Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, Plymouth Breeze Haynes. Manual

0-12

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Ring compressor

Cylinder hone

Brake hold-down spring tool

Brake cylinder hone

should start off with the maintenance and
minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for
the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle.
Then, as confidence and experience grow,
the owner can tackle more difficult tasks,

buying additional tools as they are needed.
Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into

the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period
of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will
assemble a tool set complete enough for

most repair and overhaul procedures and will

add tools from the special category when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the fre-
quency of use.

Maintenance and minor repair

tool kit

The tools in this list should be consid-

ered the minimum required for performance
of routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair work. We recommend the purchase of
combination wrenches (box-end and open-
end combined in one wrench). While more
expensive than open end wrenches, they
offer the advantages of both types of wrench.

Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to

1 inch or 6 mm to 19 mm)

Adjustable wrench, 8 inch

Spark plug wrench with rubber insert
Spark plug gap adjusting tool
Feeler gauge set
Brake bleeder wrench
Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x

6 inch)

Clutch plate alignment tool

Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 inch)

Combination pliers - 6 inch

Hacksaw and assortment of blades

Tire pressure gauge
Grease gun

Oil can
Fine emery cloth

Wire brush

Battery post and cable cleaning tool
Oil filter wrench
Funnel (medium size)
Safety goggles
Jackstands (2)
Drain pan

Note: If basic tune-ups are going to be part of

routine maintenance, it will be necessary to
purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing
light and combination tachometer/dwell
meter. Although they are included in the list
of special tools, it is mentioned here because
they are absolutely necessary for tuning most
vehicles properly.

Repair and overhaul tool set

These tools are essential for anyone

who plans to perform major repairs and are in
addition to those in the maintenance and
minor repair tool kit. Included is a compre-
hensive set of sockets which, though expen-
sive, are invaluable because of their versatil-
ity, especially when various extensions and
drives are available. We recommend the 1/2-
inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although
the larger drive is bulky and more expensive,

Tap and die set

it has the capacity of accepting a very wide
range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the
mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set
and a 1/2-inch drive set.

Socket set(s)
Reversible ratchet
Extension - 10 inch

Universal joint
Torque wrench (same size drive as

sockets)

Ball peen hammer - 8 ounce
Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber)
Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch)
Standard screwdriver (stubby -

5/16-inch)

Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 inch)
Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2)
Pliers - vise grip
Pliers - lineman's
Pliers - needle nose
Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external)

Cold chisel - 1/2-inch

Scribe
Scraper (made from flattened copper

tubing)

Centerpunch
Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch)
Steel rule/straightedge - 12 inch
Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or

4mmto10mm)

A selection of files

Wire brush (large)

Jackstands (second set)
Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-13

Note: Another tool which is often useful is an
electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch

and a set of good quality drill bits.

Special tools

The tools in this list include those which

are not used regularly, are expensive to buy,
or which need to be used in accordance with

their manufacturer's instructions. Unless
these tools will be used frequently, it is not
very economical to purchase many of them.
A consideration would be to split the cost
and use between yourself and a friend or
friends. In addition, most of these tools can
be obtained from a tool rental shop on a tem-
porary basis.

This list primarily contains only those

tools and instruments widely available to the
public, and not those special tools produced
by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to
dealer service departments. Occasionally,
references to the manufacturer's special
tools are included in the text of this manual.
Generally, an alternative method of doing the

job without the special tool is offered. How-

ever, sometimes there is no alternative to

their use. Where this is the case, and the tool
cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work
should be turned over to the dealer service
department or an automotive repair shop.

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring groove cleaning tool
Piston ring compressor
Piston ring installation tool
Cylinder compression gauge
Cylinder ridge reamer
Cylinder surfacing hone
Cylinder bore gauge
Micrometers and/or dial calipers
Hydraulic lifter removal tool
Balljoint separator
Universal-type puller
I mpact screwdriver
Dial indicator set
Stroboscopic timing light (inductive

pick-up)

Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump
Tachometer/dwell meter
Universal electrical multimeter
Cable hoist

Brake spring removal and installation

tools

Floor jack

Buying tools

For the do-it-yourselfer who is just start-

ing to get involved in vehicle maintenance
and repair, there are a number of options
available when purchasing tools. If mainte-
nance and minor repair is the extent of the
work to be done, the purchase of individual
tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand,
extensive work is planned, it would be a good
idea to purchase a modest tool set from one
of the large retail chain stores. A set can usu-
ally be bought at a substantial savings over

the individual tool prices, and they often

come with a tool box. As additional tools are

needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a
larger tool box can be purchased to expand
the tool selection. Building a tool set gradu-

ally

allows the cost of the tools to be spread

over a longer period of time and gives the
mechanic the freedom to choose only those
tools that will actually be used.

Tool stores will often be the only source

of some of the special tools that are needed,
but regardless of where tools are bought, try

to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying

screwdrivers and sockets, because they

won't last very long. The expense involved in

replacing cheap tools will eventually be

greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Care and maintenance of tools

Good tools are expensive, so it makes

sense to treat them with respect. Keep them
clean and in usable condition and store them
properly when not in use. Always wipe off any
dirt, grease or metal chips before putting
them away. Never leave tools lying around in
the work area. Upon completion of a job,
always check closely under the hood for tools
that may have been left there so they won't
get lost during a test drive.

Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pli-

ers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a
panel mounted on the garage or workshop

wall, while others should be kept in a tool box
or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges,

meters, etc. must be carefully stored where

they cannot be damaged by weather or

impact from other tools.

When tools are used with care and

stored properly, they will last a very long
ti me. Even with the best of care, though,
tools will wear out if used frequently. When a
tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Sub-
sequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable
if you do.

How to repair damaged
threads

Sometimes, the internal threads of a nut

or bolt hole can become stripped, usually
from overtightening. Stripping threads is an
all-too-common occurrence, especially when
working with aluminum parts, because alu-
minum is so soft that it easily strips out.

Usually, external or internal threads are

only partially stripped. After they've been
cleaned up with a tap or die, they'll still work.

Sometimes, however, threads are badly dam-
aged. When this happens, you've got three
choices:

1) Drill and tap the hole to the next suitable

oversize and install a larger diameter
bolt, screw or stud.

2) Drill and tap the hole to accept a

threaded plug, then drill and tap the plug
to the original screw size. You can also
buy a plug already threaded to the origi-
nal size. Then you simply drill a hole to
the specified size, then run the threaded

plug into the hole with a bolt and jam

nut. Once the plug is fully seated,
remove the jam nut and bolt.

3) The third method uses a patented

thread repair kit like Heli-Coil or Slimsert.
These easy-to-use kits are designed to
repair damaged threads in straight-
through holes and blind holes. Both are

available as kits which can handle a vari-

ety of sizes and thread patterns. Drill the

hole, then tap it with the special
included tap. Install the Heli-Coil and the
hole is back to its original diameter and

thread pitch.
Regardless of which method you use,

be sure to proceed calmly and carefully. A lit-

tle impatience or carelessness during one of
these relatively simple procedures can ruin
your whole day's work and cost you a bundle

if you wreck an expensive part.

Working facilities

Not to be overlooked when discussing

tools is the workshop. If anything more than
routine maintenance is to be carried out,
some sort of suitable work area is essential.

It is understood, and appreciated, that

many home mechanics do not have a good
workshop or garage available, and end up
removing an engine or doing major repairs
outside. It is recommended, however, that

the overhaul or repair be completed under
the cover of a roof.

A clean, flat workbench or table of com-

fortable working height is an absolute neces-
sity. The workbench should be equipped with
a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four
inches.

As mentioned previously, some clean,

dry storage space is also required for tools,
as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning sol-
vents, etc. which soon become necessary.

Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained

from the engine or cooling system during nor

mal maintenance or repairs, present a dis-
posal problem. To avoid pouring them on the
ground or into a sewage system, pour the
used fluids into large containers, seal them
with caps and take them to an authorized
disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs,
such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal
for this purpose.

Always keep a supply of old newspa-

pers and clean rags available. Old towels are
excellent for mopping up spills. Many
mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most

work because they are readily available and
disposable. To help keep the area under the
vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be
cut open and flattened to protect the garage
or shop floor.

Whenever working over a painted sur-

face, such as when leaning over a fender to
service something under the hood, always
cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to
protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made
especially for this purpose, are available at
auto parts stores.

0-15

Jacking and towing

Jacking

Warning: The jack supplied with the vehicle
should only be used for changing a tire or

placing jackstands under the frame. Never

work under the vehicle or start the engine
while this jack is being used as the only
means of support.

The vehicle should be on level ground.

Place the shift lever in Park, if you have an
automatic, or Reverse if you have a manual

transaxle. Block the wheel diagonally oppo-

site the wheel being changed. Set the parking
brake.

Remove the spare tire and jack from

stowage. Remove the wheel cover and trim
ring (if so equipped) with the tapered end of

the lug nut wrench by inserting and twisting
the handle and then prying against the back
of the wheel cover. Loosen the wheel lug nuts
about 1/4-to-1/2 turn each.

Place the scissors-type jack under the

side of the vehicle and adjust the jack height
until it fits in the notch in the vertical rocker
panel flange nearest the wheel to be
changed. There is a front and rear jacking
point on each side of the vehicle (see illus-
tration).

Turn the jack handle clockwise until the

tire clears the ground. Remove the lug nuts
and pull the wheel off. Replace it with the
spare.

Install the lug nuts with the beveled

edges facing in. Tighten them snugly. Don't

attempt to tighten them completely until the
vehicle is lowered or it could slip off the jack.
Turn the jack handle counterclockwise to

lower the vehicle. Remove the jack and

tighten the lug nuts in a diagonal pattern.

Install the cover (and trim ring, if used)

and be sure it's snapped into place all the
way around.

Stow the tire, jack and wrench. Unblock

the wheels.

Towing

As a general rule, the vehicle should be

towed with the front (drive) wheels off the
ground. If they can't be raised, place them on
a dolly. The ignition key must be in the ACC
position, since the steering lock mechanism
isn't strong enough to hold the front wheels

straight while towing.

Vehicles equipped with an automatic

transaxle can be towed from the front only
with all four wheels on the ground, provided
that speeds don't exceed 25 mph and the
distance is not over 15 miles. Before towing,
check the transmission fluid level (see Chap-
ter 1). If the level is below the HOT line on the
dipstick, add fluid or use a towing dolly.
Caution: Never tow a vehicle with an auto-
matic transaxle from the rear with the front
wheels on the ground.

When towing a vehicle equipped with a

manual transaxle with all four wheels on the
ground, be sure to place the shift lever in

The jack fits over the rocker panel flange

(there are two jacking points on each side

of the vehicle, indicated by a notch in the

rocker panel flange)

Neutral and release the parking brake.

Equipment specifically designed for

towing should be used. It should be attached
to the main structural members of the vehi-
cle, not the bumpers, brackets or suspen-
sion.

Safety is a major consideration when

towing and all applicable state and local laws
must be obeyed. A safety chain system must
be used at all times.

0-16

Automotive chemicals and lubricants

A number of automotive chemicals and

lubricants are available for use during vehicle
maintenance and repair. They include a wide
variety of products ranging from cleaning sol-
vents and degreasers to lubricants and pro-
tective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

Cleaners

Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner

is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and car-
bon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a dry-
type lubricant film which will not harden or
gum up. Because of this film it is not recom-
mended for use on electrical components.

Brake system cleaner is used to

remove grease and brake fluid from the brake
system, where clean surfaces are absolutely
necessary. It leaves no residue and often
eliminates brake squeal caused by contami-
nants.

Electrical cleaner removes oxidation,

corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical
contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also

be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets,

voltage regulators and other parts where an
oil-free surface is desired.

Demoisturants remove water and mois-

ture from electrical components such as alter-
nators, voltage regulators, electrical connec-
tors and fuse blocks. They are non-conduc-
tive, non-corrosive and non-flammable.

Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents

used to remove grease from the outside of the
engine and from chassis components. They
can be sprayed or brushed on and, depend-
ing on the type, are rinsed off either with water
or solvent.

Lubricants

Motor oil is the lubricant formulated for

use in engines. It normally contains a wide
variety of additives to prevent corrosion and
reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in
various weights (viscosity ratings) from 0 to
50. The recommended weight of the oil
depends on the season, temperature and the
demands on the engine. Light oil is used in
cold climates and under light load conditions.
Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where
high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity
oils are designed to have characteristics of
both light and heavy oils and are available in
a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50.

Gear oil is designed to be used in differ-

entials, manual transmissions and other
areas where high-temperature lubrication is
required.

Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a

heavy grease used where increased loads
and friction are encountered, such as for

wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and

universal joints.

High-temperature

wheel bearing

grease is designed to withstand the extreme
temperatures encountered by wheel bearings

in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually

contains molybdenum disulfide (moly), which

is a dry-type lubricant.

White grease is a heavy grease for

metal-to-metal applications where water is a
problem. White grease stays soft under both
low and high temperatures (usually from -100
to +190-degrees F), and will not wash off or
dilute in the presence of water.

Assembly lube is a special extreme

pressure lubricant, usually containing moly,
used to lubricate high-load parts (such as
main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for ini-
tial start-up of a new engine. The assembly
tube lubricates the parts without being
squeezed out or washed away until the
engine oiling system begins to function.

Silicone lubricants are used to protect

rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts.

Graphite lubricants are used where oils

cannot be used due to contamination prob-
lems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will
lubricate metal parts while remaining uncon-

taminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is

electrically conductive and will not foul elec-

trical contacts in locks such as the ignition

switch.

Maly penetrants loosen and lubricate

frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and

prevent future rusting or freezing.

Heat-sink grease is a special electri-

cally non-conductive grease that is used for

mounting electronic ignition modules where it
is essential that heat is transferred away from

the module.

Sealants

RTV sealant is one of the most widely

used gasket compounds. Made from sili-
cone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds,
waterproofs, fills

surface irregularities,

remains flexible, doesn't shrink, is relatively
easy to remove, and is used as a supplemen-
tary sealer with almost all low and medium
temperature gaskets.

Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in

that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to
form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is
solvent resistant and fills surface imperfec-
tions. The difference between an anaerobic
sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the cur-
ing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an
anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence
of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant
cures only after the assembly of parts, seal-
ing them together.

Thread and pipe sealant is used for

sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and
vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon
compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on
li quid and as a wrap-around tape.

Chemicals

Anti-seize compound prevents seizing,

galling, cold welding, rust and corrosion in

fasteners. High-temperature ant-seize, usu-

ally made with copper and graphite lubri-
cants, is used for exhaust system and
exhaust manifold bolts.

Anaerobic locking compounds are

used to keep fasteners from vibrating or

working loose and cure only after installation,

in the absence of air. Medium strength lock-
ing compound is used for small nuts, bolts

and screws that may be removed later. High-
strength locking compound is for large nuts,

bolts and studs which aren't removed on a

regular basis.

Oil additives range from viscosity index

improvers to chemical treatments that claim

to reduce internal engine friction. It should be
noted that most oil manufacturers caution
against using additives with their oils.

Gas additives perform several func-

tions, depending on their chemical makeup.
They usually contain solvents that help dis-
solve gum and varnish that build up on car-
buretor, fuel injection and intake parts. They
also serve to break down carbon deposits
that form on the inside surfaces of the com-
bustion chambers. Some additives contain
upper cylinder lubricants for valves and pis-
ton rings, and others contain chemicals to
remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous

Brake fluid is specially formulated

hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat
and pressure encountered in brake systems.
Care must be taken so this fluid does not
come in contact with painted surfaces or
plastics. An opened container should always
be resealed to prevent contamination by

water or dirt.

Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond

weatherstripping around doors, windows and
trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim

pieces.

Undercoating is a petroleum-based,

tar-like substance that is designed to protect
metal surfaces on the underside of the vehi-
cle from corrosion. It also acts as a sound-
deadening agent by insulating the bottom of
the vehicle.

Waxes and polishes are used to help

protect painted and plated surfaces from the
weather. Different types of paint may require
the use of different types of wax and polish.
Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive
cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxi-
dized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent
years many non-wax polishes that contain a
wide variety of chemicals such as polymers
and silicones have been introduced. These
non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply
and last longer than conventional waxes and
polishes.

Conversion factors

Length (distance)

Inches (in)

25.4

= Millimetres (mm)

0.0394

= Inches (in)

Feet (ft)

X 0.305 = Metres (m)

3.281

= Feet (ft)

Miles

1.609 = Kilometres (km)

0.621

= Miles

Volume (capacity)

Cubic inches (cu in; in

)

X 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm

)

0.061

= Cubic inches (cu in; in

)

I mperial pints (Imp pt)

X 0.568 = Litres (I)

1.76

= Imperial pints (Imp pt)

I mperial quarts (Imp qt)

1.137 = Litres (I)

0.88

= Imperial quarts (Imp qt)

I mperial quarts (Imp qt)

1.201

= US quarts (US qt)

0.833

= Imperial quarts (Imp qt)

US quarts (US qt)

X 0.946 = Litres (I)

1.057

= US quarts (US qt)

I mperial gallons (Imp gal)

X 4.546 = Litres (I)

0.22

= Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

I mperial gallons (Imp gal)

1.201

= US gallons (US gal)

0.833

= Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

US gallons (US gal)

X 3.785 = Litres (I)

0.264

= US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight)

Ounces (oz)

X 28.35 = Grams (g)

0.035

= Ounces (oz)

Pounds (lb)

X 0.454 = Kilograms (kg)

2.205

= Pounds (lb)

Force

Ounces-force (ozf; oz)

X 0.278 = Newtons (N)

3.6

= Ounces-force (ozf; oz)

Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib)

X 4.448 = Newtons (N)

0.225

= Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib)

Newtons (N)

0.1

= Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)

9.81

= Newtons (N)

Pressure

Pounds-force per square inch

X 0.070 = Kilograms-force per square

1 4.223

= Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in

; lb/in

)

centimetre (kgf/cm

; kg/cm

)

(psi; Ibf/in

; lb/in

)

Pounds-force per square inch

X 0.068 = Atmospheres (atm)

1 4.696

= Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in

; lb/in

)

(psi; Ibf/in

; lb/in

)

Pounds-force per square inch.

X 0.069 = Bars

1 4.5

= Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; lbf/in

; lb/in

)

(psi; Ibf/in

; lb/in

)

Pounds-force per square inch

X 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa)

0.145

= Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in

; lb/in

)

(psi; Ibf/in

; lb/in

)

Kilopascals (kPa)

0.01

= Kilograms-force per square

98.1

= Kilopascals (kPa)

Torque (moment of force)

Pounds-force inches

centimetre (kgf/cm

; kg/cm

)

= Kilograms-force centimetre

0.868

= Pounds-force inches

1.152

(Ibf in; lb

in)

(kgf cm; kg cm)

(Ibf in; lb in)

Pounds-force inches

X 0.113 = Newton metres (Nm)

8.85

= Pounds-force inches

(Ibf in; lb in)

Pounds-force inches

X 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

= Pounds-force inches

(Ibf in; lb in)

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

X 0.138 = Kilograms-force metres

7.233

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

1.356

(kgf m; kg m)

= Newton metres (Nm)

0.738

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; lb ft)

Newton metres (Nm)

X 0.102 = Kilograms-force metres

9.804

= Newton metres (Nm)

Vacuum

Inches mercury (in. Hg)

X 3.377

(kgf m; kg m)

= Kilopascals (kPa)

0.2961

= Inches mercury

Inches mercury (in. Hg)

X 25.4

= Millimeters mercury (mm Hg)

0.0394

= Inches mercury

Power

Horsepower (hp)

X 745.7 = Watts (W)

0.0013

= Horsepower (hp)

Velocity (speed)

Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

X 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) X

0.621

= Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption*

Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) X 0.354 = Kilometres per litre (km/I)

2.825

= Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg)

Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

X 0.425 = Kilometres per litre (km/I)

2.352

= Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Temperature

Degrees Fahrenheit

= (°C x 1.8) + 32

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)

= (°F - 32) x 0.56

It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (Mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (l/100km),

where mpg (Imperial) x l/100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x l/100 km = 235

0-18

Safety first!

Regardless of how enthusiastic you

may be about getting on with the job at
hand, take the time to ensure that your

safety is not jeopardized. A moment's lack of
attention can result in an accident, as can
failure to observe certain simple safety pre-
cautions. The possibility of an accident will
always exist, and the following points should

not be considered a comprehensive list of all

dangers. Rather, they are intended to make
you aware of the risks and to encourage a
safety conscious approach to all work you
carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON'Ts

DON'T rely on a jack when working under the

vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to
support the weight of the vehicle and place
them under the recommended lift or support

points.
DON'T attempt to loosen extremely tight fas-

teners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is
on a jack - it may fall.

DON'T start the engine without first making

sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or

Park where applicable) and the parking brake
is set.
DON'T remove the radiator cap from a hot

cooling system - let it cool or cover it with a
cloth and release the pressure gradually.

DON'T attempt to drain the engine oil until

you are sure it has cooled to the point that it
will not burn you.

DON'T touch any part of the engine or ex-
haust system until it has cooled sufficiently to

avoid burns.

DON'T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline,

antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow
them to remain on your skin.

DON'T inhale brake lining dust - it is poten-

tially hazardous (see Asbestos below).

DON'T allow spilled oil or grease to remain

on the floor - wipe it up before someone slips
on it.

DON'T use loose fitting wrenches or other

tools which may slip and cause injury.

DON'T push on wrenches when loosening or

tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the
wrench toward you. If the situation calls for

pushing the wrench away, push with an open

hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench
should slip.
DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component
alone - get someone to help you.

DON'T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish

a job.

DON'T allow children or animals in or around

the vehicle while you are working on it.
DO wear eye protection when using power
tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder,

etc. and when working under a vehicle.
DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out
of the way of moving parts.
DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe

working load rating adequate for the job.

DO get someone to check on you periodically

when working alone on a vehicle.

DO carry out work in a logical sequence and
make sure that everything is correctly assem-
bled and tightened.
DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped
and out of the reach of children and pets.
DO remember that your vehicle's safety
affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt
on any point, get professional advice.

Asbestos

Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and

other products - such as brake linings, brake
bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gas-
kets, etc. - may contain asbestos. Extreme
care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust

from such products, since it is hazardous to

health. If in doubt, assume that they do con-

tain asbestos.

Fire

Remember at all times that gasoline is

highly flammable. Never smoke or have any
kind of open flame around when working on a
vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A
spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by

two metal surfaces contacting each other, or

even by static electricity built up in your body
under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline

vapors, which in a confined space are highly

explosive. Do not, under any circumstances,
use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an
approved safety solvent.

Always disconnect the battery ground (-)

cable at the battery before working on any
part of the fuel system or electrical system.
Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or
exhaust component. It is strongly recom-
mended that a fire extinguisher suitable for
use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy
in the garage or workshop at all times. Never

try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with
water.

Fumes

Certain fumes are highly toxic and can

quickly cause unconsciousness and even
death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor

falls into this category, as do the vapors from
some cleaning solvents. Any draining or

pouring of such volatile fluids should be done
in a well ventilated area.

When using cleaning fluids and sol-

vents, read the instructions on the container

carefully. Never use materials from unmarked
containers.

Never run the engine in an enclosed

space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes con-
tain carbon monoxide, which is extremely
poisonous. If you need to run the engine,
always do so in the open air, or at least have
the rear of the vehicle outside the work area.

If you are fortunate enough to have the

use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour
gasoline and never run the engine while the
vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being
heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit
with possibly lethal results.

The battery

Never create a spark or allow a bare

light bulb near a battery. They normally give
off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which
is highly explosive.

Always disconnect the battery ground (-)

cable at the battery before working on the
fuel or electrical systems.

If possible, loosen the filler caps or

cover when charging the battery from an
external source (this does not apply to sealed
or maintenance-free batteries). Do not
charge at an excessive rate or the battery
may burst.

Take care when adding water to a non

maintenance-free battery and when carrying
a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted,
is very corrosive and should not be allowed
to contact clothing or skin.

Always wear eye protection when clean-

ing the battery to prevent the caustic
deposits from entering your eyes.

Household current

When using an electric power tool,

inspection light, etc., which operates on
household current, always make sure that the
tool is correctly connected to its plug and
that,

where necessary, it is properly

grounded. Do not use such items in damp
conditions and, again, do not create a spark
or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel
or fuel vapor.

Secondary ignition system
voltage

A severe electric shock can result from

touching certain parts of the ignition system
(such as the spark plug wires) when the
engine is running or being cranked, particu-
larly if components are damp or the insulation
is defective. In the case of an electronic igni-
tion system, the secondary system voltage is
much higher and could prove fatal.

0-19

Troubleshooting

Contents

Symptom

Section

Symptom

Section

Engine

Engine backfires.............................................................................

Engine diesels (continues to run) after switching off .....................

Engine hard to start when cold ......................................................

Engine hard to start when hot........................................................

Engine lacks power........................................................................

Engine lopes while idling or idles erratically ..................................

Engine misses at idle speed ...........................................................

Engine misses throughout driving speed range.............................

Engine rotates but will not start .....................................................

Engine runs with oil pressure light on ............................................

Engine stalls...................................................................................

Engine starts but stops immediately ..............................................

Engine stumbles on acceleration...................................................

Engine surges while holding accelerator steady ............................

Engine will not rotate when attempting to start .............................

Oil puddle under engine................................................................. 7
Pinging or knocking engine sounds during

acceleration or uphill .................................................................

Starter motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement .............

Engine electrical system

Alternator light fails to come on when key is turned on.................
Alternator light fails to go out.........................................................
Battery will not hold a charge........................................................

Fuel and emissions systems

CHECK ENGINE light remains on or is flashing .............................
Excessive fuel consumption...........................................................
Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor ........................................................

Cooling system

Coolant loss...................................................................................
External coolant leakage................................................................
Internal coolant leakage .................................................................

Overcooling....................................................................................
Overheating....................................................................................

Poor coolant circulation.................................................................

Clutch

Clutch pedal stays on floor ............................................................
Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase

in vehicle speed ........................................................................

Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged...................................
High pedal effort ............................................................................
Noise in clutch area .......................................................................
Pedal travels to floor - no pressure

or very little resistance..............................................................

Transaxle rattling (clicking) .............................................................
Unable to select gears...................................................................

Manual transaxle

Clicking noise in turns....................................................................
Clunk on acceleration or deceleration ...........................................
Knocking noise at low speeds .......................................................

Leaks lubricant.....................................................................................48
Hard to shift......................................................................................... 49
Noise most pronounced when turning.................................................40
Noisy in all gears ..................................................................................46
Noisy in neutral with engine running....................................................44
Noisy in one particular gear.................................................................45
Slips out of gear..................................................................... :............ 47
Vibration...............................................................................................43

Automatic transaxle

Engine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral ............................54
Fluid leakage........................................................................................50
General shift mechanism problems..................................................... 52

Transaxle fluid brown or has burned smell ..........................................51
Transaxle slips, shifts roughly, is noisy or has no drive

in forward or reverse gears.............................................................55

Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal

pressed to the floor ........................................................................ 53

Driveaxles

Clicking noise in turns..........................................................................56

Shudder or vibration during acceleration .............................................57
Vibration at highway speeds ................................................................58

Brakes

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed .........................................66
Brake pedal travels to the floor with little resistance ........................... 67
Brake roughness or chatter (pedal pulsates) ....................................... 61
Dragging brakes...................................................................................64
Excessive brake pedal travel ............................................................... 63

Excessive pedal effort required to stop vehicle...................................62
Grabbing or uneven braking action ..................................................... 65
Noise (high-pitched squeal when the brakes are applied) ...................60
Parking brake does not hold ................................................................68
Vehicle pulls to one side during braking ..............................................59

Suspension and steering systems

Abnormal or excessive tire wear..........................................................70
Abnormal noise at the front end .......................................................... 75
Cupped tires ........................................................................................ 80
Erratic steering when braking .............................................................. 77
Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or

during braking .................................................................................78

Excessive play or looseness in steering system ..................................84
Excessive tire wear on inside edge ......................................................82
Excessive tire wear on outside edge ................................................... 81
Hard steering ........................................................................................73
Poor returnability of steering to center................................................ 74
Rattling or clicking noise in steering gear ............................................85

Shimmy, shake or vibration..................................................................72
Suspension bottoms............................................................................79
Tire tread worn in one place ................................................................ 83

Vehicle pulls to one side ...................................................................... 69

Wander or poor steering stability .........................................................76

Wheel makes a thumping noise...........................................................71

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Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, Plymouth Breeze Haynes. Manual - part 2