Peugeot 205. Manual - part 52

 

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Peugeot 205. Manual - part 52

 

 

REF•6

Tools and working facilities

Introduction

A selection of good tools is a fundamental

requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.
For the owner who does not possess any,
their purchase will prove a considerable
expense, offsetting some of the savings made
by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that
the tools purchased meet the relevant national
safety standards and are of good quality, they
will last for many years and prove an
extremely worthwhile investment.

To help the average owner to decide which

tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed in this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings: Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair and overhaul
, and Special. Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with
the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, and
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be
built up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools from the Special category when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.

Maintenance 
and minor repair tool kit

The tools given in this list should be

considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the
other); although more expensive than open-
ended ones, they do give the advantages of
both types of spanner.
Combination spanners:

Metric - 8 to 19 mm inclusive

Adjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx.)

Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) - 

petrol models

Spark plug gap adjustment tool - petrol 

models

Set of feeler gauges

Brake bleed nipple spanner

Screwdrivers:

Flat blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
Cross blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia

Combination pliers

Hacksaw (junior)

Tyre pump

Tyre pressure gauge

Oil can

Oil filter removal tool

Fine emery cloth

Wire brush (small)

Funnel (medium size)

Repair and overhaul tool kit

These tools are virtually essential for

anyone undertaking any major repairs to a
motor vehicle, and are additional to those
given in the Maintenance and minor repair list.
Included in this list is a comprehensive set of
sockets. Although these are expensive, they
will be found invaluable as they are so
versatile - particularly if various drives are
included in the set. We recommend the half-
inch square-drive type, as this can be used
with most proprietary torque wrenches. 

The tools in this list will sometimes need to

be supplemented by tools from the Special list:
Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in

previous list (including Torx sockets)

Reversible ratchet drive (for use with 

sockets)

Extension piece, 250 mm (for use with 

sockets)

Universal joint (for use with sockets)

Torque wrench (for use with sockets)

Self-locking grips

Ball pein hammer

Soft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or 

rubber)

Screwdrivers:

Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby), 
and narrow (electrician’s) types
Cross blade – Long & sturdy, and short 
(chubby) types

Pliers:

Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician’s)
Circlip (internal and external)

Cold chisel - 25 mm

Scriber

Scraper

Centre-punch

Pin punch

Hacksaw

Brake hose clamp

Brake/clutch bleeding kit

Selection of twist drills

Steel rule/straight-edge

Allen keys (inc. splined/Torx type)

Selection of files

Wire brush

Axle stands

Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)

Light with extension lead

Sockets and reversible ratchet drive

Clutch plate alignment set

Piston ring compressor

Spline bit set

Valve spring compressor

Tools and working facilities

REF•7

REF

Special tools

The tools in this list are those which are not

used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy
many of these tools. Where this is the case,
you could consider clubbing together with
friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a
joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against
a deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large
range of special tools for hire at modest rates.

The following list contains only those tools

and instruments freely available to the public,
and not those special tools produced by the
vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer
network. You will find occasional references
to these manufacturers’ special tools in the
text of this manual. Generally, an alternative
method of doing the job without the vehicle
manufacturers’ special tool is given. However,
sometimes there is no alternative to using
them. Where this is the case and the relevant
tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will
have to entrust the work to a dealer.
Valve spring compressor

Valve grinding tool

Piston ring compressor

Piston ring removal/installation tool

Cylinder bore hone

Balljoint separator

Coil spring compressors (where applicable)

Two/three-legged hub and bearing puller

Impact screwdriver

Micrometer and/or vernier calipers

Dial gauge

Stroboscopic timing light

Dwell angle meter/tachometer

Universal electrical multi-meter

Cylinder compression gauge

Hand-operated vacuum pump and gauge

Clutch plate alignment set

Brake shoe steady spring cup removal tool

Bush and bearing removal/installation set

Stud extractors

Tap and die set

Lifting tackle

Trolley jack

Buying tools

Reputable motor accessory shops and

superstores often offer excellent quality tools
at discount prices, so it pays to shop around.

Remember, you don’t have to buy the most

expensive items on the shelf, but it is always
advisable to steer clear of the very cheap
tools. Beware of ‘bargains’ offered on market
stalls or at car boot sales. There are plenty of
good tools around at reasonable prices, but
always aim to purchase items which meet the
relevant national safety standards. If in doubt,
ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for
advice before making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of tools

Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is

necessary to keep the tools in a clean and
serviceable condition. After use, always wipe
off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a
clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.
Never leave them lying around after they have
been used. A simple tool rack on the garage
or workshop wall for items such as
screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store
all normal spanners and sockets in a metal
box. Any measuring instruments, gauges,
meters, etc, must be carefully stored where
they cannot be damaged or become rusty.

Take a little care when tools are used.

Hammer heads inevitably become marked,
and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their
blades from time to time. A little timely
attention with emery cloth or a file will soon
restore items like this to a good finish.

Working facilities

Not to be forgotten when discussing tools

is the workshop itself. If anything more than
routine maintenance is to be carried out, a
suitable working area becomes essential.

It is appreciated that many an owner-

mechanic is forced by circumstances to
remove an engine or similar item without the
benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done
this, any repairs should always be done under
the cover of a roof.

Wherever possible, any dismantling should

be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at
a suitable working height.

Any workbench needs a vice; one with a jaw

opening of 100 mm is suitable for most jobs.
As mentioned previously, some clean dry
storage space is also required for tools, as well
as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up
paints etc, which become necessary.

Another item which may be required, and

which has a much more general usage, is an
electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8
mm. This, together with a good range of twist
drills, is virtually essential for fitting
accessories.

Last, but not least, always keep a supply of

old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags
available, and try to keep any working area as
clean as possible.

Stroboscopic timing light 

Stud extractor set

Compression tester

Dial test indicator (“dial gauge”)

Micrometer set

REF•8

MOT test checks

This is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test.

Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the same
standard as the professional MOT tester. However, working through
the following checks will enable you to identify any problem areas
before submitting the vehicle for the test.

Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the tester

has discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of such
discretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative or
friend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If the
vehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester may
be more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle is
scruffy and apparently neglected.

It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here,

based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standards
are becoming increasingly stringent, although there are some
exemptions for older vehicles. For full details obtain a copy of the Haynes
publication Pass the MOT! (available from stockists of Haynes manuals).

An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks.

The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:

Handbrake

M Test the operation of the handbrake.
Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicates
incorrect brake or cable adjustment.
M Check that the handbrake cannot be
released by tapping the lever sideways. Check
the security of the lever mountings.

Footbrake

M Depress the brake pedal and check that it
does not creep down to the floor, indicating a
master cylinder fault. Release the pedal, wait
a few seconds, then depress it again. If the
pedal travels nearly to the floor before firm
resistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair is
necessary. If the pedal feels spongy, there is
air in the hydraulic system which must be
removed by bleeding.

M Check that the brake pedal is secure and in
good condition. Check also for signs of fluid
leaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, which
would indicate failed seals in the brake master
cylinder.
M Check the servo unit (when applicable) by
operating the brake pedal several times, then
keeping the pedal depressed and starting the
engine. As the engine starts, the pedal will
move down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose or
the servo itself may be faulty.

Steering wheel and column 

M Examine the steering wheel for fractures or
looseness of the hub, spokes or rim. 
M Move the steering wheel from side to side
and then up and down. Check that the 
steering wheel is not loose on the column,
indicating wear or a loose retaining nut.
Continue moving the steering wheel as before,
but also turn it slightly from left to right. 
M Check that the steering wheel is not loose
on the column, and that there is no abnormal

movement of the steering wheel, indicating
wear in the column support bearings or 
couplings.

Windscreen and mirrors 

M The windscreen must be free of cracks or
other significant damage within the driver’s
field of view. (Small stone chips are
acceptable.) Rear view mirrors must be
secure, intact, and capable of being adjusted.

1

Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT

1

Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S
SEAT

2

Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
ON THE GROUND

3

Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
RAISED AND THE
WHEELS FREE TO
TURN

4

Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S
EXHAUST EMISSION
SYSTEM

MOT test checks

REF•9

REF

Seat belts and seats 

Note: The following checks are applicable to
all seat belts, front and rear.

M Examine the webbing of all the belts
(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious
fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten
each belt to check the buckles. If applicable,
check the retracting mechanism. Check the
security of all seat belt mountings accessible
from inside the vehicle.
M The front seats themselves must be
securely attached and the backrests must
lock in the upright position.

Doors 

M Both front doors must be able to be opened
and closed from outside and inside, and must
latch securely when closed.

Vehicle identification

M Number plates must be in good condition,
secure and legible, with letters and numbers
correctly spaced – spacing at (A) should be
twice that at (B).

M The VIN plate and/or homologation plate
must be legible.

Electrical equipment

M Switch on the ignition and check the 
operation of the horn.
M Check the windscreen washers and wipers,
examining the wiper blades; renew damaged
or perished blades. Also check the operation
of the stop-lights.

M Check the operation of the sidelights and
number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors
must be secure, clean and undamaged. 
M Check the operation and alignment of the
headlights. The headlight reflectors must not
be tarnished and the lenses must be
undamaged.
M Switch on the ignition and check the 
operation of the direction indicators (including
the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard
warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and
stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it
does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the
rear light cluster.
M Check the operation of the rear foglight(s),
including the warning light on the instrument
panel or in the switch.

Footbrake

M Examine the master cylinder, brake pipes
and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings, 
corrosion or other damage.  

M The fluid reservoir must be secure and the
fluid level must be between the upper (A) and
lower (B) markings.

M Inspect both front brake flexible hoses for
cracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn the
steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the
hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any
part of the steering or suspension mechanism.
With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check
the hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.

Steering and suspension

M Have your assistant turn the steering wheel
from side to side slightly, up to the point where
the steering gear just begins to transmit this
movement to the roadwheels. Check for
excessive free play between the steering
wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear or
insecurity of the steering column joints, the
column-to-steering gear coupling, or the
steering gear itself.
M Have your assistant turn the steering wheel
more vigorously in each direction, so that the
roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,
examine all the steering joints, linkages,
fittings and attachments. Renew any
component that shows signs of wear or 
damage. On vehicles with power steering,
check the security and condition of the 
steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.
M Check that the vehicle is standing level,
and at approximately the correct ride height.

Shock absorbers

M Depress each corner of the vehicle in turn,
then release it. The vehicle should rise and
then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle
continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber
is defective. A shock absorber which has
seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.

2

Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE
GROUND

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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