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Peugeot 205. Manual - part 51

REF•2

Conversion factors

Length (distance)

Inches (in)

x 25.4

= Millimetres (mm)

x 0.0394 = Inches (in)

Feet (ft)

x 0.305

= Metres (m)

x 3.281 = Feet (ft)

Miles

x 1.609

= Kilometres (km)

x 0.621 = Miles

Volume (capacity)

Cubic inches (cu in; in

)

x 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm

)

x 0.061 = Cubic inches (cu in; in

)

Imperial pints (Imp pt)

x 0.568 = Litres (l)

x 1.76

= Imperial pints (Imp pt)

Imperial quarts (Imp qt)

x 1.137 = Litres (l)

x 0.88

= Imperial quarts (Imp qt)

Imperial quarts (Imp qt)

x 1.201 = US quarts (US qt)

x 0.833 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)

US quarts (US qt)

x 0.946 = Litres (l)

x 1.057 = US quarts (US qt)

Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

x 4.546 = Litres (l)

x 0.22

= Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

x 1.201 = US gallons (US gal)

x 0.833 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

US gallons (US gal)

x 3.785 = Litres (l)

x 0.264 = US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight)

Ounces (oz)

x 28.35 = Grams (g)

x 0.035 = Ounces (oz)

Pounds (lb)

x 0.454 = Kilograms (kg)

x 2.205 = Pounds (lb)

Force

Ounces-force (ozf; oz)

x 0.278 = Newtons (N)

x 3.6

= Ounces-force (ozf; oz)

Pounds-force (lbf; lb)

x 4.448 = Newtons (N)

x 0.225 = Pounds-force (lbf; lb)

Newtons (N)

x 0.1

= Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)

x 9.81

= Newtons (N)

Pressure

Pounds-force per square inch

x 0.070 = Kilograms-force per square

x 14.223 = Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; lbf/in

; lb/in

)

centimetre (kgf/cm

; kg/cm

)

(psi; lbf/in

; lb/in

)

Pounds-force per square inch

x 0.068 = Atmospheres (atm)

x 14.696 = Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; lbf/in

; lb/in

)

(psi; lbf/in

; lb/in

)

Pounds-force per square inch

x 0.069 = Bars

x 14.5

= Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; lbf/in

; lb/in

)

(psi; lbf/in

; lb/in

)

Pounds-force per square inch

x 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa)

x 0.145 = Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; lbf/in

; lb/in

)

(psi; lbf/in

; lb/in

)

Kilopascals (kPa)

x 0.01

= Kilograms-force per square

x 98.1

= Kilopascals (kPa)

centimetre (kgf/cm

; kg/cm

)

Millibar (mbar)

x 100

= Pascals (Pa)

x 0.01

= Millibar (mbar)

Millibar (mbar)

x 0.0145 = Pounds-force per square inch

x 68.947 = Millibar (mbar)

(psi; lbf/in

; lb/in

)

Millibar (mbar)

x 0.75

= Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)

x 1.333 = Millibar (mbar)

Millibar (mbar)

x 0.401 = Inches of water (inH

x 2.491 = Millibar (mbar)

Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)

x 0.535 = Inches of water (inH

x 1.868 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)

Inches of water (inH

x 0.036 = Pounds-force per square inch

x 27.68 = Inches of water (inH

(psi; lbf/in

; lb/in

)

Torque (moment of force)

Pounds-force inches

x 1.152 = Kilograms-force centimetre

x 0.868 = Pounds-force inches

(lbf in; lb in)

(kgf cm; kg cm)

(lbf in; lb in)

Pounds-force inches

x 0.113 = Newton metres (Nm)

x 8.85

= Pounds-force inches

(lbf in; lb in)

Pounds-force inches

x 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)

x 12

= Pounds-force inches

(lbf in; lb in)

Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)

x 0.138 = Kilograms-force metres

x 7.233 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)

(kgf m; kg m)

Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)

x 1.356 = Newton metres (Nm)

x 0.738 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)

Newton metres (Nm)

x 0.102 = Kilograms-force metres

x 9.804 = Newton metres (Nm)

(kgf m; kg m)

Power

Horsepower (hp)

x 745.7 = Watts (W)

x 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp)

Velocity (speed)

Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

x 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) x 0.621 = Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption*

Miles per gallon (mpg)

x 0.354 = Kilometres per litre (km/l)

x 2.825 = Miles per gallon (mpg)

Temperature

Degrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1.8) + 32

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56

* It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (l/100km), where mpg x l/100 km = 282

Buying spare parts

Spare parts are available from many

sources, including maker’s appointed
garages, accessory shops, and motor factors.
To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, it
will sometimes be necessary to quote the
vehicle identification number. If possible, it
can also be useful to take the old parts along
for positive identification. Items such as
starter motors and alternators may be
available under a service exchange scheme -
any parts returned should always be clean.

Our advice regarding spare part sources is

as follows.

Officially-appointed garages

This is the best source of parts which are

peculiar to your car, and which are not
otherwise generally available (eg badges,
interior trim, certain body panels, etc). It is
also the only place at which you should buy
parts if the vehicle is still under warranty.

Accessory shops

These are very good places to buy

materials and components needed for the

maintenance of your car (oil, air and fuel
filters, spark plugs, light bulbs, drivebelts, oils
and greases, brake pads, touch-up paint, etc).
Components of this nature sold by a
reputable shop are of the same standard as
those used by the car manufacturer.

Besides components, these shops also sell

tools and general accessories, usually have
convenient opening hours, charge lower
prices, and can often be found not far from
home. Some accessory shops have parts
counters where the components needed for
almost any repair job can be purchased or
ordered.

Motor factors

Good factors will stock all the more

important components which wear out
comparatively quickly, and can sometimes
supply individual components needed for the
overhaul of a larger assembly (eg brake seals
and hydraulic parts, bearing shells, pistons,
valves, alternator brushes). They may also
handle work such as cylinder block reboring,
crankshaft regrinding and balancing, etc.

Tyre and exhaust specialists

These outlets may be independent, or

members of a local or national chain. They
frequently offer competitive prices when
compared with a main dealer or local garage,
but it will pay to obtain several quotes before
making a decision. When researching prices,
also ask what “extras” may be added - for
instance, fitting a new valve and balancing the
wheel are both commonly charged on top of
the price of a new tyre.

Other sources

Beware of parts or materials obtained from

market stalls, car boot sales or similar outlets.
Such items are not invariably sub-standard,
but there is little chance of compensation if
they do prove unsatisfactory. In the case of
safety-critical components such as brake
pads, there is the risk not only of financial loss
but also of an accident causing injury or
death.

Second-hand components or assemblies

obtained from a car breaker can be a good
buy in some circumstances, but this sort of
purchase is best made by the experienced
DIY mechanic.

Modifications are a continuing and

unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture.
Spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on
a numerical basis, the individual vehicle
numbers being essential to identify correctly
the component required.

The vehicle identification plate is located on

the right-hand front wing valance in the
engine compartment (see illustration).

The body serial number is stamped on the

scuttle crossmember above the vehicle
identification plate.

The engine number is situated on the

cylinder block. On non-XU engine models
with an aluminium cylinder block, the number
is stamped on a plate which is riveted to the
flywheel end of the block; on later models with
a cast-iron block, the number is stamped on a

machined surface on the flywheel end of the
block. On early XU engine models, the
number is stamped on a plate which is riveted
to the timing belt end of the front of the
cylinder block; on later models, the number is
stamped on a machined surface at the
flywheel end of the front of the block.

Buying spare parts

REF•3

REF

Vehicle identification

Vehicle identification plate (1) and body serial number (2)

REF•4

General repair procedures

Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work

is carried out on the car or its components,
observe the following procedures and
instructions. This will assist in carrying out the
operation efficiently and to a professional
standard of workmanship.

Joint mating faces and gaskets

When separating components at their

mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.

Where a gasket is used between the mating

faces of two components, a new one must be
fitted on reassembly; fit it dry unless otherwise
stated in the repair procedure. Make sure that
the mating faces are clean and dry, with all
traces of old gasket removed. When cleaning a
joint face, use a tool which is unlikely to score
or damage the face, and remove any burrs or
nicks with an oilstone or fine file.

Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned

with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.

Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes

are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.

Oil seals

Oil seals can be removed by levering them

out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers or
some similar device in order to pull the seal free.

Whenever an oil seal is removed from its

working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.

The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily

damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original
sealing surface of the component cannot be
restored, and the manufacturer has not made
provision for slight relocation of the seal
relative to the sealing surface, the component
should be renewed.

Protect the lips of the seal from any surface

which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.

Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be

fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.

Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the

appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is

unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with
its face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).

Screw threads and fastenings

Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a

common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.

Studs are usually removed by locking two

nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a stud extractor. Always ensure that a
blind tapped hole is completely free from oil,
grease, water or other fluid before installing
the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause
the housing to crack due to the hydraulic
action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.

When tightening a castellated nut to accept

a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken
the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated
in the repair procedure.

When checking or retightening a nut or bolt

to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.

For some screw fastenings, notably

cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench
settings are no longer specified for the latter
stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being
called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque
wrench setting will be applied to the
bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed
by one or more stages of tightening through
specified angles.

Locknuts, locktabs and washers

Any fastening which will rotate against a

component or housing during tightening
should always have a washer between it and
the relevant component or housing.

Spring or split washers should always be

renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.

Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-

critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose their

effectiveness after long periods of use, and
should then be renewed as a matter of course.

Split pins must always be replaced with

new ones of the correct size for the hole.

When thread-locking compound is found

on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.

Special tools

Some repair procedures in this manual

entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring com-
pressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the manu-
facturer’s special tools are described, and are
shown in use. In some instances, where no
alternative is possible, it has been necessary
to resort to the use of a manufacturer’s tool,
and this has been done for reasons of safety
as well as the efficient completion of the repair
operation. Unless you are highly-skilled and
have a thorough understanding of the
procedures described, never attempt to
bypass the use of any special tool when the
procedure described specifies its use. Not
only is there a very great risk of personal
injury, but expensive damage could be
caused to the components involved.

Environmental considerations

When disposing of used engine oil, brake

fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department, or the
National Rivers Authority, for further advice.

With the universal tightening-up of legis-

lation regarding the emission of environmen-
tally-harmful substances from motor vehicles,
most vehicles have tamperproof devices fitted
to the main adjustment points of the fuel
system. These devices are primarily designed
to prevent unqualified persons from adjusting
the fuel/air mixture, with the chance of a
consequent increase in toxic emissions. If
such devices are found during servicing or
overhaul, they should, wherever possible, be
renewed or refitted in accordance with the
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.

Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.

The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit

should only be used for changing the
roadwheels - see “Wheel changing” at the
front of this manual. When carrying out any
other kind of work, raise the vehicle using a
hydraulic (or “trolley”) jack, and always
supplement the jack with axle stands.

The sill jacking points or their adjacent

re-inforced areas should be used as jacking
points for raising the car (see illustration). A
beam may be placed under the front
subframe and the front end jacked up under
that. The side-members of the front subframe
should be used as axle stand support points.

The rear side-members may be used in a
similar way.

Never work under, around, or near a raised

vehicle, unless it is adequately supported in at
least two places.

The radio/cassette unit fitted as standard or

optional equipment may be equipped with a
built-in security code, to deter thieves. If the
power source to the unit is cut, the anti-theft
system will activate. Even if the power source
is immediately reconnected, the
radio/cassette unit will not function until the

correct security code has been entered.
Therefore, if you do not know the correct
security code for the radio/cassette unit do
not disconnect either of the battery terminals,
or remove the radio/cassette unit from the
vehicle.

To enter the correct security code, follow

the instructions provided with the
radio/cassette player or vehicle handbook.

If an incorrect code is entered, the unit will

become locked, and cannot be operated.

If this happens, or if the security code is lost

or forgotten, seek the advice of your Peugeot
dealer.

Jacking and vehicle support

REF•5

REF

Front jacking point

Jack supplied with tool kit (1) shown engaged with front jacking point (2)

Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system

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