Peugeot 405. Manual - part 70

Spare parts are available from many sources,

including maker’s appointed garages, accessory
shops, and motor factors. To be sure of
obtaining the correct parts, it may sometimes be
necessary to quote the vehicle identification
number. If possible, it can also be useful to take
the old parts along for positive identification.
Items such as starter motors and alternators
may be available under a service exchange
scheme - any parts returned should be clean.

Our advice regarding spare part sources is

as follows.

Officially-appointed garages

This is the best source of parts which are

peculiar to your car, and are not otherwise
generally available (eg badges, interior trim,
certain body panels, etc). It is also the only
place at which you should buy parts if the
vehicle is still under warranty. 

Accessory shops

These are good places to buy materials and

components needed for the maintenance of
your car (oil, air and fuel filters, spark plugs,
light bulbs, drivebelts, oils and greases, brake
pads, touch-up paint, etc). Parts like this sold
by a reputable shop are of the same standard
as those used by the car manufacturer.

Motor factors

Good factors will stock all the more

important components which wear out
comparatively quickly and can sometimes
supply individual components needed for the
overhaul of a larger assembly. They may also
handle work such as cylinder block reboring,
crankshaft regrinding and balancing, etc.

Tyre and exhaust specialists

These outlets may be independent or

members of a local or national chain. They
frequently offer competitive prices when
compared with a main dealer or local garage,
but it will pay to obtain several quotes before
making a decision. Also ask what ‘extras’ may
be added  to the quote - for instance, fitting a
new valve and balancing the wheel are both
often charged on top of the price of a new
tyre.

Other sources

Beware of parts or materials obtained from

market stalls, car boot sales or similar outlets.
Such items are not invariably sub-standard,
but there is little chance of compensation if
they do prove unsatisfactory. In the case of
safety-critical components such as brake
pads there is the risk not only of financial loss
but also of an accident causing injury or
death.

Buying Spare Parts

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Vehicle identification numbers

Modifications are a continuing and

unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture,
quite apart from major model changes. Spare
parts lists are compiled upon a numerical
basis, the individual vehicle identification
numbers being essential to correct identifi-
cation of the component concerned.

When ordering spare parts, always give as

much information as possible. Quote the car
model, year of manufacture, body and engine
numbers, as appropriate.

The  Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

plate is riveted to the top of the front cross
panel in the engine compartment. It is also
stamped into the right-hand side of the engine
bulkhead.

The Engine number is situated on the front

of the cylinder block, just below the cylinder
head. On TU engines it is near the left-hand
end of the engine, on XU10 engines it is mid-
way, and on XU5, XU7 and XU9 engines it is
on the right-hand end. Note: The first part of
the engine number gives the engine code - 
eg, “XU5”.

The Vehicle paint code is stamped into the

left-hand inner wing panel.

Other identification numbers or codes are

stamped on major items such as the gearbox,
final drive housing, distributor etc.

Location of Vehicle Identification Plates

1  Vehicle identification plate
2  Vehicle identification number
3  Vehicle paint colour code

Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work

is carried out on the car or its components, it
is necessary to observe the following
procedures and instructions. This will assist in
carrying out the operation efficiently and to a
professional standard of workmanship.

Joint mating faces and gaskets

When separating components at their

mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.

Where a gasket is used between the mating

faces of two components, ensure that it is
renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless
otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make
sure that the mating faces are clean and dry,
with all traces of old gasket removed. When
cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not
likely to score or damage the face, and remove
any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file.

Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned

with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.

Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes

are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.

Oil seals

Oil seals can be removed by levering them

out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar tool. Alternatively, a number of self-
tapping screws may be screwed into the seal,
and these used as a purchase for pliers or
similar in order to pull the seal free.

Whenever an oil seal is removed from its

working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.

The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily

damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original
sealing surface of the component cannot be
restored, and the manufacturer has not made
provision for slight relocation of the seal
relative to the sealing surface, the component
should be renewed.

Protect the lips of the seal from any surface

which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.

Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be

fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.

Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the

appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is

unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with
its face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).

Screw threads and fastenings

Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a

common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.

Studs are usually removed by locking two

nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a stud extractor. Always ensure that a
blind tapped hole is completely free from oil,
grease, water or other fluid before installing
the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause
the housing to crack due to the hydraulic
action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.

When tightening a castellated nut to accept

a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never
slacken the nut to align the split pin hole,
unless stated in the repair procedure.

When checking or retightening a nut or bolt

to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.

For some screw fastenings, notably

cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench
settings are no longer specified for the latter
stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being
called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque
wrench setting will be applied to the
bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed
by one or more stages of tightening through
specified angles.

Locknuts, locktabs and washers

Any fastening which will rotate against a

component or housing during tightening
should always have a washer between it and
the relevant component or housing.

Spring or split washers should always be

renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.

Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-

critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose their

effectiveness after long periods of use, and
should be renewed as a matter of course.

Split pins must always be replaced with

new ones of the correct size for the hole.

When thread-locking compound is found

on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.

Special tools

Some repair procedures in this manual

entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer’s special tools are described,
and are shown in use. In some instances,
where no alternative is possible, it has been
necessary to resort to the use of a
manufacturer’s tool, and this has been done
for reasons of safety as well as the efficient
completion of the repair operation. Unless you
are highly-skilled and have a thorough
understanding of the procedures described,
never attempt to bypass the use of any
special tool when the procedure described
specifies its use. Not only is there a very great
risk of personal injury, but expensive damage
could be caused to the components involved.

Environmental considerations

When disposing of used engine oil, brake

fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department, or the
National Rivers Authority, for further advice.

With the universal tightening-up of

legislation regarding the emission of environ-
mentally-harmful substances from motor
vehicles, most current vehicles have
tamperproof devices fitted to the main
adjustment points of the fuel system. These
devices are primarily designed to prevent
unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air
mixture, with the chance of a consequent
increase in toxic emissions. If such devices
are encountered during servicing or overhaul,
they should, wherever possible, be renewed
or refitted in accordance with the vehicle
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.

REF•4

General Repair Procedures

Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
bank, call this
number free.

The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit

should only be used for changing the
roadwheels - see “Wheel changing” at the
front of this manual. When carrying out any
other kind of work, raise the vehicle using a
hydraulic (or “trolley”) jack, and always
supplement the jack with axle stands
positioned under the vehicle jacking points.

When using a hydraulic jack or axle stands,

always position the jack head or axle stand
head under, or adjacent to one of the relevant
wheel changing jacking points  (see
illustration).

To raise the front of the vehicle, position the

jack with an interposed block of wood
underneath the centre of the front subframe.
Alternatively, the vehicle can be jacked under
the front crossmember, but a block of wood
100 x 100 x 780 mm will be required between
the jack and the crossmember. Do not jack
the vehicle under the sump, or any of the
steering or suspension components.

The procedure for raising the rear of the

vehicle is as described for the front, but place
the jack under either the rear axle tube, for
which a shaped block of wood approximately
100 mm long will be required, or under the
rear panel using a 150 x 150 x 1200 mm block
of wood. Do not attempt to raise the vehicle
with the jack positioned under the spare
wheel, as the vehicle floor will almost certainly
be damaged.

The jack supplied with the vehicle located

in the jacking points in the ridges on the
underside of the sills. Ensure that the jack
head is correctly engaged before attempting
to raise the vehicle.

Never work under, around, or near a raised

vehicle, unless it is adequately supported in at
least two places.

Jacking and Vehicle Support

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Radio/cassette unit Anti-theft System - Precaution

The radio/cassette unit fitted to later

models as standard equipment by Peugeot is
equipped with a built-in security code, to
deter thieves. If the power source to the unit is
cut, the anti-theft system will activate. Even if
the power source is immediately reconnected,
the radio/cassette unit will not function until
the correct security code has been entered.
Therefore if you do not know the correct
security code for the unit, do not disconnect

the battery negative lead, or remove the
radio/cassette unit from the vehicle.

To enter the security code, press the

“on/off” button; the unit display will show
“CODE”.The security code can then be
entered using the buttons 1 to 6 on the unit.
The unit will be activated automatically if the
correct code is entered.

If the incorrect code is entered, the unit will

lock, and the word “SECURITY” will be

displayed for 2 minutes. After 2 minutes, it will
be possible to enter a code again. If 3 wrong
codes are entered, the unit will lock for 2 hours.
To clear the locking function, leave the unit and
the ignition switched on during this period.

If the security code is lost or forgotten, seek

the advice of your Peugeot dealer. On
presentation of proof of ownership, a Peugeot
dealer will be able to provide you with a new
security code.

Vehicle jacking points

Introduction

A selection of good tools is a fundamental

requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.
For the owner who does not possess any,
their purchase will prove a considerable
expense, offsetting some of the savings made
by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that
the tools purchased meet the relevant national
safety standards and are of good quality, they
will last for many years and prove an
extremely worthwhile investment.

To help the average owner to decide which

tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed in this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings: Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with
the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, and
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be
built up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools from the Special category when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.

Maintenance 
and minor repair tool kit

The tools given in this list should be

considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the
other); although more expensive than open-
ended ones, they do give the advantages of
both types of spanner.
M Combination spanners:

Metric - 8 to 19 mm inclusive

M Adjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx.)

M Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) - 

petrol models

M Spark plug gap adjustment tool - petrol 

models

M Set of feeler gauges

M Brake bleed nipple spanner

M Screwdrivers:

Flat blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
Cross blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia

M Combination pliers

M Hacksaw (junior)

M Tyre pump

M Tyre pressure gauge

M Oil can

M Oil filter removal tool

M Fine emery cloth

M Wire brush (small)

M Funnel (medium size)

Repair and overhaul tool kit

These tools are virtually essential for

anyone undertaking any major repairs to a
motor vehicle, and are additional to those
given in the Maintenance and minor repair list.
Included in this list is a comprehensive set of
sockets. Although these are expensive, they
will be found invaluable as they are so
versatile - particularly if various drives are
included in the set. We recommend the half-
inch square-drive type, as this can be used
with most proprietary torque wrenches. 

The tools in this list will sometimes need to

be supplemented by tools from the Special list:
M Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in

previous list (including Torx sockets)

M Reversible ratchet drive (for use with 

sockets)

M Extension piece, 250 mm (for use with 

sockets)

M Universal joint (for use with sockets)

M Torque wrench (for use with sockets)

M Self-locking grips

M Ball pein hammer

M Soft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or 

rubber)

M Screwdrivers:

Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby), 
and narrow (electrician’s) types
Cross blade – Long & sturdy, and short 
(chubby) types

M Pliers:

Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician’s)
Circlip (internal and external)

M Cold chisel - 25 mm

M Scriber

M Scraper

M Centre-punch

M Pin punch

M Hacksaw

M Brake hose clamp

M Brake/clutch bleeding kit

M Selection of twist drills

M Steel rule/straight-edge

M Allen keys (inc. splined/Torx type)

M Selection of files

M Wire brush

M Axle stands

M Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)

M Light with extension lead

REF•6

Tools and Working Facilities

Sockets and reversible ratchet drive

Clutch plate alignment set

Piston ring compressor

Spline bit set

Valve spring compressor