Peugeot 405. Manual - part 22

23 Lift the engine/transmission out of the car,
ensuring that nothing is trapped or damaged.
Enlist the help of an assistant during this
procedure, as it will be necessary to tilt the
assembly slightly to clear the body panels. On
models equipped with anti-lock brakes, great
care must be taken to ensure that the anti-
lock braking system unit is not damaged
during the removal procedure.
24 Once the engine is high enough, lift it out
over the front of the body, and lower the unit
to the ground.

Separation

25 With the engine/transmission assembly
removed, support the assembly on suitable
blocks of wood, on a workbench (or alter-
natively, on a clean area of the workshop
floor).
26 Undo the retaining bolts, and remove the
flywheel lower cover plate (where fitted) from
the transmission.
27 On models with a “pull-type” clutch
release mechanism (see Chapter 6 for further
information), tap out the retaining pin or
unscrew the retaining bolt (as applicable), and
remove the clutch release lever from the top
of the release fork shaft. This is necessary to
allow the fork shaft to rotate freely, so that it
disengages from the release bearing as the
transmission is pulled away from the engine.
Make an alignment mark across the centre of
the clutch release fork shaft, using a scriber,
paint or similar, and mark its relative position
on the transmission housing (see Chapter 7A
for further information).
28 Slacken and remove the retaining bolts,
and remove the starter motor from the
transmission.
29 Ensure that both engine and transmission
are adequately supported, then slacken and
remove the remaining bolts securing the
transmission housing to the engine. Note the
correct fitted positions of each bolt (and the
relevant brackets) as they are removed, to use
as a reference on refitting.
30 Carefully withdraw the transmission from
the engine, ensuring that the weight of the
transmission is not allowed to hang on the
input shaft while it is engaged with the clutch
friction disc.
31 If they are loose, remove the locating
dowels from the engine or transmission, and
keep them in a safe place.
32 On models with a “pull-type” clutch, make
a second alignment mark on the transmission
housing, marking the relative position of the
release fork mark after removal. This should
indicate the angle at which the release fork is
positioned. The mark can then be used to
position the release fork prior to installation, to
ensure that the fork correctly engages with
the clutch release bearing as the transmission
is installed.

Refitting

33 If the engine and transmission have been
separated, perform the operations described

below in paragraphs 34 to 42. If not, proceed
as described from paragraph 43 onwards.
34 Apply a smear of high-melting-point
grease (Peugeot recommend the use of
Molykote BR2 plus - available from your
Peugeot dealer) to the splines of the
transmission input shaft. Do not apply too
much, otherwise there is a possibility of the
grease contaminating the clutch friction plate.
35 Ensure that the locating dowels are
correctly positioned in the engine or
transmission.
36 On models with a “pull-type” clutch,
before refitting, position the clutch release
bearing so that its arrow mark is pointing
upwards (bearing fork slots facing towards the
front of the engine), and align the release fork
shaft mark with the second mark made on the
transmission housing (release fork positioned
at approximately 60° to clutch housing face).
This will ensure that the release fork and
bearing will engage correctly as the
transmission is refitted to the engine.
37 Carefully offer the transmission to the
engine, until the locating dowels are engaged.
Ensure that the weight of the transmission is
not allowed to hang on the input shaft as it is
engaged with the clutch friction disc.
38 On models with a “pull-type” clutch, with
the transmission fully engaged with the
engine, check that the release fork and
bearing are correctly engaged. If the release
fork and bearing are correctly engaged, the
mark on the release fork should be aligned
with the original mark made on the
transmission housing (see Chapter 7A for
further information).
39 Refit the transmission housing-to-engine
bolts, ensuring that all the necessary brackets
are correctly positioned, and tighten them to
the specified torque setting.
40 Refit the starter motor, and securely
tighten its retaining bolts.
41 On models with a “pull-type” clutch
release mechanism, refit the clutch release
lever to the top of the release fork shaft,
securing it in position with its retaining pin or
bolt (as applicable).
42 Where necessary, refit the lower flywheel
cover plate to the transmission, and securely
tighten its retaining bolts.
43 Reconnect the hoist and lifting tackle to
the engine lifting brackets. With the aid of an
assistant, lift the assembly over the engine
compartment.
44 The assembly should be tilted as
necessary to clear the surrounding
components, as during removal; lower the
assembly into position in the engine
compartment, manipulating the hoist and
lifting tackle as necessary.
45 With the engine/transmission in position,
refit the right-hand engine/transmission
mounting bracket, tightening its retaining nuts
and bolts (as applicable) by hand only at this
stage.
46 Working on the left-hand mounting, refit
the mounting bracket (where removed) to the

body and tighten its retaining bolts to the
specified torque. Refit the mounting rubber
and refit the mounting retaining nuts and
washers and the centre nut and washer,
tightening them lightly only.
47 From underneath the vehicle, refit the rear
mounting link and install both its bolts.
48 Rock the engine to settle it on its
mountings then go around and tighten all the
mounting nuts and bolts to their specified
torque settings. Where necessary, once the
right-hand mounting bracket nuts have been
tightened, refit the rubber damper and curved
retaining plate, tightening its retaining bolts to
the specified torque. The hoist can then be
detached from the engine and removed.
49 The remainder of the refitting procedure is
a direct reversal of the removal sequence,
noting the following points:

a) Ensure that the wiring loom is correctly

routed and retained by all the relevant
retaining clips; all connectors should be
correctly and securely reconnected.

b) Prior to refitting the driveshafts to the

transmission, renew the driveshaft oil
seals as described in Chapter 7A.

c) Ensure that all coolant hoses are correctly

reconnected, and securely retained by
their retaining clips.

d) Adjust the clutch cable as described in

Chapter 6.

e) Adjust the choke cable and/or accelerator

cable (as applicable) as described in the
relevant Part of Chapter 4.

f) Refill the engine and transmission with

correct quantity and type of lubricant, as
described in Chapter 7A.

g) Refill the cooling system as described in

Chapter 1.

5

Engine and automatic
transmission - removal,
separation and refitting

4

Removal

Note: The engine can be removed from the
car only as a complete unit with the
transmission; the two are then separated for
overhaul.
1 Carry out the relevant operations described
in paragraphs 1 to 24 of Section 4, noting that
the transmission oil draining procedure is
given in Chapter 1. Before lifting the engine
from the engine compartment, carry out the
following operations, using the information
given in Chapter 7B:

a) Remove the transmission dipstick tube.
b) Disconnect the wiring from the starter

inhibitor/reversing light switch and the
speedometer drive housing. Release the
earth strap(s) from the top of the
transmission housing.

c) Disconnect the selector cable.
d) Release the power steering pipe from the

transmission.

e) Disconnect the speedometer cable.

2C•6 Engine removal and overhaul

Separation

2 With the engine/transmission assembly
removed, support the assembly on suitable
blocks of wood, on a workbench (or failing
that, on a clean area of the workshop floor).
3 Detach the kickdown cable from the throttle
cam. Work back along the cable, freeing it
from any retaining clips, and noting its correct
routing.
4 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the
driveplate lower cover plate from the
transmission, to gain access to the torque
converter retaining bolts. Slacken and remove
the visible bolt. Rotate the crankshaft using a
socket and extension bar on the pulley bolt,
and undo the remaining bolts securing the
torque converter to the driveplate as they
become accessible. There are three bolts in
total.
5 Slacken and remove the retaining bolts,
and remove the starter motor from the
transmission.
6 To ensure that the torque converter does
not fall out as the transmission is removed,
secure it in position using a length of metal
strip bolted to one of the starter motor bolt
holes.
7 Ensure that both the engine and
transmission are adequately supported, then
slacken and remove the remaining bolts
securing the transmission housing to the
engine. Note the correct fitted positions of
each bolt (and any relevant brackets) as they
are removed, to use as a reference on
refitting.
8 Carefully withdraw the transmission from
the engine. If the locating dowels are a loose
fit in the engine/transmission, remove them
and keep them in a safe place.

Refitting

9 If the engine and transmission have been
separated, perform the operations described
below in paragraphs 10 to 16. If not, proceed
as described from paragraph 17 onwards.
10 Ensure that the bush fitted to the centre of
the crankshaft is in good condition. Apply a
little Molykote G1 grease (available from your
Peugeot dealer) to the torque converter
centring pin. Do not apply too much,
otherwise there is a possibility of the grease
contaminating the torque converter.
11 Ensure that the locating dowels are
correctly positioned in the engine or
transmission.
12 Carefully offer the transmission to the
engine, until the locating dowels are engaged.
13 Refit the transmission housing-to-engine
bolts, ensuring that all the necessary brackets
are correctly positioned, and tighten them to
the specified torque setting.
14 Remove the torque converter retaining
strap installed prior to removal. Align the
torque converter threaded holes with the
retaining plate, and refit the three retaining
bolts.
15 Tighten the torque converter retaining

bolts to the specified torque setting, then refit
the driveplate lower cover.
16 Refit the starter motor, and securely
tighten its retaining bolts.
17 Refit the engine to the vehicle with
reference to Section 4.
18 The remainder of the refitting procedure is
a reversal of the removal sequence, noting the
following points:

a) Ensure that the wiring loom is correctly

routed, and retained by all the relevant
retaining clips; all connectors should be
correctly and securely reconnected.

b) Prior to refitting the driveshafts to the

transmission, renew the driveshaft oil
seals as described in Chapter 7B.

c) Ensure that all coolant hoses are correctly

reconnected, and securely retained by
their retaining clips.

d) Adjust the selector cable and kickdown

cable as described in Chapter 7B.

e) Adjust the accelerator cable as described

in Chapter 4.

f) Refill the engine and transmission with

correct quantity and type of lubricant, as
described in Chapter 1.

g) Refill the cooling system as described in

Chapter 1.

6

Engine overhaul - 
dismantling sequence

1 It is much easier to dismantle and work on
the engine if it is mounted on a portable
engine stand. These stands can often be hired
from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is
mounted on a stand, the flywheel/driveplate
should be removed, so that the stand bolts
can be tightened into the end of the cylinder
block/crankcase.
2 If a stand is not available, it is possible to
dismantle the engine with it blocked up on a
sturdy workbench, or on the floor. Be extra-
careful not to tip or drop the engine when
working without a stand.
3 If you are going to obtain a reconditioned
engine, all the external components must be
removed first, to be transferred to the
replacement engine (just as they will if you are
doing a complete engine overhaul yourself).
These components include the following:

a) Alternator mounting brackets.
b) Power steering pump and air conditioning

compressor brackets (where fitted).

c) Thermostat and housing, and coolant

outlet chamber/elbow (Chapter 3).

d) Dipstick tube.
e) Carburettor/fuel system components

(Chapter 4).

f) All electrical switches and sensors.
g) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Chapter 4).
h) Oil filter (Chapter 1).
i) Fuel pump - carburettor engines only

(Chapter 4).

j) Flywheel/driveplate (Part A or B of this

Chapter).

Note:

When removing the external

components from the engine, pay close
attention to details that may be helpful or
important during refitting. Note the fitted
position of gaskets, seals, spacers, pins,
washers, bolts, and other small items.
4 If you are obtaining a “short” engine (which
consists of the engine cylinder block/
crankcase, crankshaft, pistons and
connecting rods all assembled), then the
cylinder head, sump, oil pump, and timing belt
will have to be removed also.
5 If you are planning a complete overhaul, the
engine can be dismantled, and the internal
components removed, in the order given
below, referring to Part A or B of this Chapter
unless otherwise stated.

a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Chapter 4).
b) Timing belt, sprockets and tensioner(s).
c) Cylinder head.
d) Flywheel/driveplate.
e) Sump.
f) Oil pump.
g) Piston/connecting rod assemblies

(Section 10).

h) Crankshaft (Section 11).

6 Before beginning the dismantling and
overhaul procedures, make sure that you have
all of the correct tools necessary. Refer to
“Tools and working facilities” for further
information.

7

Cylinder head - dismantling

3

Note: New and reconditioned cylinder heads
are available from the manufacturer, and from
engine overhaul specialists. Be aware that
some specialist tools are required for the
dismantling and inspection procedures, and
new components may not be readily available.
It may therefore be more practical and
economical for the home mechanic to
purchase a reconditioned head, rather than
dismantle, inspect and recondition the original
head.
1 Remove the cylinder head as described in
Part A or B of this Chapter (as applicable).
2 If not already done, remove the inlet and
exhaust manifolds with reference to the
relevant Part of Chapter 4.
3 Remove the camshaft(s), followers and
shims (as applicable) as described in Part A or
B of this Chapter.
4 Using a valve spring compressor, compress
each valve spring in turn until the split collets
can be removed. Release the compressor,
and lift off the spring retainer, spring and
spring seat. Using a pair of pliers, carefully
extract the valve stem seal from the top of the
guide (see illustrations).
5 If, when the valve spring compressor is
screwed down, the spring retainer refuses to
free and expose the split collets, gently tap
the top of the tool, directly over the retainer,
with a light hammer. This will free the retainer.

Engine removal and overhaul  2C•7

2C

6 Withdraw the valve through the combustion
chamber.
7 It is essential that each valve is stored
together with its collets, retainer, spring, and
spring seat. The valves should also be kept in
their correct sequence, unless they are so
badly worn that they are to be renewed. If
they are going to be kept and used again,
place each valve assembly in a labelled
polythene bag or similar small container (see
illustration). Note that No 1 valve is nearest to
the transmission (flywheel/driveplate) end of
the engine.
8 On XU engines extract the gauze oil filter
from the oil gallery in the cylinder head (see
illustration).

8

Cylinder head and valves -
cleaning and inspection

2

1 Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head and
valve components, followed by a detailed
inspection, will enable you to decide how
much valve service work must be carried out
during the engine overhaul. Note: If the
engine has been severely overheated, it is best
to assume that the cylinder head is warped -
check carefully for signs of this.

Cleaning

2 Scrape away all traces of old gasket
material from the cylinder head.
3 Scrape away the carbon from the
combustion chambers and ports, then wash
the cylinder head thoroughly with paraffin or a
suitable solvent.

4 Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits that
may have formed on the valves, then use a
power-operated wire brush to remove
deposits from the valve heads and stems.

Inspection

Note: Be sure to perform all the following
inspection procedures before concluding that
the services of a machine shop or engine
overhaul specialist are required. Make a list of
all items that require attention.

Cylinder head

5 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks,
evidence of coolant leakage, and other
damage. If cracks are found, a new cylinder
head should be obtained.
6 Use a straight-edge and feeler blade to
check that the cylinder head surface is not
distorted (see illustration). If it is, it may be
possible to have it machined, provided that

8.6  Checking the cylinder head gasket

surface for distortion

7.8  Oil filter partly withdrawn from the oil

gallery in the cylinder head

7.7  Place each valve and its associated

components in a labelled polythene bag

2C•8 Engine removal and overhaul

7.4a  Compress the valve spring using a

spring compressor . . .

7.4c  Remove the spring retainer . . .

7.4f  Remove the valve stem oil seal using

a pair of pliers

7.4e  . . . and the spring seat

7.4d  . . . followed by the valve spring . . .

7.4b  . . . then extract the collets and

release the spring compressor

the cylinder head is not reduced to less than
the specified height.
7 Examine the valve seats in each of the
combustion chambers. If they are severely
pitted, cracked, or burned, they will need to
be renewed or re-cut by an engine overhaul
specialist. If they are only slightly pitted, this
can be removed by grinding-in the valve
heads and seats with fine valve-grinding
compound, as described below.
8 Check the valve guides for wear by
inserting the relevant valve, and checking for
side-to-side motion of the valve. A very small
amount of movement is acceptable. If the
movement seems excessive, remove the
valve. Measure the valve stem diameter (see
below), and renew the valve if it is worn. If the
valve stem is not worn, the wear must be in
the valve guide, and the guide must be
renewed. The renewal of valve guides is best
carried out by a Peugeot dealer or engine
overhaul specialist, who will have the
necessary tools available. Where no valve
stem diameter is specified, seek the advice of
a Peugeot dealer on the best course of action.
9 If renewing the valve guides, the valve seats
should be re-cut or re-ground only after the
guides have been fitted.

Valves

10 Examine the head of each valve for
pitting, burning, cracks, and general wear.
Check the valve stem for scoring and wear
ridges. Rotate the valve, and check for any
obvious indication that it is bent. Look for pits
or excessive wear on the tip of each valve
stem. Renew any valve that shows any such
signs of wear or damage.
11 If the valve appears satisfactory at this
stage, measure the valve stem diameter at
several points using a micrometer (see
illustration). Any significant difference in the
readings obtained indicates wear of the valve
stem. Should any of these conditions be
apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed.
12 If the valves are in satisfactory condition,
they should be ground (lapped) into their
respective seats, to ensure a smooth, gas-
tight seal. If the seat is only lightly pitted, or if
it has been re-cut, fine grinding compound
only should be used to produce the required
finish. Coarse valve-grinding compound
should not be used, unless a seat is badly
burned or deeply pitted. If this is the case, the

cylinder head and valves should be inspected
by an expert, to decide whether seat re-
cutting, or even the renewal of the valve or
seat insert (where possible) is required.
13 Valve grinding is done as follows. Place
the cylinder head upside-down on a bench.
14 Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade
of) valve-grinding compound on the seat face,
and press a suction grinding tool onto the
valve head (see illustration). With a semi-
rotary action, grind the valve head to its seat,
lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute the
grinding compound. A light spring placed
under the valve head will greatly ease this
operation.
15 If coarse grinding compound is being
used, work only until a dull, matt even surface
is produced on both the valve seat and the
valve, then wipe off the used compound, and
repeat the process with fine compound. When
a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt
finish is produced on both the valve and seat,
the grinding operation is complete. Do not
grind-in the valves any further than absolutely
necessary, or the seat will be prematurely
sunk into the cylinder head.
16 When all the valves have been ground-in,
carefully wash off all traces of grinding
compound using paraffin or a suitable solvent,
before reassembling the cylinder head.

Valve components

17 Examine the valve springs for signs of
damage and discoloration. No minimum free
length is specified by Peugeot, so the only
way of judging valve spring wear is by
comparison with a new component.
18 Stand each spring on a flat surface, and

check it for squareness. If any of the springs
are damaged, distorted or have lost their
tension, obtain a complete new set of springs.
It is normal to renew the valve springs as a
matter of course if a major overhaul is being
carried out.
19 Renew the valve stem oil seals regardless
of their apparent condition.

9

Cylinder head - reassembly

3

1 Lubricate the stems of the valves, and
insert the valves into their original locations
(see illustration). If new valves are being
fitted, insert them into the locations to which
they have been ground.
2 Refit the spring seat then, working on the
first valve, dip the new valve stem seal in fresh
engine oil. Carefully locate it over the valve
and onto the guide. Take care not to damage
the seal as it is passed over the valve stem.
Use a suitable socket or metal tube to press
the seal firmly onto the guide (see
illustration).
3 Locate the valve spring on top of its seat,
then refit the spring retainer.
4 Compress the valve spring, and locate the
split collets in the recess in the valve stem.
Release the compressor, then repeat the
procedure on the remaining valves.

5 With all the valves installed, place the
cylinder head flat on the bench and, using a
hammer and interposed block of wood, tap
the end of each valve stem to settle the
components.
6 Refit the camshaft(s), followers and shims
(as applicable) as described in Part A or B of
this Chapter.
7 On XU engines refit the gauze oil filter
(clean) to the oil gallery in the cylinder head. If
the filter is damaged fit a new one.
8 The cylinder head can then be refitted as
described in Part A or B of this Chapter.

Engine removal and overhaul  2C•9

9.1  Lubricate the valve stems 

prior to refitting

8.14  Grinding-in a valve

8.11  Measuring a valve stem diameter

2C

9.2  Fitting a valve stem oil seal 

using a socket

Use a little dab of grease to
hold the collets on the valve
stem while the spring
compressor is released.