Jaguar XJ-S. Manual - part 58

 

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Jaguar XJ-S. Manual - part 58

 

 

 
 

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weatherstripping that’s perhaps twice the width of the gap, it’ll stay in place just by friction; there’s no need for the 
adhesive on the weatherstripping to stick to anything. 

If the upper radiator support rail is off, make sure to seal it against the top of the radiator, against the top of the A/C 
condenser, and against the top of the fan shroud before reinstalling it.  The top of the A/C condenser in particular may 
have such a huge opening that it doesn’t even appear sealable; you may need to stack 1/2” foam tape two or three layers 
high to fill the hole. 

 

FRONT SPOILER:  It’s important to have the front spoiler in place.  Engine cooling relies on air coming in through the 
radiator, and it must have a place to go.  The XJ-S does not have vents through the hood or out the sides, so all this air 
must go out the bottom.  The front spoiler is designed to direct air either into the radiator or around the sides of the car, 
and to restrict air from going under the nose of the car as much as possible.  This results in low pressure under the car, 
so the air going through the engine compartment can easily flow out that way. 

However, if the spoiler is missing, air can flow right under the nose of the car unimpeded.  This increases the pressure 
under the front of the car, which in turn resists the outflow from the engine compartment.  The air coming in through 
the radiator cannot escape as easily, and builds up pressure in the engine compartment.  The resulting backpressure 
prevents as much air flowing through the radiator.  It also tends to cause significant lift on the front end (try multiplying 
a very small pressure over the entire area of the front half of the car; the total lift can be very large indeed) and can 
cause the car to “wander” at high speed. 

 

HEATER CONTROL VALVE:  See page 493. 

 

Post-Shutdown Cooling 

 

It it commonly acknowledged that the worst cooling problem the XJ-S has is not when running but after shutdown.  
The small electric fan runs after shutdown if the thermal switch has it running when the engine is shut off, but once the 
switch cuts out -- which it does all too soon, since it is reading coolant temperature at radiator outlet -- it will not come 
on again.  700 pounds of hot engine plus hot exhaust manifolds and hot catalytic convertors tend to raise the underhood 
temperatures after shutdown considerably higher than they ever were while running, and there are indications that parts 
of the engine itself get hotter after shutdown as well. 

There are three problems generally associated with post-shutdown heating:  Dropped valve seats, hot start difficulties, 
and heat-stressed engine compartment components.  The exact mechanism of dropped valve seats is unclear, but several 
owners have suffered dropped seats after a hot shutdown rather than while running.  The other two problems are 
clearer, and result from the high temperature of the air surrounding the engine -- and all the extraneous components that 
are heated by the air.  Since there is no longer fuel flow in the rail, the fuel sitting in it gets hotter and hotter, causing 
serious hot start problems that Jaguar has addressed with a coupla different types of fuel rail temp sensor providing fuel 
enrichment.  The post-shutdown underhood temperatures are clearly a key cause of deteriorated hoses, brittle wiring, 
short-lived electrical components, and a host of other traditional Jaguar afflictions. 

This section includes several ideas for dealing with the post-shutdown temperatures.  Most address primarily the 
temperature of the air within the engine compartment, which may or may not have a significant effect on the 
temperature of the heads themselves in the vicinity of the valve seats. 

 

HOOD VENTS:  Just the ticket for letting the heat rise naturally out of the hood after shutdown.  It’s a body 
modification, so it’s discussed further on page 470. 

 

 
 

228

ELECTRIC COOLING FAN BOOTSTRAP CIRCUIT:  The electric fan includes a “bootstrap” circuit, so that if the 
coolant is hot enough for the fan to be running when the engine is shut off, the fan will continue to run until the coolant 
temperature switch shuts it off.  Once off, the bootstrap circuit drops out and the fan cannot start again, no matter what. 

Other cars -- notably Japanese and other FWD 4-bangers -- have cooling fans that cycle on and off for quite a while 
after the engine is shut off.  Clearly, they are wired so that the fan will run if the thermostat calls for it, regardless of 
whether the ignition is on or not.  It is also evident that they come on -- indicating that once they shut off the first time, 
they may still be needed again.  Probably the engine heat soaking through the compartment. 

Why did Jaguar provide this bootstrap circuit, rather than just wiring the fan to run when needed like the Japanese cars? 
 There would be two possible results if the bootstrap weren’t in there:  1) The fan would never come on after shutting 
off the first time -- meaning that the bootstrap circuit was unnecessary; or 2) the fan would come on after shutting 
down, which means it needs to come on and the bootstrap circuit is contributing to the cooking of the engine parts! 

The only plausible explanations:  A) Jaguar was afraid the Lucas thermostat would fail in the on position and kill the 
battery; B) they didn’t feel that a fan kicking on and off in the parking lot was in keeping with the proper Jaguar image; 
or C) they were worried about liability from someone having their fingers in there when a fan came on unexpectedly.  
Stuart Barnes adds D) “Many car alarms are voltage sensing and although they can cope with a voltage rise (to allow an 
electric fan to run and then stop) a lot of the aftermarket varieties can’t cope with the voltage drop that would occur 
when the fan came back on.” 

For those of us who are more concerned with the life of our machines, keep our fingers out of moving machinery as a 
force of habit, and don’t have such alarm system concerns, it might be a good idea to rewire that circuit to run the fan 
whenever necessary.  It’s easy to do:  On the left side of the engine compartment is a small blue box that looks like a 
relay, but it’s the diode pack (see page 224).  Pull the LG wire off of terminal 4 and connect it to a 12V power supply.  
There is a 12V supply available at the solid brown wires at the headlight fusebox just a few inches forward of the diode 
pack. 

Note that, if you have headlight washers and wipers, the blue box might not be the fan diode pack.  See page 224. 

 

ENGINE COMPARTMENT AIR TEMP SENSOR:  Another way to get the electric cooling fan to run longer after 
shutdown might involve adding an air temperature thermostat within the engine compartment -- preferably high and 
rearward, where the post-shutdown cooking problems are the worst.  This thermostat could be set at a much lower 
temperature than the one in the coolant and still wouldn’t come into play while the car is moving or the engine-driven 
fan is circulating air.  But if the air starts getting hotter after shutdown, it can come on -- even if the coolant in the water 
pump isn’t that hot -- and flow some cool air through the engine compartment. 

Imperial makes a dandy little “Adjustable Thermostat for Electric Cooling Fans”, number 226203, available at Discount 
Auto Parts.  It’s really an air temp thermostat.  It has a remote bulb sensor and includes instructions for mounting right 
on the back side of the radiator core, but you could mount it anywhere -- even on the underside of the hood!  The 
thermostat is adjustable from 248°F to 32°F, and the contacts are heavy enough to control fans directly without relays. 

 

ELECTRIC COOLING FAN POST-SHUTDOWN TIMER:  Michael Aiken’s plan:  forget relying on temp sensors 
and simply provide a timer that runs the fan for a fixed amount of time after shutdown.  Aiken used one of the existing 
10-minute seat heater timers to provide this fan operation, and provided the wiring scheme shown in Figure 12 which 
automatically starts the fan running on the timer whenever the engine is fully warmed up and shut off.  Aiken points out 
that this is not an unheard-of idea; the Nissan 300ZX uses a similar scheme with a 17-minute timer. 

 
 

229

RELAY

+

-

THERMAL
SWITCH

PUSHBUTTON
W/ INDICATOR

30

86

85

87

1

4

3

5

2

2

3

1

4

TO FAN
RELAY

FROM A/C

DIODE
PACK

12V

TIMER

IGNITION

(POSITION

2 AND 3)

GN

GN

W

 

Figure 12 - Post-Shutdown Cooling Fan Timer 

Aiken describes this scheme:  “The timer is activated by grounding pin 1 and then releasing it.  It will not activate if pin 
1 is held to ground.  I left the manual switch (on the side of the console) wired in so the light would show when the fan 
is on, but that is optional.”  Having the pushbutton may have an additional benefit: you can push the button to force 10 
minutes of fan operation whenever you wish.  This might be handy if, for example, you get stuck in downtown traffic; 
you can simply tell the fan to run continuously for 10 minutes rather than cycle on and off with the thermostatic switch 
operation. 

“The capacitor is a 2000µfd electrolyte and the diode is 3 amp.  The capacitor attaches to ignition key 12V output in 
position 2 and 3.  This is important to keep the fan from coming on during startup (position 3).”  Ed. note:  the wires 
that meet this criteria are white, as has been indicated on the schematic.  They are connected to terminal 3 on the 
ignition switch. 

“When 12V is applied to the capacitor it charges through the diode.  When the ignition is turned off the capacitor 
discharges back through the relay momentarily (about .5 seconds) activating it and starting the timer relay.  The fan 
runs for 10 minutes and then shuts off.  The thermostat in the ground leg prevents the capacitor discharge if the engine 
is not yet warmed up.  The capacitor does hold the charge and will discharge later if the temp reaches the set temp -- 
even several minutes after shutdown.  I set my temp at 180ºF.” 

The schematic shows the output of the timer (pin 4) connected through a diode to the wire from terminal 1 on the diode 
pack to the fan relay, so it will directly close the relay and operate the fan.  Radio Shack catalog number 276-1661 will 
serve nicely for this diode as well as the other one used in this scheme.  In this application on the timer output, the diode 
only serves to make the indicator light show that the timer is engaged.  If this diode is omitted, the system will still work 

 
 

230

just dandy but the light will be on whenever the fan is running, even if it is the A/C compressor control or the stock 
coolant switch operating it. 

If you happen to have one of the later cars where the A/C compressor does not bring on the electric fan (as Aiken has), 
you don’t have to buy a new diode for this task; there’s an unused one in the diode pack.  Just connect pin 4 of the timer 
directly to terminal 3 of the diode pack. 

Aiken also points out that this scheme doesn’t have to control the small stock electric fan; it could be used just as well 
to control an aftermarket electric fan, or anything else electrical you’d like to run for 10 minutes after shutdown.  The 
use of a marine bilge vent fan has even been suggested.  It’s probably not a good idea to operate a large fan or multiple 
fans; it shouldn’t take much airflow to keep the underhood temperatures within reason, and you don’t want to strain the 
battery.  The fact is, the stock Jag small fan is probably perfect for this job. 

Since Aiken used the seat heater controls, the schematic shows the timer and the pushbutton with indicator light as they 
appear in the Jaguar seat heater schematics.  Of course, if you’d rather leave your seat heaters wired as originally 
intended -- or if you have an earlier car that doesn’t even have seat heaters -- you can simply buy a new timer from 
Jaguar, or perhaps a generic timer (or maybe the one from a Nissan!).  You can simply leave the pushbutton and 
indicator light (and the related diode) out of the circuitry altogether if you wish and connect terminal 30 of the relay 
directly to pin 1 on the timer.  Or, you can buy any generic momentary pushbutton switch; don’t let the excessively 
complicated Jaguar illustration fool you, that heater switch is just a normal momentary single contact switch with a 
built-in indicator light.  If it’s only the indicator light you want, you can skip the switch altogether and simply buy any 
generic 12V indicator and connect it to pin 4 on the timer and to ground and mount it anywhere convenient -- or you 
could wire it to one of the unneeded warning lights in the dash. 

Aiken apparently left his timer where it was originally mounted behind the dash, but if you’re installing a new timer 
you can pretty well choose anywhere to install it.  Other than 12V power -- any brown wire -- the only thing you really 
need is access to a suitable white ignition wire, and they are all over the car -- even going to the EFI power relay in the 
trunk.  There is also one to the ignition system on the engine, so it’s possible to install all of this stuff someplace near 
the fan itself -- perhaps in front of the radiator, or in the compartment behind a headlight -- and not have to run any 
wires into the passenger compartment, provided you don’t want a pushbutton or indicator light. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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