0•4

The Austin Metro was first introduced in October 1980 and was

initially only on sale to the UK market, export sales to the European
market following in early 1981.

The 998 cc and 1275 cc engines are fitted, with low compression

and economy versions available.

The body is of computer-based design and is assembled and

welded by computer-controlled robots. The “A-Plus” engine and
gearbox assembly is similar to that fitted to the Mini range, although it
is much improved, with durability and economy prime considerations.
Drive is through the front wheels and the engine/gearbox unit is fitted
transversely across the front of the car.

The most significant design characteristics are bolt-on front wings,

self-cleaning distributor contact points, fully closed crankcase
ventilation system, front-mounted aluminium radiator, dual circuit
braking system, and Hydragas suspension. Instrumentation is
comprehensive and includes a seat belt warning lamp, brake pad wear
warning lamp, and handbrake warning lamp.

Later additions to the range include a luxurious Vanden Plas version,

sporty MG and MG Turbo versions, and 1.0 and 1.3 Vans. The range
from 1985 includes 5-door as well as 3-door versions.

Your Metro Manual

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best from your car. It

can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be
done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide
information on routine maintenance and servicing and give a logical
course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it
is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On
simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage
and going there twice to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important,
a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs the garage must
charge to cover its labour and overheads.

The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of

the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then
the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence
so that even a novice can do the work.

Its arrangement

The manual is divided into Chapters, each covering a logical sub-

division of the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided into Sections,
numbered with single figures, e.g. 5; and the Sections are divided into
numbered paragraphs.

It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a

detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. The reference
numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section
and the paragraph within that Section. That is, illustration 3.2 means
that the illustration refers to Section 3, and paragraph 2 within that
Section.

There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual, as well as

a contents list at the front. Each Chapter is also preceded by its
individual contents list.

References to the “left” or “right” of the vehicle are in the sense of a

person in the driver’s seat, facing forwards.

Unless otherwise stated, nuts and bolts are removed by turning anti-

clockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise.

Vehicle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications

and recommendations, and these, when notified, are incorporated into
our manuals at the earliest opportunity.

Metro 1.3 HLS

Introduction

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this

manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design
changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they
do not inform us.  No liability can be accepted by the authors or
publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by errors in, or omissions
from, the information given.

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug, who supplied the

illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Thanks are also due to
Rover for the supply of technical information. Sykes-Pickavant Limited
provided some of the workshop tools. Special thanks are due to all
those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.

Metro Vanden Plas

MG Metro Turbo

Acknowledgements

0•5

Safety First!

Working on your car can be dangerous.

This page shows just some of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
tank cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.

Crushing

• When working under or near
a raised vehicle,
always
supplement the
jack with axle
stands, or use
drive-on
ramps.
Never
venture
under a car which
is only supported by a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening high-
torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should
be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive. 
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. 
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks 
(electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical
overload or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock 

• Ignition HT
voltage can be
dangerous,
especially to
people with heart
problems or a
pacemaker. Don’t
work on or near the
ignition system with
the engine running or
the ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication 

• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they often
contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never run the
engine in a
confined space
such as a garage
with the doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-
soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Special hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed to temperatures above 400

0

C. The

rubber changes into a charred or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.

The battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers or jump leads.

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands,
face or any other part of the body
to injector spray; the fuel can

penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
results.

Remember...

DO

• Do use eye protection when using power
tools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
protect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodically
that all is well when working alone on the
vehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
working on the vehicle – especially the
electrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
equipment has a safe working load rating
adequate for the job.

A few tips

DON’T

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
which may be beyond your capability – get
assistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
unverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
and cause injury.

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
where someone can trip over them. Mop
up oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
near a vehicle being worked on.

0•6

The jack provided with the vehicle is

designed primarily for emergency wheel
changing, and its use for servicing and
overhaul work on the vehicle is best avoided.
Instead, a more substantial workshop jack
(trolley jack or similar) should be used.
Whichever type is employed, it is essential
that additional safety support is provided by
means of axle stands designed for this
purpose. Never use makeshift means such as
wooden blocks or piles of house bricks, as

these can easily topple or, in the case of
bricks, disintegrate under the weight of the
vehicle. When jacking up the car with a trolley
jack, lift under the widest points of the
subframe (see illustration). To raise both
wheels at the same time use a 36 in (914 mm)
length of square steel tubing placed beneath
the subframes with a central spigot to fit the
jack.  Never  jack up the car beneath the
suspension arms. To support the car, place
axle stands under the jacking points beneath

the sills or under the widest points of the
subframe.

If removal of the wheels is not required, the

use of drive-on ramps is recommended.
Caution should be exercised to ensure that
they are correctly aligned with the wheels, and
that the vehicle is not driven too far along
them so that it promptly falls off the other
ends, or tips the ramps.

Jacking and vehicle support

Towing

Provided a fault has not developed in the

gearbox or final drive, the car may be towed
on its four wheels using either lashing eye
located on the front subframe. The lashing
eye located beneath the left-hand rear
underbody is intended for use on a
transporter only, and should not be used for
towing another vehicle (see illustration).

On automatic transmission models always

check that the engine oil level is correct
before towing the car. Do not tow the car at
speeds greater than 30 mph (50 km/h) or for
a distance of more than 30 miles (50 km). If
these conditions cannot be met, or if
transmission damage is suspected, the car
must be towed with the front wheels clear of
the ground.

Jacking and support points

1  Jacking brackets

2  Front jacking points (servicing)

3  Rear jacking points (servicing)

Roadside repairs

Rear lashing eye - not to be used for towing

0•7

Levering off the hub cover

Spare wheel compartment

Body jacking point

Jacking the car

To change a roadwheel, remove the spare

wheel and tool kit from the well in the rear
compartment  (see illustration). Apply the
handbrake and chock the wheel diagonally
opposite the one to be changed. Make sure
that the car is located on firm level ground.
Lever off the hub cover (see illustration) and
slightly loosen the wheel nuts with the

spanner provided. Raise the jack and insert
the peg in the nearest jacking point to the
wheel being removed (see illustration). Using
the handle provided, raise the jack until the
wheel is free of the ground (see illustration).
Unscrew the wheel nuts and remove the
wheel, then remove the wheel finisher if fitted.

Fit the finisher to the spare wheel and fit the

wheel on the studs. Fit and tighten the wheel
nuts with their tapered ends towards the
wheel. Lower the jack, then finally tighten the
wheel nuts and refit the hub cover. Remove
the chock, and refit the wheel and tool kit to
the rear compartment.

Wheel changing

Roadside repairs

0•8

Roadside repairs

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or

obvious wetness under the bonnet or 
underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs
investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to
decide where the leak is coming from,
especially if the engine bay is very dirty
already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
rearwards by the passage of air under the car,
giving a false impression of where the
problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils
and fluids are poisonous. Wash
them off skin, and change out of
contaminated clothing, without
delay.

Identifying leaks

The smell of a fluid leaking
from the car may provide a
clue to what’s leaking. Some
fluids are distinctively

coloured. It may help to clean the car
carefully and to park it over some clean
paper overnight as an aid to locating the
source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only
occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil

Gearbox oil

Brake fluid

Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...

...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline
deposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
inboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost
certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
connectors on the steering rack.

0•9

Roadside repairs

When jump-starting a car using a
booster battery, observe the following
precautions:

4

Before connecting the booster
battery, make sure that the ignition is
switched off.

4

Ensure that all electrical equipment
(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is
switched off.

4

Make sure that the booster battery is
the same voltage as the discharged
one in the vehicle.

4

If the battery is being jump-started
from the battery in another vehicle,
the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH
each other.

4

Make sure that the transmission is in
neutral (or PARK, in the case of
automatic transmission).

Jump starting will get you out
of trouble, but you must correct
whatever made the battery go
flat in the first place. There are 

three possibilities:

1

The battery has been drained by
repeated attempts to start, or by

leaving the lights on.

2

The charging system is not working
properly (alternator drivebelt slack

or broken, alternator wiring fault or
alternator itself faulty).

3

The battery itself is at fault
(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead to
the positive (+) terminal of the flat
battery

Connect the other end of the red lead to
the positive (+) terminal of the booster
battery.

Connect one end of the black jump lead
to the negative (-) terminal of the
booster battery

Connect the other end of the black
jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the
engine block, well away from the
battery, on the vehicle to be started.

1

2

3

4

Make sure that the jump leads will not
come into contact with the fan, drive-
belts or other moving parts of the
engine.

5

Start the engine using the booster
battery, then with the engine running at
idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in
the reverse order of connection.

6

Jump starting

0•10

There are some very simple checks which
need only take a few minutes to carry out, but
which could save you a lot of inconvenience
and expense.

These "Weekly checks" require no great skill
or special tools, and the small amount of time
they take to perform could prove to be very
well spent, for example;

M Keeping an eye on tyre condition and
pressures, will not only help to stop them
wearing out prematurely, but could also save
your life.

M Many breakdowns are caused by electrical
problems. Battery-related faults are
particularly common, and a quick check on a
regular basis will often prevent the majority of
these.

M If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the
first time you might know about it is when your
brakes don't work properly. Checking the level
regularly will give advance warning of this kind
of problem.

M If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost
of repairing any engine damage will be far
greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Underbonnet check points

A

Oil level dipstick

B

Engine oil filler cap

C

Coolant expansion tank cap

D

Brake fluid reservoir

E

Windscreen washer reservoir

F

Battery

Introduction

Weekly checks

0•11

Weekly checks

Engine oil level

Before you start

4 Make sure that your car is on level ground.

4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,
or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
switched off.

The correct oil

Modern engines place great demands on their
oil. It is very important that the correct oil for
your car is used (See “Lubricants and Fluids”).

Car Care

l If you have to add oil frequently, you should
check whether you have any oil leaks. Place
some clean paper under the car overnight,
and check for stains in the morning. If there
are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil
(see “Fault Finding”).

l Always maintain the level between the
upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3).
If the level is too low severe engine damage
may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the
engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

Using a clean rag or paper towel remove
all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean

dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then
withdraw it again.

Note the oil level on the end of the
dipstick, which should be between the

upper (“MAX”) mark and lower (“MIN”) mark.
Approximately 0.5 litre of oil will raise the level
from the lower mark to the upper mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap.
Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a

funnel may help to reduce spillage . Add the
oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick
frequently. Avoid overfilling (see “Car Care”).

The engine oil level is checked with a
dipstick that extends through the dipstick

tube on the side of the cylinder block and into
the sump at the bottom of the engine.

1

2

3

4

If the oil is checked
immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the upper engine

components, resulting in an inaccurate
reading on the dipstick!

Coolant level

Add a mixture of water and antifreeze
through the expansion tank filler neck

until the coolant reaches the “MAX” level
mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far
as it will go until it is secure.

If topping-up is necessary, wait until the
engine is cold. Slowly turn the expansion

tank cap anti-clockwise to relieve the system
pressure. Once any pressure is released, turn
the cap anti-clockwise unti it can be lifted off.

The coolant level varies with the
temperature of the engine. When the

engine is cold, the coolant level should be as
shown. When the engine is hot, the level may
rise slightly above the “MAX” mark.

1

2

3

Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank
pressure cap when the engine
is hot, as there is a very great
risk of scalding. Do not leave
open containers of coolant
about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

l With a sealed-type cooling system, adding
coolant should not be necessary on a regular
basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is
likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all
hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or
wetness, and rectify as necessary.

l It is important that antifreeze is used in the
cooling system all year round, not just during
the winter months. Don’t top-up with water
alone, as the antifreeze will become too
diluted.

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and
damage painted surfaces, so
use extreme caution when
handling and pouring it.
l Do not use fluid that has been
standing open for some time, as it
absorbs moisture from the air
which can cause a dangerous loss
of braking effectiveness.

Safety first

l If the reservoir requires repeated topping-
up this is an indication of a fluid leak
somewhere in the system, which should be
investigated immediately.

l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be
driven until the braking system has been
checked. Never take any risks where brakes
are concerned.

Brake fluid level

Carefully add fluid avoiding spilling it on
surrounding paintwork. Use only the

specified hydraulic fluid; mixing different types
of fluid can cause damage to the system. After
filling to the correct level, refit the cap
securely, to prevent leaks and the entry of
foreign matter. Wipe off any spilt fluid.

When adding fluid, it’s a good idea to
inspect the reservoir. The system should

be drained and refilled if dirt is seen in the fluid
(see Chapter 9 for details).

The brake reservoir is mounted on the
right-hand side next to the air filter. The

“MAX” and “MIN” marks are indicated on the
side of the reservoir. The fluid level must be
kept between the marks.

1

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the
area around the filler cap with a clean rag

before removing the cap.

2

3

4

Screen washer fluid level

On all MG Turbo models, a combined
reservoir is mounted in the left-hand rear

of the luggage compartment 

Later models with front and rear washers
have a combined reservoir in the left-

hand front of the engine compartment. Models
with windscreen washers only, have a single
reservoir.

Early models have separate reservoirs for
the windscreen and tailgate, being

located on the left-hand front of the engine
compartment and the left-hand rear of the
luggage compartment 

Screenwash additives not only keep the
winscreen clean during foul weather, they also
prevent the washer system freezing in cold

weather - which is when you are likely to need
it most. Don’t top up using plain water as the
screenwash will become too diluted, and will

freeze during cold weather. On no account use
engine antifreeze in the washer system - this
could discolour or damage paintwork.

1

2

3

• Make sure that your car is
on level ground.
• The fluid level in the
master cylinder reservoir will

drop slightly as the brake pads wear
down, but the fluid level must never be
allowed to drop below the ‘MIN’ mark.

0•12

Weekly checks

0•13

Weekly checks

Warning: Brake and clutch
hydraulic fluid can harm your
eyes and damage painted
surfaces, so use extreme
caution when handling and
pouring it.
l Do not use fluid that has been
standing open for some time, as it
absorbs moisture from the air
which can cause a dangerous loss
of braking effectiveness.

Before you start:

4 Park the vehicle on level ground.
4 The engine should be turned off.

Safety First: 

l The need for frequent topping-up indicates
a leak, which should be investigated
immediately.

The clutch master cylinder (if fitted) is
located next to the brake master cylinder.

Unscrew the filler cap and top-up the clutch
master cylinder to the bottom of the filler neck
with hydraulic fluid.

1

For improved access,
remove the air cleaner as
described in Chapter 4

Clutch fluid level (if applicable)

Electrical system

Later (1985-on) models have a fusebox
located below the right-hand side of the

facia. Remove the cover by twisting the
retainers using a coin.
To replace a blown fuse, simply prise it out. Fit
a new fuse of the same rating, available from
car accessory shops.
It is important that you find the reason that the
fuse blew - a checking procedure is given in
Chapter 12.

If more than one indicator light or
headlight has failed it is likely that either a

fuse has blown or that there is a fault in the
circuit (refer to “Electrical fault-finding” in
Chapter 12).
On early models, the fuses are located behind
the switch panel on the right-hand side of the
facia. Access is gained by removing the two
screws from the switch panel, and pivoting the
panel downwards.

If a single indicator light, brake light or
headlight has failed it is likely that a bulb

has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer
to Chapter 12 for details.
If both brake lights have failed, it is possible
that the brake light switch above the brake
pedal needs adjusting. This simple operation
is described in Chapter 9.

1

If you need to check  your
brake lights and indicators
unaided, back up to a wall
or garage door and operate

the lights. The reflected light should
show if they are working properly.

4 Check all external lights and the horn. Refer
to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for
details if any of the circuits are found to be
inoperative.

4 Visually check all wiring connectors,
harnesses and retaining clips for security, and
for signs of chafing or damage.

2

3

0•14

To remove a wiper blade, pull the arm
fully away from the glass until it locks.

Swivel the blade through 90°, press the
locking tab(s) with your fingers, and slide the
blade out of the arm's hooked end. On
refitting, ensure that the blade locks securely
into the arm.

Check the condition of the wiper blades;
if they are cracked or show any signs of

deterioration, or if the glass swept area is
smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity of
vision, wiper blades should be renewed
annually, as a matter of course.

2

1

Weekly checks

Battery

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the
vehicle battery, read the precautions given in
“Safety first” at the start of this manual.
4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good
condition, and that the clamp is tight.
Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the
battery itself can be removed with a solution
of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all
cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts
damaged by corrosion should be covered with
a zinc-based primer, then painted.The exterior
of the battery should be inspected periodically
for damage such as a cracked case or cover. 
4 Periodically (approximately every three
months), check the charge condition of the
battery as described in Chapter 5.
4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump
start your vehicle, see “Roadside Repairs”.
4 If the battery is of maintenance-free type, it
is not possible to check the electrolyte level.

The battery is located on the left-hand
side of the engine compartment. The

electrolyte level may be checked and if
necessary topped up. If the battery is of
standard or low-maintenance type, check that
the level of electrolyte is approximately 15 mm
above the tops of the cell plates. If necessary
top-up the level, using only distilled or
demineralised water.

Check the tightness of battery clamps (A)
to ensure good electrical connections.

You should not be able to move them. Also
check each cable (B) for cracks and frayed
conductors.

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is
evident, remove the cables from the

battery terminals, clean them with a small wire
brush, then refit them. Accessory stores sell a
useful tool for cleaning the battery post ...

1

2

3

... as well as the battery cable clamps

4

Battery corrosion can be kept to a
minimum by applying a layer of
petroleum jelly to the clamps and
terminals after they are reconnected.

Wiper blades

0•15

Weekly checks

It is very important that tyres are in good
condition, and at the correct pressure - having
a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous.
Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh
braking and acceleration, or fast cornering,
will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a
general rule, the front tyres wear out faster
than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from
front to rear (“rotating” the tyres) may result in
more even wear. However, if this is completely
effective, you may have the expense of
replacing all four tyres at once!
Remove any nails or stones embedded in the
tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause
deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so
that its point of penetration is marked. Then
immediately change the wheel, and have the
tyre repaired by a tyre dealer.
Regularly check the tyres for damage in the
form of cuts or bulges, especially in the
sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and
clean any dirt or mud from the inside and
outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for
signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage.
Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by
“kerbing” whilst parking; steel wheels may
also become dented or buckled. A new wheel
is very often the only way to overcome severe
damage.

New tyres should be balanced when they are
fitted, but it may become necessary to re-
balance them as they wear, or if the balance
weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off.
Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as
will the steering and suspension components.
Wheel imbalance is normally signified by
vibration, particularly at a certain speed
(typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is
felt only through the steering, then it is likely
that just the front wheels need balancing. If,
however, the vibration is felt through the whole
car, the rear wheels could be out of balance.
Wheel balancing should be carried out by a
tyre dealer or garage.

Tyre Pressure Check

Check the tyre pressures regularly with
the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre

pressures immediately after the vehicle has
been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.
Tyre pressures are shown on the next page.

Tread Depth - manual check

Alternatively tread wear can be monitored
with a simple, inexpensive device known

as a tread depth indicator gauge.

Tread Depth - visual check

The original tyres have tread wear safety
bands (B), which will appear when the

tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm.
The band positions are indicated by a
triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

1

2

3

Tyre condition and pressure

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)
Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and
the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause a loss of grip and
excessive wear, not to mention the danger of
sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.
Check and adjust pressures
Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)
Repair or renew suspension parts
Hard cornering
Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation
Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the
centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with
reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of
shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.
Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s
tyres to the higher pressures specified for
maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t
forget to reduce the pressures to normal
afterwards.

Uneven  Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and
garages can check and adjust the wheel
alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.
Incorrect camber or castor
Repair or renew suspension parts
Malfunctioning suspension
Repair or renew suspension parts
Unbalanced wheel
Balance tyres
Incorrect toe setting
Adjust front wheel alignment
Note: The feathered edge of the tread which
typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

4

Pressures (cold) - psi (bar) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Front

Rear

135 SR 12

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

32 (2.2)

28 (2.0)

165/70R 12

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

32 (2.2)

26 (1.8)

165/60 HR 13

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

28 (2.0)

28 (2.0)

150/65 R315

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

30 (2.1)

28 (2.0)

155/70 SR 12

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

28 (2.0)

32 (2.2)

165/65 HR 13

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

28 (2.0)

28 (2.0)

160/65 R315

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

28 (2.0)

26 (1.8)

185/55 13

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

29 (2.0)

29 (2.0)

Note: Pressures apply only to original-equipment tyres, and may vary if any other make or type is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer or
supplier for correct pressures if necessary.

Tyre pressures

0•16

Lubricants, fluids, capacities and tyre pressures

Engine/manual gearbox oil (without filter)

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8.5 pints (4.8 litres)

Oil filter (manual gearbox)

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0.6 pint (0.3 litres)

Engine/automatic transmission oil (without filter)

 . . . . . . . .

8.8 pints (5.0 litres)

Oil filter (automatic transmission)

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.0 pint (0.6 litre)

Cooling system (including heater)

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8.5 pints (4.8 litres)

Fuel tank:

(early models)

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6.6 Imp gals (30 litres)

1986-on models

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7.8 Imp gals (35 litres)

Engine/gearbox (transmission)

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 15W/50 (pre August 1983)

or 10W/40 (August 1983-on)

Suspension grease points

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Multi-purpose lithium based grease

Distributor

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 15W/50 or 10W/40

Carburettor piston damper

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 15W/50 or 10W/40

Brake and clutch fluid reservoirs

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Hydraulic fluid to FMVSS 166 DOT 3 or SAE J1703C

Capacities (approx.)

Lubricants and fluids