Peugeot 205 (954 cc, 1124 cc, 1360 cc, 1580 cc & 1905 cc). Manual - part 1

The Peugeot 205 was introduced in the UK in September 1983 as a

five-door Hatchback with a transversely-mounted engine and trans-
mission assembly driving the front wheels. The suspension is of front
coil springs and rear transverse torsion bars.

Three engine sizes were originally available, featuring a chain driven

overhead camshaft design mounted directly over the transmission. The
GTi was introduced in the Spring of 1984 and was fitted with a
belt-driven overhead camshaft engine with a side-mounted
transmission. The GTI engine is equipped with an electronically
controlled fuel injection system.

In October 1984 three-door versions became available, with an X

series designation, in addition to the three-door GTI. Van versions were
introduced in June 1985, together with the limited edition Lacoste,

based on the GT version. In September 1985 the XT was introduced,
being a three-door version of the GT, and at the same time the 954 cc
XL three-door was introduced, having a higher specification than the
XE. The 1580 cc Automatic was introduced in April 1986 at the same
time as the Cabriolet CTI. The XS replaced the XT in July 1986, at
which time the limited edition  Junior, based on the XE, became
available. The 1.9 GTI was introduced in August 1986, and at the same
time dim-dip headlights and rear seat belts were fitted as standard. In
December 1987 the new TU engines and MA transmissions were fitted
to all except fuel injection, diesel and automatic models.

Latest models feature single- and multi-point fuel injection, with full

emission control equipment and a sophisticated engine management
system.

0•4 Introduction

Peugeot 205 GTi

Peugeot 205 van

Your Peugeot 205 Manual

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your

vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work
must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage),
provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a
logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur.
However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work
yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car
into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps
most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a
garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.

The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of

the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then
the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step
sequence.

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug, who supplied the illustrations
showing spark plug condition. Certain illustrations are the copyright of
Peugeot Talbot Motor Company Limited, and are used with their
permission. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who
provided some of the workshop tools, and to Duckhams Oils who
provided lubrication data, also to all those people at Sparkford who
helped in the production of this manual.
We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this
manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design
changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which
they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors
or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or
omissions from the information given.

The Peugeot 205 Team

Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated and
enthusiastic people working in close co-operation. The
team responsible for the creation of this book included: 

Authors

Andy Legg
John Mead

Sub-editors

Carole Turk

Editor & Page Make-up

Steve Churchill

Workshop manager

Paul Buckland

Photo Scans

John Martin
Paul Tanswell

Cover illustration & Line Art

Roger Healing

Wiring diagrams

Matthew Marke

We hope the book will help you to get the maximum
enjoyment from your car. By carrying out routine
maintenance as described you will ensure your car’s
reliability and preserve its resale value.

Safety first!  0•5

Working on your car can be dangerous.

This page shows just some of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
tank cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.

Crushing

• When working under or near
a raised vehicle,
always
supplement the
jack with axle
stands, or use
drive-on
ramps.
Never
venture
under a car which
is only supported by a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening high-
torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should
be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive. 
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. 
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks 
(electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical
overload or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock 

• Ignition HT
voltage can be
dangerous,
especially to
people with heart
problems or a
pacemaker. Don’t
work on or near the
ignition system with
the engine running or
the ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication 

• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they often
contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never run the
engine in a
confined space
such as a garage
with the doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-
soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Special hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed to temperatures above 400

0

C. The

rubber changes into a charred or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.

The battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers or jump leads.

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands,
face or any other part of the body
to injector spray; the fuel can

penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
results.

Remember...

DO

• Do use eye protection when using power
tools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
protect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodically
that all is well when working alone on the
vehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
working on the vehicle – especially the
electrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
equipment has a safe working load rating
adequate for the job.

A few tips

DON’T

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
which may be beyond your capability – get
assistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
unverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
and cause injury.

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
where someone can trip over them. Mop
up oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
near a vehicle being worked on.

0•6 Roadside repairs

The following pages are intended to help in dealing with

common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find
more detailed fault finding information at the back of the
manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won’t start 
and the starter motor
doesn’t turn

M If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the

selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’.

M Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals

are clean and tight.

M Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the

headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the
battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting
(see next page) using a friend’s car.

If your car won’t start 
even though the starter
motor turns as normal

M Is there fuel in the tank?

M Is there moisture on electrical components under the

bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious
dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol
product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system
electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. 
Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector
and HT leads. (Note that Diesel engines don’t normally
suffer from damp.)

Check the security of all the fuel injection system wiring
connectors (where applicable).

C

Check the security and condition of the battery terminals.

D

Check that all ignition wiring connectors such as this at the
distributor are secure and spray with water dispersant if
necessary.

B

Check that the spark plug HT leads are securely connected by
pushing them home

A

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them
with a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

Roadside repairs  0•7

When jump-starting a car using a
booster battery, observe the following
precautions:

4

Before connecting the booster
battery, make sure that the ignition is
switched off.

4

Ensure that all electrical equipment
(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is
switched off.

4

Make sure that the booster battery is
the same voltage as the discharged
one in the vehicle.

4

If the battery is being jump-started
from the battery in another vehicle,
the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH
each other.

4

Make sure that the transmission is in
neutral (or PARK, in the case of
automatic transmission).

Jump starting will get you out
of trouble, but you must correct
whatever made the battery go
flat in the first place. There are 

three possibilities:

1

The battery has been drained by
repeated attempts to start, or by

leaving the lights on.

2

The charging system is not working
properly (alternator drivebelt slack

or broken, alternator wiring fault or
alternator itself faulty).

3

The battery itself is at fault
(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead to
the positive (+) terminal of the flat
battery

Connect the other end of the red lead to
the positive (+) terminal of the booster
battery.

Connect one end of the black jump lead
to the negative (-) terminal of the
booster battery

Connect the other end of the black
jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the
engine block, well away from the
battery, on the vehicle to be started.

1

2

3

4

Make sure that the jump leads will not
come into contact with the fan, drive-
belts or other moving parts of the
engine.

5

Start the engine using the booster
battery, then with the engine running at
idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in
the reverse order of connection.

6

Jump starting

0•8 Roadside repairs

Wheel changing

Some of the details shown here will vary
according to model. For instance, the location
of the spare wheel and jack is not the same
on all cars. However, the basic principles
apply to all vehicles.

M When a puncture occurs, stop as soon

as it is safe to do so.

M Park on firm level ground, if  possible,

and well out of the way of other traffic.

M Use hazard warning lights if necessary. 

M If you have one, use a warning triangle to

alert other drivers of your presence.

M Apply the handbrake and engage first or

reverse gear.

M Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the

one being removed – a couple of large
stones will do for this.

M If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of

wood to spread the load under the foot
of the jack.

Finally...

M Remove the wheel chocks. Stow the

jack and tools in the appropriate
locations in the car.

M Don’t leave the spare wheel cradle

empty and unsecured – it could drop
onto the ground while the car is moving.

M Check the tyre pressure on the wheel

just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have
a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly
to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre
to the correct  pressure. Have the
damaged tyre or wheel repaired, or
renew it, as soon as possible.

From inside the boot area, use the
wheelbrace to lower the spare wheel
cradle.

Slide the spare wheel out from the
underside of the car.

For safety in the event of the jack
slipping, position the spare wheel under
the sill, close to the jacking point.

Remove the wheel trim (where fitted)
then slacken each wheel bolt by a half
turn.

Locate the jack below the reinforced
jacking point and on firm ground (don’t
jack the car at any other point on the sill).

Turn the jack handle clockwise until the
wheel is raised clear of the ground,
remove the bolts and lift the wheel clear.

Position the spare wheel and fit the
bolts. Tighten moderately with the wheel-
brace, then lower the car to the ground.

Tighten the wheel bolts in the sequence
shown, fit the wheel trim, and secure the
punctured wheel in the spare wheel
cradle.

Changing the wheel

Preparation

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by
other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of
passing traffic while changing the wheel – it is easy to become distracted by
the job in hand.

1

2

3

6

5

4

7

8

Roadside repairs  0•9

When all else fails, you may find yourself
having to get a tow home – or of course you
may be helping somebody else. Long-distance
recovery should only be done by a garage or
breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY
towing using another car is easy enough, but
observe the following points:
M Use a proper tow-rope – they are not
expensive. The vehicle being towed must
display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window.
M Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’
position when the vehicle is being towed, so
that the steering lock is released, and that the
direction indicator and brake lights will work.

M Only attach the tow-rope to the towing
eyes provided.
M Before being towed, release the handbrake
and select neutral on the transmission.
M Note that greater-than-usual pedal
pressure will be required to operate the
brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only
operational with the engine running.
M On models with power steering, greater-
than-usual steering effort will also be required.
M The driver of the car being towed must keep
the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching.
M Make sure that both drivers know the route
before setting off.

M Only drive at moderate speeds and keep
the distance towed to a minimum. Drive
smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing
down at junctions.
M On models with automatic transmission,
special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not
tow, or transmission damage may result.
M Do not tow BH type gearbox models with
the front wheels on the ground for long
distances, as the engine lubrication system
also supplies pressure-fed oil to the gears and
differential bearings Unnecessary wear may
occur if the car is towed with the engine
stopped.

Towing

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or

obvious wetness under the bonnet or 
underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs
investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to
decide where the leak is coming from,
especially if the engine bay is very dirty
already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
rearwards by the passage of air under the car,
giving a false impression of where the
problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils
and fluids are poisonous. Wash
them off skin, and change out of
contaminated clothing, without
delay.

Identifying leaks

The smell of a fluid leaking
from the car may provide a
clue to what’s leaking. Some
fluids are distinctively

coloured. It may help to clean the car
carefully and to park it over some clean
paper overnight as an aid to locating the
source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only
occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil

Gearbox oil

Brake fluid

Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...

...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline
deposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
inboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost
certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
connectors on the steering rack.

0•10 Weekly checks

There are some very simple checks which
need only take a few minutes to carry out, but
which could save you a lot of inconvenience
and expense.

These "Weekly checks" require no great skill
or special tools, and the small amount of time
they take to perform could prove to be very
well spent, for example;

M Keeping an eye on tyre condition and
pressures, will not only help to stop them
wearing out prematurely, but could also save
your life.

M Many breakdowns are caused by electrical
problems. Battery-related faults are particularly
common, and a quick check on a regular basis
will often prevent the majority of these.

M If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the
first time you might know about it is when
your brakes don't work properly. Checking
the level regularly will give advance warning of
this kind of problem.

M If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost
of repairing any engine damage will be far
greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Introduction

§ TU series

Other engine similar

A

Engine oil level dipstick

B

Engine oil filler cap

C

Coolant expansion tank

D

Brake fluid reservoir

E

Screen washer fluid reservoir

F

Battery

Underbonnet check points

Weekly checks  0•11

Engine oil level

Before you start

4 Make sure that your car is on level ground.

4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,
or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
switched off. 

The correct oil

Modern engines place great demands on their
oil. It is very important that the correct oil for
your car is used (See “Lubricants, fluids and
tyre pressures”).

Car Care

l If you have to add oil frequently, you should
check whether you have any oil leaks. Place
some clean paper under the car overnight,
and check for stains in the morning. If there
are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil
(see “Fault Finding”).

l Always maintain the level between the
upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3).
If the level is too low severe engine damage
may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the
engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

If the oil is checked
immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the upper engine

components, resulting in an inaccurate
reading on the dipstick!

The dipstick top is often brightly coloured
for easy identification (see “Underbonnet
check points” on page 0•10 for exact

location). Withdraw the dipstick.

Using a clean rag or paper towel remove
all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean
dipstick  into the tube as far as it will go,

then withdraw it again.

Note the oil level on the end of the
dipstick, which should be between the
upper ("MAX") mark and lower ("MIN")

mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the
level from the lower mark to the upper mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap.
Unscrew  the cap and top-up the level; a
funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add

the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick
often.  Don’t overfill (see “Car Care” left).

1

2

3

4

Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank
pressure cap when the engine
is hot, as there is a very great
risk of scalding. Do not leave
open containers of coolant
about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

l With a sealed-type cooling system, adding
coolant should not be necessary on a regular
basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is
likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all
hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or
wetness, and rectify as necessary.

l It is important that antifreeze is used in the
cooling system all year round, not just during
the winter months. Don’t top-up with water
alone, as the antifreeze will become too
diluted.

Coolant level

The coolant level varies with engine
temperature. When cold, the coolant
level should be between the “MAX” and

“MIN” marks. When the engine is hot, the
level may rise slightly above the “MAX” mark.

Where the expansion tank has a level
indicator inside the expansion tank, the
coolant level should be between the

upper level indicator step (a) and lower step
(b). On all engines, when the coolant is hot,
the level may rise above the “MAX” mark or
level indicator step.

If topping-up is necessary, turn the
expansion tank cap slowly anti-clockwise
and wait until any pressure in the system

is released. Once any pressure is released,
unscrew it fully and lift it off. Add a mixture of
water and antifreeze through the filler neck until
the coolant is at the correct level. Refit the cap,
turning it clockwise as far as it will go to secure.

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2

3