Rover 214-414. Service Repair Manual - part 4

10 Remove the crankshaft (see illustration).
11 Withdraw the two thrustwashers from the
No 3 main bearing upper location. Noting the
position of the grooved shells, remove the
upper main bearing shells, which must be
kept with their correct respective partners
from the main bearing ladder so that all shells
can be identified and (if necessary) refitted in
their original locations.
12 Check the condition of the cylinder head
bolts, as described in Section 9.

11 Cylinder block/crankcase -

cleaning and inspection

4

Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!

Note:  During any cleaning operations, take
care not to score the mating surfaces of the
cylinder block/crankcase, bearing ladder and
oil rail. It may be necessary to use a foam
action gasket remover.

Cleaning

1 For complete cleaning, remove the cylinder
liners, all external components and all
electrical switches/sensors.
2 Scrape all traces of gasket from the cylinder
block/crankcase, bearing ladder and oil rail,
taking care not to damage the gasket/sealing
surfaces.
3 Remove all oil gallery plugs (where fitted).
The plugs are usually very tight and may have
to be drilled out and the holes re-tapped. Use
new plugs when the engine is reassembled.
4 If any of the castings are extremely dirty, all
should be steam cleaned.
5 After the castings are returned, clean all oil
holes and oil galleries one more time. Flush all
internal passages with warm water until the
water runs clear, then dry thoroughly and
apply a light film of oil to all liner surfaces to
prevent rusting. If you have access to
compressed air, use it to speed up the drying
process and to blow out all the oil holes and
galleries.
6 If the castings are not very dirty, you can do
an adequate cleaning job with hot soapy
water and a stiff brush. Take plenty of time

and do a thorough job. Regardless of the
cleaning method used, be sure to clean all oil
holes and galleries very thoroughly and to dry
all components well. Protect the liners as
described above to prevent rusting.
7 All threaded holes must be clean to ensure
accurate torque readings during reassembly.
To clean all threads except those of the
flywheel retaining bolts, run the proper size
tap into each of the holes to remove rust,
corrosion, thread sealant or sludge and to
restore damaged threads. If possible, use
compressed air to clear the holes of debris
produced by this operation. A good
alternative is to inject aerosol-applied water-
dispersant lubricant into each hole, using the
long spout usually supplied. Always wear eye
protection when cleaning out holes in this
way. The flywheel retaining bolt threads must
be cleaned by using the procedure described
in Section 18, in Part A of this Chapter. Now is
a good time to check the condition of the
cylinder head bolts.
8 Apply suitable sealant to the new oil gallery
plugs and insert them into the holes in the
block. Tighten them securely.
9 If the engine is not going to be reassembled
right away, cover it with a large plastic bag to
keep it clean. Protect the liners as described
above to prevent rusting.

Inspection

10 Inspect all castings for cracks and
corrosion. Look for stripped threads. If there
has been any history of internal coolant
leakage, it may be worthwhile having an
engine overhaul specialist check the cylinder
block/crankcase with special equipment. If
defects are found, have them repaired, if
possible, or renew the assembly.
11 Check the bore of each cylinder liner for
scuffing and scoring.
12 Measure the diameter of each cylinder
liner bore 60 mm from the top of the bore,
both parallel to the crankshaft axis and at right
angles to it.
13 Compare the diameter with that specified.
If any measurement exceeds the service limit
then the liner must be renewed.
14 Measure the piston diameter at right
angles to the gudgeon pin axis, 16 mm up
from the bottom of the skirt. Compare the
results with those specified.
15 To measure the piston-to-bore clearance,
either measure the bore and piston skirt as
described above and subtract the skirt
diameter from the bore measurement, or
insert each piston into the original bore, select
a feeler gauge and slip it into the bore along
with the piston. The piston must be aligned
exactly in its normal attitude and the feeler
gauge must be between the piston and bore
on one of the thrust faces, 20 mm up from the
bottom of the bore.
16 If the clearance is excessive, then a new
piston will be required. If the piston binds 
at the lower end of the bore and is loose
towards the top, then the bore is tapered. If

tight spots are encountered as the
piston/feeler gauge is rotated in the bore, then
the bore is out-of-round.
17 Repeat this procedure for the remaining
pistons and cylinder liners.
18 If the cylinder liner walls are badly scuffed
or scored, or if they are excessively worn, out-
of-round or tapered, obtain new cylinder
liners. New pistons will also be required.
19 If the bores are in reasonably good
condition and not worn to the specified limits,
and if the piston-to-bore clearances can be
maintained properly, then it may only be
necessary to renew the piston rings.
20 If this is the case, the bores should be
honed to allow the new rings to bed in
correctly and provide the best possible seal.
The conventional type of hone has spring-
loaded stones and is used with a power drill.
You will also need some paraffin, or honing
oil, and rags. The hone should be moved up
and down the bore to produce a crosshatch
pattern and plenty of honing oil should be
used. Ideally the crosshatch lines should
intersect at approximately a 60° angle. Do not
take off more material than is necessary to
produce the required finish. If new pistons are
being fitted, the piston manufacturers may
specify a finish with a different angle, so their
instructions should be followed. Do not
withdraw the hone from the bore while it is still
being turned, but stop it first. After honing a
bore, wipe out all traces of the honing oil. If
equipment of this type is not available, or if
you are not sure whether you are competent
to undertake the task yourself, an engine
overhaul specialist will carry out the work at
moderate cost.

12 Cylinder liners - 

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Invert the cylinder block/crankcase and
support it on blocks of wood, then use a hard
wood drift to tap out each liner from the
crankshaft side. When all the liners are
released, tip the cylinder block/crankcase on
its side and remove each liner from the
cylinder head side. Discard the two sealing
rings from the base of each. If the liners are to
be re-used, mark each one by sticking
masking tape on its right-hand (timing belt)
face and writing the cylinder number on the
tape.

Refitting

2 To install the liners, thoroughly clean the
liner mating surfaces in the cylinder
block/crankcase and use fine abrasive paper
to polish away any burrs or sharp edges
which might damage the liner sealing rings.
Clean the liners and wipe dry, then fit new
sealing rings to the two grooves at the base of
each liner and apply a thin film of oil to the

Engine removal and general overhaul procedures  2B•9

10.10  Removing the crankshaft

2B

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

rings and to the liner surface on each side of
the rings (see illustration).
3 If the original liners are being refitted, use
the marks made on removal to ensure that
each is refitted the same way round into its
original bore. Insert each liner into the cylinder
block/crankcase, taking great care not to
displace or damage the sealing rings, and
press it home as far as possible by hand.
Using a hammer and a block of wood, tap
each liner lightly but fully onto its locating
shoulder (see illustration). Wipe clean, then
lightly oil all exposed liner surfaces to prevent
rusting.

13 Piston/connecting rod

assembly - inspection

3

1 Examine all pistons for ovality, scoring and
scratches, and for wear of the piston ring
grooves. Use a micrometer to measure the
pistons (see illustration).
2 If the pistons or connecting rods are to be
renewed, it is necessary to have this work
carried out by a Rover dealer or suitable
engine overhaul specialist who will have the
necessary tooling to remove and install the
gudgeon pins.
3 If new rings are to be fitted to the original
pistons, expand the old rings over the top of
the pistons. The use of two or three old feeler
gauge blades will be helpful in preventing the

rings dropping into empty grooves (see
illustration).
4 When the original piston rings have been
removed, ensure that the ring grooves in the
piston are free of carbon by cleaning them
with a ring cleaning tool or an old ring. Break a
ring in half to do this.
5 When measuring new rings, lay out each
piston set with a piston/connecting rod
assembly and keep them together as a
matched set from now on.
6 Check the ring-to-groove clearance by
inserting each ring from the outside together
with a feeler gauge blade between the ring’s
top surface and the piston land. Check the
ring end gaps by inserting each ring into the
cylinder bore and pushing it in with the piston
crown to ensure that it is square in the bore,
20 mm from the top. Use feeler gauges to
measure the gap (see illustrations).
7 If the end gap of a new ring is found to be
too large or too small, double-check to ensure
that you have the correct rings. If the end gap
is still too small, it must be opened up by
careful filing of the ring ends using a fine file. If
it is too large, this is not as serious unless the
specified service limit is exceeded, in which
case very careful checking is required of the
dimensions of all components as well as of
the new parts.
8 Note that each piston should be considered
as being matched to its respective liner and
they must not be interchanged.

14 Crankshaft - inspection

3

Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air! Be
sure to clean oil holes with a
pipe cleaner or similar probe.

Checking endfloat

1 If crankshaft endfloat is to be checked, this
must be done when the crankshaft is still
installed in the cylinder block/crankcase but is
free to move.
2 Check endfloat by using a dial gauge in
contact with the end of the crankshaft. Push
the crankshaft fully one way and then zero the
gauge. Push the crankshaft fully the other way
and check the endfloat. The result can be
compared with the specified amount and will
give an indication as to whether new
thrustwashers are required.
3 If a dial gauge is not available, feeler
gauges can be used. First push the crankshaft
fully towards the flywheel end of the engine,
then use feeler gauges to measure the gap
between the web of No 3 crankpin and the
thrustwasher.

Inspection

4 Clean the crankshaft and dry it with
compressed air, if available.
5 Check the main and crankpin (big-end)

2B•10 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures

13.5b  Measuring piston ring end gap

13.5a  Measuring piston ring-to-groove

clearance

13.3  Removing piston rings with feeler

blades

13.1  Measuring piston diameter

12.3  Tap liner onto locating shoulder -

ensuring O-rings are not displaced

12.2  Renew liner O-rings

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring,
pitting and cracking.
6 Rub a penny across each journal several
times. If a journal picks up copper from the
penny, it is too rough (see illustration).
7 Remove any burrs from the crankshaft oil
holes with a stone, file or scraper.
8 Using a micrometer, measure the diameter
of the main bearing and crankpin (big-end)
journals and compare the results with those
specified (see illustration). Check carefully
that each journal’s diameter is within the
tolerances of the size grade corresponding to
the code number on the crankshaft right-hand
web (main bearing) or indicated by the code
letter on the left-hand web (crankpin/big-end
bearing). If any diameter measured is
incorrect for the grade indicated, re-check the
measurement carefully. If the journal is fit for
further service, the correct grade code should
be substituted when selecting new bearing
shells.
9 By measuring the diameter at a number of
points around each journal’s circumference,

you will be able to determine whether or not
the journal is out-of-round. Take the
measurement at each end of the journal (near
the webs) to determine if the journal is
tapered.
10 If the crankshaft journals are damaged,
tapered, out-of-round or worn beyond the
limits specified, the crankshaft must be
renewed unless an engine overhaul 
specialist can be found who will regrind it and
supply the necessary undersize bearing
shells.
11 Check the oil seal journals at each end of
the crankshaft for wear and damage. If either
seal has worn an excessive groove in its
journal, consult an engine overhaul specialist
who will be able to advise whether a repair is
possible or whether a new crankshaft is
necessary.

15 Main and big-end bearings -

inspection

3

1 Even though the main and big-end bearings
should be renewed during the engine
overhaul, the old bearings should be retained
for close examination, as they may reveal
valuable information about the condition of
the engine. The bearing shells are graded by
thickness, the grade of each shell 
being indicated by the colour code marked on
it.
2 Bearing failure occurs because of lack of
lubrication, the presence of dirt or other
foreign particles, overloading the engine and
corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing
failure, it must be corrected before the engine
is reassembled to prevent it from happening
again (see illustration).
3 When examining the bearing shells, remove
them from the cylinder block/crankcase, the
main bearing ladder, the connecting rods and
the connecting rod big-end bearing caps,
then lay them out on a clean surface in the
same general position as their location in the
engine. This will enable you to match any
bearing problems with the corresponding
crankshaft journal. Do not touch any shell’s

bearing surface with your fingers while
checking it, or the delicate surface may be
scratched.
4 Dirt and other foreign particles get into the
engine in a variety of ways. It may be left in
the engine during assembly, or it may pass
through filters or the crankcase ventilation
system. It may get into the oil and from there
into the bearings. Metal chips from machining
operations and normal engine wear are often
present. Abrasives are sometimes left in
engine components after reconditioning,
especially when parts are not thoroughly
cleaned by using the proper cleaning
methods. Whatever the source, these foreign
objects often end up embedded in the soft
bearing material and are easily recognized.
Large particles will not embed in the bearing
but will score or gouge the bearing and
journal. The best prevention for this cause of
bearing failure is to clean all parts thoroughly
and keep everything spotlessly clean 
during engine assembly. Frequent and regular 
engine oil and filter changes are also
recommended.
5 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication
breakdown) has a number of interrelated
causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil),
overloading (which squeezes the oil from 
the bearing face) and oil leakage (from
excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump
or high engine speeds) all contribute to
lubrication breakdown. Blocked oil passages,
which usually are the result of misaligned oil
holes in a bearing shell, will also oil starve a
bearing and destroy it. When lack of
lubrication is the cause of bearing failure, the
bearing material is wiped or extruded from the
steel backing of the bearing. Temperatures
may increase to the point where the steel
backing turns blue from overheating.
6 Driving habits can have a definite effect on
bearing life. Full throttle, low speed operation
(labouring the engine) puts very high loads on
bearings, which tends to squeeze out the oil
film. These loads cause the bearings to flex,
which produces fine cracks in the bearing
face (fatigue failure). Eventually, the bearing
material will loosen in pieces and tear away
from the steel backing. Short-distance driving
leads to corrosion of bearings because
insufficient engine heat is produced to drive
off the condensed water and corrosive gases.
These products collect in the engine oil,
forming acid and sludge. As the oil is carried
to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and
corrodes the bearing material.
7 Incorrect bearing installation during engine
assembly will lead to bearing failure as well.
Tight fitting bearings leave insufficient bearing
running clearance and will result in oil
starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped
behind a bearing shell result in high spots on
the bearing which lead to failure. Do not touch
any shell’s bearing surface with your fingers
during reassembly as there is a risk of
scratching the delicate surface or of
depositing particles of dirt on it.

Engine removal and general overhaul procedures  2B•11

15.2  Typical bearing shell failures

14.8  Measuring crankshaft journal

diameter

14.6  Using a penny to check crankshaft

journal condition

2B

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

16 Engine overhaul - 

reassembly sequence

1 Before reassembly begins, ensure that all
new parts have been obtained and that all
necessary tools are available. Read through
the entire procedure to familiarise yourself
with the work involved and to ensure that all
items necessary for reassembly of the engine
are at hand. In addition to all normal tools and
materials, it will be necessary to obtain the
Rover sealant kit LVV 10002. Carefully read
the instructions supplied with the sealant kit
and take care not to allow the sealant to
contact the fingers, as it will bond skin.
2 In order to save time and avoid problems,
engine reassembly can be carried out in the
following order:
a)

Crankshaft.

b)

Piston/connecting rod assemblies.

c)

Oil pump.

d)

Sump.

e)

Flywheel.

f)

Cylinder head.

g)

Timing belt inner cover, tensioner and
sprockets, and timing belt.

h)

Engine external components.

3 At this stage, all engine components should
be absolutely clean and dry, with all faults

repaired, and should be laid out (or in
individual containers) on a completely clean
work surface.

17 Piston rings - refitting

3

1 Refer to Section 13 for inspection details.
2 Once all rings have been checked, they can
be installed. Ensure that each ring is refitted
only to its matched piston and bore.
3 Install the new rings by fitting them over the
top of the piston, starting with the oil control
ring spring. Note that all rings must be fitted
with the word TOP uppermost (see
illustration).
4 With all the rings in position, space the ring
gaps as shown (see illustration), noting that
the FRONT marking shown is usually in fact
an arrow mark on the piston crown and
indicates the timing belt end of the engine.

18 Crankshaft - refitting and

main bearing running
clearance check

4

Selection of bearing shells

1 The main bearing running clearance is
controlled in production by selecting one of
three grades of bearing shell. The grades are
indicated by a colour-coding marked on the
edge of each shell which governs the shell’s
thickness, as follows:
a)

Green - Thin.

b)

Blue - Intermediate.

c)

Red - Thick.

2 If shells of differing grades are to be fitted
to the same journal, the thicker shell must
always be fitted to the main bearing ladder
location. Bear this carefully in mind when
ordering replacement shells for Nos 2, 3 and 4
bearings.
3 If the bearing shells are to be renewed, first
check and record the main bearing code
letters stamped on the right-hand front face of
the main bearing ladder (see illustration). The
letters are read with the ladder inverted, No 1
bearing’s code letter then being at the top and
the remainder following in order from the
engine’s timing belt end.
4 Secondly, check and record the crankshaft
journal code numbers stamped on the
crankshaft’s right-hand web, No 1 journal’s
code number being the first. If the original
crankshaft is to be re-used, the size grade can
be checked by direct measurement, as
described in Section 14.
5 Note that if the crankshaft is found to be
excessively worn, then it must be renewed
and the code numbers of the new component
must be used instead to select a new set of
bearing shells.
6 Matching the codes noted to the following
table, select a new set of bearing shells.

Ladder code Crankshaft 
letter

code number

Shells

A

1

Blue, Blue

A

2

Red, Blue

A

3

Red, Red

B

1

Blue, Green

B

2

Blue, Blue

B

3

Red, Blue

C

1

Green, Green

C

2

Blue, Green

C

3

Blue, Blue

2B•12 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures

18.3  Crankshaft main bearing size code locations

17.4  Piston ring end gap locations

A

Top compression ring

B

Second compression ring

C

Oil control ring

D

Oil control ring spring

17.3  Piston ring fitting details and top

surface markings

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Main bearing running clearance
check

7 Clean the backs of the bearing shells 
and the bearing locations in both the 
cylinder block/crankcase and the main
bearing ladder.
8 Press the bearing shells into their locations,
ensuring that the tab on each shell engages in
the notch in the cylinder block/crankcase or
main bearing ladder location. Take care not to
touch any shell bearing surface with your
fingers.
9 Press the bearing shells with the oil grooves
into the upper locations (in the cylinder
block/crankcase). Note the following points
(see illustration):
a)

On all engines, grooved bearing shells are
fitted to Nos 2, 3 and 4 upper bearing
locations. Note the central locating tabs
of the grooved shells.

b)

On early engines, grooved bearing shells
were fitted only to Nos 2 and 4 upper
bearing locations at the factory. On
reassembly of one of these units, a
grooved shell must be fitted at No 3
upper bearing location as well, instead of
the plain item originally used. Note,
however, that this will require a grooved
shell with an offset locating tab instead of
the central tab that is used on all other
grooved shells. See your Rover dealer for
details.

c)

If bearing shells of differing grades are to
be fitted to the same journal, the thicker
shell must always be fitted to the main
bearing ladder location (see paragraph 1).

d)

On all engines, if the original main bearing
shells are being re-used, these must be
refitted to their original locations in the
cylinder block/crankcase and main
bearing ladder.

10 The main bearing running clearance
should be checked if there is any doubt about
the amount of crankshaft wear that has taken
place, if the crankshaft has been reground
and is to be refitted with non-Rover
undersized bearing shells, or if non-genuine

bearing shells are to be fitted. If the original
crankshaft or a Rover replacement part is to
be installed, the shell selection procedure
given above will produce the correct
clearances and a further check will not be
necessary. If the clearance is to be checked, it
can be done in either of two ways.
11 The first method (which will be difficult to
achieve without a range of internal
micrometers or internal/external expanding
calipers) is to refit the main bearing ladder to
the cylinder block/crankcase, with bearing
shells in place. With the ladder retaining bolts
tightened to the specified torque, refit the oil
rail and the cylinder head, then measure the
internal diameter of each assembled pair of
bearing shells. If the diameter of each
corresponding crankshaft journal is measured
and then subtracted from the bearing internal
diameter, the result will be the main bearing
running clearance.
12 The second (and more accurate) method
is to use product known as Plastigauge. This
consists of a fine thread of perfectly round
plastic which is compressed between the
bearing shell and the journal. When the shell is
removed, the plastic is deformed and can be
measured with a special card gauge supplied
with the kit. The running clearance is
determined from this gauge. Plastigauge is
sometimes difficult to obtain but enquiries at
one of the larger specialist quality motor
factors should produce the name of a stockist
in your area. The procedure for using
Plastigauge is as follows.
13 With the main bearing upper shells in
place, carefully lay the crankshaft in position.
Do not use any lubricant. The crankshaft
journals and bearing shells must be perfectly
clean and dry.
14 Cut several lengths of the appropriate size
Plastigauge (they should be slightly shorter
than the width of the main bearings) and place
one length on each crankshaft journal axis
(see illustration).
15 With the main bearing lower shells in
position, refit the main bearing ladder (see
below) and the oil rail, tightening the fasteners

to the specified torque wrench settings. Take
care not to disturb the Plastigauge.
16 Refit the cylinder head (using the original
gasket, to save over-compressing the new
one). Tighten the bolts to the specified torque
in the approved sequence. Do not rotate the
crankshaft at any time during this operation.
17 Remove the cylinder head, the oil rail and
the main bearing ladder. Do not disturb the
Plastigauge or rotate the crankshaft.
18 Compare the width of the crushed
Plastigauge on each journal to the scale
printed on the Plastigauge envelope to obtain
the main bearing running clearance (see
illustration).
19 If the clearance is not as specified, the
bearing shells may be the wrong grade (or
excessively worn if the original shells are being
re-used). Before deciding that different grade
shells are needed, make sure that no dirt or oil
was trapped between the bearing shells and
the ladder or cylinder block/crankcase when
the clearance was measured. If the
Plastigauge was wider at one end than at the
other, the journal may be tapered.
20 Carefully scrape away all traces of the
Plastigauge material from the crankshaft and
bearing shells using a fingernail or other
object which is unlikely to score the shells.

Final crankshaft refitting

21 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the
cylinder block once more.
22 Using a little grease, stick the
thrustwashers to each side of the No 3 main
bearing upper location. Ensure that the oilway
grooves on each thrustwasher face outwards.
23 Place the bearing shells in their locations,
as described in paragraphs 7 to 9. If new
shells are being fitted, ensure that all traces of
the protective grease are cleaned off using
paraffin. Wipe dry the shells and connecting
rods with a lint-free cloth. Liberally lubricate
each bearing shell in the cylinder
block/crankcase, then lower the crankshaft
into position so that Nos 2 and 3 cylinder
crankpins are at TDC.
24 Refit the piston/connecting rod

Engine removal and general overhaul procedures  2B•13

18.18  Using scale on Plastigauge envelope

to check (at widest point) width of crushed

Plastigauge

18.14  Lay length of Plastigauge on journal

to be measured, parallel to crankshaft

centre-line

18.9  Ensure grooved bearing shells

(arrowed) are installed exactly as

described in text - early engine shown

2B

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

assemblies  (see illustrations). Leave No 1
and 4 cylinders at the TDC position
25 Thoroughly degrease the mating surfaces
of the cylinder block/crankcase and the main
bearing ladder. Apply the special Rover
sealant to the mating  surface of the cylinder
block/crankcase as shown (see illustration).
Carefully follow the instructions supplied with
the sealant kit. If the Rover sealant is being
used, assembly must be completed as soon
as possible after the sealant has been applied
(maximum of 20 minutes). If another sealant is
being used, follow the manufacturer’s
instructions.

26 Lubricate the bearing shells, then refit the
main bearing ladder, ensuring that the shells
are not displaced and that the locating dowels
engage correctly. Working progressively, by a
turn at a time and in the sequence shown (see
illustration), tighten the ladder bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting. The
crankshaft cannot now be rotated.
27 Thoroughly degrease the mating surfaces
of the oil rail and the main bearing ladder.
Apply the special Rover sealant to the oil rail
mating  surface as shown (see illustration).
Carefully follow the instructions supplied with
the sealant kit.

28 Refit the oil rail, tightening the nuts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
29 Using a new sealing ring, refit the oil
pump pick-up/strainer pipe to the oil rail, then
refit the sump. Tighten all nuts and bolts to
the specified torque wrench settings.
30 Fit a new crankshaft left-hand oil seal,
then refit the flywheel (see illustrations).
31 Refit the oil pump and install a new
crankshaft right-hand oil seal

(see

illustrations).
32 Refit the cylinder head. Rotate the
crankshaft to the 90° BTDC position so that
the crankshaft sprocket timing marks align.

2B•14 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures

18.31a  Use grease to stick new gasket in

place when refitting oil pump

18.30c  Use fabricated tool to lock flywheel

while slackening or tightening flywheel

bolts

18.30b  Always use new bolts when

refitting flywheel

18.30a  Fitting a new crankshaft left-hand

oil seal

18.27  Apply thin bead of sealant to oil rail

mating surface as shown by heavy black

lines, then spread to an even film

18.26  Crankshaft main bearing ladder bolt

tightening sequence

18.25  Apply thin bead of sealant to

cylinder block/crankcase mating surface

along paths shown by heavy black lines,

then spread to an even film

18.24b  . . . care is required to hold

crankshaft steady while connecting rod

big-end cap bolts are tightened

18.24a  If piston/connecting rod

assemblies are refitted before main

bearing ladder . . .

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

33 Refit the dipstick tube to the cylinder
block/crankcase, tightening the bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
34 Refit the timing belt inner cover, the
sprocket(s) and tensioner, and the belt itself.
35 Using a torque wrench, check that the
amount of force required to rotate the
crankshaft does not exceed 31 Nm. If the
effort required is greater than this, the engine
must be dismantled again to trace and rectify
the cause. This value takes into account the
increased friction of a new engine and is
much higher than the actual pressure required
to rotate a run-in engine, so do not make
allowances for tight components.

19 Piston/connecting rod

assembly - refitting and big-end
bearing running clearance check

4

Selection of bearing shells

1 The big-end bearing running clearance is
controlled in production by selecting one of
three grades of bearing shell. The grades are
indicated by a colour-coding marked on the
edge of each shell which governs the shell’s
thickness, as follows:
a)

Yellow - Thin.

b)

Blue - Intermediate.

c)

Red - Thick.

2 If shells of differing grades are to be fitted
to the same journal, the thicker shell must
always be fitted to the big-end bearing cap
location.
3 If the bearing shells are to be renewed, first
check and record the codes stamped on the
front face of each big-end bearing cap and
connecting rod. The number stamped on the
big-end bearing cap is the bearing size code,
the number stamped on the connecting rod 
is the piston/rod assembly’s cylinder number
and the letter stamped on the connecting rod
is the weight code (see illustration).
4 Secondly, check and record the
crankpin/big-end journal code letters
stamped on the crankshaft’s left-hand web
(see illustration), No 1 journal’s code letter

being the first. If the original crankshaft is to
be re-used, the code letter can be checked by
direct measurement.
5 If the crankshaft is found to be excessively
worn, then it must be renewed and the code
letters of the new component must be used
instead to select a new set of bearing shells.
6 Matching the codes noted to the following
table, select a new set of bearing shells:
Cap code

Crankshaft

number

code letter

Shells

5

A

Blue, Blue

5

B

Red, Blue

5

C

Red, Red

6

A

Blue, Yellow

6

B

Blue, Blue

6

C

Red, Blue

7

A

Yellow, Yellow

7

B

Blue, Yellow

7

C

Blue, Blue

Big-end bearing running
clearance check

7 The big-end bearing running clearance
should be checked if there is any doubt about
the amount of crankshaft wear that has taken
place, if the crankshaft has been reground
and is to be refitted with non-Rover
undersized bearing shells, or if non-genuine
bearing shells are to be fitted. If the original
crankshaft or a Rover replacement part is to
be installed, the shell selection procedure
given above will produce the correct
clearances and a further check will not be
necessary. If the clearance is to be checked, it
can be done in either of two ways.
8 The first method is to refit the big-end
bearing cap to the connecting rod, with
bearing shells in place. With the cap retaining
bolts tightened to the specified torque, use an
internal micrometer or vernier caliper to
measure the internal diameter of each
assembled pair of bearing shells. If the
diameter of each corresponding crankshaft
journal is measured and then subtracted from
the bearing internal diameter, the result will be
the big-end bearing running clearance.
9 The second method is to use Plastigauge.
Place a strand of Plastigauge on each

(cleaned) crankpin journal and refit the (clean)
piston/connecting rod assemblies, shells and
big-end bearing caps, tightening the bolts to
the specified torque wrench settings. Take
care not to disturb the Plastigauge. Dismantle
the assemblies without rotating the crankshaft
and use the scale printed on the Plastigauge
envelope to obtain the big-end bearing
running clearance. On completion of the
measurement, carefully scrape off all traces of
Plastigauge from the journal and shells using
a fingernail or other object which will not
score the components.

Final piston/connecting rod
assembly refitting

10 Note that the following procedure
assumes that the cylinder liners have been
refitted to the cylinder block/crankcase and
that the crankshaft and main bearing ladder
are in place. It is of course possible to refit the
piston/connecting rod assemblies to the
cylinder bores, to refit the crankshaft and to
reassemble the piston/connecting rods on the
crankshaft before refitting the main bearing
ladder (see Section 18).
11 Clean the backs of the bearing shells and
the bearing recesses in both the connecting
rod and the big-end bearing cap. If new shells
are being fitted, ensure that all traces of the
protective grease are cleaned off using
paraffin. Wipe dry the shells and connecting
rods with a lint-free cloth.
12 Press the bearing shells into their
locations, ensuring that the tab on each shell
engages in the notch in the connecting rod or
big-end bearing cap and taking care not to
touch any shell’s bearing surface with your
fingers. Note the following points:
a)

If bearing shells of differing grades are to
be fitted to the same journal, the 
thicker shell must always be fitted to the
big-end bearing cap location (see
paragraph 1).

b)

On all engines, if the original big-end
bearing shells are being re-used, these
must be refitted to their original locations
in the connecting rod and big-end bearing
cap.

Engine removal and general overhaul procedures  2B•15

19.4  Crankpin (big-end) journal size code

location

19.3  Big-end bearing size code number (A

- on cap) piston/connecting rod assembly

cylinder number (B) and connecting rod

weight code letter (C)

18.31b  Fitting a new crankshaft right-hand

oil seal

2B

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

13 Lubricate the cylinder bores, the pistons
and piston rings, then lay out each
piston/connecting rod assembly in its
respective position.
14 Starting with assembly No 1, make sure
that the piston rings are still correctly spaced,
then clamp them in position with a piston ring
compressor.
15 Insert the piston/connecting rod assembly
into the top of liner No 1, ensuring that the
arrow (or FRONT marking) on the piston
crown faces the timing belt end of the engine.
Note that the stamped marks on the
connecting rod and big-end bearing cap
should face the front (alternator bracket side)
of the engine. Using a block of wood or
hammer handle against the piston crown, tap
the assembly into the liner until the piston
crown is flush with the top of the liner (see
illustrations).
16 Ensure that the bearing shell is still
correctly installed. Taking care not to mark the
liner bores, liberally lubricate the crankpin and

both bearing shells, then pull the
piston/connecting rod assembly down the
bore and onto the crankpin. Noting that the
faces with the stamped marks must match
(which means that the bearing shell locating
tabs abut each other), refit the big-end
bearing cap, tightening the bolts finger-tight
at first.
17 Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts
evenly to the (first stage) torque wrench
setting specified, then use an angular torque
gauge to tighten the bolts evenly through the
(second stage) angle specified (see
illustrations).
18 Repeat the procedure for the remaining
three piston/connecting rod assemblies, but
do not attempt to rotate the crankshaft.
19 Thoroughly degrease the mating surfaces
of the oil rail and the main bearing ladder.
Apply the special Rover sealant to the oil rail
mating surface (see illustration 18.27).
Carefully follow the instructions supplied with
the sealant kit.

20 Refit the oil rail, tightening the nuts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
21 Refit the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe
and sump.
22 Refit the cylinder head. Rotate the
crankshaft to the 90° BTDC position so that
the crankshaft sprocket timing marks align.
23 Refit the dipstick tube to the cylinder
block/crankcase, tightening the bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
24 Refit the hydraulic tappets and
camshaft(s).
25 Refit the timing belt inner cover,
sprocket(s) and tensioner, and the belt itself.
26 Using a torque wrench, check that the
amount of force required to rotate the crankshaft
does not exceed 31 Nm. If the effort required is
greater than this, the engine must be dismantled
again to trace and rectify the cause. This value
takes into account the increased friction of a
new engine and is much higher than the actual
pressure required to rotate a run-in engine, so
do not make allowances for tight components.

2B•16 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures

19.17b  . . . then use angular torque gauge to tighten bolts through

angle specified (second stage)

19.17a  Tighten connecting rod big-end bearing cap bolts to

specified torque wrench setting (first stage) . . .

18.15b  Using piston ring compressor to clamp piston rings

19.15a  Arrow or FRONT marking (arrowed) on piston crown must

point to timing belt end of engine

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

20 Engine - initial start-up 

after overhaul

2

1 With the engine refitted in the vehicle,
double-check the engine oil and coolant
levels. Make a final check that everything has
been reconnected and that there are no tools
or rags left in the engine compartment.
2 With the spark plugs removed and the
ignition system disabled by earthing the ignition
HT coil distributor spark plug (HT) lead with a
jumper lead, turn the engine over on the starter
until the oil pressure warning lamp goes out.

3 Refit the spark plugs and connect all the
spark plug (HT) leads.
4 Start the engine, noting that this may take a
little longer than usual due to the fuel system
components being empty.
5 While the engine is idling, check for fuel,
coolant and oil leaks. Do not be alarmed if
there are some odd smells and smoke from
parts getting hot and burning off oil deposits.
If the hydraulic tappets have been disturbed,
some valve gear noise may be heard at first;
this should disappear as the oil circulates fully
around the engine and normal pressure is
restored in the tappets.
6 Keep the engine idling until hot coolant is

felt circulating through the top hose, check
the ignition timing and idle speed and mixture
(as appropriate), then switch it off.
7 After a few minutes, recheck the oil and
coolant levels and top up as necessary.
8 If they were tightened as described, there is
no need to re-tighten the cylinder head bolts
once the engine has first run after reassembly.
9 If new pistons, rings or crankshaft bearings
have been fitted, the engine must be run-in for
the first 500 miles (800 km). Do not operate
the engine at full throttle or allow it to labour in
any gear during this period. It is
recommended that the oil and filter be
changed at the end of this period.

Engine removal and general overhaul procedures  2B•17

2B

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

3

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

Air conditioning compressor drivebelt - inspection, adjustment 

and renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Air conditioning refrigerant - level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Air conditioning system components - removal and refitting  . . . . . . 15
Coolant pump - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

Cooling system - draining, flushing and filling  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

Cooling system - general inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

Cooling system electrical switches - testing, removal and refitting  .

9

Cooling system hoses - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

Electric cooling fan - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

General information and precautions  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

Heater components - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Heater controls - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Heater ducts and vents - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Radiator and expansion tank - removal, inspection and refitting  . . .

5

Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

3•1

Contents

Specifications

System

Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Pressurised, pump-assisted thermo-syphon with front mounted
radiator and thermostatically-controlled electric cooling fan

Thermostat

Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Wax

Start to open temperature  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

76 to 80°C

Fully open temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

82 or 88°C (actual value stamped in unit end)

Full lift height  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9.0 mm

Expansion tank

Cap pressure  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.9 to 1.0 bar

Cooling fan

Operating temperature  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

88 to 92°C

Torque wrench settings

Nm

lbf ft

Cooling system

Fan motor nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

4

Temperature gauge sender unit  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

15

11

Thermostat housing cover bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

7

Thermostat housing/dipstick tube-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolt . . .

9

7

Coolant rail-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

7

Coolant pump-to-timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover bolt  . . . . . .

9

7

Coolant pump-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Heating system

Heater lower mounting nut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

21

15

Heater blower motor mounting bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

7

Air conditioning system

Compressor mounting bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45

33

Condenser unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

17

13

Evaporator inlet union (from receiver drier)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

17

13

Evaporator outlet union  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

33

24

Receiver drier union  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

17

13

Trinary switch  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12

9

Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience

Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience

Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanic

Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional

Degrees of difficulty

5

4

3

2

1

1

General information and
precautions

General information

The cooling system is of the pressurised,

pump-assisted thermo-syphon type. It
consists of the front-mounted radiator, a
translucent expansion tank mounted on the
right-hand inner wing, a thermostatically-
controlled electric cooling fan mounted on the
rear of the radiator, a thermostat and a
centrifugal coolant pump, as well as the
connecting hoses (see illustration). The
coolant pump is driven by the engine timing
belt.

The system is of the by-pass type, allowing

coolant to circulate around the engine while
the thermostat is closed. With the engine
cold, the thermostat closes off the coolant
feed from the bottom radiator hose. Coolant is
then drawn into the engine via the heater
matrix, inlet manifold and from the top of the
cylinder block. This allows some heat transfer,
by convection, to the radiator through the top

hose whilst retaining the majority of heat
within the cylinder block.

The siting of the thermostat in the intake

rather than the outlet side of the system
ensures that the engine warms up quickly by
circulating a small amount of coolant around a
shorter tract. This also prevents temperature
build-up in the cylinder head prior to the
thermostat opening.

When the coolant reaches a predetermined

temperature, the thermostat opens and the
coolant is allowed to flow freely through the
top hose to the radiator. As the coolant
circulates through the radiator, it is cooled by
the inrush of air when the vehicle is in forward
motion. Airflow is supplemented by the action
of the electric cooling fan when necessary.
Upon reaching the bottom of the radiator, the
coolant is now cooled and the cycle is
repeated.

With the engine at normal operating

temperature, the coolant expands and some
of it is displaced into the expansion tank. This
coolant collects in the tank and is returned to
the radiator when the system cools.

The electric cooling fan mounted behind

the radiator is controlled by a thermostatic

switch located in the radiator side tank. 
At a predetermined coolant temperature 
the switch contacts close, thus actuating the
fan.

Precautions

Cooling system

Do not attempt to remove the expansion

tank filler cap or to disturb any part of the
cooling system whilst it or the engine is hot,
as there is a very great risk of scalding. If the
expansion tank filler cap must be removed
before the engine and radiator have fully
cooled down (even though this is not
recommended) the pressure in the cooling
system must first be released. Cover the cap
with a thick layer of cloth, to avoid scalding,
and slowly unscrew the filler cap until a
hissing sound can be heard. When the hissing
has stopped, showing that pressure is
released, slowly unscrew the filler cap until 
it can be removed. If more hissing sounds 
are heard, wait until they have stopped 
before unscrewing the cap completely. At 
all times keep well away from the filler
opening.

Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact

with your skin or painted surfaces of the
vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with
plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying
around, it is fatal if ingested.

If the engine is hot, the electric cooling fan

may start rotating even if the engine is not
running, so be careful to keep hands, hair and
loose clothing well clear when working in the
engine compartment.

Air conditioning system

On models equipped with an air

conditioning system, it is necessary to
observe special precautions whenever dealing
with any part of the system, its associated
components and any items which necessitate
disconnection of the system. If for any reason
the system must be disconnected, entrust this
task to your Rover dealer or a refrigeration
engineer.

Refrigerant must not be allowed to come in

contact with a naked flame, otherwise a
poisonous gas will be created. Do not allow
the fluid to come in contact with the skin or
eyes.

2

Cooling system - draining,
flushing and refilling

Refer to Chapter 1.

3

Cooling system - 
general inspection

Refer to “Weekly Checks” and Chapter 1.

3•2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

1.0  Cooling system components

1 Radiator
2 Cooling fan and cowling
3 Radiator mounting

rubbers

4 Bottom hose
5 Top hose
6 Coolant pipe - bottom

hose to thermostat
housing

7 Thermostat housing 

cover

8 Gasket

9 Thermostat

10 Thermostat housing
11 O-ring
12 Coolant pump
13 Expansion tank
14 Hose - heater matrix and

manifold return

15 Hose - heater matrix and

manifold feed

16 Heater temperature

control valve

17 Coolant filler stem

18 Cooling system bleed

screw

19 Engine overheat switch -

where fitted

20 Coolant pipe - expansion

tank to bottom hose

21 Hose - expansion tank

return

22 Sealing ring
23 Cooling fan thermostatic

switch

24 Locking ring

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

4

Cooling system hoses -
renewal

2

1 If inspection of the cooling system reveals a
faulty hose, then it must be renewed as
follows.
2 First drain the cooling system. If the coolant
is not due for renewal, it may be re-used if
collected in a clean container.
3 To disconnect any hose, use a screwdriver
to slacken the clips then move them along the
hose clear of the outlet. Carefully work the
hose off its outlets. Do not attempt to
disconnect any part of the system when still
hot.
4 Note that the radiator hose outlets are
fragile. Do not use excessive force when
attempting to remove the hoses. If a hose
proves stubborn, try to release it by rotating it
on its outlets before attempting to work it off.
If all else fails, cut the hose with a sharp knife
then slit it so that it can be peeled off in two
pieces. While expensive, this is preferable to
buying a new radiator.
5 When refitting a hose, first slide the clips
onto the hose then work the hose onto its
outlets. If the hose is stiff, use soap as a
lubricant or soften it by first soaking it in
boiling water whilst taking care to prevent
scalding.
6 Work each hose end fully onto its outlet,
check that the hose is settled correctly and is
properly routed, then slide each clip along the
hose until it is behind the outlet flared end
before tightening it securely.
7 Refill the system with coolant.
8 Check carefully for leaks as soon as
possible after disturbing any part of the
cooling system.

5

Radiator and expansion tank
- removal, inspection and
refitting

2

Removal

Radiator

1 Drain the cooling system.
2 On models equipped with air conditioning,
remove the condenser fan, then undo the two
bolts securing the air conditioning pipes to the
bonnet platform.
3 Remove the air cleaner metal intake duct
and intake hose.
4 Disconnect the radiator cooling fan wiring
connector, then slacken and remove the bolt

securing the earth leads to the bonnet platform.
Disconnect the wiring from the thermostatic
switch(es) which are fitted to the right-hand
side of the radiator (see illustrations).
5 Slacken the bottom hose retaining clip and
disconnect the hose from the radiator.
6 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
the top hose from both the radiator and
engine coolant elbow (see illustrations).
Position the hose clear of the radiator so that
it does not hinder removal.
7 Undo the two bolts securing the upper
mounting brackets to the bonnet platform and
remove the brackets from the radiator.
Disengage the radiator from its lower mounting
points and carefully manoeuvre it out of the
engine compartment (see illustrations).

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems  3•3

5.6a  Slacken clips and disconnect top

hose from radiator . . .

5.4b  Disconnecting wiring connector from

radiator switch

5.7a  Undo radiator mounting bolts . . .

5.6b  . . . and engine coolant elbow

5.7c  . . . and manoeuvre radiator out of

engine compartment

5.7b  . . . remove mounting brackets . . .

5.4a  Disconnect cooling fan wiring

connector then remove earth lead

retaining bolt (arrowed)

3

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Never work on the cooling
system when it is hot.
Release any pressure from
the system by loosening the

expansion tank cap, having first
covered it with a cloth to avoid any
possibility of scalding. 

Expansion tank

8 Slacken and remove the three bolts
securing the expansion tank to the body.
Unscrew the expansion tank cap and tip out
its contents into a suitable container.
9 Slacken the retaining clips then disconnect
both the hoses from the expansion tank and
remove the tank from the vehicle.

Inspection

Radiator

10 If the radiator was removed because of
clogging (causing overheating) then try
reverse flushing or, in severe cases, use a
radiator cleanser strictly in accordance with
the manufacturer’s instructions. Ensure 
that the cleanser is suitable for use in a
copper/brass radiator. Refer to Chapter 1 for
further information
11 Use a soft brush and an air line or garden
hose to clear the radiator matrix of leaves,
insects etc.

12 Major leaks or extensive damage should
be repaired by a specialist, or the radiator
should be renewed or exchanged for a
reconditioned unit.
13 Examine the mounting rubbers for signs
of damage or deterioration and renew if
necessary.

Expansion tank

14 Empty any remaining coolant from the
tank and flush it with fresh water to clean it. If
the tank is leaking it must be renewed but it is
worth first attempting a repair using a
proprietary sealant or suitable adhesive.
15 The expansion tank cap should be
cleaned and checked whenever it is removed.
Check that its sealing surfaces and threads
are clean and undamaged and that they mate
correctly with those of the expansion tank.
16 The cap’s performance can only be
checked by using a cap pressure-tester
(cooling system tester) with a suitable

adaptor. On applying pressure, the cap’s
pressure relief valve should hold until the
specified pressure is reached, at which point
the valve should open.
17 If there is any doubt about the cap’s
performance, then it must be renewed. Ensure
that the replacement is of the correct type and
rating.

Refitting

Radiator

18 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure whilst noting the following:
a)

Ensure that the radiator is seated
correctly and without strain on its
mountings.

b)

Ensure that the radiator hoses are
securely held by the retaining clips.

c)

Ensure that all wiring connectors are
correctly routed so that they are clear of
the cooling fan and are retained by any
necessary clips or ties.

d)

Refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.

Expansion tank

19 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure whilst noting the following:
a)

Ensure that all hoses are correctly routed
with no kinks or sharp bends and are
securely held by the retaining clips.

b)

Top up the expansion tank as described
in Chapter 1.

6

Thermostat - 
removal, testing and refitting

3

Removal

1 Note that access to the thermostat is very
limited. Depending on the tools available, it
may be easier to raise the front of the vehicle
and to work from underneath, ensuring that
the vehicle is securely supported on axle
stands. In most cases, access is better if the
air cleaner and carburettor (or throttle body on
SPi engines) are removed and is best if the
complete inlet manifold is removed. If the inlet
manifold is removed, the thermostat housing

cover can be unbolted to remove the
thermostat without disturbing the housing
itself (see illustration). Whichever method is
used, first drain the cooling system.
2 On carburettor models equipped with a
catalytic converter, either remove the
thermostatically-operated vacuum switch or
disconnect the vacuum pipes from the switch
so that it can be removed with the thermostat
housing.
3 Unbolt the coolant rail from the rear of the
cylinder block/crankcase, then slacken the
clips and disconnect the coolant rail hose and
heater/inlet manifold return hose from the
thermostat housing (see illustration).
4 Undo the thermostat housing/dipstick tube-
to-cylinder block/crankcase bolt and remove
the thermostat housing from the cylinder
block/crankcase. Remove the housing O-ring
which must be renewed whenever it is
disturbed (see illustrations).
5 Slacken and remove the three thermostat
housing cover bolts and lift off the housing
cover. Discard the gasket and remove the
thermostat.

Testing

6 If the thermostat remains in the open
position at room temperature, then it is faulty
and must be renewed.
7 To test it fully, suspend the (closed)
thermostat on a length of string in a container
of cold water, with a thermometer beside it.

3•4 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

6.4b  . . . and withdraw thermostat housing

(O-ring arrowed) – inlet manifold removed

for clarity

6.4a  . . . unscrew dipstick tube retaining

bolt . . .

6.3  Disconnect coolant rail and

heater/inlet manifold hoses (arrowed) . . .

6.1  Thermostat can be removed without

disturbing housing if inlet manifold is first

removed

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

Minor leaks from the
radiator can be cured using
a suitable sealant with the
radiator in situ. 

Ensure that neither touches the side of the
container (see illustration).
8 Heat the water and check the temperature
at which the thermostat begins to open.
Compare this value with that specified.
Continue to heat the water until the
thermostat is fully open. The temperature at
which this should happen is stamped in the
unit’s end (see illustration). Remove the
thermostat and measure the height of the fully
opened valve, then allow the thermostat to
cool down and check that it closes fully.
9 If the thermostat does not open and close
as described, if it sticks in either position, or if
it does not open at the specified temperature,
then it must be renewed.

Refitting

10 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following (see
illustration):
a)

Clean the thermostat housing, housing
cover and cylinder block/crankcase
mating surfaces thoroughly.

b)

Always fit a new housing cover gasket
and O-ring. Smear the O-ring with grease
to aid refitting.

c)

Tighten all bolts to their specified torque
wrench settings (where given).

d)

Ensure the coolant hose clips are
positioned so that they do not foul any
other component, then tighten them
securely.

e)

Refit any components removed for
improved access.

f)

Refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.

7

Coolant pump - 
removal and refitting

4

Removal

1 Coolant pump failure is usually indicated by
coolant leaking from the gland behind the
pump bearing, or by rough and noisy
operation, usually accompanied by excessive
pump spindle play. If the pump shows any of
these symptoms then it must be renewed as
follows.
2 Drain the cooling system.
3 Remove the timing belt.
4 Noting the location of the pillar bolt(s),
unscrew the five bolts securing the coolant
pump to the cylinder block/crankcase, then
unscrew the single bolt securing the pump to
the timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover.
5 Withdraw the coolant pump and discard its
sealing ring which should be renewed
whenever it is disturbed. Carefully clean the
cylinder block/crankcase mating surface and
the pump socket (see illustration).

Refitting

6 On refitting, install the pump using a new
sealing ring and tighten all bolts to the
specified torque wrench settings.
7 The remainder of the refitting procedure is
the reverse of removal.

8

Electric cooling fan - 
testing, removal and refitting

2

Note:

On models equipped with air

conditioning, there are two switches fitted to
the right-hand side of the radiator, the lower of
these is  the cooling fan switch.

Testing

1 The cooling fan motor is supplied with
current via the ignition switch, fuse 4 and the
cooling fan relay. The relay is energised by the
radiator-mounted thermostatic switch which
is fed via fuse number 15.

2 If the fan does not appear to work, first
check that both fuses are in good condition
and have not blown. Run the engine until
normal operating temperature is reached,
then allow it to idle. If the fan does not cut in
within a few minutes, switch off the ignition
and disconnect the two wires from the
thermostatic switch. Bridge these two wires
with a length of spare wire and switch on the
ignition. If the fan now operates, the
thermostatic switch is probably faulty and
must be tested further as described in
Section 9.
3 If the fan still fails to operate, check that full
battery voltage is available at the switch’s
light green and grey wire terminal. If not,
check the feed for a blown fuse or other fault
such as a broken wire. If the feed is good,
check the cooling fan relay, see Chapter 12. If
the relay operates correctly, check for
continuity between the fan motor black wire
terminal and a good earth point on the body. If
not, then the earth connection is faulty and
must be remade. The circuit earth connection
is one of those at earth header 1, attached to
the left-hand inner wing panel next to the
battery.
4 If the switch and wiring are in good
condition, the fault must be in the motor itself.
This can be checked by disconnecting it from
the wiring loom and connecting a 12 volt
supply directly to it. If the motor does not
work then it must be renewed.

Removal

5 Drain the cooling system, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
6 From underneath the front of the vehicle,
slacken and remove the three bolts securing
the bumper flange to the body. Remove the
seven bolts securing the front undercover
panel to the body and remove the panel.
7 Remove the air cleaner metal intake duct
and intake hose.
8 Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
the top hose from both the radiator and
engine. Position the hose clear of the radiator
so that it does not hinder removal.
9 Disconnect the radiator cooling fan wiring
connector.

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems  3•5

6.10  Thermostat housing and coolant

hoses refitted

6.8  Note temperature specification

stamped on thermostat end

6.7 Testing the thermostat

7.5  Removing the coolant pump

3

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

10 Undo the four nuts securing the cooling
fan cowling to the rear of the radiator and
manoeuvre the fan assembly out of the engine
compartment (see illustrations).
11 To dismantle the assembly, first prise off
the fan retaining circlip, then lift the fan off the
motor spindle. Undo the three nuts which
secure the motor assembly to the cowling
then release the motor wiring and connector
and separate the motor and cowling (see
illustration).

Refitting

12 Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following:
a)

If necessary, reassemble the fan motor,
cowling and fan, then tighten the motor
retaining nuts to the specified torque.
Ensure that the motor wiring is securely
retained by the cowling clips.

b)

Ensure that the radiator hose is securely
held by its retaining clips.

c)

On completion, refill the cooling system
as described in Chapter 1.

9

Cooling system electrical
switches - testing, removal
and refitting

2

Note:

On models equipped with air

conditioning, there are two switches fitted to
the right-hand side of the radiator, the lower of
these is the cooling fan switch.

Testing

Cooling fan thermostatic switch

1 Refer to Section 8 for details of a quick test
which should eliminate most faulty switches.
If the switch is to be renewed, or to be tested
thoroughly, it must be removed.
2 To carry out a thorough test of the switch,
use two spare wires to connect to it either a
multimeter (set to the resistance function) or a
battery and bulb test circuit. Suspend the
switch in a pan of water which is being
heated. Measure the temperature of the water
with a thermometer. Do not let either the
switch or the thermometer touch the pan itself
(see illustration).

3 The switch contacts should close to the ON
position (ie: continuity should exist) when the
water reaches the temperature specified.
Stop heating the water and allow it to cool
down. The switch contacts should open.
4 If the switch’s performance is significantly
different from that specified, or if it does not
work at all, then it must be renewed.

Coolant temperature gauge sender
unit

5 The coolant temperature gauge mounted in
the instrument panel is fed with a stabilised 10
volt supply from the instrument panel feed (via
the ignition switch and fuse 1), its earth being
controlled by the sender unit.
6 The sender unit is screwed into the coolant
outlet elbow mounted on the left-hand end of
the cylinder head, underneath the distributor
(see illustration). It contains a thermistor,
which is an element whose electrical
resistance decreases at a predetermined rate
as its temperature rises. Thus, when the
coolant is cold, the sender’s resistance is
high, current flow through the gauge is
reduced and the gauge needle points to the 
C (cold) end of the scale. If the unit is faulty it
must be renewed.

7 If the gauge develops a fault, check first the
other instruments. If they do not work at all,
check the instrument panel feed. If the
readings are erratic, there may be a fault in the
voltage stabiliser which will necessitate the
renewal of the gauge unit or printed circuit. If
the fault is in the temperature gauge alone,
check it as follows.
8 If the gauge needle remains at the C end of
the scale, disconnect the sender unit wire and
earth it to the cylinder head. If the needle then
deflects when the ignition is switched on, then
the sender unit is proven faulty and must be
renewed. If the needle still does not move,
remove the instrument panel and check the
continuity of the green/blue wire between the
gauge and the sender unit and the feed to 
the gauge unit. If continuity is shown and the
fault still exists, then the gauge is faulty and
the gauge unit must be renewed.
9 If the gauge needle remains at the H end of
the scale, disconnect the sender unit wire. If
the needle then returns to the C end of the
scale when the ignition is switched on, then
the sender unit is proven faulty and must be
renewed. If the needle still does not move,
check the remainder of the circuit as
described above.

Inlet manifold pre-heater temperature
switch - carburettor engines

10 The switch screwed into the underside of
the inlet manifold on carburettor engines

3•6 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

9.6  Coolant temperature gauge sender

unit

9.2  Testing cooling system electrical

switch

8.11  Cooling fan motor retaining nuts

(arrowed)

8.10b  . . . and remove fan assembly

8.10a  Undo cooling fan cowling retaining

nuts (2 arrowed) . . .

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97

controls the inlet manifold heater circuit (see
illustration).
11 The switch contacts should be closed to
the ON position (ie: continuity should exist)
only at temperatures below 50°C. Remove the
switch and test it as described in para-
graphs 2 to 4.

Thermostatically-operated vacuum
switch - carburettor engines equipped
with catalytic converters

12 This switch is screwed into the thermostat
housing.
13 To test the switch, fit two suitable lengths
of hose to the switch and suspend the switch
in a pan of water which is being heated.
Measure the temperature of the water 
with a thermometer. Do not let either the
switch or the thermometer touch the pan
itself.
14 Blow down one of the hoses attached to
the switch. The switch should be closed (ie:
passes no air) when the water temperature is
below 70°C. Above 70°C, the switch should
open and air should flow freely through the
hoses. Stop heating the water then allow the
water to cool down and check that the switch
closes at 70°C or just below.
15 If the switch performance is significantly
different from that specified, or if it does not
work at all, then it must be renewed.

Coolant temperature sensor - fuel
injected engines

16 This sensor, which is screwed into the
underside of the inlet manifold (SPi engines),
or located in the coolant pipe adjacent to the
foward top edge of the timing belt cover (MPi
engines), is a thermistor (see paragraph 6)
which is supplied with approximately 5 volts
by the engine management system ECU. The
ECU also controls the sensor’s earth path
and, by measuring the amount of current in
the sensor circuit, determines the engine’s
temperature. This information is used, in
conjunction with other inputs, to control idle
speed, injector opening time duration and
ignition timing.
17 If the sensor circuit should fail to provide
adequate information, the ECU’s back-up

facility assumes a value corresponding to
60°C. The sensor itself can be tested only by
having a Rover dealer check the complete
system using the correct diagnostic
equipment. Do not attempt to test the circuit
using any other equipment, or the ECU will be
damaged.

Removal

Cooling fan thermostatic switch

18 With the engine and radiator cold, either
drain the cooling system down to the level of
the sender unit, or unscrew the expansion
tank filler cap to release any remaining
pressure and have a suitable plug ready that
can be used to stop the escape of coolant
while the switch is removed.
19 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
20 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
switch then rotate the locking ring to release
it. Withdraw the switch and sealing ring from
the radiator (see illustration).

Coolant temperature gauge sender
unit

21 With the engine and radiator cold, either
drain the cooling system down to the level of
the switch, or unscrew the expansion tank
filler cap to release any remaining pressure
and have a suitable plug ready that can be
used to stop the escape of coolant while the
unit is removed.
22 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
23 Disconnect the unit’s wiring connector
and unscrew the unit from the coolant outlet
elbow.

Inlet manifold pre-heater temperature
switch - carburettor engines

24 Refer to Chapter 4.

Thermostatically-operated vacuum
switch - carburettor engines equipped
with catalytic converters

25 Refer to Chapter 5.

Coolant temperature sensor - fuel
injected engines

26 Refer to Chapter 4.

Refitting

Cooling fan thermostatic switch

27 On refitting, renew the sealing ring if it is
worn or compressed and carefully clean the
radiator seat before pressing in the 
sealing ring and switch (see illustration). 
Refit the locking ring and rotate it to 
tighten it securely. Reconnect the switch 
and battery, then replenish the cooling
system.

Coolant temperature gauge sender
unit

28 On refitting, apply a suitable sealant to the
unit threads and tighten it to its specified
torque wrench setting. Reconnect the unit
and battery, then replenish the cooling
system.

Inlet manifold pre-heater temperature
switch - carburettor engines

29 Refer to Chapter 4.

Thermostatically-operated vacuum
switch - carburettor engines equipped
with catalytic converters

30 Refer to Chapter 5.

Coolant temperature sensor - fuel
injected engines

31 Refer to Chapter 4.

10 Heater components -

removal and refitting

3

Removal

Heater unit

1 Drain the cooling system.
2 Working in the engine compartment,
slacken the hose clips and disconnect the
heater feed and return hoses from the matrix
outlets on the bulkhead. Disconnect the cable
inner from the heater valve and free the cable
outer from its retaining clip. Slacken and

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems  3•7

9.27  Cooling fan switch locking ring (A)

thermostatic switch (B) and sealing 

ring (C)

9.20  Remove cooling fan thermostatic

switch and withdraw sealing ring 

(arrowed)

9.10  Inlet manifold pre-heater temperature

switch (carburettor engines)

3

1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97