675
plastic button. At that point I threw in the towel, pried the case off, and formed some thin card to fit around the inside
of the case and prevent shorting once and for all. No problems since.”
Another possibility, obviously, would be to replace the switch with something non-Lucas. It is a very simple switch, so
perhaps a suitable substitute can be found. The contacts must be open when the button is released and connected to
each other when the button is pushed. Make sure neither terminal connects to ground under any circumstances.
Another possibility would be to install a totally different kind of switch, perhaps in a different location. A microswitch
with a long integral lever could be used, which allows the large motion of the pedal to reliably operate the switch. Just
make up a little bracket to hold it where the pedal arm will hit it when it’s in the fully released position.
Yet another idea would be to install a relay. You can connect the YW wires to the C and NO contacts of the relay, and
provide ignition-switched 12V to one side of the relay coil and connect the other side to one terminal of the pedal
switch. Connect a wire from the other terminal of the pedal switch to ground. That way, a short to ground in the switch
would look just like the switch is closed, enabling the system but not hurting any components. Things would still work
even if shorted when the pedal is pushed, because this is merely a safety feature; the primary means of entering disable
mode when the brake pedal is pushed is via a 12V signal from the brake light circuit.
Finally, you could simply omit the switch altogether and just connect the YW wires together; as mentioned above, the
system will still work normally since this is only a safety device. It’s a rather important safety device, however, so this
method is not recommended.
Once you have the switch problems corrected, you’ll need to fix the fried transistors in the ECU. Segal says, “I’ve
found that most of the time (except when you really need it) the cruise ECU’s can be repaired by replacing two of the
transistors inside. They are in the lower left hand corner of the board. The board is arranged so that the wiring harness
comes off the left side. The transistors are labelled ZTX650 and ZTX750. They can be replaced by Motorola MPS650
and MPS750. Very easy and very cheap.”
“The ECU part number is DAC4293. The older part number is DAC3672. The DAC4293 definitely can be fixed, I
don’t remember if the older one uses the same circuit.” (Ed. note: The ECU in the author’s ’83 is DAC3134 and
contains these same transistors.)
“The original transistors are Zetex ZTX650 and ZTX750. Digi-Key (
http://www.digi-key.com
) sells Zetex so these
parts should be available through them. You can use ZTX750 and ZTX751 as well.”
Walter Petermann adds, “I use ZTX753 for the power out to the yellow/white wire, and ZTX653 for the control
signal on the yellow/black wire. They are rated for 2amps (6amps peak). Digikey (800 344 4539) stocks them at
$0.78 under the above part #. They have a minimum order but I don't know what that might be.”
ECU REPLACEMENT: If your actuator and bellows are OK but your ECU is toast and you’re the kind of guy who
tinkers with a soldering iron, “600 Low-Cost Electronic Circuits” by David M. Gauthier, ©1989, includes
instructions for building a speed control unit using an RCA CA3228E IC plus four transistors and a handful of
resistors and capacitors. The actuator shown in the schematic has the same arrangement of vacuum solenoid valves
as the Jaguar actuator so this project should provide a usable replacement ECU. Presumably there are many other
similar how-to books that include directions for making a cruise control unit.
SURGING WITH TURN SIGNALS: The author of this book may be the only owner who’s ever had this problem, but
I’ll report on it anyway. Whenever cruising with the cruise control set and a turn signal was first turned on, the car
would surge forward briefly. Then, after the EFI ECU was modified to provide better throttle response, the car would
surge on each blink of the turn signals! Once the turn signal was cancelled, the car would return to its original set speed
-- a clear indication that the problem was not due to a crossconnection between the set switch and the turn signal switch,
since a “set” signal would cause the car to increase speed and maintain the increased speed after the signal is removed.