Snowmobile Polaris High Performance (2001 year). Manual - part 83

REAR SUSPENSION/TRACK/TRACTION

7.43

XTRA Lite Wide Hi-Fax

Xtra Lite wide hi-fax is available for ice racing applications. The part number is 5521556--304 for 2000 Edge,
5521587--309 for 2001 Edge Pro X suspensions. Install with the wide side to the outside of the snowmobile.
These hi-fax are made with a wear mark on the outside. When the hi-fax is wore to the wear mark line, replace the
hi-fax.

Hi-Fax Removal

Remove suspension from machine.

NOTE: Some models may allow Hi Fax to be removed
by sliding it through track windows with the suspension
mounted in the machine.

Remove front Hi-Fax retaining bolt.

Hi Fax Replacement

Use a block of wood or drift punch and a hammer to
drive Hi-Fax rearward off the slide rail.

With Hi-Fax material at room temperature, install
new Hi-Fax by reversing steps 1 - 3.

Rubber Track Clip Replacement

Install replacement clip and clipping tool as shown.

NOTE: For ease of operation, the tool may be placed in
a vise.

Tighten drive bolt against forming die until clip is
formed.

Track Guide Clip Installation Tool
PN 2871041

Track Clip Removal Tool
PN 2871337

REAR SUSPENSION/TRACK/TRACTION

REAR SUSPENSION/TRACK/TRACTION

7.44

Compression Adjustable Shocks

Indy Select Shocks are standard equipment some
models. Indy Select shocks allow the rider the ability to
adjust the compression rate. All that is required to adjust
compression is a simple turn with a regular screwdriver.
Turning the screw clockwise increases compression.
Turning

the

screw

counterclockwise

decreases

compression. Maximum adjustment is 2 1/2 turns.

NOTE: Whenever shocks are replaced or reinstalled for
any reason, the adjustment screw should be facing up.
Access to the adjuster is not possible if reversed. Fox
Shocks should be installed with the charge fitting up.

Compression Damping Adjustable Shocks

Snowmobiles equipped with the Indy Select / Ryde AFX rear shocks allow the driver to make adjustments to the
compression valving of the rear shock by turning the screw located near the base of the shock.

Adjustment

Locate the adjustment screw near the base of the shock. NOTE: This adjustment is easiest to make with the
machine tipped on its side.

WARNING

Be sure to shut off the fuel supply before tipping the machine to prevent fuel spillage and flooding of the carbure-
tors.

By turning the screw clockwise (a small screwdriver or dime work well), the compression valving is increased,
stiffening the ride. To soften the ride, reduce the compression by turning the screw counter-clockwise. A great
deal of ride performance is accomplished with a mere 1/2 to 1 turns. There are approximately 3 full turns of adjust-
ment available.

How to Adjust

If the suspension is “bottoming,” tighten the compression screw clockwise in 1/2 turn increments until the bottom-
ing stops. Backing off 1/4 turn counter-clockwise at this point should give you the best possible ride ensuring use
of the full travel of the suspension. The opposite procedure should be used if the suspension is too stiff upon initial
set-up.

The adjustment of the front track shock should be used in conjunction with the shock spring preload. If bottoming
continues after the screw is turned in as far as it will go, the torsion spring should be adjusted using the adjustment
block. Back the screw out to the original starting position after the torsion spring has been tightened.

Riding conditions are ever changing. Keep in mind the compression damping adjustable can be adjusted at any
time to achieve the best possible ride in any condition.

NOTE: Whenever shocks are replaced or reinstalled for any reason, the adjustment screw should be facing up.
Access to the adjuster is not possible if reversed. Fox

Shocks should be installed with the charge fitting up.

Damping Force
Adjustment

Adjustment Screw

REAR SUSPENSION/TRACK/TRACTION

REAR SUSPENSION/TRACK/TRACTION

7.45

Traction

The amount of traction required varies depending upon the type of riding and the snowmobile’s horsepower.

Studs are designed specifically for each riding category. They’re made in various lengths, shapes, and materials.
Improperly applied studs can cause poor traction and premature wear. Studs which are too long can cause dam-
age to the tunnel and heat exchangers.

Stud points fall into two categories: conical and scoopers. Conical studs (or picks) penetrate into the ground for
increased traction. Scoopers use a flat surface to hold more ground for traction. Generally, a penetrating point
is used for hard ground surfaces and ice. Scoopers are used on softer surfaces.

Material contributes more to stud life and cost than to functionality. Carbide is the most durable and lasts much
longer than steel. Studs should be installed no closer than 3/4

〉

from the edges of the track. Avoid the center of

the track because there is poor support in this area. The track’s center belt controls acceleration. The two smaller
outside track belts contribute to acceleration, and have the largest affect on cornering. The following chart is a
guideline for the quantity of studs to install.

Horsepower

Snowcross/

Cross Country

Drag

50-60 HP

96 Studs

60-75 HP

96 Studs

120 Studs

75-100 HP

120 Studs

144 Studs

100-125 HP

144 Studs

168 Studs

120-130 HP

168 Studs

192 Studs

125-150 HP

192 Studs

240 Studs

130-170 HP

240 Studs

Be sure to check allowable clearance between the track and tunnel or heat exchangers, factoring
in suspension travel.

Do not place studs under the tunnel protector strips (directly above slide rails on underside of tunnel).
Tunnel protectors are vital components and must not be subjected to stud damage.

V-shaped stud patterns with the least repetition work best. Studs should cover as many different lines
in the ice as possible.

Studs closest to the slide rails provide the most effectiveness, because the weight of the sled is con-
centrated in this area.

REAR SUSPENSION/TRACK/TRACTION

REAR SUSPENSION/TRACK/TRACTION

7.46

Stud Installation

Mark the stud pattern on the track.

Drill stud holes with a 1/4

〉

(7mm) hollow-core drill bit. Make sure the drill is sharp for a clean hole.

Spin the non-cutting portion of the drill shank in the hole at high speed to melt the cords together, or melt them
with a 1/4-9/32

〉

heated probe. This will prolong track life.

T-nut Studs

Push a T-nut tool through the hole from the outside of the track.

With the barrel end of the T-nut toward the track, spin a T-nut onto the tool. Pull the T-nut into the track until the
head is flush with the track.

Remove the tool and put a drop of Loctite

262 or 271 on the nut threads and stud threads.

Secure the T-nut, slide a support washer onto the stud, and screw the stud into the T-nut

Torque to 80-100 in. lbs. and let dry for 24 hours at room temperature.

Check for loose studs after each event.

Push Through Studs

Push stud through track hole from inside track. Hand tighten domed support plate and Nyloc nut on the
exposed stud.

Tighten with a socket on the nut and a 5.32

〉

allen wrench on the stud head. Tighten nut until the domed

washer bottoms out on the stud shoulder. If tightened beyond this point, the threads will be stripped.

Inspect for loose nuts after each event.

Refer to the diagrams below for stud length recommendations.

A = Stud Height
B = Washer Thickness
C = Track Lug Height
A + B - C = Penetration

Penetration

Steel .195

Aluminum .220

Backer Plates

Stud Mate .148

Hooker
Washer .025

Alum.
Shim .055

Stud Length

Maximum
Penetration

Maximum
Stud Length

Race
Type

Standard Low Profile Track

Deep Lug Track

1 1/4 to 1 1/2 Deep Lug Track

Steel Cleated Track

Oval
Drag

3/8

〉

3/4

〉

.750

〉

1.00

〉

Oval
Drag

3/8

〉

3/4

〉

.875

〉

1.00 - 2.00

〉

Oval
Drag

3/8

〉

3/4

〉

.700

〉

1.00

〉

Aggressive

1/4 - 3/8

〉

1.625

〉

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