removal, inspection and
refitting

General information

1 The rocker arm assembly is secured to the
top of the cylinder head by the cylinder head
bolts. Although in theory it is possible to undo
the head bolts and remove the rocker arm
assembly without removing the head, in
practice, this is not recommended. Once the
bolts have been removed, the head gasket will
be disturbed, and the gasket will almost
certainly leak or blow after refitting. For this
reason, removal of the rocker arm assembly
cannot be done without removing the cylinder
head and renewing the head gasket.
2 The camshaft is slid out of the right-hand
end of the cylinder head, and it therefore
cannot be removed without first removing the
cylinder head, due to a lack of clearance.

Removal

Rocker arm assembly

3 Remove the cylinder head as described in
Section 7.

XV, XW and XY series engine in-car repair procedures 2A•5

4.23 Tightening the camshaft sprocket

retaining bolt

4.24 Releasing the timing chain tensioner

4.27 Timing cover bolt next to coolant

pump pulley in place prior to fitting cover

5.5 Checking oil pump gear endfloat

5.6 Checking oil pump gear to body

clearance

5.8 Oil pump pressure relief valve

components

Content .. 3 4 5 6 ..