83
Does anyone make Teflon valve stem seals for the XJ-S? Carpentier: “Perfect Circle does, although unwittingly since I
doubt they ever considered Jaguar engines as a possible application for their product. Our valve guide diameter is
0.502 to 0.501 in, that's essentially 1/2" or sixteen (16) thirty secondths of an inch. Valve stem diameter is 0.3092 to
0.3093 in, and that's within 3 thou of 5/16" or ten (10) thirty secondths of an inch. These dimensions are a bit unusual
but luckily match those of the first generation Chrysler Hemi engines. Call Perfect Circle (they are a DANA
subsidiary) and they will tell you: "Yes, we manufacture such Teflon seals, part number D1610, available at any
NAPA auto store".
“There is a catch: if you go to NAPA and ask for this reference, they look it up in their computer and tell you it does not
exist (never mind telling them what kind of car it is for...). The last time I was in the US, I finally found a place in Los
Angeles that would order them for me. The seals actually came from a company called Silver Seals Products/Whip-L
Products, Trenton, Michigan, 1-800-521-2936; their reference is DT1610 but the seals carry the Perfect Circle logo.”
This author called that 800 number, and had a set of 24 Teflon valve seals on order in a matter of minutes and in hand
in a week at a cost of less than a dollar each. For those outside the US where an 800 number won’t work, their regular
phone number is +1 (734) 479-2255.
The OEM nitrile seals on the inlet valves are pressed over the valve guide until they snap into a groove around the
guide just above the surface of the head. The exhaust valve guides have no such groove. This turns out to be a non-
issue with the Teflon seals; these seals press fit onto the OD of the valve guide, and therefore do not use the snap
groove. While the OEM seals are a simplistic piece of rubber, the Teflon seals include a metal ring on each diameter to
provide a secure fit on the guide and on the valve stem itself.
Besides the diameters of the guide and stem, there are a few other things to consider whenever fitting a non-OEM valve
stem seal to an engine. In this case, the OD of the base fits within the inner spring just fine. The Teflon seal is a little
taller than the original seal, which makes for a really close fit; the valve lift is 3/8”, and that’s pretty much right where
the valve keepers sit down on the top of the seal’s lip. If you intend to run an aftermarket cam with more lift, you’ll
need to either use the shorter OEM seals or make some other changes, like shortening the keepers or the guides.
Installation is not as simple as with the nitrile seals. Carpentier: “You cannot push them in as you would plain vanilla
seals. With your package you should get a clear and rather flimsy plastic tube closed at one end. Slipped over the valve
stem, it protects the seal as you first push it over the stem end (push with your thumb with a slight rocking motion to get
started) then slide it over the cotter groove. Trim this sleeve so it still covers the groove but does not stay trapped under
the seal when fully home.” Note: on the valve stems, just below the groove, the part number is engraved; might as well
leave the sleeve long enough to cover the number too, just to make sure you don’t damage the seals going over it.
“When you start, remember (24 times!) to put the spring seat first as it does not fit over the seal. This is especially
important as a teflon seal cannot be removed without being destroyed: 1) it is hard to pull it from the guide without
distorting it and 2) as it goes back over the cotter groove, the sealing surface between stem and seal will be damaged.”
Clearly, you need to have the valve in place before installing the seal and you can’t remove it afterward, so make sure
you are actually at the final assembly stage (all lapping completed, etc.) before installing seals.
“Now you need to push the seal over the guide. Use a tube (e.g. a deep socket) with ID greater than the narrow upper
section and a rubber mallet. A first blow will get you over the guide chamfer, then tap it all the way in. Don't hammer
too hard though or the upper portion will shear off as you hit bottom.” Note: this author has done this job, and it’s a lot
easier than it sounds.
EXHAUST FLOW LIMITATIONS: Roger Bywater explains an inherent shortcoming of the H.E. engine: “The small
and pocketed exhaust valves are the real problem and is why all the high performance racing V12s have been based on
the old "flat head" design. Putting big exhaust valves in doesn't help because the chamber walls are so close and leave
no room for flow around the edge of the bigger valve head. In fact if the HE were not of abnormally high compression
ratio, always a useful trick to get a bit more top end power out of an engine that doesn't breathe, it would struggle to
produce the barely adequate power that it gives as standard. You can build an HE to 6 or more litres (we used to do a
6.3 using 98 mm bore and standard crank) but all you really get is more torque low down but not much more power.”