Dodge Dakota (R1). Manual - part 514

OPERATION

The crankshaft seals prevent oil from leaking from

around the crankshaft, either from the rear of the
engine or from the engine front cover.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING—REAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS

Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the

source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.

If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal

area:

(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing

cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:

(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates

seal leakage or crankshaft damage.

(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,

possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-

case as outlined in (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)

CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).

(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the

crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.

CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.

(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft

rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service Diagnosis—Mechani-
cal,

under

the

Oil

Leak

row,

for

components

inspections on possible causes and corrections.

(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate

corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE

BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT

OIL

SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL), for proper replacement
procedures.

REMOVAL

The service seal is a two piece, Viton seal. The

upper seal half can be installed with crankshaft
removed from engine or with crankshaft installed.
When a new upper seal is installed, install a new
lower seal. The lower seal half can be installed only
with the rear main bearing cap removed.

UPPER SEAL —CRANKSHAFT REMOVED

(1) Remove the crankshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/

ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT - REMOVAL). Dis-
card the old upper seal.

UPPER SEAL—CRANKSHAFT INSTALLED

(1) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-

BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).

(2) Remove the oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/

LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).

(3) Remove the rear main bearing cap. Remove

and discard the old lower oil seal.

(4) Carefully remove and discard the old upper oil

seal.

LOWER SEAL

(1) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-

BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).

(2) Remove the oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/

LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).

(3) Remove the rear main bearing cap and discard

the old lower seal.

INSTALLATION

The service seal is a two piece, Viton seal. The

UPPER SEAL —CRANKSHAFT REMOVED

(1) Clean the cylinder block rear cap mating sur-

face. Be sure the seal groove is free of debris. Check
for burrs at the oil hole on the cylinder block mating
surface to rear cap.

(2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine

oil.

(3) Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with

the white paint facing toward the rear of the engine.

(4) Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
(5) Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine

oil.

(6) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into

the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards
the rear of the engine.

(7) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in.) drop of Mopar

t Gasket

Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main

9 - 244

ENGINE 5.9L

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)

bearing cap (Fig. 32). DO NOT over-apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application.

(8) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-

ment dowel, and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than two times for proper engagement.

(9) Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main

bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately
tighten to 115 N·m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.

(10) Install oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-

BRICATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).

(11) Apply Mopar

t GEN II Silicone Rubber Adhe-

sive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap-to-block
joint to provide cap to block and oil pan sealing (Fig.
33) . Apply enough sealant so that a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.

(12) Install new front crankshaft oil seal (Refer to

9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - FRONT - INSTALLATION).

(13) Immediately install the oil pan (Refer to 9 -

ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL

PAN

INSTALLA-

TION).

UPPER SEAL—CRANKSHAFT INSTALLED

(1) Clean the cylinder block mating surfaces before

oil seal installation. Check for burrs at the oil hole on
the cylinder block mating surface to rear cap.

(2) Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine

oil. To allow ease of installation of the seal, loosen at

least the two main bearing caps forward of the rear
bearing cap.

(3) Rotate the new upper seal into the cylinder

block, being careful not to shave or cut the outer sur-
face of the seal. To ensure proper installation, use the
installation tool provided with the kit. Install the
new seal with the white paint facing toward the rear
of the engine.

(4) Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into

the bearing cap with the white paint facing toward
the rear of the engine.

(5) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in.) drop of Mopar

t Gasket

Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main
bearing cap (Fig. 32). DO NOT over-apply sealant or
allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assem-
ble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after
sealant application. Be sure the white paint faces
toward the rear of the engine.

(6) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-

ment dowel, and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than two times for proper engagement.

(7) Install the rear main bearing cap with cleaned

and oiled cap bolts. Alternately tighten ALL cap bolts
to 115 N·m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.

(8) Install oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-

CATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).

(9) Apply Mopar

t GEN II Silicone Rubber Adhe-

sive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap-to-block
joint to provide cap-to-block and oil pan sealing (Fig.
33). Apply enough sealant until a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.

Fig. 32 Sealant Application to Bearing Cap

1 - MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT SLOTS
2 - MOPAR

GASKET MAKER (OR EQUIVALENT)

3 - CAP ALIGNMENT SLOT
4 - REAR MAIN BEARING CAP

Fig. 33 Apply Sealant to Bearing Cap-to-Block Joint

1 - MOPAR

GEN II SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE SEALANT

NOZZLE TIP
2 - SEALANT APPLIED
3 - CYLINDER BLOCK
4 - REAR MAIN BEARING CAP

ENGINE 5.9L

9 - 245

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)

(10) Immediately install the oil pan (Refer to 9 -

ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL

PAN

INSTALLA-

TION).

LOWER SEAL

(1) Clean the rear main cap mating surfaces

including the oil pan gasket groove.

(2) Carefully install a new upper seal. Refer to

UPPER SEAL—CRANKSHAFT INSTALLED .

(3) Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine

oil.

(4) Install a new lower seal in bearing cap with

the white paint facing the rear of engine.

(5) Apply 5 mm (0.20 in.) drop of Mopar

t Gasket

(6) To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, align-

ment dowel, and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess
material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap
more than two times for proper engagement.

(7) Install the rear main bearing cap with cleaned

and oiled cap bolts. Alternately tighten the cap bolts
to 115 N·m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.

(8) Install oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-

CATION/OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION).

(9) Apply Mopar

t GEN II Silicone Rubber Adhe-

sive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap-to-block
joint to provide cap to block and oil pan sealing.
Apply enough sealant so that a small amount is
squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess seal-
ant off the oil pan seal groove.

(10) Immediately install the oil pan (Refer to 9 -

ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL

PAN

INSTALLA-

TION).

DISTRIBUTOR BUSHING

REMOVAL

(1) Remove distributor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/

IGNITION CONTROL/DISTRIBUTOR - REMOVAL).

(2) Remove the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -

ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE

MANIFOLD

REMOVAL).

(3) Insert Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing Puller

Tool C-3052 into old bushing and thread down until a
tight fit is obtained (Fig. 34).

(4) Hold puller screw and tighten puller nut until

bushing is removed.

INSTALLATION

(1) Slide new bushing over burnishing end of Dis-

tributor Drive Shaft Bushing Driver/Burnisher Tool
C-3053. Insert the tool and bushing into the bore.

(2) Drive bushing and tool into position, using a

hammer (Fig. 35).

(3) As the burnisher is pulled through the bushing,

the bushing is expanded tight in the block and bur-
nished to correct size (Fig. 36). DO NOT ream this
bushing.

CAUTION: This procedure MUST be followed when
installing a new bushing or seizure to shaft may
occur.

(4) Install the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -

ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE

MANIFOLD

INSTALLATION).

(5) Install the distributor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-

CAL/IGNITION

CONTROL/DISTRIBUTOR

INSTALLATION).

Fig. 34 Distributor Driveshaft Bushing Removal

1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3052
2 - BUSHING

Fig. 35 Distributor Driveshaft Bushing Installation

1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3053
2 - BUSHING

9 - 246

ENGINE 5.9L

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR (Continued)

HYDRAULIC LIFTERS

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING—HYDRAULIC
TAPPETS

Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-

rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.

Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal

operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.

OIL LEVEL

HIGH

If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible

for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.

LOW

Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air.

When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length,
which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on
intake side of oil pump through which air can be
drawn will create the same tappet action. Check the
lubrication system from the intake strainer to the
pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap.
When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be
intermittent or constant, and usually more than one
tappet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks have
been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run

engine for a sufficient time to allow all of the air
inside the tappets to be bled out.

TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS

(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate

engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.

(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect

noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.

NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.

(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a

heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the
plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.
The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is
caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by for-
eign particles wedged between the plunger and the
tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in
the down position. This heavy click will be accompa-
nied by excessive clearance between the valve stem
and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet
assembly should be removed for inspection and clean-
ing.

(4) The valve train generates a noise very much

like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it’s probably not the tappets.

LEAK-DOWN TEST

After cleaning and inspection, test each tappet for

specified leak-down rate tolerance to ensure zero-lash
operation (Fig. 37).

Swing the weighted arm of the hydraulic valve tap-

pet tester away from the ram of the Universal Leak-
Down Tester .

(1) Place a 7.925-7.950 mm (0.312-0.313 inch)

diameter ball bearing on the plunger cap of the tap-
pet.

(2) Lift the ram and position the tappet (with the

ball bearing) inside the tester cup.

(3) Lower the ram, then adjust the nose of the ram

until it contacts the ball bearing. DO NOT tighten
the hex nut on the ram.

(4) Fill the tester cup with hydraulic valve tappet

test oil until the tappet is completely submerged.

(5) Swing the weighted arm onto the push rod and

pump the tappet plunger up and down to remove air.

Fig. 36 Burnishing Distributor Driveshaft Bushing

1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3053
2 - BUSHING

ENGINE 5.9L

9 - 247

DISTRIBUTOR BUSHING (Continued)

Content .. 512 513 514 515 ..