Peugeot 205 (954 cc, 1124 cc, 1360 cc, 1580 cc & 1905 cc). Manual - part 4

by moving the alternator by hand, or
tightening the adjuster bolt.
11 Tension the drivebelt as described in the
following paragraphs.

Tensioning

12 If not already done, proceed as described
in paragraphs 2 and 3.
13 Correct tensioning of the drivebelt will
ensure that it has a long life. A belt which is
too slack will slip and perhaps squeal.
Beware, however, of overtightening, as this
can cause wear in the alternator bearings.
14 The belt should be tensioned so that,
under firm thumb pressure, there is
approximately 5.0 mm of free movement at
the mid-point between the pulleys on the
longest belt run.
15 To adjust, with the upper mounting
nut/bolt just holding the alternator firm, and
the lower mounting nut/bolt loosened, lever
the alternator away from the engine, or turn
the adjuster bolt until the correct tension is
achieved. Rotate the crankshaft a couple of
times, recheck the tension, then securely
tighten both the alternator mounting
nuts/bolts. Where applicable, also tighten the
bolt securing the adjuster strap to its
mounting bracket.
16 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
17 Refit the plastic cover to the wing valance.
Refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to
the ground.

10 Clutch pedal stroke

adjustment

1

1 The clutch pedal stroke adjustment is
checked by measuring the clutch pedal travel.
Before doing this, settle the cable by
depressing and releasing it a few times.
2 Ensure that there are no obstructions
beneath the clutch pedal then measure the
distance from the centre of the clutch pedal
pad to the base of the steering wheel with the
pedal in the at-rest position. Depress the
clutch pedal fully to the floor, and measure the
distance from the centre of the clutch pedal
pad to the base of the steering wheel (see
illustration).

3 Subtract the first measurement from the
second to obtain the clutch pedal travel. If this
is not with the range given in the
Specifications at the start of this Chapter,
adjust the clutch as follows.
4 On models fitted with the BH3
transmission, loosen the locknut and turn the
adjuster on the transmission intermediate
lever pushrod as necessary. On all other
models, slacken the locknut and turn the
adjuster nut on the end of the cable.
5 Check the pedal stroke again and make
further adjustments as necessary. When all is
correct, tighten the relevant locknut.

11 Seat belt check

1

Check the seat belts for satisfactory

operation and condition. Inspect the webbing
for fraying and cuts. Check that they retract
smoothly and without binding into their reels.

Check the seat belt mountings, ensuring

that all the bolts are securely tightened.

12 Lock and hinge check and

lubrication

1

1 Check that the doors, bonnet and tailgate
close securely. Check that the bonnet safety
catch operates correctly. Check the operation
of the door check straps.
2 Lubricate the hinges, door check straps,
the striker plates and the bonnet catch
sparingly with a little oil or grease.
3 If any of the doors, bonnet or tailgate/boot
lid do not close effectively or appear not to be
flush with the surrounding panels, carry out
the relevant adjustment procedures contained
in Chapter 11.

13 Rear brake shoe check -

models with rear drum brakes

3

Remove the rear brake drums, and check the

brake shoes for signs of wear or contamination.
At the same time, also inspect the wheel
cylinders for signs of leakage, and the brake
drum for signs of wear. Refer to the relevant
Sections of Chapter 9 for further information.

14 Rear brake pad condition

check - models with rear disc
brakes

1

1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
Remove the rear roadwheels.
2 For a quick check, the thickness of friction
material remaining on each brake pad can be

measured through the top of the caliper body.
If any pad’s friction material is worn to the
specified thickness or less, all four pads must
be renewed as a set.
3 For a comprehensive check, the brake pads
should be removed and cleaned. This will
permit the operation of the caliper to be
checked, and the condition of the brake disc
itself to be fully examined on both sides. Refer
to Chapter 9 for further information.

15 Handbrake check and

adjustment

2

Refer to Chapter 9.

16 Underbody and fuel/brake

line check

1

1 With the vehicle raised and supported on
axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
support”), or over an inspection pit,
thoroughly inspect the underbody and wheel
arches for signs of damage and corrosion. In
particular, examine the bottom of the side
sills, and any concealed areas where mud can
collect. Where corrosion and rust is evident,
press and tap firmly on the panel with a
screwdriver, and check for any serious
corrosion which would necessitate repairs. If
the panel is not seriously corroded, clean
away the rust, and apply a new coating of
underseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for more
details of body repairs.
2 At the same time, inspect the treated lower
body panels for stone damage and general
condition.
3 Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on the
underbody for damage, rust, corrosion and
leakage. Also make sure that they are
correctly supported in their clips. Where
applicable, check the PVC coating on the
lines for damage.
4 Inspect the flexible brake hoses in the
vicinity of the calipers, where they are
subjected to most movement. Bend them
between the fingers (but do not actually bend
them double, or the casing may be damaged)
and check that this does not reveal
previously-hidden cracks, cuts or splits. 

17 Exhaust system check

1

1 With the engine cold (at least three hours
after the vehicle has been driven), check the
complete exhaust system, from its starting
point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe.
Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, where
unrestricted access is available; if a hoist is not
available, raise and support the vehicle on axle
stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).

1•12

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

10.2  To check the clutch pedal stroke,

measure the clutch pedal travel as

described in the text

2 Check the pipes and connections for
evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, or
damage. Make sure that all brackets and
rubber mountings are in good condition, and
tight; if any of the mountings are to be
renewed, ensure that the replacements are of
the correct type. Leakage at any of the joints
or in other parts of the system will usually
show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity
of the leak.
3 At the same time, inspect the underside of
the body for holes, corrosion, open seams,
etc. which may allow exhaust gases to enter
the passenger compartment. Seal all body
openings with silicone or body putty.
4 Rattles and other noises can often be
traced to the exhaust system, especially the
rubber mountings. Try to move the system,
silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If any
components can touch the body or
suspension parts, secure the exhaust system
with new mountings.

18 Bodywork, paint and exterior

trim check

1

1 The best time to carry out this check is after
the car has been washed so that any surface
blemish or scratch will be clearly evident and
not hidden by a film of dirt.
2 Starting at one front corner check the
paintwork all around the car, looking for minor
scratches or more serious dents. Check all
the trim and make sure that it is securely
attached over its entire length.
3 Check the security of all door locks, door
mirrors, badges, bumpers, radiator grille and
wheel trim. Anything found loose, or in need
of further attention should be done with
reference to the relevant Chapters of this
manual.
4 Rectify any problems noticed with the
paintwork or body panels as described in
Chapter 11.

19 Headlight beam alignment

check

1

Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam

is only possible using optical beam-setting
setting equipment, and this work should
therefore be carried out by a Peugeot dealer
or service station with the necessary facilities.

Basic adjustments can be carried out in an

emergency, and further details are given in
Chapter 12.

20 Air conditioning system

check

1

Warning: The air conditioning
system is under high pressure.
Do not loosen any fittings or
remove any components until

after the system has been discharged. Air
conditioning refrigerant must be properly
discharged into an approved type of
container, at a dealer service department
or an automotive air conditioning repair
facility capable of handling the refrigerant
safely. Always wear eye protection when
disconnecting air conditioning system
fittings.
1 The following maintenance checks should
be performed on a regular basis, to ensure
that the system continues to operate at peak
efficiency:

a) Check the auxiliary drivebelt. If it’s worn

or deteriorated, renew it.

b) Check the system hoses. Look for cracks,

bubbles, hard spots and deterioration.
Inspect the hoses and all fittings for oil
bubbles and seepage. If there’s any
evidence of wear, damage or leaks, renew
the hose(s).

c) Inspect the condenser fins for leaves,

insects and other debris. Use a “fin

comb” or compressed air to clean the
condenser.

Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!

d) Check that the drain tube from the front

of the evaporator is clear - note that it is
normal to have clear fluid (water) dripping
from this while the system is in operation,
to the extent that quite a large puddle can
be left under the vehicle when it is parked.

2 It’s a good idea to operate the system for
about 30 minutes at least once a month,
particularly during the winter. Long term
non-use can cause hardening, and
subsequent failure, of the seals.
3 Because of the complexity of the air
conditioning system and the special
equipment necessary to service it, in-depth
repairs are not included in this manual, apart
from those procedures covered in Chapter 3.
4 The most common cause of poor cooling is
simply a low system refrigerant charge. If a
noticeable drop in cool air output occurs, the
following quick check will help you determine
if the refrigerant level is low.
5 Warm the engine up to normal operating
temperature.
6 Place the air conditioning temperature
selector at the coldest setting, and put the
blower at the highest setting. Open the doors
- to make sure the air conditioning system
doesn’t cycle off as soon as it cools the
passenger compartment.
7 With the compressor engaged - the clutch
will make an audible click, and the centre of
the clutch will rotate - feel the inlet and outlet
pipes at the compressor. One side should be
cold, and one hot. If there’s no perceptible
difference between the two pipes, there’s
something wrong with the compressor or the
system. It might be a low charge - it might be
something else. Take the vehicle to a dealer
service department or an automotive air
conditioning specialist.

21 Manual transmission oil level

check

2

Note:

The following procedure is only

applicable to models produced after
approximately October 1986. There is no
provision on the transmission for fluid level
checking on earlier transmissions (see Chapter
7A). Suitable square-section wrench may be
required to undo the transmission filler/level
plug on some models. These wrenches can be
obtained from most motor factors or your
Peugeot dealer.

1 Park the car on a level surface. The oil level
must be checked before the car is driven, or
at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
switched off. If the oil is checked immediately
after driving the car, some of the oil will
remain distributed around the transmission
components, resulting in an inaccurate level
reading.
2 Prise out the retaining clips and remove the
access cover from the left-hand wheelarch
liner.
3 Wipe clean the area around the filler/level
plug, which is situated on the left-hand end of
the transmission (see illustration). Unscrew
the plug and clean it; discard the sealing
washer.

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months  

1•13

1

21.3  Using a square section wrench to

unscrew the transmission filler/level plug

(MA transmission shown)

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

4 The oil level should reach the lower edge of
the filler/level hole. A certain amount of oil will
have gathered behind the filler/level plug, and
will trickle out when it is removed; this does
not necessarily indicate that the level is
correct. To ensure that a true level is
established, wait until the initial trickle has
stopped, then add oil as necessary until a
trickle of new oil can be seen emerging (see
illustration). The level will be correct when
the flow ceases; use only good-quality oil of
the specified type (refer to “Lubricants, fluids
and capacities”).
5 Filling the transmission with oil is an
extremely awkward operation; above all, allow
plenty of time for the oil level to settle properly
before checking it. If a large amount is added
to the transmission, and a large amount flows
out on checking the level, refit the filler/level
plug and take the vehicle on a short journey
so that the new oil is distributed fully around
the transmission components, then recheck
the level when it has settled again.
6 If the transmission has been overfilled so
that oil flows out as soon as the filler/level
plug is removed, check that the car is
completely level (front-to-rear and side-to-
side), and allow the surplus to drain off into a
suitable container.
7 When the level is correct, fit a new sealing
washer to the filler/level plug. Refit the plug,
tightening it to the specified torque wrench
setting. Wash off any spilt oil then refit the
access cover securing it in position with the
retaining clips.

22 Manual transmission oil

renewal

3

This service requirement is only applicable

to pre-1988 BE1 transmissions. Refer to the
procedures contained in Chapter 7A.

23 Automatic transmission fluid

renewal

2

1 Take the vehicle on a short run, to warm the
transmission up to normal operating
temperature.
2 Park the car on level ground, then switch off
the ignition and apply the handbrake firmly.
For improved access, jack up the front of the
car and support it securely on axle stands.
Note that, when refilling and checking the fluid
level, the car must be lowered to the ground,
and level, to ensure accuracy.
3 Remove the dipstick, then position a
suitable container under the transmission. The
transmission has two drain plugs: one on the
sump, and another on the bottom of the
differential housing (see illustration).

Warning: If the fluid is hot, take
precautions against scalding.

4 Unscrew both drain plugs, and allow the
fluid to drain completely into the container.
Clean the drain plugs, being especially careful
to wipe any metallic particles off the magnetic
insert. Discard the original sealing washers;

these should be renewed whenever they are
disturbed.
5 When the fluid has finished draining, clean
the drain plug threads and those of the
transmission casing. Fit a new sealing washer
to each drain plug, and refit the plugs to the
transmission, tightening each securely. If the
car was raised for the draining operation, now
lower it to the ground. Make sure that the car
is level (front-to-rear and side-to-side).
6 Refilling the transmission is an awkward
operation, adding the specified type of fluid to
the transmission a little at a time via the
dipstick tube. Use a funnel with a fine-mesh
gauze, to avoid spillage, and to ensure that no
foreign matter enters the transmission. Allow
plenty of time for the fluid level to settle
properly.
7 Once the level is up to the “MAX” mark on
the dipstick, refit the dipstick. Start the
engine, and allow it to idle for a few minutes.
Switch the engine off, then recheck the level,
topping-up if necessary. Take the car on a
short run to fully distribute the new fluid
around the transmission, then recheck the
fluid level as described in Section 5.

24 Driveshaft bellows check

1

With the vehicle raised and securely

supported on stands (see “Jacking and
vehicle support”), turn the steering onto full
lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel.
Inspect the condition of the outer constant
velocity (CV) joint rubber bellows, squeezing
the bellows to open out the folds (see
illustration). Check for signs of cracking,
splits or deterioration of the rubber, which
may allow the grease to escape, and lead to
water and grit entry into the joint. Also check
the security and condition of the retaining
clips. Repeat these checks on the inner CV
joints. If any damage or deterioration is found,
the bellows should be renewed as described
in Chapter 8.

At the same time, check the general

condition of the CV joints themselves by first
holding the driveshaft and attempting to
rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding

1•14

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

21.4  Topping-up the transmission oil level

23.3  Automatic transmission fluid drain plugs (arrowed). Transmission is refilled via the

dipstick tube (1)

24.1  Check the condition of the driveshaft

bellows (arrowed)

the inner joint and attempting to rotate the
driveshaft. Any appreciable movement
indicates wear in the joints, wear in the
driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft
retaining nut.

25 Steering and suspension

check

2

Front suspension and steering
check

1 Apply the handbrake then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers and
the steering gear bellows for splits, chafing or
deterioration. Any wear of these components
will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt
and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration
of the balljoints or steering gear.
3 Check the power steering fluid hoses
(where applicable) for chafing or deterioration,
and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks.
Also check for signs of fluid leakage under
pressure from the steering gear rubber
bellows, which would indicate failed fluid
seals within the steering gear.
4 Check for signs of fluid leakage around the
suspension strut body, or from the rubber
boot around the piston rod (where fitted).
Should any fluid be noticed, the shock
absorber is defective internally, and renewal is
necessary.

5 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it (see
illustration). Very slight free play may be felt,
but if the movement is appreciable, further
investigation is necessary to determine the
source. Continue rocking the wheel while an
assistant depresses the footbrake. If the
movement is now eliminated or significantly
reduced, it is likely that the wheel bearings are
at fault. If the free play is still evident with the
footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the
suspension joints or mountings.
6 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3
o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before.
Any movement felt now may again be caused
by wear in the wheel bearings or the steering
track rod end balljoints. If the outer track rod
end is worn, the visual movement will be
obvious. If the inner joint is suspect, it can be
felt by placing a hand over the rack-and-pinion
rubber bellows, and gripping the track rod. If
the wheel is now rocked, movement will be felt
at the inner joint if wear has taken place.
7 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check
for wear in the suspension mounting bushes
by levering between the relevant suspension
component and its attachment point. Some
movement is to be expected as the mountings
are made of rubber, but excessive wear
should be obvious. Also check the condition
of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits,
cracks or contamination of the rubber.
8 With the vehicle standing on its wheels,
have an assistant turn the steering wheel
back-and-forth, about an eighth of a turn each
way. There should be very little, if any, lost
movement between the steering wheel and

roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely
observe the joints and mountings previously
described, but in addition, check the steering
column universal joints for wear, and also
check the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.
9 The efficiency of the shock absorber may
be checked by bouncing the car at each front
corner. Generally speaking, the body will
return to its normal position and stop after
being depressed. If it rises and returns on a
rebound, the shock absorber is probably
suspect. Examine also the shock absorber
upper and lower mountings for any signs of
wear or fluid leakage.

Rear suspension check

10 Chock the front wheels, then raise the rear
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
11 Check the rear hub bearings for wear,
using the method described for the front hub
bearings (paragraph 4).
12 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar,
check for wear in the suspension mounting
bushes by levering between the relevant
suspension component and its attachment
point. Some movement is to be expected as
the mountings are made of rubber, but
excessive wear should be obvious. Check the
condition of the shock absorbers as
described previously.

26 Air cleaner filter element

renewal

1

XV, XW and XY series engines

1 Unscrew the wing nut on the air cleaner
casing end-face (see illustration).
2 Withdraw the end cover with element (see
illustration).
3 Discard the element and wipe the casing
interior clean.
4 Fit the new element and the cover, tighten
the wing nut.

XU and TU series engines

4 Disconnect the air duct from the end of the
air cleaner.
5 Unscrew the nuts and remove the end (or
top) cover (see illustrations). On some types

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years  

1•15

1

25.5  Check for wear in the hub bearings

by grasping the wheel and trying to rock it

26.1  On XV, XW and XY series engines,

unscrew the wing nut on the air cleaner

cover . . .

26.2  . . . and remove the cover and filter

element

26.5a  On XU and TU series engines,

unscrew the nuts . . .

26.5b  . . . or release the spring clips . . .

of air cleaner, the end (or top) cover is
retained by a number of spring clips.
6 Extract the element (see illustration).
7 Discard the element and wipe the casing
interior clean.
8 Insert the new element then refit the end
cover and air duct. Ensure that the cover is
correctly seated, to prevent air leaks, before
fastening with the nuts or the clips.

27 Ignition system check

1

Warning: Voltages produced by
an electronic ignition system are
considerably higher than those
produced by conventional

ignition systems. Extreme care must be
taken when working on the system with
the ignition switched on. Persons with
surgically-implanted cardiac pacemaker
devices should keep well clear of the
ignition circuits, components and test
equipment.
1 The ignition system components should be
checked for damage or deterioration as
described under the relevant sub-heading.

Carburettor models

General component check

2 The spark plug (HT) leads should be
checked whenever new spark plugs are fitted.
3 Ensure that the leads are numbered before
removing them, to avoid confusion when
refitting (see Section 27). Pull the leads from
the plugs by gripping the end fitting, not the
lead, otherwise the lead connection may be
fractured.
4 Check inside the end fitting for signs of
corrosion, which will look like a white crusty
powder. Push the end fitting back onto the
spark plug, ensuring that it is a tight fit on the
plug. If not, remove the lead again and use
pliers to carefully crimp the metal connector
inside the end fitting until it fits securely on the
end of the spark plug.
5 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of
the lead to remove any built-up dirt and
grease. Once the lead is clean, check for
burns, cracks and other damage. Do not bend

the lead excessively, nor pull the lead
lengthways - the conductor inside might
break.
6 Disconnect the other end of the lead from
the distributor cap. Again, pull only on the end
fitting. Check for corrosion and a tight fit in the
same manner as the spark plug end. If an
ohmmeter is available, check the resistance of
the lead by connecting the meter between the
spark plug end of the lead and the segment
inside the distributor cap. Refit the lead
securely on completion.
7 Check the remaining leads one at a time, in
the same way.
8 If new spark plug (HT) leads are required,
purchase a set for your specific car and
engine.
9 Release the clips or unscrew its retaining
screws and remove the distributor cap. Wipe
it clean, and carefully inspect it inside and out
for signs of cracks, black carbon tracks
(tracking) and worn, burned or loose contacts;
check that the cap’s carbon brush is unworn,
free to move against spring pressure, and
making good contact with the rotor arm. Also
inspect the cap seal for signs of wear or
damage, and renew if necessary. Remove the
rotor arm from the distributor shaft and
inspect the rotor arm (see illustration). It is
common practice to renew the cap and rotor
arm whenever new spark plug (HT) leads are
fitted. When fitting a new cap, remove the
leads from the old cap one at a time, and fit
them to the new cap in the exact same
location - do not simultaneously remove all
the leads from the old cap, or firing order
confusion may occur. When refitting, ensure

that the arm is securely pressed onto the
shaft, and tighten the cap retaining screws
securely.
10 Even with the ignition system in first-class
condition, some engines may still occasionally
experience poor starting attributable to damp
ignition components. To disperse moisture, a
water-dispersant aerosol can be very
effective.

Ignition timing - check and
adjustment

11 Check the ignition timing as described in
Chapter 5B.

Fuel-injected models

General component check

12 On single-point fuel injection models,
carry out the checks described above in
paragraphs 3 to 8 noting that on some
models the HT leads are removed from the
ignition module, not the distributor cap. On
multi-point fuel injection models, carry out
the checks described above in paragraphs 3
to 10.

Ignition timing - check and
adjustment

13 Refer to Chapter 5B.

28 Idle speed and mixture

check and adjustment

3

1 Before checking the idle speed and mixture
setting, always check the following first:

a) Check the ignition timing (Chapter 5B).
b) Check that the spark plugs are in good

condition and correctly gapped (Sec-
tion 7).

c) Check that the throttle cable and, on

carburettor models, the choke cable
(where fitted) is correctly adjusted
(Section 8 and Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C).

d) Check that the crankcase breather hoses

are secure, with no leaks or kinks (Sec-
tion 29).

e) Check that the air cleaner filter element is

clean (Section 26).

f) Check that the exhaust system is in good

condition (Chapter 4D).

g) If the engine is running very roughly,

check the compression pressures and
valve clearances as described in Chapter
2A, 2B or 2C.

2 Take the car on a journey of sufficient
length to warm it up to normal operating
temperature. Proceed as described under the
relevant sub-heading. Note: Adjustment
should be completed within two minutes of
return, without stopping the engine. If this
cannot be achieved, or if the radiator electric
cooling fan operates, first wait for the cooling
fan to stop. Clear any excess fuel from the
inlet manifold by racing the engine two or
three times to between 2000 and 3000 rpm,
then allow it to idle again.

1•16

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

26.5c  . . . then lift off the top, or end cover

26.6  With the cover removed, withdraw

the filter element

27.9  Remove the rotor arm from the

distributor for inspection

Carburettor models

Idle speed adjustment - single
carburettor engines

3 Ensure that all electrical loads are switched
off and, where applicable, the choke is
pushed fully in; if the car does not have a
tachometer (rev counter), connect one to the
engine, following its manufacturer’s
instructions. Note the idle speed, and
compare it with that specified.
4 The idle speed adjusting screw is situated
in various locations according to carburettor
type (see illustrations). It may be necessary
to remove a retaining clip and plastic cover to
gain access to the carburettor. Using a
suitable flat-bladed screwdriver, turn the idle
speed screw in or out as necessary to obtain
the specified idling speed as given in the
Specifications.
5 If the idle mixture CO content is not to be
adjusted, switch off the engine, disconnect
any instruments and refit all disturbed
components.

Idle speed adjustment - twin
carburettor engines

6 On twin carburettor installations, it is
necessary to balance the carburettors so that
the airflow through both is the same before
adjusting the idling speed. To do this a
vacuum gauge or carburettor synchronising
tool will be required.
7 Ensure that all electrical loads are switched
off and, where applicable, the choke is
pushed fully in; if the car does not have a
tachometer (rev counter), connect one to the
engine, following its manufacturer’s
instructions. Note the idle speed, and
compare it with that specified.
8 Remove the air cleaner assembly as
described in Chapter 4A.
9 If a vacuum gauge is being used,
disconnect the vacuum pipe and connect the
gauge to the vacuum pipe stub on the left-
hand carburettor (see illustrations).

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years  

1•17

1

28.4a  Typical idle speed adjusting screw

location (A) on the Solex PBISA

carburettors

28.4b  Idle speed adjusting screw (1) and

mixture screw (2) location on the 

Solex 32-34 Z2 carburettors

28.4c  Idle speed adjusting screw location

(1) on the Weber 32 IBSH carburettors

28.4d  Idle speed adjusting screw location (1) on the Weber 36 TLC carburettors

28.9a  Adjustment points on the Solex twin carburettor installation

1 Mixture screw
2 Mixture screw
3 Idle speed screw

4 Vacuum pipe
5 Vacuum pipe
6 Synchronising screw

a Vacuum gauge pipe
b Vacuum gauge pipe

10 With the engine idling, turn the idle speed
screw on the interconnecting linkage as
necessary until the engine speed is 1000 rpm.
11 Note the reading on the vacuum gage,
then transfer the gauge pipe to the vacuum
pipe stub on the right-hand carburettor. If the
reading is not as previously recorded, turn the
synchronising screw on the linkage as
necessary until an identical reading is shown
on the gauge.
12 Blip the throttle once or twice and check
that both vacuum readings are as previously
indicated.
13 Reset the idle speed by means of the idle
speed screw to obtain the specified idling
speed.
14 If a vacuum gauge is not available a
carburettor synchronising tool available at
most motor stores can be used instead.
These instruments are basically airflow meters
and should show identical readings when
moved from one carburettor venturi to the
other. Adjust the airflow through the
carburettor, by means of the synchronising
screw, until both carburettors show the same
reading on the tool. When correct, reset the
idling speed by means of the idle speed screw
to obtain the specified speed. Note that if one
of these instruments is being used, it will not
be necessary to disconnect the carburettor
vacuum pipes.
15 If the idle mixture CO content is not to be
adjusted, switch off the engine, disconnect
the instruments and refit all disturbed
components.

Idle mixture CO level adjustment

16 The idle mixture (exhaust gas CO level) is
set at the factory, and should require no
further adjustment. If, due to a change in
engine characteristics (carbon build-up, bore
wear etc) or after a major carburettor
overhaul, the mixture setting is lost, it can be
reset. Note, however, that an exhaust gas
analyser (CO meter) will be required to check

the mixture, in order to set it with the
necessary standard of accuracy; if this is not
available, the car must be taken to a Peugeot
dealer for the work to be carried out.
17 If an exhaust gas analyser is available,
follow its manufacturer’s instructions to check
the exhaust gas CO level. If adjustment is
required, it is made by turning the mixture
adjustment screw as necessary. As with the
idle speed screw, the mixture adjusting screw
is situated in various locations according to
carburettor type (see illustrations).The screw
may also be covered with a tamperproof plug
to prevent unnecessary adjustment. If so, use
a sharp instrument to hook out the plug.
18 Using a suitable flat-bladed screwdriver,
turn the mixture adjustment screw (in very
small increments) until the CO level is correct.
Turning the screw in (clockwise) weakens the
mixture and reduces the CO level, turning it

out will richen the mixture and increase the
CO level. On twin carburettor installations turn
both mixture adjustment screws by equal
amounts when making the adjustments.
19 When adjustments are complete,
disconnect any test equipment, and fit a new
tamperproof plug to the mixture adjustment
screw. Recheck the idle speed and, if
necessary, readjust.

Single-point fuel injection
models

20 Experienced home mechanics with a
considerable amount of skill and equipment
(including a good-quality tachometer and a
good-quality, carefully-calibrated exhaust gas
analyser) may be able to check the exhaust
CO level and the idle speed. However, if these
are found to be in need of adjustment, the car
must be taken to a suitably-equipped

1•18

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

28.17a  Typical idle mixture adjusting

screw location (B) on the 

Solex PBISA carburettors

A and B Vacuum gauge pipe connections

28.17b  Idle mixture adjusting screw

location (2) on the 

Weber IBSH carburettors

28.17c  Idle mixture adjusting screw

location (2) on the 

Weber 36 TLC carburettors

28.9b  Adjustment points on the Weber twin carburettor installation

1 Mixture screw
2 Mixture screw

3 Idle speed screw
4 Vacuum pipe

5 Vacuum pipe
6 Synchronising screw

Peugeot dealer, for diagnosis. On all single-
point fuel injection models, the idle speed and
mixture CO content is controlled by the
engine management ECU and cannot be
adjusted. If the idle speed and/or CO level is
incorrect, there is likely to be a fault in the
engine management system (see Chapter 4B).

Multi-point fuel injection models

Idle speed adjustment

21 Ensure that all electrical loads are
switched off. If the car does not have a
tachometer (rev counter), connect one to the
engine, following its manufacturer’s
instructions. Note the idle speed, and
compare it with that specified.
22 If adjustment is necessary, turn the air
screw (LE2-Jetronic) or idle speed adjustment
screw (LU2-Jetronic and Motronic M1.3) in
the throttle housing to obtain the specified
idling speed (see illustrations). If, on the LE2-
Jetronic system, the correct speed cannot be
obtained by means of the air screw, check
and adjust the throttle initial position as
described in Chapter 4C, Section 10.

Idle mixture CO level adjustment

Note: Adjustment of the idle mixture CO
content is only possible on the LE2-Jetronic
system. On The LU2-Jetronic and Motronic
M1.3 systems it is controlled by the fuel
injection system ECU.
23 The idle mixture (exhaust gas CO level) is
set at the factory, and should require no
further adjustment. If, due to a change in
engine characteristics (carbon build-up, bore
wear etc) or after a major overhaul, the
mixture setting is lost, it can be reset. Note,
however, that an exhaust gas analyser (CO
meter) will be required to check the mixture, in
order to set it with the necessary standard of
accuracy; if this is not available, the car must

be taken to a Peugeot dealer for the work to
be carried out.
24 If an exhaust gas analyser is available,
follow its manufacturer’s instructions to check
the exhaust gas CO level. If adjustment is
required, prise out the tamperproof cap on the
airflow sensor and use an Allen key to adjust
the mixture (see illustration). Turn the screw
in to richen the mixture and out to weaken it.
25 Blip the throttle two or three times and
then recheck that the idle speed and mixture
is correct.
26 When adjustments are complete,
disconnect the test equipment, and fit a new
tamperproof plug to the mixture adjustment
screw.

29 Emissions control systems

check

1

1 Details of the emissions control system
components are given in Chapter 4D.
2 Checking consists simply of a visual check
for obvious signs of damaged or leaking
hoses and joints. On engines incorporating a

breather filter in the oil filler cap, this should
be removed and cleaned, or renewed if it is
particularly contaminated.
3 Detailed checking and testing of the
evaporative and/or exhaust emissions
systems (as applicable) should be entrusted
to a Peugeot dealer.

30 Road test

1

Instruments and electrical
equipment

1 Check the operation of all instruments and
electrical equipment.
2 Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical
equipment in turn to check that it functions
properly.

Steering and suspension

3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
no unusual vibrations or noises.
5 Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering, or when driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

6 Check the performance of the engine,
clutch, transmission and driveshafts.
7 Listen for any unusual noises from the
engine, clutch and transmission.
8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years  

1•19

1

28.22a  Idle speed air screw adjustment on

the LE2-Jetronic fuel injection system

28.22b  Idle speed adjustment screw (7) on the LU2-Jetronic and

Motronic M1.3 fuel injection systems

28.24  Mixture adjustment screw (2)