Peugeot 205. Manual - part 31

3 If the alternator output is suspect even
though the warning light functions correctly,
the regulated voltage may be checked as
follows.
4 Connect a voltmeter across the battery
terminals and start the engine.
5 Increase the engine speed until the
voltmeter reading remains steady; the reading
should be approximately 12 to 13 volts, and
no more than 14 volts.
6 Switch on as many electrical accessories
(eg, the headlights, heated rear window and
heater blower) as possible, and check that the
alternator maintains the regulated voltage at
around 13 to 14 volts.
7 If the regulated voltage is not as stated, the
fault may be due to worn brushes, weak brush
springs, a faulty voltage regulator, a faulty
diode, a severed phase winding or worn or
damaged slip rings. The alternator should be
renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for
testing and repair.

6

Alternator - removal and
refitting

2

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1.
3 Where necessary, refer to Chapter 4 and
move the relevant air cleaner components to
one side for increased access. 
4 Disconnect the wiring from the alternator
(see illustration).
5 Unscrew the pivot and adjustment bolts
and lift the alternator from the engine. On
certain models note that the alternator front
bracket is slotted to allow the pivot bolt to
remain in the bracket on the engine. 

Refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but tension
the drivebelt, as described in Chapter 1.

7

Alternator - testing and
overhaul

5

If the alternator is thought to be suspect, it

should be removed from the vehicle and taken
to an auto-electrician for testing. Most auto-
electricians will be able to supply and fit
brushes at a reasonable cost. However, check
on the cost of repairs before proceeding as it
may prove more economical to obtain a new
or exchange alternator.

8

Starting system - testing

1

Note: Refer to the precautions given in
“Safety first!” and in Section 1 of this Chapter
before starting work.
1 If the starter motor fails to operate when the
ignition key is turned to the appropriate
position, the following possible causes may
be to blame.

a) The battery is faulty.
b) The electrical connections between the

switch, solenoid, battery and starter
motor are somewhere failing to pass the
necessary current from the battery
through the starter to earth.

c) The solenoid is faulty.
d) The starter motor is mechanically or

electrically defective.

2 To check the battery, switch on the
headlights. If they dim after a few seconds,
this indicates that the battery is discharged -
recharge (see Section 3) or renew the battery.
If the headlights glow brightly, operate the
ignition switch and observe the lights. If they
dim, then this indicates that current is
reaching the starter motor, therefore the fault
must lie in the starter motor. If the lights
continue to glow brightly (and no clicking
sound can be heard from the starter motor
solenoid), this indicates that there is a fault in
the circuit or solenoid - see following
paragraphs. If the starter motor turns slowly
when operated, but the battery is in good
condition, then this indicates that either the
starter motor is faulty, or there is considerable
resistance somewhere in the circuit.
3 If a fault in the circuit is suspected,
disconnect the battery leads (including the
earth connection to the body), the
starter/solenoid wiring and the
engine/transmission earth strap. Thoroughly
clean the connections, and reconnect the
leads and wiring, then use a voltmeter or test
lamp to check that full battery voltage is
available at the battery positive lead
connection to the solenoid, and that the earth
is sound. Smear petroleum jelly around the
battery terminals to prevent corrosion -
corroded connections are amongst the most
frequent causes of electrical system faults.
4 If the battery and all connections are in

good condition, check the circuit by
disconnecting the wire from the solenoid
blade terminal. Connect a voltmeter or test
lamp between the wire end and a good earth
(such as the battery negative terminal), and
check that the wire is live when the ignition
switch is turned to the “start” position. If it is,
then the circuit is sound - if not the circuit
wiring can be checked as described in
Chapter 12.
5 The solenoid contacts can be checked by
connecting a voltmeter or test lamp between
the battery positive feed connection on the
starter side of the solenoid, and earth. When
the ignition switch is turned to the “start”
position, there should be a reading or lighted
bulb, as applicable. If there is no reading or
lighted bulb, the solenoid is faulty and should
be renewed.
6 If the circuit and solenoid are proved
sound, the fault must lie in the starter motor.
In this event, it may be possible to have the
starter motor overhauled by a specialist, but
check on the cost of spares before
proceeding, as it may prove more economical
to obtain a new or exchange motor.

9

Starter motor - removal and
refitting

2

Removal

1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Where necessary, refer to Chapter 4 and
move the relevant air cleaner components to
one side for increased access. 
3 On GTI models, remove the inlet manifold,
with reference to the relevant Part of Chap-
ter 4.
4 Disconnect the wiring from the solenoid
(see illustration).
5 Unscrew the bolts securing the brush end
bracket to the engine (see illustration).
6 Unscrew the mounting bolts at the flywheel
end (see illustration).
7 Withdraw the starter motor from the engine.

Starting and charging systems  5A•3

5A

6.4  Alternator wiring connections

9.4  Starter motor solenoid wiring

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but first
insert all mounting bolts finger tight, then
tighten the flywheel end bolts followed by the
brush end bolts.

10 Starter motor - testing and

overhaul

5

If the starter motor is thought to be suspect,

it should be removed from the vehicle and
taken to an auto-electrician for testing. Most
auto-electricians will be able to supply and fit
brushes at a reasonable cost. However, check
on the cost of repairs before proceeding as it
may prove more economical to obtain a new
or exchange motor.

11 Ignition switch - removal and

refitting

4

The ignition switch is integral with the

steering column lock, and can be removed as
described in Chapter 10.

12 Oil pressure warning light

switch - removal and refitting

2

Removal

1 The switch is located at the front of the
cylinder block, above the oil filter mounting.
Note that on some models access to the
switch may be improved if the vehicle is
jacked up and supported on axle stands so
that the switch can be reached from
underneath (see “Jacking and vehicle
support”).
2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3 Remove the protective sleeve from the
wiring plug (where applicable), then
disconnect the wiring from the switch.
4 Unscrew the switch from the cylinder block,
and recover the sealing washer. Be prepared
for oil spillage, and if the switch is to be left
removed from the engine for any length of
time, plug the hole in the cylinder block.

Refitting

5 Examine the sealing washer for signs of
damage or deterioration and if necessary
renew.
6 Refit the switch, complete with washer, and
tighten it securely. Reconnect the wiring
connector.
7 Lower the vehicle to the ground then check
and, if necessary, top-up the engine oil as
described in “Weekly checks”.

13 Electronic oil level sensor -

general information

1 Some 1985 XU series engine models have
an oil level sensor fitted to the engine sump,
together with a warning lamp on the
instrument panel. The system was only fitted
on the 1985 model year, and has been
deleted from later models.
2 The sensor incorporates a high-resistance
wire, which varies in conductivity depending
on whether it is immersed in or above the oil.
An electronic control unit mounted under the
right-hand side of the facia monitors the
conductivity, and operates the warning lamp
when necessary.
3 It should be noted that the system only
functions accurately if the car is on a level
surface. When the ignition is initially switched
on, the warning lamp should light for two
seconds. If the oil level is correct, the lamp will
then go out, but if it starts to flash the oil level
is low.
4 To prevent the system functioning
unnecessarily after the engine has started, the
control unit is earthed through the oil pressure
switch. The level check is made before
starting the engine. Some early models are
not earthed through the oil pressure switch
and on these, the warning lamp may flash if
for instance the engine is temporarily stalled
and the oil has not returned to the sump.

5A•4 Starting and charging systems

9.5  Starter motor brush end bracket retaining bolts on XV, XW

and XY series engines

9.6  Removing the starter motor mounting bolts on XV, XW 

and XY series engines

5B

Chapter 5  Part B:
Ignition system

System type

All engines except XU5M2/Z, XU5M3/Z, XU5M3/L and TU1M/L . . . . . .

Electronic breakerless ignition system

XU5M2/Z, XU5M3/Z, XU5M3/L and TU1M/L engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Static distributorless ignition system

Distributor

Rotor arm rotation  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Anti-clockwise

Firing order  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1 - 3 - 4 - 2 (No 1 cylinder at flywheel end of engine)

Ignition timing (vacuum hose disconnected)

XV8 and XW7 engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6° BTDC at 650 rpm

XY7 engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8°BTDC at 650 rpm

XY8 engines:

Early models with M152E advance curve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0° BTDC at 950 rpm

Later models with M159E advance curve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8° BTDC at 850 to 950 rpm

XU5J engines (up to VIN 5520364) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

30° BTDC at 3500 rpm or 6° BTDC at 700 rpm

XU5J engines (from VIN 5520364)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10° BTDC at 850 ± 50 rpm

XU5JA and XU5JA/K engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10° BTDC at 900 rpm

XU51C and XU51C/K engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10° BTDC at 750 rpm

XU5M2/Z, XU5M3/Z and XU5M3/L engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Not adjustable, controlled by MMFD Mono-point G5/6 engine
management system

XU9JA and XU9JA/K engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5° BTDC at 700 rpm

XU9JA/Z and XU9JA/L engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Not adjustable, controlled by Motronic M1.3 engine management
system

XU9J1/Z and XU9J1/L engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10° BTDC at 900 rpm

TU series engines (except TU1M/L)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8° BTDC at idling speed (see Chapter 4)

TU1M/L engines  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Not adjustable, controlled by MMFD Mono-point G6 engine
management system

Ignition coil

Ignition HT coil resistances:*

Electronic breakerless ignition systems:

Primary windings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.8 ohms

Secondary windings  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6.5 K ohms

Static distributorless ignition systems:

Primary windings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.5 to 0.8 ohms

Secondary windings - Bosch coil  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

14.6 K ohms

Secondary windings - Valeo coil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8.6 K ohms

*The above results are approximate values and are accurate only when the coil is at 20°C. See text for further information
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

See Chapter 1 Specifications

Distributor (breakerless ignition systems) - removal and refitting  . . . 4
General information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Ignition amplifier (breakerless ignition systems) - removal and 

refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Ignition HT coil - removal, testing and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Ignition module (static distributorless ignition systems) - removal and

refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Ignition system - testing  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Ignition system check  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Ignition timing - checking and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Spark plug renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
TDC sensor - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Timing plate (breakerless ignition systems) - adjustment  . . . . . . . . . 7

5B•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1

1

General information

Electronic breakerless ignition
system

A number of different breakerless ignition

systems are used on 205 models according to
engine type and fuel system fitted. Some are
simple self-contained systems and some
work in conjunction with the fuel system to
form an integrated engine management
package. 

In order that the engine may run correctly it

is necessary for an electrical spark to ignite
the fuel/air mixture in the combustion
chamber at exactly the right moment in
relation to engine speed and load.

Basically the ignition system functions as

follows. Low tension voltage from the battery
is fed to the ignition coil, where it is converted
into high tension voltage. The high tension
voltage is powerful enough to jump the spark
plug gap in the cylinder many times a second
under high compression pressure, providing
that the ignition system is in good working
order.

The distributor contains a reluctor mounted

onto its shaft and a magnet and stator fixed to
its body. An ignition amplifier unit is mounted
either remotely, adjacent to the ignition coil, or
on the side of the distributor body.

When the ignition is switched on but the

engine is stationary the transistors in the
amplifier unit prevent current flowing through
the ignition system primary (LT) circuit.

As the crankshaft rotates, the reluctor

moves through the magnetic field created by
the stator. When the reluctor teeth are in
alignment with the stator projections a small
AC voltage is created. The amplifier unit uses
this voltage to switch the transistors in the
unit and complete the ignition system primary
(LT) circuit.

As the reluctor teeth move out of alignment

with the stator projections the AC voltage
changes and the transistors in the amplifier
unit are switched again to interrupt the
primary (LT) circuit. This causes a high voltage
to be induced in the coil secondary (HT)
windings which then travels down the HT lead
to the distributor and onto the relevant spark
plug.

The ignition is advanced and retarded

automatically by centrifugal weights and a
vacuum capsule or by the engine
management electronic control unit to ensure
that the spark occurs at the correct instant in
relation to engine speed and load.

Static distributorless ignition
system

A static ignition system is used on models

with MMFD Mono-point G5 and G6 engine
management systems. The system is
integrated with the fuel injection system, and is

controlled by the MMFD electronic control unit
(ECU). The ECU receives information from
various sensors, and using this information, the
optimum ignition advance for the prevailing
engine conditions is selected from a series of
“mapped” values stored in the ECU memory
(see Chapter 4B for further information).

The single ignition module replaces the

amplifier unit, HT coil and distributor in a
conventional system. The ignition module
incorporates a double coil, with four
high-tension outputs to the spark plugs,
which dispenses with the requirement for a
conventional distributor and rotor arm.

Each coil is controlled by the MMFD

electronic control unit. Each time one of the
coil primary circuits is switched, two sparks
are provided, one to a cylinder on the
compression stroke, and one to a cylinder on
the exhaust stroke. The spark to the cylinder
on the exhaust stroke is effectively a “wasted
spark”, but has no detrimental effect on the
performance of the engine.

2

Ignition system - testing

2

Warning: Voltages produced by
an electronic ignition system are
considerably higher than those
produced by conventional

ignition systems. Extreme care must be
taken when working on the system with the
ignition switched on. Persons with
surgically-implanted cardiac pacemaker
devices should keep well clear of the ignition
circuits, components and test equipment.

Models with electronic
breakerless ignition systems

Note: Refer to the warning given in Section 1
of Part A of this Chapter before starting work.
Always switch off the ignition before
disconnecting or connecting any component
and when using a multi-meter to check
resistances.

General

1 The components of electronic ignition
systems are normally very reliable; most faults
are far more likely to be due to loose or dirty
connections or to “tracking” of HT voltage
due to dirt, dampness or damaged insulation
than to the failure of any of the system’s
components.  Always

check all wiring

thoroughly before condemning an electrical
component and work methodically to
eliminate all other possibilities before deciding
that a particular component is faulty.
2 The old practice of checking for a spark by
holding the live end of an HT lead a short
distance away from the engine is not
recommended; not only is there a high risk of
a powerful electric shock, but the HT coil or
amplifier unit will be damaged. Similarly,
never try to “diagnose” misfires by pulling off
one HT lead at a time.

Engine will not start

3 If the engine either will not turn over at all,
or only turns very slowly, check the battery
and starter motor. Connect a voltmeter across
the battery terminals (meter positive probe to
battery positive terminal), disconnect the
ignition coil HT lead from the distributor cap
and earth it, then note the voltage reading
obtained while turning over the engine on the
starter for (no more than) ten seconds. If the
reading obtained is less than approximately
9.5 volts, first check the battery, starter motor
and charging system as described in Part A of
this Chapter.
4 If the engine turns over at normal speed but
will not start, check the HT circuit by
connecting a timing light (following the
manufacturer’s instructions) and turning the
engine over on the starter motor; if the light
flashes, voltage is reaching the spark plugs,
so these should be checked first. If the light
does not flash, check the HT leads
themselves followed by the distributor cap,
carbon brush and rotor arm using the
information given in Chapter 1.
5 If there is a spark, check the fuel system for
faults referring to the relevant part of Chapter
4 for further information.
6 If there is still no spark, check the voltage at
the ignition HT coil “+” terminal; it should be
the same as the battery voltage (ie, at least
11.7 volts). If the voltage at the coil is more
than 1 volt less than that at the battery, check
the feed back through the fusebox and
ignition switch to the battery and its earth until
the fault is found.
7 If the feed to the HT coil is sound, check the
coil’s primary and secondary winding
resistance as described later in this Chapter;
renew the coil if faulty, but be careful to check
carefully the condition of the LT connections
themselves before doing so, to ensure that
the fault is not due to dirty or poorly-fastened
connectors.
8 If the HT coil is in good condition, the fault
is probably within the amplifier unit or
distributor stator assembly. Testing of these
components should be entrusted to a
Peugeot dealer.

Engine misfires

9 An irregular misfire suggests either a loose
connection or intermittent fault on the primary
circuit, or an HT fault on the coil side of the
rotor arm.
10 With the ignition switched off, check
carefully through the system ensuring that all
connections are clean and securely fastened.
If the equipment is available, check the LT
circuit as described above.
11 Check that the HT coil, the distributor cap
and the HT leads are clean and dry. Check the
leads themselves and the spark plugs (by
substitution, if necessary), then check the
distributor cap, carbon brush and rotor arm as
described in Chapter 1.
12 Regular misfiring is almost certainly due to
a fault in the distributor cap, HT leads or spark

5B•2 Ignition system