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Ford Festiva. Instruction - part 60

VACUUM PUMP - DIESEL TROUBLE SHOOTING

VACUUM PUMP (DIESEL) TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART

MANUAL TRANSMISSION

MANUAL TRANSMISSION TROUBLE SHOOTING

MANUAL TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE TROUBLE SHOOTING

Clogged air bleeds

Remove restriction

EGR valve malfunction

Replace EGR valve

Restricted air cleaner filter

Replace air filter

Cracked or broken vacuum hoses

Replace vacuum hoses

Cracked or broken ignition wires

Replace ignition wires

Vacuum advance malfunction

Check unit and replace as

necessary

Defective or fouled spark plugs

Replace spark plugs

Ping or Spark Knock

Incorrect ignition timing

Reset ignition timing see

ENGINE PERFORMANCE

Distributor centrifugal or vacuum advance malfunction

Check operation and replace

as necessary

Carburetor setting too lean

Readjust mixture setting, see

ENGINE PERFORMANCE

Vacuum leak

Eliminate vacuum leak

EGR valve malfunction

Replace EGR valve

Poor Gasoline Mileage

Cracked or broken vacuum

Replace vacuum hoses hoses

Vacuum leaks

Repair vacuum leaks

Defective ignition wires

Replace wires

Incorrect choke setting

Readjust setting, see ENGINE

PERFORMANCE

Defective vacuum advance

Replace vacuum advance

Defective spark plugs

Replace spark plugs

Binding carburetor power piston

Eliminate binding

Dirt in carburetor jets

Clean and/or replace jets

Incorrect float adjustment

Readjust float setting, see

FUEL

Defective power valve

Replace power valve, see

ENGINE PERFORMANCE

Incorrect idle speed

Readjust idle speed

Engine Stalls

Improper float level

Readjust float level

Leaking needle valve and seat

Replace needle valve and seat

Vacuum leaks

Eliminate vacuum leaks

NOTE:

This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any unique situation or
individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble Shooting information is to provide a list
of common causes to problem symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.

NOTE:

Diesel engines mechanical diagnosis is the same as gasoline engines for items such as noisy valves,
bearings, pistons, etc. The following trouble shooting covers only items pertaining to diesel engines.

CONDITION & POSSIBLE CAUSE

CORRECTION

Excessive Noise

Loose pump-to-drive assembly screws

Tighten screws

Loose tube on pump assembly

Tighten tube

Valves not functioning properly

Replace valves

Oil Leakage

Loose end plug

Tighten end plug

Bad seal crimp

Remove and re-crimp

seal

NOTE:

Condition

Possible Cause

Noisy In Forward Gears

Low gear oil level, Loose bell housing bolts, Worn bearings or

gears

Clunk On Deceleration (FWD Only)

Loose engine mounts, Worn inboard CV joints, Worn differential

pinion shaft, Side gear hub counterbore in case worn oversize

POWERTRAIN

CLUTCH TROUBLE SHOOTING

BASIC CLUTCH TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART

Gear Clash When Shifting Forward Gears

Clutch Out Of Adjustment, Shift linkage damaged or out of

adjustment, Gears or synchronizers damaged, Low gear oil level

Transmission Noisy When Moving (RWD Only) Quiet In Neutral
With Clutch Engaged

Worn rear outputshaft bearing

Gear Rattle

Worn bearings, Wrong gear oil, Low gear oil, Worn gears

Steady Ticking At Idle (Increases With RPM)

Broken tooth on gear

Gear Clash When Shifting Forward Gears

Worn or broken synchronizers

Loud Whine In Reverse

Normal condition

(1)

Noise When Stepping On Clutch

Bad release bearing, Worn pilot bearing

Ticking Or Screeching As Clutch Is Engaged

Faulty release bearing, Uneven pressure plate fingers

Click Or Snap When Clutch Is Engaged

Worn clutch fork, Worn or broken front bearing retainer

Transmission Shifts Hard

Clutch not releasing, Shift mechanism binding, Clutch installed

backwards

Will Not Shift Into One Gear, Shifts Into All Others

Bent shift fork, Worn detent balls

Locked Into Gear, Cannot Shift

Clutch adjustment, Worn detent balls

Transmission Jumps Out Of Gear

Pilot bearing worn, Bent shift fork, Worn gear teeth or face,

Excessive gear train end play, Worn synchronizers, Missing detent

ball spring, Shift mechanism worn or out of adjustment, Engine or

transmission mount bolts loose or out of adjustment, Transmission

not aligned

Shift Lever Rattle

Worn shift lever or detents, Worn shift forks, Worn synchronizers

sleeve

Shift Lever Hops Under Acceleration

Worn engine or transmission mounts

(1)

Most units use spur cut gears in reverse and are noisy

NOTE:

CONDITION & POSSIBLE CAUSE

CORRECTION

Chattering or Grabbing

Incorrect clutch adjustment

Adjust clutch

Oil, grease or glaze on facings

Disassemble and clean or replace

Loose "U" joint flange

See DRIVE AXLES article

Worn input shaft spline

Replace input shaft

Binding pressure plate

Replace pressure plate

Binding release lever

See CLUTCH article

Binding clutch disc hub

Replace clutch disc

Unequal pressure plate contact

Replace worn/misaligned

components

Loose/bent clutch disc

Replace clutch disc

Incorrect transmission alignment

Realign transmission

Worn pressure plate, disc or flywheel

Replace damaged components

Broken or weak pressure springs

Replace pressure plate

Sticking clutch pedal

Lubricate clutch pedal & linkage

Incorrect clutch disc facing

Replace clutch disc

Engine loose in chassis

Tighten all mounting bolts

Failure to Release

Oil or grease on clutch facings

Clean or replace clutch clutch

disc

Incorrect release lever or pedal adjustment

See CLUTCH article

Worn or broken clutch facings

Replace clutch disc

Bent clutch disc or pressure plate

Replace damaged components

Clutch disc hub binding on input shaft

Clean or replace clutch disc

and/or input shaft

Binding pilot bearing

Replace pilot bearing

Sticking release bearing sleeve

Replace release bearing and/or

sleeve

Binding clutch cable

See CLUTCH article

Defective clutch master

Replace master cylinder

Defective clutch slave

Replace slave cylinder

Air in hydraulic system

Bleed hydraulic system

Rattling

Weak or broken release lever spring

Replace spring and check

alignment

Damaged pressure plate

Replace pressure plate

DRIVE AXLE - NOISE DIAGNOSIS

Unrelated Noises

Some driveline trouble symptoms are also common to the engine, transmission, wheel bearings, tires, and other parts of the vehicle. Ensure
cause of trouble actually is in the drive axle before adjusting, repairing, or replacing any of its parts.

Non-Drive Axle Noises

A few conditions can sound just like drive axle noise and have to be considered in pre-diagnosis. The 4 most common noises are exhaust, tires,
CV/universal joints and wheel trim rings.

In certain conditions, the pitch of the exhaust gases may e gear whine. At other times, it may be mistaken for a wheel bearing rumble.

Tires, especially radial and snow, can have a high-pitched tread whine or roar, similar to gear noise. Also, some non-standard tires with an
unusual tread construction may emit a roar or whine.

Defective CV/universal joints may cause clicking noises or excessive driveline play that can be improperly diagnosed as drive axle problems.

Trim and moldings also can cause a whistling or whining noise. Ensure none of these components are causing the noise before disassembling
the drive axle.

Gear Noise

Broken clutch return spring

Replace return spring

Worn splines on clutch disc or input shaft

Replace clutch disc and/or input

shaft

Worn clutch release bearing

Replace release bearing

Dry or worn pilot bearing

Lubricate or replace pilot bearing

Unequal release lever contact

Align or replace release lever

Incorrect pedal free play

Adjust free play

Warped or damaged clutch disc

Replace damaged components

Slipping

Pressure springs worn or

Release pressure plate

Oily, greasy or worn facings

Clean or replace clutch disc

Incorrect clutch alignment

Realign clutch assembly

Warped clutch disc or pressure plate

Replace damaged components

Binding release levers or clutch pedal

Lubricate and/or replace release

components

Squeaking

Worn or damaged release

Replace release bearing

Dry or worn pilot or release bearing

Lubricate or replace assembly

Pilot bearing turning in crankshaft

Replace pilot bearing and/or

crankshaft

Worn input shaft bearing

Replace bearing and seal

Incorrect transmission alignment

Realign transmission

Dry release fork between pivot

Lubricate release fork and pivot

Heavy and/or Stiff Pedal

Sticking release bearing sleeve

Replace release bearing and/or

sleeve

Dry or binding clutch pedal hub

Lubricate and align components

Floor mat interference with pedal

Lay mat flat in proper area

Dry or binding ball/fork pivots

Lubricate and align components

Faulty clutch cable

Replace clutch cable

Noisy Clutch Pedal

Faulty interlock switch

Replace interlock switch

Self-adjuster ratchet noise

Lubricate or replace self-adjuster

Speed control interlock switch

Lubricate or replace interlock

switch

Clutch Pedal Sticks Down

Binding clutch cable

See CLUTCH article

Springs weak in pressure plate

Replace pressure plate

Binding in clutch linkage

Lubricate and free linkage

Noisy

Dry release bearing

Lubricate or replace release

bearing

Dry or worn pilot bearing

Lubricate or replace bearing

Worn input shaft bearing

Replace bearing

Transmission Click

Weak springs in pressure

Replace pressure plate plate

Release fork loose on ball stud

Replace release fork and/or

ball stud

Oil on clutch disc damper

Replace clutch disc

Broken spring in slave cylinder

Replace slave cylinder

A "howling" or "whining" noise from the ring and pinion gear can be caused by an improper gear pattern, gear damage, or improper bearing
preload. It can occur at various speeds and driving conditions, or it can be continuous.

Before disassembling axle to diagnose and correct gear ke sure that tires, exhaust, and vehicle trim have been checked as possible causes.

Chuckle

This is a particular rattling noise that sounds like a stick against the spokes of a spinning bicycle wheel. It occurs while decelerating from 40
MPH and usually can be heard until vehicle comes to a complete stop. The frequency varies with the speed of the vehicle.

A chuckle that occurs on the driving phase is usually caused ive clearance due to differential gear wear, or by a damaged tooth on the coast
side of the pinion or ring gear. Even a very small tooth nick or a ridge on the edge of a gear tooth is enough the cause the noise.

This condition can be corrected simply by cleaning the gear tooth nick or ridge with a small grinding wheel. If either gear is damaged or scored
badly, the gear set must be replaced. If metal has broken loose, the carrier and housing must be cleaned to remove particles that could cause
damage.

Knock

This is very similar to a chuckle, though it may be louder, and occur on acceleration or deceleration. Knock can be caused by a gear tooth that
is damaged on the drive side of the ring and pinion gears. Ring gear bolts that are hitting the carrier casting can cause knock. Knock can also be
due to excessive end play in the axle shafts.

Clunk

Clunk is a metallic noise heard when an automatic transmission is engaged in Reverse or Drive, or when throttle is applied or released. It is
caused by backlash somewhere in the driveline, but not necessarily in the axle. To determine whether driveline clunk is caused by the axle,
check the total axle backlash as follows:

1. Raise vehicle on a frame or twinpost hoist so that drive wheels are free. Clamp a bar between axle companion flange and a part of the

frame or body so that flange cannot move.

2. On conventional drive axles, lock the left wheel to keep it from turning. On all models, turn the right wheel slowly until it is felt to be in

Drive condition. Hold a chalk marker on side of tire about 12" from center of wheel. Turn wheel in the opposite direction until it is
again felt to be in Drive condition.

3. Measure the length of the chalk mark, which is the total axle backlash. If backlash is one inch or less, drive axle is not the source of

clunk noise.

Bearing Whine

Bearing whine is a high-pitched sound similar to a whistle. It is usually caused by malfunctioning pinion bearings. Pinion bearings operate at
drive shaft speed. Roller wheel bearings may whine in a similar manner if they run completely dry of lubricant. Bearing noise will occur at all
driving speeds. This distinguishes it from gear whine, which usually comes and goes as speed changes.

Bearing Rumble

Bearing rumble sounds like marbles being tumbled. It is usually caused by a malfunctioning wheel bearing. The lower pitch is because the
wheel bearing turns at only about 1/3 of drive shaft speed.

Chatter On Turns

This is a condition where the entire front or rear of vehicle vibrates when vehicle is moving. The vibration is plainly felt as well as heard. Extra
differential thrust washers installed during axle repair can cause a condition of partial lock-up that creates this chatter.

Axle Shaft Noise

Axle shaft noise is similar to gear noise and pinion bearing whine. Axle shaft bearing noise will normally distinguish itself from gear noise by
occurring in all driving modes (Drive, cruise, coast and float), and will persist with transmission in Neutral while vehicle is moving at problem
speed.

If vehicle displays this noise condition, remove suspect parts, replace wheel seals and install a new set of bearings. Re-evaluate vehicle for
noise before removing any internal components.

Vibration

Vibration is a high-frequency trembling, shaking or grinding condition (felt or heard) that may be constant or variable in level and can occur
during the total operating speed range of the vehicle.

The types of vibrations that can be felt in the vehicle can d into 3 main groups:



Vibrations of various unbalanced rotating parts of the vehicle.



Resonance vibrations of the body and frame structures caused by rotating of unbalanced parts.



Tip-in moans of resonance vibrations from stressed engine or exhaust system mounts or driveline flexing modes.

DRIVE AXLE - RWD TROUBLE SHOOTING

NOTE:

DRIVE AXLE - NOISE DIAGNOSIS

under POWERTRAIN.

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