11 •4 Bodywork and fittings
is used in similar fashion to the bodywork filler
used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it with
epoxy filler, he will be left with the problem of
finding a suitable paint for finishing which is
compatible with the type of plastic used. At
one time, the use of a universal paint was not
possible, owing to the complex range of
plastics encountered in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally
speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber
satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to
obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which
consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer
and coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the
method of use is to first apply the pre-primer
to the component concerned, and allow it to
dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is
applied, and left to dry for about an hour
before finally applying the special-coloured
top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured
component, where the paint will flex with the
plastic or rubber, a property that standard
paint does not normally posses.
1 Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the
handbrake and chock the rear wheels. Raise
the front of the vehicle and rest it securely on
axle stands; refer to "Jacking, towing and
wheel changing" for guidance.
2 Where applicable, remove the retaining
screws, then lower the undertray and brake
cooling ducts away from the vehicle; note that
the front of the undertray is clipped onto the
trailing edge of the valance moulding.
3 Remove the retaining screws, and separate
the valance moulding from the bumper. Where
fitted, disconnect the wiring for the
driving/foglights and ambient air temperature
4 Slacken the two through-bolts that secure
the bumper to the front subframe.
5 Disengage the ends of the bumper from the
body side mouldings, then pull the bumper
away from the front of the vehicle.
6 The bumper outer moulding can then be
separated from the inner metal core, by
removing the securing screws.
7 Refit the bumper by reversing the removal
procedure; ensure that the lugs protruding
from the front wing engage with the
corresponding recesses in the ends of the
1 Park the vehicle on a level surface, and
apply the handbrake.
2 Working directly behind the rear
wheelarches, remove the two screws that
secure the lower edges of the rear valance to
the side bumper mouldings.
3 Open the boot/tailgate, and lift the panel
above the spare wheel compartment, securing
it in the raised position. Prise the rubber
sealing strip away from the edge of the
loadspace, to expose the edge of the carpet
4 Pull the carpet away from the area behind
the rear light cluster, guiding the luggage
securing eyelet through the hole in the carpet.
5 The bumper assembly is secured by four
bolts; two on either side of the vehicle, directly
below the light clusters. The upper bolts also
act as mounting points for the luggage securing
eyelets. The lower bolts are concealed behind
plastic panels in the floor of the loadspace,
which can be prised out to expose the retaining
nuts. Remove all four nuts, supporting the
bumper as the last nut is removed.
6 Pull the bumper assembly squarely away
from the body, and recover the rubber
7 Refit the bumper assembly by reversing the
removal procedure, tightening the mounting
Warning: It is essential that the
help of an assistant is enlisted
during this operation.
1 Open the bonnet, and prop it up with a stout
2 Disconnect the washer jet hoses at the
3 Lever out the pins from the hinges on both
sides of the bonnet; maintain a firm grip on the
bonnet as the pins are released, to prevent it
from tilting forwards.
4 Using a screwdriver, prise the clip from the
joint at the top of each bonnet support strut.
Separate the joint, and recover the washers.
Allow the struts to swivel forward and rest on
5 With the help of your assistant, lift off the
bonnet and set it down on its edge, using a
dust sheet to protect the paintwork.
6 Refit the bonnet by reversing the removal
7 Remove the four screws that secure the
grille to the front crossmember; these are
accessed through the front of the grille,
adjacent to the headlight units, and along the
top edge of the grille. Note when refitting that
the inside bottom edge of the grille has plastic
locating lugs at each end, which engage with
dowels, adjacent to the headlight units (see
8.7 The inside bottom edge of the grille has
plastic locating lugs at each end (arrowed)
1 Refer to Section 8 and remove the front
2 Refer to Chapter 12 and remove the right-
hand indicator light unit.
3 Working underneath the bonnet locks,
release the stop nipples from the end of the
release cable inner at each lock.
4 Unscrew the cable clip from above the
right-hand headlight unit.
5 Remove the clips that secure the extension
cable to the underside of the front
6 Working inside the cabin, remove the
driver's door sill scuff plate, and the trim panel
Where serious damage has occurred, or
large areas need renewal due to neglect, it
means that complete new panels will need
welding-in, and this is best left to
professionals. If the damage is due to impact,
it will also be necessary to check completely
the alignment of the bodyshell, and this can
only be carried out accurately by a Saab
dealer, using special jigs. If the body is left
misaligned, it is primarily dangerous, as the
car will not handle properly, and secondly,
uneven stresses will be imposed on the
steering, suspension and possibly
transmission, causing abnormal wear, or
complete failure, particularly to such items as