Ford Fiesta (1989-1995). Instruction - part 16

the transmission are absolutely clean and
flat. Any shims found on removal of the
sump must be refitted in their original
locations.

b)

Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Ford
recommend Hylosil 102) to the junctions
of the cylinder block/crankcase with the
oil pump and the crankshaft left-hand oil
seal carrier. Without delay - the sump
bolts must be fully tightened within 10 to
20 minutes of applying the sealant - offer
up the sump and engine/transmission
lower adapter plate, and refit the bolts,
tightening them lightly at first.

c)

Ensuring that the engine/transmission
lower adapter plate is correctly located,
firmly press the sump against the
transmission, and tighten the
transmission-to-sump (ie, engine) bolts to
the specified torque wrench setting.

d)

Without disturbing the position of the
sump, and working in a diagonal
sequence from the centre outwards,
tighten the sump bolts to the specified
torque wrench setting.

e)

Proceed to paragraph 14.

13 If the sump is being refitted with the
engine and transmission separated (in or out
of the vehicle), proceed as follows:
a)

Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Ford
recommend Hylosil 102) to the junctions
of the cylinder block/crankcase with the
oil pump and the crankshaft left-hand oil

seal carrier (see illustration). Without delay
- the sump bolts must be fully tightened
within 10 to 20 minutes of applying the
sealant - offer up the sump to the cylinder
block/crankcase, and insert the sump
bolts, tightening them lightly at first.

b)

Using a suitable straight edge to check
alignment across the flat-machined faces
of each, move the sump as necessary so
that its left-hand face - including any
shims found on removal - is flush with
that of the cylinder block/crankcase (see
illustration). Without disturbing the
position of the sump, and working in a
diagonal sequence from the centre
outwards, tighten the sump bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.

c)

Check again that both faces are flush
before proceeding; if necessary, unbolt
the sump again, clean the mating
surfaces, and repeat the full procedure to
ensure that the sump is correctly aligned.

d)

If it is not possible to achieve exact
alignment by moving the sump, shims are
available in thicknesses of 0.25 mm
(colour-coded yellow) or 0.50 mm (colour-
coded black) to eliminate the discrepancy
(see illustration).

14 The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, noting the
following points.
a)

Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench
settings specified.

b)

Always renew any self-locking nuts
disturbed on removal.

c)

Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).

d)

Refill the engine with oil, remembering
that you are advised to fit a new filter (see
Chapter 1).

e)

Check for signs of oil or coolant leaks
once the engine has been restarted and
warmed-up to normal operating
temperature.

14 Oil pump - removal,

inspection and refitting

4

Removal

Note: While this task is theoretically possible
when the engine is in place in the vehicle, in
practice, it requires so much preliminary
dismantling, and is so difficult to carry out due
to the restricted access, that owners are
advised to remove the engine from the vehicle
first. Note, however, that the oil pump
pressure relief valve can be removed with the
engine in situ - see paragraph 8.
1 Remove the timing belt (see Section 8).
2 Withdraw the crankshaft sprocket and the
thrustwasher behind it, noting which way
round the thrustwasher is fitted (see Sec-
tion 9).
3 Remove the sump (see Section 13).
4 Undo the screws securing the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe to the pump, then
unscrew the nut and withdraw the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe. Discard the gasket.
5 Unbolt the pump from the cylinder
block/crankcase 

(see illustration). Withdraw

and discard the gasket, and remove the
crankshaft right-hand oil seal. Thoroughly
clean and degrease all components,
particularly the mating surfaces of the pump,
the sump, and the cylinder block/crankcase.

Inspection

6 Unscrew the Torx screws, and remove the
pump cover plate; noting any identification
marks on the rotors, withdraw the rotors (see
illustration).

Zetec engine in-car repair procedures  2C•13

13.13c   Sump-to-cylinder block/crankcase

alignment shims

1  Fitting points on sump    2  Shim

13.13b  Checking alignment of sump with

cylinder block/crankcase

13.13a  Apply sealant (arrowed) as directed

when refitting sump

14.6  Withdrawing oil pump inner rotor

14.5  Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to remove

oil pump

2C

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

7 Inspect the rotors for obvious signs of wear
or damage, and renew if necessary; if either
rotor, the pump body, or its cover plate are
scored or damaged, the complete oil pump
assembly must be renewed.
8 The oil pressure relief valve can be
dismantled, if required, without disturbing the
pump. Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Remove
the front right-hand roadwheel and auxiliary
drivebelt cover (see Chapter 1) to provide
access to the valve.
9 Unscrew the threaded plug, and recover
the valve spring and plunger (see
illustrations). If the plug’s sealing O-ring is
worn or damaged, a new one must be
obtained, to be fitted on reassembly.
10 Reassembly is the reverse of the

dismantling procedure; ensure the spring and
valve are refitted the correct way round, and
tighten the threaded plug securely.

Refitting

11 The oil pump must be primed on
installation, by pouring clean engine oil into it,
and rotating its inner rotor a few turns.
12 Using grease to stick the new gasket in
place on the cylinder block/crankcase, and
rotating the pump’s inner rotor to align with
the flats on the crankshaft, refit the pump and
insert the bolts, tightening them lightly at first
(see illustration).
13 Using a suitable straight edge and feeler
gauges, check that the pump is both centred
exactly around the crankshaft, and aligned
squarely so that its (sump) mating surface is
exactly the same amount - between 0.3 and
0.8 mm - below that of the cylinder
block/crankcase on each side of the
crankshaft 

(see illustration). Being careful

not to disturb the gasket, move the pump into
the correct position, and tighten its bolts 
to the specified torque wrench setting.
14 Check that the pump is correctly located;
if necessary, unbolt it again, and repeat the
full procedure to ensure that the pump is
correctly aligned.
15 Fit a new crankshaft right-hand oil seal
(see Section 15).
16 Using grease to stick the gasket in place
on the pump, refit the pick-up/strainer pipe,
tightening its screws and nut to their specified
torque wrench settings (see illustration).

17 The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, referring to
the relevant text for details where required.

15 Crankshaft oil seals - 

renewal

4

Note: Don’t try to prise these seals out without
removing the oil pump or seal carrier - the
seals are too soft, and the amount of space
available is too small, for this to be possible
without considerable risk of damage to the seal
housing and/or the crankshaft journal. Follow
exactly the procedure given below.

Right-hand seal

1 Remove the oil pump (see Section 14).
2 Drive the oil seal out of the pump from
behind (see illustration).
3 Clean the seal housing and crankshaft,
polishing off any burrs or raised edges, which
may have caused the seal to fail in the first
place.
4 Refit the oil pump (see Section 14). Grease
the lips and periphery of the new seal, to ease
installation.
5 To fit a new seal, Ford recommend the use
of their service tool 21-093A, with the
crankshaft pulley bolt, to draw the seal into
place; an alternative can be arranged using a
socket of suitable size, with a washer to
match the crankshaft pulley bolt (see
illustration).

2C•14 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures

15.5  Socket of correct size can be used to

replace Ford service tool, drawing new

seal into place as described

15.2  Driving out crankshaft right-hand oil

seal

14.16  Use new gasket when refitting oil

pick-up pipe to pump

14.13  Oil pump must be positioned

accurately

14.12  Use new gasket when refitting oil

pump

14.9b  . . . to withdraw oil pressure relief

valve spring and plunger

14.9a  Unscrew threaded plug - seen

through right-hand wheel arch . . .

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

6 If such tools are not available, press the
seal squarely into place by hand; tap it in until
it is flush with the pump housing, using a soft-
faced mallet and a socket with an outside
diameter only slightly smaller than the seal’s
(see illustration). This approach requires
great care, to ensure that the seal is fitted
squarely, without distortion or damage.
7 Wash off any traces of oil. The remainder of
reassembly is the reverse of the removal
procedure, referring to the relevant text for
details where required. Check for signs of oil
leakage when the engine is restarted.

Left-hand seal

8 Remove the transmission (see the relevant
Part of Chapter 7).
9 Where appropriate, remove the clutch
(Chapter 6).
10 Unbolt the flywheel/driveplate (see
Section 17).
11 Remove the sump (see Section 13).
12 Unbolt the oil seal carrier (see
illustration). Remove and discard its gasket.
13 Supporting the carrier evenly on wooden
blocks, drive the oil seal out of the carrier from
behind (see illustration).
14 Clean the seal housing and crankshaft,
polishing off any burrs or raised edges, which
may have caused the seal to fail in the first
place. Clean also the mating surfaces of the
cylinder block/crankcase and carrier, using a

scraper to remove all traces of the old gasket
- be careful not to scratch or damage the
material of either - then use a suitable solvent
to degrease them.
15 Use grease to stick the new gasket in
place on the cylinder block/crankcase, then
offer up the carrier (see illustration).
16 Using a suitable straight edge and feeler
gauges, check that the carrier is both centred
exactly around the crankshaft, and aligned
squarely so that its (sump) mating surface is
exactly the same amount - between 0.3 and
0.8 mm - below that of the cylinder
block/crankcase on each side of the
crankshaft (see illustration). Being careful
not to disturb the gasket, move the carrier into
the correct position, and tighten its bolts to
the specified torque wrench setting.
17 Check that the carrier is correctly located;
if necessary, unbolt it again, and repeat the
full procedure to ensure that the carrier is
correctly aligned.
18 Ford’s recommended method of seal
fitting is to use service tool 21-141, with two
flywheel bolts to draw the seal into place. If
this is not available, make up a guide from a
thin sheet of plastic or similar, lubricate the
lips of the new seal and the crankshaft
shoulder with grease, then offer up the seal,
with the guide feeding the seal’s lips over the
crankshaft shoulder (see illustration). Press
the seal evenly into its housing by hand only,

and use a soft-faced mallet gently to tap it
into place until it is flush with the surrounding
housing.
19 Wipe off any surplus oil or grease; the
remainder of the reassembly procedure is the
reverse of dismantling, referring to the relevant
text for details where required. Check for signs
of oil leakage when the engine is restarted.

16 Engine/transmission

mountings - 
inspection and renewal

1

Inspection

1 The engine/transmission mountings seldom
require attention, but broken or deteriorated
mountings should be renewed immediately, or
the added strain placed on the driveline
components may cause damage or wear.
2 During the check, the engine/transmission
must be raised slightly, to remove its weight
from the mountings.
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Position
a jack under the sump, with a large block of
wood between the jack head and the sump,
then carefully raise the engine/transmission
just enough to take the weight off the
mountings.

Zetec engine in-car repair procedures  2C•15

15.13  . . . and ensure that carrier is

properly supported when driving out used

oil seal - note notches provided in carrier

for drift

15.12  Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to remove

crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier . . .

15.6  If seal is tapped into place as shown,

exercise great care to prevent seal from

being damaged or distorted

15.18  Using guide made from thin sheet of

plastic to slide oil seal lips over crankshaft

shoulder

15.16  Oil seal carrier must be positioned

accurately

15.15  Use new gasket when refitting left-

hand oil seal carrier

2C

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

4 Check the mountings to see if the rubber is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal components. Sometimes, the rubber
will split right down the centre.
5 Check for relative movement between each
mounting’s brackets and the engine/
transmission or body (use a large screwdriver
or lever to attempt to move the mountings). If
movement is noted, lower the engine and
check-tighten the mounting fasteners.

Renewal

6 The engine mountings can be removed if
the weight of the engine/transmission is
supported by one of the following alternative
methods.
7 Either support the weight of the assembly
from underneath using a jack and a suitable
piece of wood between the jack saddle and
the sump or transmission (to prevent
damage), or from above by attaching a hoist
to the engine. A third method is to use a
suitable support bar with end pieces which
will engage in the water channel each side of
the bonnet lid aperture. Using an adjustable
hook and chain connected to the engine, the
weight of the engine and transmission can
then be taken from the mountings.

Engine front right-hand mounting

8 This mounting consists of a two-piece
bracket bolted to the inner wing panel,
connected by the bonded-rubber mounting
itself to a (Y-shaped) bracket, bolted (via the
alternator mounting bracket) to the cylinder
block (see illustration).
9 Unscrew the three bolts securing the front
right-hand mounting bracket to the alternator
mounting bracket.
10 Unscrew the bolts securing the mounting
bracket to the inner wing panel and chassis
rail and withdraw the mounting assembly.

Engine rear right-hand mounting

11 This mounting consists of the bonded-
rubber mounting secured to the inner wing
panel by a (horizontal) bolt, accessible from
within the wheel arch, and a (vertical) stud, the
retaining nut of which is accessible from the
engine compartment. The mounting is bolted
to a bracket, which is in turn bolted to the
cylinder block.
12 Unbolt the mounting from the body by
unscrewing first the single nut (and washer)
immediately to the rear of the timing belt
cover, then the bolt in the wheel arch.
13 Unbolt the mounting from the cylinder
block bracket and withdraw the mounting
assembly.

Transmission bearer and mountings

14 On XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember as described in
Chapter 10.
15 Unscrew and remove the two nuts
securing the mountings (front and rear) to the
transmission bearer
16 Support the transmission bearer, then
undo and remove the four retaining bolts from
the floorpan, two at the front and two at the
rear, and lower the transmission bearer from
the vehicle. Note plate fitment, as applicable,
for reassembly.
17 To remove the mountings from the
transmission, unscrew the upper bolt and
lower stud (front mounting) or the three nuts
(rear mounting) and withdraw the relevant
mounting and bracket assembly from the
transmission.

All mountings

18 Refitting of all mountings is a reversal of
removal. Make sure that the original sequence
of assembly of washers and plates is
maintained.
19 Do not fully tighten any mounting bolts
until they are all located. As the mounting
bolts and nuts are tightened, check that the
mounting rubbers do not twist.

17 Flywheel/driveplate -

removal, inspection and
refitting

3

Removal

1 Remove the transmission (see the relevant
Part of Chapter 7).
2 Where appropriate, remove the clutch
(Chapter 6).
3 Use a centre-punch or paint to make

alignment marks on the flywheel/driveplate
and crankshaft, to ensure correct alignment
during refitting.
4 Prevent the flywheel/driveplate from turning
by locking the ring gear teeth, or by bolting a
strap between the flywheel/driveplate and the
cylinder block/crankcase. Slacken the bolts
evenly until all are free.
5 Remove each bolt in turn, and ensure that
new replacements are obtained for
reassembly; these bolts are subjected to
severe stresses, and so must be renewed,
regardless of their apparent condition,
whenever they are disturbed.
6 Noting the reinforcing plate (automatic
transmission models only), withdraw the
flywheel/driveplate; do not drop it - it is very
heavy.

Inspection

7 Clean the flywheel/driveplate to remove
grease and oil. Inspect the surface for cracks,
rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks.
Light scoring can be removed with emery
cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gear
teeth. Lay the flywheel/driveplate on a flat
surface, and use a straight edge to check for
warpage.
8 Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of
the flywheel/driveplate and the crankshaft. If
the crankshaft left-hand seal is leaking, renew
it (see Section 15) before refitting the
flywheel/driveplate.
9 While the flywheel/driveplate is removed,
clean carefully its inboard (right-hand) face,
particularly the recesses which serve as the
reference points for the crankshaft speed/
position sensor. Clean the sensor’s tip, and
check that the sensor is securely fastened.

Refitting

10 On refitting, ensure that the engine/
transmission adapter plate is in place (where
necessary), then fit the flywheel/driveplate to
the crankshaft so that all bolt holes align - it
will fit only one way - check this using the
marks made on removal. Do not forget the
reinforcing plate (automatic transmission
models).
11 Lock the flywheel/driveplate by the
method used on dismantling. Working in a
diagonal sequence to tighten them evenly,
and increasing to the final amount in two or
three stages, tighten the new bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
12 The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, referring to
the relevant text for details where required.

2C•16 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures

16.8  Engine front right-hand 

mounting

1595Ford Fiesta Remake