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Acura CSX. Manual - part 14

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4-5

Circuit Diagram

G401

BLK

ORN

(M/T model)

BLK

BLU/WHT

G101

ORN

RED

No. 1 (100 A)

IGNITION SWITCH

BAT

No. 2 (50 A)

BATTERY

UNDER-HOOD FUSE/RELAY BOX

BLK/WHT

YEL

STARTER
CUT
RELAY

UNDER-DASH
FUSE/RELAY
BOX

TRANSMISSION
RANGE SWITCH
(ON: P, N position)

CLUTCH
INTERLOCK
SWITCH
(ON: Pedal
pressed)

ST HOT in
START (III)

F29

STARTER

WHT

C101

C102

WHT

(A/T model)

＃

＠

−

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−

Special Tools Required

YES

4-6

Starting System

Starter System Circuit Troubleshooting

OTC3131

Alternator, Regulator, Battery & Starter tester OTC3131
Available through the Honda Canada Inc. Technical
Tools Department; FAX

866-398-8665/e-mail:

ch_technicaltools

ch.honda.com

NOTE:

• Air temperature must be within 15

38 °C

(59

100 °F) during this procedure.

• After this inspection, you must reset the engine

control module (ECM)/powertrain control module
(PCM). Otherwise, the ECM/PCM will continue to stop
the fuel injectors from operating.

• The battery must be in good condition and fully

charged.

1. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery & starter

tester (OTC3131) to the battery as shown.

NOTE: The probe is not used for battery testing.

2. Do the BATTERY TEST.

The battery is OK. Go to step 3.

If the display indicates BAD BATTERY, replace

the battery, then retest. If the display indicates
CHARGE & RETEST, charge the battery, then retest.

3. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the

data link connector (DLC) (see step 2 on page 11-3).

4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle

and the ECM/PCM. If it does not communicate,
troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see page 11-204).

6. Select ALL INJECTORS STOP in the PGM-FI

INSPECTION menu with the HDS.

7. Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in N

or P (A/T model) or the clutch pedal pressed (M/T
model), turn the ignition switch to START (III).

The starting system is OK. Go to step 14.

Go to step 8.

8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).

9. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the

negative battery cable to the body, the engine
ground cables, and the starter for looseness and
corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again.

Repairing the loose connection corrected the

problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 14.

Based on the following symptoms, take the

appropriate action:

• If the starter does not crank the engine at all, go

to step 10.

• If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too

slowly, go to step 12.

• If the starter does not disengage from the

flywheel ring gear (M/T model) or torque
converter ring gear (A/T model) when you
release the key, replace the starter, or remove
and disassemble it, and check for the following:
– Starter solenoid and switch malfunction
– Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning

clutch

Does the display indicate GOOD or GOOD, LOW
CHARGE?

Does the star ter cr ank the engine nor mally?

０２

−

YES

4-7

10. Make sure the shift lever is in N or P (A/T model) or

neutral (M/T model), then disconnect the engine
wire harness 1P connector (A). Connect a jumper
wire from the battery positive terminal to the
starter subharness 1P connector (B).

Go to step 11.

Check the starter subharness. If the wire is OK,

remove the starter (see page 4-10), then repair or
replace (see page 4-13) it as necessary.

11. Check the following items in the order listed until

you find the problem circuit:

NOTE: After the open circuit or high resistance in
the circuit is found and repaired, go to step 14.

• Check for an open or short in the YEL wire and

connectors between the driver’s under-dash
fuse/relay box and the ignition switch.

• Check for an open or short in the RED wire and

connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay
box and the engine wire harness 1P connector.

• Check for an open or short in the ORN wire and

connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay
box and the clutch interlock switch (M/T model).

• Check for an open or short in the ORN wire, BLU/

WHT wire and connectors between the under-
dash fuse/relay box and the transmission range
switch (A/T model).

• Check for poor ground at G401 (M/T model) or

G101 (A/T model).

• Check for a faulty ignition switch (see page 22-72).
• Check for a faulty clutch interlock switch (M/T

model) (see page 4-8).

• Check for a faulty transmission range switch (A/T

model) (see page 14-265).

• Check for a faulty starter cut relay (see page

22-70).

Does the star ter cr ank the engine?

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YES

M/T model

4-8

Starting System

Clutch Interlock Switch Test

OTC3131

Terminal

Position

Clutch Interlock Switch

(PRESSED)

(RELEASED)

12. Do the STARTING TEST with the alternator,

regulator battery & starter tester.

NOTE: The probe is used for starter testing.

Go to step 13.

Replace the starter, or remove and

disassemble it, and check for these problems:

• Drag in the starter armature
• Short in the armature winding
• Excessive drag in the engine
• Open circuit in starter armature commutator

segments

• Excessively worn starter brushes
• Open circuit in the starter brushes
• Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
• Faulty overrunning clutch

13. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and

the flywheel ring gear (M/T model) or the torque
converter ring gear (A/T model) for damage.
Replace any damaged parts.

14. Select ECM/PCM reset (see page 11-4) in the PGM-

FI INSPECTION menu to cancel ALL INJECTORS
STOP with the HDS.

1. Disconnect the clutch interlock switch 2P connector

(A).

2. Remove the clutch interlock switch (B).

3. Check for continuity between the terminals

according to the table.

• If the continuity is not as specified, replace the

clutch interlock switch (see page 12-8).

• If OK, install the clutch interlock switch, and

adjust the pedal height (see page 12-8).

Terminal side of
male terminals

Does the display indicate cr anking voltage gr eater
than or equal to 8.5 V and the cur r ent dr aw less
than or equal to 380 A?

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