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Honda Ridgeline. Manual - part 521

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CD changer

Wire color

YES

CD changer

Audio unit

Wire color

YES

23-50

Audio System

Symptom Troubleshooting (cont’d)

CD CHANGER CONNECTOR A(18P)

AUDIO UNIT CONNECTOR B (14P)

CD CHANGER CONNECTOR A(18P)

5. Disconnect CD changer connector A (18P) and

audio unit connector B (14P).

6. Check for continuity between CD changer

connector A (18P) and body ground according to
the table. Then check for continuity between the
same terminals listed in the table and CD changer
connector A (18P) No. 11 and No. 14 terminals (the
harness shield).

GRN

WHT

A10

BLK

RED

Replace the appropriate shielded harness.

Go to step 7.

7. Disconnect audio unit connector B (14P).

8. Check for continuity between CD changer

connector A (18P) and audio unit connector B (14P)
according to the table.

GRN

B14

WHT

A10

BLK

B13

RED

Substitute a known-good CD changer, then

reconnect all connectors and recheck. If the
symptom/indication goes away, replace the
original CD changer (see page 23-58). If the
symptom/indication is still present, replace the
audio unit (see page 23-57).

Replace the appropriate shielded harness.

Wire side of female terminals

Is ther e continuity?

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Special Tools Required

Left/Right Channel ID

Phase Test

23-51

Sound Quality Diagnosis

Diagnostics CD 07AAZ-SDBA100

Use the following tests to check sound quality.

NOTE: Before beginning the following tests, write down
the customer’s bass, treble, fader and balance settings,
then set them to their center positions for the testing.

Do this test to confirm proper channel routing.

1. Insert audio diagnostic CD (T/N 07AAZ-SDBA100)

into the CD player.

2. Play track No. 1 (left, both, right channel ID) at a

normal, or slightly higher than normal, volume
level.

3. The voice should be audible only from the channel

or channels when indicated.

• If the channel ID is correct for each side, go to

phase test.

• If the channel ID is not correct, check for

– Shorted speaker wire
– Faulty amplifier
– Faulty audio unit

Diagnostics CD 07AAZ-SDBA100

Do this test to confirm proper speaker phasing.

1. Insert audio diagnostic CD (T/N 07AAZ-SDBA100)

into the CD player.

2. Play track No. 2 (phase) at a normal, or slightly

higher than normal, volume level.

3. The voice should sound centered and focused

when it is in-phase.

4. The voice should sound diffused, and have ‘‘less

bass’’ when it is out of phase.

• If the voice changes from in-phase to out of

phase as indicated by the prompt, the phasing is
correct. Go to electrical noise test (see page
23-52).

• If the voice always sounds out of phase, phasing

is not correct. Check for
– Crossed speaker wires
– Faulty amplifier
– Faulty audio unit

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Special Tools Required

Electrical Noise Test

23-52

Audio System

Sound Quality Diagnosis (cont’d)

Diagnostics CD 07AAZ-SDBA100

Do this test to check for electrical noise being induced
into the audio system.

NOTE: Electrical noise may be caused by outside
sources that cannot be handled by the audio system.
Make sure you remove any cell phones and/or turn off
any aftermarket device before beginning this test.

1. Insert audio diagnostic CD (T/N 07AAZ-SDBA100)

into the CD player.

2. Play track No. 4 (digital zero) at a normal, or slightly

higher than normal, volume level.

3. Operate any electrical device that may create

electrical noise in the audio system, including
starting the engine.

4. Play track No. 5 (near digital zero) at a normal, or

slightly higher than normal, volume level.

5. Operate any electrical device that may create

electrical noise in the audio system, including
starting the engine.

6. Play track No. 6 (SNR) at a normal, or slightly

higher than normal, volume level.

7. Operate any electrical device that may create

electrical noise in the audio system, including
starting the engine.

• If no abnormal noise is heard, go to individual

speaker test.

• If the noise is present only during the SNR track,

replace the audio unit.

• If the noise is heard during the digital zero or

near digital zero track, check for:
– Poor ground for the audio unit, amplifier,

engine or battery cable

– Pinched or shorted speaker or amplifier wire
– Faulty amplifier
– Faulty audio unit
– Other faulty components causing excessive

electrical noise (ignition coils, alternator, door
lock actuators, etc.). Disconnect any suspect
components, and then replay the tracks that
were originally noisy. If the noise is gone,
check the component’s circuit and the
component.

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Special Tools Required

Individual Speaker Test

Sound Balance Test

23-53

Diagnostics CD 07AAZ-SDBA100

Do this test to identify a faulty speaker.

1. Insert audio diagnostic CD (T/N 07AAZ-SDBA100)

into the CD player.

2. Play track No. 30 (steady 300 Hz tone) at a normal,

or slightly higher than normal, volume level.

3. Listen to each speaker for poor sound compared to

the other speakers. Use the audio unit’s fader and
balance settings to help isolate the channel with the
problem.

• If the sound quality produced by a specific

speaker is poor, substitute it with a known-good
speaker. If the poor sound quality continues, go
to the sound balance test (see page 23-53).

• If the sound quality is OK, go to the sound

balance test (see page 23-53).

Diagnostics CD 07AAZ-SDBA100

Perform this test to identify a faulty channel or speaker.

1. Insert audio diagnostic CD (T/N 07AAZ-SDBA100)

into the CD player.

2. Confirm the bass and treble are set to the center

positions.

3. Play track No. 3 (pink noise) at a normal, or slightly

higher then normal, volume level.

4. A ‘‘static’’ type sound should be heard through all

speakers.

5. Insert audio diagnostic CD (T/N 07AAZ-SDBA100)

into the CD player of a known-good vehicle.

6. Set the bass and treble to the center position.

7. Play track No. 3 (pink noise) all the same level as

was played in step 3.

8. Compare the sounds made by the two vehicles.

• If the sounds made by the two vehicles are very

similar, go to the Frequency Sweep Test
(see page 23-54).

• If the sound does not have as much bass, check

the subwoofer and circuit.

• If the sound does not have enough ‘‘hiss,’’ check

the tweeters and their circuits.

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