Peugeot 405. Manual - part 46

a socket and extension bar, slacken and
remove the driveshaft retaining nut.
Alternatively, a tool can be fabricated from
two lengths of steel strip (one long, one short)
and a nut and bolt; the nut and bolt forming
the pivot of a forked tool. Bolt the tool to the
hub using two wheel bolts, and hold the tool
to prevent the hub from rotating as the
driveshaft nut is undone.
5 Unscrew the two bolts securing the brake
caliper/mounting bracket assembly to the
swivel hub, and slide the caliper assembly off
the disc. Recover the mounting plate, where
applicable. Using a piece of wire or string, tie
the caliper to the front suspension coil spring,
to avoid placing any strain on the hydraulic
brake hose.
6 Use chalk or paint to mark the relationship
of the disc to the hub, then remove the
screw(s) securing the brake disc to the hub,
and remove the disc. If it is tight, lightly tap its
rear face with a hide or plastic mallet.
7 Where applicable, slacken and remove the
bolt securing the wiring/hose retaining
bracket to the top of the hub carrier.
8 To ease removal of the hub carrier, fit
spring compressor tools to the coil spring on
the strut, in accordance with the
manufacturer’s instructions, and lightly
tighten the compressors. Note that the hub
carrier can be removed without using spring
compressors, but difficulty may be
encountered disconnecting hub carrier from
the lower end of the strut.
9 Unscrew the bolt securing the anti-roll bar
drop link to the lower arm.

10 Slacken and partially unscrew the track
rod end nut (unscrew the nut as far as the end
of the threads on the balljoint to prevent
damage to the threads as the joint is
released), then release the balljoint using a
balljoint separator tool. Remove the nut.
11 Similarly, slacken the lower balljoint nut
(securing the hub carrier to the lower arm),
then release the balljoint using a separator
tool (see illustration). Remove the nut.
12 Undo the nut and withdraw the hub
carrier-to-suspension strut clamp bolt, noting
that the bolt fits from the rear of the vehicle
(see illustration).
13 Where applicable, tighten the compressor
tools, and compress the spring sufficiently to
enable the lower end of the strut to be
disconnected from the hub carrier.
14 Insert a lever into the slot in the hub
carrier, and spread the slot until the hub
carrier can be released from the strut.

15 Free the hub carrier assembly from the
end of the strut, then release it from the outer
constant velocity joint splines, and remove it
from the vehicle. If necessary, tap the end of
the driveshaft (using a soft-faced mallet) to
free it from the hub carrier. Support the free,
outboard end of the driveshaft by suspending
it using wire or string - do not allow the
driveshaft to hang down under its own weight.

Refitting

16 Where applicable, fit the spring
compressor tools in position as during
removal, ensure that the driveshaft outer
constant velocity joint and hub splines are
clean, then slide the hub fully onto the
driveshaft splines.
17 Slide the hub carrier assembly fully onto
the suspension strut, aligning the slot in the
hub carrier with the lug on the base of the
strut. Also ensure that the stop boss on the
strut is in contact with the top surface of the
hub carrier (see illustration). Release the tool
used to spread the hub carrier slot.
18 Insert the hub carrier-to-suspension strut
clamp bolt from the rear side of the strut, then
fit a new nut to the clamp bolt, and tighten it
to the specified torque.
19 Two types of hub carrier may be fitted.
The later type can be identified from the hole
at the top of the assembly (see illustration).
When refitting a later type hub carrier,
proceed as follows.

a) After tightening the clamp bolt, measure

the gap between the hub carrier clamp
lugs (see illustration). The gap must not
be less than specified. If the gap is less
than specified, proceed as follows.

b) Check the condition of the lower end of

the strut. If the strut cylinder has been
crushed, the shock absorber will be
damaged, and the strut must be renewed.

c) If the strut is not damaged, but the gap

between the clamp lugs is still less than
specified, renew the hub carrier.

Suspension and steering  10•3

2.12  Hub carrier-to-suspension strut

clamp nut (arrowed)

2.19b  Gap (A) on later type hub carrier

clamp lugs must not be less than 6.5 mm

2.19a  Later type hub carrier with 

identification hole (arrowed)

2.17  Lug (1) and stop boss (2) 

on lower end of strut

2.11  Release the lower balljoint using a

balljoint separator tool

2.3  Withdraw the R-clip from the

driveshaft nut locking cap

10

To spread the slot in the hub
carrier, engage an 8.0 mm
Allen key or hexagon bit in
the slot, then turn the key/bit
to spread the slot.

20 Align the balljoint with the lower arm, then
fit the balljoint nut, and tighten to the specified
torque.
21 Engage the track rod balljoint in the hub
carrier, then fit a new retaining nut and tighten
it to the specified torque.
22 Refit the bolt securing the anti-roll bar
drop link to the lower arm, and tighten to the
specified torque.
23 Refit the brake disc to the hub, ensuring
that the marks made before removal are
aligned, then refit the brake caliper/mounting
bracket. Apply suitable locking fluid to the
caliper/mounting bracket bolts then, where
applicable refit the mounting plate, ensuring
that the plate is fitted so that its bend curves
away from the caliper body, and refit the
bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specified
torque.
24 Lubricate the inner face and threads of
the driveshaft retaining nut with clean engine
oil, and refit it to the end of the driveshaft. Use
the method employed on removal to prevent
the hub from rotating, and tighten the
driveshaft retaining nut to the specified torque
(see Chapter 8). Check that the hub rotates
freely.
25 Engage the locking cap with the
driveshaft nut so that one of its cut-outs is
aligned with the driveshaft hole. Secure the
cap with the R-clip.
26 Where applicable, slacken and remove
the spring compressor tools.
27 Where applicable, refit the ABS wheel
sensor as described in Chapter 9.
28 Where applicable, refit the wiring retaining
bracket to the top of the hub carrier, and
tighten its retaining bolt securely. Ensure that
the earth lead is in position beneath the bolt,
where applicable.
29 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground and tighten the
roadwheel bolts to the specified torque.

3

Front hub bearings - renewal

4

Note: The bearing is a sealed, pre-adjusted
and pre-lubricated, double-row roller type,
and is intended to last the car’s entire service
life without maintenance or attention. Never
overtighten the driveshaft nut beyond the
specified torque wrench setting in an attempt
to “adjust” the bearing.
Note: A press will be required to dismantle
and rebuild the assembly; if such a tool is not
available, a large bench vice and spacers
(such as large sockets) will serve as an
adequate substitute. The bearing’s inner races
are an interference fit on the hub; if the inner
race remains on the hub when it is pressed
out of the hub carrier, a knife-edged bearing
puller will be required to remove it.
1 Remove the hub carrier assembly as
described in Section 2.
2 Support the hub carrier securely on blocks

or in a vice. Using a tubular spacer which
bears only on the inner end of the hub flange,
press the hub flange out of the bearing. If the
bearing’s outboard inner race remains on the
hub, remove it using a bearing puller (see note
above).
3 Extract the bearing retaining circlip from the
inner end of the hub carrier assembly (see
illustration).
4 Where necessary, refit the inner race back
in position over the ball cage, and securely
support the inner face of the hub carrier.
Using a tubular spacer which bears only on
the inner race, press the complete bearing
assembly out of the hub carrier.
5 Thoroughly clean the hub and hub carrier,
removing all traces of dirt and grease, and
polish away any burrs or raised edges which
might hinder reassembly. Check both for
cracks or any other signs of wear or damage,
and renew them if necessary. Renew the
circlip, regardless of its apparent condition.
6 On reassembly, apply a light film of oil to
the bearing outer race and hub flange shaft, to
aid installation of the bearing.
7 Securely support the hub carrier, and locate
the bearing in the hub. Press the bearing fully
into position, ensuring that it enters the hub
squarely, using a tubular spacer which bears
only on the bearing outer race.
8 Once the bearing is correctly seated,
secure the bearing in position with the new
circlip, ensuring that it is correctly located in
the groove in the hub carrier.
9 Securely support the outer face of the hub
flange, and locate the hub carrier bearing
inner race over the end of the hub flange.

Press the bearing onto the hub, using a
tubular spacer which bears only on the inner
race of the hub bearing, until it seats against
the hub shoulder. Check that the hub flange
rotates freely, and wipe off any excess oil or
grease.
10 Refit the hub carrier assembly as
described in Section 2.

4

Front suspension strut -
removal and refitting

3

Removal

Note: All Nyloc nuts disturbed on removal
must be renewed as a matter of course. These
nuts have threads which are pre-coated with
locking compound (this is only effective once).
Note: It is recommended that a coil spring
compressor tool is used during the removal
and refitting of the strut. The strut can be
removed without a spring compressor, but
because of the long length of the strut with the
spring in a released state, it is difficult to
separate the hub carrier from the strut, and
unacceptable strain could be exerted on the
driveshaft joint. Do not attempt to use a make-
shift method of compressing the spring, as
there is a risk of component damage and
personal injury.
1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the
handbrake, then jack up the front of the
vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the
appropriate roadwheel.
2 Working in the engine compartment, were
applicable remove the plastic cover from the
strut top mounting, then slacken but do not
remove the two strut top mounting nuts (see
illustration).
3 Where applicable, unclip any wiring and/or
hoses from the strut.
4 Unscrew the bolt securing the anti-roll bar
drop link to the strut.
5 Undo the nut and withdraw the hub carrier-
to-suspension strut clamp bolt, noting that the
bolt fits from the rear of the strut (see
illustration). Discard the nut - a new one must
be used on refitting.
6 To ease removal of the hub carrier, fit spring
compressor tools to the coil spring on the strut,

10•4 Suspension and steering

3.3  Front hub bearing retaining circlip

(arrowed)

4.5  Unscrewing the hub carrier-to-

suspension strut clamp bolt

4.2  Suspension strut top mounting nuts

(arrowed)

in accordance with the manufacturer’s
instructions, and lightly tighten the
compressors. Note that the strut can be
removed without using spring compressors, but
difficulty may be encountered disconnecting
hub carrier from the lower end of the strut.
7 Insert a lever into the slot in the hub carrier,
and spread the slot until the hub carrier can
be released from the strut.

8 Free the hub carrier from the strut, then
remove the two strut top mounting nuts, and
withdraw the strut from under the wheel arch.

Refitting

9 Where applicable, fit the coil spring
compressors as during removal, then
manoeuvre the strut assembly into position.
Feed the top mounting studs through the
holes in the body, and fit the mounting nuts.
10 Engage the lower end of the strut with the
hub carrier. Align the slot in the hub carrier
with the lug on the base of the strut. Also
ensure that the stop bosses on the strut are in
contact with the top surface of the hub carrier.
Release the tool used to spread the hub
carrier slot.
11 Insert the hub carrier-to-suspension strut
clamp bolt from the rear side of the strut, then
fit a new nut to the clamp bolt, and tighten it
to the specified torque.

12 Refit the bolt securing the anti-roll bar
drop link to the strut.
13 Tighten the two strut top mounting nuts to
the specified torque.
14 Where applicable, carefully slacken and
then remove the spring compressors.
15 Where applicable, clip any wiring/hoses
into position on the strut.
16 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground and tighten the
roadwheel bolts to the specified torque.

5

Front suspension strut -
overhaul

3

Note: The components encountered may vary
in detail, but the principles described in the
following paragraphs are equally applicable to
all models. Make a careful note of the fitted
positions of all components before
dismantling.
1 With the strut removed as described in
Section 4, clean the exterior of the unit, then
mount it in a soft-jawed vice.

2 If not already done, fit coil spring
compressors in accordance with the
manufacturer’s instructions, and compress
the spring until the pressure on the top
mounting is relieved.
3 Unscrew the top mounting nut. Use a ring
spanner to unscrew the nut, and counterhold
the piston rod using a 7.0 mm Allen key (see
illustration).
4 Remove the nut and recover the washer,
then lift off the cupped washer, mounting
plate, rubber buffer, and the two dished
plates.
5 Lift off the upper spring seat.
6 Withdraw the washer and the rubber gaiter.
7 Remove the bump stop.
8 Remove the coil spring. If the spring is to be
renewed, remove the compressors, otherwise
leave them in position for reassembly.
9 Inspect the strut for signs of leakage from
the piston rod seal. With the strut held
vertically, operate the piston over its full range
of movement in both directions, checking that
the resistance is even and firm. If the
resistance is weak or jerky, if there is any fluid
seepage, or if there is any damage to the strut
or corrosion of the piston rod, then strut must
be renewed. Note that struts should always
be renewed in pairs. At the same time, check
the coil spring for condition, and any signs of
distortion or damage. If spring renewal is
necessary, again note that both front springs
should be renewed as a pair.
10 Reassemble the strut using a reversal of
the dismantling procedure, and following the
accompanying illustration sequence (see
illustrations 5.10a to 5.10l).

Suspension and steering  10•5

5.10b  . . . making sure the lower end of the

spring locates against the stop (arrowed)

5.10e  . . . and the washer . . .

5.10c  Refit the bump stop . . .

5.10d  . . . followed by the rubber gaiter . . .

5.10a  Refit the coil spring, with the

compressors in position . . .

5.3  Counterhold the piston rod and

unscrew the top mounting nut

10

To spread the slot in the hub
carrier, engage an 8.0 mm
Allen key or hexagon bit in
the slot, then turn the
key/bit to spread the slot.

Warning: Before attempting to
dismantle the front suspension
strut, a suitable tool to hold the
coil spring in compression must

be obtained. Adjustable coil spring
compressors are readily-available, and are
recommended for this operation. Any
attempt to dismantle the strut without
such a tool is likely to result in damage or
personal injury.

6

Front suspension 
lower arm - 
removal, overhaul and refitting

4

Removal

Note: All Nyloc nuts disturbed on removal
must be renewed as a matter of course. These
nuts have threads which are pre-coated with
locking compound (this is only effective once).
A balljoint separator tool will be required for
this operation.
Note: Two different types of hub carrier
assembly may be fitted, depending on model.
The earlier hub carriers are solid. The later hub
carriers are hollow, and can be identified from
the hole at the top of the assembly (see
illustration 2.19a). When refitting note that
the torque wrench settings differ for the two
types of hub carrier (see “Specifications”).
Modified lower arms are fitted in conjunction
with the later hub carriers, and the early and
late type components are not interchangeable

- if components are renewed, make sure that
the correct new parts are obtained.
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove the
relevant roadwheel.
2 Remove the bolt securing the anti-roll bar
drop link to the lower arm (see illustration).
3 Slacken and partially unscrew the lower
balljoint nut (unscrew the nut as far as the end
of the threads on the balljoint to prevent
damage to the threads as the joint is
released), then release the balljoint using a
balljoint separator tool. Remove the nut.
4 Counterhold the nut, and unscrew the lower
arm front pivot bolt (see illustration).
Withdraw the bolt.
5 Unscrew the two lower arm rear securing
nuts (see illustration).
6 Working at the rear of the subframe, loosen
the two subframe rear mounting bolts to allow
the rear of the subframe to be lowered

sufficiently for the lower arm rear clamp studs
to clear the subframe (approximately 10.0
mm). Note that the subframe bolts may be
covered by plastic plugs on certain models
(see illustration 6.5).
7 Withdraw the lower arm.

6.2  Remove the bolt securing the 

anti-roll bar drop link to the lower arm

5.10l  . . . and the plain washer and nut

6.4  Lower arm front pivot nut 

(arrowed)

6.5  Lower arm rear securing nuts (A) 

and subframe rear mounting bolt (B)

10•6 Suspension and steering

5.10f  . . . fit the upper spring seat, 

followed by . . .

5.10h  . . . and upper dished plates . . .

5.10k  . . . the cupped washer . . .

5.10j  . . . the mounting plate . . .

5.10i  . . . the rubber buffer . . .

5.10g  . . . the lower . . .