Ford Fiesta (1989-1995). Instruction - part 2

Maintenance – component location

1•7

1

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Front underside view of the 1.4 litre CVH CFi fuel injection model

1 Engine oil sump
2 Front suspension lower arm
3 Brake caliper assembly
4 Driveshaft
5 Alternator
6 Auxiliary drivebelt cover
7 Steering rack gaiter
8 Windscreen/tailgate washer pump
9 Carbon canister
10 Oxygen sensor
11 Catalytic converter (exhaust) rubber

insulator mounting

12 Catalytic converter assembly
13 Underbody heatshields
14 Gearchange mechanism shift rod
15 Gearchange mechanism stabiliser bar

Front underside view of the 1.8 litre (XR2i) Zetec SEFi fuel injection model

1 Engine oil drain plug
2 Front suspension lower arm
3 Brake caliper assembly
4 Driveshaft
5 Alternator
6 Auxiliary drivebelt cover
7 Horn
8 Windscreen/tailgate washer pump
9 Carbon canister
10 Oxygen sensor
11 Front suspension crossmember
12 Catalytic converter
13 Underbody heat shields
14 Gearchange mechanism shift rod
15 Gearchange mechanism stabiliser bar

1•8

Maintenance – component location

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Rear underside view of the 1.4 litre CVH CFi fuel injection model

1 Fuel tank
2 Fuel filler pipe
3 Fuel tank ventilation hose
4 Twist beam rear axle assembly
5 Underbody heatshields
6 Exhaust rear silencer
7 Exhaust rubber insulator mounting
8 Load apportioning valves (on vehicles with

the anti-lock braking system)

9 Handbrake cable
10 Rear towing eye
11 Spare wheel carrier hook (on the retaining

bolt)

Rear underside view of the Courier van model

1 Fuel tank
2 Fuel filler pipe
3 Fuel tank ventilation hose
4 Rear axle assembly - spring torsion bars

visible

5 Rear axle pivot brackets
6 Rear suspension dampers
7 Exhaust system rear silencer
8 Braking system light-laden valve
9 Handbrake cables
10 Rear towing eye
11 Spare wheel carrier

3

Engine oil and filter renewal 

1

1 Make sure that you have all the necessary
tools before you begin this procedure (see
illustration). You should also have plenty of
rags or newspapers handy, for mopping up
any spills.
2 To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to
protect yourself from possible skin irritants
and other harmful contaminants in used
engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves
when carrying out this work.

3 Access to the underside of the vehicle is
greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on a
hoist, driven onto ramps, or supported by axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).

Warning: Do not work under a
vehicle which is supported only
by an hydraulic or scissors-type
jack, or by bricks, blocks of
wood, etc.

4 If this is your first oil change, get under the
vehicle and familiarise yourself with the
position of the engine oil drain plug location in
the sump. The engine and exhaust
components will be warm during the actual
work, so try to anticipate any potential
problems while the engine and accessories
are cool.
5 The oil should preferably be changed when
the engine is still fully warmed-up to normal
operating temperature, just after a run (the
needle on the temperature gauge should be in
the “Normal” sector of the gauge); warm oil
and sludge will flow out more easily. Park the
vehicle on firm, level ground, apply the
handbrake firmly, then select 1st or reverse
gear (instruction transmission) or the “P” position
(automatic transmission). Open the bonnet
and remove the engine oil filler cap from the
cylinder head cover, then remove the oil level
dipstick from its tube (see “Weekly Checks”).
6 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it
securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and
Vehicle Support”). Remove the front right-
hand roadwheel to provide access to the oil

1

Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the home

mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peak performance.

This Chapter contains a master

maintenance schedule, followed by Sections
dealing specifically with each task in the
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component renewal and other helpful items
are included. Refer to the accompanying
illustrations of the engine compartment and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations
of the various components.

Servicing your vehicle in accordance with

the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable service life. This is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some
items but not others at the specified service
intervals will not produce the same results.

As you service your vehicle, you will

discover that many of the procedures can -
and should - be grouped together, because of
the particular procedure being performed, or
because of the close proximity of two
otherwise-unrelated components to one
another. For example, if the vehicle is raised
for any reason, the exhaust should be
inspected at the same time as the suspension
and steering components.

The first step of this maintenance

programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the

Sections relevant to the work to be carried
out, then make a list and gather together all
the parts and tools required. If a problem is
encountered, seek advice from a parts
specialist or a dealer service department.

2

Intensive maintenance

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this instruction, the engine will be
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the need for additional work will be minimised.
2 It is possible that there will be some times
when the engine is running poorly due to the
lack of regular maintenance. This is even more
likely if a used vehicle, which has not received
regular and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance intervals.
3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test (refer to Part A, B or C of Chapter 2) will
provide valuable information regarding the
overall performance of the main internal
components. Such a test can be used as a
basis to decide on the extent of the work to
be carried out. If, for example, a compression
test indicates serious internal engine wear,
conventional maintenance as described in this
Chapter will not greatly improve the
performance of the engine, and may prove a

waste of time and money, unless extensive
overhaul work (Chapter 2D) is carried out first.
4 The following series of operations are those
often required to improve the performance of
a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (See

“Weekly Checks”).

b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See

“Weekly Checks”).

c) Check the condition of the auxiliary

drivebelt (Section 4).

d) Check and if necessary adjust the valve

clearances on HCS engines (Section 7).

e) Renew the spark plugs and clean and

inspect the HT leads (Section 21).

f) Check the condition of the air cleaner

filter element and renew if necessary
(Section 24).

g) Check and if necessary adjust the idle

speed and mixture settings - where
applicable (Section 9).

h) Renew the fuel filter - fuel injection

models (Section 30).

i) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks (Section 5).

5 If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following operations:

Secondary operations

All the items listed under “Primary
operations”, plus the following:

a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A).
b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5B).
c) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4A, 4B,

4C and 4D).

e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 21).

Maintenance procedures

1•9

3.2  These tools are required when

changing the engine oil and filter

1

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Every 5000 miles (8000 km) or 6 months, whichever occurs first

Frequent oil changes are the
best preventive
maintenance the home
mechanic can give the

engine, because ageing oil becomes
diluted and contaminated, which leads
to premature engine wear.

filter; if the additional working clearance is
required, remove also the auxiliary drivebelt
cover.
7 Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust
components, place the drain pan under the
drain plug, and unscrew the plug (see
illustrations). If possible, try to keep the plug
pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by
hand the last couple of turns.

8 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the pan as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
Check the condition of the plug’s sealing
washer and renew it if worn or damaged.
When the oil has completely drained, wipe
clean the drain plug and its threads in the
sump and refit the plug, tightening it to the
specified torque wrench setting.
9 Reposition the drain pan under the oil filter
then, using a suitable filter removal tool,

unscrew the oil filter from the cylinder block,
oil pump or oil filter adaptor, as applicable; be
prepared for some oil spillage (see
illustration). Check the old filter to make sure
that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the
engine; if it has, carefully remove it. Withdraw
the filter through the wheel arch, taking care
to spill as little oil as possible.
10 Using a clean, lint-free rag, wipe clean the
cylinder block around the filter mounting. If
there are no specific instructions supplied
with it, fit a new oil filter as follows. Apply a
light coating of clean engine oil to the filter’s
sealing ring (see illustration). Screw the filter
into position until it seats, then tighten it
through a further half- to three-quarters of a
turn only (see illustration). Tighten the filter
by hand only - do not use any tools.
11 Remove the old oil and all tools from
under the vehicle, refit the roadwheel, and
lower the vehicle to the ground.
12 Refill the engine with oil, using the correct
grade and type of oil, as given in “Lubricants,
fluids and tyre pressures”. Pour in half the
specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few
minutes for the oil to run to the sump.
Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time,
until the level is up to the lower notch on the

dipstick. Adding approximately 0.5 to 1.0 litre
(depending on model) will raise the level to the
dipstick’s upper notch.
13 Start the engine. The oil pressure warning
light will take a few seconds to go out while
the new filter fills with oil; do not race the
engine while the light is on. Run the engine for
a few minutes, while checking for leaks
around the oil filter seal and the drain plug.
14 Switch off the engine, and wait a few
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
more. With the new oil circulated and the filter
now completely full, recheck the level on the
dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
15 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
reference to “General repair procedures” in
the Reference Sections of this instruction.

1•10

Every 5000 miles or 6 months

3.10b  Fitting the new oil filter on the Zetec engine 

3.10a  Lubricate the filter’s sealing ring with clean engine oil

before installing the filter on the engine

3.9  Removing the oil filter on the CVH

engine using a strap wrench

3.7b  Removing the engine oil drain plug

on the Zetec engine

3.7a  Engine oil drain plug location in the

sump on HCS, CVH and PTE engines

1595Ford Fiesta Remake

Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
bank, call this
number free.

As the drain plug releases
from the threads, move it
away sharply, so the stream
of oil issuing from the sump
runs into the pan, not up
your sleeve!