Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, Plymouth Breeze Haynes. Manual - part 6

1-18

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Cracks Running Across

"V" Portions of Belt

20.2 A drivebelt routing diagram is mounted under the hood

BELT

DEFLECTION

MAKE SURE RULER IS

PERPENDICULAR TO STRAIGHT EDGE

Cracks Running Parallel

to "V" Portions of Belt

20.3 Here are some of the more common problems associated

with drivebelts (check the belts very carefully to prevent an

untimely breakdown)

LOCK NUT

UNACCEPTABLE

20.4 Measuring drivebelt deflection with a straightedge and ruler

tion). Sometimes the filler neck hose will leak
due to loose clamps or deteriorated rubber;
problems a home mechanic can usually rec-
tify.
6

Carefully inspect all rubber hoses and

metal lines leading to-and-from the fuel tank.
Check for loose connections, deteriorated
hoses, crimped lines and damage of any

kind. Follow the lines up to the front of the

vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way.

Repair or replace damaged sections as nec-

essary (see Chapter 4).

SUPPORT

BRACKET

20.5 Loosen the alternator

pivot bolt and locking nut and

turn the adjusting bolt to

achieve the proper belt tension

(four-cylinder engines)

20 Drivebelt - check, adjustment

and replacement (every 15,000

miles or 12 months)

Warning: The electric cooling fan(s) on these
models can activate at any time the ignition
switch is in the ON position. Make sure the
ignition is OFF when working in the vicinity of

the fan(s).

Check

Refer to illustrations 20.2, 20.3 and 20.4

1

The drivebelts located at the front of the

engine, play an important role in the opera -

tion of the vehicle and its components. Due
to their function and material makeup, the

belts are prone to failure after a period of time

and should be inspected and adjusted peri-
odically to prevent major damage.
2

The number of belts used depends on

the engine accessories. All engines equipped
with power steering and/or air conditioning

are equipped with two drivebelts (see illus-

tration). One drivebelt drives the alternator

and air conditioning compressor while the
other belt drives the power steering pump.
3

With the engine off, open the hood and

locate the drivebelts at the front of the
engine. Using a flashlight, check each belt for

separation of the adhesive rubber on both
sides of the core, core separation from the

belt side, a severed core, separation of the
ribs from the adhesive rubber, cracking or

separation of the ribs, and torn or worn ribs
or cracks in the inner ridges of the ribs (see

illustration). Also check for fraying and glaz-
ing, which gives the belt a shiny appearance.
Both sides of the belt should be inspected,

which means you will have to twist the belt to

check the underside. Use your fingers to feel

the belt where you can't see it. If any of the

above conditions are evident, replace the
belt(s). Note: On V6 engines, a better drive-

belt inspection can be made by removing the

Chapter 1

Tune-up

and routine

maintenance

1-19

20.12a Power steering pump pivot bolt

(upper arrow) and front locking bolt (lower

arrow) as viewed from under the vehicle

(V6 engine shown)

accessory drivebelt splash shield located
inside the right hand fender well (see Adjust-
ment Section below for removal procedures).
4

The tension of each belt is checked by

pushing on it at a distance halfway between
the pulleys. Apply about 10 pounds of force
with your thumb and see how much the belt
moves down (deflects). Measure the deflec-
tion with a ruler (see illustration). The belt
should deflect about 1/4-inch if the distance
between pulleys is between 7 and 11 inches
and around 1/2-inch if the distance is be-
t ween 12 and 16 inches.

Adjustment

Alternator and air conditioning
compressor drivebelt

Four-cylinder engines

Refer to illustration 20.5
5

Loosen the alternator locking nut and

pivot bolt (see illustration). Both must be

20.12b Power steering rear locking bolt

(arrow) as viewed from under the vehicle

(V6 engine shown)

loosened slightly to move the component.
6

After the bolt and nut have been loos-

ened, turn the adjuster

bolt

as necessary

to

move the component away from the engine
(to tighten the belt) or toward the engine (to
loosen the belt) to achieve the correct drive-

belt tension (see Step 4). Tighten the pivot
bolt and locking nut securely.

V6 engine
Refer to illustrations 20.8 and 20.9
7

Raise the front of the vehicle and sup-

port it securely on jackstands. Remove the
right front wheel. Warning: Never work under
a vehicle that is only supported by a jack!
8

Remove the screw and push-in fasten-

ers securing the accessory drivebelt splash
shield to the fender and frame rail, respec-
tively (see illustration).
9

Loosen the idler pulley lock bolt then

turn the adjuster bolt (see illustration) as
required to achieve the correct drivebelt ten-
sion (see Step 4). Tighten the idler pulley lock
bolt securely after adjustment.

Power steering drivebelt

Refer to illustrations 20.12a and 20.12b

10

Raise the front of the vehicle and sup-

port it securely on jackstands. Warning:

Never work under a vehicle that is supported
only by a jack!

11

Remove the accessory drivebelt splash

shield (see illustration 20.8).

12

Working under the vehicle, loosen the

power steering pump pivot and locking bolts
(front and rear) (see illustrations). The power

steering pump should now be free to move.

13

The power steering pump is equipped

with a square hole designed to accept a 1/2-

inch square drive breaker bar to assist with
adjusting the drivebelt tension.
14

Position the power steering pump as

required to achieve the correct drivebelt ten-
sion (see Step 4). Tighten the pivot and lock-
ing bolts securely.
15 Install the accessory drivebelt splash
shield and lower the vehicle.

Replacement

Refer to illustration 20.18
16

To replace a drivebelt, follow the above

procedures for drivebelt adjustment except
loosen the adjustment enough to allow you to
slip the drivebelt off the crankshaft pulley and
remove it. If you are replacing the alternator
and A/C compressor drivebelt, you must
remove the power steering drivebelt first
because of the way they are arranged on the
crankshaft pulley. Because both drivebelts
tend to wear out equally, its a good idea to
replace both belts at the same time. As they
are removed, identify each belt as to it's
appropriate drive function (PS or ALT-A/C) so
the replacement belts can be installed in their
proper positions.

17

Take the old drivebelts with you when

you go to the auto parts store in order to
make a direct comparison for length, width
and design.

18 Install the new drivebelts. Make sure

they are routed correctly and properly seated

1-20

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

WRONG

WRONG

20.18 When installing the V-ribbed

drivebelt, make sure it is centered on

each pulley - it must not overlap

either edge

in each pulley (see illustration).

19

Adjust the respective drivebelts as

described earlier in this Section. After the
drivebelts have been in service for approxi-
mately ten (10) hours, check the drivebelt
tension again and adjust if necessary as new
drivebelts tend to stretch after initial installa-
tion.

21 Chassis lubrication (every 30,000

miles or 24 months)

Refer to illustrations 21.1 and 21.5

1

A grease gun and a cartridge filled with

the proper grease (see Recommended lubri-
cants and fluids), graphite spray and an oil
can filled with engine oil will be required to

lubricate the chassis components (see illus-

tration).
2

Raise the vehicle and support it securely

on jackstands. Warning: Never work under a
vehicle that is supported only by a jack!
3

Before beginning, force a little grease

out of the nozzle to remove any dirt from the
end of the gun. Wipe the nozzle clean with a

rag.

4

Armed with the grease gun and plenty of

clean rags, begin lubricating the compo-

nents. Note: The tie-rod ends and front sus-

pension lower control arm ball joints are not
serviceable.

5

Wipe the grease fitting clean and push

the nozzle firmly over it. Operate the lever on
the grease gun to force grease into the fitting

until it oozes out of the joint between the two
components (see illustration). If grease
escapes around the grease gun nozzle, the

fitting is clogged or the nozzle is not com-

pletely seated on the fitting. Reattach the gun
nozzle to the fitting and try again. If neces-
sary, replace the fitting with a new one.
6

Lubricate the sliding contact and pivot

points of the parking brake cable along with

the cable guides and levers. This can be

done by smearing some of the chassis
grease onto the cable and related parts with

your fingers. Be careful of frayed wires!

7

Lower the vehicle to the ground.

8

Open the hood and smear a little chas-

sis grease on the hood latch mechanism and

21.1 Materials required for chassis and

body lubrication

1

Engine oil - Light engine oil in a can like
this can be used for door and hood
hinges

2

Graphite spray - Used to lubricate lock
cylinders

3

Grease - Grease, in a variety of types
and weights, is available for use in a
grease gun. Check the Specifications
for your requirements

4

Grease gun - A common grease gun,
shown here with a detachable hose and
nozzle, is needed for chassis lubrication.
After use, clean it thoroughly

striker. Have an assistant pull the hood
release lever from inside the vehicle as you
lubricate the cable at the latch.
9

Lubricate all the hinges (door, hood,

trunk, etc.) with the recommended lubricant
(see Recommended lubricants and fluids at
the beginning of this Chapter) to keep them in

proper working order.
10

The key lock cylinders can be lubricated

with spray-type graphite or silicone lubricant
which is available at auto parts stores.

11

Lubricate the door weather-stripping

with silicone spray. This will reduce chafing
and retard wear.

21.5 Greasing the front suspension upper

control arm ball joint

12

Some components should not be lubri-

cated for the following reasons. Some are
permanently lubricated, some lubricants will
cause component failure or the lubricants will
be detrimental to the components operating
characteristics. Do not lubricate the follow-
ing: air pump, generator bearings, drivebelts,
drivebelt idler pulley, front wheel bearings,
rubber bushings, starter motor bearings, sus-
pension strut bearings, throttle control cable,
throttle linkage ball bearings and water pump
bearings.

22 Air filter - replacement (every

30,000 miles or 24 months)

Refer to illustrations 22.2 and 22.3

1

The air filter element is located in a

housing on the driver's side of the engine

compartment.
2

Unclip the 2 latches securing the top

cover of the air cleaner housing (see illustra-
tion). Lift the latching side of the cover and
disengage it from the locking lugs on the
opposite side.
3

Position the cover out of the way and

22.2 To remove the air cleaner top cover,

release the 2 latches (arrows), lift the

cover and disengage it from the locking

lugs on the opposite side

22.3 With the cover positioned out of the

way, remove the air filter element from

the housing

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-21

23.4 To drain the transaxle fluid, first loosen the bolts, then

remove all the bolts except for 2 on the high side and 2 on the low
side - after breaking the pan seal, remove the 2 bolts on the lower

side and let the pan hang down to drain further

23.5a Remove the transaxle fluid filter .. .

remove the air filter element (see illustra-

tion).
4

Inspect the inside of the air cleaner

housing, top and bottom, for dirt, debris or

damage. If necessary, clean the inside of the

housing with a rag or shop vacuum as appli-
cable. If the air cleaner housing is damaged
and requires replacement, refer to Chapter 4.

5

Place the new filter element in position

(metal screen up), install the top cover and
secure it with the retaining latches.

23 Automatic transaxle - fluid and

filter change (every 30,000 miles

or 24 months)

Refer

to illustrations 23.4, 23.5a and 23.5b

1

The automatic transaxle fluid and filter

should be changed and the magnet cleaned
at the recommended intervals.
2

Raise the front of the vehicle and sup-

port it securely on jackstands. Warning:

Never work under a vehicle that is supported

only by a jack! Extract the two push-in fasten-
ers and remove the transaxle splash shield.
3

Since the transaxle drain pan does not

have a drain plug, this procedure can get a
bit messy, so you should have plenty of clean
rags and newspapers handy to mop up any
spills that may occur. If the drain pan you're
using isn't very large in diameter, place it on

a

piece of plastic such as a trash bag to catch
any splashing oil.
4

Position a container capable of holding

at least 5 quarts under the transaxle oil pan.
Loosen only the pan bolts. Remove the bolts
on each side of the pan leaving two bolts
loosely in place on the upper and lower sides
of the pan (see illustration). Tap the corners
of the pan using a soft-faced mallet to break
the seal and allow the fluid to drain into the
container (the remaining bolts will prevent the
pan from completely separating from the
transaxle). Remove the 2 bolts from the lower
side of the pan and let it hang down to drain

further. After the pan has finished draining,

remove the remaining bolts and detach the
pan.

5

Remove the filter and 0-ring seal (see

illustrations).

6

Carefully remove all traces of old sealant

from the pan, transaxle body (be careful not
to nick or gouge the sealing surfaces) and the

bolts.
7

Clean the pan and the magnet located

inside the pan with a clean, lint-free cloth
moistened with solvent. Don't forget to place

the magnet back in its proper location at the

bottom of the pan.
8

Fit the new filter, with a new 0-ring

installed, in place on the transaxle valve
body.
9

Apply a 1/8-inch bead of Mopar RTV

sealant (or equivalent) to the pan sealing sur-

face (stay on the inboard side of the bolt

holes) and to the underside of each bolt
head.
10

Position the pan on the transaxle and

install the bolts. Tighten them to the torque
listed in this Chapter's Specifications follow-
ing a criss-cross pattern. Work up to the final
torque in three or four steps. Allow the RTV
sealant time to dry according to the manufac-
turer's instructions.
11

Install the transaxle splash shield and

secure it with the two push-in fasteners.
12

Lower the vehicle and add four quarts of

the specified fluid (see Recommended lubri-
cants and fluids at the beginning of this
Chapter) to the transaxle (see Section 6 if
necessary). Start the engine and allow it to
idle for at least two minutes while checking
for leakage around the pan.
13

With the engine running and the brakes

applied, move the shift lever through each of
the gear positions and ending in Park. Check
the fluid level on the dipstick. The level
should be just up to the ADD mark. If neces-
sary, add more fluid (a little at a time) until the
level is just at the ADD mark (be careful not to
overfill it).

23.5b ... and 0-ring seal

14

Drive the vehicle until it reaches normal

operating temperature. Recheck the fluid
level and add as necessary until the fluid
reaches the HOT range on the dipstick (see
Section 6).

15

The old oil cannot be reused in its pre-

sent state and should be disposed of prop-
erly. Oil reclamation centers, auto repair
shops and gas stations will normally accept
used oil. It should be placed into sealable
containers (plastic bottles with screw-on tops
are preferred) for transport to a disposal site.

24

Manual transaxle - lubricant

change (every 30,000 or

24

months)

Refer

to illustrations 24.2a and 24.2b

1

Raise the vehicle and support it securely

on jackstands in a level position. Warning:

Never

work under a vehicle that is supported

only by a jack!
2

Using a box-end wrench or socket to

prevent rounding off the plug wrenching flats,

1-22

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

24.2a To avoid rounding off the corners,

use the correct size box-end wrench or a

socket to remove the manual transaxle oil

drain plug .. .

remove the drain plug. Drain the fluid into a
suitable container capable of holding at least
4 quarts (see illustrations).
3

After the fluid has completely drained,

install the drain plug and tighten it to the

torque given in this Chapter's Specifications.
4

Fill the transaxle with the recommended

lubricant (see Section 16).

5

The old oil cannot be reused in its pre-

sent state and should be disposed of prop-
erly. Oil reclamation centers, auto repair
shops and gas stations will normally accept

used oil. It should be placed into sealable

containers (plastic bottles with screw-on tops
are preferred) for transport to a disposal site.

25 Cooling system - servicing

(draining, flushing and refilling)
(every 30,000 miles or 24 months)

Warning 1: Do not allow coolant (antifreeze)
to come in contact with your skin or painted
surfaces of the vehicle. Flush contaminated
areas immediately with plenty of water. Do
not store new coolant or leave old coolant
lying around where it's accessible to children
or pets - they're attracted by its sweet smell.
Ingestion of even a small amount of coolant
can be fatal! Wipe up garage floor and drip

pan spills immediately. Keep antifreeze con-

tainers covered and repair cooling system
leaks as soon as they're noticed. Check with

local authorities about the disposal of used
antifreeze. Many communities have collection

centers which will see that antifreeze is dis-

posed of properly.
Warning 2: The electric cooling fan(s) on

these models can activate at any time the

ignition switch is in the ON position. Make
sure the ignition is OFF when working in the

vicinity of the fan(s).
1

Periodically, the cooling system should

be drained, flushed and refilled to replenish

the coolant (antifreeze) mixture and prevent
formation of rust and corrosion, which can

24.2b . . . and drain the fluid

impair the performance of the cooling system
and cause engine damage. When the cooling
system is serviced, all hoses and the radiator
cap should be checked and replaced, if nec-
essary.

Draining

Refer to illustration 25.5
2

At the same time the cooling system is

serviced, all hoses and the radiator (pressure)
cap should be inspected, tested and
replaced if faulty (see Section 10).
3

With the engine cold, remove the pres-

sure cap and set the heater control to maxi-
mum heat.
4

Move a large container capable of hold-

ing at least 10 quarts under the radiator drain

fitting to catch the coolant mixture as it's

drained.
5

Open the drain fitting located at the bot-

tom of the radiator (see illustration). On
vehicles equipped with the V6 engine, the
drain fitting cannot be reached by hand. To
open the drain fitting, use a universal joint
and socket attached to a long extension.
Allow the coolant to completely drain out.

Flushing

Refer to illustration 25.11
6

Remove the thermostat housing and the

thermostat (see Chapter 3).
7

Disconnect the lower hose from the

radiator (see Chapter 3 if necessary).
8

Place a garden hose in the upper radia-

tor hose (to flush radiator) and then the ther-
mostat opening in the engine block (to flush
engine block and heater core). Flush the sys-
tem until the water runs clear out of the radia-
tor and lower radiator hose respectively.
9

In severe cases of contamination or

clogging of the radiator, remove it (see Chap-
ter 3) and reverse flush it. This involves insert-
ing the hose in the bottom radiator outlet to
allow the clean water to run against the nor-
mal flow, draining out through the top. A radi-
ator repair shop should be consulted if further
cleaning or repair is necessary.
10

When the coolant is regularly drained

and the system refilled with the correct

25.5 The drain fitting (arrow) is located at

the bottom of the radiator on the right

hand side (radiator removed for clarity)

25.11 To remove the coolant reservoir,

disconnect the hose (A) and remove the 2

mounting bolts (arrows)

coolant mixture there should be no need to
employ chemical cleaners or descalers.
11

Disconnect the coolant reservoir hose,

remove the reservoir from the vehicle and

flush it with clean water (see illustration).

Inspect it for damage and replace if neces-

sary.

Refilling

12 Install the thermostat, the thermostat
housing and connect the radiator hose (see

Chapter 3).

13

Connect the lower radiator hose (see

Chapter 3 if necessary).

14 Install the coolant reservoir, reconnect

the hose and close the radiator drain fitting.

15

Add the correct mixture of high-quality

antifreeze/coolant and water in the ratio
specified on the antifreeze container or in this
Chapter's Specifications through the filler
neck until it reaches the pressure cap seat.
16

Add the same coolant mixture to the

reservoir until it the level is between the FULL
and ADD marks.
17

Run the engine until normal operating

temperature is reached and with the engine

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-23

27.2 Tools required for changing

spark plugs

1

Spark plug socket -

This

will have

special padding inside to protect the
spark plug's porcelain insulator

2

Torque wrench - Although not
mandatory, using this tool is the best
way to ensure the plugs are tightened

properly

3

Ratchet -

Standard hand tool to fit the

spark plug socket

4

Extension - Depending on model and
accessories, you may need special
extensions and universal joints to reach
one or more

of

the plugs

5

Spark plug gap gauge -

This

gauge for

checking the gap comes in a variety

of

styles. Make sure the gap for your
engine is included

idling, add coolant up to the correct level.
Install the pressure cap.
18

Always refill the system with the speci-

fied mixture of coolant and water. See Chap-
ter 3 for more information on antifreeze mix-
tures.

19

Keep a close watch on the coolant level

and the various cooling system hoses during
the first few miles of driving and check for
any coolant leaks. Tighten the hose clamps
and add more coolant mixture as necessary.

26 Evaporative emissions control

system - check (every 30,000
miles or 24 months)

1

The function of the evaporative emis-

sions control system is to prevent fuel vapors
from escaping the fuel system and being
released into the atmosphere. Vapors from
the fuel tank are temporarily stored in a char-
coal canister. The Powertrain Control Module
(PCM) monitors the system and allows the
vapors to be drawn into the intake manifold
when the engine reaches normal operating

temperature.

2

The charcoal canister on 1995 through

1997 models is mounted to a bracket behind

the right front bumper fascia adjacent to the
windshield washer reservoir. On 1998 mod-
els, it's located on top of the fuel tank. The
canisters are maintenance-free and should

last the life of the vehicle.

27.5a Spark plug manufacturers

recommend using a wire-type gauge

when checking the gap - if the wire does

not slide between the electrodes with a

slight drag, adjustment is required

3

The most common symptom of a fault in

the evaporative emissions system

is

a strong

fuel odor in the engine compartment or raw

fuel leaking from the canister. These indica-
tions are usually more prevalent in hot tem-

peratures. All systems except for those
installed on 1995 models are pressurized by
a Leak Detection Pump (LDP). If normal sys-

tem pressure cannot be achieved by the

LDP, which indicates a leak, the PCM will

store the appropriate fault code and illumi-

nate the CHECK ENGINE light on the instru-
ment panel. The most common cause of sys-

tem pressure loss is a loose or poor sealing
gas cap.
4

For more information and replacement

procedures see Chapter 6.

27 Spark plugs - check and

replacement (see Maintenance

schedule for intervals)

Refer to illustrations 27.2, 27.5a and 27.5b

All models

1

The spark plugs are located in the cylin-

der head.
2

In most cases the tools necessary for

spark plug replacement include a spark plug
socket which fits onto a ratchet (this special
socket is padded inside to protect the porce-
lain insulators on the new plugs and hold
them in place), various extensions and a
feeler gauge to check and adjust the spark
plug gap (see illustration). A special plug
wire removal tool is available for separating

the wire boot from the spark plug, but it isn't

absolutely necessary. Since these engines
are equipped with an aluminum cylinder
head(s), a torque wrench should be used

when tightening the spark plugs.
3

The best approach when replacing the

spark plugs is to purchase the new spark

27.5b To change the gap, bend the side

electrode only, as indicated by the arrows,

and be very careful not to crack or chip

the porcelain insulator surrounding the

center electrode

plugs beforehand, adjust them to the proper
gap and then replace each plug one at a
ti me. When buying the new spark plugs, be
sure to obtain the correct plug for your spe-
cific engine. This information can be found in
the Specification Section at the front of this
Chapter, in your owner's manual or on the
Vehicle Emissions Control Information (VECI)
label located under the hood. If differences
exist between the sources, purchase the
spark plug type specified on the VECI label
as it was printed for your specific engine.
4

Allow the engine to cool completely

before attempting to remove any of the
plugs. During this cooling off ti me, each of

the new spark plugs can be inspected for

defects and the gaps can be checked.
5

The gap is checked by inserting the

proper thickness gauge between the elec-

trodes at the tip of the plug (see illustration).
The gap between the electrodes should be as
specified on the VECI label in the engine

compartment or as listed in this Chapter's

Specifications. The wire should touch each of
the electrodes. If the gap is incorrect, use the
adjuster on the thickness

,

gauge body to

bend the curved side electrode slightly until

the proper gap is obtained (see illustration).
Also, at this time check for cracks

in

the

spark plug body (if any are found, the plug
must not be used). If the side electrode is not
exactly over the center one, use the adjuster
to align the two.
6

Cover the fender to prevent damage to

the paint, fender covers are available from
auto parts stores but an old blanket will work
just fine.

Four-cylinder engines

Refer to illustrations 27.7a and 27.7b
7

Note: Due to the short length of the

spark plug wire, always disconnect the spark

plug wire from the ignition coil pack first. Dis-

connect the spark plug wire from any retain-
ing clips. With the engine cool, disconnect

1

1-24

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

27.7a Pull on the spark plug wire boot and twist it back-and-forth

while pulling it from the ignition coil pack

27.7b Use a twisting motion to free the boot and then pull it from

the valve cover

27.15 A length of 3/8-inch ID rubber hose

will save time and prevent damaged

threads when installing the spark plugs

27.12 Use a ratchet and extension to

remove the spark plugs

one of the spark plug wires from the ignition
coil pack (see illustration). Pull only on the
boot at the end of the wire; don't pull on the
wire. Using a twisting motion, loosen the
boot/wire at the valve cover, then withdraw
the boot/wire from the valve cover (see illus-
tration).

V6 engine

Note: On V6 models, the manufacturer rec-
ommends replacing the spark plugs, spark

plug wires, distributor cap and rotor at the

same time. Refer to Section 29 for spark plug
wire, distributor cap and rotor replacement.
8

Remove the upper intake manifold (see

Chapter 2B).
9

To prevent dirt or other foreign debris

from entering the engine, place clean rags
into the openings in the lower intake mani-
fold.
10

Detach any clips securing the spark plug

wires. Using a twisting motion, loosen the
boot/wire at the valve cover, then withdraw
the boot/wire from the valve cover (see illus-
tration 27.7b).

27.14 Apply a thin coat of anti-seize

compound to the spark plug threads - DO

NOT get any on the electrodes!

All models

Refer to illustrations 27.12, 27.14 and 27.15
11

If compressed air is available, use it to

blow any dirt or foreign material away from
the spark plug area. Warning: Use proper
eye protection! A common bicycle pump will
also work. The idea here is to eliminate the
possibility of material falling into the cylinder
through the spark plug hole as the spark plug
is removed.
12

Place the spark plug socket over the

plug and remove it from the engine by turning
it in a counterclockwise direction (see illus-
tration).

13

Compare the spark plug with the chart

on the inside back cover of this manual to get
an indication of the overall running condition
of the engine.
14 It's a good idea to lightly coat the
threads of the spark plugs with an anti-seize
compound (see illustration) to insure that
the spark plugs do not seize in the aluminum
cylinder head. Be careful not to get any of the
anti-seize compound on the plug electrodes!

15 It's often difficult to insert spark plugs
into their holes without cross-threading them.

To avoid this possibility, fit a piece of 3/8-

inch ID rubber hose over the end of the spark
plug (see illustration). The flexible hose acts

as a universal joint to help align the plug with
the plug hole. Should the plug begin to cross-
thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug,

preventing thread damage. Install the spark
plug and tighten it to the torque listed in this

Chapter's Specifications.

16

Attach the plug wire to the new spark

plug, again using a twisting motion on the
boot until it is firmly seated on the end of the

spark plug. On four-cylinder engines, attach
the other end to the ignition coil pack. Attach
the spark plug wire to any retaining clips to
secure the wires in their proper location on
the valve cover.

17

Follow the above procedure for the

remaining spark plugs, replacing them one at

a time to prevent mixing up the spark plug
wires.

18

On V6 models, replace the spark plug

wires, distributor cap and rotor (see Section
29). Remove the rags from the lower intake

manifold and install the upper intake manifold

(see Chapter 2B).

8

Installation is the reverse of removal.

spark plug wire from the ignition coil pack.

Make sure the new PCV valve is installed with

Pull only on the boot at the end of the wire;

the closed end (plunger seat) towards the

don't pull on the wire itself. Use a twisting

valve cover.

motion to free the boot/wire from the coil.
Disconnect the same spark plug wire from
the spark plug, using the same twisting
method while pulling on the boot. Disconnect
the spark plug wire from any retaining clips
as necessary and remove it from the engine.
5

Check inside the boot for corrosion,

which will look like a white, crusty powder
(don't mistake the white dielectric grease
used on some plug wire boots for corrosion
protection).
6

Now push the wire and boot back onto

the end of the spark plug. It should be a tight
fit on the plug end. If not, remove the wire
and use a pair of pliers to carefully crimp the
metal connector inside the wire boot until the
fit is snug.
7

Now push the wire and boot back into

the end of the ignition coil terminal. It should
be a tight fit in the terminal. If not, remove the
wire and use a pair of pliers to carefully crimp
the metal connector inside the wire boot until
the fit is snug.
8

Now, using a cloth, clean each wire

along its entire length. Remove all built-up
dirt and grease. As this is done, inspect for
burned areas, cracks and any other form of
damage. Bend the wires in several places to
ensure that the conductive material inside
hasn't hardened. Repeat the procedure for
the remaining wires.
9

If new spark plug wires are required,

purchase a complete set for your particular
engine. The terminals and rubber boots
should already be installed on the wires.
Replace the wires one at a time to avoid mix-
ing up the firing order and make sure the ter-
minals are securely seated on the coil pack
and the spark plugs.
10

Attach the plug wire to the new spark

plug and to the ignition coil pack using a
twisting motion on the boot until it is firmly
seated. Attach the spark plug wire to any
retaining clips to keep the wires in their
proper location on the valve cover.

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

1-25

28.2a The PCV valve (arrow) is located in a hose leading from the

valve cover to the intake manifold (four-cylinder engines)

28.2b Removing the PCV valve from the valve cover (V6 engine)

28 Positive Crankcase Ventilation

(PCV) valve - check and
replacement (every 60,000 miles
or 48 months)

Refer to illustrations 28.2a and 28.2b
1

The PCV valve controls the amount of

crankcase vapors allowed to enter the intake
manifold. Inside the PCV valve is a spring
loaded valve that opens in relation to intake
manifold vacuum, which allows crankcase
vapors to be drawn from the valve cover
back into the engine combustion chamber.
2

The PCV valve on four-cylinder engines

is located in the rubber hose connected to
the intake manifold plenum and the valve
cover (see illustration). On V6 models, its
located in the front of the left-bank valve
cover (see illustration).
3

To check the operation of the PCV

valve, disconnect the valve from the valve
cover or hose that leads to the valve cover,
depending on your particular application.
4

Start the engine. A hissing sound should

be heard coming from the PCV valve. Place
your finger over the valve opening - there
should be vacuum present. If there's no vac-
uum

at the

valve, check for a plugged hose,

plenum port or valve. Replace any plugged or
deteriorated hoses.
5

Check the spring-loaded valve located

inside for freedom of movement by using a
small screwdriver or equivalent to push the
valve off its seat and see it returns to the fully
seated position. If the valve is sluggish or the
inside of the valve is contaminated with gum
and carbon deposits, the valve must be
replaced.
6

To replace the valve, disconnect it from

the intake manifold hose and valve cover or
valve cover hose as applicable.
7

When purchasing a replacement PCV

valve, make sure it's for your particular vehi-
cle and engine size. Compare the old valve
with the new one to make sure they're the
same.

29 Spark plug wires, distributor cap

and rotor - check and
replacement (see Maintenance

schedule for intervals)

Note: Distributor cap and rotor replacement
applies to V6 engines only.

All

models

1

The spark plug wires should be checked

at the recommended intervals or whenever
new spark plugs are installed.
2

Begin this procedure by making a visual

check of the spark plug wires while the
engine is running. In a darkened garage
(make sure there is adequate ventilation) or at
night while using a flashlight, start the en

g

ine

and observe each plug wire. Be careful not to
come into contact with any moving engine
parts. If possible, use an insulated or non-
conductive object to wiggle each wire. If
there is a break in the wire, you will see arc-
ing or a small blue spark coming from the
damaged area. Secondary ignition voltage
increases with engine speed and sometimes
a damaged wire will not produce an arc at
idle speed. Have an assistant press the
accelerator pedal to raise the engine speed
to approximately 2000 rpm. Check the spark
plug wires for arcing as stated previously. If
arcing is noticed, replace all spark plug wires.

Four-cylinder engines

3

Perform the following checks with the

engine OFF. The wires should be inspected
one at a time to prevent mixing up the order
which is essential for proper engine opera-
tion. Note: Due to the short length of the
spark plug wire, always disconnect the spark

plug wire from the ignition coil pack first.

4

With the engine cool, disconnect the