Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, Plymouth Breeze Haynes. Manual - part 20

4-18

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

Before trying to disassemble any

exhaust components, spray the fasteners
with a penetrating oil to help ease removal. If
the

exhaust

system

components are

extremely corroded or rusted together, weld-
ing equipment will probably be required to
remove them. The convenient way to accom-
plish this is to have a muffler repair shop
remove the corroded sections with a cutting
torch. If, however, you want to save money
by doing it yourself (and you don't have a
welding outfit with a cutting torch), simply cut
off the old components with a hacksaw. If
you have compressed air, special pneumatic
cutting chisels can also be used. If you
decide to tackle the job at home, be sure to
wear safety goggles to protect your eyes

from metal chips and work gloves to protect
your hands.
4

Here are some simple guidelines to fol -

low when repairing the exhaust system:

a) Work from the back to the front when

removing exhaust system components.

b) Apply penetrating oil to the exhaust sys-

tem component fasteners to make them
easier to remove.

c) Use new gaskets, hangers and clamps

when installing exhaust systems compo-
nents.

d) Apply anti-seize compound to the

threads of all exhaust system fasteners
at reassembly.

e) Be sure to allow sufficient clearance

between newly installed parts and all

points on the underbody to avoid over-

heating the floor pan and possibly dam-
aging the interior carpet and insulation.
Pay particularly close attention to the
catalytic converter and heat shield.

Catalytic converter

Warning: The converter gets extremely hot
during operation, and can remain very hot for
hours after the engine has been turned off.
Make sure it has cooled down before you

touch it.
Note: See Chapter 6 for more information on

the catalytic converter.
5

Periodically inspect the heat shield for

cracks, dents and loose or missing fasteners.
6

Remove the heat shield and inspect the

converter for cracks or other damage.
7

If the converter must be replaced,

detach the exhaust system from the exhaust
manifold. Loosen the rear band clamp at the
resonator and separate the converter from
the exhaust system.
8

Installation is the reverse of removal. Be

sure to use new gaskets and tighten the fas-
teners securely.

Chapter 5

Engine electrical systems

Contents

Section

Alternator - removal and installation .................................................... 11

Battery cables - check and replacement...............................................3
Battery check, maintenance and charging ....................... See Chapter 1
Battery - emergency jump starting ........................................................ 2
Battery - removal and installation .......................................................... 4

Charging system - check..................................................................... 10
Charging system - general information and precautions .......................9
CHECK ENGINE light ....................................................... See Chapter 6
Distributor (V6 engine only) - removal and installation ...........................8
Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement .................See Chapter 1

Section

General information, precautions and battery disconnection ................1

Ignition coil - check and replacement ....................................................7

Ignition system - check..........................................................................6
Ignition system - general information .................................................... 5
Spark plug replacement ....................................................See Chapter 1
Spark plug wire check ...................................................... See Chapter 1
Starter motor - in-vehicle check.......................................................... 13
Starter motor - removal and installation ...............................................14
Starting system - general information and precautions.......................12

Specifications

General

Battery voltage........................................................................................
Engine firing order

Four-cylinder engines ........................................................................

V6 engine...........................................................................................

ignition timing..........................................................................................

Ignition system

ignition coil resistance (approximate, at 70 to 80-degrees F)

Four-cylinder engines

Primary resistance........................................................................
Secondary resistance...................................................................

V6 engine

Primary resistance........................................................................
Secondary resistance...................................................................

Spark plug wire resistance (approximate)

Four-cylinder engines

Wires 1 and 4................................................................................
Wires 2 and 3................................................................................

V6 engine

Minimum.......................................................................................
Maximum......................................................................................

Torque specifications

Distributor hold-down nuts ......................................................................
Starter motor mounting bolts..................................................................

12 volts (approximate)

1-3-4-2
1-2-3-4-5-6
Not adjustable

0.51 to 0.61 ohms

11,000 to 13,500 ohms

0.6 to 0.8 ohms
12,000 to 18,000 ohms

3,500 to 4,900 ohms
2,950 to 4,100 ohms

250 ohms per inch (3,000 ohms per foot)
560 ohms per inch (6,700 ohms per foot)

108 in-lbs

40 ft-lbs

5-2

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

General information, precautions
and battery disconnection

General information

The engine electrical systems include all

ignition, charging and starting components.
Because of their engine-related functions,

these components are discussed separately
from body electrical devices such as the

lights, the instruments, etc. (which are
included in Chapter 12).

Precautions

Always observe the following precautions

when working on the electrical system:

(a) Be extremely careful when servicing

engine electrical components. They are
easily damaged if checked, connected
or handled improperly.

(b) Never leave the ignition switched on for

long periods of time when the engine is
not running.

(c) Don't disconnect the battery cables

while the engine is running.

(d) Maintain correct polarity when connect-

ing battery cables from another vehicle
during jump starting - see the "Booster
battery Gump) starting" section at the
front of this manual.

(e) Always disconnect the negative cable

first, and reconnect it last, or the battery
may be shorted by the tool being used
to loosen the cable clamps.
It's also a good idea to review the

safety-related information regarding the
engine electrical systems located in the
"Safety first!" section at the front of this man-
ual, before beginning any operation included
in this Chapter.

Battery disconnection

Refer to illustrations 1.4a and 1.4b

The battery on these vehicles is located

behind the left fender, in front of the left front
wheel. Since the battery terminals cannot be
easily accessed, the manufacturer has pro-
vided a remote ground terminal on the left
shock tower and also a remote positive ter-
minal for jump starting purposes. To discon-
nect the battery for service procedures
requiring power to be cut from the vehicle,
remove the nut and detach the negative

cable from the ground stud on the strut
tower, then press the hole in the side of the
cable insulator over the stud (see illustra-
tions). This will isolate the cable end and pre-
vent it from accidentally coming into contact
with ground.

Several systems on the vehicle require

battery power to be available at all times,

either to ensure their continued operation
(such as the clock) or to maintain control unit
memories (such as that in the engine man-
agement system's Powertrain Control Mod-
ule [PCM]) which would be wiped out if the
battery were to be disconnected. Therefore,
whenever the battery is to be disconnected,

1.4a To disconnect battery power from

the vehicle, remove the nut from the

ground stud on the left strut

tower (arrow) .. .

first note the following to ensure that there
are no unforeseen consequences of this
action:

(a) First, on any vehicle with central locking,

it is a wise precaution to remove the key
from the ignition and to keep it with you,
so that it does not get locked in if the
central locking should engage acciden-
tally when the battery is reconnected!

(b) The engine management system's PCM

will lose the information stored in its
memory when the battery is discon-
nected. This includes idling and operat-
ing values, and any fault codes detected
(see Chapter 6). Whenever the battery is
disconnected, the information relating to
idle speed control and other operating
values will have to be re-programmed
into the unit's memory. The PCM does
this by itself, but until then, there may be
surging, hesitation, erratic idle and a
generally inferior level of performance.
To allow the PCM to relearn these val-
ues, start the engine and run it as close
to idle speed as possible until it reaches
its normal operating temperature, then
run it for approximately two minutes at

1200 rpm. Next, drive the vehicle as far

as necessary - approximately 5 miles of

varied driving conditions is usually suffi-
cient - to complete the relearning pro-
cess.
Devices known as "memory-savers" can

be used to avoid some of the above prob-
lems. Precise details vary according to the
device used. Typically, it is plugged into the
cigarette lighter, and is connected by its own
wires to a spare battery; the vehicle's own
battery is then disconnected from the electri-
cal system, leaving the "memory-saver" to
pass sufficient current to maintain audio unit

security codes and PCM memory values, and
also to run permanently live circuits such as
the clock, all the while isolating the battery in
the event of a short-circuit occurring while

1.4b . . . then detach the cable and push

the hole in the cable insulator over

the stud

work is carried out.

Warning: Some of these devices allow a con-
siderable amount of current to pass, which
can mean that many of the vehicle's systems
are still operational when the main battery is
disconnected. If a "memory-saver" is used,
ensure that the circuit concerned is actually

"dead" before carrying out any work on it!

Battery - emergency jump
starting

Refer to the Booster battery Gump) start-

ing procedure at the front of this manual.

Battery cables - check and

replacement

Periodically inspect the entire length of

each battery cable for damage, cracked or
burned insulation and corrosion. Poor battery
cable connections can cause starting prob-
lems and decreased engine performance.
2

Check the cable-to-terminal connec-

tions at the ends of the cables for cracks,
loose wire strands and corrosion. The pres-
ence of white, fluffy deposits under the insu-
lation at the cable terminal connection at the
battery is a sign that the cable is corroded
and should be replaced. Check the terminals
for distortion, missing mounting bolts and
corrosion.
3

When removing the cables, always dis-

connect the negative cable first and hook it
up last or the battery may be shorted by the
tool used to loosen the cables. Even if only
the positive cable is being replaced, be sure
to disconnect the negative cable from the
ground terminal on the left shock tower first!
4

Disconnect the old cables from the bat-

tery (see Section 4), then trace each of them

to their remote terminals and detach them.
Note the routing of each cable to ensure cor-
rect installation.
5

Check the cables that connect the

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5-3

4.3 Removing the battery cover/splash

shield from the left front wheel well

4.4 Always disconnect the negative

battery cable first and attach it last!

4.5a Removing the battery strap and

hold-down bracket bolt

4.5b Removing the battery strap upper nut

4.7 Position the cables out of the way and slide the battery out of

the fenderwell - be careful, it's heavy!

starter solenoid and ground terminals to the
remote terminals. If they require replacement,
note the routing of each cable to ensure cor-
rect installation and detach them.
6

If you are replacing a cable, take it along

with you when purchasing a new one. It is
vitally important that you replace it with an
identical part. Cables have characteristics
that make them easy to identify: positive
cables are usually red and larger in cross-
section; ground cables are usually black and
smaller in cross-section.
7

Clean all connections with a wire brush

to remove rust, oxidation and corrosion.
Apply a light coat of petroleum jelly or grease
to all fastener threads to prevent future corro-
sion.
8

Attach the cable to it's proper connec-

tion and tighten the mounting fastener
securely. Apply a light coat of petroleum jelly
or grease to the connection to seal it and help
prevent future corrosion.
9

Before connecting a new cable to the

battery, make sure that it reaches the battery
without having to be stretched.
10

Connect the positive cable first, fol-

lowed by the negative cable.

Battery - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 4.3, 4.4, 4.5a, 4.5b and
4.7
Warning: Certain precautions must be fol-
lowed when checking and servicing the bat-
tery. Hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive,
is produced by the battery. Keep lighted
tobacco, open flames, bare light bulbs or
other possible sources of ignition away from
the battery. Furthermore, the electrolyte
inside the battery is sulfuric acid which is
highly corrosive and can burn your skin and
cause severe injury to your eyes. Always wear
eye protection! It will also destroy clothing

and ruin painted surfaces.

Note: The battery on these vehicles is located

inside the fenderwell of the left front fender
and can be removed without removing the

wheel. However, removing the wheel makes
the job much easier.
1

Disconnect the negative battery cable

from the ground stud on the left shock tower

(see Section 1).
2

Loosen the left front wheel lug nuts,

raise the vehicle and support it securely on

jackstands. Remove the wheel.

Remove the battery cover/splash shield

from the wheel well by turning the four plastic
fasteners 1/4-turn counterclockwise (see

illustration).
4

Using a box-end wrench, disconnect

the negative cable from the battery first, then
the positive cable (see illustration).

Remove the bolt and nut securing the

battery strap and hold-down bracket, then
remove the them (see illustrations).

Vehicles manufactured with the cold

weather package option (Alaska, Canada and

northern USA) are equipped with a battery
blanket heater. If equipped, disconnect the
blanket heater electrical connector.

Remove the battery from the vehicle

(see illustration). Be careful - it's heavy.

Note: Battery handling tools are available at

most auto parts stores for a reasonable price.

They make it easier to remove and carry the

battery.
8

If equipped, remove the battery blanket

heater from around the battery.
9

While the battery is removed, inspect

the tray, strap, hold-down bracket and
related fasteners for corrosion or damage.

10 If corrosion is evident on the battery

5-4

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

6.4b Distributor

terminal identification

Camshaft position
sensor terminals

Coil primary
terminals

Coil secondary
terminal (hi-tension
tower)

6.4a Distributor cap and rotor - V6 engine only

Coil terminal

Rotor

Rotor button

6.6 Using a calibrated ignition tester to visually verify spark is

reaching the spark plugs - If the engine starts during this check,

do not let it run more than 1 minute or damage to the catalytic

converter may occur

6.9 On four-cylinder engines, connect a test light between the

coil electrical connector center terminal and one of the outer

terminals. Crank the engine. The test light should blink on-and-off

tray, unscrew the mounting bolts and remove
it. Use baking soda/water solution to clean
corroded parts to prevent further oxidation.
Repaint parts as necessary using rust resis-
tant paint.

Clean and service the battery and

cables (see Chapter 1).
12 If you are replacing the battery, make
sure you purchase one that is identical to
yours, with the same dimensions, amperage
rating, cold cranking amps rating, etc. Make
sure it is fully charged prior to installation in
the vehicle.
13 Installation is the reverse of removal.
Make sure you install the negative cable last.
14

After connecting the cables to the bat-

tery, apply a light coating of petroleum jelly or
grease to the connections to help prevent
corrosion.
15

Tighten the wheel lug nuts to the torque

given in the Chapter 1 Specifications.

Ignition system - general
information

All models are equipped with an elec-

tronic ignition system. The ignition system

consists of the ignition switch, the battery,

the coil, the primary (low voltage) and sec-

ondary (high voltage) wiring circuits, the igni-

tion wires and spark plugs, the camshaft
position sensor, the crankshaft position sen-
sor and the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM). The PCM controls the ignition timing
and spark advance characteristics for the
engine. The ignition timing is not adjustable.

The crankshaft sensor and camshaft

sensor generate voltage pulses that are sent

to the PCM. The PCM then determines the

crankshaft position, injector sequence and
ignition timing. The PCM supplies battery

voltage to the ignition coil through the Auto-

matic Shutdown Relay (ASD). The PCM also
controls the ground circuit for the coil.

If the PCM does not receive a signal

from the crankshaft or camshaft position sen-

sors, the PCM signals the ASD relay and fuel
pump relay to shut down the ignition and fuel
delivery systems respectively. Refer to Chap-

ter 6 for testing and replacement procedures
for the crankshaft and camshaft sensors.

On four-cylinder engines, the secondary

ignition system is controlled by energizing the

coil drivers in the proper firing order. On V6
engines, a conventional type distributor with
a rotor is used to send the ignition voltage to
the proper cylinder in the firing order. On V6
engines, the ignition coil and camshaft posi-
tion sensor are part of the distributor, which
is located on the rear of the engine on the
right side (rear) cylinder head and driven by
the camshaft (see Section 8).

Ignition system - check

Refer to illustrations 6.4a, 6.4b, 6.6 and 6.9
Warning: Because of the very high voltage
generated by the ignition system (approxi-
mately 40,000 volts), extreme care should be
taken whenever an operation is performed
involving ignition components. This not only
includes the coil and spark plug wires, but
related items connected to the system as
well, such as the electrical connectors,
tachometer and any test equipment.

With the ignition switch turned to the

"ON" position, a glowing instrument panel
"Battery" light or "Oil Pressure" light is a
basic check for battery voltage supply to the
ignition system and PCM.
2

First, check all ignition wiring connec-

tions for tightness, cuts, corrosion or any
other signs of a bad connection.
3

Check the condition of the spark plug

wires (see Chapter 1). Using an ohmmeter.
measure the resistance of each spark plug
wire and compare the measured value to the
resistance value listed in this Chapter's
Specifications. A bad spark plug wire or poor
connection at the spark plug or coil (four-
cylinder engines) or distributor cap (V6
engine) could also result in a misfire.
4

On V6 engines, remove the distributo

cap and rotor (see Steps 7 thru 10 in Sec-

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5-5

7.4 Test each coil's primary resistance by connecting one probe

of the ohmmeter to the center terminal and the other probe to

each end terminal. The primary resistance of each coil should be

within specifications

tion 7). Inspect the cap and rotor for mois-
ture, cracks, erosion, carbon tracks, worn

rotor button or other damage (see illustra-

tion). Remove one spark plug wire at a time
from the cap (so they don't get mixed up) and

check the terminals inside the cap for corro-
sion, which will appear as a white crusty
powder (slight corrosion can be removed

with a screwdriver or round wire brush). On
the distributor cap, use an ohmmeter to mea-

sure the resistance between the rotor button
and the coil terminal. The resistance should
be approximately 5,000 ohms. On the distrib-
utor, inspect the coil hi-tension tower for
cracks, carbon tracks or corrosion (see illus-

tration). If the coil is found to be defective,
the entire distributor must be replaced. If the

cap or rotor is defective and the ignition com-
ponents (including spark plugs) have been in

service for more than 60,000 miles, the man-

ufacturer recommends replacing all ignition
components at the same time.

If the engine turns over but won't start,

disconnect the number 1 spark plug wire

(four-cylinder engines) or the number 2 spark
plug wire (V6 engines) (see Chapter 1 if nec-

essary) and install a calibrated ignition tester

(available at most auto parts stores). Make

sure the tester is designed for Chrysler elec-
tronic ignition systems if a universal tester is

not available.

Connect the clip of the tester to a bolt or

metal bracket located on the engine (see illus-

tration). Note: If an ignition tester is not avail-
able, a good spark plug with the gap set to the
maximum tolerance can also be used. Ground
the threaded portion of the spark plug to the
engine. Crank the engine while observing the

ignition tester - if bright blue, well defined

sparks occur, sufficient voltage is reaching the
spark plug to fire it. Caution: If the engine
starts, do not run the engine for longer than
one minute during this test - the raw fuel

Check

escaping from the cylinder being tested may
cause damage to the catalytic converter.
7

On four-cylinder engines, perform this

check at the number 2 spark plug location
also. This will check the other ignition coil

7.5 Checking the secondary resistance of coil "1" - repeat the

test for coil "2". The secondary resistance of each coil should be

within specifications

inside the coil pack. Note: It is not necessary
to perform this check at another location on
V6 engines because that system uses a single
coil.
8

If spark is present, the coil is firing, how-

ever, the spark plugs themselves may be
fouled or damaged, so remove and check

them (see Chapter 1) or install new ones.

If no spark or intermittent sparks occur,

disconnect the coil electrical connector (see
illustration) and connect a test light to the
center terminal of the coil electrical connector
and one of the outer terminals on four-cylin-
der engines or across both harness terminals
on V6 engines (see illustration 6.4b).
10

With the test light placed where you can

see it from the driver's seat, crank the engine
and watch the test light. It should flash

on-and-off while the engine is cranking. If the

test light does not blink, check the wiring har-

ness for damage or a short. If the wiring is
OK, check the operation of the Automatic
Shutdown (ASD) relay (see Chapter 4). If nec-
essary, check the operation of the camshaft
and crankshaft position sensors (see Chapter
6). If the ASD relay and cam/crank sensors

check out OK, have the PCM diagnosed by a
dealer service department or other qualified

repair shop.
11

If voltage is present (light blinks), check

the ignition coil (see Section 7) and replace it

if necessary.
12 If these checks do not identify the prob-
lem, further diagnosis should be performed
by a dealer service department or other qual-
ified repair shop.

Ignition coil - check and

replacement

Four-cylinder engines

Refer to illustrations 7.4 and 7.5

Located inside the coil pack are two

individual ignition coils. Coil "1" supplies volt -

age for cylinders 1 and 4, while coil "2" sup-
plies voltage for cylinders 2 and 3.
2

Clearly label the spark plug wires and

detach them from the coil pack.
3

Disconnect the primary wiring electrical

connector from the coil pack.
4

Measure the each coil primary resis-

tance; connect an ohmmeter between the
center terminal (B+) and one of the outer ter-
minals and note the resistance (see illustra-
tion). Repeat the check with the probe con-
nected to the other outer terminal. Compare
the measured resistances with the coil pri-
mary resistance value listed in this Chapter's
Specifications. Replace the coil if the primary
resistance is out of tolerance.
5

Next, measure the secondary resistance

of each coil; connect an ohmmeter between
spark plug wire terminals 1 and 4 and note
the resistance (see illustration). Repeat the
check on terminals 2 and 3. Compare the
measured resistances with the secondary
resistance value listed in this Chapter's
Specifications. Replace the coil if the sec-
ondary resistance is out of tolerance.
6

Install the spark plug wires in their

proper locations and connect the primary
wiring electrical connector.

V6 engine

Remove the air cleaner assembly (see

Chapter 4).
8

Remove the EGR tube (see Chapter 6).

Label each spark plug wire to it's loca-

tion in the distributor cap and then discon-

nect them.
10

Loosen the 2 screws and remove the

distributor cap.
11

Disconnect the primary wiring electrical

connector (two-pin) from the distributor (see
illustration 6.4b).
12

Measure the coil primary resistance;

connect an ohmmeter across the terminals of

the two-pin connector on the distributor and

note the resistance. Compare the measured
resistance with the coil primary resistance

value listed in this Chapter's Specifications. If
the coil primary resistance is out of tolerance,

5-6

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

7.17 After disconnecting the wiring harness electrical connector,

remove the coil pack mounting nuts and lift the coil from the

valve cover

SPARK

PLUG

CABLES

8.5 Distributor

DISTRIBUTOR

electrical connections

CONNECTORS

the entire distributor must be replaced - the
coil is not serviceable.

Measure the coil secondary resistance;

using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance

between the coil hi-tension tower terminal
and each terminal of the two-pin connector.
Compare the measured resistances with the
secondary resistance value listed in this
Chapter's Specifications. If the coil sec-
ondary resistance is out of tolerance, the
entire distributor must be replaced - the coil
is not serviceable.
14 Install the distributor cap and related
components in the reverse order of removal.

Replacement

Four-cylinder engines
Refer to illustration 7.17
15

Label the spark plug wires and detach

them from the coil pack.
16

Disconnect the primary wiring electrical

connector from the coil pack.
17

Remove the coil pack mounting nuts

(see illustration) and lift the coil pack from

the mounting bracket on the valve cover.

18 Installation is the reverse of removal.

engine

The ignition coil on V6 engines is not

serviceable. If the coil is defective, replace
the distributor assembly (see Section 8).

Distributor (V6 engine only) -

removal and installation

Removal

Refer to illustrations 8.5 and 8.8

Disconnect the negative battery cable

from the ground stud on the left shock tower.
2

Remove the air cleaner assembly (see

Chapter 4).
3

Remove the EGR tube (see Chapter 6).

Clean the area around and then remove

the transaxle fluid dipstick tube. To prevent
foreign debris from entering the transaxle,
cover the dipstick hole in the transaxle with

duct tape or equivalent.
5

Disconnect the electrical connectors

from the distributor (see illustration).

Label each spark plug wire to it's loca-

tion in the distributor cap and then discon-

nect them.
7

Remove the spark plug wire routing

bracket from the distributor.

Loosen the two screws and remove the

distributor cap (see illustration).
9

Using a felt tip pen and/or a piece of

tape, match-mark the rotor tip to the distribu-
tor body.

Remove the two

securing the distributor
the cylinder head.

Installation

Inspect the distributor 0-ring seal for

hardness, cracks, swelling or other damage
and replace it if necessary.
12 Install the rotor onto the distributor
shaft.
13

Apply a light coat of clean engine oil to

the distributor 0-ring seal and carefully insert
the distributor into the cylinder head with the
rotor aligned with the previously applied
match-mark. Make sure the distributor is fully
seated in the cylinder head and secure with
the two nuts and washers. Tighten the dis-

tributor hold-down nuts to the torque given in
this Chapter's Specifications.

14 If engine was rotated while the distribu-

tor was removed, proceed as follows:

a) Rotate the engine to Top Dead Center

for number 1 piston (see Chapter 2C).

b) Using an ohmmeter, perform a continu-

ity test on the distributor cap to identify

the location of the number 1 terminal

inside the cap and mark it's location on

the outside of the cap.

c) Place the cap onto the distributor and

place another mark on the distributor
body in line with the number 1 terminal
mark on the cap. Remove the cap.

d) Perform Steps 11 thru 13. After installa

tion, use the distributor cap to make
'sure the rotor is pointed at the number 1
terminal.

8.8 Distributor cap mounting screws

The remaining installation steps are the

reverse of removal with the following addi-
tions:

a) Check and replace if necessary, the

transaxle dipstick tube 0-ring seal.
Apply a light coat of clean transaxle fluid
to the seal before installation.

b) Use new gaskets on the EGR tube and

tighten the bolts to the torque listed in
the Specification Section of Chapter 6.

Charging system - general
information and precautions

The charging system includes the alter-

nator, a charge indicator light, the battery, the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the ASD
relay, a fusible link and the wiring between all

the components. The charging system sup-

plies electrical power to maintain the battery
at its full charge capacity. The alternator is
driven by a drivebelt on the front of the
engine.

The Electronic Voltage Regulator (EVR)

within the PCM varies the battery charge rate

nuts and washers

and withdraw it from

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5-7

in accordance with driving conditions.
Depending on electric load, vehicle speed,
engine coolant temperature, battery tempera-

ture sensor, accessories (air conditioning

system, radio, cruise control etc.) and the
intake air temperature, the PCM will adjust

the amount of voltage generated, creating

less load on the engine.

The purpose of the voltage regulator is

to limit the alternator's voltage to a preset
value. This prevents power surges, circuit
overloads, etc., during peak voltage output.
Since the EVR is contained within the PCM,
the PCM must be replaced in the event of
EVR failure.

Four-cylinder models are equipped with

a Nippondenso type alternator and V6 mod-
els use a Mitsubishi (MELCO) alternator. Both
types have a rating of 90 amperes. The alter-
nator is not serviceable and therefore must
be replaced as a unit in the event of failure.

The charging system doesn't ordinarily

require periodic maintenance. However, the
drivebelt, battery, wires and connections

should be inspected at the intervals outlined

in Chapter 1.

The dashboard warning light should illu-

minate when the ignition key is turned to ON,

but it should go off immediately after the
engine is started. If it remains on, there is a
malfunction in the charging system which
must be diagnosed (see Section 10).

Be very careful when making electrical

circuit connections to a vehicle equipped
with an alternator and note the following:

a) When reconnecting wires to the alterna-

tor from the battery, be sure to note the
polarity.

b) Never start the engine with a battery

charger connected.

c) Before using arc welding equipment to

repair any part of the vehicle, disconnect

the wiring from the alternator and the

cables from the battery.

d) Always disconnect both battery cables

before using a battery charger.

e) The alternator is turned by an engine

drivebelt which could cause serious
injury if your hands, hair or clothes
become entangled in it with the engine
running.

f) Because the alternator is connected

directly to the battery, it could arc or
cause a fire if overloaded or shorted out.

g) Wrap a plastic bag over the alternator

and secure it with rubber bands before
steam cleaning the engine.

Charging system - check

Refer to illustrations 10.1 and 10.2
Note: These vehicles are equipped with an
On Board Diagnostic (OBD-ll) system that is
useful for detecting charging system prob-
lems. Refer to Chapter 6 for the trouble code
extracting procedures.
1

If a malfunction occurs in the charging

circuit (see illustration), do not immediately
assume that the alternator is causing the
problem. First check the following items:

a) The battery cables where they connect

to the battery and at the remote termi-

nals. Make sure the connections are
clean and tight (see Section 3).

b) Check the alternator wiring connections;

make sure they are clean and tight.

c) Check the battery voltage. If its less than

12 volts, charge the battery (see Chap-

ter 1).

d) Check the drivebelt condition and ten-

sion (see Chapter 1).

e) Check the alternator mounting bolts for

tightness.

f) Run the engine and check the alternator

for abnormal noise.

Check the battery temperature sensor.

Remove the front bumper (see Chapter 11).

Locate the battery temperature sensor on the
driver's side of the front bumper bar (see
illustration). Disconnect the electrical con-
nector from the sensor. Using an ohmmeter,
measure the resistance between the sensor
electrical terminals. With the air temperature
at approximately 75 to 80-degrees F, the

10.2 Battery temperature sensor (arrow) -

front bumper removed

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