Peugeot 205. Manual - part 38

3 If the hub nut has yet to be loosened,
fabricate a tool from two lengths of steel strip
(one long, one short) and a nut and bolt; the
nut and bolt form the pivot of a forked tool.
Bolt the tool to the hub flange using two wheel
bolts, and hold the tool to prevent the hub
from rotating (see Chapter 8, Section 2).
Slacken the hub nut using a socket and a long
extension bar.
4 Unscrew the clamp bolt securing the front
suspension lower balljoint to the bottom of the
hub carrier then pull the lower suspension arm
down from the carrier (see illustrations).
5 Recover the balljoint guard plate, where
fitted.
6 Turn the front wheels to full right-hand lock
(left-hand hub carrier), or full left-hand lock
(right-hand hub carrier) and remove the hub
nut and, where fitted, the washer. Note that a
new hub nut will be required for refitting.
7 Pull the hub carrier outwards and at the
same time withdraw the outer end of the
driveshaft from the hub. Suitably support or
tie up the driveshaft in a near horizontal
position to avoid damage to the inner CV
joints.
8 Unbolt the disc brake caliper from the hub
carrier and either place it on a stand or tie it to
one side. 
9 Remove the two screws and withdraw the
brake disc. 
10 Unscrew the nut and use a balljoint
removal tool to separate the track rod end
balljoint from the hub carrier steering arm. 
11 Unscrew the clamp bolt securing the
lower end of the suspension strut to the hub
carrier (see illustration). Spread the slot on
the hub carrier using a screwdriver or suitable
wedge and slide the carrier from the bottom
of the strut. Remove the hub carrier from the
car.

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but refer
to Chapters 8 and 9 respectively when
refitting the driveshaft and disc brake caliper.

3

Front hub bearings - renewal

4

Note: The bearing is a sealed, pre-adjusted
and pre-lubricated, double-row ball type, and
is intended to last the car’s entire service life
without maintenance or attention. Never
overtighten the driveshaft nut beyond the
specified torque wrench setting in an attempt
to “adjust” the bearing.
Note: A press will be required to dismantle
and rebuild the assembly; if such a tool is not
available, a large bench vice and spacers
(such as large sockets) will serve as an
adequate substitute. The bearing’s inner races
are an interference fit on the hub; if the inner
race remains on the hub when it is pressed
out of the hub carrier, a knife-edged bearing
puller will be required to remove it. A new
bearing retaining circlip must be used on
refitting.
1 Remove the hub carrier assembly as
described in Section 2.
2 Support the hub carrier securely on blocks
or in a vice. Using a tubular spacer which
bears only on the inner end of the hub flange,
press the hub flange out of the bearing. If the
bearing’s outboard inner race remains on the
hub, remove it using a bearing puller (see note
above).
3 Extract the bearing retaining circlip from the
inner end of the hub carrier assembly (see
illustration).

4 Where necessary, refit the inner race back
in position over the ball cage, and securely
support the inner face of the hub carrier.
Using a tubular spacer which bears only on
the inner race, press the complete bearing
assembly out of the hub carrier.
5 Thoroughly clean the hub and hub carrier,
removing all traces of dirt and grease, and
polish away any burrs or raised edges which
might hinder reassembly. Check both for
cracks or any other signs of wear or damage,
and renew them if necessary. Renew the
circlip, regardless of its apparent condition.
6 On reassembly, apply a light film of oil to
the bearing outer race and hub flange shaft, to
aid installation of the bearing.
7 Securely support the hub carrier, and locate
the bearing in the hub. Press the bearing fully
into position, ensuring that it enters the hub
squarely, using a tubular spacer which bears
only on the bearing outer race.
8 Once the bearing is correctly seated,
secure the bearing in position with the new
circlip, ensuring that it is correctly located in
the groove in the hub carrier.
9 Securely support the outer face of the hub
flange, and locate the hub carrier bearing
inner race over the end of the hub flange.
Press the bearing onto the hub, using a
tubular spacer which bears only on the inner
race of the hub bearing, until it seats against
the hub shoulder. Check that the hub flange
rotates freely, and wipe off any excess oil or
grease.
10 Refit the hub carrier assembly as
described in Section 2.

4

Front suspension strut -
removal and refitting

4

Removal

1 Before raising the car it is recommended
that a retaining tool is fitted to the coil spring
to hold the spring in a semi-compressed
state. This will provide sufficient clearance to
enable the strut to be withdrawn from the hub
carrier. Peugeot garages use two special
cables inserted through the holes at the top of

Suspension and steering  10•3

10

2.4a  Unscrew the lower balljoint clamp

bolt . . .

2.4b . . . and pull the suspension arm down

from the hub carrier

2.11  Unscrew the clamp bolt securing the

lower end of the suspension strut to the

hub carrier

3.3  Front hub bearing retaining circlip

(arrowed)

the front suspension tower and engaged with
further holes in the bottom coil spring seat. If
available use these, otherwise fit universal coil
spring compressors (see illustration). Do not
attempt to use any makeshift tool, as
considerable damage could occur if the
spring breaks free. To fit either type of tool it
will be necessary to turn the front wheel to full
lock in alternate directions.
2 Loosen, but do not remove, the three strut
top mounting nuts (see illustration).
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove
the relevant front roadwheel.
4 On GTI models, unscrew the nut and
disconnect the anti-roll bar link from the strut.

5 Unscrew the clamp bolt securing the lower
end of the strut to the hub carrier. Spread the
slot on the hub carrier using a screwdriver or
suitable wedge, push the suspension arm
down, and slide the carrier from the bottom of
the strut.
6 Support the strut then unscrew the top
mounting nuts and withdraw it from under the
wheel arch. Recover the washers.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal but ensure
that the strut fully enters the hub carrier. If there
is any doubt about this, loosen the clamp bolt
with the full weight of the car on the suspension,
and the strut will be forced fully home.
Retighten the bolt to the specified torque.

5

Front suspension strut -
overhaul

4

Warning: Before attempting to
dismantle the suspension strut, a
suitable tool to hold the coil spring
in compression must be obtained.

Adjustable coil spring compressors which
can be positively secured to the spring coils
are readily available, and are recommended
for this operation. Any attempt to dismantle
the strut without such a tool is likely to result
in damage or personal injury.
1 Remove the strut from the car as described
in Section 4.
2 Clean away all external dirt from the strut
and coil spring.
3 Fit the spring compressors to the coils of
the spring. Ensure that the compressors used
are of a type that incorporate a method for
positively locking them to the spring (usually
by a small clamp bolt). Any other type may
slip off or slide round the spring as they are
tightened. Tighten the compressors until the
load is taken off the spring seats. If
applicable, remove the Peugeot cables.
4 Unscrew the piston rod nut, counterholding
the piston rod with a 7 mm Allen key (see
illustration). Note that a new nut will be
required for reassembly.
5 Remove the washer and top mounting,
followed by the coil spring. The spring may
remain in the compressed state ready for
refitting to the strut. If the spring is to be
renewed, release the compressors very gently
and evenly until they can be removed and
fitted to the new spring.
6 If necessary, remove the gaiter and bump
stop from the piston rod. Note the location of
each component to ensure correct refitting.
7 Check the strut for signs of fluid seepage at
the piston rod seal. Temporarily refit the upper
mounting to the piston rod and, with the
bottom of the strut gripped in a vice, fully
extend and retract the piston rod. If the
resistance is not firm and even in both
directions, or if there are signs of leakage or
damage, the strut must be renewed.
8 Reassemble the strut using the reverse of
the dismantling procedure but note that the
bump stop must be fitted with the largest
diameter uppermost. Use a new piston rod
nut and tighten it to the specified torque. Refit
the strut to the car as described in Section 4
on completion.

6

Front lower suspension arm
- removal and refitting

3

Removal

1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove
the relevant front roadwheel.

10•4 Suspension and steering

4.1  Coil spring compressors fitted to strut

spring

4.2  Front suspension top mounting nuts

5.4  Front suspension strut components

1 Top mounting nut
2 Piston rod nut
3 Washer
4 Spacer
5 Top mounting
6 Pad

7 Cap
8 Stop
9 Coil spring
10 Bump stop
11 Piston rod
12 Strut

2 On non-GTI models, unscrew the nut
securing the anti-roll bar to the suspension
arm and remove the washer (see illustration).
3 Unscrew the clamp bolt securing the front
suspension lower balljoint to the bottom of the

hub carrier then pull the lower suspension arm
down from the carrier. Recover the balljoint
guard plate, where fitted.
4 Unscrew and remove the inner pivot bolt(s),
noting their fitted direction (see illustrations).

5 Lever down the anti-roll bar where
necessary and withdraw the arm from the car.
6 Check the inner pivot bushes for wear and
deterioration. Check the lower balljoint on the
outer end of the arm for excessive wear
indicated by up and down movement of the
ball in the socket. Check the arm for damage
or deterioration. The bushes may be renewed
using a simple puller consisting of a metal
tube and washers, together with a long bolt
and nut. It is not possible to renew the
balljoint separately.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but delay
final tightening of the inner pivot bolt until the
full weight of the car is on the suspension.

7

Front anti-roll bar - removal
and refitting

4

Non - GTI models

Removal

1 Remove the lower suspension arm from
one side, as described in Section 6.
2 Unscrew the nut securing the remaining
end of the anti-roll bar to the other suspension
arm and recover the washer.
3 Unbolt the guide bar from the subframe
(see illustration).
4 Unscrew the mounting clamp bolts (see
illustration) and withdraw the anti-roll bar
over the subframe.
5 Examine the rubber bearings for damage
and deterioration, and renew them if
necessary. The bearings in the suspension
arms can be prised or driven out.

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but delay
fully tightening the clamp bolts until the full
weight of the car is on wheels. The guide bar
bolts should also remain loosened until after
the bearing clamp bolts have been tightened.

Suspension and steering  10•5

10

6.2  Anti-roll bar attachment to lower

suspension arm on non-GTI models

6.4a  Front lower suspension arm inner

pivot bolt (arrowed) on non-GTI models

6.4b  Front lower suspension arm

components on GTI models

1 Nut
2 Washer
3 Bush
4 Suspension arm
5 Bolts
6 Bush
7 Nuts
8 Hub carrier
9 Clamp bolt

7.3  Anti-roll bar guide bar bolt (arrowed) on non-GTI models

7.4  Anti-roll bar mounting clamp bolts (arrowed)

7 The guide bar length must be adjusted to
the dimension shown when refitting (see
illustration). Note that a full-circle clamp is
fitted to early models with a 6.0 mm diameter
anti-roll bar, whereas a split clamp is fitted to
later models with a 7.0 mm diameter bar. On
the later type, position the clamp centrally on
the turned-back end of the bar before
tightening the bolts.

GTI models

Removal

8 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove
the front roadwheels.
9 Unscrew the self-locking nuts from the
bottom of the link arms (see illustration) and
if necessary use a separator tool to release
the joints.
10 Unscrew the bearing clamp bolts and
withdraw the anti-roll bar over the subframe.
11 Unscrew the self-locking nuts from the
tops of the link arms and remove the arms
from the suspension struts, again using a
separator tool if required.
12 Examine the rubber bearings for damage
and deterioration and renew them if
necessary. Check the balljoints on the link
arms for excessive wear, and the rubber
boots for any damage. The balljoints cannot
be renewed separately, so if any damage is

evident the complete link arm must be
renewed.
13 The left-hand side anti-roll bar bearing
incorporates a location ring and therefore the
bearings must always be fitted to their correct
sides. The left-hand bearing is colour-coded
in grey or red and the right-hand bearing in
yellow or white.

Refitting

14 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
delay fully tightening the mountings until the
weight of the car is on its wheels.

8

Rear hub/drum and bearings
- general information

The removal and refitting of the rear

hub/drum assembly is described in Chapter 9,
together with the inspection of the drum for
wear.

On pre-1986 models the hub/drum and

bearings are a sealed assembly and it is not
possible to renew the bearings separately. If
the bearings are worn excessively it will
therefore be necessary to renew the complete
hub/drum assembly.

If the hub/drum oil seal is worn or damaged

it can be renewed by prising it out with a
screwdriver and pressing in the new one with
a metal tube. Clean and grease the seal
contact surface on the trailing arm before
refitting the hub/drum.

Models manufactured from early 1986 are

fitted with modified rear hub/drum assemblies
which does allow separate renewal of the
bearings.

Bearing renewal requires the use of a press

in conjunction with special tools to remove the
old bearing, and this is best entrusted to your
Peugeot dealer (once removed, a bearing is
rendered unserviceable).

When renewing the oil seal, Peugeot

recommend the use of special tool No. 7.052Y
to seat the new seal. If unavailable, make a
careful note of the position of the original seal
before removing it.

9

Rear suspension
components - general
information

Although it is possible to remove the rear

suspension torsion bars, trailing arms and
anti-roll bar independently of the complete
rear axle assembly, it is essential to have
certain special tools available to complete the
work successfully.

Due to the complexity of the tasks, and the

requirement for special tools to accurately set
the suspension geometry and vehicle ride
height on refitting, the removal and refitting of
individual rear suspension components is
considered to be beyond the scope of DIY
work, and should be entrusted to a Peugeot
dealer.

Procedures for removal and refitting of the

rear shock absorbers, and the complete rear
suspension assembly are given in Sections 10
and 11 respectively.

10 Rear shock absorber -

removal and refitting

2

Removal

1 Position the rear of the car on ramps or
alternatively jack it up and support it beneath
the wheels. Apply the handbrake.
2 Unscrew the shock absorber bottom
mounting nut and tap the bolt outwards until it
clears the shock absorber (see illustration). If
the bolt head fouls the handbrake cable
bracket, loosen the bracket bolt on the side of
the trailing arm and lift the bracket as
required. Do not forget to tighten the bolt after
refitting the shock absorber.
3 Unscrew the upper mounting nut, remove
the washer, and tap out the bolt.
4 Withdraw the shock absorber from under
the car.
5 A thorough check of the shock absorber
may now be made by gripping the bottom

10•6 Suspension and steering

7.9  Anti-roll bar link arm bottom mounting

on GTI models

7.7  Cross-section of front

suspension showing anti-roll bar

guide dimension

X = 330.0 mm