TM 10-8400-203-23&P. Manual - part 13

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SKI REPAIR – CONTINUED  

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Table 1. Ski Mid Point Chart. 

SKI LENGTH 

HALF LENGTH  

cm  

cm 

in 

120  

60.0  

23 5/8 

130  

65.0  

25 5/8 

140  

70.0  

27 5/8 

150  

75.0  

29 1/2 

160  

80.0  

31 1/2 

165  

82.5  

32 1/2 

170  

85.0  

33 1/2 

175  

87.5  

34 1/2 

178  

89.0  

35 

180  

90.0  

35 3/8 

183  

91.5  

36 

185  

92.5  

36 3/8 

188  

94.0  

37 

190  

95.0  

37 3/8 

193  

96.5  

38 

195  

97.5  

38 3/8 

198  

99.0  

39 

200  

100.0  

39 3/8 

203  

101.5  

40 

205  

102.5  

40 3/8 

208  

104.0  

41 

210  

105.0  

41 3/8 

213  

106.5  

42 

215  

107.5  

42 3/8 

 

4.  In mounting the toe piece, ensure that it is centered with the long axis of the ski. 

NOTE 

Swivel point of toe piece at midpoint.  

8 in. from swivel point of toe piece to center of rear of front throw (large), 7 in. from swivel 
point of toe piece to center of rear screw of front throw (small) 8 1/4 from swivel point of 
toe piece to front screw of downhill cable guide Forward edge of heel plate even w/center 
of downhill cable guide if heel plate is Iarge (2½” x 2¼”); 1” further rearward if small heel 
plate (1¼” x 2¼”) 

To determine a large front throw from a small front throw, measure from the front 
mounting holes (those nearest the tip of the ski) to the back end of the lever in the closed 
position. This distance is approximately 5 ½ inches for the large throw and 4 ½ inches for 
the small throw. 
 

5.  Use the toe piece, front throw, and cable guides (side hitches) as templates in marking holes to be 

drilled. Locate the binding parts as shown in Figure 2. 

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Figure 2. Binding Parts Location. 

 

6.  Center punch holes before drilling. 

7.  Use sharp drills to prevent walking, keep points centered, and drill at 90-degree angle to prevent 

oversize holes. 

8.  Use the right size drill for the screws used in mounting the various parts of the binding. 

LARGE FRONT THROW

SMALL FRONT THROW

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CAUTION 

Do not use a screw which is too long; it will act as a jack and separate the various 
laminations or pierce the bottom. When you have a screw that is not short enough, 
grind the point off to the desired length. Do not force a sheet metal screw into too 
small a hole as it will cause the top skin to lift and not take a good seat, (skis 
constructed with metal top skin). 

Use some form of lubricant on the screw before insertion. Wax is effective and will 
help seal the hole against water seepage. When installing bindings on fiberglass skis, 
it is imperative that holes be countersunk through the top plastic. 

9.  Install bindings with a high quality hardened sheet metal screws. Countersink screw hole slightly. 

If there were problems with the installation, go through the next steps to fix.  If the installation was 
successful, go to step 14. 

10.  If a screw breaks off flush and cannot be removed with pliers, simply punch it through into the inner 

core of the wood or polyurethane. A new screw, usually the next larger size, can be installed in the 
same hole. 

11.  Where old shank remains imbedded, the new screw will go in slightly crooked but will still do the job.   

12.  If a screw breaks so that the above procedure cannot be followed, it will require moving to a new hole 

location. In order to avoid moving the binding and drilling all new holes, a new hole can be drilled 
adjacent to the plugged hole, through the toe plate into the ski. Drill the right size for screw threads 
then countersink to receive screw head. 

13.  If a screw should loosen up or strip, due to an oversize hole, use any of the following procedures: 

a.  Use next larger size screw. 

b.  Drill a new hole through both binding and ski. 

c.  Fill hole with steel wool soaked in epoxy and insert in hole, then let cure for 24 hours. 

d.  If the binding is being mounted on a ski from which a binding of another type (using a 

different set of drilled holes) was removed, all old holes must be filled with epoxy. This will 
keep water from penetrating and weakening the inner core of the ski. 

14.  Select proper cable size IAW Table 2.  

Table 2. Cable Sizing Chart. 

CABLE SIZE 

MOUNTAIN BOOT SIZE 

VB BOOT SIZE 

Short  

6 and below 

 

Medium 

7 though 13 

3 N through 14 x W 

Long  

 

END OF TASK 

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Ski Pairing  
 
Match skis in pairs for appearance, type, size, and weight. Do not remark for flexibility. On skis requiring 
rematching, obliterate the old pair numbers and stamp new pair numbers on each ski. Skis remaining as 
paired by original manufacture will retain the original numbers. Remark skis with faint paint numbering 
with the original numbers. Skis will have the proper size, length, pair number, and the letters US indented 
thereon. All remarking will be placed as an original marking in an area 8 to 11 inches (20.3 to 27.9 cm) 
forward of binding location point, located to read from the heel of ski.

 

 

1.  Place the letters US in characters not less than 3/8 inch (0.952 cm) or more than ½ inch (1.27 cm) 

high. 

2.  Identification serial numbers will be ¼ inch (0.635 cm) high on each ski of a pair. Number pairs 

commencing with 0001 each year. 

END OF TASK 

Repair of Gouges  
 
1.  Using a scraper and 120 grit emery (aluminum-oxide abrasive) cloth, remove wax and dirt from the 

area to be repaired. 

2.  Ignite the polyethylene candle and hold the candle very close to the ski to prevent plastic from cooling 

and not bonding properly. 

3.  Let the candle drip into the gouge, filling slightly higher than the surrounding material. Allow the 

gouge to cool. 

4.  Remove excess material with a scraper and smooth the surface with emery cloth. 

END OF TASK 

Edge Sharpening   

Sharpen the edges using a blunt mill file. Beginning at the tip of the ski and working toward the rear and 
with the file parallel with the side of the ski, remove only that amount of metal necessary to restore the 
square corner to the edge. Only in the event of local damage to the edge should any filing be done on the 
bottom of the edge. When the skis are not to be used for any period of time, the steel edges should 
receive a thin film of oil to prevent corrosion and skis stored in a dry place. 

END OF TASK 

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BOOT REPAIR 

CAUTION 

 

The insulation must be kept absolutely dry. If the insulation becomes wet, the 
protection afforded the wearer will be lost and may result in frostbite or other similar 
injuries to the wearer.   
 
Do not apply any all-based paint or advent-based polish to any part of the boot 
since paint or polish will cause the rubber to deteriorate. 

 

Emergency repair must be made promptly to a puncture, cut, tear, or hole; if possible, 
within 1 hour to prevent severe damage to the insulation. If a repair kit is not 
available, make a temporary repair by patching the hole with a cold tire patch or with 
tape, such as rubber tape, friction tape, or scotch tape.  Even chewing gum may 
serve as a temporary patch.  The important thing is to seal the hole as quickly as 
possible so that the insulation will not get wet. 

 
1.  Clean the area to be patched. 

2.  Buff the area thoroughly with abrasive. 

3.  Tear off the end of the tube of cement and apply a coat of cement to the area to be patched; allow to 

dry 3 to 5 minutes.  

4.  Twist and tear off backing from patch.  Do not touch fresh surface. 

5.  Press patch firmly in place. 

END OF TASK 
 
Air Release Valve Repair  
 
The insulated boot has either a self-closing or manually-operated air release valve, which provides for 
equalization of air pressure within the insulation chamber when the boot is worn at a high altitude. If 
pressure is felt, rotate the manually operated valve stem counter-clockwise or pull the thong on the self-
closing valve to release the air pressure in the boot insulation.  
 
1.  With a sharp, narrow bladed knife, make a shallow cut through the round rubber cover or patch which 

covers the valve assembly (Figure 3). The cut should be made at a relatively flat angle to prevent 
cutting through the boot.  

 

 

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Figure 3. Cutting the Valve Assembly. 

2.  Completely cut around the valve assembly just inside the printed instructions, and remove the valve 

assembly, being careful not damage the rubber of the boot. 

3.  Buff the rubber area on the boot where the old valve was removed with sandpaper or wire brush. 

4.  Spread an even coat of Schraeder No. 338 self-vulcanizing fluid on the buffed area.  

5.  Allow to dry thoroughly (about 5 minutes). 

6.  Remove the polyethylene protective covering from the base of the new valve. Do not touch the tacky 

surfaces. 

7.  Center the new valve assembly over the buffed area and press firmly in place. Roll the edges of the 

valve assembly with a hand roller. 

8.  Apply two coats of adhesive to the exposed surface of the hinge stay that has peeled, separated, or 

been broken. 

9.  Allow each coat of adhesive to dry until it becomes tacky (about 15 minutes). 

10.  Press together and clamp all surfaces; allow to dry for 1 hour. 

END OF TASK 

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Preparation for Reissue 

1.  Replace worn laces.  

2.  Single-lace the lace through the bottom eyelet, double-lace through the second eyelet, and single-

lace through the remaining eyelets. 

3.  Attach an instruction tag to the lace of the right boot. 

4.  Boots that have been prepared for reissue but are subject to temporary storage should have masking 

tape affixed over the valve to prevent entry of dirt, dust, and moisture, and to prevent the valve from 
rubbing against and abrading other boots. 

END OF TASK 

BOOT TEST 

After the boot has been inspected and found free of defects, test the boot for leaks and excess moisture 
in the insulation, using the following methods: 

Insulation Valve Test 

Use the test set, insulated boot, AN/GSM-83 to determine whether excess moisture is in the sealed 
insulation area. Operating and maintenance instructions are affixed to the tester. A boot rejected by the 
leak tester will be discarded. A boot accepted by the leak tester will be air-leak tested. 

Air-Leak Test  
 
A boot that has been accepted by the test set, insulated boot, AN/GSM-83 will be tested on the insulated 
boot Ieak tester for leaks within the insulation area as follows: 
 
1.  Remove laces and air release valve from boot. 

2.  Fill tank with water to a height about 4 inches (10.2 cm) below the top surface of the boot. (Water 

should be added to the tank at intervals to maintain this level.) Allow sufficient time for small scattered 
bubbles rising from the boot interior to dissipate. These bubbles are usually caused by trapped 
surface air escaping and do not necessarily indicate a leak 

3.  Start air compressor motor. 

4.  Close all six petcock valves. 

NOTE 

The six hoses, with needles, are used only for testing the black insulated boot which has 
no air release valve. 
 

5.  On the right side of the excess moisture tester unit is a pressure gage, hand valve, and rubber hose. 

Attached to the end of the rubber hose is a plexiglass spring-loaded device, used to hold open the 
self-closing, air release valves so that they may be filled with air. Hold the boot in the left hand, and 
using the right hand, place the end of the plexiglass unit over the valve assembly, The prong on the 
end of this unit will engage the head of the valve. Press downward to engage the valve, and release. 

6.  Turn hand valve on the tester unit to allow air to go into the boot. 

7.  As soon as the arrow on the pressure gage reaches the red mark on the pressure gage (indicating 7 

inches (178 mm) of water pressure), carefully disengage the plexiglass unit. The valve on the boot 
will close and the boot will have air in the insulating chamber and will be inflated slightly. Do not 
overfill; overfilling may damage the boot. 

8.  Place the boot in the water tank with the toe forward and under the toe bar to keep the boot from 

rising. Fill the inside of the boot with water to approximately 4 inches (10.2 cm) from the top edge of 
the boot. Three pairs of boots may be placed in the tank at the same time. 

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9.  Observe whether there is a continuous flow of air bubbles escaping from the outside or inside area of 

the boot; bubbles indicate a possible leak, Mark leak area with crayon. Small bubbles escaping from 
around the eyelets or edge of the boot or eyelet stay do not constitute a leak, because there is no 
insulation in this area. A boot with many pinhole leaks is considered beyond economic repair.  

10.  If there is a continuous flow of bubbles from the air release valve, replace the valve. 

11.  Remove the excess air in the insulation chamber of a boot to be repaired by opening the air release 

valve for a few seconds. 

12.  Boots manufactured in 1962 and after have a manually-operated screw type valve (Schraeder No. 

9917). To inflate these boots, open the valve slightly and insert the end of the air hose over the valve 
until desired pressure is obtained. Then close the valve. 

 

END OF WORK PACKAGE